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THE SEARCH 



FOR THE 



NORTH POLE; 

OR.- 

Life in the Great White World. 



A Complete and Connected Story of Arctic Explorations, Supetbly 

Illustrated from Real Scenes. Replete with Anecdote, Incident, 

Thrilling Adventure, and Intensely Interesting 

Information. The Book with a Purpose 

Consecrated to Further Polar 

Investigation. 



EVELYN BRIGGS BALDWIN, A. M. 

Member of the Chicago Academy of Sciences, Member of the National Geographic Society 

Washington, D. C, Non-Resident Member of the Geographical Club of Philadelphia, 

formerly Assistant Observer United States Weather Bureau, and 

Meteorologist to the Peary North Greenland Expedition, 1893-4. 



SOLD ONLY BY SUBSCRIPTION. 



CHICAGO, ILLINOIS. U. S. A 






Copyright, i8q6 

BY 

EVELYN B. BALDWIN. 



-«3C^VaO^_.^4\ 



SPECIAL NOTICE, — As this book is published for the advancement of Polar Research and 
as a direct means of increasing the funds for the better equipment of our expedition, all com- 
munications relative thereto should be addressed as follows: (Business address) 

E. B. BALDWIN, Slayton Lyceum Bureau, Central Music Hall, Chicago, III. 
(Or, Naperville, 111.) 



DEDICATED 



TO 

My grandfather, Nathaniel Crampton, Esq., for his generous encour- 
agement at all times; 

TO 

My father, who, with the patriotism of a soldier and the appreciation 
of a scholar, once and again has said "Go!" 

TO 

My mother, who finds "in all this discipline a verification of her faith 
in the leadings of a Divine Providence"- 

TO 

My comrades whose fellowship in North Greenland, amidst scenes of 
common interest, is ever an inspiration for further effort; 

TO 

The members and friends of the auxiliary expeditions by whom we 
were restored opportunely and in health to our homes as an unbroken 
band; and, finally, 

TO 

All lovers of the arts and sciences, among whom are especially the 
subscribers to this volume as well as to those who may otherwise pro- 
mote the cause in the advancement of which it has been gladly written. 



MAPS AND PRINCIPAL ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Nos. Pages. 
1. — Frontispiece. 
2-3.— Fatal Accident on the Matterhorn— Group of Arctic Ex- 
plorers Between 16 and 17 

4-5.— Groups Parry's First and Second Expeditions Between 32 and 33 

6.— Barents' House (Exterior and Interior) 43 

7-10. — Groups Franklin's First Expedition Between 48 and 49, 64 and 65 

11-14. — Groups Parry's Second Expedition Between 80 and 81, 96 and 97 

15. — Group Early Explorers • 97 

16.— Map of the North Polar Regions 104-105 

17-20.- Groups Franklin's Second Expedition.. Between 112 and 113, 128 and 129 
21-22. — The "Fury;" Eskimo Weapons; Glacier; Seal. .Between 144 and 145 
23-26. — Upernavik: Midnight Scene; Church and Parsonage; the Three 

Graces; Native Huts. — Sir Leopold McClintock 

Between 160 and 161, 176 and 177 

27-28. — West Greenland Group; Melville Bay, Eskimos, etc 

Between 192 and 193 

29-30. — Cumberland Eskimos. — Sea Game. — South Greenland Natives 

Between 208 and 209 

31-32. — Reindeer. — Siberian Life: — Reindeer; Swans; Geese 

Between 224 and 225 

33-34.— Officers Nares' Expedition; West Greenland Views 

Between 240 and 241 

35-36.— Godthaab; Nordenskiold, King Oscar, Lockwood. Between 256 and 257 

37. — Map: From Baffin's Bay to Lincoln Sea 268 

38-39— Baffin's Bay Views:— Natives, Dogs, Glaciers.. . .Between 272 and 273 

- 40.— Map Of King William's Land 285 

41-42.— General Greely; Cape Dudley Digges; Natives. . .Between 288 and 289 
43-44.— Musk-Calves, Floe-Ice; Greely Relief Vessels — Between 304 and 305 
45-46. — Cairn, Kyakers, etc.; Godhaven, Ships, Natives.. Between 320 and 321 

47-48. — West Greenland Views; Lady Franklin Bay Expedition 

Between 336 and 337 

49-50. — Return of the Greely Survivors; Lieut. Peary, Sea Ice 

Between 352 and 353 

51-52. — Companions in Furs Between 368 and 369 

53-54.— The "Falcon," Capt. Bartlett; Etah Eskimos, Cape York 

..Between 384 and 385 

55-56.— The "Falcon:"— Crew; at Disco Between 400 and 401 

57-58. — Peary Relief Expedition; Dr. Chamberlin Between 416 and 417 

59-60. — Climbing a Glacier; Dr. Chamberlin, Mr. Bridgman, and the 

Author on Greenland Glaciers Between 432 and 433 

61-62. — Ice-berg, Aurora Borealis; the "Kite" Betv/een 448 and 449 

63-64. — Lieut. Brainard, Paleocrystic Ice; Jackson-Harmsworth Expe- 
dition Between 464 and 465 

65-66. — Nansen and the "Fram;" Masonic Apron, Etc. .Between 480 and 481 

67-68. — Botanical Specimens; Antarctic Explorers Between 496 and 497 

69. — Names and Ages (1893) of Nansen's Associates 497 

70. — Jackson and Harmsworth, the "Windward" 502 

71.— Andree's Balloon 505 

72. — "Farewell," the "Fair Augusta" 511 

73.— Hunting Musk-Cattle 518 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I.— To Our Readers and Friends.— Defense of Polar Explora- 
tions. — Loss of Life in Arctic Exploration. — Means of Equipping Expedi- 
tions. — Mission of This Book. — ^Acknowledgments 11-31 

CHAPTER II.— Early Norse, English, and Dutch Voyages: Ericson.— 
Northeast and Northwest Passages. — Frobisher. — Drake. — Barents. — 
Barents' Death. — Slaughter of Arctic Game. — Conflicts with Eskimos. — 
Sad Fate of Hudson.— Search for Hudson.— Discovery of Baffin's Bay. — 
Noble Fellows: Captain James and Companions. — Origin of the Hud- 
son's Bay Company 32-66 

CHAPTER III.— Russian Arctic Voyages: — Private Adventurers. — Peter the 
Great's Patronage. — Vitus Bering. — The Greatest Geographical Enterprise 
Ever Undertaken ■ 67-85 

CHAPTER IV.— Arctic Voyages of Captain Cook, the Scoresbys, Sir John 
Ross, and Others: — Benjamin Franklin's Patronage. — Discovery of the 
Hawaiian Islands. — Discovery of the Mackenzie River. — The Gospel 
Among the Eskimos.— The Northernmost Tribe of People in the World. — 
Crimson-Colored Snow 86-101 

CHAPTER V. — Parry's First Voyage:— Wonderful Discoveries; A Fascinating 
Narrative 102-115 

CHAPTER VI.— Franklin's First Expedition:— Franklin's Soldier Life.— Ex- 
plores British America. — Sufferings, and Death of Companions. .116-129 

CHAPTER VII. — Russian Expeditions: — Wrangell's Great Journeys in Siberia 
and on the Arctic Ocean. — Life Among the Chookchees, Yakuts, Tun- 
guses, and Yakagires. — Visits the Bear Islands. — Observance of Easter 
Sunday.— Exploration of the Tundras 130-157 

CHAPTER VIII.— Parry's Second Voyage-— Capture of a Huge Bear.— Sports 
With the Eskimos. — Hunting Arctic Game.— Explores Region about 
the Gulf of Boothia 158-167 

CHAPTER IX.— Voyages of Sabine, and Lyon:— To Spitzbergen, and the East 
Coast of Greenland; to Hudson's Bay. — Lyon's Miraculous Escape. . 
168-171 

CHAPTER X.— Parry's Third Voyage:— To Prince Regent's Inlet.— Abandon- 
ment of the "Fury" 172-176 

CHAPTER XI.— Franklin's Second Expedition, and the Voyage of the 

"Blossom": — Descent of the Mackenzie. — Auroral Displays. — Hostile 

Eskim-os 177-182 



6 CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XII.— Parry's Fourth Voyage: Attainment of a High Latitude 
North of Spitzbergen 183-189 

CHAPTER XIII. — Second Voyage of Sir John Ross: — Discovery of the North 
Magnetic Pole. — Booth's Generous Patronage. — A Thrilling Deliverance 
190-197 

CHAPTER XIV.— Expeditions of Back, and of Dease and Simpson:— To the 
North Coast of America. — Assassination of Simpson 198-204 

CHAPTER XV.— Middendorf in the Taimur Peninsula:— Summer "Weather 
and Animal Life. — A Grateful Savage 205-208 

CHAPTER XVI.— Fateful Voyage of Franklin, and Expedition of Rae:— 
Last Message of Franklin. — Rae on Committee Bay 209-212 

CHAPTER XVII.— Richardson's Search for Franklin:— He Visits the United 
States. — Travels via Great Lakes and the Mackenzie River to the Arctic 
Coast. — Finds Newspapers Within the Arctic World 213-218 

CHAPTER XVIII.— Search Expedition of James C. Ross:— To Lancaster 
Sound and North Somerset 219-221 

CHAPTER XIX.— Voyage of the "North Star" 222 

CHAPTER XX.— Voyage of the "Plover" and the "Herald" 22a 

CHAPTER XXL— The Search Continued:— The Admiralty Squadron and 
Private Expeditions. — The Americans Assist. — Discouraging Results. 
224-226: 

CHAPTER XXII. — Kennedy's Search Voyage: — Exploration of Prince of 
Wales Land and North Somerset 227-230 

CHAPTER XXIIL— Voyage of McClure and Collinson.— Discovery of a North- 
west Passage: To Bering's Strait. — A Strange Deception. — McClure's 
Discovery of Bank's, or Baring's Land, and of Prince Albert's Land. — 
McClure's Sympathy for the Eskimos. — Researches. — Peril and Deliver- 
ance. — McClure's Gratitude. — Game. — Collinson's Successful Voyage 
231-241 

CHAPTER XXIV.— Belcher's Search Squadron: Rescue of McClure.— Aban- 
donment of the Vessels 242-248 

CHAPTER XXV. — The American Search Expedition: — Grinnell's Generosity. — 
Congressional Debate. — Red Snow. — Traces of Franklin. — A Perilous 
Besetment 249-260 

CHAPTER XXVL— Rae's Search and Discovery:— Death of Franklin's Party- 
by Starvation 261-262 

CHAPTER XXVII.— Inglefield's Voyage:— A Signal Success 263-264 

CHAPTER XXVIII. — Kane's Expedition:— Grinnell's Generosity Again. — Ex- 
plorations in Kane Basin. — Critical Situation and Attempt to Escape. — 
Final Release 26-5-282 

CHAPTER XXIX.— McClintock's Successful Voyage:— Important Informa- 
tion Concerning the Fate of Franklin's Party. — The Search in King^ 
William's Land 283-287 

CHAPTER XXX.— Expedition of Hayes:— Public Subscriptions.— In Kennedy 
Channel 288-29S 



CONTENTS. 7 

CHAPTER XXXI.— Hall's First Expedition:— A Struggle for Recognition. — 

Generous Patrons. — Life Among the Cumberland Island Eskimos. 299-307 

CHAPTER XXXII.— Hall's Second Expedition:— His Heart in the Cause. — 

Discoveries in King William's Land 308-312. 

CHAPTER XXXIII.— German Expeditions:— Public Donations.— The King's 
Sympathy. — A Perilous Drift on the Sea Ice. — Explorations in East 
Greenland.— Scientific Study of Polar Life 313-319 

CHAPTER XXXIV.— Hall's Last Voyage:— His Death.— Miraculous Preserva- 
tion of Life. — Among the Famous Etah Eskimos. — Lost and Afloat on 
the Sea Ice.— The End by Rescue 323-340 

CHAPTER XXXV.— The Discovery of Franz- Josef Land:— Generous Patron- 
age. — Energetic Leaders. — Loyal Men. — Sunday Observance. — ^A Joyful 
Surprise. — Escape by Sledge and Boat 341-353 

CHAPTER XXXVL— The English Expedition of 1875-6:— Patriotic Interest.— 
Explorations in Grinnell Land. — Markhem's Sledge Journey. 354-362 

CHAPTER XXXVII.— Schwatka's Expedition to King William's Land:— Pri- 
vate Subscriptions. — A Long Sledge Journey. — Abundance of Animal 
Life.— Intense Cold 363-367 

CHAPTER XXXVIII.— Nordenskiold's Wonderful Voyage:— Explorations 
Along the Siberian Coast. — Through the Northeast Passage 368-373 

CHAPTER XXXIX.— De Long's Gallant Struggle:— Mr. Bennett's Liberality.— 
Through Bering's Strait. — Life in the "Jeannette." — Islands Discov- 
ered. — The "Jeannette" Crushed.— On the Retreat. — Separation in a 
Gale. — Death's Horrid March. — Deliverance of the Survivors 374-404 

CHAPTER XL. — Heroic Americans: — The Lady Franklin Bay Expedition. — 
Life at Fort Conger. — Abundance of Game. — Scientific Research. — 
Attainment of the "Farthest North." — Failures of the Relief Parties. — 
Retreat to Cape Sabine. — Death by Starvation. — Rescue of the Sur- 
vivors 405-427 

CHAPTER XLI.— Nansen's First Triumph as an Explorer:— The First Jour- 
ney Across Greenland. — Life and Customs of the Eskimos 428-441 

CHAPTER XLIL— With Lieutenant Peary.— The Author's Plans for Polar 
Research. — Lieutenant Brainard's Indorsement. — Comrade Astrup's Trip 
to Melville Bay 442-495 

CHAPTER XLIII. — Nansen's Last Famous Voyage: — His Equipment. — Names 
and Ages of His Associates 496-500 

CHAPTER XLIV.— The English in Franz- Josef Land:— The Jackson-Harms- 
worth Expedition 501-502 

CHAPTER XLV.— To the North Pole by Balloon:— Mr. Andree's Project. 

503-506; 

CHAPTER XLVI. — Lovers of the Arts and Sciences: — Free and Accepted Ma- 
sonry in Arctic Exploration. — Emblems Carried Northward. — Interest 
Taken in Scientific Exploration by Kane Lodge, New York. — Presenta- 
tion of an Historical Painting. — Fntertaining and Instructive Ad- 
dresses. — Our Working Principle 507-520 



ESKIMO MELODY. 

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\ *ja - a ■^a • a ^a • a ^a - a '^a • a ^a - a '^a - a. Ha 

/ -^a - a >3a - a "^a - a, ha -ja - a ^a - a ^a - a, ha 

I ^a - a -ja - a -ja. Ha ^a - a -ja - a 'ja - a, ha 

^ N)a - a N)a - a -)a - a, ha ^a^- a ^ja - a vja. '^a - a 

I -ja - a *5a - a ^a - a ^a • a -^a • a 'ja - a "ja - a >ja • a 

]tr ■^ '^ o*~*~* "♦ '^ • ♦"""■» '-^ *-Zj^' 

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» T)im • . 

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TECHNICAL TERMS 



USED IN 



ICE NAVIGATION, ETC, 



BAY-ICE, OR HARBOR-ICE.— Ice formed annually in bays or closed seas. 

BESET. — To be nearly or entirely fast in the sea-ice. 

BORING, OR "BUCKING" ICE.— Forcing the vessel by steam or sail through 

crowded ice. 
FIELD-ICE. — Closely aggregated ice covering a large area. 
FLOE. — A large piece, either of bay-ice or of paleocrystic ice. 

FLOEBERG. — A paleocrystic iceberg of regular cubical shape, flat top and 
bottom, perpendicular sides, "stratified" structure, and regular lines of 
cleavage. 

HUMMOCK. — An uneven, irregular part of floe-ice rising above the level, as 
does a mound above a plain. 

ICE-BLINK, OR ICE-SKY.— Reflection of light from the ice, causing great 
brightness in the sky at a particular point. 

ICE-FOOT. — Sea-ice formed along shore. It is stationary and is separated 
from the main, movable ice by the tide crack. 

LAND-ICE, OR FAST-ICE.— Floes or grounded masses of ice attached to 
the land. 

LANE, OR LEAD. — A narrow channel or passage between ice masses, through 
which a vessel may pass. 

NIPPED. — Situation of a ship when jammed or hard pressed by the ice. 

NORTH POLE (Geographical).— Ninety degrees of north latitude: the point 
directly beneath the North (Polar) Star. 

NORTH POLE (Magnetic). — The point where the dipping-needle becomes ver-: 
tical — nearly twenty degrees (of latitude) south of the North Geographical 
Pole. See Voyage of John C. Ross. 

PACK. — A considerable area of ice, consisting of large masses in close prox- 
imity. A t)ack may be either close or open, depending upon the closeness 
to which the masses are crowded. 



10 TECHNICAL TERMS. 

PA-LE-0-CRYST-IC ICE.— Ice of great thickness and of such character as 
must have required many years in its formation. Occurring generally in 
floes, its surface is undulatory, like the hills and vales of a "rolling 
prairie." 

PANCAKE. — A piece of bay-ice. 

RUBBLE. — Small, sharp, irregular pieces of ice, generally of recent forma- 
tion, and which have been broken up by pressure of heavy floes. 

SAILING-ICE. — A pack sufficiently open to allow a sailing-ship to pass 
through. 

STREAMS. — Long, narrow aggregations of broken ice. 

TIDE-CRACK. — The "break," or opening between the ice-foot and the main 
body of ice. It is formed by the action of the tides, and through it, during 
heavy, rising tides, water flows, causing tidal overflows. 

WARPING. — Moving a vessel by means of ropes attached to distant objects. 

WATER-SKY. — A dark sky, beneath which is generally to be found open 
water. It may be said to be the counterpart of the ice-blink. 

YOUNG ICE. — Ice of recent formation; that is, of not more than one year's 

growth, generally of a much shorter period. 

BLASTING. — Breaking the ice by means of gunpowder or dynamite. 

CALF. — A detached piece of ice either from an iceberg or the face of a glacier. 

CROW'S NEST. — A barrel fastened near the top of the mast, in which the 
watch may stand in order to direct the course of the ship. 

DOCK. — A recess in the sea-ice in which a ship may find anchorage. 

FIORD. — An abrupt opening in the coast. 

FIRE-HOLE. — A hole kept open through the sea-ice that water may be avail- 
able in case of flre. 

PEMMICAN. — Dried lean beef, pulverized and mixed with an equal quantity 
of suet. This is seasoned with currants and sugar and then the whole 
heated till the suet has melted and mixed with the other ingredients. It 
is kept in cans, hermetically sealed. In early times the hunters of British 
America preserved the flesh of the buffalo by flrst sun-drying and mixing 
it with the suet and then sewing it into bags made of the green hide of 
the buffalo. 

POLYNIA. — A Russian term designating an open water space in the ice. 

RUE-RADDY. — A shoulder-strap used in pulling the sledge. 

TIDE-HOLE.— Hole through the sea-ice allowing the rise and fall of the tide 
to be measured. 

TRACKING. — Towing or sailing a boat along the edge of the ice. 



THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE: 

— OR. — 

LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 



CHAPTER I. 

TO OUR READERS AND FRIENDS. 

A thoughtful and kindly consideration of the following 
introductory lines is earnestly requested of every person be- 
fore whose eyes they may appear. Such a course will explain 
the motive which has prompted the author in trusting one 
more book to the tender mercies of an indulgent public. The 
writer's interest, not merely from theory but from the more 
practical school of experience, in the matter of exploration 
and travel, has prompted him to arrange a book "after his 
own heart" — on the subject of Arctic research. If the reader 
feels as does the author the importance, the sublimity, of con- 
tinued effort in the conquest of the Great White World, it 
is believed that this volume will not be an unwelcome com- 
panion of its possessor. Its purpose, its plan, its scope, will 
appear presently. 

Know you, kind friend and reader, that men of science are 
agreed that definite knowledge of the Pole and its region 
will be of great value to the world? 

Ex-Judge Charles P. Daly, president of the American 
Geographical Society, once made an address at one of the 
meetings, in which he said: 

"Why should we try to reach the North Pole? Why send 
out costly expeditions involving peril to life and property, 
when we all know that the approach to the Arctic Zone is 



12 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

surrounded by insurmountable barriers? If it involved noth- 
ing more than the feat of reaching the Pole, it would be very 
difficult to answer such questions; but the general answer to 
them is that there is no portion of the globe where observa- 
tions in respect to scientific matters affecting the whole globe 
(every part of it) are so important as in the polar basin and 
its vicinity. The tremendous forces which are there at work 
and w^hich are the cause of the difficulty of exploration and 
observation are physical phenomena which it is most im- 
portant to observe and study. They have to do with the 
winds, the ocean currents, magnetic influences, and numerous 
questions of the most practical nature in their application 
and in the results to which they lead. The amount of knowl- 
edge in the world which has been discovered by accident is 
small in proportion to that which has been the result of pre- 
vious investigation. In the polar region will be found the 
key to unlock those mysteries in respect to the 'laws of mag- " 
netism. All knoAv that magnetism is a polar force; that it 
directs the needle which guides the seaman upon and around 
the earth. But it is only the scientific man that knows the 
insurmountable difficulties that beset investigation of its 
laws and how important to the world is a thorough knowledge 
of those laws. 

"The best answer ever given to the query, 'Well, what is 
the use of these expeditions?' was that given by Franklin, 
w^hen asked one day as regards his discovery of electricity, 
'What is the use of j^our discovery?' Franklin's reply was 
this: 'What is the use of a child? Make use of it.' The 
most ordinary things in our present civilization owe their 
origin to what in their day was scientific information, and 
they are due to the close observation and patient labors of 
men who could not have predicted the great results that fol- 
lowed their researches." 

In the scholarly language of Lieutenant N. F. Maury, of the 
United States Navy: 

"Voyages of discovery, with their fascinations and their 
charms, have led many a noble champion both into the torrid 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 13 

and frigid zones; and, notwithstanding tlie liardships, suffer- 
ings and disasters to wliicli Northern parties have found 
themselves exposed, seafaring men, as science has advanced, 
have looked with deeper and deeper longings toward the mys- 
tic circles of the polar regions. There icebergs are framed 
and glaciers launched. There the tides have their cradle, the 
whales their nursery. There the winds complete their cir- 
cuits and the currents of the sea their rounds in the wonderful 
system of oceanic circulation. There the Aurora Borealis is 
lighted up and the trembling needle brought to rest; and 
there, too, in the mazes of that mystic circle, terrestrial forces 
of occult power and of vast influence upon the well-being of 
man are continually at play. Within the Arctic Circle is the 
pole of the winds and the poles of the cold, the pole of the 
earth and of the magnet. It is a circle of mysteries, and the 
desire to enter it, to explore its untrodden wastes and secret 
chambers, and to study its physical aspects, has grown into 
a longing. Noble daring has made Arctic ice and waters 
classic ground. It is no feverish excitement nor vain ambi- 
tion that leads man there. It is a higher feeling, a holier mo- 
tive — a desire to look into the works of creation, to compre- 
hend the economy of our planet — and to grow wiser and bet- 
ter by the knowledge. 

"The expeditions which have been sent to explore unknown 
sea-s have contributed largely to the extent of human knowl- 
edge, and they have added renown to nations, and lustre to 
diadems. Navies are not all for war. Peace has its conquests, 
science its glories; and no navy can boast of brighter chaplets 
than those which have been gathered in the fields of geo- 
graphical exploration and physical research." Mr. Henry 
Grinnell, at a meeting of the American Geographical Society 
of New York, summarized the commercial results of Northern 
exploration as follows: 

"1. Sir H. Gilbert's discovery of the cod fisheries of New- 
foundland. 2. From Davis' discoveries the great whale fish- 
eries of the West. .3. From the discoveries of Hudson (who 
also discovered and sailed into our North River, which now 



14 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

bears his name, while on an Arctic voyage), Hudson's Bay, 
and the operations of the great fur companies. 4. Sir John 
Boss; the whale fishery of the north and northwest of Baf- 
fin's Baj. 5. Captain Parry; whale fishery of Lancaster 
Sound, Barrow Strait, and Prince Regent Inlet. 6. Admiral 
Beechy; whale fishery of Bering Straits, in which, in the 
space of two years, the whalers of Nantucket and New Bedford 
obtained cargoes from which it is said they have realized 
eight millions of dollars." 

A further illustration is to be found in the rapidly develop- 
ing resources of Alaska, since the purchase of which, from 
Ilussia, in ISGT, the United States has annually received over 
1300,000 in revenue from the sealeries alone. 

In the foregoing paragraphs we have purposely antici- 
pated the oft-repeated question, 

"OP WHAT USE IS ARCTIC EXPLORATION, ANYWAY?" 

The answers in the language of Lieutenant Maury and 
Mr. Grinnell should forever silence the tongue of idle objec- 
tion. As reasonably might one argue against the "use" of 
spending vast sums of money in studying the worlds now 
rushing through space millions of miles remote from our little 
world; or in otherwise promoting the interests of pure science. 
Well indeed it is for the moral and intellectual well-being of 
mankind that all are not engaged in the mad rush for wealth, 
for the mere sake of being considered the possessors — not 
users — ^of so many thousands! Sublime indeed it is that one 
gives money, another talent, another prime years, and even 
another, life — ail that something may be contributed to the 
sum of human knowledge. Franklin, Kane, Grinnell, Hall, 
Greely, Lick, Vanderbilt, Rockefeller — all these illustrate the 
sublimity of man as a public benefactor. No sane person will 
now question the "use" to which such men put the beneficent 
portion of their wealth, whether of money or of talent. With- 
out just such contributions as they individually made how 
many of them would to-day be known beyond a tombstone in- 
scription? Of those dead, not one! 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 15 

The following editorial from the brilliant pen of Noble 
Prentis, soldier, traveler, journalist, is of interest here: 

"THE STORY OF ARCTIC EXPLORATION. 

"There was an interesting meeting of the Royal Geograph- 
ical Society in London on Monday evening. The society, we 
may well suppose, is composed of men in the decline of years, 
and the 'object of the meeting' was to keep in mind and mem- 
ory a long-ago event, the sailing away in May, 1845, of the 
expedition of Sir John Franklin, which nevermore returned. 

"Among the old men present was Admiral Sir Francis 
McClintock, who commanded the 'Intrepid,' one of the five 
vessels which set out in 1852 in search of the lost Sir John 
and his company, and as he spoke of the experience of the 
searchers he alluded to the help extended by the Americans 
as forming a tie that had drawn kindred nations together. 
President Markham, of the society, sjDoke especially of the act 
of Henry Grinnell, an American, in fitting out an expedition 
in 1853, and finally our own Minister, Mr. Bayard, spoke of 
both Americans and Englishmen who had emulated each 
other in pressing toward the pole; Greely and Kane and 
Peary, and Franklin, Ross and McClintock, rivals in bravery 
and endurance and determination. 

"The meeting of these elderly gentlemen in a quiet room, 
talking over the old explorations and the heroes, for the most 
part gone, afforded a striking history and picture of man's 
determination to solve the problems of the North. At first 
bold navigators were led on by the hope of finding a north- 
west passage to the Pacific and the 'Golden East,' but that 
idea was dropped as impracticable, after Franklin and all his 
men had perished; then came expeditions in search of Frank- 
lin, and then more expeditions to be followed by more 
'searches,' and finally effort narrowed down to what may be 
called the modern expedition, purely scientific in its charac- 
ter, which aims to settle the question of the open Polar sea. 
The old plan of sending many vessels, fully manned and 
equipped, as those of Parry and Franklin, Belcher and the oth- 



16 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

ers, is no longer attempted. Yet men may be said to push 
on by twos and threes to the mysterious pole. Not again will 
a whole ship's company be sacrificed as was Franklin's, who 
was lost in his third journey, but on any day of the year, it 
may be said, little companies of men are ready to volunteer 
for the North. 

f'The story of Arctic explorations is, that earth nor sky 
nor ocean can have a terror that will be allowed to baffle 
man's fixed and intense desire to know. He is determined 
to tear from the heart of this world its every secret, and no 
wave so tumultuous and no cloud so black, and no ice gulf so 
wide, but he will make his way. Amid all the loss and dis- 
tress, and cold and hunger, and frightful danger and awful 
death, man has, year by year, worked at the solution of the 
problem of the North. How since Franklin's time has the 
map grown! Gulfs, capes, islands, continents have been 
traced. The blank space around the end of the earth grows 
smaller; perhaps the man lives who, solitary and alone, shall 
stand where never man stood before, to say: 'This is the 
Pole.' " 

Again, let us cite that incontrovertible Arctic authority. 
General A. W. Greely, and quote his admirable address on the 

SCOPE AND VALUE OF ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS, 

delivered before the Sixth International Geographical Con- 
gress, held at London, in July, 1895: 

"In a brief twenty minutes one can touch only in a desul- 
tory way on this great topic that engages the thought and at- 
tention of so many famous members of the Geographical Con- 
gress, yet a somewhat general outline of the scope and value 
of Arctic exploration may not be amiss. 

"This, however, is neither time nor place to present in 
detail those phases of Arctic exploration that appeal so 
strongly to the popular fancy. If one would gain an ade- 
quate idea of the true aspects of such voyaging, he must turn 
to the original journals, penned in the great White North by 
brave men whose 'purpose held to sail bejond the sunset.' 



More Dangerous than Arctic Exploration. 
Accident on the Matterhorn, August, 1893. 




"We pressed up close to the rock, when the two shot past us. They were tied 
together. Seller passed close to us * * * Biener flew out against the blue sky, 
and the rope was stretched tightly between them." 






Sir John Franklin. 

Dr. Hayes. 
Lieut. Schwatka. 



Mr. Bonsall. 



Dr. Kane. 

Capt. Hall. 

Lieut. De Long. 



(See Chanters VI., XL, XVJ., XXV., XXVIII.. XXX., XXXI., XXXII., XXXIV. 
Ibee <_,uaptLr= v i., .vi., xXXV II.. cand XXXIX.) 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 17 

"In these volumes will be found tales of ships beset not 
only months, but years; of ice packs and ice fields of extent, 
thickness, and mass so enormous that description conveys no 
just idea; of boat journeys where constant watchfulness alone 
prevented instant death by drifting bergs or commingling ice 
floes; of land marches when exhausted humanity staggered 
along, leaving traces of blood on snow or rock; of sledge jour- 
neys over chaotic masses of ice, when humble heroes, strain- 
ing at the drag-ropes, struggled on because the failure of one 
compromised the safety of all; of solitude and monotony, ter- 
rible in the weeks of constant polar sunlight, but almost un- 
settling the reason in the months of continuous Arctic dark- 
ness; of silence awful at all times, but made j^et more start- 
ling by astounding phenomena that appeal noiselessly to the 
eye; of darkness so continuous and intense that the unsettled 
mind is driven to wonder whether the ordinary course of na- 
ture will bring back the sun, or whether the world has been 
cast out of its orbit in the planetary universe into new con- 
ditions; of cold so intense that any exposure is followed by 
instant freezing; of monotonous surroundings that threaten 
with time to unsettle the reason; of de]Drivations wasting the 
body, and so impairing the mind; of failure in all things, not 
only of food, fuel, clothing, and shelter, for Arctic service fore- 
shadows such contingencies, but the bitter failure of plans 
and aspirations, which brings almost inevitable despair in its 
train. 

"Failure of all things, did I say? Nay; failure, be it ad- 
mitted, of all the physical accessories of conceived and accom- 
plished action, but not failure in the higher and more essen- 
tial attributes — not of the mental and moral qualities that 
are the foundation of fortitude, fidelity, and honor. Failure 
in this latter respect has been so rare in Arctic service as to 
justly make such offender a byword and scorn to his fellow- 
laborers and successors. 

"Patience, courage, fortitude, foresight, self-reliance, help- 
fulness — these grand characteristics of developed humanity 
everywhere, but which we are inclined to claim as special en- 



18 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

dowments of the Caucasian race — find ample expression in 
the detailed history of Arctic exploration. If one seeks to 
learn to what extent man's determination and effort dominate 
even the most adverse environment, the simple narratives of 
Arctic exploration will not fail to furnish striking examples. 

"There is a widespread impression that all Arctic vo^-ages 
have been made for practically the same general purpose, 
whereas polar research has passed through three distinctive 
phases: First, for strictly commercial purposes in connection 
with trade to the Indies; second, for advancement of geo- 
graphical knowledge, and, third, for scientific investigations 
connected with physical sciences. 

"Commercial interests dictated the grand series of voyages 
wherein England, competing with Spain from the period of 
the ventures of the Cabots to the discoveries of Baffin, sought 
for a short route to the Indies, across the pole or b^^ a north- 
west passage. As the futility of efforts by these routes be- 
came more or less apparent, and as the naval strength of 
Spain and Portugal ensured their continued monoftol}^ of the 
growing and valuable trade of the Orient, the attention of 
England was turned in sheer desperation to the northeast 
passage as possibly offering a competing route. While this 
quest proved impracticable for the sailing ships of the six- 
teenth centur}', yet its prosecution inured to the great finan- 
cial advantage of England through the establishment thereby 
of intimate and exclusive commercial relations with the grow- 
ing and hitherto inaccessible empire of Russia. 

"The renewal of the true spirit of geographical exploration 
in the early part of the present centur}^ gave rise to a series 
of unparalleled voyages in search of the northwest passage, 
which resulted in the most splendid geographical achieve- 
ments of the century. These voyages were not splendid alone 
from the definite results attained, nor from the almost super- 
human efforts that ensured success, but also from the lofty 
spirit of endeavor and adventure that inspired the actors. 
The men who strove therein were lured hj no hope of gain, 
influenced by no spirit of conquest, but were moved solely 



OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 19 

by the belief that man should know even the most desolate 
regions of his abiding place, the earth, and the determination 
that the Anglo-Saxon should do his part. 

"Franklin said: 'Arctic discovery has been fostered from 
motives as disinterested as they are enlightened; not from 
any prospect of immediate benefit, but from a steady view to 
the acquirement of useful knowledge and the extension of 
the bounds of science, and its contributions to natural history 
and science have excited a general interest. The loss of life 
in the prosecution of these discoveries does not exceed the 
average deaths in the same population at home.' Parry adds: 
'Such enterprises, so disinterested as Well as useful in their 
object, do honor even when they fail. They cannot but excite 
the admiration of every liberal mind.' 

"Of Chancellor's voyage to the northeast Milton said : 'The 
discovery of Russia by the Northern Ocean * * * might 
have seemed an enterprise almost heroic if any higher end 
than excessive love of gain and trafftc had animated the de- 
sign.' Modern critics except from dispraise the gallant men 
who in this century have given thjeir lives from no sordid mo- 
tive, and so merit Milton's full praise. 

"If not all, certainly some of these arctics have been ani- 
mated with the noble thought of the poet: 

'And this gray spirit yearning in desire 
To follow knowledge like a shining star 
Beyond the utmost bound of human thought.' 

"Suffice it is to say, for geographic research, that it has re- 
mained for the nineteenth century, with its wealth of indus- 
trial inventions and store of indomitable energy, to make the 
northwest and northeast passages, to outline the northern 
coast of America, and to discover the archipelagoes and islands 
situated poleward from the three continents of the northern 
hemisphere. 

"Hudson's voyage to the Greenland sea, in 1607, was of 
vast industrial and commercial importance, for his discovery 
and reports of the incredible number of walruses and whales 



20 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

that frequented these seas gave rise to the Spitzbergen whale 
fishery. 

"The voyage of Poole for walruses and exploration, in 
1610, was followed by the establishment of the whale fishery 
by Edge in the following year. Enterprising Holland sent 
its ships in 1613, later bringing in its train whalers from 
Bremen, France, and other maritime centers. The whale 
fishery, as the most important of Arctic industries, from which 
Holland alone drew from the Spitzbergen seas in one hundred 
and ten years, 1679-1778, products valued at about |90,000,000, 
merits at least our brief attention. 

"Grad writes: 'The Dutch sailors saw in Spitzbergen 
waters great whales in immense numbers, whose catch would 
be a source of apparently inexhaustible riches. For two cen- 
turies fleets of whalers frequented its seas. The rush to the 
gold-beariug placers of California and the mines of Australia 
afforded in our day the onl}'^ examples at all comparable to 
the host of men attracted by the northern fisher3^' 

"Scoresby says: 'In a short time (whaling) proved the 
most lucrative and the most important branch of national 
commerce which had ever been offered to man.' This em- 
phatic statement is devoid of exaggeration in the slightest 
degree. Scoresby gives, year by year, the products of the 
Dutch whale fishery in the Arctic seas from 1668 to 1778, 
which aggregate in value over |100,000,000. When it is known 
that Scoresby himself caught in thirty voyages fish to the 
value of 11,000,000, it will not be considered extravagant to 
place the products of the British whale fishery at |250,000,000. 
Starbuck gives the product of the American whale fishery 
from 1801 to 1877 as |332,000,000, making the aggregate of 
three nations — America, England, and Holland — more than 
1680,000,000. How far this amount should be increased on 
account of seal, walrus, and other strictly Arctic sea game 
need not be considered, but Norwegian and Kussian fishers 
have successfully exploited these sources for the past century. 

"The visit of Liakoff to the New Siberian Islands added 
eventually a wealth of fossil ivory to Siberian trade that was 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD, 21 

only second in value to the extraordinary stock of furs that 
grew out of the explorations of the Arctic valley of the Kolima 
by Kussian hunters. From Hudson's voyage to the bay of his 
name are attributable the initiation and development of the 
extremely valuable fur trade of the Hudson Bay Company. 
Bering failed to outline the definite geographic relations of 
the contiguous shores of Asia and America, but his voyages 
directly resulted in the very extensive sea and land fur trade 
which has proved so profitable through a century and a half. 

"Altogether it may be assumed that in a little over two 
centuries the Arctic regions have furnished to the civilized 
world products aggregating twelve hundred millions of dollars 
in value. 

"Nor should it be inferred that commercial ends, scientific 
knowledge, or the glory of effort crystallized in accomplish- 
ment have alone turned man to the polar regions. The altru- 
istic spirit of Egede lavished its wealth of effort in the turn- 
ing of the Greenland Eskimo to Christianity and civilization, 
and it enkindled the flame of Christian endeavor that Crantz 
and the Moravian brethren kept alive during the critical 
phases of Greenland's history. As Cowper says: 

'See Germany send forth 

Her sons to pour it on the farthest north. 

Fired with a zeal peculiar, they defy 

The rage a.nd rigor of a polar sky 

And plant successfully sweet Sharon's rose 

On icy plains and in eternal snows.' 

"In recent days Great Bjitain has had its Duncan, France 
its Petitot, and the United States its Jackson, whose evangel- 
izing labors, acting through the more successful method — 
that of inculcating civilization and helpfulness — are a part 
of the glory of this time. The residence of Holm among the 
East Greenland natives and of Peary with the Etah Eskimos 
have, it is to be hoped, not been fruitless along these lines, 
and should stimulate human sympath}^ for these dwellers on 
the northern edge of the world. Every lover of mankind will 
rejoice that Denmark, with the Christian solicitude that has 



22 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

always marked its policy towaTds the Greenlanders, has ex- 
tended its unprofitable trade relations to East Greenland and 
established a missionary station at Angmagsalik for the bene- 
fit of the natives. May we not hope that some religious asso- 
ciation may likewise plant the seeds of civilization and Chris- 
tianity among the Cape York Eskimos? 

"There is neither intent nor time to eulogize worthily the 
deeds of living Arctic men, nor even to stimulate the eager 
rising youth who shall outdo all that has gone before; rather 
would this brief word add a leaf of laurel to the crowned dead 
whose Arctic fame forms part of each nation's historic heritage 
— hallowed for the past, priceless for the present, indispensa- 
ble for successful futurity, 

"Shall I name the soldiers or sailors, the explorers or sci- 
entists, the trader or the whaler? Rather all, since science 
knows neither station nor profession, neither dialect nor na- 
tionality. 

"In the roll-call of the dead, Austria-Hungary answers with 
Weyprecht, whose greatest fame will ever be associated with 
the establishment of the international polar stations. 

"Denmark follows, equally at home in American, Asiatic, 
or European waters, through Munk and Hamke, Jan Mayen 
and Vitus Bering. 

"Then France with De la Croyere, Pages, Blosseville, Fabre, 
Gaimard, Marmier, Martins, and Bellot, the last a name ever 
grateful to English ears. 

"Germany has generously loaned her talent to insure suc- 
cess wherever sound and important scientific work is to be 
done. Baer, Bessell, Petermann, and Steller are worthy suc- 
cessors to Frederick Martens, of the seventeenth century — 
men and work of which any nation may be proud. 

"Holland, in Barents, Na}^, Tetgales, Bip, and Heemskerck, 
presents a roll of honor well in keeping with the notable work 
of the thousands of Dutch whalers that exploited the Spitz- 
bergen seas. 

"The Italian contingent, from the Zeni of the fourteenth 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 23 

century through the Cabots to Bove of our own day, maintain 
here, as elsewhere, their geographic standing. 

"Norwegian Othere set in the ninth century the pioneer 
standard of Arctic exploration, w^hich later, combined with 
the labor of exploiting the northern seas, has Mattilas, Carl- 
sen, Tobiesen, and a score of others as worthy successors. 

"Russia finds the Arctic problem a domestic question, and 
from the time of Peter the Great to to-day has done an amount 
of work not generally appreciated or known. The Laptieffs 
and Deshneff, Tchirikof, and Liakoff, Anjou and Wrangell, 
Kotzebue and Liltke, Pachtussof, Krusenstern and Zivolka, 
stand forth in the annals of the world. 

"In Iledenstrom and Torrell, Sweden finds examples that 
have borne such abundant fruit in the late active labors of 
her enthusiastic sons. 

"Once it was said that the almighty- dollar was the object 
and end of American endeavor, but when American treasure- 
not by the millions but hj the billions — was poured out and 
lives by the hundreds of thousands were joj^fully given for an 
idea, the men of the new world rose to a higher place in 
Euroi)ean estimation. 

"A fellow-townsman of mine was a petty officer under Sir 
John Franklin, and among the hundreds engaged in the 
Franklin search none had a more altruistic and generous spirit 
than the American Elisha Kent Kane. Hayes left no danger 
undared to reach his 'Open Polar Sea,' Rodgers dared all, in 
Arctic ice as in the War for the Union. De Long and Ambler 
knew how to die, but not how to desert a helpless comrade. 
Hall followed the Arctic sledge to his very death. Lock- 
w^ood, whose personal toil and suffering accomplished the 
farthest north and set the goal beyond which some more for- 
tunate rival will soon pass, met with fortitude and sweetness 
the harsh fate which debarred the world from placing its 
laurel wreath save on his grave. 

"I can scarcely say aught of British effort in a field that 
has been peculiarly England's for the past three centuries. 
And how, among her innumerable Arctic dead, shall I single 



24 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

out representatives, worthy examplers of British courage and 
effort? Like Macbeth's kings, the line stretches out to crack 
of doom. 

''Great were the daring navigators of the sixteenth and 
seventeenth centuries — Chancellor and Davis and Frobisher, 
Hudson and Wajmouth, B^dot and Baffin; but were they 
greater than in their way were Cook, Hearne, and Mackenzie 
in the eighteenth? 

"And when we come to their worthj^ compeers of this cen- 
tury, there is barel}' room for the names of these daring spirits. 
Here is Britain's unequaled roll: 

"Austin, Back, Beeche}^, Buchan, Clavering, Collinson, Cro- 
zier, Forsyth, Goodsir, Inglefield, Kellett, Kennedy, Lefro}^, 
Lyon, McClure, Maguire, Mecham, Moore, the immortal Nel- 
son, Osborn, Penny, Pim, Rae, Richardson, James C. Boss, 
John Ross, Sabine, Saunders, Scoresby, father and son; Simp- 
son, and Stewart. 

"Close communion in spirit and thought with their record- 
ed labors for many years has made for me manj^ friends 
among the great Arctic dead, and so particularly segregates 
in my mind, from this alphabetical list, the twin Arctic com- 
peers, Franklin and Parry, as facile princeps in this great com- 
pany. 

"But the histor}' of these men is inextricably interwoven 
with the wonderful development of the British Empire, and 
their deeds forever abide to the glory of the English-speaking 
race. 

"And of the Arctic dead of Europe, Asia, and America, 
from the earliest Othere of Norway and the Zeni of Italy to 
the latest fallen in Sweden, Nordenskiold the younger, prom- 
ising son of his distinguished father, there may well be quoted 
the words of an American soldier: 

'On Fame's eternal camping ground 

Their silent tents are spread, 
And Glory guards with solemn round 

The bivouac of the dead.' 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 25 

"8torm-stayed and ice-beset no longer, their dust awaits 
the change and fate ordained by God's eternal laws. 

^'The end they sought, the work they wrought, the courage 
and devotion they showed, should stand as ideals and patterns 
for the men of the future in the accomplishment of the great 
Arctic work which it shall be their good fortune to undertake. 

"But now we look again to England to retake its former 
place in Arctic research. Shall we look in vain? I believe 
not. 

"Let her remember that the beginning of the end will have 
come for the ever-extending and ever-developing British power 
when this insular people would ever consent, for any sum in 
pounds and pence, that the Arctic relics of Greenwich should 
be scattered, or that there should ever be removed from West- 
minster Abbey, rich with its clustering memories and gath- 
ered treasures of a thousand years, the tribute of genius to 
heroism, of England's poet laureate to its Arctic dead. 

"Well has it been for Britain that hundreds of its youth 
have imbibed together learning and patriotism, love of the 
beautiful and admiration for glorj^, while translating into 
classic verse these immortal words : 

'Not here. The white north has thy bones, and thou, 

Heroic sailor soul, 
Art passing on thine happier voyage now 

Towards no earthly pole.' " 

Contrary to popular belief, the 

LOSS OF LIFE IN ARCTIC RESEARCH 

has been remarkably small. Of all the men engaged in the 
search for Franklin, as well as in Arctic explorations since then, 
less than two per cent died through such service, and in the 
more recent voyages the casualties have not equalled those 
ordinarily occurring among the ships on naval duty in other 
regions of the globe. Says Lieutenant Maury: "The losses by 
wreckage around the British Isles during a single year ex- 
ceeded the aggregate of all those within the history of Arctic 
exploration." 



26 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Experience lias also demonstrated that the health of men 
when properl}^ provisioned and equipped is even better north 
of the Arctic Circle than in lower latitudes. These conditions 
met, in that region is made the best blood in the world, as 
pure and vigorous as the air which there purifies and en- 
livens it. 

The fact that 

PRIVATE ENTERPRISE 

has done so much during the past four hundred years toward 
acquiring a scientific knowdedge of the polar regions is a hope- 
ful indication of the spirit of pure benevolence in man, the 
exercise of which has already in the aggregate led to practical 
results of great value. A cursory glance at the history of 
some of the Arctic expeditions will show this. Beginning 
with Sebastian Cabot, in 1553, who will now venture to ques- 
tion the utility of the private and governmental expense of 
sending him in search of a passage which he did not find? 
For he found something better — he found land. Had Frobish- 
er's voyages a quarter of a century later been undertaken w^itli 
a spirit of exploration and scientific research, instead of a 
desire for gold, his fifteen years spent in pleading with the 
nobility of England for funds would not have gone for naught. 
Greed said nothing was as valuable as gold, and when that 
was not to be found, all else failed. The true spirit of ex- 
ploration would at that time have discovered the whale and 
seal fisheries of Baffin's Ba}^, and even the waters of Hudson's 
Bay. Davis, however, under the generous patronage of his 
friend Sanderson, in 1585, skirted the west coast of Greenland, 
and endeavored to lighten expenses by fishing. The desire 
for gain was made of secondary importance. Russia, too, has 
supplied her share of human benefactors; for Schalaroff, in 
1758, built a vessel at his own expense and sought to sail along 
the north coast of Siberia, and Wrangell, although making 
his journeys with but four or five white companions as the 
accredited representative of the Naval Department, reduced 
expenses by the employment of native help. Ross, after hav- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 27 

ing ^pent |15,000 of his own, obtained the generous patronage 
of Felix Booth, by whom he was sent, in 1829, on the voyage 
which resulted, two years later, in the 

DISCOVERY OF THE NORTH MAGNETIC POLE, 

whereby the navigation of the seas and the surveying of all 
northern lands is rendered more certain. Moreover, this voy- 
age led to the introduction of steam-power into Arctic naviga- 
tion. Back's famous and highl}^ satisfactory exjDedition was 
made possible by means of a public subscription of |20,O00 
and an addition of |10,000 by the Government. A quarter of 
a century later much of the funds raised in conducting the 
search for Franklin was raised by private subscriptions. From 
these, Inglefield, in 1852, was equipped not only by means of 
contributions in money, but by individual donations of tents, 
sledges, traveling apparatus, and countless other articles. 
Kane, in 1853, was "backed" by Henry Grinnell and George 
Peabody, while various scientific societies also contributed 
liberally in money and articles of equipment. Hayes, after 
persistent efforts during five years, succeeded in organizing 
his expedition in 1860. He first presented his cause before the 
American Geographical Society and then before the American 
Association for the Advancement of Science. The association 
at once appointed a committee of sixteen to assist him in the 
furtherance of his plans. Eventually 

FOUR HUNDRED BUSINESS MEN AND FIRMS 

in Albany, Boston, New York and Philadelphia subscribed 
liberally to the enterprise and the Smithsonian Institution 
supplied the necessary scientific instruments. Hayes also ap- 
plied toward the expenses of the expedition the funds secured 
by lecturing. Hall, the son of a blacksmith, having first di- 
vulged his plans to a few intimate friends, received encour- 
agement from United States Senator Chase, Governor Den- 
nison and others, while individuals and societies made 
response in additional funds and equipment. 

Free transportation was also granted his expedition by one 



28 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

of the steamship lines. In 1869 the organizers of the Second 
German Expedition issued an appeal for funds and donations 
"to the towns of the fatherland," and in reply received the 
hearty co-operation of their countrymen. 

The King of Prussia took a personal interest in the suc- 
cess of the enterprise in a manner indicative of a great mind 
and a kind heart. The Austro-Hungarian Expedition, in 
1872, was sent out largely at the expense of Count Wilczek. 
Its discovery of Franz-Josef Land in the following year gave 
an important vantage-ground to future explorers of the Arctic 
Ocean. KSchwatka, in 1878, was supplied with provisions and 
equipment from private sources, and was given free transpor- 
tation by Messrs. Morrison and Brown. In the same year 
the "Vega," with twenty men. Professor Nordenskiold in 
charge, was equipped at an expense to the state of only |9,500, 
the remainder being made up by individual contributions. 
De Long, in 1879, undertook his ill-starred expedition almost 
entirely through the liberality of James Gordon Bennett. The 
Lady Franklin Bay Expedition of 1881-4, Lieutenant Greely 
commanding, although a "Government enterprise," was fitted 
out at an expense of only |25,000, three-fourths of which went 
to charter the vessel, and less than |(),000 for supplies for a 
party of twenty-five men. Had the provisions alone been 
supplemented by private donations and deposited at Cape 
Sabine and other desirable points, on the outward voyage, 
the awful tragedy at Camp Clay would not have occurred. 
Dr. Nansen's first crossing of Greenland, in 1888, was a suc- 
cessful private undertaking. Mr. August Gehiel became his 
financial "backer," while the "Committee of Students' Union" 
and large numbers of his countrymen added liberally to the 
expeditionar}^ fund. Nansen's great success in this led him 
to undertake, in 1893, the great voyage the outcome of w^hich 
the whole world awaits with intense interest. Maj no future 
historian have to record that the brave voyagers of the "Fram" 
failed for lack of supplies, or for lack of assistance on the 
part of a w^orld reveling in luxury while men stand ready and 
willing to carry that assistance at any opportune moment. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 29 

All of Pear^-'s expeditions were private ventures, the funds for 
the same being raised from lecturing, newspaper correspond- 
ence and other individual sources. 

Elsewhere, in our reference to Lieutenant Pearj^'s Expedi- 
tion, will be found a concise statement of views which we 
have long entertained. 

In the preparation of this volume the author has not done 
so without careful studj^ and a certain amount of more val- 
uable experience. Both have enabled him to select and ar- 
range the material so as to save the reader a great expense 
both of time and money were he to attempt to inform himself 
concerning North Polar research by the purchase of many 
expensive books dealing almost exclusively^ with separate 
undertakings. So far as known to the writer, no other at- 
tempt has ever been made to present a popular, up-to-date 
narrative of Arctic toil, and no pains have been spared to 
make it replete with suggestions for the man of learning as 
well as full of information and entertainment for the masses. 
Moreover, its purpose, 

ITS MISSION. 

is to assist in prosecuting future exjDloration — as will be 
learned by reference to the plans stated toward the close of 
the volume. Should its, sale not even equal by a fourth that 
of some other books of less value and durability, and which 
(some of them not unlaudably) have been published solely 
for the purpose of private gain, we shall be enabled to carry 
out our plans unhampered for want of funds — with an abund- 
ance of food, clothing, equipment, etc. Men engaged in Arctic 
service gain but. little reward in dollars and dimes — thej are 
certainly entitled to a fair share of bodily comfort, and the 
expedition that cannot reasonably provide for this should not 
venture poleward — be it either north or south. Had some of 
the past "failures" occurred before starting, how different 
would be the record of results! Men are now agreed that the 
return voyage should be as carefully provided for as the 
outward trip. The liberal patronage of our friends and read- 



30 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

ers not only in directly extending the circulation of this book, 
but also in many incidental ways, will help to insure such a 
result. In the final outcome, with "a long pull, a strong pull, 
and a pulj all together," each individual may have the satisfac- 
tion of having done something for the common good and in 
rendering success more certain. 

Already, in the production of these pages — the study and 
exploration directly represented — have three of the best years 
of the author's life found expression, for the most part in 
recording the work of others, yet not without fond hopes in 
the future and an unshaken confidence in the intelligence and 
patriotism of the American people in promoting every cause 
worthy of man's best efforts. 

Thanking numerous friends and well-wishers, among whom 
are some of the ablest minds of our great commonwealth, for 
their generous encouragement and hearty co-operation, the 
author bespeaks for the cause a like response from many 
thousands. In due time we trust to be able to return all 
favors in substantial and enduring ways. 

To Professor T. C. Chamberlin, formerly president of Mad- 
ison University, but now head professor of geology, University 
of Chicago, thanks are especially due for numerous favors, 
not the least of which are valuable suggestions relating to the 
arrangement of portions of our manuscript and for his endur- 
ing interest in the aims and objects proposed. 

To Mr. H. G. Bryant, commander of the Peary Auxiliary 
Expedition of 1894; Professor William Libbey of Princeton 
College; Mr. II. L. Bridgman, Managing Editor of the Brook- 
lyn Standard Union; Messrs. F. H. Hild, B. M. Smith, David 
Oliphant, W. B. Conkey, W. J. Eoot, John Sebastian, Addison 
C. Thomas, George H. Benedict, Hon. William A. Vincent, H. 
11. Rassweiler, Samuel E. Knecht, Hon. George R. Peck, George T. 
Nicholson, Professors W. II. Holmes, E. B. Garriott, and E. E. 
Barnard, the Members of The Chicago Academy of Sciences, 
and others of Chicago; Mrs. N. C. Knickerbocker, Preceptress 
of Northwestern College, the late James L. Nichols, Esq., and 
Messrs. Royce and Scott, Naperville, 111. ; Messrs. Patrick and 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 



31 



Liitlie, Des Moines; Mr. E. F. Burnett, New York; Major H. C. 
Bate, Nashville; Major T. J. Anderson, Topeka; Mr. J. B. Mar- 
burj, Baltimore, and to General A. W. Greely, Washington, 
we feel specially obligated for their courteous interest at all 
times. 




TrsoN s CBEW slGHTI^a the storca vvhallk whicu rescued them off eabeauoh.' 



32 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



CHAPTER II. 

EARLY NORSE. ENGLISH AND DUTCH VOYAGES. 

The wind goetli toward the south, and turneth about unto the north; it 
wliirletli about continually, and the wind returneth again according to his 
circuits. — Ecclesiastes 1, 6. 

He stretcheth out the north over the empty place, and hangeth the earth 
upon nothing. — Job xxvi, 7. 

Thus, it may be conjectured, the man of much wisdom and 
the man of patience each spoke of the same North Pohir 
regions; and, although often baffled, and perishing in the 
attempt, later generations of men have undauntedh' perse- 
vered in an ever-enlarging interpretation of the words of in- 
spiration. 

FASCINATING INDEED 

is the story, and, though oft told, is ever fresh, with the con- 
cluding chapters increasing in interest, drawing the reader 
with siren-like power, irresistibly onward. 

Fortunately, one is not compelled to flee to mythological 
and traditional periods, to any considerable extent, for a be- 
ginning. The seal of authenticity appears to have been well 
stamped upon all Arctic matters from the first. True, that 
the ancient Greeks considered Scantlinavia an island or group 
of islands; that Pytheas of Marseilles, sailing in 330 B. C. 
to the Northern Sea, arrived at an island which he called 
Thule, from his native telos, meaning goal, but by which term 
is disputable whether he meant Iceland or one of the Shet- 
lands. The difference, however, is of little moment, since 
it is clear that he had touched upon Arctic conditions. 
"Here," he says, "the sun never descends (sets) below the hori- 
zon for a certain number of days during the summer solstice." 
Had he remained there during the winter he would doubt- 



>y#^yf •."• 








(1.) The Barren Lands, August 17, 1826-Kendall. (2.) " Hecla" and "GU-iper" 
Cutting into Winte*Quarters, September 20, 1819— Lt. Beechey. (3.) "Hecla" and 
"Griper" July 4, 1819— Beechey. (4.) Iceberg, Baffin's Bay, July, 1819. (5.) "Hecla" 
and "Griper," September 20, 1819— Lt. Hoppner. (6.) Burnet Inlet, Barrow's 
Strait— Beechey. (7.) "Hecla" and "Griper" in Winter Harbor, 1819-20— Beecliev. 
(See Chapter V.) 







j^ff nf^Sr^^^ '" " " ^ ' 



'sm«»**lt*^e"*^ * 




iir'rrniiiiiifirii" limnniMH^ ;;;mM6''' 




(1.) "Hecla" and "(iiiper. ' AhitlisI 17-1!:H, ls-20— Lt. Hoppnor. (2.) Mn^kBull, Mel- 
villeisland— Beechey. (3.) Eskimos ol the "■Kiver Clyde" or Inlet. West Coast of 
Haffin's Bay— Beecliey and Hoppner. (4.) "Fury" and "Hecla" at Ig-loo-Lilc, Winter, 
18'^2~23— Lyon. (?.) Canoe of Savage Islands, Hudson's Strait— Lyon. (6.) Cutting 
into Winter Island, October, 1821— Lyon. (See Chapters V. and VllL) 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 33 

less have also added that for a like number of days during the 
winter solstice the sun never ascends (rises) above the horizon. 

Following the custom of jealous stay-at-home critics, 
Polybius and Strabo declare his accounts to be "absurd" and 
incredible. In his "absurdity" lies the authenticity of his 
discoveries and observations to more modern intelligence. 
That he possessed the true spirit of discovery and observation 
is apparent and it appears that he was the first to determine 
the latitude of a place from the sun's shadow and the first to 
suspect that the tides are influenced by the moon. 

Five hundred years later, or about the middle of the eighth 
century, we find 

THE BOLD NORSEMEN 

pushing westward from the densely-populated shores of Scan- 
dinavia and effecting permanent settlements on the Faroe, 
Shetland, and Orkney Islands. Thence again westward and 
northward to Iceland, hanging upon the Arctic Circle, which 
they settled permanently in A. D. 874. Whence, less than 
three hundred miles bej^ond, and but two years later, they 
accidentally discovered Greenland, the importance of which, 
however, did not appear till its re-discovery in 983 by Eric 
the Eed and its colonization two years later. 

Iceland, we learn, was able to maintain her independence 
for four centuries — A. D. 928-1387 — or until compelled to sub- 
mit to the King of Norway and Denmark. 

Greenland also "prospered" for several centuries, and main- 
tained her bishops from A. D. 1121 to 1409. The black death, 
which in three years, 1348-51, sw^ept away from Europe twen- 
ty-five millions of her population, also decimated Iceland and 
Greenland and caused them to decline politically and com- 
mercially. With the removal of the last bishop of Greenland 
probably went the annalist of the Colony, as, for the next two 
hundred years, there is no written record. 

Sixty-eight years after the disappearance of the last bishop 
of Greenland, and fifteen years before the discovery of the 
southern portion of North America by Columbus, we find the 



34 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

following confirmation, written by himself, that the great 
Genoese was himself an Arctic voyager. He says: "In 1477 
I navigated one hnndred leagues beyond Thule." 

Five centuries before the immortal Christopher thus vis- 
ited Iceland, the bold Biarne Iler-julf-son, in search of his 
father, had set sail from Iceland for Greenland. Driven by 
storm, he was carried from his course and did not touch upon 
Greenland until after the comparativel}^ greener shores of 
Labrador or Newfoundland had been accidentally discovered. 
Fourteen years later, that is in A. D. 1000, Lief Ericson, a 
son of Eric the Ked, with thirty-five men sailed along the coast 
of Labrador southward to a pleasant country abounding in 
grapes and called by them Vinland. Here the ensuing winter 
was spent. Two years later Thorwald, another son of Eric 
the Ked, visited the place and discovered Cape Cod. Thence- 
forward Vinland was extensively colonized from Greenland 
and visited by the Norsemen. Unfortunately^, they were 
fiercely attacked by the natives, and further efforts at colo- 
nization were abandoned. At the head of this colony was 
Karlsefne. To him and to the beautiful and brave Gudrid 
was born a son, Snorri, the first child born in America to 
European parents. To quote: "The boy was named Snorri, 
and in his noble manhood founded one of the most distin- 
guished families of Iceland, then the abode of princely Scan- 
dinavians, with their retinue of armed followers." This was 
evidently in Ehode Island, for, in an old record of the Vinland 
colony, it is stated that "On the shortest day the sun remained 
nine hours above the horizon." 

From this astronomical fact it appears that the colony was 
located between 41° and 42° north latitude, which corresponds 
with the situation of Rhode Island. Moreover, the old stone 
tower at Newport, Ehode Island, and the inscription upon 
Dighton Rock, on the bank of the Taunton River, are man- 
ifestly memorials of these hardy people. 

We have already seen that, fifteen years after the visit of 
Columbus to Iceland, he discovered the Bahama Islands, thus 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 35 

inciting the English and French to rival the Spanish in fur- 
ther discoveries. The search for a 

NORTHWEST PASSAGE. 

by the Cabots, leading to the re-discovery of Newfoundland 
and Labrador in 1497-8 may be said to be the first in a long 
series of voyages undertaken for the purpose of revealing the 
ice-imprisoned secrets of the Arctic world. In a subsequent 
voyage, undertaken in 1517, Sebastian Cabot explored the 
region now known as Hudson's Bay, naming several places. 
In this voj^age he passed a degree beyond the Arctic Circle 
(G6° 30') attaining 67° 30'. 

The history of this great man during all these years is one 
of varying success and disappointment and we see him now in 
the service of England, now of Spain. Meanwhile, ignorant 
of the vast extent or configuration of the northern European 
and Asiatic continents, he had become imbued with the idea 
of reaching India by a 

NORTHEAST PASSAGE, 

and accordingly in May, 1553, under his own and Royal Eng- 
lish patronage, three vessels set sail, one of which, becoming 
separated from her consorts, returned to England before the 
close of the year. Of the other two, the one under command 
of Eichard Chancellor reached the mouth of the Dwina River, 
whence Chancellor, starting from the monastery of St. Nich- 
olas, near the present site of Archangel, made a successful 
overland journey to Moscow, then the residence of Ivan IV., 
or Vasilievitch II., "the Terrible," czar and autocrat of all 
the Russians, with whom he opened very friendly and mutu- 
ally advantageous commercial relations between England and 
Russia. 

The third vessel, under command of Sir Hugh Willoughby, 
became hemmed in by the ice at the mouth of the Dwina 
River, and all on board were found frozen to death the fol- 
lowing season by some Lapland fishermen. That these men 
sacrificed themselves through ignorance and inexperience is 



36 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

apparent from the fact that there was sufficient moss and 
turf and animal-life on shore to have amply sustained them 
had they but put forth efforts in that direction. Sir Hugh's 
vessel, however, had penetrated as far as Nova Zembla, which, 
as will be seen by reference to the map, lies just north of the 
dividing line between Russia and Siberia. 

Chancellor again, in 1554, with four vessels, made a suc- 
cessful voyage to the monastery of St. Nicholas, but, upon 
returning, was storm-harassed and three of his ships were 
wrecked, the brave navigator himself perishing in the angry 
sea, while the inexperienced landsman, one of the Russian 
ambassadors, whose life he was endeavoring to save, escaped. 
Two years later, Stephen Burrough, pilot to Chancellor, was 
sent to make further search for the northeast passage and the 
mouth of the Obi. 

He reached the strait between Nova Zembla and Vaigat's 
Island, now known as Kara Gate, or Strait, but was driven 
back by the ice and so returned to England. 

At this time it was thought that the promontory forming 
the eastern cape of the Gulf of Obi was the northeastern 
corner of Asia and that accordingly Nova Zembla and Kara 
Strait were remote about 400 miles from the eastern shore 
of Asia. The distance, however, is about 2,700 nautical or 
3,100 statute miles, extending through 130° of longitude, more 
than three-fourths of which lie above the 70th degree, north 
latitude. 

Efforts to solve the problem of a northeast passage were 
now abiindoned for nearly a third of a century and 

NEW VOYAGES TO THE NORTHWEST 

followed the publication of Sir Humphrey Gilbert's "Discourse 
to Prove a Passage by the Northwest to Cathaia" in 1576, the 
first of the three voyages being undertaken the same year by 
Frobisher, who had spent fifteen years pleading with the mer- 
chants and nobility of England to provide the necessary funds. 
With three small barks, the largest of not over thirty-five 
tons burden, he set sail from London, soon losing the smallest 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 37 

vessel, which was sunk in a storm with all on board. The sec- 
ond ship returned to England, Frobisher continuing on alone 
till at last he reached the coasts of Greenland and Labrador. 
After coasting among the Savage and Eesolution Islands for 
some time, he went ashore on the mainland called by him 
"Meta Incognita," i. e., the "Unknown Boundary," now the 
southern peninsula of Baffin Land, and established friendly 
relations with the Eskimos of the region. He attained C3° 
north latitude and entered the strait which he named in his 
own honor. Keturning to England with a quantity of 

SUPPOSED GOLD ORE. 

he soon enlisted the avarice of his countrj^men in a second 
enterprise, and the following year. May, 1577, set sail in three 
goodly-sized vessels. Retarded by the ice at the entrance of 
Frobisher Strait, he took aboard 20.0 tons of the lustrous stones 
and put about for England. 

Public avarice the next year equipped another expedition, a 
fleet of fifteen vessels being placed under Frobisher's com- 
mand. With these he, for a third and last time, encountered the 
ice of the Meta Incognita, one of his largest vessels being 
crushed by an iceberg at the entrance of the strait, and forty 
lives lost, while the entire fleet was damaged by the irresisti- 
ble ice-floe. These mishaps caused the abandonment of the 
project to establish a 

MILITARY COLONY 

of 100 picked men among the blubber-fed natives of this gold- 
strewn region, and our fortune-seekers all returned to Eng- 
land, carrying with them for 3,000 miles 500 tons more of the 
"precious ore," all of which was now found to be but "worth- 
less stone." 

Ten years later, the greatly chagrined Frobisher redeemed 
his name from a probably obloquy by his signal service in the 
contest with the Spanish Armada, in 1588. 

Once more was the long-coveted northwest passage 
sought for, this time from the Pacific side. Having sailed 



38 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

through the Straits of Magellan on his voyage round the world, 

SIR FRANCIS DRAKE 

turned northward, plundering the coasts of Chili and Peru 
en voyage, hoping to discover the looked-for passage, sailed 
to latitude 48° north, or to the Strait of Juan de Fuca, now 
on the northwestern boundary of the United States. Failing 
in the realization of his hopes, he proceeded southward to the 
present location of San Francisco, named the country New 
Albion, and returned to England in 1580 by the way of the 
Cape of Good Hope, thus being the first Englishman to cir- 
cumuaviagte the globe. 

Next on the list of Arctic heroes, comes Davis, who, in 1585, 
with two vessels christened the "Sunshine" and "Moonshine," 
of fifty and thirty-five tons respectively, sailed to Greenland, 
which he very appropriately called the 

LAND OP DESOLATION. 

On August 6th he arrived at a point called Sukkertoppen, sail- 
ing whence farther northwest to latitude 66° 40' he found the 
land free from "the pesters of ice, and ankered in a very fair 
rode." 

After exploring the region of Cumberland Sound and the 
entrance to Frobisher and Hudson's Straits he returned to 
England. He thought that he had discovered the entrance to 
a sea communicating with the Pacific Ocean. 

Curiously enough, "to cheer and recreate the spirits of the 
natives," Davis took with him on this expedition a 

BAND OF MUSIC, 

the fame of which spread far and wide among the Eskimos, 
who in their kyacks surrounded the vessels listening to the 
strains of never-before-heard music and exchanged valuable 
furs for glass beads and other trinkets. 

Well does the writer recollect, having been commissioned 
by Lieutenant Peary to obtain walrus meat from the Eskimos 
at Noxami, on Inglefield Gulf, in the spring of 1894, to have 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 39 

been questioned by these same people concerning "the kind 
of music had in America." 

Giving in explanation, by gesture and voice, a decidedly 
barbarous imitation of a "string band," ever thereafter and 
wherever met, these 

FUN-LOVING CREATURES 

would demand a re-performance of "Rup-pe, tup, tup, rup-pe 
tup tup, rup-pe tup, tup, tup, tup," "John Brown's Body," etc. 
These, at any rate, were the favorite "airs" of old Kio-gwee-toh, 
"mine host" at Nox-am-i and pretended nol-li-gock-soak, or 
chief of the tribe. 

Davis' second voyage, undertaken in 1586, with two more 
vessels, the "Mermaid" and "North Star," resulted in the dis- 
covery of the strait which bears his name. Reaching Green- 
land, in latitude 64°, he sent two vessels northward on the 
east coast while he proceeded along the west coast as far as 
69°, The ice was unusually massive and one field • required 
thirteen days to -pass. The cold winds froze the ropes and 
sails to such an extent that the sailors were led to complain 
that "by his boldness he might cause their widows and father- 
less children to give him bitter curses." 

ikfter making additional exploration of the Cumberland 
Sound region and engaging in a 

CONFLICT WITH THE ESKIMOS, 

during which three of his men were slain and two wounded, he 
returned to England. 

Davis, writing to a friend, stated that he had reduced the 
discovery of a northwest passage almost to a certainty. His 
third voyage, in 1587, was prosecuted as far north as Sander- 
son's Hope, in latitude 72° 12'. This point was within a half 
degree of Upernavik and was so called in honor of his chief 
patron. 

The vessels of the expedition were four in number and 
fitted out with the express condition that expenses were to 
be lightened by stopping to fish wherever practicable. Two 



40 THE &EARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

of the ships were therefore detailed for this purpose upon 
arriving off Greenland. 

The geographical results of the expedition were ver}^ im- 
portant. 

Once more the question of a northeast passage wa» pro- 
pounded, this time by the Dutch. In 1594 a number of the 
leading merchants of Ilolland fitted out three vessels under 
command of Cornelizoon, Ysbrantzoou and Barents. Pre- 
viously they had established trading-posts at Kola, in Lap- 
land, and at Archangel, in liussia. These would afford 
bases of supplies in case of retreat. Owing to the failure of 
the English to pass Kara Strait the^^ determined to try also 
the passage north of Nova Zembla. This was partly due to 
the suggestions of Peter Plaucius, a distinguished theologian, 
astronomer, and nautical adept of the day. Arriving at Nova 
Zembla, the vessels parted compan}^ one, under Barents, keep- 
ing west of the island, proceeded north, while the other two 
continued east and south until they arrived at the "Wind-hole," 
or Yaigat's Strait, the southernmost portion of Kara Strait, 
formed by a narrow but dangerous lane of water separating 
Yaigat's Island from the mainland. This, with great difficulty, 
they passed and thereupon entered with 

UTMOST DELIGHT 

a vast expanse of blue open sea. The land on their right 
receding rapidly to the southeast, they supposed themselves off 
the northeast extremity of Asia and not over 400 miles from 
Canton, China. Deluded men! The}^ had but entered Kara 
Gulf, and one-third the circumference of the globe — the entire 
north coast of Siberia — lay yet before them to Bering Strait, 
which a century and a half of almost superhuman effort would 
be required to reveal. In their jo}^, and 

FULL OF PATRIOTIC ENTHUSIASM, 

they turned homeward, meeting with Barents on the way, the 
old ice-master being not a little chagrined at not being able 
to share in the exultant demonstrations of his companion 
officers. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 41 

He had, however, been quite as successful, for, having 
rounded Cape Nassau, Nova Zembhi, on the 10th of July, he 
fought his way through the perilous ice to the Orange Islands, 
to the north of Nova Zembla, in latitude 77° early in August. 
The determinations of latitude made by him were very pre- 
cise for those days. 

The following year, 1595, witnessed the departure of a fleet 
of six vessels laden with 

WARES FOR THE EASTERN MARKET, 

a 3'acht accompanying as far as Kara Strait that tidings might 
be brought home announcing the successful arrival of the fleet 
in the recently-discovered "sea." But, 

"The best laid schemes o' mice and men 

Gang aft a-gley, 
And lea'e us nought but grief and pain 
For promised joy." 

Massive ice rendered Vaigat's Strait impassable and the ex- 
pedition dejectedly returned home. In command was James 
\'an Ileemskerke, with Barents as pilot. Again, the next year, 
159G, was a third expedition of two vessels sent out, Heems- 
kerke commanding one, while Barents once more acted as pilot. 
Passing the Shetland and Faroe Islands, they were met by 
the drifting ice on June 5th, but on the 11th made land, which 
they named 

BEAR ISLAND. 

because there they had killed a bear. On this voyage they 
killed two more of them, measuring, the one twelve feet, the 
other thirteen feet, in length, and weighing probably not less 
than 1,800 pounds each — the largest on record. Continuing 
northward, they on the 19th 

DISCOVERED SPITZBERGEN, 

supposing, however, it to be a part of Greenland. Of this 
island they explored a considerable of the west coast till 
stopped by the ice, whereupon they returned to Bear Island. 
Here the vessels separated, Heemskerke and Barents push- 



42 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

ing on through the ice to the west coast of Nova Zembla, then 
known as Willoughby's Island, where they arrived July 16th. 
Cape Nassau was doubled on August 6th and, some days 
later, the Orange Islands. Attaining the same latitude as 
made by Barents on his first voyage, the expedition was com- 
pelled, by reason of ice, to retreat southward along the east 
coast of Nova Zembla, where they finally became 

ICE-LOCKED 

in a small harbor, latitude 75° 43'. Says De Veer, mate of the 
vessel and historian of the voyage: "The cakes of ice began 
to pile up around the ship on all sides, and pressed against it 
so closely that it commenced to crack and give way, and it 
seemed as if the vessel would break into a thousand pieces; 
and wdien the ice moved it pushed and raised the ship. as if 
some huge machine were elevating it in the air." This 

PERILOUS SITUATION 

compelled them to effect a landing and provide winter-quar- 
ters on shore. The ocean currents are not always cruel, for 
here they had deposited an abundance of drift-wood, doubt- 
less brought from Siberia. More of this was discovered float- 
ing on a stream about nine miles in the interior, and alto- 
gether the seventeen men were able to provide for them- 
selves a 

WARM LOG CABIN , 

and ah abundance of firewood. To the top of the strmcture 
was erected a chimney, while near the central fireplace was 
reserved a place for a sick comrade. Around the walls were 
arranged their bunks and from a large cask they took frequent 
baths. 

Their food consisted of provisions transported from the 
ship. Although they had seen tra.cks of the bear and the 
saiga, a species of the antelope, they do not appear to have 
secured any of these animals for their larder. On the 23d of 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 



43 




BARENTS' HOUSE, NOVA ZEMBLA. 
(Exterior View.) 




BARENTS' HOUSE, NOVA ZEMBLA. 
(Inteiiur View.) 



44 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

September, a month or more before the disappearance of the 
sun, 

THE CARPENTER DIED, 

being the first to succumb "to the rigors of the climate." The 
ground was frozen so hard at this time that they "could not 
dig a grave" and were compelled to bury him in the cleft of a 
rock. 

De Veer writes: "We look pitifullj^ one upon the other, 
being in great fear that if the extremity of cold grew to be 
more and more we should all die there of cold, for that what 
fire soever we made, would not warm us." 

Their cabin was soon covered with snow several feet deep 
and they were obliged to tunnel their way out. During a 
wind storm the fire refused to burn for four days and the ice 
formed two inches in thickness upon their bunks, while their 
clothes were covered with frost. 

BEARS AND POXES, . 

too, annoyed them, threatening to tear the roof from the house. 
The foxes learned to descend the inside of the chimney and 
several were trapped, their flesh being used for food. Several 
bears also were shot and the furs of these and of the foxes 
afforded very acceptable clothing. In fact no other material 
could have been so servicable. 

Through ignorance and prejudice they failed to use the 
wholesome bear's meat and consequently suffered from attacks 
of scurvy. 

Early in December, during a storm which blew violently 
and with intense cold from the northeast, they made a rousing 
fire of coal brought from the vessel. Having closed every 
crevice — even the chimney — to retain the heat, they were 
soon seized with dizziness and must have suffocated had not 
one succeeded in opening the door and another the chimney. 

On January 5, 1597, the eve of "Twelfth Night," long cele- 
brated throughout Europe, they 

MADE MERRY. 

as says De Veer: "We prayed our Master that we might be 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 45 

merry, and said that we were content to spend some of the 
wine that night which we had spared, and which was our 
share (half a pint) eveiw second day, and whereof for certain 
days we had not drunlv. And so that night we made merry, 
and drew h)ts for king. And thereof we had two pounds of 
meal, whereof we made pancakes with oil, and every man 
had a white biscuit whjch we sopt in the wine. And so sup- 
posing that we were in our own country, and amongst our 
friends, it comfDrted us as well as if we had made a great 
bancjuet in our own house. And we also made trinkets, and 
our gunner was made king of Novaya Zemlya, which is at 
least 800 miles long, and lyeth between two seas." On Jan- 
uary 24th the 

SUN REAPPEARED 

and there was accordingly bustle and stir in the little en- 
campment. However, the death of one of their number on the 
same da^- caused them sadness. Fine weather came with the 
2Stli and they played a game of ball in the open air. Early 
in March the sea ice began to move. On the 15th of April 
they inspected the ship and found it in better condition than 
was anticipated. On May 20th, however, the 

VESSEL WAS ABANDONED 

and by the middle of June they took leave of their late resi- 
dence, trusting themselves to the two ship's boats, and in a 
short time rowed to Orange Island. Before starting, Barents 
enclosed a record of their misfortune in a gun barrel and 
fastened it to the chimney of the house. 

When but four days out their frail crafts were caught be- 
tween enormous pans of ice and, abandoning all hope of saving 
either boat or -life, they took leave of each other. De Veer, how- 
ever, grasping a strong rope at one end, sprang from pan to 
pan until he had reached a very large one on which they finally 
succeeded in getting first the sick, then the provisions and last 
of all, the boats. 

Here, on the 20th of June, while drifting northward with 



46 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

the ice, on the west coast of Nova Zeiiibhi, the brave and 
wortliy 

BARENTS DIED, 

together with one of the sailors, Nicholas Andrieu. The death 
<)f Barents, although apparently not unexpected to himself, 
was so to his men. His remains were committed to the sea. 

"The death of William Barents," says De Veer, '^made us 
all feel \evY sad, seeing that he was our principal guide and 
pilot, and one in whom we had every confidence. But we 
could not resist the will of (U>d, and this thought made us 
calm." 

Proceeding in their greatly injured boats they kept them 
from sinking with the utmost difficulty. Upon reaching Cape 
Nassau, in hauling the larger boat ashore, she was upset and 
they lost nearly all their ])rovisions. Again putting to sea 
on July IDtli, they arrived at the southern point of the island 
on Jul}^ 28tli. Shortly afterwards the boats became sepa- 
rated in a fog and did not again meet till their arrival at the 
entrance to the White Sea. During this interval of separa- 
tion their stock of provisions was generously increased by 
the Kussian fishermen whom they occasionally met, and thus, 
by strict self-denial, they were enabled to reach Cape Kanine. 
They had been out 104 dajB since leaving their winter quar- 
ters. Fortunately they were here picked up by the other ves- 
sel from which the}- had been separated thirteen months pre- 
vious, and conveyed thence to Kola, where Ryp, the commander 
of the vessel, had first been informed of the arrival of the ship- 
wrecks at Cai^e Kanine. From this point the thirteen sur- 
vivors were conveyed by the same vessel to Amsterdam, where 
the}^ were received with great demonstration and entertained 
at the expense of the city till they received the money due 
them. Heemskerke was slain in a naval battle with the Span- 
iards ten j'ears later. 

In 1602 the English resumed the search for the northwest 
passage. The expedition safely reached the entrance to Hud- 
son's Baj^, but being driven back through the strait by a violent 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 47 

storiu, the coiiiiuaiKler, Captain Weymouth, returned to Eng- 
land without achieving further distinction. 

The next 3^ear the English, under the patronage of "the 
worshipful Francis Cherie," sent a small vessel, the "God- 
speed," to the Arctic Ocean on a voj-age of discovery. On the 
voyage northward the expedition disposed of a cargo of goods 
at Kola, the Dutch trading station in Lapland, and then pro- 
ceeded to Bear Island, the name of which was changed to 
Cherry Island. The latitude was determined to be 74° 30'. It 
will be recollected that hei'e nine years before Barents killed 
a bear. This time, the commander, Bennet, found foxes. In 
a second voyage nuide to the island in 1004, he found it cov- 
ered with wild fowl and walruses. The ivory tusks of the 
walrus being very valuable, an attempt was made to secure 
a return cargo. This was done b}^ cruelly blinding the crea- 
tures with small shot and then maiming them with hatchets. 
Out of a thousand thus tortured they killed but fifteen. 

The third expedition, in 1605, was better equipped, and 
succeeded in getting a large quantity of blubber boiled into 
oil, in addition to a cargo of teeth. In 1600 Bennet collected 
in two weeks three hogsheads of teeth and twenty-two barrels 
of oil. 

Again, in 1008, he was on this same island and in seven 
hours the crew 

KILLED ONE THOUSAND WALRUSES. 

A pair of these monstrous brutes was taken alive to England, 
the male being exhibited at court, "where the king and many 
lionorable personages beheld it with admiration for the 
strangeness of the same, the like whei'eof had never before 
been seen in England. Not long after it fell sick and died. 
As tlie beast in shape is very strange, so it is of strange docili- 
ty, and apt to be taught, as by good experience we often 
proved." 

In 1609 five English ships were here at one time, all loading 
with furs, oil, and walrus teeth. When it is remembered that 
tlie walrus frequently weighs a ton and has tusks two feet in 



48 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

length it will not seem incredible that they were able to 
secure such vast quantities of oil and ivory. 

THREE LEAD MINES 

were also discovered on the island. The weather during the 
latter part of June is described as being calm, clear, and about 
as warm as in England at the same period. This is owing to 
the influence of the Gulf Stream. 

The dream of a northwest passage again disturbed the 
peaceful rest of England, and the Muscovy Company, in 1600, 
sent out a small vessel of fortj^ tons burden under the com- 
mand of the brave and competent John Knight. The middle 
of June found him in stormy weather with frightful north 
winds and huge masses of ice driving the ship upon the 
rocks of Labrador. With rudder carried away and hull 
much injured, he welcomed refuge in the first inlet. Here he 
made repairs and examined the stores and provisions. 

On June 2Gth, Knight, in company with his brother and 
one of the seamen, crossed the inlet. 

A SAD FATE 

awaited them. When last seen they had climbed a hill, and 
just before passing down on the opposite side waved their 
hats in token of parting to those on board. In vain did the 
.boatmen await their return. In vain through all the dark 
night did the crew fire off their muskets, call long and loudly, 
and blow the trumpets. 

Unfortunately bad weather prevailed and the ice prevented 
searching parties from being sent out. 

On the night of June 28th, however, knowledge of their fate 
came to hand. They were themselves attacked b}' about fift^' 
savages who surrounded the ship in their canoes. Athough 
but eight in number, the men were aided in their defense and 
ejisuing offense by a large mastiff which had been the com- 
panion of their voyage. 




(1.) Winter Traveling On Great Slave Lake— Lt. Back. (2.) Trout Fall, Sep- 
tember, 1819— Lt. Hood. (3.) From Mori?an's Rock, Hill River, September 19, 
1819-Hood. (4.) Making Camp, March, 1820— Back. (5.) A Buffalo Pound, Feb- 
ruary, 1820- Back. (6.) Interior of a Cree Indian Tent, March, 1820. (iSee Chapter VI.) 




(1.) Ah-kai-tclio and Son— Hood. (2.) Crossing Lake Prosperous, May 30, 
1820— Hood. (3.) Marten Lake, 1820— Hood. (4.) Discovery of the Coppermine 
River, September 1, 1820-Hood. (.">.) Fort Enterprise, May 13, 1821 (Snow Melt- 
ins)— Back. (G.) Kas-kar-rali, Copper Indian (juide and His Daughter "Groan. 
Stockiugs"— Hood. (See Chapter VI.) 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 49 

The natives became entangled in the ice and the volley's 
of musketry fired at them created havoc in their midst. 

CRIES, GROANS, AND LAMENTATIONS 

made the night hideous. These savages were small of stature, 
tawny, slightly built, quite beardless, and had flat noses. 

Fearing another attack from increased numbers, the men, 
with rudderless ship and being compelled to keep constantly 
at the pumps, put to sea. Through favoring currents and hard 
work at the oars at the end of three weeks thej arrived at the 
island of Fogo, off the northeast coast of Newfounland — a 
rocky islet which the writer distinctly recollects as having 
been pointed out to him b}^ the lamented Captain Bartlett, 
then commanding the "Falcon," on the wa}^ to St. John's, New- 
foundland, from Anniversary Lodge, North Greenland, Sep- 
tember 12, 1894. 

Being assisted b}' the fishermen in repairing their vessel, 
they set sail for England, where they arrived September 24th 
of the same year. 

Contemporaneous with the first permanent English settle- 
ment in America, made at Jamestown, Virginia, in 1(H)7, was 
also undertaken the first voyage ".toward China" by way of the 

NORTH POLE. 

More than three-fourths of a century previous to this, Kob- 
ert Thorne had indulged in dreams of attaining this point, 
but not until after commerce had first been established on 
more southern waters was this route attempted. Some mer- 
chants of London, being desirous of ascertaining a shorter 
and more direct way to the Pacific, secured a small vessel with 
ten sailors and placed in command 

HENRY HUDSON, 

who was not long in reaching latitude 73°, on the east coast of 
Greenland, and thence the northern point of Spitzbergen, in 
latitude 80°. With strenuous efforts this sage of the sea 
pushed his staunch little ship to 81° 30' of latitude — a record 



50 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

which remained imbrokeu for nearly two centuries and a quar- 
ter, or until Parry, the prince of polar ice, attained in the same 
region in 1827, 83° 45'. The next year on a 

SECOND VOYAGE 

he folloAved the course taken by Barents by way of Nova Zem- 
bla, but, in latitude 72° 25', was compelled to turn back on 
account of the ice. His third voyage, made in 1G09, was, first, 
an attempt to push through the ice b}'- way of the famous 
northeast passage, failing in which he, secondly, immediately 
sailed for (ireenland and Davis' Strait in search for the north- 
west passage; but, being driven southward, he touched the 
western world in the region of Nova Scotia and thence explored 
the coast as far as Chesapeake Bay, on the return voyage dis- 
covering and exploring nearly- to the present site of Albany^ 
the noble stream modestly named by him North River, but 
now rightly called Hudson in his honor. It now remained for 
Hudson to make his fourth and last sad voyage. 

On April 17, 1010, in a ship of but fifty-five tons burden and 
with but six months' provisions, he left London, and, passing 
the Shetland and Faroe Islands, on the 11th of May sighted 
Iceland, Here they witnessed old Hecla, the noted volcano, 
in the glory of an eruption. Landing, they'' bathed in one of 
the outflows of the great geyser, the water of which they found 
hot enough to bctil a fowl. In four days they were in the great 
ice-barrier off Greenland. Saj^s Hudson: "This d-dj we saw 
Greenland perfectly, over the ice; and this night the 

SUN WENT DOWN DUE NORTH, 

and rose north-northeast, so plying the fifth day, we were in 
«)5^" liounding Cape Farewell they met with large num- 
bers of whales in the vicinity of Cape Desolation. From this 
}>oint they pursued a west-northwest course, hitting upon, by 
the last of June, Resolution Island, discovered in 1576 by Fro- 
bisher, and thence continued through the strait now bearing 
his name to the vast inland sea, or bay, also called in his honor. 
Having discovered the great body of water on St. Michael's 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 51 

Day, the 29tli of September, Hudson uamed it Micliaelmas Bay. 
It will be remembered that Sebastian Cabot had previously 
explored the bay in 1517. 

The six months for which the ship was x3rovisioned had 
now nearl}' elapsed, but in the three weeks which remained 
of the allotted period they might have reached England vritli- 
out inconvenience. The majority on board already believed 
that the South Sea had been reached and the coveted noith- 
west passage found. They seem to have been desirous of 
making their escape before being completely hemmed in by 
the ice. Hudson, however, was of an adverse opinion and 
went into winter-quarters. By the 10th of November they 
were complete!}' frozen in and about the same time the 

GUNNER DIED. 

The men quite naturally attributed his untimely end to the 
obstinacy of the commander and were growing in discontent- 
ment. Provisions were now so nearly exhausted that in spite 
of additions made hj hunting they were reduced to very short 
rations. The hope — the fascination — of success — of liuding 
an outlet to the Pacific and consequently to a more genial 
clime, probably induced Hudson to remain until escape became 
impossible. He 

ERRED IN JUDGMENT 

and brought upon himself the sad, sad fate which he hardly 
deserved. Had he known to a certainty and in season that 
^here was no other passage to a better climate, as, for example, 
in going from the north of Greenland or Spitzbergen to the 
pole, no other avenue of escape than by retracing his course, 
the case might be viewed in a different light. Even had he 
returned to England by the end of the six months for which 
the expedition was provisioned no blame could have been at- 
tached to him. On the contrary, he would have been praised 
foi' great prudence. 

In spite of persistent efforts to replenish their larder by 



52 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

hunting and fishing and by bartering with the natives, spring 
found these poor men on the point of 

ACTUAL STARVATION. 

This, following an all winter's allowance of short rations, 
may in a measure exonerate the men for the mutinous feeling 
then generally prevalent among them. Had unforeseen acci- 
dent and not deliberate calculation been the cause, the case 
would be different. 

At last Hudson decided to leave James' Bay and return to 
Englaud by the way he had come. Before starting he doled 
out what remained of the provisions, a loaf of bread to each 
man, and five cheeses to be divided equally among them. 
What with these and eighty fishes caught soon afterwards, 
they might have lived two weeks longer, on short rations. The 
boatswain, frenzied with hunger, consumed his allowance in 
one day, and was, in consequence, sick for some time. 

On the 21st of June, Hudson, as he came on deck, was 
seized and securely bound by three of the disaffected ones 
and, with his son John, the six invalids, and the carpenter, 
John King, 

INHUMANLY PLACED ADRIFT 

in the ship's boat, and was never again seen or heard of. 
Standing to sea, the mutineers in a few days were driven upon 
the ice by a storm and held prisoners for two weeks. 

By the last of July they were in Hudson's Strait. On one 
occasion, six of the men having landed for the purpose of 
shooting fowl, they were unexpectedly attacked by the 
Eskimos and four of the six either killed outright or died of 
their wounds shortly afterwards. Others died on the voy- 
age, and all suffered great privations. Finally reaching 
Bantry Bay, on the southwest coast of Ireland, they were 
enabled, by the assistance of fresh seamen, to reach England. 

Robert Billet, or Bylot, mate and acting master of the ves- 
sel on her arrival, and Habbakuk Pricket, historian of the 
voyage, were the only two to present themselves before the 
authorities, the others concealing themselves in obscurity. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 53 

While Hudson and companions were thus starving in the 
northwest, the English were pushing their vessels 

DIRECTLY POLEWARD 

by way of Spitzbergen. The command of an expedition in this 
direction, in 1610, was entrusted to Jonas Poole, with these 
instructions: "Inasmuch as it hath pleased Almighty God, 
through the industrj^ of yourself and others, to discover unto 
our nation a land lying in eighty degrees toward the North 
Pole, we are desirous not only to discover farther to the north- 
ward along the said land, to find whether the same be an island 
or a main, and which way the same doth trend, either to the 
eastward or to the westward of the pole; as also whether 
the same be inhabited by any people, or whether there be an 
open sea farther north than hath been already discovered." 

In this Yojage Poole attained latitude 78°. The following 
is an interesting part of his report: "A passage may be as 
soon attained this way by the pole as any unknown way what- 
soevei', by reason the sun doth give a great heat in this cli- 
mate, and the ice that freezeth here is nothing so huge as I^ 
have seen in 73°." 

In 1611 Poole again went northward, being accompanied 
by the first English ship ever intended expressly for whaling. 
Leaving this on the "whaling-grounds," he advanced north- 
ward to 80° and then steered westward, exploring the east 
coast of Greenland, two degrees farther north than had ever 
been charted. Upon returning to the vessel he found that 
the crew had caught thirteen whales, and they, then joined 
company to England. 

Once more, in 1612-13, Poole made a voyage to the 

"SEA OP SPITZBERGEN." 

Here he found at least twenty whaling-vessels, Dutch, French, 
Spanish, Biscayan, and English, one of them being in command 
of William Baffin, soon to be noted as an able Arctic navigator. 



54 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

In 1613 the crown of England quietly and peaceably took pos- 
session of the island and contiguous sea. 

THE SEARCH FOR HUDSON, 

undertaken in the year 1612, led to further geographical 
knowledge of Hudson Ba}^, but to no new information concern- 
ing the abandoned navigator and his invalid companions. 
Pricket and Bylot, of Hudson's unfortunate party, accom- 
panied the expedition, which was placed under command of 
Sir Thomas Button, then a leader of thought in England, but 
who, though well-versed in the history of northern research, 
lacked ilw }>ractical experience and insight of Bylot. 

Enters n,<4' Hudson's Ba}^, Button reached Southampton 
Island, ;:ailiiig thence westward to the west coast, in latitude 
60° 40', named by him '^ Hopes Checked" — doubtless because 
the unbroken shore-line (piite dispelled his ambitious faith in 
the existence of the northwest passage in that region. Pro- 
ceeding southward, he discovered the bay now known by his 
name, and, on August 15th, Nelson River, near the mouth 
of which he spent the winter, during which period some of the 
crew died from the effects of intense cold. In the spring 

GAME ABOUNDED, 

and more than 21,000 "white partridges," or ptarmigans, were 
secured by the crews of both vessels. Had hunting parties 
been despatched early in the fall an ample supply of fresh 
meat and warm furs would doubtless have been obtained and 
no deaths occurred. To this day even, game is "unimaginably 
abundant" in those regions. In 1894, the late Professor Tyr- 
rell, of the Canadian Geological Survey, explored a large por- 
tion of the unknown lauds lying to the west of Hudson's Bay. 
In this treeless region he found that "over an area of three 
square miles or more, the reindeer were so thick as almost com- 
pletely to shut out from view the ground." 

In April, 1613, Button left winter quarters and, sailing 
northward, discovered Mansfield's Islands, in 65°. He then 
sailed to England, crossing the Atlantic in thirteen days from 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 55 

Cape Chidley, the northernmost point in Labrador, He was 
still of the opinion that the Northwest Passage led from Hud- 
son's Bay, seeming to eliug to the conviction with as much 
pertinacity as did Hudson himself, and "ravished the public 
with the whistling of his name," notwithstanding the wiser 
counter-belief of the less influential Bylot. But it required 
"generations" for the public mind to accept this. 

In 1605 the Danish Government sent out an exploring ex- 
pedition to search for the old Norse colonists, but when in 
latitude 69°, near the present site of Christianshaab, the crews 
of the three vessels rebelled, necessitating the return of the 
expedition. The next year the government sent out another 
squadron of four ships to search for gold and silver mines in 
Greenland. On both of these voyages the celebrated Captain 
James Hall served as pilot. Of the second expedition he wrote 
that they "landed to see the silver mine, where it was decreed 
we should take in as much as we coirld." When in latitude 
66° 25', or almost on the Arctic Circle, they kidnapped live 
Eskimos and carried them to Denmark. 

In 1607, when on another cruise to Greenland, still under 
Danish auspices, he was compelled to return owing to the 
mutiny of his crew. 

Six years later, in 1612, Hall, accompanied by Baffin, in 
the employ of the Muscovy Company, revisited the place 
whence he had stolen the natives in 1606. Neither his ap- 
pearance nor his treachery had been forgotten. Attacking 
him suddenly, one of the Eskimos dealt him such a thrust with 
his spear that 

HALL DIED 

shortly afterward, and the expedition returned to England 
under command of Baffin, a man well versed ^ in the nautical 
science of the day and who, by observing the heavenlj' bodies 
during this voyage, was the first to indicate a new method of 
determining the position of a vessel at sea. 

As stated in considering Poole's voyage to the "sea of 
Spitzbergen," Baffin was in command of one of the whaling- 
vessels. Here again he gives evidence of his wonderful pow- 



56 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

ers of observation iD noting tlie extraordinary refraction of 
the atmospliere in high latitudes and the quality of which he 
determined to be twenty-six minutes at the horizon. "I sup- 
pose," he characteristically remarks, "the refraction is more 
or less according as the air is thick or clear, which I leave for 
better scholars to discuss." 

The notion of a northwest passage leading from Hudson's 
]>ay seems to have fallen as an inheritance from Sir Thomas 
Button directly unto his kinsman. Captain Gibbons, a mem- 
ber also of the search-voyage of 1612. 

Arriving at Hudson's Bay in 1G14, Captain Gibbons was 
harassed by violent winds, dense fogs, and treacherous ice, 
comi)elling him to return without accomplishing anything of 
note. 

In 1011 also, Fotherby and Baffln pushed northward but 
were compelled to return after reaching 80° In 1G15 Fotherby 
again tried the rftute directly poleward, but was unable to 
get beyond Spitzbergen. During the same year the northwest 
passage was essayed by waj' of Hudson's Bay, then supposed 
bv some to be a gulf or inland sea communicating directlv 
with the great South Sea. So confident of success were the 
promoters of this voyage that instructions were given to bring 
back a Japanese. The expedition was led by Bylot and Baffin, 
and resulted in Captain Bylot's report antagonizing the theory 
of Button, and the opinion of the public generally. 

Again, in 1616, these careful and skillful navigators, with 
a crew of but fourteen men and two boys, pushed through 
Davis'- Strait, meeting with icebergs whose height above the 
surface of the water they computed to be 240 feet and length 
below at nearly 1,500 feet, and, entering a vast expanse of 
water, 

DISCOVERED BAFFIN'S BAY, 

which, owing to the peculiar trend of the western coast of 
Greenland, they judged to be land-locked on the north. Smith, 
Jones, and Lancaster Sounds, which they entered on the north 
and west of the bay, they thought to be mere smaller bays, 
or inlets, opening into the large one just discovered, instead 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 57 

of being straits leading to larger bodies of water farther north 
and west. 

And now, in 1619, were the Dutch, under the liberal pat- 
ronage of the broad-minded Christian IV. of Denmark and 
Norway, to try for the famous northwest passage. By the 
Tth of September, two vessels and sixty-five men had safely 
passed through Hudson's Strait and were in winter-quarters 
in Chesterfield Inlet, off the northwest coast of Hudson's Bay. 
An able navigator, Jens Munk, was in command. Bears, hares, 
foxes, partridges, and other wild game were secured in great 
abundance during the fore part of the winter. The men, how- 
ever, were superstitious and attributed every unusual occur- 
rence as an omen of evil. The intense cold caused such an 
expansion of the brandy, wine and beer as to cause the casks 
to burst. To prevent the loss of the liquor they drank to 
excess, and this, with the low state of their supplies at this 
period, brought on disease. 

Wild fowl still abounded, but the men were unfitted for 
obtaining any. Before the end of May, 1G20, 

WTNE, BEER, AND SCURVY 

had killed sixty-two of the sixty-five men. Munk and two 
seamen alone survived. Bemoving the snow, they obtained 
roots, grasses and other herbs with which they relieved the 
scurvy. Gaining strength they dragged their bodies to a 
stream, where they obtained a wholesome supply of fish. No 
longer soaked with alcohol, they were able to kill birds and 
larger animals and in time to refit the smaller vessel. They 
then set sail and arrived in Norway by the last of September. 

This inordinate use of spilt liquor reminds the writer of an 
occurrence and resulting conversation had with an Irishman 
during our travels in the western portion of Ireland in 1885. 

Though perhaps foreign to the matter of Arctic narrative, 
we give it as a truthful illustration of "history repeating it- 
self," in part at any rate, and what mioht be the consequence 
to Limerick were she to send her indulgent sons to winter in 
Arctic regions. 



58 HE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Here is the incident: One day in passing a large brewery 
located on the Shannon, at Limerick, an Irishman called our 
attention to a portion of wall forming a large whisky vat that 
had recently bursted. Said he: 

"The liquor rin al' over; it filled al' the sthrates an' the 
Shannon; but, be gorry, it loike to filled the cimiturry, too." 
Asked to explain, he continued: "Yer honur, sur, the liquor 
what sthood in holes an' pools 

"HUNDREDS 0' POOR DIVILS 

sucked up wid quills; it was too sthrang fur 'em entoirely, sur, 
an' they loike to doid. The poison o' the sthuff, sur, wouldn't 
o' got out o' it in siven yairs." 

For a quarter of a century Captain Luke Fox had, as he 
quaintly puts it, been "itching after northern discovery ever 
since 1600, when he wished to have gone as mate to John 
Knight." The sorrow^ful fate of that brave man did not cure 
the "itching" and so, in 1631, he was given command of an 
English ship and sent to search for a northwest passage. 
Before sailing, the King provided him with a letter of instruc- 
tions, a chart of the regions previously discovered, and a 

LETTER OF INTRODUCTION 

to the Emperor of Jajjan, for that priucipalit}- was considered 
to be near the also-supposed-unremote "New Albion" (Cali- 
fornia) and South Sea of Drake. 

Reaching Salisbury Island, latitude 63° 27', in Hudson's 
Strait, he noted the sluggishness of the needle and ascribes 
it to "the sharpness of the air interposed between the needle 
and the attractive point." On an island which he discovered 
in the northwest part of Hudson's Bay he found a burial- 
ground of the Eskimos. With their dead they had deposited 
bows, arrows, and darts, many with iron heads, and a single 
one with copper. 

Later, he found the cross erected by Sir James Button on 
the Nelson River. Here he fell in with the vessel of Captain 
James, also on a search for the mysterious highway. Fox 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 59 

shortly afterwards set sail for England, where he arrived Oc- 
tober 31st. Having noticed that the tiow^ of the tide in Roe's 
Welcome, in the northwest portion of Hudson's Bay, sets in 
from the north, and that there are also found many whales, 
he maintained that he had been near to the oft-searched-for 
passage to Japan. 

Fox wrote an account of his voyage and makes grateful 
acknowledgment that he had "not lost one man or boy, nor 
any manner of tackling, having been forth nearly six months; 
all glory be to God." Apologeticalh'- of his book, he writes: 
"Gentle reader, expect not here any flourishing phrases or 
eloquent terms; for this child of mine, begot in the northw^est's 
cold clime, where they breed no scholars, is not able to digest 
the sweet milk of rhetoric." 

Rivaling London in her efforts to solve the location of the 
northwest passage through the agency of Fox, the city of 
Bristol had likewise equipped a vessel of seventj^ tons under 
command of Captain Thomas James. He, too, was furnished 
with a letter of introduction to the Emperor of Japan. 

The crew consisted of twenty-two active, solber, and unmar- 
ried young men who had never before nmde a voyage to those 
regions. The wise forethought of Captain James had pro- 
vided the vessel with everything needful, the supply of 
provisions being for eighteen months. At the entrance to 
Hudson's Strait they battled incessantly for five days to keep 
the huge icebergs from crushing the ship. In gratitude for 
their narrow escape they named a place of refuge which they 
at last found, "Harbor of God's Providence." More than once 
again the 

TERRIBLE ICEPACK 

crunched against the sides of the vessel and made her tremble 
from prow to stern. At another time during a gale the anchor 
slipped and, in again catching, the sudden shock hurled eight 
of the men from the capstan with such violence that all were 
injured, the gunner having a leg so badly crushed that it was 
necessary to amputate it in order to save his life. 

Proceeding down the western shore of the bay, meeting 



60 THE SEARCH FOfl THE NORTH POLE; 

with Fox in the vicinity of Nelson River, thej entered the 
water since called in honor of the navigator, James' Bay. 
Here they discovered and named Weston and Eoe islands, in 
latitudes 52° 45' and 52° 10' respectively. On another island, 
named by them Charlton, nearer the head of the bay, thej 
established winter-quarters. 

Here they cut a large suppl}^ of wood for fuel and erected 
a hut. The island was thoroughly explored to ascertain if 
there were any savages. None were found, although traces 
of their former habitation existed. On October 14th a deer 
was shot and carried twelve miles to camp. A few days later, 
one of the men, while out on a hunting and exploring trip, 
broke through the ice and was drowned. November 12th 

THE HUT TCOK FIRE, 

but they were able to save it, and afterwards kept regular 
fire-watch. The gunner, whose leg had been amputated in 
consequence of the fall from the capstan, died on the 22d. A 
week later they scuttled and sunk the ship near the shore. 
They saved most of the provisions but lost their clothes and 
the medicine chest. In their extremity they 

PLEDGED THEMSELVES 

to be faithful to one another, to do their utmost for the com- 
mon welfare, and to be obedient to their commander, even 
unto death. 

During the first three weeks of December the crew were 
engaged in rescuing goods from the hold of the sunken ship. 
Three -more huts were constructed, and being covered with 
snow, they were made more comfortable. By the end of 
January the ground was frozen to the depth of ten feet. 
Knowing nothing of the infiuence of the Gulf Stream at that 
time, or of isothermal lines, they could not understand wh}^ it 
was so much colder than on a corresponding latitude in Eng- 
land. 

Frost-bitten and without shoes, their feet being wrapped 
in rags, they went into the forest to gather their daily supply 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 61 

of fuel. Disease, sores, and swellings placed two-thirds of 
them under the surgeon's care. Among these 

NOBLE FELLOWS 

none deserve greater praise than the carpenter, William Cole, 
a hero among heroes. After the scuttling and sinking of the 
ship it was deemed advisable to build a new boat, that, 
in case the vessel could not be recovered or should be found 
unseaworthy, they might effect their escape in a smaller craft. 
From the 10th of December to the 18th of May the ill and dying 
carpenter kept at his work till the last moment, leaving it in 
such shape that the men could have finished it. 

Four days later, however, they pumped the ship almost 
dry, and within three weeks entirely so and she again floated. 

Now followed busy preparations for departure. Ballast and 
provisions were again placed on board; memorial cairns, raised 
over the graves of their dead ; a cross was erected ; the one lost 
at sea recovered and interred with his silent comrades; a last 
visit paid to these lonely sepulchers, where morning and even- 
ing prayers were said ; and, finally, a record of past events and 
future intentions left by the Captain at the cross, upon which 
was inscribed the names of the King and Queen of England, 
with the added titles of New Poundland, and of "these terri- 
tories to New Albion." 

It may be here remarked that Captain James had enter- 
tained an idea of finding a passage leading from the head of 
the bay to the "River of Canada" — the St. Lawrence. 

Before leaving, this noble commander composed the follow- 
ing memorial lines: 

"I were unkind, unless that I did shed 
Before I part, some tears upon our dead; 
And when my eyes be dry, I will not cease 
In heart to pray their bones may rest in peace. 
Their better parte, good souls, I know were given, 
With the intent that they return to Heaven. 
Their lives they spent to the last drop of blood, 
Seeking God's glory and their country's good; 
And as a valiant soldier rather dies 



62 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

"Than yield his courage to his enemies, 
And stops their way with his hew'd flesh when death 
Hath quite deprived him of his strength and breath; 
So have tliey spent themselves, and here they lie, 
A famous mark of our discovery. 
We that survive, perchance may end our days 
In some employment meriting no praise; 
They have outlived this fear, and their brave ends 
Will ever be an honor to their friends. 
Why drop you so, mine eyes? Nay, rather pour 
My sad departure in a solemn shower. 
The Avinter's cold that lately froze our blood, 
Now, were it so extreme, might do this good. 
As make these tears bright pearls, which I would lay 
Tomb'd safely with you, till doom's fatal day; 
That in this solitary place, where none 
Will ever come to breathe a sigh or groan, 
Some remnant might be extant of the true 
And faithful love I ever tender'd you. 
Oh! rest in peace, dear friends, and — let it be 
No pride to say — the sometime part of me. 
What pain and anguish doth afflict the head, 
The heart and stomach, when the limbs are dead. 
So, grieved I kiss your gi'aves, and vow to die 
A foster-father to your memory." 

During- the entire mouth of July these heroic souls were 
tossed and driven about by wind and ice within James' Bay, 
and it was not till the close of August, after repeated escapes 
from storm and ice, that they were beyond the perils of Hud- 
son's Bay, nor till the 22d of October, 1032, having been har- 
assed by adverse winds to the very last, after an absence of 
seventeen months and five days, or very nearly the period for 
which Captain James had at the first provisioned his expedi- 
tion, that they once more dropped anchor in Bristol Harbor. 

Nearly midway between Spitzbergen and Iceland is the 

LONELY ISLE OF JAN MAYEN, 

discovered in 1611 by the sturdy captain of a Dutch whaler, 
Jan Maj^en by name, and for whom it was named. In about 
the same latitude as Hammerfest and within the tempering 
influences of the Gulf Stream, its winters are comparatively 
mild for the Arctic regions, and spring there returns at an 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 63 

early date. This, too, was early found to be a nursery for 
whales and was accordingly made the headquarters for the 
capture of those mammals. 

With August 26, 1633, seven men began a voluntary sojourn 
there till the return of the whaling fleet the following sum- 
mer. It does not appear that the cold was great until the 
19th of November, by which time the sea became frozen as far 
as could be seen. Three weeks of mild weather followed, when, 
on the 8th of December, the cold again increased, and for the 
next four months they shut themselves within their hut, 

IDLE AND INACTIVE, 

meanwhile living — dying rather — upon beer, brand^^, and salt 
meat. Notwithstanding that bear flesh was to be had, they 
allowed the scurvy to secure such a hold upon them that by 
the 3d of April but two of the seven could stand. In the lat- 
ter part of the month this record appears: 

"We are now reduced to so sad a state that none of ni}- 
comrades can help themselves, and the whole burden, there- 
fore, lies upon my shoulders. I shall perform my dut\^ as long 
as I am able, and it pleases God to give me strength. I am 
now about to assist our commander out of his cabin; he thinks 
it will relieve his pain; he is struggling with death. 

"The night is dark, and the wind blows from the south." 
April 23d he died. Three days later the survivors killed their 
dog for food. By the last of the month the bay was clear of 
ice and the sun shone brilliantly. 

The record of April 30th was the last made. Here ends 
the history of seven men who sacrificed their lives, not through 
the severity of climate, but through ignorance and lack of 
energy and forethought. 

IN BRIGHT CONTRAST 

with the foregoing events on Jan Mayen Island is the story 
of another little company of volunteers who spent nearly nine 
months during the same year on North Bay, latitude 80°, Spitz- 



64 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

bergen, and therefore uiue degrees farther north than the pre- 
ceding party. They were 

SEVEN OTHER DUTCHMEN, 

who, no sooner than the whaling vessels had left them, began 
to gather herbs, hunt the reindeer, whales, uorwhales, and 
wild fowls, and thus provide not only food but also healthful 
exercise, 

^'I'heu, on May 27, 1634, the fleet again arrived, every man 
was taken on board, not one having even been ill during their 
sojourn. 

Again were seven men left at North Bay before the return 
of the fleet homeward in 1634. With them was left an abun- 
dance of li(][uors and salt meat. But, lacking the energy and 
common sense of their immediate predecessors, the}'' failed to 
exercise and to lay in a su})ply of fresh meats. And so, begin- 
ning with January 14th, one by one thej^ died, until, at the 
arrival of the fleet in 1635, none survived. 

Less than thirtj^-five years later, a Frenchman, Grosselier 
by name, had penetrated through the wilds of Canada until 
he arrived upon the shores of Hudson's Bay. He believed 
that he had made a remarkable discovery, and at once has- 
tened to report the same to his sovereign, Louis XIV. of 
France. Deaf ears rewarded his pains. 

He then went to England, where his story resulted in the 
formation of the 

HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY, 

in 1670, with liberal charter privileges from King Charles II. 
It was believed that Grosselier and two English com- 
panions had discovered the northwest passage, and accord- 
ingly an expedition was once more sent to search for it in the 
name of the English monarch. 

CAPTAIN ZACHARIAH GILLAM 

was placed in command, and, sailing to the head of James' 
Bay, built, at the mouth of Rupert Biver, a small stone fort, 
thus establishing the first English settlement in the territory 





(1.) Eskimo Interincters, "Junius" and "Augustus"— Back. (2.) White Wolf 
(Hood), and View of 'Dog-rib Rock"— Back. (3.) Passing- Througli Port Lata on 
the Ice, .JunA 25, 1821— Back. (4.) Bloody Fall, July 17, 1821— Back. (5.) Midnight 
View of Arctic Ocean from Mouth of Coppermine River— Back. (G.) Doubling Cape 
Barrow, July 25, IBJl-Back. (See Chapter VI.) 






% /" 







(1.) Point Turn Again, August 21. 1821— Back. (2.) Canoe Broaching to Gale at 
Sunrise, August 23, 1821 -Hood. (3.) Landing in a Storm, August 23, 1821. (4.) En- 
camping and Gathering Tripe-de-roche, Barren Grounds, September 10, 1821. (5.) 
Falls of Wilberforce, 2oU feet high. (6.) Eskimos Pillaging the Boats— Back. (See 
Chapter VI.) 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. I6b 

of the HudsoD Bay Company, Passing an uneventful winter 
on Charlton Island, he returned to England without having 
made the great discovei\y that was expected from the reports 
of Grosselier, who accompanied him as suh-ordinate officer. 

A SAILOR'S YARN 

spun into the ears of the King's hjalrographer led not only that 
theorist but maiw of the foremost men of England into re- 
neAved belief that there could yet be discovered a northeast 
passage to Japan and the Mala^^ Archipelago. Charles II, 
and his brother, the Duke of York, afterwards James II., were 
among the converts. 

The story, related to Moxon, the hj^^drographer, by the pilot 
of a Greenland whaling vessel, is as follows: 

"Whereupon, his relation being novel to me, I entered into 
discourse with him, and seemed to question the truth of what 
he said; but he did assure me that it was true, and that the 
ship was then at Amsterdam, and many of the men belonging 
to her could justify the truth of it; and told me, moreover, that 
ihej had sailed two degrees beyond the pole. I asked him if 
they found no land or islands about the pole. He replied, 
'No; it was a free, open sea.' I asked him if they did not 
meet with a great deal of ice. He said, 'No; they saw no ice.' 
I asked him what weather they had there. He told me, 'Fine, 
warm Aveather, such as was at Amsterdam in the summer 
time, and as hot.' " 

Captain John Wood, a naval hero under Marlborough, easily 
persuaded the King and his brother the Duke to fit out two 
vessels, the "SpeedAvell," with sixty-eight men, and the "Pros- 
perous," eighteen men, for a voyage, following the old course 
of Barents, betAveen Nova Zembla and Spitzbergeu. The ships, 
under command of Wood, were proA^isioned for sixteen months, 
and loaded with merchandise for the elapanese market. 

Bounding North Cape, on June 22d, Wood sailed northeast 
till stopped by the ice in latitude 76°. Pie also concluded that 
Barents and all other navigators before him were mistaken 
in supposing land to extend beyond 80°, 



66 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Abaudoning bis eberislied idea, he turned his vessels west- 
ward, when, suddenl^^, while enveloped in dense fog, the ''Speed- 
well" 

WENT TO PIECES ON A ROCK, 

the men, however, with one exception, making good their 
escape to the shore — on the westernmost promontory of Nova 
Zembla. From the wreckage washed ashore they obtained 
provisions and wood for huts and fuel. Fortunately, a Aveek 
later, July 8th, the "Prosperous," having escaped dam- 
age on the rocks, returned in search of her companion vessel, 
and, taking on board the shipwrecked men, returned to Eng- 
land August 23, 1G7G. 

Forty-three years later, the Hudson Bay Company insti- 
tuted another search for copper and the northwest passage. 

The existence of a rich mine of this metal on the banks of 
a navigable river north of the company's headquarters, on 
the Nelson liiver, had been reported by the natives, and at 
length James Knight, eighty years of age, then at the head 
of the company's affairs, persuaded them to send him, "by 
(rod's permission to find out the Straits of Ainan, in order 
to discover gold and other valuable commodities to the north- 
ward." This old man, with two vessels in immediate command 
of George Barlow and David Yaughan, sailed in either the 
summer or autumn of 1719. But they never returned. All 
that has since been learned of their fate will be found in con- 
sidering the expedition of Hearne, a half century later. 

In 1722 a rescuing party under Captain Scroggs was sent 
to search for the missing ships. Sailing northward from 
Churchill Kiver, in Button Bay, they returned with no infor- 
mation save a confirmation of the report concerning the exist- 
ence of a copper mine "somewhere in that countrj^" 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD, 6? 



CHAPTER III. 

RUSSIAN ARCTIC VOYAGES. 

NotwitliHtanding the early aud repeated efforts of the Eu- 
glish and Dutch to discover a northeast passage, nothing ^Yas 
known of the Arctic regions of Siberia east of the Yeu-i-se-i 
even as late as the beginning of the seventeenth ceutu^3^ 
Doubtless before this time, adventurers in search of furs and 
game had penetrated far within the interior, but the accounts 
of the journeys thus made do not appear to be of authentic 
natures. 

As previously shown, it was not until the efforts of Chan- 
cellor, in 1554, to traverse that sought-for passage, that Russia 
was induced to take an interest in maritime enterprises by 
showing her a way of obtaining goods from West Europe and 
beyond, without having to receive them through her rivals 
and enemies, the Poles. 

THE FIRST ARCTIC VOYAGE 

made by the Russians was in 1646. This was by private ad- 
venturers, who coasted for two days eastward from the mouth 
of the Kolyma River. The main body of ice had grounded (m 
a shelving ledge of the coast, thus leaving a narrow channel of 
water between it and the land, in which they plied their small 
craft. Having met a tribe of Chook-chee Eskimos, articles of 
barter were exchanged, after the manner of the tribes of 
Africa and as described by Herodotus. The Russians first 
placed their wares upon the beach and then withdrew, where- 
upon the natives selected such as they desired, leaving instead 



68 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

a quantity of walrus tusks, which the adventurers gathered 
and carried home. Two years later, in 1648, 

DESHNEFF. 

a Cossack, left the Kolyma in command of seven vessels, four 
of which were soon lost. Beginning his account with the great 
cape of the Chook-chees, undoubtedly Cape East, Deshneff 
says: "It is situated between the north and northeast, and 
turns circularly toward the river Anadir. Over against the 
cape are two islands, upon which were seen some men of the 
Chook-chee nation, who had holes pierced in their lips, through 
which were stuck pieces of the teeth of the sea horse." These 
were evidently Alaskan Eskimos. 

Only one of the three remaining vessels succeeded in reach- 
ing the mouth of the Anadyr, which empties into the gulf of 
the same name, the other two having been either lost or left 
behind. It has been conjectured that an attempt was made 
to carry them across the promontor}-, a circumstance that 
would recall the transportation across the Isthmus of Panama 
of the first vessel launched upon the Pacific. Be this as it 
may, it is clear that Deshneff was the first to sail through 
Bering's Strait. His last vessel was wrecked, however, a little 
south of the mouth of the Anadyr, and the crew, consisting of 
twenty-five men, set out to return overland. Having wan- 
dered ten weeks through an uninhabited waste, they arrived 
ujjon the bank of a stream occupied b^' a small tribe of An- 
au-li, whom they at once exterminated. Their crueltj^, how- 
ever, resulted somewhat later in increasing their own suf- 
fering. 

Deshneff's discovery led to extensive traffic with the tribes 
north of Kam-chat-ka, but this was carried on mostly 
through the interior. A half century later, in 1696, the Rus- 
sian and Cossack merchant-adventurers plundered, under pre- 
text of taxation, the native villages farther south and along 
the course of the Kamchatka River. In the following year 
Vla-di-mir At-las-soff, a Cossack officer, bent upon the con- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 69 

quest of Kam-chat-ka, traversed the region between the Ir- 
kutsk and Anadj r rivers. 

He states, but upon what authority is unknown, that be- 
tween the Kolyma, and the Anadyr are two great capes, the 
more western of which — probably Cape North — could not be 
rounded by any vessel by reason of great quantities of ice 
to be found there at all times. 

The Kam-cha-dales were easily conquered. They are de- 
scribed as being smaller than the Chook-chees, with small 
faces and great beards, living, during winter, underground, 
but, during the summer, in cabins raised from the ground on 
posts, the entrances being reached by means of ladders. A 
few years later, 

STAD-U-CHIN 

left the Ko-ly-ma in order to explore by sea the great Cape of 
the Chook-chees. Before arriving there, however, he aban- 
doned his ship and proceeded to cross the isthmus at its nar- 
rowest part, leaving unexplored all that region lying next to 
Bering's Strait. 

Russia now being determined to complete the subjugation 
of the tribes in that section of Siberia, an embassy, the chief 
of which was 

PETER SIN POPOFF, 

was sent, in 1711, to require hostages of the Chook-chees. 
The demand was refused, and not until after a resistance of 
seven years did they formally submit at the Ilussian fort which 
had been erected at the mouth of the Anadyr. Popoif wrote 
an account, not only of the people conquered, but also of the 
Alaskans, from which it appears that no trees grow at Chook- 
chee "Nos", or Cape; that on the shore near the cape were seen 
vast quantities of walrus teeth; that the Chook-chees invoke 
the sun to guarantee the performance of engagements made 
by them; that some of them owned flocks of reindeer, thus 
compelling them to change their places of residence; that 
others, not possessing reindeer, lived on the coast on each 
side of the cape and subsisted upon fish and walrus; that they 



70 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

sometimes lived in "dug-outs," or habitations ]iollowed from 
the earth; that opposite to the cape was to be seen a large 
island, known to them as the "Great Country" — undoubtedly 
Alaska — whose inliabitants spoke a different language from 
theirs and wore in their eheeks, by way of ornamentation, 
pieces of walrus teeth, and who, like the Chook-ehees, used the 
bow-and-arrow. Popoff saw among the Chook-ehees ten pris- 
oners from "the (Jreat Country" thus decorated. He also 
learned that in winter this country may be reached in one 
day, traveling with reindeer and sledge over the sea ice, and in 
summer, in the same time with canoes, which are made of 
whalebone covered with seal skins. Half way between the 
cape and the Great Country was an island, either Clark's or 
t^t. Lawrence, from which, on a clear day, the Great Country 
could be seen. In making the journey fi-om the cape to the 
Anadyr, ten weeks, without storm or accident, were required 
by reindeer if made to draw a loaded sledge. At the cape, 
the only wild animals were wolves and red foxes; in the Great 
Country, there were to be found bears, sables, martens, otters, 
wolves, :ind man^y kinds of foxes. Popoff estimated the male 
adults of both coast and inland Chook-ehees at 2,000; those 
of the Great Country, (>,00t). He also learned that some of 
the latter possessed herds of tame reindeer. 

PETER THE GREAT'S INTEREST IN ARCTIC RESEARCH 

will be seen from his having, just prior to his death, specifically 
planned two expeditious for northern research. The first of 
these was to proceed from Archangel eastward through the 
ice (if the Arctic Sea and explore the north coast of Siberia. 
This, however, came to naught, owing to the besetment of the 
vessels. The second was to proceed overland to Kam-chat-ka 
and, having there built a vessel, to sail n(U'thward and ascer- 
tain tli(^ i^osilion of the American coast. Peter himself did 
not believe that there was a strait separating the two conti- 
nents. Ignorant of the vast eastern extension of Siberia and 
of the width of the Pacific Ocean, he was desirous of opening a 
way, through northeastern Siberia, to the rich European col- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 71 

onies of Central America. The person selected by the Czar 
as chief of the expedition was 

VITUS BERING. 

a Dane, born of Christian parents, at Horsens, in 1681. His 
father, Jonas Svendsen, held, for a series of years, several posi- 
tions of trust, while his mother, the second wife of Svendsen 
and whose maiden name was Anna Bering, was of a family 
who, in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, included a 
number of ministers and judicial officers. In worldly posses- 
sions, however, the parents were poor, as may be judged from 
the following extract of probate record of their estate: "We 
are old, miserable, and decrepit people, in no way able to help 
ourselves. Our property consists of the old dilapidated home 
and the furniture thereto belonging, which is of but little 
value." The share of this small property, which fell somewhat 
later to Vitus, amounting to but 140 rigsdaler, its legal pos- 
sessor transferred to his native town to be distributed among 
its poor. 

Inclination and force of circumstances urged young Bering 
to the sea. Upon his return from an East India expedition, 
in 1703, he met, at Amsterdam, the celebrated Cornelius Cruys, 
a Norwegian by birth, but at that time admiral of the Russian 
fleet. He had previously been assistant master of ordnance 
in the Dutch navy. Through him, Bering now, at the early 
age of twenty-two, entered the Ilussian fleet as a sub-lieuten- 
ant. His advancement there was steady and meritorious, un- 
til at length we find him, after twenty-one years of faithful 
service in the Czar's navy, at the head of the first of his great 
expe<litions, each of which is unique in the history of Arctic 
explorations. 

Peter the Great died January 28, 1725. Only four days 
before this event, one division of Bering's expedition had left 
St. Petersburg on its long journey. 

Bering followed on the 5th of February. His chief asso- 
ciates were: Another Dane, Martin Spangberg, lieutenant 
and second in command; Lieutenant Alexei Chirikoff, second 



72 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

lieutenant; Peter Chaplin, Messrs. Luskin and Patiloff, the 
cartographers; Messrs. Engel and Morison, the mates; Dr. 
Niemann, and Kev. Mr. Ilarion. Sailors, carpenters, sail- 
makers, bhicksmiths, etc., composed the principal subor- 
dinates. 

On March 10th the expedition arrived at Tobolsk, whence 
the journe}^ continued with rafts and boats on the rivers Irtish, 
Obi, Ket, Yenisei, Tunguska and Ilim, between which it was 
necessary to make tedious portages. Arriving at Ilimsk — on 
the Ilim — on September 29th, the expedition there spent the 
winter of 1725-6. Meanwhile, Chaplin was sent to Ya-kutsk, 
the capital of East Siberia, in order to make, ready for the 
more rapid transportation of the exj)edition thence to Ok- 
hotsk, whither he was to send a small party of ship-builders, 
who were to fell trees and begin the construction of a vessel; 
Spangberg, with a body of mechanics, was despatched to the 
Kut, where were constructed fifteen barges, each forty-five feet 
long and twelve wide, and fourteen boats, for river transpor- 
tation in the spring; while Bering himself sought information 
from the governor at Irkutsk concerning the climate and 
ph3^sical features of East Siberia, the modes of travel, the peo- 
ple, etc., of that comparativelj^ unknown country. 

Not until the middle of June, 1726, did the expedition reach 
Ya-kutsk, which at that time contained 300 houses. Thence 
to Ok-hotsk was 685 miles of rough, mountainous country, 
intersected by numerous deep streams without bridges. Tun- 
dras, swamps, and dense forests likewise hindered rapid prog- 
ress. Deep snows and temperatures of from 40° to 70° F. be- 
low zero exhausted horses, dogs, and reindeer. Scores of 
them perished. 

From Ya-kutsk the expedition advanced over the rough 
course in separate divisions: Spangberg, with thirteen rafts 
and 204 workmen, started on the 7th of July for Yu-domsk-ay-a 
Krest via tributaries Aldan, Maya and Yudoma, and thence 
across the ridge, for the Urak, which empties into the 
sea of Ok-hotsk; Bering himself started on August 16th, with 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 73 

200 of the 800 horses belonging to the expedition, and made 
the journey overhmd in fortj-live days. 

Ok-hotsk at this time contained onlj^ eleven huts and ten 
Russian families, who supported themselves by fishing. The 
entire month of November was therefore spent in felling trees 
and providing winter quarters for the expedition. At the 
same time Bering pushed forward vigorously the construction 
of the ship. 

Still, not all of the expedition had arrived. Spangberg, 
having been overtaken by winter on the Yu-do-ma, 275 miles 
southwest of Yu-domsk-ay-a Krest, there left the boats and the 
bulk of the provisions in charge of seven men, and was proceed- 
ing on foot with his command with what provisions they could 
carry on hand-sleds, toward Ok-hotsk, while Chi-ri-koff was 
somewhere far in the rear. 

Of the belated forces, Spangberg's fared the wT)rst. The 
temperature was so low that mercury remained congealed, 
and the snow^ soon attained a depth of six feet. This com- 
pelled them to abandon the sledges, and for eight weeks, be- 
ginning with November 4th, cold and famine followed con- 
stantly in their tracks. Straps, leather bags and shoes be- 
came their only food. Every man must have perished had 
they not providentially hit upon Bering's route, where were 
found a small quantity of flour and some dead horses, upon 
which they lived till relieved by parties despatched for their 
assistance. It was the middle of Januar^^, 1727, before Spang- 
berg's half-starved command arrived. Eighteen were on the 
sick list. The rear, under Chi-ri-koff, did not appear till mid- 
summer. 

From Ok-hotsk the entire party was transported across the 
sea of Ok-hotsk to the mouth of the River Bol-sho-ya, in the 
southwestern part of Kam-chat-ka. This was distant 650 
miles and was not reached by the entire command till the 4th 
of September. In the course of the month, a further advance 
of twenty miles was made to Bol-she-retsk ostrog, or "stock- 
aded post," on the Bol-shoya. It consisted of a simple log- 
fortress, with seventeen Russian dwellings and a chapel. 



74 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

From this poiut the natives were snmmened far and wide to 
assist in transporting tlie supi)lies during- the winter the re- 
maining oSd miles across the peninsula to the lower fort on 
the Kamchatka, twenty miles from its mouth, on the east coast. 
At that time the extent of the peninsula was unknown, and 
therefore no attempt was made to sail around its southern 
extremity. Upon arriving on the east coast, March 11, 1728, 
Bering found a settlement scattered along the banks of the 
stream, consisting of the fort, a church, and forty huts. A few 
Cossacks dwelt here, occupying huts built above ground, and 
while they did not always eat their fish raw, they were much 
like the natives in other respects. 

Fortunately, here were forests of larch, which afforded ex- 
cellent material for ship-building, and which Bering proceeded 
at once to use, the timber being drawn to the ship-yard by the 
dogs. The tar used was also prepared from the forests, but 
the cable, anchors, and rigging had been dragged nearly 2,000 
miles. 

On the 9th of July, the 

"GABRIEL," 

as the new ship was called, started down the river, and four 
days later her sails were hoisted. With "fish oil for butter, 
and dried fish for beef and pork, and salt obtained from the 
sea," the undaunted Bering, with his gallant crew of forty-four 
men, followed a course nearly all the time along the coast 
northward. On July 2Tth, at Cape Thaddeus, the sea was 
alive with dolphins, seals, sea-lions, and spotted whales. 

On August 8th, when in latitude 64° 41', eight native men 
^^ere seen rowing toward the "Gabriel," but feared to draw 
near. One of them, however, sprang into the sea, and, resting 
upon two inflated bladders, swam to the ship. By aid of the 
Koriak interpreters on board it was learned that the natives 
were Chook-chees; that they knew the Russians well; that 
the Eiver Anadyr lay far to the west; that the coast e.itended 



OR, LIFE IN THE GRE.xT WHITE WORLD. 75 

in the same direction, and that the ''Gabriel" would soon come 
in sight of an island. 

Bering gave the strangers some small presents and en- 
deavored to persuade them to come on board. Approaching 
the vessel they, however, suddenly turned and disappeared. 

Proceeding in a south-southeasterly direction, Cape Chu- 
kot-skoi was doubled on the 9th. Two days later (11th, ship's 
time; 10th, calendar's) an island was discovered, which Bering, 
in honor of the day, called St. Lawrence. At noon the latitude 
was 64° 20', and they were therefore in the strait separating 
Asia and America. By noon of the lJ:th the latitude was 66° 
11', or just above the Arctic Circle. High land appeared astern 
and by three o'clock high mountains were visible to the west. 
The "Gabriel" had passed the easternmost extremity of Asia — 
East Cape — in latitude 66° 6', and longitude 190° 21' East of 
Greenwich. AVhen, finalh', Bering's bearings on the same day 
were 67° 18' north latitude by 193° 7' east longitude, he 
turned back, in obedience to the instructions given him at- the 
beginning of the expedition. He could no longer see land, ex- 
tending toward the north in the same direction and had there- 
fore accomplished his mission. The next morning, in latitude 
66° 2', another island was discovered, and, in honor of the day, 
named Diomede. It was one of the two between which passes 
the boundary line between Russia and Alaska, the Russian 
being called Rat-man-off, or Im-ak-lit; the American, Kru- 
sen-stern, or In-gal-i-sek. 

After encountering a frightful storm, on August 31st, dur- 
ing which the cable broke and an anchor was lost, the vessel 
again reached the mouth of the Kamchatka, September 2, 1728. 
This was more than three and a half years since the expedition 
first left St. Petersburg, and it was a round five years before 
its leading members again arrived there. 

Onl}^ two months after his return from the first expedition, 
viz., on April 30, 1730, Bering laid before the admiralty a 
scheme which embraced (1st) the charting of, and the estab- 
lishing of commercial relations with, the American and Jap- 
anese coasts, and (2d) the charting, either by sea or land, of the 



76 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Arctic Coast of Siberia, from the Obi to the Lena. These 
propositions formed a basis of 

THE GREATEST GEOGRAPHICAL ENTERPRISE EVER UNDERTAKEN. 

Amoiig the suggestions relating thereto, Bering urged the 
importance of missionary work among the Ya-kuts, more 
integrity among the tax-gatherers, better discipline among 
the Cossacks of East Siberia, the opening of iron mines at Ok- 
hotsk, U-diak, etc. 

Two years elapsed, however, before the Russian Court, 
busy meantime with political intrigues, began the execution 
of these proposals. Bering was promoted to be Captain-Com- 
mander of the Russian fleet, a position ranking next below that 
of Rear-Admiral, and was also, in view of the hardships en- 
dured during his five years' absence, voted by the Senate an 
award of $750. This august body, the Academy, and the Ad- 
miralty each responding to the insatiable greed of the Empress 
Anna for the splendor and exterior lustre of culture, exerted 
themselves to make the undertaking as large and sensational 
as possible. Russia seemed to want the earth, and proceeded 
to transform her Bering into an Atlas, lie was made the 
chief of the triple expeditions east of the Ural Mountains — of 
the American, Japanese and Arctic — for all of which he Avas 
to provide provisions, transportation, and ships. Decree 
after decree riveted the burden more firmly upon his shoulders. 
He was directed to establish a dock-yard in an out-of-the-way 
port, to supply Ok-hotsk with more inhabitants, and to estab- 
lish there schools for elementary and nautical instruction; to 
establish ironworks at Ya-kutsk, Udiak, etc.; to transport men 
and horses to Udomsk-aya Krest, and to introduce cattle-rais- 
ing on the Pacific Coast. 

Not to be outdone by the Senate, the Academy, through 
the zeal of its young German members, Johann Georg Gmelin, 
the chemist, and Gerhard Friedrich Mtiller, the historian, aged 
respectively twenty-eight and twenty-four, imposed additional 
tasks. Besides the elder C.molin, physicist; Mtiller, historian, 
and La Croyere, astronomer, there accompanied this depart- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 77 

ment one surgeon, one interpreter, one instrument-maker, five 
surveyors, six scientific assistants, two landscape painters, and 
fourteen body-guards. For La Croyere's use there were trans- 
ported nine wagon-loads of instruments, which included tele- 
scopes thirteen, and fifteen feet in length. This '^Itinerant 
Academy" also carried a library of several hundred volumes, 
including scientific, historical and classical works, and others 
of light reading, such as "Gulliver's Travels" and "liobinson 
Crusoe," seventy reams of writing paper, an enormous supply 
of artists' colors, draughting material and apparatus. These 
gentlemen had not less than thirty-six horses, and on large 
rivers could demand boats with cabins. 

To move this "learned republic" from St. Petersburg to 
Kamchatka became one of the many duties assigned to Bering. 
Yet he had no authority over its members; they were willing 
to recognize it only when they needed his assistance. "If," 
says the historian Lauridsen, "it had been the purpose of the 
government to exhibit a human parallel to the 'happy families' 
of menageries, it could hardly have acted differently. In all 
his movements Bering was hampered by this academical dead- 
Aveight. The professors not only lacked appreciation of Be- 
ring's efforts in their behalf, but they also besieged him with 
complaints, made record of them and wound up — character- 
istically enough — with a resolution to prefer formal charges 
against him before the Senate." 

All told, the Academists of the expedition numbered be- 
tween thirty and forty men; the expeditionary force proper, 
about 570, consisting of Vitus Bering, commander; Spang- 
berg and Chirikoff, captains; eight lieutenants, sixteen mates, 
twelve physicians, seven priests, stewards, sailors, ship-car- 
penters, workmen, etc. Of these, 160 were assigned to duty in 
the Arctic division; the rest, in the Pacific. More than half 
of the officers, many mates, and all of the physicians were for- 
eigners. Most of the officers were accompanied by their wives 
and children. An absence of six years was intended. 

In order to expedite the movements of this almost ungov- 
ernable body, the Siberian authorities, many of whom were suf- 
6 



78 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

fering official exile, received instructions to make great prepa- 
ra lions. Tliej' were to purchase fish, cod-liver oil, and venison, 
construct magazines and light-houses along the shore of the 
Arctic, and despatch large transports to the Pacific. They 
were also to prepare for the founding of salt and iron works 
at Ok-hotsk, a smaller furnace at Yakutsk, and even a distil- 
lery on Kamchatka Peninsula. All these directions, how^ever, 
received no attention from the unwilling exiles, some of whom 
indeed constantly opposed, by hatred and falsehood, the ad- 
vance of the expedition. 

On February 1, 1733, the first start was made. Spangberg, 
with laborers and heavy marine stores, set out for Ok-hotsk. 
On the 18th of March Bering proceeded to Tobolsk, where he 
supervised the construction of the vessel for the Arctic expedi- 
tion. Meanwhile, the Academists lingered at St. Petersburg, 
and, in spite of Bering's requests for them to make haste, did 
not reach Tobolsk until January of the following year. From 
this point, on the 14th of Ma^^, 1734, the first Arctic division, 
numbering fifty-six men, under the efficient Lieutenant Ofzyn 
and First Mate Sterlegoff, stood up the Irtish for the Polar 
Sea. Four rafts with thirty men accompanied them as far as 
Obdorsk. 

On the 19th, Bering took his departure with the main com- 
mand and the Academists for Yakutsk, where, from October of 
that year till the last of June, 1735, he was busily engaged in 
building and equipping tw^o vessels for the second Arctic di- 
vision. These began the descent of the Lena on June 30th. 
One of them, the sloop "Yakutsk," Lieutenant Pront-chi-sheff, 
First Mate Chel-yus-kin, Surveyor Chekin, and about fifty 
men, was to proceed westwardly round the Taimur Peninsula 
to the mouth of the Yen-i-se-i; the other, the decked boat "Ir- 
kutsk;" Lieutenant Peter Lassenius, also a Dane and the oldest 
of Bering's lieutenants, with more than fifty men, was to fol- 
low the coast in the opposite direction to "Bering" (Chook- 
chee) Peninsula, and ascertain the relative position of Asia 
and America, and thence to sail southward to the peninsula 



OR, LIFE IN THR ORRAT WHTTTC WORT.D. 79 

of Kamchatka. Lasseuiiis was also to find the Bear Iskinds, 
otf the mouth of the Kolyma. 

After the departure of these vessels, Bering applied his 
energies to the Pacific division. Wharves, magazines, bar- 
racks, winter hnts, and scores of water crafts w^ere constructed 
along the river route to Ok-hotsk. At Yakutsk were estab- 
lished a furnace and an iron foundry, where the vessels were 
supplied with anchors and other iron, and here were received 
those other heavy supplies brought from West Siberia in 1735- 
36, and which were later sent to Ok-hotsk. 

To this port, as already noted. Lieutenant Spangberg had 
gone. Here the banished Major-General Pis-sar-jeff, then re- 
duced to a sort of harbor-master of the place, became his im- 
placable persecutor. The Dane, however, was not easil}^ over- 
awed, and in the autumn of 1736 declared that he would rid 
himself of the 

"OLD SCOUNDREL" 

and compelled him to fiee to Yakutsk. Here he, with others, 
continued to obstruct the progress of the expedition. 

Notwithstanding all difflculti^s, Bering continued during 
the next three years to advance the enormous stores — enough 
for six or eight vessels — toward the sea. First, down the Lena, 
then up the Aldan, Maya and Yudoma rivers, across the Stan- 
ovoi Mountains, and, finalh^, down the Urak to Ok-hotsk. In 
this work more than 1,000 men were employed. 

Meantime, in 1736, news reached Bering of the misfortunes 
attending the second Arctic division which had descended the 
Lena the year previous. Pron-chi-sheff had been obliged to go 
into winter quarters at 01-nek, while Lassenius, after reaching 
the mouth of the river, was likewise obliged to seek shelter a 
little eastward, in latitude 71° 28'. Here, during the winter, 
Lassenius, most of his officers, and thirty-one of the crew died 
of scurvy. A relief party despatched bj^ Bering found only 
eight men alive. To take their places Bering despatched Lieu- 
tenant Dmitri Laptjef, Second Mate Planting, and twenty- 
three men. Besides, he sent two boats with provisions to the 
month of the Lena and a ship-load to supply the magazines on 



80 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

the Arctic Coast. To this he gave his persoual attention. The 
survivors from the Irtish were taken to Yakutsk, where, says 
Bering, ''by the help of God they were saved." 

In the summer of 1737 Bering took up his headquarters in 
Ok-liotsk, which he and Spaugberg built, at the junction of 
the Ukhota and Kukhta rivers. Here they built a church for 
the expedition, barracks, magazines, a large dock-yard, and 
other structures. It grew to be the Russian metropolis on the 
Pacific. "The place," writes Bering, "is new and desolate. 
We have sand and pebbles, no vegetation whatever, and no 
timber, in the vicinity. Firewood must be obtained at a dis- 
tance of four or five miles, drinking water from one or two 
miles, while timber and joints for shipping must be floated 
down the river tweut^^-five miles." 

In this swampy place Bering lost his health. Concerning 
his position here the historian Sokoloft", likewise an officer 
in the Russian Navj^, says: "Bering stayed three years in Ok- 
hotsk, exerting-himself to the utmost in equipping expeditions, 
enduring continual vexations from the Siberian government — 
especiall}' on account of Pissarjeff — and conducting frequent 
examinations and investigations into the quarrels and com- 
plaints of his subordinates." 

With respect to Pissarjeff, Bering writes: "For a corre- 
spondence with him alone I might use three good secretaries. 
I find his foul-tongued criticism extremely offensive." 

Meantime, in 1738, Spaugberg, with three ships and 150 
men, discovered and partially charted the Kurile Islands, and 
in the summer of the following year, with four vessels, contin- 
ued "the work to Japan, thus making known for his country a 
route to that commercially important region. 

Meanwhile, too, the Arctic divisions were continuing their 
explorations. In the summer of 1737, Ma-Iy-gin and Sku-ra- 
toff crossed Kara Sea and sailed up the Gulf of Obi; while 
Ofzyn charted the coast between the Obi and Yenisei. The 
greatest results, however, were obtained by the two cousins, 
Dmitri and Chariton Laptjef, between the years 1738 and 1743. 
They, being newly equipped, attacked the task of doubling the 













(l.'t Interior of E~kimo Snow Hut, Winter Island, 1S22— Lyon. (2.) E^lvimos, 
1822— Lyon. (3.) Eskimo Watching for Seal— Lyon. (4.) Holding Line Wiien Wal- 
rus is Wounded— Lyon. (5.) Watching Seal— Lyon. (6.) Listening at Seal-Hole, 
also Striking at Seal— Lyon. (See Chapter VIII.) 






ni;"?^/ 







m-^ 




* 










t- 


"S 


^, '"-.r.. 






■it J 


™-<«^ 


'* '-Skx...'^ 






.- 





(1.) Entering Passagfi to Snow Hut— Lyon. (2.) Ar-na-nee-lia, Winter Island, 
1822— Lyon. (3.) Swan's Nest, June, 1822, f> feet 10 Indies lonj?, 4 leetO inches wide, 
2 feet deep, and buiJt of moss-peat. Hole 18 indies wide, containing 2 egtrs, each 
Bounces in weiglit, eggs of cream or brownish-white color and somewhat clouded by 
darker tinge -Lyon. (4.) Fall of the Barrow — Lyon. (5.) Summer Tents (of seal- 
skins) of Eskimos, Ig-loo-lik, 1822— Lyon. (6.) Eskimo of Ig-loo-lik, in Bird-skin 
Jacket— Lyon. (7.) Eskimos Sledging; the Leader of the Team being the "King'* 
Dog— Lyon. (See Chapter Vlll.) 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 81 

Taimur and Chook-chee peninsulas. Chariton, by extensive 
sledging trips, connected the coast westward from the Lena 
to that explored eastward from the Yenisei by Minin and Ster- 
legoff, while his mate, Chel-yus-kin, inl742, attained the most 
northerly point on the mainland of the old world, a headland 
since called in his honor. Concerning this event, says Mid- 
dendorf: "He is the only one who, a century ago, had suc- 
ceeded in reaching and doubling this promontory. The fact 
that among many he alone was successful in this enterprise, 
must be attributed to his great ability. On account of his per- 
severance, as well as his careful and exact measurements, he 
stands pre-eminent among seamen who have labored in the 
Taimyr country." 

Dmitri Laptjeff, as the immediate successor of Lassenius, 
charted the coast from the mouth of the Lena eastward beyond 
the mouth of the Kolyma as far as the Great Baranoft' Rocks, 
through a distance of more than thirty-seven degrees of longi- 
tude. But Cape Che-lag-skoi, whither Deshneff, a century 
previous had show^i the way, he did not succeed in doubling. 

Iveturning now to the movements of Bering, the summer of 
1740 found him in command of a respectable fleet of eight or 
nine vessels, all built by himself, in the harbor and on the sea 
of Okhotsk. 

Weighing anchor on the 8th of September, 1740, Bering 
sailed to Avacha Bsij, on the southeast coast of Kamchatka. 
Here a fort and a church were erected in the course of the win- 
ter, the pious Bering consecrating the house of worship to St. 
Peter and St. Paul, thus founding the town of Petro-paul-ovsk. 

Finally, from this port, after a prayer service, the ships 
again weighed anchor on June 4th, 1741. Of these, Bering 
was in immediate command of the "St. Peter," with seventy- 
seven men. Chirikoff was placed in charge of the "St. Paul," 
with seventy-six men. First taking a southeasterly course in 
search for the erroneously-supposed Gamaland, the vessels be- 
came separated on the 20th, never again to meet. 

For the next four weeks the "St. Peter" sailed northeasterly. 



82 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Bering's health was shattered and he was confined much of the 
time to his biinl\. 

At length, at noon on the 16th of July, land was sighted. 
It was an elevated, jagged, snow-covered coast, behind which 
a peak towered so high into the clouds that it was visible at a 
distance of seventy miles. It was the great St. Elias, w^hich 
Bering named in honor of the patron saint of the day, July 
20th, on which anchor was cast off the west coast of an island 
also called St. Elias. The towering peak ever stands as a 
monumental witness that it was Bering, who, from the west 
and traveling to the east, discovered America. 

A lauding was made upon St, Elias Island — now called 
Kyak — and a supj)ly of fresh water obtained. Here were 
also found hijman habitations, food, utensils, etc. In place of 
articles brought on board, Bering caused to be deposited an 
iron kettle, tobacco, a Chinese pipe, and a piece of silk cloth. 

Taking thence a southwesterly course along the Alaskan 
Peninsula, on the 30th of August, Shu-mag-in, one of the sail- 
ors, died in the hands of his mates, who were taking him 
ashore. The group of islands where the}'^ then were was 
named in his honor. 

The condition of all on board was most deplorable. Bering 
was too ill to stand. Others sick were carried ashore. The 
subordinate ofiicers, Waxel and Khitroff, quarreled bitterly, 
and nearly involved the entire expedition in ruin. Steller, the 
naturalist, alone remained composed, and, gathering anti-scor- 
butics, he fed them to the scurvy-stricken crew, in conse- 
quence, they grew better, Bering's health also greatly improv- 
ing. 

Sailing again on September 6th, adverse winds and storms 
almost constantly checked their progress. Half the crew be- 
came sick and no cooking was done for many days. Their 
only food was burnt ship biscuits. 

On the 6th of October, when in a frightful gale of hail and 
snow, Bering exhorted his men to make an offering to the 
church: the Russians, to the church at Petropaulovsk; the 
Lutherans, to the church in Viborg, Finland, where Bering 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 83 

had formerly resided. Among the men, death followed death, 
and the helmsmen were so feeble as scarcely to be able to walk 
to the wheel when conducted there by other sick companions. 

At length, on November 6, 1741, the vessel, without helms- 
man and with commander at death's door in his cabin, strand- 
ed on the most western of the two largest of the Commander 
Islands and which has been appropriately called in Bering's 
honor, for with its soil are mingled the ashes of the illustrious 
explorer. 

Shortly before the stranding of the "St. Peter/' twelve of the 
men liad perished, and soon thereafter nine more died. Hor- 
rible starvation stared them in the face. 

Having with painful difficulty effected a landing, those who 
were at all able to work began to collect drift-wood, to dig ancl 
to roof pits in which to live. In these efforts, Steller, the im- 
mortal German naturalist, was the ver}- soul of the entire 
party. For the sick and dying he was both cook and physician. 
The sick became so afflicted with scurvy that the gums, like a 
dark-brown sponge, slowly protruded and covered the teeth 
of the victims; while the dead were quickly devoured by foxes 
before they could be buried. 

It was December before the entire party were quartered for 
the winter in the miserable dug-outs. Bering sought in every 
way to inspire his companions with fresh courage and to place 
implicit trust in Providence for the future. He gave thanks 
to God for having directed his course from youth, and for hav- 
ing made his life successful. 

Nevertheless, his sixty years of age, the malignant ague 
contracted at Okhotsk, cold, hunger, scurvy, and grief at the 
fate of the expedition, bore heavily upon the brave old heart 
as it slowly pined away in the cheerless sand-pit. 

"He was, so to speak, buried alive. The sand kept contin- 
ually rolling down upon him from the sides of the pit and cov- 
ered his feet. At first this was removed, but finally he asked 
that it might remain, as it furnished liim with a little of the 
warmth he so sorely needed. Soon half of his body was un- 
der the sand, so that after his death, his comrades had to ex- 



84 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

huine him to give him a decent burial." He died on the 8th 
of December, 1741, 

Says Steller: "Sad as his death was, that intrepidity and 
seriousness with whicli he prepared to meet death was most 
worthy of admiration." And, again, Steller writes: ''Bering 
was a true and honest Christian, noble, kind, and unassuming 
in conduct, universally loved by his subordinates — high as well 
as low. Every reasonable person must admit that he always 
sought to perform the work entrusted to him to the best of his 
ability, although he himself confessed and often regretted that 
his strength was no longer sufficient for so difflcult an expedi- 
tion. He deplored the fact that the plans for the expedition 
had been made on a much larger and more extensive scale 
than he had proposed." 

The last death occurred January 6, 1742. In all, thirty-one 
of the seventy-seven men had died. The others were saved 
only through the abundance of sea and land life in which the 
region then abounded. 

To the faithful Steller, theologian and naturalist, is human- 
ity obliged — not only for his persistent efforts in drawing upon 
this life for his helpless comrades, but also for the scholarly 
descriptions of it, which have rendered the history of the sec- 
ond expedition immortal. In those classic pages one is made 
to pursue with wonder, among those desolate isles, the thou- 
sands of fur-seals, sea-lions, sea-otters, and eared seals; the 
hundreds of Arctic foxes, of which from sixty to eighty could 
be struck down in the space of two hours; and last, and prob- 
ably most interesting, the now-extinct sea cow, a ponderous 
animal, from twenty-five to thirty feet in length, weighing 
about three tons, and which fed in large droves upon the algae 
strewn along the strand. 

A quarter of a century later, Russian rapacity had utterly 
exterminated this valuable animal. 

In the ensuing summer, the surviving members of the ill- 
starred expedition effected their escape to Petropaulovsk in a 
boat, made from the timber of the stranded "St. Peter." There 
they learned of the return of the "St. Paul," under Chirikoff, 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 



85 



Avlio had succeeded in reaching the American coast, probably 
about 200 miles southward of the point reached by Bering. His 
men had also experienced great hardships, and twenty-one of 
them died. Among these was the astronomer La Croyere. 

The survivors finally, in 1745, returned to St. Petersburg, 
thus terminating the Great Northern Expedition, a pioneer 
venture for knowledge, science, and commerce. 




FRANKLIN RELICS. 



86 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



CHAPTER IV. 

ARCTIC VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN COOK, THE SCORESBYS, 
SIR JOHxN ROSS, AND OTHERS. 

ConteiiJitoraneoiis with tlie Freucli and ludian War, the 
Dorthvvest })assage was again sought for. lu the spring of 
1754, Captain Charles Swaine, leaving Philadelphia, Pennsyl- 
vania, in the American scliooner "Argo," in vain sought the 
waters of Hudson's Bay. The previous winter had been 
an unusually severe one, and other vessels bound for 
tlie northern whale fisheries were also turned back on ac- 
count of the ice. Swaine then directed his attention to a 
perfect exploration of the west coast of Labrador from its 
northern point, latitude about 00°, southward to latitude 54°. 
He found six ini}M)rtant inlets, but not a passage leading west- 
ward to Hudson's Bay as he had anticipated. He also col- 
lected informati(m concerning the soil, produce, and people of 
the country, and noted that a high mountain range, one hun- 
dred fifty miles inland, traversed the interior from north 
to south. On one of the inlets he found a deserted wooden 
house with a brick chimney. Shortly afterwards he met with 
a bark. Captain Goff, from London, who informed him that 
the house was built there the .year previous by some Moravian 
missionaries who had been landed there from the vessel which 
he was then commanding. But the captain and six of his men 
having been kidnapped by the natives, it became necessary, 
after more than two weeks' delay vainly awaiting the return 
of the men, for the missionaries to return with the remainder 
of the crew in order to work the vessel, Goff was then seeking 
information concerning the fate of the men. Swaine also dis- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. S7 

covered an excellent fishing-bank, extending three degrees 
southward from the fifty-seventh parallel and about twenty 
miles off shore. 

Concerning this expedition the following extract from a 
letter written by the versatile and philosophic Franklin will 
be of interest : 

"Philadelphia, February 28, 1753. 
* * * "I believe I have not before told you that I have 
provided a subscription here of £1,500 to fit out a vessel in 
search of a Northwest passage. She sails in a few days, and 
is called the "Argo," commanded by Mr. Swaine, who was in 
the last expedition in the "California," and author of a 
Journal of that voyage in two volumes. We think the attempt 
laudable, whatever maj^ be the success. If she fails, ^Maguis- 
tamen excidit ausis.' With great esteem, 

"Benj. Franklin." 
"Mr. Cadwalader Colden, N. Y." 

Again, in 1772, notwithstanding the troublous times in the 
American colonies, the northwest passage was looked for by 
Captain Wilder, commanding the brig "Diligence." The pro- 
moters of the enterprise were a company of private gentlemen 
of Virginia. The brig, after scouring the northern and western 
shores of Hudson's Bay, was driven back by the ice, and after 
ascending Davis' Strait to latitude 69° 11' returned to Virginia. 

A gallant young quartermaster of the Hudson Bay Com- 
pany at Fort Churchill, having explored the northern portion 
of Hudson Bay and made valuable improvements of the fish- 
eries in the same region, was thereupon despatched, in Novem- 
ber, 1769, to search for the reputed copper mines and the 
northwest passage. Rich specimens of the copper ore had 
been brought to Fort Churchill by some of the Indian traders 
and therefore this young officer, Hearne by name, with two 
white companions and some of the Indians set out upon 
the journey with great expectations. He had not pro- 
ceeded more than two hundred miles when supplies began 



88 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

to fail and the Indian assistants to leave him. Returning to 
the fort he again started on his journey in February, 1770, 
with five Indians alone. At the end of five hundred miles 
they began to suffer great privations. Hearne writes: "It 
was either "all feasting or ail famine. * * * ^ye have 
fasted, many times, two whole days and nights; twice, upward 
of three days, and once, near seven days, during which we 
tasted not a mouthful of anj^thing except a few cranberries, 
water, scraps of old leather, and burnt bones.'' 

Finally arriving in latitude 63° 10', and about eleven de- 
grees west of Fort Churchill, he proposed to winter among a 
friendly tribe of Indians. Unfortunatelj^ breaking his quad- 
rant and notwithstanding the terrible sufferings alread}^ un- 
dergone, he retraced his weary course to the fort, refitted, and 
once more set out on the 7th of December. Arriving on the 
banks of one of the Great Slave Lake series, he constructed 
a canoe and descended what is now" known as the Coppermine 
Eiver to its outlet. Coronation Gulf, into the Arctic Ocean, 
latitude 68° 30', "The Ocean," Hearne sa3^s, "was full of islands 
and shoals as far as I could observe with a good telescope." 

A sad scene in connection with this brilliant journey was 
the 

TORTURE AND MASSACRE 

of about twenty unsuspecting Eskimos by his Indian allies, 
and for whom the Indians of those regions cherish an invet- 
erate hatred. Says Hearne: "Finding all the Esquimaux 
quiet in their tents, they rushed forth from their ambuscade 
and fell on the poor unsuspecting creatures, unperceived till 
close to the eaves of their tents, when they soon began the 
bloody massacre, w^hile I stood neuter in the rear." Hearne 
was even unable to save the life of a young girl who had fled 
to him for protection, while an old woman was painfull}- mu- 
tilated by having her eyes plucked out before she was killed. 

Hearne was absent on this trip almost a year and seven 
months, arriving at Fort Churchill June 30, 1772. Three years 
later he was made Governor of the place. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 89 

Among the noteworthy discoveries made by Hearne was 
information, obtained from the Eskimos of Marble Island, in 
1769, concerning the 

FATE OF THE OLD GOVERNOR, 

James Knight, whose expedition we have previously m>en- 
tioned. From Hearne's account we glean the following: 

"When the vessels arrived at this place it was very late 
in the fall (of 1719), and in getting them into the harbor the 
largest received much damage; but on being fairly in, the 
English began to build a house, their number at that time 
seeming to be about fifty. As soon as the ice permittetd in the 
following summer (1720), the Esquimaux paid them another 
visit, by which time the number of the English was greatly 
reduced, and those that were living seemed very unhealthy. 
According to the account given hj the Esquimaux they were 
Yerj busily employed, but about what the}' could not easily 
describe; probably in lengthening the long boat, for at a little 
distance from the house there was now (1769) lying a great 
quantity of oak chips, which most assuredly had been made 
by carpenters." The account goes on to relate that 

SICKNESS AND FAMINE 

made such havoc among the English that by the summer of 
1721 but five remained alive. Meanwhile, the Eskimos had 
supplied them, as they were able, with seal meat and whale's 
blubber. Finally, of the five who remained alive, three ate 
so ravenously of raw whale's blubber after a prolonged fast 
during the absence of the Eskimos on the mainland, that 
they died. The other two lived a long time after this and 
frequently ascended a high rock and looked long and earnestly 
southward and eastward as if expecting the arrival of a ship. 
They would then sit down together and weep bitterly. 
At length one of the two died and his companion, in digging 
a grave for him, fell down exhausted and died also. The skulls 
and other bones of these two men were then (1769) lying above 
ground, close to the house. 



90 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

The last to die was, accordiug to the Eskimos, always 
working iron into implements for them. He was probably 
the armorer, or smith. 

Lying just beneath the Arctic Circle in the territorj^ con- 
tiguous to the northwestern portion of Hudson's Bay, is a 
river-like indentation. With its discovery, in 1742, by Cap- 
tain Middleton, the problem of the northwest passage was 
doubtless supposed to be settled. Its termination in an 
unpopulated district was soon determined, however, and al- 
though but a bay opening into Roe's Welcome, as the channel 
separating Southampton Island from the mainland is called, 
it bears the name of Wager River. 

Four j^ears later, Messrs. Moore and Smith, having also in- 
dulged in a "search" for the northwest passage, pronounced 
it "as chimerical as one of Don Quixote's projects." 

In June, 1773, Captain C. J. Pliipps, known later as Lord 
Mulgrave, with instructions to proceed to the North Pole, 
or as near to it as iDOSsible, on a meridian, found himself bound 
for Spitzbergen, where he arrived July 4tli. Five days later 
he had attained 80° 36', but on the 31st was stopped hj the 
ice. By August Ctli he had retreated to the Seven Islands, off 
the northwest coast of Spitzbergen, whence he returned to 
England in the following month. 

What schoolboy has not read of Captain John Cook and 
his tragic death while endeavoring to circumnavigate the 
globe? But how few, even among the best informed persons 
of mature years, are acquainted with the fact that it was the 
object of the great navigator to perform that voyage by way 
of the northwest passage? 

With explicit instructions to sail immediately to latitude 
G5° in the North Pacific, which would bring him well into 
Bering Strait, he was to endeavor to complete the circuit 
through some channel leading eastward from the Arctic to the 
Atlantic Ocean. 

Finely equipped, he sailed from Plymouth in July, 1776, 
and, a few weeks later, was joined at the Cape of Good Hope by 
Captain Clerke. December 12th he passed Prince Edward's 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 91 

Island, arriving at Kerguelen Land twelve days later. Hav- 
ing determined this to be an island and not a continent, as 
liad been supposed by Kerguelen, he renamed it the Island 
of Desolation. From this point the vessels continued east- 
ward 

THROUGH NINE HUNDRED MILES OF DENSE FOG, 

and separation was avoided only through the incessant sound- 
ing of signals. January 2G, 1777, found them in Tasmania, 
then called Van Dieman's Land, and on Februarj^ 12, in New 
Zealand. March 29th they were among the Cook Islands. The 
season was now so far advanced that Captain Cook now 
decided not to hasten farther north that year, and accord- 
ingly^ spent three months among the peaceful inhabitants of 
the Feejee and neighboring islands. The groups he collective- 
ly denominated the Friendly Islands. 

On August 12th he arrived among the Society Islands, lying 
about two degrees north of the Tropic of Capricorn, from 
which group he voyaged almost due north, until, at a point 
two degrees south of the Tropic of Cancer, on January 18, 1778, 
he discovered the 

WORLD-RENOWNED HAWAIIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 

These, in honor of John Montague, Earl of Sandwich, the 
chief promoter of the expedition, he named the Sandwich 
Islands. 

Sailing thence he arrived, March 7th, off the coast of the 
New Albion of Drake, in latitude 44° 33', a point on the coast 
of Oregon, nearly opposite Salem, the capital of the State. On 
Van Couver's Island, latitude 49° 35', he found the inhabitants 
clad in furs. They were friendly, and shrewd in barter, were 
acquainted with iron, but esteemed brass more highly and 
readily exchanged furs for the brass buttons on the men's 
garments. 

Ten degrees farther north Cook found the inhabitants to 
resemble, both in language and physical appearance, the Es- 
kimos of Hudson Ray. 

A narrow bay, now known as Cook Inlet, was discovered. 



92 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

and supposed to lead to the "Northern" (Arctic) Ocean, but, 
upon exploration, was found to terminate about two hundred 
miles within the interior. 

August lOtli Cook arrived at and named the northwestern- 
most point in America, Cape Prince of Wales, and measured 
the distance thence to the northeasternmost point in Asia, 
Cape East. This distance, he ascertained to be thirty-nine 
geographical miles, or somewhat more than forty-three statute 
miles. 

He landed, but did not long remain among the Chook-chees. 

Proceeding northward, he reached latitude 70° 44', where 
he was stopped at the edge of the impenetrable and expansive 
ice field, forty feet in thickness, and covered with 

A BLACK MASS OF V^ALRUSES 

as far as the eje could reach. 

Captain Cook then returned to the Sandwich Islands, ar- 
riving at Hawaii November 30th. Seven weeks now followed 
in circumnavigating and surveying this island, after which the 
vessels came to anchor and were visited by large crowds of 
natives. During the more than six months which the English 
spent here increasingly friendly relations existed between the 
men of the expedition and the islanders. Captain Cook con- 
gratulated himself that the failure to penetrate within the 
Arctic Ocean had nevertheless given him an opportunity of 
becoming fully acquainted with these, the most important 
islands of the Mid-Pacific. 

An additional supply of fresh provisions having been laid 
in, on- the 4th of September the vessels weighed anchor for a 
survey of the entire group. Unfortunately a storm arose and 
compelled their return in order to repair damage done to the 
"Resolution." 

Incidents now occurred which led to the 

HORRIBLE DEATH OF CAPTAIN COOK. 

A pair of tongs having been stolen from the smith's forge, a 
party of men were sent to recover the stolen property, but 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD: 93 

were roughly handled by a mob of the natives. Soon one of 
the ship's boats was stolen. 

Cook now took Te-ree-o-boo, the King, prisoner, as a host- 
age, for the good conduct of his people and the return of the 
missing projjerty. The King, accompanied by his two sons, 
peaceably submitted and accompanied Captain Cook to the 
shore. Here the natives endeavored to prevent the embarka- 
tion. Now it was that a most untimely accident 

PRECIPITATED A CONFLICT. 

A shot fired in order to prevent the embarkation of a native 
canoe killed Ka-ree-moo, one of the chiefs. The frenzied pop- 
ulace, putting on their war-mats and brandishing their knives, 
at once led to the attack. Cook restrained his men from firing 
until it was too late. Closely pressed by one of the savages. 
Captain Cook himself fired a musket charged with small shot, 
which only served to render his assailants more furious. The 
crew and marines now fired upon the mob, who crowded each 
other on so closely to the men that firearms were useless. In 
the turmoil four of the English were killed. 

Just as Captain Cook was endeavoring to reach the boat a 
native was seen to deal him a blow with a club and then 
to retreat precipitately. Dropping his musket and falling 
upon one knee, the Captain was in the act of again rising when 
one of his assailants stabbed him in the back of the neck. 
Falling into the water, the savage crowd endeavored to hold 
him down. Bravely he struggled and got his head above the 
crimson-colored surface, but was immediately pushed into 
deeper water. Once more he fought his way to the top only 
to be struck down for the third and last time. The unequal 
conflict over, the natives dragged his bod}^ ashore and muti- 
lated it in a most fiendish manner. 

Some time after this. Captain Clerke, then in command, re- 
covered the body, which was committed to the sea with the 
customary naval honors and amid the heartfelt grief of the 
crews. Captain Cook 

KNEW HOW TO COMMAND 

men; he cared for them and elicited their esteem and confi- 
7 



94 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

clence. His unselfishness secured in return the generous love 
of those whom he commanded. 

Leaving Hawaii, Captain Gierke passed northward through 
Bering Strait to latitude 70° 33', where ice was encountered 
twenty miles lower dow^n than on the year previous. Coast- 
ing southward along Kamchatka, Caj^tain Clerke died and 
was buried on shore. 

Captain Gore then assumc^d command and sailed to Canton, 
China, where the furs obtained from the Eskimos on the north- 
west coast of America two years before, were sold at great 
profit, some |10,000 being realized. This was the beginning of 
the fur trade of the Pacific. Captain Gore then sailed to Eng- 
land, arriving there October, 1780, after an absence of over 
four 3' ears. 

Step by step, that is, lake by lake and stream by stream, 
was the vast territory of the Hudson Ba,y Company explored 
by various trappers and traders. One of these, Alexander 
Mackenzie, setting out from Lake Athabaska in June, 1789, 
with a ]»aity of Canadians and Indians 

DISCOVERED THE MACKENZIE RIVER 

and followed it to its outlet into the Arctic Ocean, latitude 
68° 50'. From having seen several whales sporting on the ice 
they named the island on which they were encamped Whale 
Island. 

When, on July 3, 1721, with forty Danish families, Hans 
Egede, a zealous missionar}'^, arrived off the west coast of 
Greenland and established the settlement of Godthaab, in 
latitude 64°, the 

DANISH POSSESSION OP GREENLAND 

may be said to have begun. Notwithstanding Egede had spent 
his entire fortune and King Ferdinand IV. had assisted him 
with an annual contribution of f200 and the missionary board 
with |300 more, in his efforts to propagate the 

GOSPEL AMONG THE ESKIMOS, 

the Government, shortly after the death of Ferdinand, in 1730, 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 95 

took measures to break up the financially unprofitable colony. 
In 1733, however, largely through the efforts of the renowned 
Count Zinzendorf, founder of the religious community known 
as the Moravians, King Christian VI. was led to take a re- 
newed interest in the colony and among other good deeds 
he gave to it an annuity of |2,000, entrusting its proper dis-l 
posal to three of the Moravian brethren. The noble Egede"* 
returned to Denmark in 1735, where he died in 1758, aged 
seventy-two. During his sojourn in Greenland he had found 
the ruins of houses and churches, bespeaking the earlier pres- 
ence of the Norsemen, but he was unable to find among the 
Eskimos even a tradition of their former occupancy of the 
region. 

Captain Loewenorn, who visited the east coast of Greenland 
in 1786, was not more successful. 

THIRTY ARCTIC VOYAGES 

would seem quite enough for one man to make, but for the 
same man to have a son of precisely the same name to con- 
tinue the same perilous work in generally the same region, 
without startling accident to either, is quite "startling" in 
itself. It certainly bespeaks not only good seamanship but 
also good luck. Such is the history of 

CAPTAINS WILLIAM SCORESBY, 

Senior and Junior. The elder, at the age of thirty-one, made 
his first voyage to Greenland in 1791. In 1806 he made, in 
"Greenland Sea," latitude 81° 12', while still stretching into the 
unknown north was "a great openness, or sea of water." 
This was the "farthest north" yet made at that tinie, and by im- 
proving the opportunity of pushing on through the great "sea 
of water," he might have become known as the discoverer of 
the North Pole. Being on a whaling-voyage merely he did 
not feel at libert}^ to do so. In 1817 he touched upon the east 
coast of Greenland, above 70°, but did not land, although it 
was easy to have done so. On one of his later voyages, how- 
ever, he went ashore, and Scoresby Sound printed upon all 



96 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

charts is in honor of the event. He was a very successful 
whaling-master. On one voyage alone he is said to have ob- 
tained thirty-six whales. He died in 1829, at the age of sixty- 
nine. 

WILLIAM SCORESBY, JR., 

beginning a seafaring life at the age of ten under the ex- 
perienced eye of his father, was in command of a whaler — 
the "Resolution" — just before attaining his majority. When 
off Spitzbergen on one occasion, near Cape Mitre, he made 
the perilous ascent of a mountain overlooking the sea at the 
giddy height of 3,000 feet. When near the summit, the ridge 
was so narrow and the sides so precipitous that he was 

OBLIGED TO STRADDLE THE MOUNTAIN, 

as it were, and advance by working his hands and legs. 

On the east coast, he came upon large quantities of skulls 
and bones of foxes, seals, walruses, norwhales, and whales; 
also two Russian lodges, then recently inhabited, and the 
ruins of an older one. In the vast accumulation of rock 
debris at the base of the cliffs, the sea-birds, in great numbers, 
had built their nests. A species of green fly was seen. 
Shrimps and medusae were abundant in the water along the 
coast. He also found two species of one of the sub-orders of 
sea-weeds. From a 

DEAD WHALE STRANDED 

on the coast he obtained |2,000 worth of oil and blubber, not- 
withstanding its decayed condition. In its body was an har- 
poon which Scoresby judged to have been driven into the 
huge creature by the fishermen at the mouth of the Elbe. Es- 
caping, it had made its way through more than 1,500 miles of 
water before dying. 

In 1822, Scoresby made his eighteenth, last, and most im- 
portant voyage. This was to the east coast of Greenland, 
north of the region explored by his father. The name of 

SCORESBY'S LAND 

commemorates his geographical services in that region, while 




(1.) West Outlet of Fury and Hecla Strait, from West End of Arahorst 
Island. (2.) Eskimo Ice House, Is-loo-Iik, 182:^— Lyon. (3.) Tak-kee-lik-kee-tali, 
'—Lyon. (4.) Eskimos of Ig-loo-lik— Lyon. (5.) Eskimos of Ig-loo- 
(6.) Nak-ka-hu and His Wife, Oom-na— Lyon. (See Chapter VIII.) 



Is-loo-lik, 1823 
lik, 1823- Lyon. 





r~" 




(1.) Eskimos Building au Ig-loo, or Snow Hut -Lyon. (2.) Children Dancins;, 
Ig-loo-lik, 1823— Lyon. (3.) "Hecla" and "Fury" August 1, 1825— Head. (4.) Sail- 
ittg Through Young Ice— Hoppner, (5.) Southeast End of Southernmost of Prince 
Leopold's Islands— Head. (6.) Heaving Down the " Fury," August 18, 1825- Head. 
(See Chapter X.) 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 



97 




WM. SCORESBY, JR. FERDINAND VON WRANGEL,L,. 

EARLY ARCTIC EXPLORERS. 



98 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Roscoe Mountains, and Capes Lister, Swainson and Hope, in 
honor of Roscoe, poet, historian, law-giver and banker; Lister, 
optician and merchant; Swainson, celebrated naturalist; and 
Hope, distinguished writer — names all bestowed upon locali- 
ties discovered by himself, indicate the character of his home 
associates and the trend of his own mind. At each of these 
places he was able to see and describe much: mountains, ma- 
jestic and grand, 3,000 feet high; a rich Arctic flora; recently- 
abandoned Eskimo huts with ashes and charred driftwood 
still upon the hearth, while flocks of the now-extinct (?) great 
auk and other sea-fowls, and 

SWARMS OF MOSQUITOES, BUTTERFLIES, BEES, 

and other insects, and bones of hare, reindeer and dog, all 
bore testimony to the abundance of life beyond the seventy- 
first degree of north latitude. 

Scoresby also visited and studied the mist-enveloped Jan 
Mayen, with its seven great glaciers sweeping irresistibh' 
dow-n its sides to the water's edge, its volcano, and its Mount 
Beerenberg, more than a mile high, standing guard over its 
solitary isle as if warding it against the ceaseless attack of 
devouring ice. Returning to England, Scoresby 

BECAME A CLERGYMAN 

and was made a doctor of divinity in 1839. His interest in 
science led him to make valuable contributions concerning 
the hydrography, meteorology, and natural sciences of the 
Arctic regions. In the investigation of the application of ter- 
restrial magnetism to navigation he 

VISITED THE UNITED STATES 

in 1847, and Australia in 1853. He was always a warm ex- 
ponent of Arctic research au<l maintained that a voyage to 
the North Pole did not necessarily involve either great daugin' 
or difficulty. Every expedition, he urged, should go abundant- 
ly equipped, and be provided with sledges and boats to be 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 99 

able to overcome the difficulty of traversing tlie alteriiatiou 
of fields of ice aud lanes, or "seas," of water. His death oc- 
curred in England, in 1857. 

THE NINETEENTH CENTURY 

opened with great interest in Arctic matters. The English 
ministr}^, encouraged by the success of the iScoresbys, early 
resolved upon two geographical and scientific voyages. These, 
composetl of two vessels each, were fitted out in 1818. The 
first, under command of Captain David Buchan, was to search 
for a northeast passage. 

After sailing due north to Spitzbergen, thence east along 
its north shore, both vessels, the "Dorothea" and "Trent," were 
caught in a terrible storm on Jul}' 30th, off the northwest coast. 
The "Dorothea" was so greatly danmged by the ice that the 
hope of reaching Bering Strait was abandoned and Buchan 
returned to England with both vessels. Lieutenant, after- 
wards Hir John Franklin, was in command of the "Trent." 

The second expedition, consisting of the "Isabella" and the 
"Alexandria," under command of Captain John Ross, were in- 
structed to sail dir(>ct to Baffin's Bay, and then, if possible, 
to i)enetrate the ice of the Arctic Ocean to Bering Strait. 
Thus would the northwest passage be made to connect with 
the northeast route and the earth be circumnavigated, as it 
were, in Arctic ice. 

Having passed Upernavik, in latitude 72" 40', the northern- 
most Danish settlement, on the west coast of Greenland, as 
indeed the northernmost permanent white settlement hi tlie 
world. Captain Ross made a more accurate surve^^ of 
the coast embracing Melville Bay, than had previously been 
made. When about 200 miles farther on, in latitude 75° 54', 
and on the northern shore of Melville Ba}^, he 

DISCOVERED THE NORTHERNMOST PEOPLE IN THE WORLD, 

the descendants of whom — children, grandchildren and great- 
grandchildren — now comprise the famous Etah Eskimos of 



100 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Kane and Hayes, and whom the writer of these pages came 
to know personally and by name while in their midst as a mem- 
ber of the Peary Expedition to North Greenland in 1893-4, but 
eoncerning whom accounts following will be given. 

When first seen, this strange tribe became greatly alarmed 
at sight of the vessels and the English. For, although but a 
short distance from -the Danish settlements, they had never 
before seen or heard of other people than themselves and sup- 
posed that they were the only inhabitants of the earth. Know- 
ing nothing of wood, nor of the art of constructing canoes, they 
supposed both the ships and the people upon them to be 
supernatural beings, and, 

ADDRESSING THE VESSELS AS THOUGH ALIVE, 

inquired: "Who are you? and whence come jou, from the sun 
(shuck-ah-nah), or from the moon (ah-ning-ah-nah)?" 

Although these people knew nothing of wood, thej em- 
ployed iron in the manufacture of rude knives. The metal, 
they explained to Ross, was obtained from a mountain of the 
Melville Bay coast, and w^as secured by chipping or breaking 
off portions of a large slab or block. This is supposed to be 
of meteoric origin — a supposition quite probable since, as is 
well known to all meteorologists, bodies of such source fre- 
quently contain ninety-six per cent of iron in their composi- 
tion. Wliile at Anniversary Lodge the writer frequently dis- 
cussed the location of the stone discovered by Ross, the na- 
tives cheerfully conveying all desired information concern- 
ing it and holding themselves ready to point it out upon re- 
quest. W^e desired greatly to visit the locality, but the privi- 
lege was not accorded. Mr. Peary himself, however, made the 
coveted pilgrimage w^ith another companion, and, with the 
assistance of the natives, saw the precious stone. Ross also 
noted the curious 

CRIMSON-COLORED SNOW 

covering the cliffs of the northern shore of Melville Bay and 
carried samples of it to England, which, upon careful and oft- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. . 101 

repeated tests was found to be ordinary snow filled with a vast 
aggregation of a peculiar red-colored fungus growth. 

Whatever little Koss ma^- have done in the way of explor- 
ing the shores of Melville Bay — the "Hell Gate" of Arctic navi- 
gation in the Bahin's Bay region — it remained for Mr. Astrup, 
of Christiania, Norwa^^, our talented young comrade and com- 
panion of the Peary Expedition of 1893-4, to survey and chart 
completely, with the assistance of a single native, Kool-e-ting- 
wah, who, although employed as dog-driver and hunter, was 
nevertheless treated as a companion and friend. 

Leaving Melville Bay, Ross sailed past Wostenholm, Whale 
and Smith sounds, on the west and north sides of Baflfln's 
Bay, giving them scarcely a "passing notice," and then, south- 
ward, along the unobstructed west side of the bay, to Lan- 
caster Sound. This channel, fiftj' miles in width at its out- 
let, he ascended for about thirty miles, when, to the 

ASTONISHMENT AND DISAPPOINTMENT 

of officers and men, he turned back, although the way before 
him was clear for about twenty-five miles. Beyond this, a 
range of mountains seemed to terminate the sound — an ap-, 
pearance caused by atmospheric refraction and which prob- 
ably led Ross to the erroneous conclusion. He then sailed 
farther southward along the coast without giving it attention 
and entered Cumberland Sound, where he exhibited the same 
censurable indifference. He then returned to England. 

His failure lay in not taking advantage of the opportunities 
afforded by an unusually mild season. 




KNIFE WHICH HAD BEEN USED IN SKULI^SCRAPING. 



102 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



CHAPTER V. 

PARRY'S FIRST VOYAGE. 

Born in 1790, the same year that gave to the world the 
junior Seoresby, and in command of a vessel at about the same 
age, self-educated, and master of the nautical and astronomical 
sciences of the day, second in command of the lloss expedition 
in 1818 and among those who shared in the disappointments at 
its results. Lieutenant W. E. Parrj^, although but twenty-nine 
years of age, found himself at the head of another expedition 
in search of the 

NORTHWEST PASSAGE, 

a route of ocean-travel which he believed to be feasible and 
not to be despaired of finding till after a thorough exploration 
bf Lancaster Sound. According!}' on the 3d of July, 1819, we 
find his two vessels, the "Hecla" and "Griper," within the Arc- 
tic Circle, and in almost constant struggle with the ice of Baf- 
fin's Bay till on the 29th tlie}^ succeeded in getting into clear 
water on the west side. Here the line struck bottom at a 
depth of 1,8G0 feet and the whales were very numerous, eighty- 
two having been counted in one day. On the 31st they arrived 
in Possession Bay, near the mouth of 

LANCASTER SOUND, 

where the flag-staif deposited by Ross in the previous year was 
visited. The men's tracks were still fresh in the sand and' 
gravel and the flag-staff remained uninjured. An exploring 
party sent three or four miles into the interior to search for 
possible timber returned reporting the region treeless. The 
party saw, however, many ground-plants thriving in moist 
places, a fox, a raven, a bee, ring-plovers, and snow-buntings. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT AVHJTE WORLD. 103 

Proceeding, they were soon in the somewhat warmer waters 
of the sound. Sajs Parry: ^'It is more easy to imagine than 
describe the almost breathless anxiety, which was now visible 
in every countenance, while as the breeze increased to a fresh 
gale, we ran quickly up the sound. The mast-heads were 
crowded by the ohicers and men during the whole afternoon; 
and an unconcerned observer, if any could have been uncon- 
cerned on such an occasion, would have been amused by the 
eagerness with which the various reports from the crow's nest 
were received; all, however, hitherto favorable to our most 
sanguine hopes." 

August 5th the vessels were off Leopold Island, at the 
northeast corner of North Somerset Island, and in the north- 
west angle of a Jong channel of water running-^ southward and 
named by Parry 

PRINCE REGENT'S INLET. 

Having met the ice at Leopold Island, Parry turned south, 
sailing 120 miles, to the opening of the inlet into the wider ex- 
panse of water known as the Gulf of Boothia and extending 
300 miles beyond in a southwesterly direction. Here he again 
met the ice and, at Cape Kater, longitude 90° 29' west and lati- 
tude 72° 13' north, on the east side of the inlet, located the 
farthest south point attained. In this region the compasses 
became sluggish and the great variations caused by local at- 
tractions rendered them useless. A quantity of iron-stone 
found on the shore attracted the magnet powerfully. Parry 
therefore decided to return to Lancaster Sound, and wdiile sail- 
ing along the east coast of the inlet on the 13th, entered a 
natural harbor one mile wide and three deep, named by him 
Port Bowen. tiere were seen ducks and clovekies and 

NORWALS IN GREAT NUMBERS. 

A bottle containing a record of his proceedings was deposited 
and covered with a quantity of shaly limestone, which was 
found to be abundant in the locality. 

August 17th the vessels were off the headland projecting 
into the northeast corner of the inlet at its junction with Lan- 



104 



THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 




RECICKS 

CHART OF THE ARCTIC 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 



lOf 




OcEAy . 



106 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

caster ^ound. This headland Parry called Cape York. On 
the next day they were sailing westward on the north side of 
the sonnd and soon entered its continnation named b}' Parr^' 

BARROW'S STRAIT, 

opening on the north side of which he discovered on the 22d 
two remarkable channels, the largest of which, twenty-four 
miles wide at its outlet, he named 

WELLINGTON CHANNEL. 

(continuing westward, Cornwallis, Bathurst, and Byam Martin 
islands were soon discovered, the last-named being examined 
on the 28th b3^ Captain Sabine, Mr. James C, Ross, nephew to 
Sir John Koss, afterwards celebrated, and by others. The 
party made various observations and a collection of natural 
history specimens. Moss in abundance was found in the moist 
valleys and on the banks of streams flovring from the hills. 
Tracks, skeletons, skulls, and horns of musk oxen, reindeer, 
and bears were observed. The ruins of six 

ESKIMO HUTS DISCOVERED 

are thus described by Captain Sabine: They were "on a level, 
sandy bank, at the side of a small ravine near the sea," and 
built "of stones rudely placed in a circular or elliptical form. 
They were from seven to ten feet in diameter; the broad, flat 
sides of the stones standing vertically, and the whole structure, 
if such it may be called, being exactly similar to that of the 
summer huts of the Esquimaux which we had seen at Hare 
Island the preceding year. Attached to each of them was a 
smaller circle, generally four or five feet in diameter, which 
had probably been the fireplace. The small circles were placed 
indifferently as to their direction from the huts to which they 
belonged; and from the moss and sand which covered some 
of the stones, particularly those which composed the flooring 
of the huts, the whole encampment appeared to have been 
deserted for several years." 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 107 

September 1st a fine, large island was discovered and 
named 

MELVILLE ISLAND. 

Upon it were seen herds of reindeer and musk oxen, but, being 
frightened by a dog, they fled, and none were secured. It was 
very apparent that upon the island was an abundance of life, 
for there were the tracks of bears, the skulls, skins and horns 
of reindeer and musk oxen, burrows of 

FOXES AND FIELD-MICE: 

flocks of ducks, geese, and snow-buntings, while of ptarmigans, 
several were shot. At the beach there were various kinds of 
shells and an immense quantity of shrimps. 

The magnetic observations made here and compared with 
those made in Prince Kegeut's Inlet, says Captain Sabine, the 
astronomer of the expedition, ^'lecl to the conclusion that we 
had, in sailing over the space included between the two me- 
ridians, crossed immediately to the northward of the magnetic 
pole, and had undoubtedly passed over one of those spots upon 
the globe where the needle would have been found to vary 
180°, or, in other words, where its north pole would have 
pointed due south. This spot would, in all probabilit}', at this 
time be somewhere not far from the meridian of 100 west of 
Greenwich." 

On September 4th the vessels passed longitude 110° west, 
and therefore became entitled to the 

BOUNTY OF £5,000 

granted by Parliament as a stimulus for more effectively de- 
termining longitude at sea, discovering the northwest passage 
or approaching the North Pole, to any who should pass the 
110th meridian west from Greenwich. 

To the bold projection on the south shore of the island was 
applied, in honor of the event, the name of 

BOUNTY CAPE. 

Here, on the 5th, being stopped by ice, the anchor was let go 



108 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

for the first time since leaving England, and that in longitude 
110° west 

On the 6th a boat was sent ashore to procure turf, or peat, 
for fuel, and some small pieces of 

GOOD COAL 

were picked up in various places. About three-fourths of a 
mile from the shore two herds of musk oxen were seen — one 
of nine and the other of five; while, at a distance, were also 
observed two reindeer. 

On the 8th several grouse and a w^hite hare were killed. 
There were also seen field-mice, snow-buntings, a snowj-owl, 
a fox, four musk oxen, ducks, gulls, terns, and a seal. It was 
very evident that this island was visited if not inhabited by 

MUSK OXEN IN GREAT NUMBERS, 

for their bones and horns lay scattered in every direction and 
the carcass of one was found. The skulls of a wolf and a lynx 
were picked up and a half bushel of coal was gathered. 

On September 10th, Mr. Fyfe, the master-pilot, and six 
other men from the "Griper" went ashore to explore the island, 
taking with them provisions for but one day. After being 
absent two days fears were entertained for their safety, and 
Messrs. Keid, Beverh^ and Wakeman having volunteered to ■ 
search for them, went ashore for that purpose. They them- 
selves, how^ever, 

BECAME LOST, 

and, guided by fires, lights, and rockets from the ships returned 
without the missing ones. Accordingly on the 13th four 
search-parties were organized and before nightfall the lost 
men were found and returned to the ships in an exhausted 
condition. They had killed man^^ grouse, however, and had 
not suffered greatly through lack of food. 

In the center of the ishmd they had found fertile valleys 
and level plains abounding with grass and moss; also a fresh- 
water lake two miles in length by one in width, in w^hich 
were several species of trout. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 10^ 

They had also seen several herds of reindeer, many hares 
and two elks. The search-parties saw many herds of musk-oxen. 

Lieutenant Parry now decided to go into winter-quarters, 
and accordingly on the 26th of September the anchors were 
dropped in thirty feet of water in a laud-locked harbor at a 
cable's length from shore in longitude 110° 48' 2" west and 
latitude 74° 47' north. In order to get the ships into harbor it 
was first necessary- to cut a channel nearly two and a half 
miles long through the "young" ice nearly eight and a half 
inches thick, and when the ships had reached their moorings 
the men cheered heartily. Their haven was called simply 

WINTER HARBOR, 

and Parry designated the group of islands which he had dis- 
covered, the North Georgian Islands, after George TIL, but 
they have since been named the Parry Islands. 

During the month of October many reindeer were seen and 
several shot; a wolf was seen and a fox caught. 

As cold weather was now upon them, the heating arrange- 
ments were looked after, and b}^ utilizing the steam boilers 
and a system of tubing the ninety-four jnen were made as 
comfortable in their quarters, so far as heat and food are 
concerned, as could have been desired. In order to maintain 
a fraternal feeling among all on board, the 3'ouug commander 
allowed no discrimination to be made, either as to quantity 
or quality of food, between the officers and men. Moreover, 
he himself joined heartily in various plans set on foot for 
the purpose of passing away the long, dark months. Among 
these were a series of theatrical exhibitions, given every two 
weeks, a school, and the publication of a daih^ (except Sunday) 
newspaper called the "Winter Chronicle, or North Georgia 
Gazette." 

During the day portion of each twenty-four hours, the 
men were variously employed in scrubbing the decks, passing 
inspection, banking up the ships with snow, walking for exer- 
cise on shore, mending clothes, repairing sails or performing- 
other ship work, etc. 
8 



110 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

On January 12th the thermometer sank to — 51°F. in the 
open air. This caused brandy to become 

AS THICK AS HONEY. 

Two days later the maximum cold was experienced, viz., 
— 52°F. 

On February 3d, from the top of the main-mast, fifty-one 
feet above the sea, the sun w^as seen for the first time in eighty- 
four days. 

On the 24th the observatory was nearly destroyed by fire. 
John Smith, Parry's servant, in assisting Sergeant Martin to 
save the dipping-needle, had his hand so severely frozen that, 
vf hen taken on board by Mr. Edwards and his hands placed in 
water, ice immediately formed on the surface of the water by 
the intense cold thus suddenly imparted to it. Later, it was 
made necessary to ami^utate four fingers of one hand and 
three of the other. 

March 8th more than one hundred bucketsful of ice, each 
containing from four to five gallons, were removed from the 
ships' sides, this being the condensation of the vapor of the 
men's breaths and from the victuals in four weeks' time. 

In order to assist in preventing the ravages of scurvy Parry 
grew in his own cabin a small garden of mustard and cress 
and distributed it among the men. 

April 30th the thermometer again touched the melting- 
point, the first time since September 12th. On the next day 
the midnight sun, the 

SUN THAT NEITHER SETS NOR RISES, 

was seen. On this day also, the rations, as a matter of pru- 
dence, were reduced to two-thirds of the stated allowance ex- 
cept in the matter of meat and sugar. The expedition had 
now^ been absent a year — half the time for which it was pro- 
visioned. The men were now set to cutting the ice from 
around the vessels. It was seven feet thick and so heavy that 
when freed from it the ships immediately ro^e two feet in the 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. Ill 

water. The men at this time suft'ered severely from the 
effect of 

SNOW BLINDNESS, 

a sensation similar to that caused by sand or dust in the eyes. 
As a remedy sugar of lead or other cooling lotions were used. 
On May 24th all were surprised at two showers that fell, and 
those below hurried on deck to renew the sensation of seeing, 
and getting wet in, the rain. 

About this time the scurvy made its appearance, having 
attacked one of the sailors, who, it appeared, had been in the 
habit of eating the fat skimmings, or "slush," from the water in 
which salt meat had been boiled. 

June 1st Lieutenant Parry, Captain Sabine, Dr. Fisher, 
Messrs. Mas and Reid, midshipmen, two sergeants, and five 
seamen and marines set out to explore the island. On a cart 
drawn by the men were carried three weeks' provisions, wood 
for fuel, and two tents, altogether weighing about 800 pounds. 
They traveled by night — when the sun was circling low on 
the northern arc of the horizon — ^and slept during the warmer 
period of the day. On the 2d at a lake one-half mile long eider 
ducks and ptarmigans were met with and seven of the ptarmi- 
gans killed. From the tops of the hills could be seen the 
masts of the "Hecla" and the "Griper" eleven or twelve miles 
in the distance. To the north and west of them extended a 
great plain. They now breakfasted on biscuit and a pint of 
gruel made of salep powder for each man. 

Reindeer and fawns were frequently seen as they jour- 
neyed. 

Captain Sabine became affected with a bowel complaint 
and was therefore drawn upon the cart. The men were greatly 
assisted in the work of pulling the vehicle by the use of a tent- 
blanket used as a sail. 

On the Ttli the party arrived at the head of a long inlet 
v/hich was named the Hecla and Griper Bay. Cutting through 
the ice, which was fourteen and a half feet thick, the water 
was found to be brackish and therefore it was concluded that 
the bay was an arm of the ocean. An island seen in the dis- 



112 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

tauce was named after Captain Sabine, while otlier features 
were named after various members of tlie party. Tliat tliere 
had been periods of open water was proven by the 

DISCOVERY OF FIR-WOOD, 

consisting of a pole seven and a half feet long and three or 
four inches thick. It was found eight}^ 3^ards inland and 
thirty feet above the level of the sea. It had probably jour- 
ue^'ed from the opposite coast of Russia or Siberia. 

Before leaving the ba}^ a stone cairn twelve feet high and 
as many feet in diameter was erected. In it was deposited a 
tin cylinder containing a record of their proceedings, besides 
several coins and naval buttons. 

Leaving the bay, the party traveled southward, bearing to 
the west. Many ptarmigans were shot and afforded excellent 
additions to their daily rations. The tracks and horns of rein- 
deer were very numerous. Finally, a very long inlet was 
reached and named Liddon Gulf in honor of the commalider 
of the "Griper," while the two capes at its extremity were 
called Beechey and Iloppner, after lieutenants of the "Hecla" 
and the "Griper" respectiveh^ The shores of the gulf were high 
and precipitous. The cart was broken and the wheels were 
abandoned there, the other parts being carried along for fuel. 
In the center of the -gulf and rising abruptly on its western side 
to a height of seven hundred feet was discovered a barren 
island of sandstone three-fourths of a mile in length. It was 
named in honor of Mr. Hooper, the purser of the "Hecla." 
Here were killed 

FOUR FAT GEESE 

and a great many animals seen. A fine valley was discovered 
and in it were many tracks of reindeer and musk oxen. The 
pasturage was excellent. On the 13th several ptarmigans and 
golden plovers were killed. A herd of not less than thirteen 
reindeer, and a musk-ox, were seen. Gn this same day 

.SIX ESKIMO HUTS 

were also discovered and are thus described : "They consisted 
of rude circles, about six feet in diameter, constructed irregu- 









(1.) Vale of Clearwater River, from the Methye Portage, descent 1,000 feet in 36 
miles— Back. (2.) Mackenzie River— Kendall. (3.) Rapids, Mackenzie River, 
September, 1826— Back. (4.) Fort Franklin, Great Bear Lake, October 16, 1826— 
Kendall. (5.) Winter View of Fort Franklin— Back. (6.) Eskimos Approaching 
Boats, Shoalwater Bay, July 7, 1S26— Back. (See Chapter Xl.) 




5,,«f»«»K»B*«i 









-.^^3Wi8gftj> 




(1.) Boats Getting Afloat — Back. (2.) A^aia Agr>)niul in Sboalwator liay at 
Midnigbt, July 7, 182t)— Back. (3.) First Detention by Ice— Back. (4.) Young 
Eskimo Woman of Tribe West of Mackenzie Eiver, July 9. 1826~Back. (5.) Eski- 
mos West of the Mackenzie, July 9, 1826— Back. (6.) Winter House of Eskimo, 
Drawn July 12, 1826-Back. (See Chapter XI.) 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 113 

larly of stones of all sizes and shapes, and raised to the height 
of two feet from the ground. They were paved with large 
slabs of white schistose-sandstone, which is here abundant. 
The moss had spread over this floor, and appeared to be the 
growth of three or four years. In each of the huts on one side 
was a small separate compartment forming a recess, projecting 
outward, which had probably been their storeroom; and at 
a few feet from one of the huts Avas a smaller circle of stones, 
which had composed the fireplace, the marks of fire being still 
perceptible upon them." 

Vegetation on the island now began to flourish. The saxi- 
frage was in blossom, while the sorrel was far advanced. Of 
this the men gathered and ate large quantities as a preventive 
of the scurvy. 

On the 15th Parry and his party returned to the ships after 
a journey of about 180 miles. Meanwhile the ships' crews 
had been busily employed in reloading ballast and re-stowing 
the holds. 

Hunting parties were now sent out in every direction. Dr. 
Fisher and two men constituted one of these. His part}', in 
the course of ten days, saw thirty deer, of w^hich they killed' 
but two, these being small and weighing when dressed about 
fifty or sixty pounds. They saw two wolves, several foxes, 
and many hares. Of the hares they killed but four, these 
averaging about seven and a half pounds in weight. They also 
saw brent geese, king ducks, long-tailed ducks, Arctic and 
glaucous gulls, ptarmigans, plovers, sanderlings, and snow- 
buntings. Although very wary, about a dozen geese were 
shot. Fifteen ptarmigans were also killed. 

About the 25th of June the grass was from two to three 
inches high, while the sorrel was so abundant that it required 
but a few minutes for the men to obtain enough for their din- 
ner-salads twice a week. The sorrel was eaten with vinegar, 
and, as we have already remarked, as a preventive of the 
scurvy. 

On June 30th, however, the death of William Scott, a boat- 
swain's mate, occurred. He died of scurvy and a complica- 



114 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

tiou of other difficultieis. On the 2d of -July he was buried on 
shore with great respect and soleniity. Over his 

LONELY GRAVE 

w^as erected a saiidstione shib which had been suitabl}' in- 
scribed and engraved by Dr. Fislier. 

A funeral, however, was not the only occasion for religious 
observance among the officers and men of this expedition, for 
regularly every Sunday divine services were held and a sermon 
was read on both vessels. 

From the series of tidal observations made while at Winter 
Harbor it was found that the maximum of rise and fall of the 
tides was four feet and four inches. 

On July 14th a large cairn was erected on the most con- 
spicuous hill overlooking the sea and in it Avere deposited the 
usual notices, coins, etc., and on a large stone was engraved 
a notice of the wintering of the ships in the harbor. On the 
oOth the ice began to move from the bay in a body. 

August 1st the ships were clear of ice and sailing west- 
ward. On the Gth a landing was made, and during the fol- 
lowing night fourteen hares were killed, together with a num- 
ber of glaucous gulls, which were found with their young on 
a precipitous, isolated rock. 

The ice w^as very thick in this part of the sea and violent 
collisions took place among the huge floes. Great ice-cakes 
fiftv and 

SIXTY FEET IN THICKNESS 

lay stranded in vast heaps upon the beach. On the 9th a 
musk ox weighing over 700 pounds was killed. From it was 
obtained 421 pounds of fresh meat quite free from any taint of 
musk. 

The ships now moved on, making but slow progress through 
the ice-floes everywhere from forty to fifty feet thick. On the 
15th and IGth they were off a precipitous headland on the 
southwest portion of the island which was named Cape Dun- 
das. In this locality Parry made his farthest w^est, longitude 
113° 46' 43", latitude 74° 26' 25". To the southwest there ap- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 115 

peared a bold rock-boimd coast rising abruptly through an 
otherwise unbroken exj^anse of ice and to it Parry gave the 
name of 

BANKS' LAND. 

On August 23d the ships fought their way through six miles 
of the most difficult ice navigation which Parry says he had 
ever known. 

On the 24th a landing was made and four out of a herd of 
seven musk bulls were killed. They averaged when weighed 
about 360 pounds. From the number of skulls and skeletons 
of these animals found in every direction it was inferred that 
they do not migrate from the island during the winter. 

The ice now compelled the ships to turn eastward and on 
the 26th they were off their old quarters in Winter Harbor. 
On August 30th Parry publicly announced his intention of re- 
turning to England. In the course of the first week in Sep- 
tember he met with some whaling-vessels in the west waters of 
Baffin's Bay and from them the home news was learned, among 
the information gained being that of the death of George III. 

After visiting a small band of Eskimos at the mouth of the 
River Clyde, longitude 69° west, latitude 70° 30' north, and 
in whose praise Parry writes enthusiastically, the expedition 
proceeded homeward, arriving at Peterhead, Scotland, October 
30th, and a fortnight later at London. 




AEUOW TAK, b.NuW-bbAltK. 



THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE: 



CHAPTER VI. 

FRANKLIN'S FIRST EXPEDITION. 

"Of obscure but respectable parentage!" Sucli is the ear- 
liest account of Sir John Franklin. 

Born in Lincolnshire, England, in 178(>, bnt four years be- 
fore Scoresby, Jr. and V/illiani E. Parry, he, like them, made 
the most of his time and rose rapidly to distinction. At first in- 
tended for the church, his father thought to cure him of a de- 
sire for a seafaring life b}"^ sending him on distant voyages. 
The experiences, instead, contirmed him in his inclinations 
toward a ''life on the ocean wave," and he accordingly entered 
the Ro3^al Navy, Like Parrj^, he was among those w^honi Great 
Britain sent to be thrashed by the Americans in the war of 
1812 and was wounded in the fatal 

ATTACK ON NEW ORLEANS 

in 1815. Four years later we hear of him leading an expedi- 
tion for the purpose of "d(^termining latitudes and longitudes, 
and exploring the continent eastward from the Coppermine 
River," 

Sailing from London, in May, 1819, in a course of a few 
weeks the three ships under his command were off the coast 
of Creenland, Here the "Prince of Wales," in his immediate 
command, struck upon a reef and in spite of the utmost exer- 
tions of all on board and the constant working of the pumps, 
the vessel, now separated from her consorts in a gale, seemed 
doomed. 

Some women bound for the Hudson Bay's colonies gave 
heroic assistance during this trying period and merited the 
praise of the gallant Franklin, who says that their example 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREi^T WHITE WORLD. 117 

did much to stimulate the efforts of the men in the unequal 
struggle. B}^ the timely use of oakum and canvas the hole 
was so greatly reduced in size that the pumps gained on the 
incoming water and the vessel overtook her companions and 
the damage was repaired. 

August 30tli Franklin arrived at 

YORK FACTORY, 

now known as Fort York. Among his party w^ere Dr. Richard- 
son and Messrs. Back and Hood, midshipmen in the navy. All 
three men were experienced navigators, but were also well 
adapted to tlie difficult w(n-k of exploration by land. 

From York Factory Franklin and party made the journey 
to Fort Chipewyan by way of the streams and lakes in the 
great depression leading to the Great Slave Lake. While 
ascending one of the streams Franklin, who was standing on 
one of the banks, was precipitated into the current and his life 
was saved with difficulty. In another of these rivers was 
found a small island on which was a quantity of iron-stone of 
such power as to render useless the compasses wlieu brought 
within range of its influence. 

The 13th of July found the entire party at Fort Chipewyan. 
Here they engaged sixteen Canadian voyageurs as assistants, 
and before the close of the month others had joined them, so 
that the entire party consisted of thirty-two, including three 
children. This number embraced three Indian interpreters, 
and three women, the wives of three of the voyageurs, who had 
been taken along for the purpose of making clothes and shoes 
for the men at the winter quarters. 

On August 2d the journey toward the Coppermine was be- 
gun. Great privations were endured and finally the Canadian 

VOYAGEURS REBELLED 

and refused to go fartlier unless provided with more food. 
Franklin, however, informed them that should any of them 
desert or otherwise hinder the progress of the expedition they 
would be severely dealt vrith. They "took the hint" and were 
ever afterwards faithful and performed excellent service. 



118 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Somewhat later, old A-kai-tclio, a shrewd yet friendly 
Chipewyau chief who with some of his tribe had joined Frank- 
lin at the fort, declared that, owing to the near approach of 
winter, it would be hazardous to proceed farther. In vain 
Franklin argued the case and stated his desire to observe an 
eclipse that was about to occur nearer the sound of the Copper- 
mine. The old chief, however, informed Franklin that, should 
he persist in advancing farther, he would send some of his 
young men to accompany them, that it might not be said of the 
Indians that they had guided the white men to those barren 
regions and there left them to die alone. 

Hereupon Franklin decided to go into winter-quarters. 
This was on 

WINTER LAKE, 

situated between the source of the Yellow Knife River, the 
ascent of which from Great Slave Lake they had just com- 
pleted, and the head of the Coppermine River, the descent of 
which they desired to begin that season. 

On the 6th of October the officers took up their abode in a 
commodious log house which had been built. The roof and 
walls of the house were plastered with clay tempered before 
the lire with water, and frozen as it was daubed on. This 
rough plastering afterwards cracked, so as to admit the wind 
from every direction. 

Nevertheless, a good fire of fagots built in the capacious 
clay-built chimney rendered the quarters quite comfortable. 

By the end of the month the men had completed a house 
34 feet by 18 for themselves. The encampment was named 
Fort Enterprise. 

Before the 15th of October one hundred deer had been 
killed and placed in the store-house, together with dried meat 
and one thousand pounds of suet. Moreover, the carcasses of 
eighty deer had been cached, that is, buried beneath heavy 
stones or timbers and thus protected from the wolves and 
other destroyers. 

In the meantime fishing was carried on with considerable 
success, about twelve hundred whitefish, each weighing from 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 119 

two to three pounds, having been secured. They froze as they 
were taken from the ice, so tliat a blow or two with a hatchet 
or knife was sufficient to split them open, when the intestines 
might be removed in one solid lump. Even though frozen 
solid for nearly two days, upon being thawed before a fire the 
fish would "come to life again," that is, of course, simply re- 
cover their animation. The fishing season closed with the 
5tli of November, owing to the severity of the weather. 

Shortly after going into winter-quarters Messrs. Back and 
Hood, with eight Canadians, an interpreter, and one Indian 
guide, made a journey to Point Lake, nearer the source of the 
Coppermine. They returned September 10th. About the 
same time Franklin and Richardson, witli a seaman named 
J. Hepburn, and two Indians, one of them being old Kaskar- 
rali, the guide, set out in the same direction. A rein<leer hav- 
ing "been killed, the Indians extracted the marrow from the 
legs of the animal and ate of it raw with relish. They 
offered it to their white companions, of whom Franklin at least, 
could not eat. Later, however, his taste was not so fastidious 
and he declared such fare to be delicious. In the matter of ♦ 
sleeping, while the white men, in their thick suits and wrapped ^ 
in blankets suffered from the cold, old Kaskarrah, having first ^ 
prepared his bed of rags and skins, would strip nak(Ml and 
then, curling himself up beneath the furs, would shn^p with 
comfort. The party returned to the "Fort" on the 14th, having 
made a journey of about 150 miles. 

On the 26th of October old A-kai-tcho, with his hunters and 
women and children, numbering in all about forty souls, came 
in from the chase and remained as an additional burden upon 
Franklin, who, however, got rid of them on the 10th of Decem- 
ber by representing to them the impossibility of keeping them. 
The old chief, however, left his mother and two female attend- 
ants at the fort. Kaskarrah, the guide, with his wife and 
daughter, also remained. 

"GREEN STOCKINGS" 

was the name of this beautiful girl of sixteen, of whom 
Mr. Hood secured a good likeness, although objected to by her 



120 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

mother for fear that it might be the means of inducing the 
"Great Chief of Enghmd" to send for the original. This belle 
of the tribe had already been the wife of two successive hus- 
bands. 

During the winter several parties were despatched to bring 
up supplies from the south, at Forts Providence and Chipe- 
wyan. Many of the caches of the reindeer meat were de- 
stroyed by the wH)lves, these ravenous creatures even ventur- 
ing upon the roof of the house in their nocturnal prowlings. 
The rations were reduced from eight ounces of animal food a 
day to five ounce!«^. On the 23d of March the last of the win- 
ter's supply of deer's meat was consumed, and the partj^ were 
reduced to one meal a day, consisting of a little pounded meat, 
which had been saved for making pemmican, and a very 
scanty supply of fish. 

C<mceruing the destitute Indian families, consisting princi- 
pally^ of sick and infirm women and children, about the en- 
cam[»ment, says Franklin: "When we beheld them gnawing 
the pieces of hide and pounding the bones for the purpose of 
extracting some nourishment from them by b<uling we re- 
gretted our inabilit}^ to relieve them, but little thought that 
we should ourselves be afterward driven to the necessity of 
eagerly collecting those same bones, a second time from the 
dung-hill." 

On the 17th of March Mr. Back returned from his trip of 
eleven hundred miles to Fort Chipewyan after an absence of 
five months. He had traveled on snow-shoes, with no other 
shelter at night than a blanket and deer skin, the thermometer 
often being at 40° below zero and once at 57° below, while he 
often [Kissed several days without food. Ilis Indian com- 
]>anions were very generous, often giving np and not tasting of 
iisli and birds caught by themselves, saying: "We are accus- 
tomed to starvation and you are not." 

Says Rack in his narrative: "One of our men caught a fish, 
which, with the assistance of some weeds scraped from the 
rocks (tripe de roclie), which forms a glutinous substance, made 
us a tolerable supper; it was not of the most choice kind, yet 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 12J 

good enough for himgry men. While we were eating it, I per- 
ceived one of the women buwilv .employed scraping an ohl slvin, 
the contents of which her iinsband presented us with. They 
consisted of pounded meat, fat, and a greater proportion of 
Indian's and deer's hair than either; and, though such a mix- 
ture may not appear very alluring to an English stomach, it 
was thought a great luxury after three days' privation in these 
cheerless regions of America." 

On the 22d of June the entire party, having left Fort En- 
terprise, Avere 

DESCENDING THE COPPERMINE. 

Fortunateh', on the 25th, they succeeded in killing several 
musk oxen. As they journeyed the course of the stream be- 
came much contracted between precipitous banks from eighty 
to one hundred feet high. In this region the copper mines 
whence the Indians and Eskimos had obtained material for 
their spears and implements were visited. 

On the loth of July the mouth of the Coppermine was sight- 
ed from the top of a hill, and four days later the party arrived 
there. It was choked with ice and full of islands. 

Meanwhile, constant watch was kept to discover the pres- 
ence of any Eskimos in this region and to avoid any collision 
between them and their own Indian allies, who had, howevei", 
lu'oniised not to disturb their more defenseless, yet detested 
neighbors of the north. The officers gladly took turus in main- 
taining these watches and it was while Dr. Eichardsou was 
])erforming this duty that the following incident occurred: 
''One night, while on the first watch, he had seated himself 
on a hill overhanging the river; his thoughts were possibl}' 
occupied with far distant scenes, when he was aroused by 
an indistinct noise behind him, and on looking round, saw that 

NINE WHITE WOLVES 

had arranged themselves in the form of a crescent round him, 
and were advancing apparently with the intention of driving 
him into the river. He had his gun in his hand, but did not 
dare fire for fear of alarming any Esquimaux who might be 



122 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

ill the iiei!L!,liborlio(Hl. Upon his i-isinfi', tlioy lialted, and when 
lie advanced toward tiiem in a menacing manner, the\^ at once 
made wa}- for liis passage, (h)wii to the tents," 

The}', however, fell in witli small parties of Eskimos, with 
whom friendly relations were maintained. 

Arriving' at the sea, distant from Fort Enterprise 334 miles, 
Mr. Wentzel, an agent of the N. W. Fnr Company, who had ac- 
companied the i)arty from Chipewyan, set out on his return 
to (h-eat Slave Lake. He took with him dispatches for Eng- 
land and was accompanied by four Canadians. He was also 
to see that the Indians deposited a relay of provisions at Fort 
Enterprise for the party should they return that way. 

Two conspicuous capes were named hj Franklin in honor of 
Ilearne and Mackenzie, while a river emptying into the sea 
farther eastward was called the 

RICHARDSON RIVER, 

after his companion. Dr. Richardson. 

On July 21st the party embarked in two canoes with pro- 
visions for two weeks, and began their voyage eastward upcm 
the Arctic Sea. On the 25th they doubled and named Cape 
I>arrow, so called in compliment to Mr. Barrow of the 
admiralty, and in whose honor Parry had named the strait 
lying several hundred miles northwest of that point. Fortun- 
ately, Franklin's party secured a few deer and one or two bears 
about this time, and were enabled to continue their voyage till, 
<m the 5th of August, they arrived at the shoal-blocked mouth 
of a stream which Franklin named in honor of his faithful 
friend and companion, 

BACK'S RIVER. 

Failing to meet with Eskimos from whom he could obtain food, 
Franklin abandoned the idea of proceeding to liepulse Bay, 
lying southeast of his position at that time and in the north- 
western part of Hudson's Bay, and accordingly, on the 22d of 
August he began the return voyage. They had traced, from 
the mouth of the Coppermine to Point Turnagain, 600 geo- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 123 

graphical miles of sea coast, and had but one or two days' 
provisions left. 

On the 5tli of September, having- eaten the last morsel of 
food, a litttle pemmican and arrow-root, they remained in bed 
two days during the prevalence of a snow-storm. They were 
without means of making a tire and suffered from cold as well 
as from hunger. 

On the 7th they again set out in their frozen clothes, sub- 
sisting almost exclusively upon a species of lichen known as 
tripe de roche, when, on the 10th, "they got a good meal by kill- 
ing a musk ox. To skin and cut up the animal was the work 
of a few minutes. The contents of its stomach were devoured 
upon the spot, and the raw intestines, which were next at- 
tacked, were pronounced by the most delicate amongst us to 
be excellent." 

On they journeyed, wearied, worn, foot-sore, and nearly 
starved, endeavoring to allay the pangs of hunger with mosses, 
pieces of singed skins, burnt bones and even their old shoes. 

On the 2Gtli they unexpectedly discovered the putrid body 
of a deer that had fallen into the cleft of a rock and died. 
Building a fire they soon devoured nearly the entire creature. 

October 1st the a.ntlers and backbone of another deer were 
found, and although picked clean by the birds and beasts of 
pre}', the putrid spinal marrow remained and was distributed 
equally among the party. Says Franklin: "After eating the 
marrow, which was so acrid as to excoriate the lips, we ren- 
dered the bones friable b}' burning, and ate them also." 

' The strength of the entire party now failed rapidly. Frank- 
lin was dreadfully debilitated and on one occasion fainted. 
Mr. Hood suffered from a severe bowel complaint caused by the 
tripe-de-roche and was litttle else than a skeleton. Mr. Back 
was so feeble as to require the use of a cane in walking, while 
Dr. Richardson was both lame and weak. Finally Mr. Hood 
and two or three others of tlie party broke down, and Dr. Rich- 
ardson volunteered to remain with them, while the rest pushed 
on to Fort Enterprise for aid. Of these, others failed by the 
way until, at last, Franklin and five companions arrived at the 



124 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

foi't, onlj' to find tliore no deposit of provisions, no trace of 
Indians, no letter from Mr. A>'entzel pointing out wliere tliej 
niiglit be f(»und. Franklin writes: ''It would be impossible to 
describe our sensations after entering this miserable abode 
and discovering' how we had been neglected. The whole part}^ 

SHED TEARS. 

not so much for our own fate as for that of our friends in the 
rear, whose lives depended entirelv on our sending immediate 
relief from tliis }dace." I.ooking about for something to eat, 
thev found several deer skins that had been thrown away dur- 
ing their former residence there, and these, with some bones 
picked from the ash-hea}), and tripe-de-roche, afforded them a 
most miserable subsistence. 

"We saw," says Franklin, "a herd of reindeer sporting on 
t)i<^ river, about a half mile from the house; they remained 
there a long time, but none of the i)art3^ felt themselves strong 
enough to go after them, nor was there one of us who could 
have fired a gun without resting it." 

Although Franklin, with a few miserable companions, had 
arrived at the fort, he had been preceded there by the gallant 
Mr. Back, who, leaving a note for Franklin informing him 
of his intentions, pushed on toward the first trading estab- 
lishment, distant about 130 miles, hoping thence to send back 
succor. 

It was while talking over the prospects of receiving this 
assistance that Franklin and those with him heard voices, 
which, with great Joy, they thought were of Indians coming 
to their relief. Bitter was their disappointment, however, 
when, instead, the emaciated frames of Dr. Kichardson and 
Hepburn presented themselves. Of course they were gladly 
received, and the single partridge which the self-sacrificing- 
Hepburn had shot that day and brought to the house was 
generously shared with Franklin and his three companions. 
The voices of all were noticed to be very sepulchral in tone, 
and Di'. Ivichardson requested the men to speak mere cheer- 
fully, and he tried to comfort them further by the prospect 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 125 

of Hepburn's being able to kill a deer on the morrow, as tliey 
had tired at several near tiie house, and by reading from the 
I'rajer Book and Testameut }»ortions appropriate to their 
situation. 

The next day the Doctor and Hepburn succeeded in firiug 
at several deer, but were uuable to kill any on account of the 
unsteadiness with which they held their guns, owing to their 
great weakness. 

Poor Mr. Hood, it will be noticed, did not arrive at the 
fort with Dr. Richardson, with whom, it will be remembered, 
the Doctor had volunteered to remain on account of his illness, 
while Franklin pushed on. 

After Franklin had bidden them farewell, they went to 
bed and remained under their blankets during a snow storm 
all the next day. Here they comforted each other reading 
from a small collection of religious books that had been pre- 
sented to the party while in London, by a very kind and 
thoughtful lady. "We read," says the good Doctor, "portions 
of them to each other as we hiy in bed, in addition to the 
morning and evening service, and found that they inspired 
us on each perusal with so strong a sense of the omnipresence 
of a beneficent (rod that our situation, even in these wilds, 
appeared no longer destitute; and we conversed not only with 
calmness but with cheerfulness, detailing with unrestrained 
confidence the past events of our lives, and dwelling with 
hope on our future prospects." 

Less than a week afterwards these two men were joined 
by Michel, the Iroquois guide. This w^as on October 9th. Lie 
was absent during the lOtli and 11th, not again appearing till 
late on the 11th. It is now believed that he had previously 
killed two of the Canadians who had been with him, viz., 
Belanger and the generous Perrault, who were never after- 
ward seen alive. 

Upon overtaking Richardson and Hood on the 11th, he 
explained that he had brought witli him a portion of a wolf 
which he had found dead, having been killed by the thrust 
of a deer's horn. 
9 



126 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

"We implicith^ believed his story then," says Dr. Kieh- 
ardsou, "but afterward became aware — from circumstances, 
the details of which may be spared — that it must have been 
a portion of the 

BODY OF BBLANGER 

or Perrault. A question of moment here presents itself, name- 
ly, whether he actually murdered these men, or either of them, 
or whether he found the bodies in the snow. Captain Frank- 
lin, w^ho is the best able to judge of this matter, from knowi-ng 
their situation when he parted from them, suggested the for- 
mer idea, and that both these men had been sacrificed; that 
Michel, having already destroyed Belanger, completed his 
crime by Perrault's death, in order to screen himself from 
detection." 

Various circumstances pointed irresistibly to this conclu- 
sion, and after-occurrences would seem to confirm the suspi- 
cion as being true. 

Toward Messrs. Richardson, Hood, and Hepburn, Michel 
behaved in a very surly, overbearing and independent manner, 
refusing either to cut wood or to hunt. In one of his angry 
moods he replied to Mr. Hood's request that he hunt, that 
there were no animals, and that they had better kill and eat 
him. 

During these dark hours, the men endeavoring to be as 
cheerful as possible, and, realizing that as their bodies and 
minds decayed, incapacitating them to contemplate the hor- 
rors that surrounded them, they were calm and resigned to 
their fate. The Doctor continues: "Not a murmur escaped 
us, and we were punctual and fervent in our addresses to the 
Supreme Being." 

At last, on the 20th, while Michel was alone in the tent 
Avith Mr. Hood, the report of a gun was heard, whereupon the 
Doctor and Hepburn rushing in found 

POOR MR. HOOD DEAD, 

having been shot through the back of the head, the charge 
coming out through the forehead. Michel persisted that Hood 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 127 

had himself committed the terrible deed, but this, both the 
Doctor and Hepburn knew to be impossible. Moreover, the 
gun had been applied so close to the back of the head as to 
scorch the part of his cap over that portion of the wound. 
Still, neither the Doctor nor Hepburn dared to declare their 
suspicions, and decided to push forAvard to the fort with all 
possible haste. To this Michel objected, endeavoring to per- 
suade them to go southward to the woods, where he said that 
he would maintain himself during the winter killing deer. 
The rest of the narrative is best told in the language of Dr. 
Richardson : 

"In consequence of this behavior, and the expression of his 
countenance, I requested him to leave us, and to go to the 
southward by himself. This proposal increased his ill-nature ; 
he threw out some obscure hints of freeing himself from all 
restraint on the morrow, and I overheard him muttering 
threats against Hepburn, whom he openly accused of having 
told stories against him. He also, for the first time, assumed 
such a tone of superiority in addressing me, as evinced that 
he considered us to be completely in his power; and he gave 
vent to several expressions of hatred toward the white people, 
some of whom, he said, had killed and eaten his uncle and 
two of his relatives. In short, taking ever^^ circumstance of 
his conduct into consideration, I came to the conclusion that 
he would attempt to destro}^ us on the first opportunity that 
offered, and that he had hitherto abstained from doing so 
from his ignorance of his way to the fort, but that he would 
never suffer us to go thither in compam^ with him. Hepburn 
and I were not in a condition to resist even an open attack, 
nor could we by any device escape from him — our united 
strength was far inferior to his — and, besides his gun, he was 
armed with two pistols, an Indian bayonet and a knife. 

'•In the afternoon, coming to a rock on which there was 
some tripe-de-roche, he halted, and said he would gather it 
white we went on, and that he would soon overtake us. 

"Hepburn and I were now left together for the first time 
since Mr. Hood's death, and he acquainted me with several 



128 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

matd'ial eirciiinstances which he had observed of Michel's 
behavior, and which coiilirmed me in the i)i)inion that there 
was no safety for ns except in his death, and he offered to be 
the instrument of it. I determined, however, as I was thor- 
onghlv convinced of the necessity of such a dreadful act, to 
take the whole responsibility upon myself; and immediately 
upon Michel's coming up, 1 [)ut an 

END TO HIS LIFE 

by shooting him through tlie head with my pistol. Had my 
own life been threatened I w(uild not have purchased it b}' 
such a measure, but I considered myself as entrusted also 
with the protection of Hepburn's, a man who, by his humane 
attention and devotedness, had so endeared himself to me 
that I felt more anxiety for his safety than for my own. 

"Michel had gathered no tripe-de-roche, and it was evident 
to us that he had halted for the puri)()se of putting his gun 
in order with the intention of attacking us — perhaps while 
we were in the act of encamping." 

Continuing wearily onward, Dr. Richardson and Hepburn 
at last reached Fort Enterprise on the 21)th of October, where, 
as we have alrea.dy stated, they found Franklin and his skele- 
ton-like companions. 

On the 1st of November two of the Canadians, Samandre 
and Peltier, died of exhaustion. On the 7th supplies of dried 
meat and fat arrived from old A-kai-tcho's encampment, 
whence Back had despatched three Indians (m the 5th. These 
Indians nursed and attended them with the greatest care, col- 
lected fuel, cleansed the house, and did everything in their 
power to render them more comfortable. Other supplies 
arrived, and before Christmas the survivors of the party were 
once more at Fort Chipewyan, where they remained until June 
of the following year, 1822. 

It will be remembered that Mr. Back had preceded Frank- 
lin to Fort Enterprise, and had gone on thence in search of 
aid. Of his terrible j(^urney we will give but an incident or 
two. On the 17th of October, he and one companion, St. 




rr" 




■J' 




•£&2'.<--* ■- * -f 




¥ 




(1.) Launching Boats Across Reef. Opposite Mt. Conybeare, and Distant View of 
BntisliCliainof Mountains, July 19, l&2ti— Bacli. (2) Iceberg Adjoining Icy Reef, 
August 2, 182G— Back. (3.) Northern Termination of Roclcv Mountains, August 5, 
Ib26-Back. (4.) View From Flaxman's Island, August 7, 182G— Back. (5.) In a 
Swell Amongst Ice, August, 24, 182rt— Back. (6.) Eskimo Encampment on Richards 
Island— Kendall. (See Chapter Xi.) 





!^-«»>^ ' 



i^^NV^P'^jflwl^ 





(1.) Eskiiiu) Winter Hut. Atkinson Island— Kendall. (2. t Encampment in 
Brownell Cuve.July 15, 182iJ— Kendall. (3.) Wiiniot Horton River— Kendall. (4.) 
Perforated Kooks, near Cape Parry, July 22, ISiti— Kendall. (5.) Boat "Dolphin" 
Squeezed by Ice— Kendall. (6.) Crotsing Back's Inlet— Kendall. (See Chapter XL) 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 129 

Germain, seeing some crows perclied liigli upon some pine 
trees, judged that carrion was in tlie vicinity, and upon search 
found the heads of several deer, without eyes or tongues, half- 
buried in the ice and snow. ''Oh, merciful God, we are saved !" 
exclaimed both men involuntarily, as they shook hands, not 
knowing what they did or said, for very joy. 

Another companion, Beauparlant, having lingered behind 
from extreme weakness, was now thought> of, and Back sent 
St. Germain to bring him up. The poor fellow was found 
frozen to death. 

That night was a sleepless one. Says Back: "From the 
pains of having eaten, we suffered the most 

EXCRUCIATING TORMENTS, 

though I, in particular, did not eat a quarter of what would 
have satisfied me; it might have been from having eaten a 
quantity of raw or frozen sinews of the legs of deer, which 
neither of us could avoid doing, so great was our hunger." 

On the next day, Solomon Belanger, who had been sent 
with a note to Franklin, returned, reporting the dreadful state 
of affairs at Fort Enterprise, whereupon Back urged both 
Belanger and St. Germain to advance speedily with him for 
assistance. They, however, stubbornly persisted in loitering 
about the remnants of the deer till the 30th, at which time 
they set out again, and, coming upon the track of Indians 
on the 3d of November, were soon in the encampment of Adcai- 
tcho and his followers, whence supplies were sent to Franklin 
by the three Indian couriers. 

Thus was brought to a close the great sufferings of Frank- 
lin and his courageous companions. After an absence of three 
years, during which time they had accomplished a journey of 
5,550 miles, they arrived, in July, 1822, once more at York 
Factory. Nor was tliis great and important undertaking 
accomplished without a firm reliance upon the guiding hand 
of a Divine Providence. 



130 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



CHAPTER VII. 

RUSSIAN EXPEDITIONS.— WRANGELL'S GREAT JOUR- 
NEYS IN SIBERIA. 

Following the efforts of the Laptjeff cousins in delineating 
a large part of the Arctic Coast according to Bering's plans, 

SCHALAROFF, 

a merchant of Ya-kntsk, in 1758, sailed from the Yana river 
in a ship built at his own expense, and succeeded in advancing 
farther eastward than had Dmitri Laptjeff, viz., beyond the 
Baranoff Rocks, but short of Cape Chelagskoi. Making a sec- 
ond attempt, again he failed. In his third effort, in 1700, the 
crew refused to support him. Three years later, 

SERGEANT AN-DRE-JEPF, 

a Cossack, who had been on the Indigirka, and had driven 
over the ice to and from the Bear Islands, reported that he 
had discovered in the estuar}- of the Kolyma, a group of inhab- 
ite(J islands, with the remains of a fort, and traces of a former 
large population. The next year, 

SCHALAROPP 

for the fourth time endeavored in vain to double Cape Chel- 
agskoi. On this journey he lost his life. Of him, saj's Wran- 
gell, whose work in the same region we are about to consider, 
"His unfortunate deatli (from starvation, it is said) is the more 
to be lamented as he sacrificed his property and life to a dis- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 131 

interested aim, and united intelligence and energy in a remark- 
able degree." In this same year 

ADMIRAL CHIT-CHA-GOFP 

made a fruitless attempt to sail round the Spitzbergen group. 
In 1767, Leontjeff, Lyssoff, and Pushkaroff surveyed the coast 
near the Kolyma. 

Meanwhile, between the years 1745 and 1768, the fur trad- 
ers, in their commerce with China and Japan, had discovered 
the islands of the North Pacific. In April, 1770, 

LIAKHOV, OR LACHOW, 

a merchant, while gathering a cargo of fossil ivory in the 
vicinity of Sviatoi Nos, or Holy Cape, observed a large herd of 
reindeer advancing over the sea-ice from the north, and there- 
fore concluded that they must come from land. Guided by 
the tracks of the migrating animals Liakhov journeyed by dog- 
sled northward till at distances of forty and fifty-two miles 
from the Cape he discovered the two southernmost of the 

NEW SIBteRIAN ISLANDS, 

and found them both wonderfully rich in the ivorj^ of the mam- 
moth. Having been rewarded for his discovery by Czarina 
Catherine II. with the exclusive right to collect ivory from 
them, in 1773 he discovered the largest of the three, which 
still bear his name. In 1787, 

JOSEPH BILLINGS, 

who had accompanied Captain Cook in his last voyage, sailed 
down the Kolyma river with two vessels, and from its mouth 
eastward a short distance beyond Baranoff Kocks. Owing to 
the impassable condition of the ice he returned to the mouth 
of the Kolyma, whence, leaving the vessels aground, he pro- 
ceeded to Ya-kutsk. In this, as well as in subsequent opera- 
tions, he acted in the service of the Russian navy. In June, 
1790, in command of a second expedition he visited the Aleu- 
tian Islands, where, observing the oppression of the natives 
by the Russian and Cossack traders, he strove to ameliorate 



132 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

the sad condition of the defenseless tribes by governmental 
interposition. In Angnst, he endeavored to survey the Chook- 
chee peninsula, but, owing to the hostility of the natives, 
engendered, doubtless, by long years of oppression by the Cos- 
sack and Russian adventurers, the effort was abortive. Says 
Sauer, the historian of the voyage: "We passed three villages, 
and halted at a fourth for the night. The huts were dug under 
ground, covered with earth, of a square form, with a fireplace 
in the middle, and four large stones made the hearth. We 
were obliged to treat with them for water, and for fuel to boil 
our food, and to pay for it immediately. Observing our good 
nature and want of power, tliey 

TOOK A Ln<:iNG TO THE BUTTONS 

on our coats and cut them off without ceremony. The men 
were tall and stout, and tlie warrior had his legs and arms 
punctured. The women were well-made, and above the middle 
size; health}' in appearance, and by no means disagreeable 
in their persons; their dress was a doe's skin with the hair on, 
and one garment covered their limbs and the whole body. 
They wore their hair ])arted, and in two plaits, and hanging 
over each shoulder, their arms and face being neatly punc- 
tured." 

THE ARCHIPELAGO OF NEW SIBERIA, 

discovered in 180G by Sir-a-wat-sky, and explored by Heden- 
stroni three years later, lies almost due north from the mouth 
of the Yana, a short distance east of the Lena delta, between 
latitude 73° and 70° north, and longitude 135° and 150° east. 
According to San-ni-koff, who explored the group in 1811, "the 
whole soil of the first of the Liakhov Islands appears to con- 
sist of bones and tusks of mammals." On the hills of Kotelnoi, 
one of tlie group, he found the skulls and other bones of 
horses, buffaloes, oxen, and sheep; and although covered with 
snow and ice and not producing even a living shrub, fossilized 
trees were found in numerous localities, ronceruing the cele- 
brated "Wood Iliils" of those islands, ITedenstrom, who visited 
them in 1811, says: "They are thirty fathoms high (180 feet), 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 133 

and consist of horizontal strata of sandstone, alternating witli 
strata of bituminous beams or trunlvs of trees. On ascending 
these hillSj fossilized charcoal is everywhere met with, covered 
apparently with ashes, but on closer examination this ash 
is also found to be a petrification, and so hard that it can 
scarcel}^ be scraped oft" with a knife. On the summit another 
curiosity is found, namely, a long row of beams resembling 
the former, but fixed perpendicularly in the sandstone. The 
ends, which project from seven to ten inches, are for the most 
part broken. The vrhole has the appearance of a ruinous 
dike." According to this same explorer the tusks of the mam- 
moth are smaller and lighter but more numerous as one jour- 
neys towards the north on the islands, often weighing only 
from 108 to 144 pounds avoirdupois. On the mainland of 
Siberia they weighed from three to four times as much. 
To these larger animals must have belonged 

THE FROZEN MAMMOTH 

discovered in 1799 by Schumachoff, a Tungusian ivor^^ hunter. 
This occurred near Lake x4.ncoul. Four years later, the ice 
which enveloped it having melted away, the carcass fell upon 
the sand, where its well-preserved flesh afforded to the dogs 
and wild beasts food for at least three seasons. In 1804 Schu- 
machoff carried away and sold the tnsks for forty dollars. Two 
years later Mr. Adams found it in a mutilated condition, but 
with some of the flesh still adhering to the bones. The skele- 
ton, excepting one fore-leg and some of the tail-bones, Avas 
complete. Three-fourths of the skin remained, and required 
the united efforts of ten men to remove it 150 feet to the shore. 
It was of a dark gray color, covered with short, curly, reddish 
wool, besides some black hairs or bristles from one to eighteen 
inches in length. It also possessed a long mane. While sam- 
ples of its wool were distributed among the principal museums 
throughout Europe, the entire body remaining was taken to 
St. Petersburg and placed in the imperial museum. Its tusks 
were repurcliased by the government and replaced in their 
original sockets. In sex, it was a male. Its chief measure- 



134 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

luents were: from forehead to end of mutilated tail, sixteen 
feet four inches; height to top of dorsal spine, nine feet four 
inches; length of tusks along curvature, nine feet six inches. 

Although the New Siberian Islands are now uninhabited, 
there were found upon them traces of former population. 
These were possibl}^ of the traditional 0-mo-ki now long ago 
vanished from even the mainland, and of whom legend has 
it that '^there were once more hearths of the 0-mo-ki on the 
shore of the Kolyma than there are stars in the clear sky." 

Following the birth of the New Siberian Islands into the 
scientific and commercial worlds, the 

RUSSIAN ARCTIC VOYAGE OF EXPLORATION 

under Lieutenant Otto Von Kot-ze-bue,son of the great German 
dramatist, was undertaken in 1815. This was owing to the 
public spirit and scientific zeal of Count Nicholas Ko-man-zoff, 
who had been made the Russian Secretary of State in 1807. 
The talented Count selected as his companion the poet and 
naturalist, Chamisso, and the physician and naturalist, Esch- 
holtz. 

In a vessel of only 180 tons burden and a crew of twenty- 
two men, the expedition sailed from Plymouth, England, in 
October, 1815, and, after rounding Cape Horn, arrived in the 
Ba}^ of Avacha, Kam-chat-ka, on the 17th of June, 1816. Ten 
days later they landed on St. Lawrence Island. Here the in- 
habitants, who had never before had intercourse with Euro- 
peans, received them with amusing yet- seriously^ meant hos- 
pitality. Says Kotzebue: ''So long as the naturalists wan- 
dered about the hills I staid with my acquaintances, who, 
when the}^ found that I was the commander, invited me into 
their tents. Here a dirtj^ skin was spread on the floor, on 
which I had to sit, and then they came in, one after the other, 
embraced me, rubbed their noses hard against mine, and fin- 
ished their caresses by spitting on their hands and then strik- 
ing me several times over the face. Although these proofs 
of friendship gave me very little pleasure, I bore all patiently; 
the only thing I did to lighten their caresses somewhat, was 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 135 

to distribute tobacco leaves. These the natives received with 
great pleasure, but they wished immediately to renew their 
proofs of friendship. Now I betook myself with speed to knives, 
scissors, and beads, and by distributing some, succeeded in 
averting a new attack. 

"But a still greater calamity awaited, when, in order to 
refresh me bodily, they brought forward a wooden tray with 
whale blubber. Nauseous as this food is to a European stom- 
ach, I boldly attacked the dish. This, along with new presents 
which I distributed, impressed the seal on the friendly rela- 
tions between us. After the meal our hosts made arrange- 
ments for dancing and singing, which was accompanied on a 
little tambourine." The Europeans took their departure two 
days later, whereupon the natives killed a dog in plain view 
of them, perhaps as a parting sacrifice. 

Having passed through Bering Strait, the expedition ar- 
rived, on August 1st, within a broad bay, beginning in lati- 
tude 66° 42', longitude 164° 14' 50". It received the name of 
Kotzebue Sound, and two weeks were spent in surveying it. 
To an island and a bay that were also discovered at this 
time were applied the names of the naturalists, Chamisso and 
Eschholtz, respectively. The scientists also examined 

A REMARKABLY UNIQUE ISLAND, 

of about 100 feet in elevation and having the appearance of 
a chalk cliff. Upon close observation, however, it was found 
to be a mass of ice covered with a layer of blue chij and turf- 
earth only six inches thick, but covered with luxuriant vege- 
tation. Speaking of this. Professor Nordenskipld says: "The 
ice must have been several hundred thousand years old; for 
on its being melted a large number of bones and tusks of the 
mammoth appeared, from which we may draw the conclusion 
that the ice stratum was formed during the period in which 
the mammoth lived in. these regions." Its latitude was 66° 
15' 36". 

Leaving Kotzebue Sound on August 15th, the expedition 
sailed westward and beheld the Arctic Ocean, quite free from 



136 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

ice as far as the eye could reach, and might have attained 
what is now known as Wrangell's Land had they but pushed 
that way. Instead, they directed their course southward and 
homeward, arriving in Europe in 1818. 

Prompted by the results of the explorations of Andrejeff in 
1767, and of Pscheuizyn and Hedenstrom in the exploration of 
the Bear and the New Siberian Islands from 1809 to 1811, the 
Eussian Naval Department resolved, in 1820, to send out an 
expedition under 

LIEUT. FERDINAND VON WRANGBLL. 

It was made to consist of two divisions: the first, under 
Wrangell, with seven companions, was directed to survey the 
coast eastward from the Ko-ly-ma as far as Cape Schelagskoi, 
and thence to proceed northward to ascertain if an inhabited 
country existed there, as had been asserted by the Chook- 
chees and others; the second, under Lieutenant Anjou, with 
two companions, was to proceed northward for the same 
purpose. This division succeeded in surveying the New Siber- 
ian Islands, but failed to find au}'^ '"^inhabited country." No 
reports of this division were published, owing to the accidental 
burning of the ofdcial papers. Of the celebrated "Wood Ilill'' 
of New Siberia, Lieutenant Anjou says: "They form a steep 
declivity twenty fathoms high, extending about five versts 
(three miles) along the coast. In this bank, which is exposed 
to the sea, beams or trunks of trees are found, generally in 
an horizontal position, but with great irregularity, fifty or 
more of them together, the largest being about ten inches in 
diameter. The wood is not very hard, is friable, has a black 
color, and a slight gloss. When laid on the fire it does not 
burn with a flame, but glimmers, and emits a resinous odor." 
The expedition left St. Petersburg April 4, 1820, and trav- 
eled thence via Moscow, Irkutsk and Yakutsk, to its base of 
operations on the lower Kolyma, in latitude 68° 32', longitude 
100° 35' east, a distance of 6,300 miles. The Journey was 

MADE ON HORSEBACK 

in 221 days, thirty-six of which were spent at Irkutsk and 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. '' 137 

forty-nine at Yakutsk, Wrangell and two companions headed 
tlie cavalcade of ten pack-horses, of which only the first and 
last carried drivers. 

Between Irkutsk — situate only a short distance from Lake 
Baikal — and Yakutsk, on the Upper Lena, the travelers met 
some Yakuts and Tunguses, of Tartar origin. 

On the 15th of October, having crossed the Upper Yana, 
they met Dr. To-mas-chew-ski, on his return to civilization 
after a three years' sojourn at Nish-ni Ko-lymsk. 

On the 22d the party crossed the Indigirka at Sa-chi-versk, 
and for two days enjoyed the hospitality of the 

VENERABLE MISSIONARY, 

Father Michel, eighty-seven years of age, and who had in his 
long missionary career of forty years baptized and instructed 
in the doctrines of Christianity 15,000 Yakuts, Tunguses, and 
Ya-ka-gires. 

Continuing thence eastward, Wrangell crossed the Alasei 
Mountains, which separate the Indigirka from the Koljana, 
and arrived at Sredne Kolymsk on or about the 6th of Novem- 
ber, This place was the official headquarters of the region, 
and is situated on the Kolyma, quite on the Arctic Circle, 
Here heavy fur clothing was purchased, and then the inarch 
toward the Om-a-lon, a branch of the Kolyma, began. Arriv- 
ing upon its banks on the 31st, a two days' sledge journey with 
dogs brought the explorers to Nishni Kolymsk, where the en- 
suing winter was spent, in latitude 68° 32', longitude 160° 35'. 
The town was founded in 1644. Its inhabitants were of me- 
dium height, and strong and vigorous. Here the river remains 
frozen over from the middle of September till the following 
June, there being only three months of summer, during which 
time the sun remains constantly above the horizon for fifty- 
two days, but at so low an elevation as to give but compara- 
tively little heat to the earth. Then it may be gazed upon with 
the naked eye without serious inconvenience. 

With the inhabitants, spring begins when the returning 
sun is first seen at midday just above the southern horizon. 



138 ,' THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

although at that time the thermometer is at — 35° Fahrenheit at 
night. Autumn begins with the first freezing of the river. 
In June the thermometer sometimes registers 72°, but before 
the close of July it sinks to about 40°. January gives a tem- 
perature of 65° below zero, thus showing a range of 137° in 
five months. The winters are foggy, catarrh and ophthalmia 
resulting. Scurvy and other dangerous diseases are rare; upon 
the whole, the climate is not unhealthful. • 

On March 3, 1821, Wraugell set out for Cape Schelagskoi, 
the party traversing the intervening uninhabited coast with 
nine dog sledges and drivers. Occasional!}^ the Russian hunt- 
ers descend upon it to the Barauoff Kocks, and the Chook- 
chees, from the other side, to the Barauoff Eiver. The inter- 
vening moss-covered plains were inhabited hj the unsubdued 
Chook-chees with their vast herds of reindeer. 

The equipment of Wraugell's party consisted of the follow- 
ing principal articles: Reindeer-skin tent, with frame of ten 
poles and cooking utensils; a bear-skin apiece to lie on; double 
coverlet of reindeer skin for each pair; fur shirts; fur coats of 
double thickness; fur-lined boots; fur caps and gloves; some 
changes of linen; fire-arms; two chronometers; a seco-nds' 
watch; sextant and artificial horizon; spirit thermometer; 
three azimuth compasses, one having a prism; two telescopes 
and a measuring line. 

On the 5th of March Su-char-noi Island was reached at 
the mouth of the east branch of the Kolyma, in latitude 69° 31', 
longitude 161° 44'. On the next morning the start was made 
for Barauoff Rocks, twenty-four miles distant. On the way, 
the wooden tower, erected by Captain Billings in 1739, at the 
mouth of the Kol^-ma, was passed. Arriving at the hut erected 
by the same officer, it was found in a good state of preserva- 
tion, but filled with snow and ice. The roof was accordingly 
removed and the hut cleared in half an hour. It was found 
to be large enough for but four men, and the other seven 
slejjt without, .in the tent. On the 7th, having traveled about 
twenty-five miles, the Greater Barauoff Rock was reached. 
The temperature at noon was — 20°F, These rocks had the ap- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 139 

pearance of colossal figures of men, beasts, and the ruins of 
vast buildings. On the next day, twenty miles farther on, 
a depot of provisions for the return trip was erected on the 
banks of a stream. On the 9th, twenty miles more were cov- 
ered in a severe snow-storm. On the next day the sea-ice was 
struck, and over it, at a short distance from the shore, the 
travelers passed with greater ease. In the afternoon of the 
13th they came upon several Chook-chee huts of larch drift- 
wood in the strait separating the Sabadei Island of Schalaroff 
from the mainland. This was in latitude 69° 49', longitude 168° 
43'. At noon of the next day Wrangell saw a stretch of open 
water, extending east and west as far as the eye could reach, 
and north of it a great accumulation of ice-hummocks, which 
at first he supposed to be land. Within two miles he recog- 
nized Laptjeff's Sand Cape, longitude 168°. At the end of 
twenty miles made on the 4th, the last depot was formed, in 
latitude 69° 58', longitude 168° 41'. From this point, too, the 
sixth and last of the provision sledges was sent back, Wrangell, 
Mate Kosmin and three drivers proceeding on alone. On the 
17th, the northwest point of Cape Schelagskoi was reached. 
Ice-hummocks and icebergs were everywhere visible. Five 
miles beyond they found a quantity of driftwood, of which 
they built a rousing fire and refreshed themselves. Just west 
of them was the bold Schelagskoi, towering to a height of 3,000 
feet. From this point Wrangell and Kosmin, leaving one 
sledge behind to await their return, proceeded eastward in 
order to test the theor^^ of the English Admiral, Burney, who 
had conjectured that a strait existed between the mainland 
of Siberia and some undiscovered land extending from Cape 
Schelagskoi to Bering's Strait. Ten miles from their camp the 
latitude was found to be 70° 3', and seven miles farther on the 
coast was seen for twenty-four miles trending in a south- 
easterly direction, therefore conflicting with Burney's views. 
The farthest point seen was named Cape Kosmin, after Wrang- 
ell's companion. The limit reached was marked by a cairn 
erected on a hill in latitude 70° 1', longitude 171° 47'. They 
had traveled at an average rate of twentv miles a day — in all 



140 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

241 miles — since leaving Sucharnoi Island. The clay's journey 
was generally made in eight hours. 

The gliding of the sledges was greatly facilitated by invert- 
ing the sledges at night and ponring water upon the runners 
so as to form an ice-coating upon them. This custom doubt- 
less prevails among all polar tribes. In North Greenland the 
process is known as ki-o-thock-toh-ing, and is performed by 
rubbing upon the ivory-sliod sledge runners quantities of semi- 
melted snow, thawed by being held in the mouth. The writer 
has observed the natives to use also the warm blood of re- 
cently-killed seals, walruses, or reindeer. 

Having erected a memorial cross at CapeKosmin, Wrangell 
set out upon the return on tlie 19tli, and encamped at noon in 
latitude 69° 44', longitude 170° 47', giving to the name of a cape 
seen three miles in a southw^esterly direction the name of the 
midshipman, Ma-tinch-kin, wiio had been sent on a mission 
of peace among the Chook-cliees. 

Crossing Chaun B-dj to Sab-a-dei Island on the next day, 
the party reached their fourth depot of provisions, and for- 
tunately, too, for they had consumed all that they had taken 
with them. 

Upon these alone the return trip was made to the Lower 
Kolymsk, after an absence of twenty-two days. The interven- 
ing d(*pots had been destroyed by wolverines and foxes, and 
no provisions had been left at Ru-char-noi Island, as Wrangell 
had ordered. The round trip of 047 miles was made at an aver- 
age rate of thirty-one miles a day for twenty-one days actually 
consumed in traveling. 

On March 31st Wrangell was rejoined by Ma-tinch-kin, who 
had learned from the Chook-chees, Avhom he had visited, that 
the}' had never seen or heard of land farther north. Thus again 
did Rurney's theory fail of support. The rhook-chees had also 
promised to aid and receive in a friendly manner the expedi- 
tion vrhenever it might see fit to visit them. 

On his journey Ma-tinch-kin left Nishni Kolymsk on the 
16th of March, and four days later arrived at Fort Os-troff-noi, 
latitude 6S°, longitude 166° 10'. He was accompanied by Cap- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 141 

tain John Diindas Cochrane (the "Pedestrian Traveler" — then 
on his famous trip round the world), by a Cossack servant and 
a Ya-kut interpreter. 

On the day following Ma-tinch-kin's arrival at the fort, a 
caravan of Russian merchants, with 125 pack-horses loaded 
with commodities for the annual fair, arrived there. These 
goods consisted of tobacco, beads, hardware, and smuggled 
liquors, to be exchanged with the natives for the furs of animals 
killed not only in those regions but also on the opposite shores 
of North America, the Alaskans receiving in return for their 
articles the tobacco and trinkets obtained from the Russians. 

During fair time, the fort was visited not only by the 
Chook-chees, but also bj' the Yu-ka-gires, Tun-gu-ses, Choo- 
van-chees, Ko-riaks, and a few scattered Russians, coming from 
a radius of 600 miles. 

The value of goods exchanged annually was estimated at 
|150,000, the Russians making about sixty per cent on the 
cost of their wares ; the natives, 300 per cent. But, while the 
Russians were absent from home only a few weeks, the various 
tribes were often several months on the road. 

During the three days of the fair, the Russians were very 
noisy in their manner of dealing, while the "barbarians," on 
the contrary, maintained great composure. 

At this time Ma-tinch-kin introduced the object of his mis- 
sion to the chiefs of the various tribes, explaining that the 
mighty Czar of all the Russians was desirous of sending ships, 
if possible, by the northern seas, to bring to them wares in 
greater abundance and at less cost than they then paid, and 
also that he wished to ascertain whether or not the servants of 
the Czar could rely upon a friendly reception by their various 
peoples. Each proposition was heartily assented to by the 
tribal heads. 

Chief Leuth, from the Bay of St. Lawrence, on the Pacific 
coast, received Matinchkin into his tent, when the six nearly 
naked female inmates decorated themselves with colored beads 
in his honor, while Mak-o-mol invited him to witness a sledge 
race, in which the sledges were drawn by reindeer. The fleet- 
10 



142 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

ness of these animals and the dexterity of the drivers elicited 
the applause of the multitude. The prizes awarded were a 
beaver skin, a blue fox skin, and a pair of walrus tusks. A 
foot-race followed, during which, over a course of nearly nine 
miles, the contestants wore their usual suits of heavy fur. The 
populace, however, evinced greater liking for the reindeer 
races. At the close of the contests, the performers and spec- 
tators were banqueted upon boiled reindeer cut into pieces 
and served in large wood bowls, distributed around over the 
snow. Quietness and good order prevailed. 

On the following day Ma-tinch-kin's visit was formally re- 
paid by the Chook-chees, to the ladies of whom he presented 
red, white, and blue beads, with cand}^ and tea for refresh- 
ments. The ladies, however, disliking the tea, partook only 
of the candy. A dance followed, in which feet and bodies 
were rigidly moved back and forth, the hands meanwhile beat- 
ing the air. 

At last, three competent persons performed the national 
dance of the Chook-chees. In this, grimaces, contortions, and 
jumpings formed the principal attraction, till the artists were 
completely exhausted. This over, etiquette compelled Ma- 
tinch-kin to present to each of the three performers a cup of 
brandy and some tobacco. The guests then took their depart- 
ure, charging the Russian to return their call in their own 
country. 

The chief also made him a formal visit of friendship to give 
renewed assurance of their desire to forward the proposed 
exploration of the northern sea. Ma-tinch-kin thereupon re- 
turned to Nislmi Kolymsk, as has been stated. 

Here Dr. Kyber, the remaining offlcer of the expedition, 
had also arrived from Irkutsk. lie, however, w^as ill and un- 
able to take part, not only in this first expedition, but also in 
the one following, which we now turn to consider as 

WRANGELL'S SECOND SLEDGE JOURNEY, 

undertaken less than two weeks after the return from the 
first trip. The start was made on the 7th of April, and, as 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 143 

before, from KSiicharnoi IsiancL The train consisted of twenty- 
two sledges drawn by tw^o hundred forty dogs. 

Of these, fourteen were provision sledges, each carrying 
1,100 pounds; and two, the sledges of Be-resh-noi, a merchant 
who had been granted permission to accompany the expedition. 

Besides Ma-tinch-kin, Wrangell's immediate companions 
were Ne-cho-roch-koff, the sailor who had accompanied him 
from St. Petersburg, and Re-chet-ni-koff, a retired sergeant 
who had joined him at Yakutsk, and who had accompanied 
Hedenstrom on his exploring expedition to the New Siberian 
Islands ten years before. 

This time, a dipping needle, a sounding-line, some whale- 
bone shoeing for the sledge runners, a crow-bar for breaking 
through the ice, and a portable boat of skins for crossing open 
lanes in the ice, were taken along. 

On the second day out, when on sea-ice, an enormous bear 
was killed, mainly through the courage of one of the Cossack 
drivers. 

On the 10th, on what was judged to be the easternmost of 
the Bear Islands, Wrangell determined the latitude to be 
71° 37', longitude 162° 25', and named it the 

FOUR-PILLAR ISLAND, 

from its remarkable granitic porphyry formation in the shape 
of pillars, the tallest of which was forty-eight feet high and 
ninety-one in circumference, and fashioned somewhat like a 
gigantic human body Vv^ith tnrbaned head, but without limbs. 

Here the party collected a supply of driftwood for fuel, 
and pushed on, the temperature keeping from seven to four- 
teen degrees above zero. 

On the 12th the sledges dragged heavily on the salt-cover- 
ing to the ice now encountered, and thick fog rendered the 
men's clothing wet. These circumstances indicated open water 
in that vicinity. Here a gale sprang up and forced them to 
take refuge upon an ice-hummock thirty feet high. From 
freshly-fallen snow on the summit was melted drinking and 
cooking water. By morning the storm ceased and the ther- 



144 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

mometer rose to 23° Fahrenheit. Whalebone shoes were then 
fastened upon the runners and the sledges ran more easily. 

On the 14th, three seals were seen, but ecaped through 
holes in the ice. Several of the provision sledges had been sent 
back already, and now three more were despatched in the 
same direction. 

On the next day the explorers began to travel by night, and 
left camp after sunset. They soon found themselves, however, 
in a deep salt moor on ice only five inches in thickness and 
so rotten as to be easil}^ cut through with a common knife. 
Two miles to the southeast the ice became smooth and sound, 
and fourteen inches thick, and the sea twelve fathoms deep. 

Upon again encamping, the night w^as spent in great alarm; 
the high wind so agitated the open water somewhere to the 
north as to cause the ice to vibrate beneath their feet. This 
was in longitude 163° 29'. Four miles northward, latitude 
71° 43', the ice was found to be so greatly fissured and so 
unstable that Wrangell decided to go no farther. He w^as 124 
miles in a straight line from the Lesser Baranoff Rock. 

Proceeding now in a southeasterly direction, the travelers 
reached, by noon of the 17th, a large ice-hill in the vicinity of 
latitude 71° 30', longitude 163° 39'. Here were deposited sur- 
plus provisions, and eight of the sledges, with drivers, sent on 
to Mshni Kolymsk in charge of Sergeant Re-chet-ni-koff. 
There now remained, including Be-resh-noi, ten persons, with 
sledges and provisions for men and dogs for fourteen days. 
Still advancing over the now greatly fissured ice, they rested 
and religiously observed the 22d, which was 

EASTER SUNDAY, 

in latitude 70° 46', longitude 165° 6', in sight of the Greater 
Baranoff Rock, sixty miles distant. Before an ice-block altar 
was burnt the only wax taper which thej^ possessed. Be-resh- 
noi read the prescribed service, while the Cossacks and drivers 
sang the customary hymns. The next day was also spent in 
the same place owing to the temporary illness of one of the 
drivers. The time was employed in repairing the sledges, the 




The "Fury," Aug. 25, 1825. — Hoppner. 
Eskimo Weapons, Implements, etc. 

(See Cliapter X.) 





One of Dr. ChamberJin's Pets. 

(See pages 458-9.) 



tn 




m 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 145 

death-like stillness of the day being relieved by the thunder- 
peals of crashing ice. 

On the 26th they reached the depot left on the ice-hill. 
Numerous tracks of bears and other animals were seen all 
round it, but nothing had been disturbed. On the next day 
they again rested and found the latitude to be 71° 28'. As the 
party slept they were awakened by the barking of the dogs. 
Two bears were in the camp and these all the men save Wran- 
gell followed till morning, but without capturing them. Mean- 
while, a third bear appeared before the surprised and per- 
plexed leader of the expedition, but, after eyeing him for a mo- 
ment, scampered off and fell in with two of the returning hunt- 
ers, who wounded but did not capture it. 

On the 29th they again reached the scene of Hedenstrom's 
labors in 1810, in latitude 71° 26', longitude 162° 27', in the 
vicinity of the Bear Islands. Traveling in storm and darkness, 
guided by compass and with the teams tied in succession to the 
sledges preceding them, the party reached, on the 1st of May, 
the north side of Four-Pillar Island. Two fires of driftwood 
set blazing soon revived their spirits, and on the morning of 
the 2d, the 

NOTES OP SOME LINNETS 

regaled them as they approached the second island of the 
group. On the 5th they examined the most western of these 
and also found that they were six in number, including the 
Four-Pillar Island. 

Provisions running low and the season being far advanced, 
Wrangell now proceeded direct to Nishni Kohmisk, arriving 
there on the 10th of May, having been absent thirty-four days. 
He had journeyed 700 miles without serious injury' to man, 
dog or provisions. 

Owing to the scarcity of provisions at Nishni Kolymsk, 
Wrangell made special efforts to secure supplies for his men 
and dogs during the season. Fishing and hunting parties 
were sent out; Ma4inch-kin and Dr. Ky-ber explored the 
AniuJ; Kosmin traversed on horseback the desert region be- 
tween the Chu-kot-chie and the In-di-gir-ka rivers; Re-chet-ni- 



146 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

koff erected a small dwelling and a depot of provisions at the 
moiitli of the Greater Bar-a-ni-cha River; Ne-cho-rosh-koft" 
jj;ave special attention to the securing of fish, while Wrangell 
occupied a portion of his time determining some positions on 
the river, it being still blocked by ice. 

While in the middle of the stream on the 27th of July, his 
tent took fire and was destroyed before he could reach it, but 
fortunatel}^ the papers and instruments were not burned. 

A little later, Wrangell, through the advice of Dr. Kyber, 
sj^ent nearly seven weeks among the Ya-kuts living farther 
south along the Upper Kolyma. Here the repose as well as 
the kind ti'eatment of the natives greatly invigorated him and 
he was relieved of his rheumatism. 

About the middle of October the entire party were again 
gathered at Nishni Kolymsk, where they spent the winter of 
1821-2. 

Four-fifths of the dogs used by the expedition having per- 
ished of an epidemic during the winter, the preparations for 

V/RANGELL'S THIRD SLEDGE JOURNEY 

were begun under very discouraging circumstances. Only 
forty-five of these indispensable animals of the ninety-six con- 
teinplated could be secured. The faithful Cossacks, hoAvever, 
owning the majority of the surviving dogs, came to the aid of 
the Russians, and, together with other inhabitants, fitted out 
twenty sledges, each with twelve dogs. 

At length, on the 26th of March, with twenty-four sledges, 
nineteen of which were burdened with provisions, and with 
nearly three hundred dogs, the start was made once more 
from Sucharnoi Island. WrangelFs trusty companions were 
as before — Ma-tinch-kin, Kosmin and ]S^e-cho-roff-sky. Dr. 
Kyber again very reluctantly remained behind owing to ill 
health. 

Eleven days later, on April Gth, the expedition arrived at 
a point about ninety miles north, near latitude 71° 30', and 
eighteen miles east of Cape Schelagskoi. From this point, de- 
pots having been established, the last of the provision sledges 
were sent back. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 147 

After test journeys of three or four miles toward the north 
and northeast, in which no new land was discovered, the ex- 
pedition again started north on the 12th. Two days later 

EASTER SUNDAY 

was observed as a day of rest, the bright, mild weather adding 
to the enjoyment of the occasion. A few days later three men, 
one of them a sick driver, with one sledge and two dog teams, 
were sent back. The extra sledge thus released was used in 
repairing the others. Wrangell also' gave to the three men 
returning the largest tent. 

Pushing on, the remaining five men, with three sledges, 
reached, on April 21st, latitude 71° 52'— 3° 23' east of the 
Greater Baranoff Kocks, and near the limit of the shore-ice of 
Siberia. Ma-tinch-kin, however, with a lightly equipped sledge 
advanced six miles farther north till he "beheld the ic,y sea 
breaking its fetters; enormous fields of ice, raised by the 
waves into an almost vertical position, driven against each 
other with a tremendous crash, pressed downward by the force 
of the foaming billows, and reappearing on the surface, cov- 
ered with the torn-up green mud which everywhere here forms 
the bottom, and which we had so often seen on the highest 
hummocks. On his return, Mr. Ma-tinch-kin found a great 
part of the track he had passed over gone, and large spaces 
which he had just traversed now covered with water." He was 
absent but six hours. 

Now directing their course to the west-northwest, on the 
24th they reached latitude 72° 2' — 2° 50' east of the longitude of 
the Greater Baranoff Rocks. This was the nearest land, from 
which they were distant 151 miles in a straight line. Here 
they were again stopped by breaking ice and open water. 

The 4th of May found the party forty-six miles from Cape 
Schelagskoi. To the north and east for a distance of twenty- 
nine miles the sky appeared clear and the horizon open, with 
no land in sight. Wrangell therefore concluded that 

"THE INHABITED NORTH COUNTRY" 

was not to be found in the region of either the Cape or Baranoff 



148 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Kock. Setting out, therefore, on the return, Po-chotsk was 
reached on the 16th. Here were met Lieutenant Anjou and 
party on their return to the Yana Kiver, from the New Siberian 
Islands. On the next day Wrangell's party reached Nishni 
Kolymsk after an absence of fifty-three days and a journey of 
782 miles. 

The ensuing summer months were spent in 

EXPLORING THE TUNDRAS 

of the region, Wrangell making a trip through the Hill Tundra 
and Matinchkin across the Eastern Tundra. 

By the term Tundras is meant those vast mossy flats which 
border the Arctic Ocean not only along the Siberian but also 
the Euroiiean shores. Consisting of great swampy tracts cov- 
ered in part with a thick layer of bog moss and in part with a 
layer of dry 

SNOW-WHITE REINDEER MOSS, 

lichens and similar Arctic vegetation, they are inhabited by 
hordes of aboriginal nomads with their packs of wolfish dogs 
and immense herds of reindeer. Owing to the soft nature 
of these plains great portions can be traversed only in winter, 
when the surface is frozen. Their northern sections, however, 
contain a covering of snow throughout the year. "*" 

In the plains of the LoAver Kolyma the mosquitoes are so 
numerous that the reindeer are driven from the forests and 
made to fall victims to the hunters, who drive them into the 
river with dogs and then spear them. 

The horses of the natives are protected from the attacks 
of the mosquitoes by means of dy-mo-ku-ries, or slnokeWeaps. 

On the right bank of the river, near the sea, grass, wild- 
thyme, wormwood, the w^ild rose, and even the forgetmenot 
abound. Of fruits, the currant, black and white whortleberry, 
cloud-berry and the aromatic dwarf crimson bramble grow. 
These, together with roots, are gathered by the women and 
children. 

Besides the reindeer, there are also found in the upland 
forests, the elk, black bear, fox, sable, gray squirrel, and, in 
the lowlands, the stone fox and the wolf. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 149 

The feathered tribe is represented by great flocks of swans, 
geese and ducks, which moult and nest in the moss deserts; by 
eagles, owls and gulls along the sea coast; by troops of ptarmi- 
gans in the bushes; by snipes along the brooks and in the 
morasses; by crows, living about the huts of the inhabitants; 
by the tinch, the early visitor of the spring, and by the thrush, 
a late arrival in the autumn. 

Great numbers of swans, ducks and geese are caught duriujj,- 
the moulting-season by means of trained dogs, guns, horse- 
hair nooses, arrows and sticks. Some of these wild fowl are 
either smoked or frozen for food in the winter. 

In the spring or summer the streams overflow, and then 
are caught quantities of salmon, trout, sturgeon and other va- 
rieties of fish. In September the herrings are very numerous, 
as many as 3,000 being taken at a single draught, and in three 
or four days 40,000 by a single good net. The reindeer and 
herring seasons are times of great rejoicing among the in- 
habitants. 

In the winter some varieties of fish are caught by means 
of horse-hair nets, while foxes, wolves and other wild animals 
are captured in traps. 

The native dog is about two feet seven and a half inches 
high, and three feet three-fourths of an inch long. Its coat 
is either smooth or curly and of a black, brown, reddish-brown, 
or white color, and is frequently spotted. Its bark is much 
like that of the wolf. Although trained w^hen nine months 
of age, it is not used on long journeys till the third year. It 
is made to tow the boat in the river and from bank to bank 
at the master's call. 

The diet of the natives is principally fish and reindeer meat 
served in train-oil. As delicacies, cakes of fish-roe and dried 
and finely-ground muksuns are eaten. The family guest is 
accorded smoked deer's tongue, melted deer's fat and frozen 
butter served on a table covered with several folds of an old 
fishing net. His napkin is simply a thin, rolled-up shaving 
of wood. 



150 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

The holidays are observed with games and religious 
services. 

On the 1st of September, when on the return to Nishni 
Kolymsk from the Eastern Tundra, Ma-tinch-kin, with Be-resh- 
noi, who had accompanied him, struck the trail of the Chook- 
chees, who were en route to the annual fair at Os-troff-noi. 
On the 3d the party were without food except a single duck 
which had been killed unknown to the rest of the party, by one 
of the Yakuts. This the generous fellow secretly offered to 
Matinchkin, saying: "There, take and eat it alone; it is too 
little to do good to all of us, and you are very tired." 

Ma-tinch-kin, however, declined the offer and the duck was 
made into broth and served as a light repast for all. 

Trudging on over snow-covered hills and through deeply- 
filled ravines for three days, they at length, on the 5th, placed 
a net in a stream. Great hunger drove Ma-tinch-kin to pro- 
pose the killing of one of the horses for food; but the sugges- 
tion met with opposition by the Yakuts, who declared that in 
the heated state of the animal's blood injury would result to 
those who should eat of it. With fear, yet with hope, the net 
was drawn on the next morning, and to their great joy three 
large and several small fishes came with it. On the same clay 
the Aniuj w^as reached, and here were obtained more fish than 
could be consumed. A surplus of 5,000 was deposited for the 
use of future travelers. Some months later they learned with 
delight that these same fish were found by a party of dis- 
tressed wanderers, who were thus supplied with food for a 
month. The bread which Ma-tinch-kin's party had thus cast 
upon the water returned to them ere many days; they them- 
selves found a similar deposit of clothing, which was much 
needed in the daily increasing cold. 

Devoting the remainder of the season to surveying the 
country from the Aniuj to Nishni Kolymsk, a distance of 300 
miles, Ma-tinch-kin finally returned to Nishni Kolj'msk for the 
winter, on the 6th of October. He had been absent eighty-six 
days. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 151 

It was on the 10th of March, 1823, that the start was made 
on 

WRANGELL'S FOURTH AND LAST SLEDGE JOURNEY. 

Having secured the cooperation of the inhabitants of the 
Yana, Chroma and Indigirl^a rivers, Wrangell was able to pro- 
ceed witli nineteen well-provisioned sledges to the buildings 
which had been previoush^ erected on the Greater Bar-a-ni-cha. 
From this point he, on the 17th, made the final start on the 
Journey over the ice of the Polar Sea, and in three days ar- 
rived at Cape Schelagskoi. Here was met a kai-ma-kai, or 
chief of a tribe of Chook-chees. 

Once satisfied of the friendly intentions of the Europeans, 
this nomad ruler likewise evinced a spirit of amicability, and 
informed the explorers that the region of the cape was only 
temporarily occupied by his people while hunting the bear; 
that previously here dwelt the Che-la-gi and Che-wa-ni tribes, 
the names of which endure in Cape Chelagskoi and Chaun Ba^^, 
but who long ago migrated farther w^est. 

Concerning the reputed "inhabited country to the north," 
he said : "There is a part of the coast between the capes, where 
from some cliffs near the mouth of a river one might, on a 
clear summer day, descry snow-covered mountains at a great 
distance to the north, but that it was impossible to see so far in 
winter." He also said that he thought those mountains be- 
longed to an extensive countrj^, to which, he had heard his own 
father say, a chief of his tribe had once migrated with 
his horde in boats, but what had become of them was never 
afterwards heard. He had himself seen reindeer coming 
across the ice to Siberia from that land, and attributed to the 
inhabitants of that distant country the wounding of a whale 
which had been found stranded on an island off the Siberian 
Coast, with a slate-pointed spear still in its body. 

Wrangell, however, thouglit that the creature had been 
attacked by the natives of the Aleutian Islands, they being- 
known to use just such spear-heads. 

Proceeding eastward from Cape Chelagskoi on the 22d, the 
party soon arrived at Cape Kosmin, in latitude 70° 1', longitude 



152 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

171° 55', the coast thence eastward bein^ irregular and hilly 
to the Werkou, the west headland of which Wrangell named 
in honor of Dr. Kyber. It measured 280 feet in height. To 
the small island two miles north he ajDplied the name of Scha- 
laroff, the merchant navigator who, as we have already ob- 
served, perished in that vicinity in 1765, 

The month of the Werkon was found to be eleven and one- 
half miles wide. About three miles from the shore and in 
line with its low eastern bank a depot of provisions was estab- 
lished, and, on the 25th, the remaining empty sledges were sent 
back. 

During the next two days, onh^ thirteen miles were covered, 
owing to the great extent of ice-hummocks. Another deposit 
of provisions was therefore made and eight more of the sledges 
were despatched homeward. 

From this point, while Ma-tinch-kin was advancing east- 
ward along the coast toward the North Cape, Wrangell, with 
only four sledges and five men, journeyed northward, in search 
of the "undiscovered north land.'' 

On the 29th the ice-floe upon which was Wrangell's party 
became separated from the main ice-field in a storm, but with 
the recurrence of better weather it again closed up. On the 
31st the party advanced only six miles and were but ten miles 
from the coast. Finding the way to the north and northeast 
blocked by huge ice-hummocks, they turned toward the north- 
west on the 1st of April. After going about five miles they 
came to thin new ice. Over this they passed at full speed, the 
swiftness of the teams and the lightness of the sledges not, 
liowever, preventing them from repeatedly breaking through, 
the dogs as often and as quickly jerking them out as the keen 
sense of danger possessed by the animals incited them to great- 
er speed. Having crossed this tract of thin ice, their position 
was determined to be in latitude 70° 20', and longitude 174° 13'. 

On the next day, the 3d, they covered twenty miles. Again 
they became detached on the ice, but in the morning succeeded 
in reaching the main body by means of a pontoon-bridge of 
ice-blocks. From this point two sledges were sent back to the 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 153 

depot, while Wrangell advanced northw^ard with the remain- 
ing two. On this day, the 4th, in latitude 70° 5', longitude 175' 
27', about sixty miles from laud, an open channel, about 300 
yards wide and extending east and west as far as the eye could 
reach, stopped farther progress. Says Wrangell: "We 
climbed one of the loftiest ice hills, affording an extensive view^ 
toward the north, and from thence we beheld the wide, im- 
measurable ocean spread out before our gaze. It was a fear- 
ful and magnificent spectacle, though to us a melanchol}^ one. 
Fragments of ice of enormous size were floating on the surface 
of the agitated ocean, and were dashed b}^ the waves with 
awful violence against the edge of the field on the farthest side 
of the channel before us. These collisions were so tremendous 
that large masses were every instant broken away, and it was 
evident that the portion of ice which still divided the channel 
from the open sea would soon be completely destroyed. Had 
we made the attempt to feriy ourselves across upon one of the 
detached pieces of ice there would have been no firm footing 
on reaching the opposite side. Even on our own side fresh 
lanes extended themselves in every direction in the field behind 
us. We could go no farther." 

Setting out on the return, they arrived on the night of the 
5th at the second depot of provsions, finding it and the two 
returned sledges in good condition. Three daj-s later they be- 
came separated once more from the main ice field, on a floe 
about 450 feet wide. Wrangell thus describes their peril : 

"Every moment huge masses of ice floating around us were 
dashed against each other and broken into a thousand frag- 
ments. Meanwhile we were tossed to and fro by the waves, 
and gazed, in helpless inactivity, on the wild conflict of the 
elements, expecting every moment to be swallowed up. We 
had been three long hours in this painful position, and still 
our island held together, when suddenly it was caught by the 
storm and hurled against a large field of ice. The crash was 
terrific, and we felt the mass beneath us giving way, and sep- 
arating in every direction. At that dreadful moment, wlien 
destruction seemed inevitable, the impulse of self-preservation 



154 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

implanted in every living being saved us. Instinctively, and 
with the quickness of thought, we sprang on the sledges and 
urged the dogs to their utmost speed. They flew across the 
yielding fragments of the field against which it had been 
stranded, and safely reached a part of it of tirmer character, 
on w^hich were several hummocks, and here the dogs immedi- 
ately ceased running, apparently conscious that the danger 
was passed." 

Uastening on to the first depot, they soon made way to 
shore and camped under a cliff near the mouth of the Werkon. 
This was in latitude 09° 51', longitude 173° 34'. 

While the other members were engaged in bringing away 
the supplies left at the depots, Wrangell examined and named 
Cape Ker-kur-noi, in latitude 69° 54', longitude 174° 34'. Some 
of the provisions left at the second depot could not be recovered 
owing to the breaking up of the ice. 

On the 14th of April, with provisions running low, the 
party started eastward, hoping to meet Ma-tinch-kin, who was 
absent in the tundra east of the Werkon. Having gone forty 
miles in that direction without meeting him, they were obliged 
to turn again to the west and make for the provisions cached 
at the Greater Ba-ran-i-cha, 200 miles distant. After travel- 
ing but six miles they joyfully met Ma-tinch-kin, with an abund- 
ance of supplies. 

This energetic man had, in the course of his journey, found 
a. hut on the coast east of the Werkon, which both he and 
Wrangell concluded had been erected by Schal-a-roff, in 1765, 
and who therefore evidently succeeded in the great object of 
his ambition, namely, the doubling of Cape Chelagskoi. 

At this point, latitude 69° 48', longitude 176° 10', a depot was 
established and eight sledges were also sent back, three being 
retained for Ma-tinch-kin and four for W^rangell. 

On the 20th W^rangell's party reached Cape Yakan, latitude 
69° 42', longitude 176° 32', whence the ^'north country," accord- 
ing to some of the Chook-chees, was sometimes visible. Wran- 
gell, however, failed to see it. Three miles beyond, the Yakan 
River was attained, and nine miles beyond it, the party was 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 15o 

compelled to halt by reason of the warmth of the weather. 
Here they observed the bones of a whale stuck upright, and 
these the Chook-chees informed them were the remains of a 
dwelling of a small tribe formerly residing there. 

Forty miles farther east, in latitude 60° 28', longitude ITJ" 
44', a lot of driftwood, mostly of fir and pine, was met with. 

Meanwhile, Ma-tinch-kin made one more sally on the north, 
taking his departure on the 21st, with three sledges and pro- 
visions for fifteen days. 

Having crossed Kuy-e-gau River, Wrangell's party halted 
on the next morning seven and a half miles beyond, in latitude 
69° 12', longitude 179° 13'. Thirteen and a half miles farther 
along the coast and in a direct line a little south of east, they 
arrived at the headland discovered and named by Captain 
Cook, in 1778, namely, 

CAPE NORTH. 

Here they met a friendly tribe of Chook-chees. Its chief, E-tel, 
invited Wrangell to his tent, and said: ''There, look well at all 
those things, take from them what you like, and give me in 
return a gun, and powder and shot, as I am ver}- fond of hunt- 
ing, and am sure 1 could use a gun better than the mountain 
Chook-chees, among whom I once saw one, and shot with it." 
An exchange Avas accordingly effected for thirteen seals and a 
supply of fire-wood. 

On the 25th the party, with E-tel as guide, set out for Bur- 
ney Island, as named by Cook, but Kol-yu-chin as called by the 
natives. Having traveled fifty miles they halted at the huts 
of two Chook-chee families who were known to E-tel. Thirty- 
one miles farther on, beyond the E-kech-ta and Am-guy-im 
^rivers, their position was found to be in lati,*^ude 68° 10', longi- 
tude 182° 6'. Here the tundra gave way to more elevated 
lands. 

On the 26th the party traveled nearly fifty miles to a small 
settlement on tlie Wan-ka-rem Uiver, near Cape Wan-ka-rem. 
Says Wrangell : "There is a remarkable similarity between the 
thi'ee promontories of Schelagskoi, Ir-kaipij (Cape North) and 



156 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Waiikarem. They all consist of fine grained syenite, with 
greenish white feldspar, dark green hornblende and mica, and 
are united to the mainland by a narrow isthmus. The eleva- 
tion of the heciaiaiici and breadth of the isthmus are greatest at 
Oape Schelagskoi, and least at Cape Wankarem." 

Cape On-maii having baen doubled on the 27th, Kol-yu-chin, 
looking like a circular mountain, was observed twenty miles to 
the southeast in a bay of the same name. 

Pushing on to its southern shore, the party were soon sur- 
rounded by about seventy men of the village, who were eager 
to trade whale's flesh for tobacco and trinkets. 

Not having the means of extended barter Wrangell was 
obliged to discontinue his journey farther east. During two 
days of rest spent on the island Wrangell ascertained the south 
point to be in latitude 67° 27' by 184° 24'. He had reached the 
point attained by Captain Billings a third of a century pre- 
vious. 

Setting out on the return trip of GOO miles on the evening 
of the 29th, a three days' journey brought them to E-tel's hut 
just back of Cape North. 

On the i'iih of May they arrived at the point whence Ma- 
tinch-kin had started north, and found a cross erected by him, 
together with a note attached stating that the breaking-up of 
the ice had prevented him from advancing more than ten miles 
from the coast. He had therefore returned to Nishui Kolyinsk. 
On the 7th Wrangell's party slept at Schal-a-roff's hut. 
Six days later, with food for both men and dogs exhausted, 
they reached the village near Cape Chelagskoi. 

As the natives had caught but little game during their ab- 
sence they could give the travelers but little aid. Consequent- 
ly, with dogs foot-sore and weary, -they immediately pushed for 
the depot on the Greater Baranicha, arriving there on the 15th 
and at Nishni Kolymsk on the 22d. They had been absent sev- 
enty-eight days and had traveled 1,330 miles. 

Ma-tinch-kin had reached the place nearly a week previous. 
Upon the failure of his journey northward he had made a sur- 
vey of Chaun Bay. About the middle of July he aiul Dr. Ky- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 157 

ber left for St. Petersburg, Wnmgell aud Kosmiu following 
toward the close of August, 1823. 

Thus terminated Wrangell's persistent efforts to reacli that 
unknown "north country," his failure resulting, as he himself 
surmised, in not having made Cape Yakan the base of opera- 
tions, be3M)nd which, as has since been ascertained, there lies in 
a direct northeast line onh' 103 miles from that headland, the 
object of his long search, the island which is now so worthily 
called in his honor — Wrangell Land. 

The work of Wrangell in Northern Siberia may well be 
associated with the heroic efforts of Franklin in North America 
during the same years. 

Ever on the lookout for the best interests of his country, 
this scholarh' German-lAUSsian opposed the sale of Alaska to 
the United States in 1867. He died in 1870, aged seventy-six. 







BELTED ICEBEKU. 



11 



158 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



CHAPTER VIII. 

PARRY'S SECOND VOYAGE. 

Pleased with the remarkable success of Parry's first voy- 
age by way of Lancaster Sound, the admiralty were not long in 
again fitting him out for a second time to search for the 
northwest passage. Parry's own plans were to look for this 
in the vicinity of Repulse Bay, the northwesternmost arm of 
Roe's Welcome, and his instructions were given accordingly. 
Lieutenant Lyon, distinguished for his travels in Northei-n 
Africa, was placed second in command of the expedition, 
which, with many of the officers who had accompanied Parry 
on the previous voyage, sailed in Maj^, 1821, on board the 
"Fury" and the "Hecla," each of about 375 tons burden and 
carrying a total complement of 118 men. 

On the 2d of July both vessels were in heavy ice and among 
huge icebergs off Resolution Island, at the entrance to Hud- 
son's Strait. One of those mountains of the sea towered above 
the surface to a height of 258 feet, and, allowing one-seventh 
as the proportion visible, extended 1,548 feet beneaih the 
water, thus having a total length of nearly one-third of a mile 
Fifty-four of them were visible at one time from the mast- 
head. 

On the 14th they sighted three strange vessels, which 
proved to belong to the Hudson's Bay Company. One of them 
was the "Lord Wellington," having on board 160 emigrant 
Hollanders, bound for Lord Selkirk's estate on the Red River. 
Says Commander Lyon, of the "Hecla": "While nearing these 
vessels we observed the 

SETTLERS WALTZING ON DECK, 

for above two hours, the men in old-fashioned gray jackets, and 
the women wearing long-eared mobcaps, like those used by the 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 159 

Swiss peasants. As we were surrounded by ice, and the tlier- 
mometer was at the freezing-point, it may be supposed that this 
ball, al vero fresco, afforded us much amusement." Several 
marriages had already taken place on board and more were 
pending. 

On July 21st a huge 

BEAR WEIGHING SIXTEEN HUNDRED 

pounds was killed. It measured, from tip of snout to inser- 
tion of tail, eight feet eight inches. Its flesh was found to 
be palatable, but, after taking from it a tub of blubber, the 
carcass was thrown overboard and soon attracted two wal- 
ruses to it. On the same day the vessels were visited by more 
than a hundred Eskimos, the male portion of the tribe coming 
in their kyaks, or men's boats, to the number of thirty, and 
the women in oomiaks, or women's boats, to the number of five. 
A kyak holds but one male, while an oomiak is made to accom- 
modate more than twenty women and children. The mem- 
bers of this tribe were found to be of a thieving disposition; 
they had evidently learned the vices of other and earlier voy- 
agers. Nevertheless they were eager to barter, consummating 
the bargain by licking the acquired article all over, be it even 
a razor. They were also a merry set. 

Says Commander Lyon: "It is quite out of my power to de- 
scribe the shouts, yells, and laughter of the savages, or the con- 
fusion which existed for two or three hours. The females 
were at first very shy, and unwilling to come on the ice, but 
bartered everj'thing from their boats. This timidity, however, 
soon wore off and they, in the end, became as noisy and bois- 
terous as the men." And again : "It is scarcely possible to con- 
ceive an^^thing more ugly or disgusting than the countenances 
of the old women, who had inflamed eyes, wrinkled skin, black 
teeth, and, in fact, such a forbidding set of features as scarcely 
could be called human; to which might be added their dress, 
which was such as gave them the appearance of aged ourang- 
outangs, Frobisher's crew may be pardoned for having, in 
such superstitious times as A. D. 1.576, taken one of these ladies 



160 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

for a witch, of whom it is said, 'The old wretch wliom our 
sailors supposed to be a witch had her buskius pulled off to 
see if she was cloven-footed; and being ver^' ugl}- and de- 
formed, we let her go.' " 

Ljon continues: "The strangers were so well pleased in 
our society that they showed no wish to leaA-e us, and when the 
market had quite ceased, they began dancing and playing with 
our people on the ice alongside. This exercise set many of 
their 

NOSES BLEEDING, 

and discovered to us a most nasty custom, which accounted for 
their gory faces, and which was, that as fast as the blood ran 
down, they scraped it with the fingers into their mouths, ap- 
pearing to consider it as a refreshment, or daint^^, if we might 
judge by the zest with which they smacked their lips at each 
supply." 

"* * * In order to amuse our new acquaintances as 
much as possible, the fiddler was set on the ice, when he in- 
stantly found a most delightful set of dancers, of whom some 
of the women kept pretty good time. Their only figure con- 
sisted in stamping and jumpiug with all their might. Our 
musician, who was a livel^^ fellow, soon caught the infection, 
and began 

CUTTING CAPERS 

also. In a short time every one on the floe, officers, men and 
savages, were dancing together, and exhibited one of the most 
extraordinaiw sights I ever Avitnessed. One of our seamen, of 
a fresh, ruddy complexion, excited the admiration of all the 
young females, who patted his face and danced around him 
wherever he went. 

"The exertion of dancing so exhilarated the Esquimaux 
that they had the appearance of being boisterously drunk, and 
played many extraordinary pranks. Among others, it was 

A FAVORITE JOKE 

to run slyly behind the soauieu, and shouting loudly in one 
oar, to give them at the same time a very smart slap on the 




a. ^- 



o .5 







The Three Graces. — Upernavik. 

(Sec pages 99, 100, etc.j 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 161 

other. While looking on, I was sharply saluted in this man- 
ner, and, of course, was quite startled, to the great amusement 
of the bystanders; our cook, who was a most active and un- 
wearied jumper, became so great a favorite that every one 
boxed his ears so soundly as to oblige the poor man to retire 
from such boisterous marks of approbation. Among other 
sports, some of the Esquimaux rather roughly, but with great 
good humor, challenged our people to wrestle. One man, in 
particular, who had thrown several of his countrymen, 

ATTACKED AN OFFICER 

of a very strong make, but the poor savage was instantly 
thrown, and with no very easy fall; yet, although every one 
was laughing at him, he bore it with exemplary good humor. 
The same officer afforded us much diversion by teaching a large 
party of women to bow, courtesy, shake hands, turn their toes 
out, and perform sundry other polite accomplishments; the 
whole party, master and pupils, preserving the strictest 
gravity. 

"Toward midnight all our men, except the watch on deck, 
turned in to their beds, and the fatigued and hungry Esqui- 
maux returned to their boats to take their supper, which con- 
sisted of lumps of raw flesh and blubber of seals, birds, entrails, 
etc., licking their lingers with great zest, and with knives or 
fingers scraping the blood and grease which ran down their 
chins into their mouths." 

The next day the ships progressed with favoring winds. 
The ice-floes. Parry observed, were covered with small stones, 
sand, and shells, while on many of them were masses of rock 
weighing more than a hundred pounds and in the middle por- 
tion of floes a half mile square. 

August 1st Southampton Island was reached. Proceed- 
ing along its northern shore more of the Eskimos were met 
with, of whom it was observed that they wore 

BIRD-SKIN SHIRTS 

with the feathers placed next to the body. Rugged cliffs 1,000 



1(52 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

feet high and caves in great beds of gneiss were seen. In one 
of these caverns Parrj' and Mr. James C. Ross erected a tent 
and spent a night. Their boat's crew caught in the holes on 
the beach a sufficient quantity of sillocks, or young coal-fish, 
for two meals for the entire ship's compan3\ During the night 
also 

HUNDREDS OF WHITE WHALES 

were seen close to the rocks, and were probably feeding on the 
sillocks. Previous to this, narwhales, or sea-unicorns, some- 
times as many as twenty in a school, were seen about the ships. 
Fine weather afforded ample opportunit}^ of observing them 
in a calm sea. They were about twenty feet in length includ- 
ing the spirally-twisted horn of ivory, five or six feet long. 

The next day, Duke of York's Bay, "one of the most secure 
and extensive in the whole world," was discovered and named. 
It lies in the northwestern portion of the island and opens into 
the Frozen Strait, named by Captain Middleton in 1742 on 
his voyage of discover}^ to Roe's Welcome and Wager River 
in that year. 

On the bay Parry discovered the ruins of an Eskimo set- 
tlement and nine or ten burial-cairns about three feet high and 
as many wide at the base. In these cairns were found a skull, 
an arrow-head, spear heads, and miniature canoes. 

August 22d found the expedition in Repulse Bay, latitude 
GG° 30' 58", or nearly a mile north of the Arctic Circle. A long- 
cove of the ba}^ is described by Captain Lyon as being at that 
time literally 

COVERED WITH YOUNG EIDER DUCKS 

who were taking their first lessons in swimming. On the 
day following was begun the careful examination of GOO miles 
of coast-line northward and including Ross' Bay. Much game 
was found and it was "enacted that for the purpose of econo- 
mizing the ships' provisions, all deer or musk-oxen killed 
should be served out in lieu of the usual allowance of meat. 
Hares, ducks and other birds were not at this time to be in- 
cluded. As an encouragement to sportsmen, the head, legs 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 163 

and offal of the larger animals were to be perquisites of those 
who procured the carcasses for the general good." 

Says Lyon: "In the animals of this day w^e were convinced 
that 

OUR SPORTSMEN 

had not forgotten the latitude to which their perquisites might 
legally extend, for the necks were made so long as to encroach 
considerably on the vertebrae of the back, a manner of ampu- 
tating the heads which had been learned during the former 
voyage, and, no doubt, would be strictly acted up to in the 
present one." 

A fine salmon trout was caught in one of the mountain 
lakes. The men on board the "Hecla" killed in two weeks four 
deer, forty hares, eighty-two ptarmigans, fifty ducks, three 
divers, three foxes, three ravens, four seals, mice, marmottes, 
ermines, etc. Tw^o of the seals were of the bearded sj)ecies 
(phoca barbata), and weighed eight or nine hundred pounds 
each. 

Owing to the rapid growth of the young ice, w^hich was now^ 
three and a half inches thick, on the 8th of October, head- 
quarters were established on 

WINTER ISLAND 

near the mouth of Ivoss' Bay. Here the monotony of time and 
place was varied b^' various musical and theatrical perform- 
ances. The usual antiscorbutics, mustard and cress, were 
grown in shallow boxes filled with mold and kept in each mess 
room. A "crop" was grown every eight or ten days. A surprise 
party consisting of numerous Eskimos put in an appearance 
on the first of February. They were cleanly, honest, and 
affectionate. In speaking of them. Parry grows enthusiastic. 
He was particularly impressed with the aptness of a j^oung 
boy and a girl to learn and to comprehend the ways of the kab- 
loo-nahs, or white men. They were related as brother and sis- 
ter, the girl's name being Ig-loo-lik. She was fond of music, 
and her intelligence made her a very desirable interpreter 
between the Europeans and her people. Observing that they 



164 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

were acquainted with the four cardinal points of the compass, 
Parry placed in her hand a pencil and requested her to outline 
the coast as she understood it. Beginning with the region of 
Winter Island, she traced the coast northward as far as the 
afterwards discovered Fury and Ilecla Strait, thence westward 
to its terminus in the Gulf of Boothia, and so on southeasterly' 
to within a short distance of Kepulse Bay. She had thus delin- 
eated the coast of her native Ak-koo-lee, the Melville Peninsula 
of the geographies. 

This party of Eskimos numbered sixty souls, and were liv- 
ing in five huts recently erected entirely of snow and ice, not 
far from the ships. "^After creeping through two low pas- 
sages having each its arched doorway, we came to a small cir- 
cular apartment, of which the roof was a perfect arched dome. 
From this three doorways, also arched, and of larger .dimen- 
sions than the outer ones, led into as many inhabited apart- 
ments, one on each side, and the other facing us as w^e entered. 
The women were seated on the beds at the sides of the huts, 
each having her little fireplace or lamp, with all her domestic 
utensils about her. The children crept behind their mothers, 
and the dogs slunk past us in dismay. The construction of 
this inhabited part of the hut was similar to that of the outer 
apartment, being a dome formed by separate blocks of snow 
laid with great regularity, an<l no small art, each being cut 
into the sliape required to form a substantial arch, from seven 
to eight feet high in the center, and having no support what- 
ever except what this principle of building supplies. Suf- 
ficient light was admitted into these curious edifices by a cir- 
cular window of ice, neatly fitted into the roof of each apart- 
ment." In rebuilding their huts they did so by erecting the 
new ones around and over the old ones, which they removed 
after the new walls were in position. 

During the winter more than 

ONE HUNDRED FOXES 

were secured, and vet there seemed to be no lessening of their 
numbers about the ships, while a pack of wolves paid them 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 165 

frequent visits, on one occasion carrying olf two Eskiuao dogs 
confined in a snow hut alongside. A beautiful ermine one 
day walked on board the "Hecla" and was captured. 

■Shrimps, or "sea-lice," Avere so multitudinous in the fire- 
hole (an opening through the ice from which to draw water in 
case of fire) as to clean perfectly in a single night and day the 
skeletons of animals let down to them for that purpose. 

In March the Eskimos removed to the sea-ice for the pur- 
pose of catching the seal and walrus. 

In May Captain Lyon and Lieutenant Palmer, with eight 
men, explored the west coast of the peninsula to Fury and 
Hecla Strait. They returned on the 21st. On the 15th, while 
on the top-mast, James Pringle, a seaman, fell to the deck of 
the ''Hecla" and was instantly killed. 

On July 2d both vessels sailed northward, the coast being 
carefull}^ examined as they progressed. On the 13th, a stream, 
named the Barrow lliver in honor of the secretary of the ad- 
miralty, an active promoter of Arctic voyages, was discovered. 
In it were seen two beautiful cascades, ninety and fifteen feet 
high, and, higher up, two impressive cataracts. 

Battling constantly with heavy ice, the ships passed a 
prominent headland, v\'hich was named Cape Penrhyn. Be- 
yond it were found large herds of walruses, some of which were 
killed and eaten. 

On July IGth, on 

IGLOOLIK ISLAND, 

at the entrance to the channel described by Igloolik, an en- 
campment of over one hundred Eskimos was met with. 

The ice continued to press the vessels heavih^, so that they 
could not advance faster than from a half to a mile or two in 
the space of several da^^s. Accordingly, on the 18th, Parr^^ 
with five men, left the ships and followed the shore westward 
to a point overlooking the channel, which he named the Fury 
and Hecla Strait, and the sea, beyond which there being no 
land in sight, he supposed that he had arrived upon the Arc- 
tic Ocean. It was, however, the Gulf of Boothia 



166 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

The first half of September was spent in vain by Captains 
Parry and Lyon and Lieutenants Keid and Palmer, each in com- 
mand of a party, endeavoring to find a passage to the west. 
The strait varied in width from eight to forty miles and was 
blocked with ice extending between the many islands which 
filled it from Ig-loo-lik on the east to Cape Inglefield on the 
west. 

Abandoning further efforts for that year, Parry returned 
to the vicinity of Igloolik Island and established 

WINTER QUARTERS, 

where they were again greeted by their old friends, the Es- 
kimos. Here an uneventful season was passed, although the 
weather was unusually severe. The sun was absent forty-two 
days. 

The men took exercise on a space enclosed by high snow 
walls. 

About the 1st of May heavy, well-defined clouds, gorgeously 
colored, put in an anomalous appearance, for those regions. 
On the 5th provisic ns for one year were removed from the 
"Hecla" to the "Fury," Parry having decided to send the 
"Hecla" to England with the opening of the season and to 
endeavor to find a passage northward in the "Fury" alone, to 
Lancaster Sound or Prince Regent's Inlet. 

In June Captain Lyon endeavored to explore Ak-koo-lee 
and especiall}^ its western coast. He crossed the Fury and 
Hecla Strait and gained some slight information regarding 
Cockburn Island, as it is supposed to be from accounts de- 
rived from the natives. 

In the course of the same month the vessels were visited 
by parties of Eskimos from Too-noonk, the Pond's Inlet region 
on the west coast of Baffin's Bay. Their sleds were made of 
portions of the 

WRECKS OP TWO WHALING-VESSELS, 

which they said had gone to pieces some time before. It was 
afterwards ascertained that they were ships from Leith and 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 167 

Hull, which had been abandoned in August, 1821. Lieutenant 
Hoppner endeavored to reach the scene of the disaster by 
crossing over from Cockburn Island, but owing to the dilatori- 
ness of the Eskimo guides he was obliged to return to the 
ships. 

On July 19th a tishing party returned with G40 pounds of 
salmon and ninety-five pounds of deer meat. The largest 
fish, when dressed, weighed eight and one-half pounds. In 
length they measured from twenty to twenty-six inches. 

After having been three hundred nineteen days in their 
winter-quarters, the ships got away on the 9th of August, 
Parry having determined to return to England with both ves- 
sels, owing to the appearance of scurvy among the men. 

For the next thirty-five days they were beset by the ice 
and driven hopelessly about for 300 miles. Of that time, the 
first twelve days in September was a period of horrid suspense. 
Says Captain Lyon: "Ten of the twelve nights were passed on 
deck, in expectation, each tide, of some decided change in our 
affairs, either by being left on the rocks, or grounding in such 
shoal water that the whole body of the ice must have slid over 
us. But, as that good old seaman Baffin expresses himself, 
^God, who is greater than either ice or tide, always deliv- 
ered us!' " 

On the 23d of September, 1823, the ships were once more 
tossing in the Atlantic, and arrived safely in the Thames in 
the latter part of the following month. Of the 118 officers and 
men, 113 of them returned in good health after having passed 
two winters in the ice, the average temperature of the air 
being several degrees below zero. 



BAROMETER OF FRANKLIN'S EXPEDITION, 
Found by C. F. Hall, on King William Land, in 1863. 



168 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



CHAPTEK IX. 

VOYAGES OF SABINE AND LYON. 

The Spitzbergen route, essayed in 1823 by Captains Sabine 
and Olavering, may, in one sense, be said to liave been an effort 
to reach the North Pole. 

While the primary idea of the expedition was the investiga- 
tion of the magnetic phenomena within the Arctic Circle, it 
combined geographical research as well. 

Captain Edward Sabine having completed a series of ob- 
servations to determine the configuration of the earth's sur- 
face b3^ means of vibration of the pendulum in different lati- 
tudes from the equator to the Arctic Circle, and also investiga- 
tions pertaining to terrestrial magnetism, w^as desirous of con- 
tinuing the same in latitudes nearer the pole. His cause Avas 
espoused by that eminent scientist, 

SIR HUMPHREY DAVY, 

of the Koyal Society, and the government accordingly placed 
at his disposal the "Griper," Captain Clavering commanding. 
Sailing in May, 1823, Captain Sabine was landed with his in- 
struments at Ilammerfest, on Whale Island, w^here for three 
weeks he carried on his observations somewhat beyond the 
TOtii degree of north latitude. Sailing thence on the 23d of 
June, the "Griper," a w'eek later, arrived off the northwest 
coast of Spitzbergen, in about the 80th degree of latitude. 
Here, on the 

SEVEN SISTER ISLANDS, 

Sabine carried on his pendulum observations, while Clavering 
proceeded nortlnvard. After reaching latitude 80° 20' he was 
stopped by the ice, and, returning to the Seven Sister Islands, 
picked up Captain Sabine and sailed thence to the east coast 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 169 

of Greenland, where, in about latitude 75° were discovered a 
small group of islands wliicli, b}'^ reason of Captain Sabine's 
there making a series of observations, were named the 

PENDULUM ISLANDS. 

A few miles farther north, in latitude 75°, Clavering dis- 
covered and named Shannon Islands. From this point, high 
land was seen to extend northward to the 76th parallel. To 
the west of Shannon Island was discovered a magnificent 
inlet about fifty miles in circumference, and surrounded hj 
mountains from 4,000 to 5,000 feet high. It is known as the 
Ardencaple Fiord. For two weeks Captain Clavering re- 
mained on shore, exploring the coast, Avith three officers and 
sixteen men. On August 29th Captain Sabine was taken on 
board and the ensuing fortnight spent in examining the coast 
to the south. 

A group of twelve Eskimos was met with, although but 
little information concerning them was acquired. 

The ice along shore becoming threatening, Clavering sailed 
for Norway, where, near Christiausand, the "Griper" struck 
hard on a sunken rock, but got off without injury. She reached 
England December 19, 1823, It will be recalled that she had 
seen service with Captain Parry less than three years before 
on his first expedition, of which Captain Sabine was the as- 
tronomer, then but thirty-two years of age. 

Scarcely was the "Griper" home with Captain Sabine than 
she was again put in readiness for Arctic ice; and, in June, 
1824, sailed under command of Captain G. F. Lyon, who com- 
manded the "Hecla" during the second Parry expedition, for 
the purpose of completing the survey of 

MELVILLE PENINSULA, 

th^ adjoining straits, and the shores of Arctic America as far 
as Franklin's turning-point in 1821. 

So poor were the sailing qualities of this gun-brig, as had 
been demonstrated by Parrj^ on his first voyage, that it was 
not till the close of August that Lyon arrived at the southern 



170 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

entrance to Sir Thomas Roe's Welcome, where a terrific gale 
was encountered, before which the "Griper" was driven hope- 
lessly until she was finally checked in her mad career by four 
anchors dropped in a bay of five and a half fathoms of water. 
It was momentarily expected that the vessel would go to 
pieces and the boats were therefore loaded with supplies. 
Two of these were almost sure to be destroyed as soon as low- 
ered and 

LOTS WERE CAST 

for the purpose of insuring the safety of those who should 
draw the more reliable boats. The unfortunate ones accepted 
their fate with heroic magnanimity. Heavy seas swept the 
decks, while for three nights neither officers nor crew had 
slept. Each man brought his bag on deck and dressed in his 
warmest clothing. Says Lyon: 

"And now that everything in our power had been dooe I 
called all hands aft, and to a merciful God offered prayers for 
our preservation. I thanked all for their excellent conduct, 
and cautioned them, as we should in all probability soon ap- 
pear before our Maker, to enter His presence as men, resigned 
to their fate. 

"We then all sat down in groups, and sheltered from the 
wash of the sea, ^y whatever we could find, many of us en- 
deavored to obtain a little sleep. 

"Never, perhaps, was witnessed a finer scene than on the 
deck of my little ship, when all hope of life had left us. Noble 
as the character of the British sailor is always allowed to be 
in cases of danger, yet I did not believe it to be possible that 
among forty-one persons not one repining word should have 
been uttered. 

"The officers sat about wherever they could find shelter 
from the sea, and the men lay down conversing with each other 
with the most perfect calmness. Each was at peace with his 
neighbor and all the world; and I am firmly persuaded that 
the resignation which was then shown to the will of the Al- 
mighty was the means of obtaining His mercy. God was 
merciful to us, and the tide almost miraculouslv fell no lower." 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 



171 



When the storm abated, they found themselves in a small 
arm of Roe's Welcome, and gratefully named it the , 

BAY OF GOD'S MERCY. 

On September 12th a second gale was encountered at the 
mouth of Wager Eiver. The night was intensely dark and 
sleet and frozen spray covered the decks to the depth of sev- 
eral inches. The men, working in their frozen clothes, were 
kept from being washed overboard by clinging to frozen ropes 
stretched across the deck. All the anchors gave way and the 
ship was turned on her broadside. The morning revealed 
appalling danger, but each man did his duty, and the gallant 
young Lyon, then only twenty-nine j^ears of age, but fertile of 
resource and trained in the school of Parry, met every emer- 
gency and outrode the storm. 

The season being now nearly spent and the anchors gone, 
it was decided to return to England, where, eight years later, 
the brave Lyon passed away. 




THE CKOW S NEST. 



172 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLiU; 



CHAPTER X. 

PARRY'S THIRD VOYAGE. 

So higlily was Parry esteemed both as a commander and 
Christian gentleman that he had only to hoist his pennant and 
his former associates again rallied ronnd him in a noble spirit 
of emulation. Thus, in 1824, when he undertook a third vo}^- 
age in search of the northwest passage, he was accompanied by 
Lieoitenant Hoppner, promoted to the rank of commander, 
and second in command, by Messrs. James C. Ross and J. 
Sherer, promoted to be lieutenants, and by others of his veteran 
followers. Again, too, were the "Hecla" and the "Fury" em- 
ployed, the "Ilecla" being made the flagship as on the first 
voyage. With a total complement of 122 men, the two vessels 
sailed on the 19th of May, 1S24, and, after battling with the 
ice, rain, snow, and sleet of Baffin's P>ay during the months of 
July and August, arrived, on the 10th of September, at the 
entrance of Lancaster Sound. 

On one occasion previous to this the "Ilecla" was laid on 
her broadside by a strain in the ice which must have crushed 
an ordinary vessel. 

With much difficulty Parry now made his way to Prince 
Regent's Inlet, on the eastern shore of wdiich, in, 

PORT BOWEN, 

he resolved to spend his fourth winter in the Arctic regions. 
Arriving here on the 27th of September, the ships remained 
imprisoned till the following 20th of July. During the win- 
ter season the sun was absent 121 days, returning on the 22d 
of February, but from the tops of the encircling cliffs could be 
seen on the 2d, while the thermometer, for 131 days, remained 
below zero, rising above that point on the 11th of April, 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 173 

Although schools, scientific observations, walking and ex- 
ploring parties greatly relieved the monotony of their impris- 
onment, yet much ingenuity was necessary in devising any 
plan sufficiently novel to break the general ennui. Says 
Parry: 

"It is hard to conceive any one thing more like another than 
two winters passed in the higher latitudes of the polar regions, 
except when variety happens to be afforded by intercourse 
with some branch of the whole family of man. Winter 
after winter nature here assumes an aspect so much alike 
that cursory observation can scarcely detect a single feature 
of variety. The winter of more temperate climates, and even 
in some of no slight severity, is occasionally diversified by a 
thaw, which at once gives variety and comparative cheerful- 
ness to the prospect. But here, when once the earth is cov- 
ered, all is dreary monotonous whiteness, not merely for days 
or weeks, but for more than a half of a year together. Which- 
ever way the eye is turned, it meets a picture calculated to 
impress upon the mind an idea of inanimate stillness, of that 
motionless torpor with which our feelings have nothing con- 
genial; of anything, in short, but life. In the very silence there 
is a deadness with which a human spectator appears out of 
keeping. The presence of man seems an intrusion on the 
dreary solitude of this wintry desert, which even its native ani- 
mals have for a while forsaken." 

Happily, Lieutenant Hoppuer hit upon the idea of holding 

MASK BALLS. 

one each month, and great diversion was thereby afforded to 
both officers and men. In these masquerades Parry joined 
heartily and thus writes: 

"It is impossible that any idea could have proved more 
happy, or more exactly suited to our situation. Admirably 
dressed characters of various descriptions readily took their 
paHs, and many of these were supported with a degree of 
spirit and genuine good humor which would not have dis- 
graced a more refined assembly; while the latter might not 
12 



174 THE SEARCH FOE- THE NORTH POLE; 

have been disgraced bj' copying the good order, decorum and 
inoffensive cheerfulness which onr humble masquerades pre- 
sented. It does especial credit to the dispositions and good 
sense of our men, that though all the officers entered fully into 
the spirit of these amusements, which took place once a month 
alternately on board of each ship, no instance occurred of any- 
thing that could interfere with the regular discipline, or at 
all weaken the respect of the men toward their superiors. 
Ours were masquerades without licentiousness — carnivals 
without excess." 

In the course of their imprisonment Lieutenant J. C. Ross 
examined the shore northward to Cape York, and Lieutenant 
Sherer the coast line southward to Cape Kater, latitude 72° 13', 
while Commander Hoppner journeyed inland nearly two de- 
"orees over a deeply-ravined country to latitude 73° 19'. Lieu- 
tenant Foster, in establishing a meridian mark, found that he 
could carry on a conversation with his assistant at the dis- 
tance of a mile and two-tenths. The weather was serene and 
the temperature 18° below zero at the time. 

Many polar bears were seen in this region and twelve 
killed. On two occasions the 

MATERNAL AFFECTION 

of these brutes was show^n in the stubborn defense of their 
young, when they might have escaped. But while this quality 
is' highly developed in these creatures it must not be over- 
looked that hatred of each other is not wanting in their na- 
ture. Only a few years ago, in the Zoological Garden of Co- 
logne, there took place 

A MORTAL COMBAT 

between a couple of them. They had been captured five years 
previous, in Spitzbergen, and confined in a large pit contain- 
ing a tank in the center. A quarrel finally ensuing between 
them, the female took refuge upon a large rock in the corner 
of the pit, where she remained for three days. Pressed by 
hunger, she descended and was furiously assailed by the male 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 175 

bear. In attempting to separate the combatants the keepers 
belabored the head of the male with iron bars, but the bones 
being so much thicker than those of an ordinary bear, their 
blows were unavailing. , 

Continuing to spend his fur}^, the enraged beast tore the 
body of his companion 

INTO STRIPS OF BLEEDING FLESH, 

dragged her to the tank and held her beneath the water till he 
felt that life was extinct. Bringing the mangled mass again 
to the floor of the pit he then dragged it round the tank for 
nearly an hour. After this, he sought his , sleeping-den and 
the keepers immediately closed the iron bars upon him. The 
dead bear had received more than a hundred wounds, its neck 
and head being crushed to a jelly. During the conflict neither 
a cry nor any other sound was heard from either of the bears. 

Besides bears slain at Port Bowen, one or two foxes were 
killed and four trapped. One of these was tamed on board the 
"Fury." The color of its fur was nearly pure white, till, in 
May, it became a dirty chocolate containing two or three brown 
spots. But three Arctic hares were secured. The fur of these 
was thick and soft, and of a most beautiful whiteness. An 
ermine and a few moose were also killed and, in June, several 
hundred dovekies. In attempting to obtain some of these, 
John Cottrell, a seaman from the "Fury," was drowned through 
a crack in the ice. On the 12th of July a white whale was 
killed and the oil saved for use in the following winter. Hun- 
dreds of these creatures were seen in this part of the inlet. 

At last, on July 20th, the vessels sailed from Port Bowen, 
and, eight days later, were on the west shore of the inlet, off 
North Somerset. Here the "Hecla" became beset hj the ice 
and drifted with it for two days. A heavy gale on the 31st 
caused the "Hecla" to carry away three hawsers and the 
"Fury" to strand on the beach, but she was again hove off with 
high tide. Both ships now drifted down the inlet with the ice 
till they grounded. The "Fury" had been so strained that she 
leaked and four pumps kept constantly at work could not clear 



176 



THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



her of water. They were again tloated ou high tide, but the 
^^Fiirj^" was a second time driven on shore, and a second time, 
gotten off. Various attempts were now made to repair her, 
until, on the 21st, a gale drove her, for a third time, upon the 
shore. Here Parry reluctantlj^ abandoned her, and says: 
"Every endeavor of ours to get her off, or if got off, to float her 
to any known place of safety, would be at once utterly hope- 
less in itself and productive of extreme risk to our remaining 
ship." 

Incessant efforts to save her had been continued for twen- 
ty-five days. She was left alone just north of Greswell Bay. 

The "Hecla" now made her way to Neill's Harbor, a little 
south of Port Bowen, where she was put in readiness for re- 
crossing the Atlantic, While here, John Page, a seaman from 
the "Fury," died and was buried with due respect. Putting to 
sea on August 31st, the "Hecla" was in Baffin's Bay by Sep- 
tember 7th. Here from thirty to forty icebergs at least 200 
feet in height were sighted on its eastern side in latitude 75° 
?>()'. The "Hecla" continued toward England by way of the 
Orkney Islands and arrived in the Thames on the 20th of Oc- 
tober, but two men having been lost during the entire voyage 
of both vessels. 




iNOW VILLAGE 




Turf and Stone Huts.— Upernavik. 

(See pages 99, 100, etc.) 










■^ 




^^J^:^ 



(See Chapter XXIX.) 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WOxiLD. i77 



CHAPTER XI. 

FRANKLIN'S SECOND EXPEDITION AND THE VOYAGE 
OF THE "I5LOSSOM." 

Down the Mackenzie next became the watchwords of Frank- 
lin, Back, and Richardson as, returning from their almost life- 
taking descent of the Coppermine, the^^ volunteered to prose- 
cute further researches along the northern shore of Xorth 
America. With heroic ambition 

THE DYING WIFE 

of Franklin had presented him with a small silk iiag which 
she had made with her own hands, and bade him depart on the 
day set by the admiralty. When, on the following day, she 
l)assed away and the news of the sad event was brought to 
him, he manfully repressed his feelings of deep sorrow that 
his officers and men might not become disspirited, and x)ressed 
forward on his long journey to the Polar Sea. 

The officers of the expedition, having sailed from Liverpool 
to Xew York, proceeded through Canada where, at a point 
about 200 miles south of Lake Athabasca, they Joined the men 
who had come by way of Hudson's Bay and thence to the point 
stated, whence the entire party pushed on to Fort Chipewyan, 
on the west end of Lake Athabasca. Arriving here about the 
middle of July, Franklin obtained additional supplies and en- 
gaged the services of some of the Indians who had accompanied 
him on the preyious journey, and then proceeded to the Great 
Bear Lake, where winter-quarters were established in huts of 
wood and stone, and the place was named 

PORT FRANKLIN. 

While Lieutenant Back and Mr. Dease, an officer of the 



1.78 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Hudson's Bay Company, were engaged in the work of thus ar- 
ranging for the winter, Dr. Kichardson was sent to locate a 
suitable point upon the Coppermine to which he should ascend 
from the mouth of that river in the course of the following 
summer, while Franklin and a small party made a preliminary 
descent of 'the Mackenzie to its mouth. Says Franklin: "Im- 
mediately on reaching the sea, I caused to be hoisted 

THE SILK FLAG 

which my deeply-lamented wife had made and presented to me 
as a parting gift, under the express injunction that it was not 
to be unfurled until the expedition reached the sea. I will 
not attempt to describe my emotions as it expanded to the 
breeze; however natural and irresistible, I felt that it was 
my duty to suppress them, and that I had no right by an in- 
dulgence of my own sorrows to cloud the animated counte- 
nances of my companions. Joining, therefore, with the best 
grace I could command, in the general excitement, I endeav- 
ored to return with corresponding cheerfulness their warm 
congratulations on having thus planted the British flag on 
this remote island of the Polar Sea." 

Franklin returned to winter-quarters on the 5th of Sep- 
tember, from which time forward exploration was confined to 
territorj^ near at hand and until the 2Sth of June following, 
on which date Franklin and Back, with two boats and four- 
teen men, and Dr. Kichardson and Lieutenant Kendall, with 
two boats and ten men, began the descent of the Mackenzie, 
at the delta-like mouth of which they separated on the 3d of 
July, Richardson and Kendall proceeding eastward to the 
mouth of the Coppermine, while Franklin and Back directed 
their course westward in the hope of effecting a junction with 
Captain Beechey, who had been despatched in the "Blossom," 
by wa}^ of Cape Horn and Bering Strait, with instructions to 
proceed thence eastward in the endeavor to meet Franklin. 

At the mouth of the Mackenzie, Franklin's detachment fell 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 179 

iu with a large party of Eskimos, wlio, seizing Franklin, held 
him fast while his 

BOAT WAS PILLAGED. 

Fortunately^, Back came upon the scene, and, ordering his men 
to take aim with their muskets, the natives sued for peace and 
averted bloodshed. 

Continuing westward to longitude 149° 37' west, and failing 
to meet with any of Captain Beechey's party, although at that 
time Mr. Elson, leading a detachment from the "Blossom," was 
not distant 160 miles, Franklin decided to retrace his course. 
He was in part influenced to take this step through hearing that 
a tribe of hostile Indians were awaiting his advance. He had 
traced 374 miles of coast. Ascending the Mackenzie, he ar- 
rived at headquarters September 30th. 

Richardson and Kendall had reached there on the first of 
the month. They had, after leaving the mouth of the Macken- 
zie, proceeded 500 miles eastward through Dolphin and Union 
Strait, named after their boats, into Coronation Gulf, the out- 
let of the Coppermine, thus adding to the charts 902 miles of 
coast line. Ascending the Coppermine, the^^ arrived at Fort 
Franklin, as stated. 

Here, although the weather was intensely cold, the ther- 
mometer on one occasion sinking to 58° below zero, a second 
winter — 1826-7 — was spent in good cheer and good health. Dr. 
Richardson gave lectures on practical geology, while Mr. Drum- 
mond contributed information on natural history. Living iu 
a lonely hut on the Rocky Mountains, he contrived, in the 
course of the winter, to collect more than 200 specimens of 
animals, birds, etc., and to gather more than 1,500 plants, many 
of which had not been classified before. The results of the 
expedition were gratifying beyond expectation, and the party 
returned to England in the summer of 1827. 

While Parry was searching for the Northwest Passage for 
the third time, and endeavors to communicate with him by 
the Richardson and Kendall detachment of Franklin's second 
expedition were being prosecuted by way of the shore lying- 
east of the mouth of the Mackenzie River, Franklin and Back 



180 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

were striving to effect a junction to the westward of the mouth 
of that stream, with Captain F. W. Beeehey, who, in the gun- 
shif) ^'Blossom," had been despatched in May, 1825, by way of 

BERING'S STRAIT, 

in order to replenish the supplies of both Franklin and Parry, 
should they succeed in reaching those waters. Although but 
twenty-nine years of age, Beeehey had seen service with 
Franklin in 1818 and Parry in 1819, and was well qualified 
for his task. 

On the 28th of June, 1826, the "Blossom" anchored off 
Petro-paul-owsky, in Kamchatka, where he met Baron Wrau- 
gell, the great Arctic sledge traveler, from whom he learned 
of Parry's return to England. 

Coasting northward, the towering peaks of the peninsula, 
twenty-eight of them active volcanoes, were in plain view. 
Covered with snow, and many of them raising their fantastic 
summits from 10,000 to 1(;,.jOO feet high, huge columns of dark 
smoke waved and rolled like so many giants' banners in the 
air. 

Pressing on through the strait, he reached the appointed 
rendezvous at Chamisso Island, in Kotzebue Sound, on the 
25th of July. Here, on Puffin Rock, a barrel of flour was bur- 
ied, and then followed the surveying and examining of the 
coast lying to the northeast. Posts and other landmarks were 
erected and dispatches for Franklin deposited. 

A barge, or small boat, had been despatched under Messrs. 
Ekson and Smyth, to keep close to the shore the better to 
observe any traces of Franklin's party. On August 25th 

A REMARKABLE AURORA BOREALIS 

was observed, and Beeehey thus speaks concerning it: 

"It first appeared in an arch extending west-by-north to 
northeast; but the arch, shortly after its first appearance, 
broke up and entirely disappeared. Soon after this, however. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 131 

a new displaj^ began in the direction of the western foot of 
the first arch, preceded by a bright flame, from which ema- 
nated coruscations of a pale straw color. Another simulta- 
neous movement occurred at both extremities of the arch, 
until a complete segment w^as formed of wavering perpendic- 
ular radii. As soon as the arch was complete the light became 
greatly increased, and the prismatic colors, which had before 
been faint, now shone forth in a brilliant manner. The strong- 
est colors, which were also the outside ones, were pink and 
green, on the green side purple and pink, all of which were 
as imperceptibly blended as in the rainbow. The green was 
the color nearest the zenith. This magnificent display lasted 
a few minutes; and the light had nearly vanished, when the 
northeast quarter sent forth a vigorous display, and nearly 
at the same time a corresponding coruscation emanated from 
the opposite extremity. The western foot of the arch then 
disengaged itself from the horizon, crooked to the northward, 
and the whole retired to the northeast quarter, where a bright 
spot blazed for a moment, and all was darkness. There was 
no noise audible daring any part of our observations." 
Strangeh^ too, the compasses were not perceptibly affected. 

On the 28th the ''Blossom" returned to Chamisso Island 
and found that the barrel of flour had been dug up and appro- 
priated by the natives. Beechey had met some of these peo- 
ple as he entered the strait. They were very familiar with 
the region, and with a stick designated upon the sand the 
coast line as far as Cape Krusenstern, regulating distances by 
the daj^'s journey. Elevations of sand or stones represented 
hills and ranges of mountains, while collections of pebbles indi- 
cated groups of islands, their relative sizes being carefully 
shown, yillages and fishing-stations along the coast were 
designated by means of sticks placed upright, in imitation of 
the poles erected wdierever these people have their abode. 

Meanwhile, Elson and Smyth had advanced northeastward 
until, on the 22d, their progress was stopped by a long point 
of land, named by Beechey, Point Barrow. They were then 



182 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

but 146 miles from Iveturn Reef, wbeDce Franklin bad set out 
on bis return to Fort Enterprise, but four days previous. 

THE HOSTILE ATTITUDE 

of tbe natives now prevented Elson's fartber progress, and 
be and bis seven companions tberefore retraced tlieir course, 
rejoining tbe ''Blossom" on tbe 9tb of September at Cbamisso 
Island. Here Beecbej again buried a barrel of flour for Frank- 
lin and, witb but five weeks' provisions remaining, sailed for 
California, and tbe Sandwicb and otber islands of tbe Pacific, 
w^bere be resupplied tbe "Blossom" and returned to Cbamisso 
Island on July 5, 1827. 

Tbe flour and dispatcbes deposited tbe previous year bad 
not been molested. Lieutenant Belcber was sent witb tbe 
barge to explore tbe coast to tbe nortbward, but tbe boat was 
wrecked and tbree of tbe men were lost. On tbe 9tb of Sep- 
tember, tbe "Blossom" went aground, but was got off safely 
at bigb tide. On tbe 29tb a conflict ensued between tbe sbip's 
crew and tbe Eskimos, in wbicli seven of tbe wbites were 
wounded witb arrows, and one Eskimo was killed. On tbe 6tb of 
October, tbe "Blossom" sailed from Cbamisso Island, rounding 
Cape Horn in a snow-storm on tbe last day of June, 1828, 
and arrived in England on tbe 12tb of October following, after 
an absence of nearly tbree years and five montbs. Franklin 
bad preceded bim a year. 




LAMP. 
The mending done by Eskii 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 18^] 



CHAPTER XII. 

PARRY'S FOURTH VOYAGE. 

Although but a few months home from his third Arctic 
voyage, Parry, iu 1S2G, striiclv with the suggestions of 
Scoresby in a paper read before the Weruerian Society and 
the plan of Franklin proposed some time previous, offered 
his services to the Admiralty to undertake a fourth voyage, 
this time in quest of the 

NORTH POLE, 

by way of the Spitzbergen group of islands. True to their 
young leader, and sharing his enthusiasm, his former com- 
panions gathered round his standard. These were Lieutenants 
J. 0. Ross, Foster, Bird, and Crozier, and Messrs. Halse and 
Beverly. The crew being appointed, the expedition sailed in 
the "Hecla," April 4, 1827. 

On the 19tli Hammerfest Harbor was reached, and here 
Parry and Lieutenant Foster remained to prosecute magnetic 
and other scientific studies, while Lieutenant Crozier pro- 
ceeded to Alten, sixty miles distant, to procure reindeer, eight 
of which were purchased for the purpose of drawing the 
sledges over the ice of the Arctic Ocean. 

Concerning these animals, Parry thus writes: 
"Nothing can be more beautiful than the training of the 
Lapland reindeer. With a simple collar of skin around his 
neck, a single tface of the same material attached to the 
sledges and passing between his legs, and one rein fastened 
like a halter about his neck, this intelligent and docile animal 



184 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

is perfectly under the command of an experienced driver, and 
performs 

ASTONISHING JOURNEYS 

over tlie softest snow. When the rein is thrown over on the off 
side of the animal, he immediately sets off at a full trot, and 
stops short the instant it is thrown back to the near side. 
Shaking the rein over his back is the only Avhip that is re- 
quired. In a short time after setting off they appear to be 
gasping for breath, as if quite exhausted; but, if not driven 
too fast at first, they recover, and then go on without difficulty. 
The quantity of clean moss considered requisite for each deer 
per day is four pounds; but they will go five or six days with- 
out provender and not suffer materially. As long as they can 
pick up snow as they go along, which they like to eat quite 
clean, they require no water, and ice is to them a comfortable 
bed." 

Again setting sail on the 29th, they arrived, on May 5th, 
in latitude 73° 30', and longitude 7° 28' east, Avhere they met 
loose ice. Two days later the "Ilecla" had made 110 miles 
farther northward, in latitude 74° 55', and a few miles east of 
the meridian of Mreeuwich. Here was met a continuous stream 
of ice. On the 10th, Parry fell in with some whaling-vessels 
which were endeavoring to reach latitude 78°, south of which 
it w^as not expected that whales could be found. During the 
night the "Hecla" and the whalers made fifty miles north- 
ward. On the 14th the ^'Ilecla" passed Magdalena Bay, and, 
arriving off Ilakluyt Headland, worked thence southeastward 
to Smerenburg Harbor, wliich they found completely frozen 
over. Here they saw walruses, dovekies and eider-ducks in 
vast numbers. Four wild reindeer came to them on the ice. 

May 22d, Lieutenant James C. Ross, with officers and men, 
effected a landing over the ice, and, upon a hillock, found two 
lonely graves dated 1741 and 1762. A quantity of fir drift- 
wood was also seen. ^ 

Five days later an attempt was made to proceed north- 
ward by means of the sledge-boats, but was given up on ac- 
count of the extreme roughness of the ice. On the 29th and 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 185 

30tli, Lieiiteuauts Foster and Crozier deposited a boat-load of 
provisions on Red Beach, six miles distant. 

B}^ the first of June, as Parry was about to undertake 
again the journey northward, the ^'Hecla" began to move east 
with the drift-ice and reached Mussel Bay on the 6th, where 
Parry and Ouliers landed to deposit provisions. Two days 
later the vessel was again free of ice by reason of a south 
wind. During the three weeks previous the weather had been 
beautiful, day after day being clear and cloudless, with scarcely 
au}^ wind, the temperature of the air being warm, while the 
sun was scorching. 

On June 3d a shower of rain fell, and on the 0th it rained 
quite hard for two or three hours. 

From the 8th to the 10th the weather was ^'thick," and 
Parry made for Brandy wine Bay, with Low and Walden 
islands in sight. Thence the "Hecia" pushed northward to 
80° 43' 32", the Seven Islands being seen to the east, while 
the Little Table Island, a mere crag 400 feet high, was visible 
nine or ten miles to the east-northeast, "This island," writes 
Parry, "being the northernmost known land in the world, 
naturally excited much of our curiosit^' ; and bleak and barren 
and rugged as it is, one could not help gazing at it with 
intense interest." 

At midnight, on the 14th, the explorers were in latitude 
81° 5' 32", and longitude 19° 34' east. Doubling back they 
deposited provisions on Walden and Little Table islands. Pro- 
ceeding still southward they arrived on the 20th near Ver- 
legen Hood — so called by the Dutch — but named by Parry 
Ilecla Cove. This was in latitude 79° 55', and longitude 16° 49' 
east. From this harbor two boats, the "Enterprise" and "En- 
deavor," w^ere made ready for another attempt to proceed 
northward. Parry and Dr. Beverly accompanied one of the 
boats, while Lieutenant Ross and Mr. Bird went with the 
other. Lieutenant Crozier accompanied the party with a 
supply of provisions as far as Walden and Low islands. Ar- 
riving at Little Table Island on the 23d, Parry, at 10:30 p. m., 
started on the memorable journey that established the then 



186 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

"farthest uorth." By miduiglit the party had attained lati- 
tude 80° 51' 13", and by noou of the 24tli, latitude 81° 12' 51". 
Not until a month later, viz., on July 23d, did these persistent 
men attain the farthest northerly point then reached by man, 
82° 45'. In making this journey they had been absent thirty- 
three days, and what they encountered is best told in the 
language of the never-discouraged Parry: "Traveling by 
night, and sleeping bj^ day, so completely inverted the natural 
order of things that it was difficult to persuade ourselves of the 
reality. Even the officers and myself, who were all furnished 
with pocket chronometers, could not always bear in mind at 
what part of the twenty-four hours we had arrived, and there 
were several of the men who declared, and I believe truly, that 
they never knew night from day during the whole excursion. 

"When we rose in the evening, we commenced our day by 
praj-ers, after which we took off our fur sleeping-dresses and 
put on clothes for traveling; the former being made of camlet, 
lined with raccoon skin, and the latter of strong blue cloth. 
We made a point of always putting on the same stockings 
and boots for traveling in, whether the3' had been dried dur- 
ing the da}^ or not, and I believe it was only in five or six 
instances at the most that thej' were not either still wet or 
hard frozen. This, indeed, was of no consequence beyond the 
discomfort of first putting them on in this state, as they were 
sure to be thoroughlj^ wet in a quarter of an hour after com- 
mencing our journey; while on the other hand, it was of 
vital importance to keep dry things for sleeping in. Being 
'rigged' for traveling, we breakfasted upon warm cocoa and bis- 
cuit, and after stowing the things in the boats and on the 
sledges so as to secure them as much as possible from wet, we 
set off on our day's journey, and usually traveled four, five, or 
even six hours, according to circumstances." 

Halting early in the morning for rest, "Every man then 
immediately put on dry stockings and fur boots, after which 
we set about the necessary repairs of boats, sledges, or clothes, 
and after serving the provisions for the succeeding daj^, we 
went to supper. Most of the officers and men then smoked 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 1S7 

their pipes, which served to dry the boats and awnings very 
much, and usually raised the temperature of Our lodgings 10" 
or 15°. This part of the twenty-four hours was often a time, 
and the only one, of real enjoyment to us; the men told their 
stories and fought all their battles o'er again, and the labors 
of the day, unsuccessful as they too often were, were forgot- 
ten. A regular watch was set during our resting time, to 
look out for bears, or for the ice breaking up round us, as well 
as to attend to the drying of the clothes, each man alternately 
taking this duty for one hour. We then concluded our day 
with prayers, and having put on our fur dresses, lay down to 
sleep with a degree of comfort which perhaps but few per- 
sons would imagine possible under such circumstances, our 
chief inconvenience being that we were somewhat pinched for 
room, and therefore obliged to stow rather closer than was 
quite agreeable." 

On the day following their attainment of the farthest north, 
Lieutenant Koss killed a she bear, the flesh of which was 
eagerly eaten by the meat-hungry men. Thus far animal life 
appeared to be scarce, a single gull, a solitary rotge, two seals, 
and 

TWO FLIES 

being all that they had seen during the entire outward journey. 
Owing to the drifting of the ice, the partj^ were at this time 
being carried backward faster than they could advance north- 
v\'ard, and, according!}^, Parry began the return journey on 
July 27th, arriving finally, on the 21st of August, oiice more 
cm board the "Hecla," after an absence of sixt3'-one days, dur- 
ing which time they had traveled, all told, 1,127 statute miles. 
-On the return journey an abundance of animal life was visible. 
On August 8th seven or eight narwhales were seen, and not 
less than 200 rotges, or little auks, a flock of which occurred 
in every hole of water. On the 11th, in latitude 81° 30', the 
sea was observed to be crowded with shrimps and other sea 
crustaceans, on which numerous birds were feeding. 

Returning to England in September, Parry retired from 



188 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Arctic service, tboiigh alwa^^s taking great interest in every- 
tliiug that pertained to the solution of tlie ])iobleui for which 
he had made five voyages, in four of which he had commanded, 
and in the other one had been second in command. As late 
as 1845 we find him addressing Sir John Barrow as follows: 

"It is evident that the causes of failure in our former 
attempt, in the year 1827, were principally two: first, and 
chiefly, the broken, rugged, and soft state of the ice over which 
we traveled; and secondly, the drifting of the whole body of 
ice in a southerly direction. 

''My amended plan is to go out with a single ship to Spitz- 
bergen, just as we did in the 'Hecla,' but not so early in the 
season; the object for that year being merely to find secure 
winter quarters as far north as possible. For this purpose it 
would only be necessary to reach Hakluyt's Headland by the 
end of June, which would afford ample leisure for examining 
the more northern lands, especially about the Seven Islands, 
where, in all probabilit}, a secure nook might be found for 
the ship. * * * The winter might be usefully emploj^ed 
in various preparations for the journey, as well as in mag- 
netic, astronomical, and meteorological observations, of high 
interest in that latitude. I propose that the expedition should 
leave the ship in the course of the month of April, when the 
ice would present one hard and unbroken surface, over which, 
as I confidently believe, it would not be difficult to make good 
thirty miles per day, without any exposure to wet, and prob- 
ably without snow-blindness. At this season, too, the ice 
would probably be stationary, and thus the two great difficul- 
ties which we formerly had to encounter would be entirely 
obviated. It might form a part of the plan to push out sup- 
plies previously, to the distance of 100 miles, to be taken up 
on the way, so as to commence the journey comparatively 
light; and as the intention would be to complete the enter- 
prise in the course of the month of May, before any disruption 
of the ice, or any material softening of the surface had taken 
place, similar supplies miglit be sent out to the same distance, 
to meet the party on their return." 



OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 



18!) 



This plan, it seems to tlie writer of these pages, is a good 
one, and it is to be regretted that the long experience of the 
energetic Parry could not have executed it. His advanced 
years, doubtless, alone prevented his undertaking it. This 
gallant knight of the sea and ice survived till 1855. 




GAME OF CUP AND BALL. 



13 



190 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



CHAPTER XIII. 

SECOND VOYAGE OF SIR JOHN ROSS.— DISCOVERY OF 
THE NORTH MAGNETIC POLE. 

Deeply cliagriued at the failure of his efforts in 1818, Cap- 
tain Johu Koss, the pioneer of Arctic exploration in the nine- 
teenth century, vainly endeavored to induce the government 
to send him again on a polar voyage. Notwithstanding the 
ignominj^ then attaching, to his professional name, for ten years 
he persevered and si)ent |15,000 of his own fortune in the 
prosecution of his object. He had fought with bravery and 
skill during the war with the French, from 1793-1815, and 
was determined to win laurels as an Arctic explorer as well. 

Finally, he found an able supporter in the person of Felix 
Booth, a man of wealth and public spirit. Through him, Ross 
was enabled to purchase a side-wheel steamer of 150 tons 
burden and to provision it for three years. 

The generosity of Booth deserves double emphasis from 
the fact that, at his own request, the Parliamentary reward of 
|100,000 for the discovery of the Northwest Passage was re- 
voked, that he might not be charged with mercenary motives. 

Thus did Ross anticipate the use of steam in Arctic navi- 
gation, this being the first time that a tHal was made of it 
for that purpose, and although the machinery in Ross' vessel 
was soon found to be unserviceable it but served to illustrate 
the utility of steam with proper application. 

The expedition numbered twenty-eight men and sailed on 
board the "Victory," May 23, 1829. Previous to her departure 
the ship was 

VISITED BY MANY NOTABLES. 

among them being Louis Philippe, the future king of the 
French, 



OR, LIFE IN THE GRE'AT WHITE WORLD. 191 

Arriving off the coast of Greenland about the middle of 
June, the "Victory" put in at the Danish settlement of Hol- 
steinberg, where damaged spars and rigging were repaired. 
Again sailing on the 26th, the sea was found clear in Baftin's 
Bay, Lancaster Sound, and well down into Prince Regent's 
Inlet. Here, on August 12th, a formidable barrier of ice was 
encountered. On the next day the place where the "Fury" had 
been abandoned four years previous, was reached, and al- 
though no traces of Parry's old ship were to be found, her 
stores still remained in perfect condition on shore. From these 
the "Victory" replenished her supplies for three years from 
date, besides leaving a considerable quantity for possible fu- 
ture navigators. 

By the end of September, 300 miles of heretofore undis- 
covered coast had been explored. A landing having been 
effected, the territory was named 

BOOTHIA FELIX, 

with Bellot Strait on the north, the Gulf of Boothia on the 
east, and Franklin Strait on the northwest. 

Mary Jones' Bay having been discovered on the east coast 
of this new territory, here, in Felix Harbor, 

WINTER-QUARTERS 

were established on September 17, 1829. 

They were soon frozen in and nothing of unusual interest 
occurred until, on January 9, 1830, the "Victor}^" was visited 
by a very large party of Eskimos. They were of neater ap- 
pearance than those who had visited Parry farther south and 
were familiar with the geograph}' of the region in a very 
intelligible manner. The women displayed a higher degree 
of intelligence in this respect than the men. As Parry met his 
Ig-loo-lik, so Ross found his Te-rik-sin, as the gifted female 
geographers of those regions. 

On April 5th Captain Ross, with Thomas Blanky and two 
Eskimo guides, set out to explore a strait reported to lead 



192 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Avestward, and wliieli, it was hoped, eoiiiiiiiiiiicated with the 
western sea. On the 8th the party came to a large bay instead, 
and this, facing west, opened into the sea. In the interior, a 
large lake, called Nie-ty-le by the natives, was discovered. 
On this jonrney Captain Koss, as was afterwards ascertained, 
approached to within ten miles of the North Magnetic Pole. 
Learning that no strait existed farther sonth, Ross neverthe- 
less traced the coast about sixt}^ miles in that direction. 

On the 17th of May Lieutenant James Clark lioss, nepnew 
to the Captain and second in command of the expedition, set 
out with three companions and a sledge drawn by eight dogs, 
for the i)urpose of making explorations farther west. Cross- 
ing the ice on a strait, which has since been called in his 
honor, young Ross discovered Matty Island, and, still farther 
westward, 

KING WILLIAM'S LAND, 

reaching its northernmost point on May 20th. This he named 
Cape Felix, and from it beheld, in the northwest, the wide ex- 
panse of sea now known as McClintock Channel, and, in the 
southwest, a channel which he called Victoria Strait. Along 
this last mentioned he now proceeded to a headland which 
was named Point Victory, a more distant one being honored 
with the name of Franklin. 

Distant now 200 miles from the ship and with but few 
provisions left, this brave young scientist, after having erected 
a cairn and deposited therein the customary records, set out 
on the return. To such straits were they now reduced that 
six of the dogs perished from exhaustion and doubtless they 
themselves were saved from the same fate through meeting 
with a tribe of Eskimos, who supplied them with fresh fish 
and among whom they rested a day before proceeding to the 
ship, which they reached on May 13th. 

Not until September ITtli, after an imprisonment of eleven 
months, was the ^^A^ictory" again free of ice. Unfortunately, 
she advanced but a few miles when the ice of another season 
held her fast and winter quarters were again made ready. 



°V-^ 'S,, '^^ 



'''* W ! aW i ) i i4 H >i ^r ^ aiiiitfftg" 





nJ \^^ rl^, Bucking Ice. (2^ Soutli Greenland Boy (with ptarmigans) and 
birl (3.) Tlie Captain in tiie "Crow's Nest,' or Barrel with Trap-door Bottom 

v^°t^\-'^'' ^ k''^'''^^'''J}llP'^■■ ^'^■^ The Ship's Pet. (5.) Little Orphan Boj of 
Etah Eskimo. (6.) An Etah Eskimo. 




(1 ) The Ship and Her Image ou a Quiet Day in Melville Bay. 
in Baffin's Bay. (3.) _Baffin's Bay Iceberg. (+,) Iceberg. (5.) 



"e.) Eskimo Summer Encampment of Sealskin Tents or '• Tu-picks." 



(2.) Iceberg seen 
Blasting tiie Ice. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 193 

The winter was one of great severity, tlie thermometer sink- 
ing to 60° below zero. 

In the ensning spring of 1831, a number of exploring trips 
were undertaken, and in one of them the younger Koss . 

DISCOVERED THE NORTH MAGNETIC POLE. 

He says: "The place of the observatory was as near to the 
magnetic pole as the limited means which I possessed enabled 
me to determine. The amount of the dip, as indicated by my 
dipping-needle, was 89° 59', being thus within one minute of 
the vertical ; while the proximity, at least, of this pole, if not 
its actual existence where we stood, was further confirmed 
by the action, or rather by the total inaction, of the several 
liorizontal needles then in m,y possession. 

"As soon," he continues, "as I had satisfied my own mind 
on the subject, I made known to the party this gratifying re- 
sult of all our joint labors; and it was then that, amidst mu- 
tual congratulations, we fixed the 

BRITISH FLAG ON THE SPOT, 

and took possession of the North Magnetic Pole and its ad- 
joining territory in the name of Great Britain and King Wil- 
liam IV. We had abundance of materials for building in the 
fragments of limestone that covered the beach, and we there- 
fore erected a cairn of some magnitude, under which we buried 
a canister containing a record of the interesting fact, only 
regretting we had not the means of constructing a ])yramid 
of more importance, and of strength sufficient to withstand 
the assaults of time and of the Esquimaux. Had it been a 
pja'amid as large as that of Cheops, I am not quite sure that 
it would have done more than satisfy our ambition under the 
feelings of that exciting day." 

Thus, on the 1st of June, 1831, in latitude 70° 5' 17", and 
longitude 96° 46' 45" west, did the British establish a rightful 
claim to a great" and important discovery, and what American, 
reading the accounts and perceiving the enthusiasm of our 



194 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

cousins on the other side of the Atlantic in all snch enter- 
prises, can restrain wishing for the 

STARS AND STRIPES 

still greater triumphs? 

On this journey Ross was absent twenty-eight days. 

Once more, on August 28th, the "Victory" stood clear of 
ice but was unable to make good more than four miles of navi- 
gation when, on September 27th, she was completely beset. 
Thus, in two years, she had progressed but seven miles. 

A third winter was accordingly spent in the same locality, 
and when spring arrived, it was decided to abandon the "Vic- 
tory" and, obtaining supplies and boats on Fury Beach, to 
make for the waters of Baffin's Bay in the expectancy of there 
meeting with some whaling-vessel. On the 23d of April, 1832, 
the party therefore started for the Beach. Heav^- laden and 
encountering much snow and drift, they were compelled to 
make long circuits, so that to gain thirty miles in a straight 
line they were compelled to travel three hundred twenty-nine. 

The "Victory" was not formally abandoned, however, till 
May 29th, on which date, with colors flying from her mast- 
head, Captain Koss took leave of her, he being the last to 
depart. Me says: "It was the first vessel that I had ever been 
obliged to abandon, after having served in thirty-six, during 
a period of forty-two years. It was like the last parting with 
an old friend, and I did not pass the point where she ceased 
to be visible without stopping to take a sketch of this mel- 
ancholy desert, rendered more melancholy by the solitary, 
abandoued, helpless home of our past years, fixed in immov- 
able ice till time should perform on her his usual work." 

On July 1st the entire party reached Fury Beach, and, 
erecting a large tent, styled it "Somerset House." A month 
later they had crossed Prince Regent's Inlet and arrived at 
the entrance to Lancaster Sound, which they found so blocked 
with ice that they were compelled to return to "Somerset 
House." This they reached on October 9th, and here spent 
a fourth winter. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 195 

The tent was rendered more comfortable by means of an 
embankment of snow and an additional stove. Although 
there was a reduction of the regular allowance of preserved 
meats, there was plenty of flour, sugar, soups, and vegetables. 
During the winter Mr. Thomas, the carpenter, and two others 
died. 

On the 8th of Jul}^ following, the party again took their 
departure from "Somerset House," and, forty-six days later, 
arrived in Baffin's Bay, at Nav}^ Board Inlet. Here a joyful 
surprise awaited them. At 4 o'clock on the morning of August 
20th, a vessel hove in sight. Quickly the exhausted men roused 
themselves and sprang to their oars as men escaping from 
great peril. Alas! like a phantom the ship suddenl}^ disap- 
peared in the haze and they were fast sinking into despair 
when another vessel was espied lying in a calm. With hearts 
beating between hope and fear, and their gaze steadfastly 
fixed upon the stately form, they kept up a hurried and ener- 
getic stroke of the oar until — with joy unbounded — they 
had reached the whaler "Isabella," of Hull, the very ship in 
which Ross, fifteen 3^ears before, had made his first polar 
voyage. 

With difficulty were those on board the whaler persuaded 
that it was indeed Ross and his English companions who 
sought admission on the ship; for, had they not been mourned 
as dead these two years by their friends in England? 

When, however, the honest whalers were convinced of the 
truthfulness of their story, the rigging was quickly manned in 
their honor, and with three rousing cheers Captain Ross and 
party were welcomed on board the "Isabella." What followed 
is vividly described by Ross himself: "Though we had not 
been supported by our names and characters we should not 
the less have claimed from charity the attention that we re- 
ceived; for never were seen a more 

MISERABLE SET OF WRETCHES. 

Unshaven, since I know not when, dirty, dressed in the rags 
of wild beasts, and starved to the very bones, our gaunt and 



196 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

grim looks, when contrasted with those of the well-dressed 
and well-fed men around us, made us all feel — I believe for the 
first time — what we really were, as well as what we seemed to 
others. But the ludicrous soon took the place of all other 
feelings; in such a crowd and such confusion all serious 
thought was impossible, while the new buovanc}^ of our spir- 
its made us abundantly willing to be amused by the scene 
which now opened. Every man was hungry, and was to be 
fed; all were ragged, and were to be clothed; there was not 
one to whom washing was not indispensable, nor one whom 
his beard did not deprive of all human semblance. All — 
everything, too, was to be done at once; it was washing, dress- 
ing, shaving, eating, all intermingled. It was all the materials 
of each jumbled together, while in the midst of all there 
were interminable questions to be asked and answered on 
both sides; the adventures of the ''Victory," our own escapes, 
the politics of England, and the news, which was now four 
years old. But all subsided into peace at last. The sick were 
accommodated, the seamen disposed of, and all was done for 
us which care and kindness could perform. Night at length 
brought quiet and serious thought, and I trust there was not 
a man among us who did not then express, where it was due, 
his gratitude for that iuter])osition which had raised us all 
from a despair which none could now forget, and had brought 
us from the borders of a most distant grave to life, and friends, 
and civilization. Long accustomed, however, to a cold bed 
on the hard snow, or the bare rocks, few could sleep amid 
the comforts of our new accommodations. I was myself com- 
pelled to leave the bed which had been kindly assigned me, 
and take my abode in a chair for the night; nor did it fare 
much better witli the rest. It was for time to reconcile us 
to this sudden change, to break through what had become 
habit, and to inure us once more to the usages of our former 
da^^s." 

By the middle of October the entire party were in England, 
where Ross received the freedom of her leading cities and 
was knighted by the king, and received a grant of |25,000 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 



197 



from Parliament. In 1851 be became Kear AdmiraL His deatb 
occurred five years later. 

His nepbew, James C. Koss, was promoted to a captaincy, 
and from 1839 to 1843 conducted tbe famous Antarctic expedi- 
tion, in tbe course of w^bicb be approacbed to witbin 160 miles 
of tbe Soutb Magnetic Pole, computed to be in soutb latitude 
G6°, and east longitude 146°. He, too, was made a knigbt. 




SHOOTING THE FIRST MUSK-OX. WEST COAST OF GREENLAND. 



198 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



CHAPTER XIV. 

EXPEDITIONS OF CAPTAIN BACK AND MESSRS. DEASE^ 

AND SIMPSON. 

After Ross had been absent for two years, with no intel- 
ligence of his whereabouts, Dr. Richardson first directed public 
attention towards his probable fate and volunteered to go to 
his relief. The government was solicited to lend a helping 
hand, but being slow to act, 

A POPULAR SUBSCRIPTION 

was started, and .^20,000 raised, to which the government 
added |10,000. Captain Back, the veteran of two overland 
journeys to the north coast of North America in company 
with Franklin and Richardson, volunteered his services, and 
was placed in command. 

Accompanied by Dr. Richard King as naturalist, and three 
men who had been with Franklin in 1825, Back arrived in 
New York in the latter part of March, 1833. 

Proceeding to Montreal, he then journeyed to Fort Chip- 
ewyan, on the west end of Lake Athabasca, where he arrived 
July 20th. During this part of the journey'' the part}^ were 
dreadfully tormented by sand-flies, mosquitoes, and horse-flies, 
so that their faces streamed with blood, the ensuing pain and 
irritation producing giddiness and causing them to moan with 
pain and agony. 

Leaving Fort Chipewyan, a journey of nineteen days 
brought them to Fort Resoluti(m, on Great Slave Lake. In 
the course of this long march Back w^as joined by a 

MOTLEY CROWD 

consisting of "an Englishman, a man from Stornoway, two 
Canadians, two Metifs, or half-breeds, and three Iroquois In- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 199 

dians. Babel could uot have produced a worse confusion of 
inharmonious sounds than was the conversation they kept 
up." The Stornow^ay man was A. R. MacLeod, and was ac- 
companied by his wife, three children and a servant. He was 
a member of the great MacLeod family, Isle of Lewis, and who, 
along with the MacAulays, have long dwelt side by side in the 
fishing hamlets of Islivig and Braenish, in which latter place 
was born the great-grandfather of the eminent historian, 
Macaula}. 

Some years since, it was the writer's good fortune to visit 
this locality, as well as the ancient and historic Stornoway, 
in which, while visiting the school, was learned that here was 
born the afterwards-celebrated Sir Alexander Mackenzie, 
whose services we have already mentioned in these pages. 

Leaving MacLeod and all but four men, Captain Back pro- 
ceeded in a northeasterly direction from Fort Resolution in 
search of the Thlew-ee-Choh, or Great Fish, now called Back 
River. 

Forests, swamps, portages, streams, lakelets, rapids and 
cascades impeded their progress until, on August 2Tth, from 
a hilltop, Back saw the wide expanse of water now^ known 
as Lake Aylmer. Two days later three of Back's men reached 
this lake by means of a canoe, while Back searched for and 
found Sand Hill, or Sussex Lake, the source of the great river 
toward which he was traveling. 

Returning to Great Slave Lake, its northeastern extremity 
was reached by the middle of September. Here MacLeod and 
party had erected a comfortable house, fifty by thirty feet in 
dimensions, containing four rooms, a central hall where were 
received their Indian visitors, and a more rudely constructed 
kitchen. 

FORT RELIANCE 

was the name given to the encampment. Meanwhile, Dr. King 
arrived with a large supply of provisions. 

The winter was a severe one, the thermometer sinking to 
seventy degrees below zero. Food became scarce, but the 
faithful Chief A-kai-tcho and his hardy hunters managed to 



200 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

secure considerable game, which was generously shared with 
the strangers. ''The great chief/' said Akaitcho, "trusts in 
us, and it is better that ten Indians should perish than that one 
white man should perish through our negligence and breach 
of faith." 

On February 14, 1834, MacLeod moved his family nearer 
the hunting-grounds, where six of the natives near him died 
of starvation, his own family barely escaping the same fate. 

April 25th a messenger arrived at Fort lleliance announc- 
ing the safe arrival of Captain Koss and party in England. 
Says Back: "In the fulness of our hearts we assembled to- 
gether and humbly 

OFFERED UP OUR THANKS 

to that merciful Providence, who, in the beautiful language 
of Scripture hath said: 'Mine own will I bring again, as I 
did some time from the deeps of the sea.' The thoughts of so 
wonderful a preservation overpowered for a time the common 
occurrences of life. We had just sat down to breakfast, but 
our appetites were gone, and the da}^ was passed in a feverish 
state of excitement." 

Captain Back now directed his energies toward the explo- 
ration of the Great Fish Kiver. He sent in advance Mr. Mac- 
Leod and faniih^ for the purpose of hunting and depositing 
the game secured. On June Ttli he, too, set out with Dr. King 
and five men and soon came upon the boat-builders, whom he 
had also despatched in advance. Taking the best of the boats 
he had it fitted with runners, as Parry had done in 1827. 

On the 14th, with six dogs drawing the boat-sledge, he 
took a fresh start and came upon a cache of deer and musk-ox 
flesh. On the 2.3tli a second store was met with, eleven animals 
having been left in the two depots. 

That there might be no partiality shown in the matter oi 
food. Back ordered that the rations of himself and officers 
should contain an equal share of the objectionable musk-ox 
flesh. 

On the 2Tth MacLeod was overtaken, and on the next day 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 201 

the boat was launched upon the great river, MacLeod and 
thirteen men having been sent bacl^: to Fort Resolution to 
take charge of supplies to be forwarded from the Hudson Bay 
Company's stations, to establish a fishery, to erect a suitable 
building for winter quarters, and then to return to the Great 
Fish River by the middle of September to render assistance 
to his own party upon its return to that point. 

On July 8th, with ten companions, and 3,360 pounds of 
provisions. Back started on his voyage down the river. The 
first hundred miles were a series of rapids and cascades. On 
the 28th, a 

LARGE TRIBE OF ESKIMOS 

was met with and greatly assisted them in making the last 
long portage. Arriving at the mouth of the river, Back 
descried a headland, to which he gave the name Victoria. 

Thus the party had descended a tortuous stream for 530 
miles, including five large lakes, eighty-three falls, rapids, and 
cascades, and now stood overlooking a wide expanse of the 
Polar Sea, in latitude 07° 11' north, but thirty-seven miles 
farther south than the mouth of the Coppermine River. 

Back reached, as the terminus of his voyage, latitude 68° 
13' 57", and gave to the name of a headland seen on the north- 
west shore of the estuar^^, in latitude 68° 4()', Cape Richardson. 

Returning, the party arrived at the source of the river on 
September 16th, where they met MacLeod, with the much- 
needed supplies. 

On the 27th all reached Fort Reliance, where Back and 
six of the party passed the winter, MacLeod and all others 
maintaining themselves at the fishing-station. 

On March 21, 1835, Captain Back set out upon his return to 
England, by way of Canada and New York, arriving in Liver- 
pool September 8th, after an absence of nearly two years and 
seven months. A month later Dr. King and others arrived 
by way of the Hudson's Bay route. 

For his services Captain Back was awarded a gold medal 
and a post captaincy in the navy. 

Nine months after his return from this journey, at the 



202 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

siiggestiou of the (Jeographical Society, be was again sent out 

IN THE "TERROR," 

in which he was to proceed to Repulse Bay, or the Wager 
liiver, and thence to malie an overland journey to the bottom 
of Prince Regent's Inlet and to send other parties to Fury 
and Hecla Strait, and, if possible, to Franklin's Point Turn- 
again. 

Arriving at Salisbury Island, in the northern part of Hud- 
son's Bay, on the 14th of August 1836, the vessel was soon 
frozen in. 

From December to March, inclusive, the "Terror" drifted 
about in a crazy and helpless manner. 

On Jul}^ 10, 1837, the ice put her on her beam ends, in 
which manner she rested until on the 14th she suddenly 
righted herself. The vessel had been so greatly disabled that 
Captain Back returned at once to England. The "Terror," 
however, was destined to be heard of in connection with an- 
other polar voyage. 

Sent by the Hudson's Bay Company to complete the survey 
of the north coast, left untouched by Franklin, Beechey and 
Back in their several journe3^s and voyages, 

MESSRS. DEASE AND SIMPSON, 

in July, 1837, descended the Mackenzie River, and, by August 
4th, Simpson had proceeded from Franklin's Return Reef 146 
miles westward to a point just beyond Point Barrow, whence 
Elson had returned to the "Blossom" in 1826, On this journey 
Simpson 

DISCOVERED THE GARRY AND COLVILLE RIVERS. 

Returning to the Great Bear Lake, the winter was spent at 
Fort Confidence, and, on June 6, 1838, the ascent of the Dease 
River, which empties into the Great Bear Lake from the north, 
was begun. The Coppermine was then descended to its em- 
bouchure into Coronation Gulf, which was reached on the 1st 
of July. Here, on one of the Barry Islands, some very pure 
specimens of copper were found. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 203 

i 

Just before entering the gulf, Escape llapids were run, and 
that occurrence is tlius described by Simpson: "A glance at 
the overhanging clift' told us that there was no alternative 
but to run down with a full cargo. In an instant we were 

IN THE VORTEX; 

and before we were aware my boat was borne toward an iso- 
lated rock, which the boiling surge almost concealed. To clear 
it on the outside was no longer possible; our only chance of 
safety was to run between it and the lofty eastern cliff. The 
word was passed, and everj^ breath was hushed. A stream 
which dashed down upon us over the brow of the precipice 
more than a hundred feet in height, mingled with the spray 
that whirled upward from the rapid, forming a terrific shower- 
bath. The pass was about eight feet wide, and the error of 
a single foot on either side would have been instant destruction. 
As, guided by Sinclair's consummate skill, the boat shot safely 
through those jaws of death, an involuntary cheer arose. Our 
next impulse was to turn round to view the fate of our com- 
rades behind. They had profited by the peril we incurred 
and kept without the treacherous rock in time." 

July 29th the party reached Cape Barrow, thence pushing 
northeastward, Cape Flinders, in latitude 68° 15', longitude 
109° 15' west, on Kent Peninsula, was attained on August 9th. 
Here, three miles from Franklin's Point Turnagain, they re- 
mained till, on the 20th, Simpson, with seven men and pro- 
visions for ten days, set out on a foot journey. 

Traveling eastward, on the 23d Simpson ascended a height 
from which he viewed a wave-worn sea, and beyond it a vast 
extent of territory upon which he bestowed the name of the 
young queen-sovereign of England, Victoria. Its eastern ex- 
tremity was called Cape Pelly, in honor of the governor of the 
Hudson's Bay Territory. 

Having surveyed one hundred forty miles of coast line 
eastward of Point Turnagain, Simpson returned to Fort Con- 
fidence, where the party arrived on September 14th. Here tli</ 
winter was spent. 



204 



THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



In June, 1839, after having spent a week in exploring Rich- 
ardson's liiver, Simpson again descended to the sea, and after 
doubling Cape Alexander at the eastern extremity of Dease 
Strait, in latitude 68° 55' and longitude 100° 45', on July 28th 
he entered a large gulf or bay, still unnamed, and traced its 
coast line for 500 or (iOO miles to a narrow channel separating 
King William's Land from the continent, and whicli has been 
called in his honor Simpson's Strait. 

Proceeding, on the 25th, the journey's end was reached 
near Cape Herschel. The spot was marked with a cairn and 
documents were deposited. It stood upon Boothia Isthmus, 
ninetj^ miles south of the North Magnetic Pole as determined by 
Ross eight years previous. 

The east coast of Victoria Land was then examined for 150 
miles, after which the party returned to Fort Confidence, hav- 
ing completed a boat voyage of 1,600 miles in four months, 

Simpson was murdered in the course of the following year 
by one of his Indian guides when on his return to England. 
He was but thirty-six years of age and had been awarded the 
Founder's Gold Medal. 




INNUrr HEAD-ORNAMENT. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 20t 



CHAPTER XV. 

MIDDENDORF IN THE TAIMUR PENINSULA. 

Of indomitable determination and untiring in bis zeal for 
science, Middendorf deserves a place of honor for his expedition 
to the Taimur Peninsula. Commissioned by the Academy of 
Natural Sciences of St. Petersburg, he, in company with a 
Danish forester, and a single servant, proceeded in 1843 to a 
point on the Yen-i-se-i, just below Tu-ru-chausk, in latitude 61°, 
longitude 90° 30' east. Here he was joined by a topographer, 
three Cossacks, and some Tun-gu-si guides. 

The measles broke out among the members of the part}^ 
at this time and it became necessary to transport the patients 
on sledge-ambulances having boxes lined with skins. 

Leaving the forest of the Yen-i-se-i, on April 13th, the party 
struck the open tun-dras and journeyed toward the Cha-tan- 
ga River. The inhabitants in its region being afflicted like- 
wise with measles, Middendorf then directed his course al- 
most due north toward the Taimur River. 

Leaving Brandt to prosecute meteorological work and to 
gather specimens of the fauna and flora of the regions, on the 
19th of May, with the topographer, two Cossacks, an inter- 
preter, a boat of twelve feet keel, sixty-eight reindeer, and 
some Samoyeds who were migrating in the same direction, 
Middendorf began his long journey. 

Striking the Taimur on June 14th, in latitude 74°, tents 
were pitched and the boat was put in readiness. The ice broke 
up on the 30th and, on July 5th, the boat was launched by the 
light of the midnight sun. Through Taimur Lake progress 
was delayed by strong north winds, but beyond the lake the 
increasing rapidity of the stream hastened them on. On Aii- 
U 



206 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

* gust 6th the first frost was had, and on the 24th the sea was 
reached, in latitude 75° 40'. 

On this journey Middendorf found confirmation of De Saus- 
sure's — the great Swiss naturalist — statement that the differ- 
ence between light and shade is greatest in summer and in 
the higher latitudes; for, although the thermometer indicated 
37 degrees below zero in the shade, the hillsides exposed to 
the sun were dripping with wet. Toward the end of June 
while the mean temperature of the air was still below the 
freezing-point of water, the snow had vanished from the sunny 
side of the Taimur. 

Torrents of water coursed the hillsides and swelled the 
river forty feet above its winter level and swept the ice to 
the sea. 

About the middle of August, in light underclothes and 
barefooted, Middendorf hunted butterflies in latitude 74° 15', 
the temperature of the air being GS°, but near the ground 86°, 
while at a spot exposed to the northeast wind it was five 
degrees below freezing— at 27°. 

Moisture was great. In May thick snow-fogs prevailed; in 
June vapor-fogs, turning daily to light, intermittent showers. 
During the middle portions of the day — the night-period of the 
twenty-four hours — when the sun was lowest on the northern 
horizon, the weather was clear and serene. 

Winds rose suddenly and 

THUNDERSTORMS 

were frequent. Their occurrence in the Arctic regions is 
anomalous. The north and south winds battled for supremacy 
toward the end of August, but those from the north finally 
prevailed. 

The snow-fall was light on the tundras, being, near the 
close of winter, but from two to six inches, while the ice on 
the lake and river measured from four to eight feet in thick- 
ness, depending upon the depth of snow covering it. 

A brownish moss covered the soil, while grass grew to the 
height of from three to four inches along the streams and in 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 207 

depressions. On the river and lake, grass, greensward and 
flowers abounded. 

Here vegetable growth is undoubtedly the most rapid in 
the world. Animal life is the same as in both hemispheres as 
high as latitude 75°. 

Hares, foxes, wolves, reindeer, bees, hornets, butterflies, 
caterpillars, spiders, flies, gnats, wary gulls and incautious 
ptarmigans — all these enlivened the scene. 

August 25th Middendorf reached the Polar Sea, it being 
free from ice as far as the eye could reach. Delayed as he 
had been by the prevalence of the measles, the lateness of 
the season compelled him to begin his return journey on the 
next day. Aided by the north winds the boat made good 
progress in the ascent of the river southward. 

September 9th the young ice was observed forming rapidly 
on the lake and in their efforts to reach the river "the boat 
was crushed irreparably between two ice-floes. A sledge was 
now constructed on the 10th, but on the following day Mid- 
dendorf, sick and fatigued, was unable to proceed. The scant 
supplies of food and his own dog were now divided into five 
equal portions among the party, his four companions being 
hastened forward to overtake, if possible, the Samoyeds be- 
fore their annual migration southward. 

Says Middendorf: "My companions had now left me twelve 
days; human assistance could no longer be expected; I was 
convinced that I only had myself to rely upon, that 

I WAS DOOMED, 

and as good as numbered with the dead. And yet my cour- 
age did not forsake me." 

With reason almost unseated, three days later a saving 
flash of thought came to him. He writes: "My last pieces of 
wood were quickly lighted, some water was thawed and 
warmed, I poured into it the spirits from a flask containing a 
specimen of natural history, and drank. A new life seemed 
to awaken in me; my thoughts returned again to my family. 
Soon I fell into a profound sleep — how long it lasted I know 



208 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

not — but on awakening I felt like another man, and my breast 
was filled witlr^gratitude. Appetite returned with recovery, 
and I was induced to eat leather and birch-bark, when a ptarmi- 
gan fortunately came within reach of my gun. Having thus 
obtained some food for the journey, I resolved, though still 
very feeble, to set out and seek the provisions we had buried. 
Packing some articles of dress, my gun and ammunition, my 
journal, etc., on my small hand-sledge, I proceeded slowly, and 
frequently rested. At noon I saw, on a well-known declivity 
of the hills, 

THREE BLACK SPOTS 

which I had not previously noticed, and as they changed their 
position, I at once altered my route to join them. We ap- 
proached each other, and— judge of my delight— it was Tris- 
chuu, the Samoyed chieftain whom I had previously assisted 
in the prevailing epidemic, and who now, guided by one of 
my companions, had set out with three sledges to assist me. 
Eager to serve his benefactor, the grateful savage had made 
his reindeer wander without food over a space of one hundred 
fifty versts (eighty-seven miles) where no moss grew." 

Middendorfs companions had reached the Samoyeds in 
time to send him assistance and on the last day of September 
he was again safe within his tent. His journey had termin- 
ated two degrees short of Cape Chel-yus-kin, but that point had 
been attained 101 years before. His explorations made 
known the fauna, flora and meteorology of the most northern 
region of the eastern continent. 




PARTS OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN'S DESK. 




HT (1-),,9"'?^®T?;^^'?'^, ®x<?"°*^ Eskimos Aboard. (2.) Cumberlaud Sound Eskimo 
mo"' I Al^^^'' '^'''^•, A^-' Ptarmigans and Hares Caught in Snares by Esk° 
mos. (5.) Dead Walrus and Hor Baby. (6) An Ook-sook, or Larse SeaJ. 




o 



OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 209 



CHAPTER XVI. 

FATEFUL VOYAGE OF FRANKLIN AND EXPEDITION OF 

RAE. 

Franklin's last expedition, undertaken in 1845, comes now 
in order. So advanced in age was tlie gallant Sir John that 
although the admiralty was glad to avail itself of his rich 
experience, Lord Haddington was loth to let him go. "I might 
find a good excuse for not letting you go. Sir John, in the 
telling record which informs me that you are sixty years old," 
said the peer. 

"No, no, my Lord," said Franklin, "I am only fifty-nine." 
Further objection was useless. 

With his pennant flying from the "Erebus," and Captain 
Crozier, the companion of Parry in his last three voyages and 
of Sir John Ross in his second expedition, commanding the 
"Terror," the crazy vessel in which Captain Back had essaj-ed 
a voyage into the north part of Hudson's Bay in 1836, Frank- 
lin set sail in Ma}^, 1845. 

Provisioned for three years, the vessels had on board one 
hundred men, the ver^^ cream of the navy. 

A provision ship accompanied them as far as Disco, Green- 
land, from which point it returned to England, bearing the 
last tender farewell messages of the departing explorers. On 
the 9th of July Franklin wrote: "I hope that my dear wife 
and daughter will not be anxious if we should not return by 
the time they have fixed upon. Without success in our ob- 
ject, even after the second winter, we should wish to try 
some other channel, should the state of our provisions and the 
health of our crews justify it." A portion of the very last let- 
ter written by this same brave and affectionate man is as 
follows: 



210 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

"Whale Fish Island, Bay of Disco, 11th of July, 1845. 
"My Dear Sister — * * * -X'he appearance, dress and 
manners of the Esquimaux bespeak that care is taken of them 
by the government. Several of them can read the Bible with 
ease, and I am told that when the families are all collected 
the children are obliged to attend school daily. I looked into 
one of the hiits arranged with seats for this purpose. When 
the minister comes over from Disco he superintends the school; 
at other times the children are taught b}^ a half-caste Esqui- 
maux. How delightful it is to know that the gospel is spread- 
ing far and wide, and will do so till its blessed truths are 
disseminated through the globe. Every ship in these days 
ouglit to go forth to strange lands bearing among its officers ' 
a missionary spirit; and may (xod grant such a spirit on 
board this ship. It is my desire to cultivate this feeling, and 
I am encouraged to hope we have among us some who will 
aid me in this duty. We have divine service twice on each 
Sunday, and I never witnessed a more attentive congregation 
than we have. May the seed sown fall upon good ground, and 
bring forth fruit abundantly to God's honor and glory. 
"Ever your affectionate brother, 

"John Franklin." 

No wonder, then, that Franklin was always surrounded by 
a host of ever faithful companions in all his undertakings, 
and that, while he thus writes to his sister, a fellow-officer, 
Lieutenant Fairholme, of the "Erebus," should also write con- 
cerning him: "I need hardly tell you how much we are all 
delighted with our captain. He has, I am sure, won not only 
the respect, but the love of every person on board by his amia- 
ble manner and kindnes.s to all; and his influence is always 
employed for some good purpose, both among officers and men. 
He is in much better health than when we left England, and 
looks ten years younger." 

The gallant Fitz- James also wrote: "I am convinced that 
he is the most capable of all men of commanding an expedi- 
tion." 

The last ever seen of them was in the latter part of July. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 211 

This was bj a whaler who described them as "moored to an 
iceberg, waiting for a chance to enter Bairn's Bay." They 
were once more endeavoring to solve the mystery of a north- 
west passage. 

The .mournful discoveries which have since been made in 
the endeavor to unravel their sad fate appear in pages fol- 
lowing. 

Resolved to outline the coast lying between Dease and 
Simpson's farthest and Fury and Hecla Strait, the Hudson's 
Bay Company, on the 13th of July, 1846, despatched 

DR. JOHN RAE. 

in command of thirteen men, for that purpose. 

Proceeding by boat along the western shore of Hudson's 
Bay, the party reached Wager River, or Bay, on the 22d. Here 
they were deterred a day by the ice, which at the time was 
being ground upon the rocks by the action of the tide with 
noise 

LIKE THUNDER. 

The current was running at the rate of eight miles an hour. 

On the 24th anchor was cast at the head of Repulse Bay, 
where a party of Eskimos were met. The women of the tribe 
were wearing round their wrists beads obtained from Parry's 
ships, the "Hecla" and "P\iry," twenty-four years previous. 
The natives had neither seen nor heard of anything concernino- 
Franklin. * 

Learning from these people that it was only about forty 
miles across the isthmus of the Melville Peninsula to the head 
of Committee Bay and that distance broken by a series of lakes 
so that there Avould be but about five miles of portage, with a 
small advance party and one boat, Dr. Rae pushed on until he 
had launched upon the salt waters of the bay. Checked by 
tl^ie ice, he recrossed the lake-dotted isthmus and began at 
ojice to prepare for 

WINTER-QUARTERS 



0^ Repulse Bay. In his journey he had been assisted by the 
liatives. * 

There being no wood in the region, August was spent in 



212 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

building a dwelling-place of stone. It was twenty feet long, 
fourteen feet wide, and eight feet high, the roof being of oil- 
cloth and skin, the masts and oars serving as rafters, while 
the door was parchment skin. 

Deer abounded, and although many had already migrated 
south, heeiug from the approaching Arctic night, one hun- 
dred sixt^^-two fell before their rifles before the end of 
November. In one day. Dr. Kae shot seven within two miles 
of the house. Besides these, two hundred partridges and some 
salmon were secured. 

Fuel sufficient for cooking was gathered, and the fat of two 
seals which were shot supplied oil for the lamps. By means 
of nets set under the ice a few more salmon were caught. 

By the middle of March following, the deer again appeared, 
chasing the fleeing night, 

April 5th, Dr. Eae, with three men, two Eskimo interpret- 
ers, and a sled drawn by four dogs, started to explore the west- 
eru shore of Committee Bay. In the course of the latter part 
of the month he arrived on the isthmus joining Boothia Avith 
the laud lying to the south. This isthmus was found to be but 
one mile wide. 

Returning, four Eskimos were met, and from them Kae's 
exhausted party obtained food for both men and dogs. The 
5th of May found them again at the head of Repulse Bay. 

Eight days later Dr. Rae, with four picked men, again 
started out, this time to trace the west shore of Melville Pen- 
insula. AYheu wirhin a few miles of Fury and Hecla Strait 
the shortness of provisions compelled them, with many regrets, 
to return to headquarters, which they reached on the 9th of 
June. All were greatly reduced in flesh and strength and 
were compelled to resort to the expedient of tightening their 
belts to allay the pangs of hunger. 

Game, however, was soon secured, the boats made ready, 
and on the 12th of August the party sailed for Fort Churchill, 
where they arrived on the 31st. 

For his services the Hudson's Bay Company rewarded D*f. 
Rae with a gift of |2,000. / 

; 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 213 



CHAPTER XVII. 

RICHARDSON'S SEARCH FOR FRANKLIN. 

When, after an absence of nearly three years, no intelli- 
gence was received concerning the whereabouts of Franklin, 
it was determined to despatch searching parties to three dif- 
ferent localities, viz., to Lancaster Sound, the Mackenzie Iliver 
and Bering Strait. 

In execution of this great plan, an expedition under com- 
mand of Dr. John Kichardson, the brave and skillful com- 
panion of Franklin in his famous expedition of 1819-26, left 
Liverpool March 25, 1848. 

Dr. Richardson being an eminent and thorough naturalist, 
was therefore preeminently qualified for the great overland 
journey. 

Dr. John Rae, who had been a resident of British America 
for fifteen years, and who was of much practical wisdom, was 
placed second in command. 

Arriving in New York April 10th, they proceeded by way 
of Lake Champlain, the St. Lawrence River, the Great Lakes, 
and the various lakes and streams of British America to the 
Mackenzie River, the delta of which was reached on tlie 31st 
of July. Here, it will be remembered, Franklin had unfurled 
the silk flag given him by his dying wife, in 1826, and divided 
his expedition into two parties, the one under his immediate 
command proceeding west toward Bering's Strait, the other, 
under the direction of Dr. Richardson, east to the mouth of the 
Coppermine River; and now, twenty-two years later, Dr. Ricli- 
ardson was about to repeat the journey. 

T^he Eskimos encountered at that time were again met with, 
to the number of about two hundred, but, strangely, they de- 
nipd ever having before seen or heard of any white men or their 



214 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

boats. To all appearances they had forgotten the conflict 
with Franklin on the occasion of his arrivel among them, and, 
doubtless, unpleasant recollections of it caused their denial. 

Secretly- depositing a case of jjemmican in a pit dug ten feet 
from the best-grown tree on the point, besides leaving a bottle 
containing the memorandum of their journey and other infor- 
mation, Richardson proceeded along the coast hoping to be 
able to cross over to Wollaston Land, near the mouth of the 
Cc'i'permine. 

At Bail lie's Islands, near Cape Bathurst, Eskimos were 
again met and bartered with. They were here at this season 
f 'jr the purpose of capturing the black whale. More pemmican 
was now^ buried, and in order to conceal the location of the pit 
containing it, the turf was carefully replaced, drift timber 
burned upon the spot, and a 

SIGNAL-POLE 

painted red and white erected at a distance of ten feet from the 
cache. Upon the pole were hung several articles of value 
as an inducement to the Eskimos not to remove the pole itself. 
The effect was as desired, for upon leaving the place. Dr. Rich- 
ardson had the satisfaction of perceiving some of the Eskimos 
strip the pole of its gifts, leaving the signal undisturbed. 

Rounding Cape Bathurst, the shore sometimes rose to the 
height of 250 feet. The bituminous shale at Point Trail, in 
latitude 70° 19', ignited evidently by the natives, had been 
burned and the banks thus destroyed and crumbled presented 
a singular appearance. * 

Near Cape Parry, an eminence 500 feet high and surmount- 
ing all the surrounding region, another case of pemmican and a 
letter were deposited, the spot being marked with limestones 
painted red. Traces of Eskimos were still found. 

Near Cape Kendall, on August 12th, the sea became so 
much obstructed by ice that it became necessary' to abandon 
all but one portable boat, the tent, hatchets, and some of the 
cooking utensils to the Eskimos. Advancing now on foot 
through deep snow, their w^eary progress was expedited by the 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 215 

generous assistance of the natives whom they continued to 
meet, these ferrying them across the numerous inlets lying in 
their course. Two of the natives were recognized as being 
among those mentioned by Mr. Simpson; one by having a wen 
on his forehead, and the other by being a cripple and wearing 
crutches. They, as indeed the whole tribe, had been kindly 
treated b}^ Dease and Simpson and, in turn, all were disposed 
to be friendly with the whites now. 

Dr, Richardson allowed his men to offer none of them any 
indignity. He himself entering one of their huts found six or 
seven women seated in a circle and sewing. Being nearly 
naked, and dirty, they seemed both afraid and ashamed. 
In order to render their persons as repulsive as possible they 
had evidently smeared their bodies with mud and aslies, and 
seemed greatly relieved when the doctor took his departure. 
Thus do man's passions, fears and artifices appear the same 
the world over. 

At length, on September 5th, the Coppermine was reached. 

Deer and geese abounded and nine or ten of the latter being- 
shot by Dr. Rae, and wood found, a large fire was built and 
a feast enjoyed. 

Greatl}' refreshed, the party now ascended the river a con- 
siderable distance and then, striking across the country, ar- 
rived, on September 10th, 

AT FORT CONFIDENCE, 

on the Dease Iliver, just above its outlet into Great Bear Lake. 
Divine service was held, and thanks offered to the Almighty 
for their safe return. Such expressions of deep gratitude were 
not "the exception" but "the role" with Dr. Richardson. Thc^ 
services being held regularh, were attended by the Catholics 
as well as by the Protestants of the party. 

During all his long journey from the Great Lakes to the 
mouth of the Mackenzie, and thence to Fort Confidence, this 
truly great man had been assiduous in making botanical and 
geological observations and collections and his notes on the 
animal life and climatologv of the reoions traversed render the 



216 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

iiccoimts of bis travels of great value and fascination. Lichen 
and moss, affording reindeer and mnsk-ox their abundant food; 
crowberrv, bleaberry and cranberry, preserved from time of 
ripening to the following season of blossoms by an early and 
long-continued freezing, furnishing to goose and bear their 
fattening provender; chromate and copper, yielding to Eskimo 
and Indian their hostile weapon and pigment — all these and 
much more hold the reader intent from beginning to end. 

During the winter both Richardson and Rae were busily 
employed with their scientific observations. 

On April 12th, 1849, was received a letter-bag from Eng- 
land. Among the packages received was a new^spaper, 

THE GALENA (ILL.) ADVERTISER. 

This conveyed to them later news from England than any of 
the other articles, from this circumstance: while the mail-bag 
was being transported from New" York to the Red River of the 
North, the latest new^s from England — September 15, 1848 — 
was telegraphed to the Galena paper, which, being printed the 
next day, was despatched by way of the Upper Mississippi 
and thence found its way into the more slowly traveling letter- 
bag and so on beyond the Arctic Circle. In it was published 
news concerning the Irish rebellion. In January the 

OREGON CITY (OREGON) SPECTATOR, 

of February, 1848, had reached them after a Journey of eleven 
months. It contained an account of the uprising of the Black- 
foot Indians. 

In April, Mr. Rae, in anticipation of a summer voyage down 
the Coppermine, was employed in transporting provisions and 
boat supplies to a tributary of that stream. These were left in 
charge of two men, and two Indian hunters were kept busy ob- 
taining and curing the flesh of reindeer and musk-ox for their 
use on the trip. 

The ice not breaking, it was the middle of July before Rae's 
party reached the mouth of the Coppermine. Thence various 
attempts to cross to Wollaston Land were made, but having 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 217 

arrived too late in the season, the ice had already broken into 
impenetrable hummocks and, after waiting till the 19th of Au- 
gust, they were obliged to abandon the effort altogether. They, 
hoAvever, met with five Eskimos who had spent the winter 
among the Wollaston Land Eskimos who had never seen Eu- 
ropeans or large boats. Thus baMed, although a brave and 
intelligent man, llae again ascended the Coppermine and in 
due time arrived at Fort Confidence. 

While towing the boat along shore, over the last bad rapid, 

A SAD ACCIDENT 

occurred to the faithful interpreter, Albert One Eye. Owing 
to the carelessness and timidity of the steersman, the boat was 
cast adrift. Misunderstanding a direction of Mr. IJae, Albert 
sprang into the boat, and both were lost. The young man was 
thrown from the boat, and seen to sink, never to rise again. 
Being active, of an amiable disposition, and of extreme good- 
ness, his death was deeply lamented. 

During Kae's employment on this trip. Dr. Richardson 
crossed Great Bear Lake to its outlet, at its south extremit}', 
bv means of 

GREAT BEAR RIVER, 

a tributary of the Mackenzie, the ascent of which to Great 
Slave Lake was the object of Dr. Richardson's efforts. 

When descending the Great Bear River, one of the seamen, 
Brodie by name, started inland, purposing to shorten the dis- 
tance, lie soon lost his waj', and as is usual, it is said, for 
persons to do under such circumstances, he started to run. 
Arriving at a tortuous stream he was compelled to swim it 
twice, carrying his clothes upon his back. In his second ef- 
fort he lost his garments, but upon arriving on the shore en- 
tirely naked he knew it meant death to proceed without gai'- 
ments and therefore resolutely swam again into the icy stream 
and fortunately recovered them. He at last located himself 
and returned to his companions. 

To become lost in this manner appeared to be characteristic 
of the sailors, who could not be made to realize the danger 



218 



THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



arising tlirough wandering from companions until experience 
liad taught them better. 

On another occasion one of them was found contentedl}^ 

WALKING TOWARD THE MOON, 

which, being red and near the horizon, streamed through the 
forest and led the wanderer into the belief that he was ap- 
proaching the camp-fire of his comrades. 

Dr. Richardson eventually arrived in England on the 6th 
of November, where he was received with marks of satisfaction 
for his great services. He had been absent nineteen months, 
twelve of w^hich were spent in actual travel. 




IVORY KNIVES. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT 7/HITE WORLD. 219 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

SEARCH EXPEDITION OF JAMES C. ROSS. 

The first expedition fitted out to searcb for the h^st explor- 
ers by way of the Lancaster Sound route, left England 
June 12, 1848, in command of Sir James C. Ross, who, it will 
be remembered, had been in mau}^ parts of the world with his 
distinguished uncle, Sir John Ross. 

The pennant ship "Enterprise" w^as of 450 tons, and among 
the officers were the afterwards celebrated lieutenants, Mc- 
Clure and McClintock. The "Investigator," in command of 
Captain E. J, Bird, who had served under Parry during his 
second and fourth voyages, was of 480 tons. The two ships 
carried a complement of 135 men. 

LEOPOLD HARBOR, 

at the northwestern corner of Prince Regent's Inlet, was 
reached September 11th, and here, a month later, winter-quar- 
ters were ' completed. A more desirable location could not 
have been secured, for it commanded the junction of the four 
great channels, Lancaster Sound, Wellington Channel, Bar- 
row's Strait, and Prince Regent's Inlet, so that any of Frank- 
lin's party, traveling by either route, could scarcely avoid learn- 
ing of their presence in Leopold Harbor. 

Knowing that a party short of provisions would search for 
foxes at this time of year, about fifty of these small white crea- 
tures were entrapped, and, copper collars containing informa- 
tion for the lost men being fastened about their necks, again 
set at liberty. Parry had previously used this method, having 
left medals with the Eskimos. 

The winter passed uneventfully, and during April and May 



220 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

CaptaiD Ross and Lieutenant McClintock, with twelve men, 
explored the north and west coast of 

NORTH SOMERSET 

as far as latitude 72° 38' and longitude 95° 40' and erected a 
cairn of stones. Beyond this they could see clearly to a dis- 
tance of fifty miles, and that the Gulf of Boothia was sep- 
arated from the western sea by an apparent isthmus, now, 
however, known to be a short neck of water called Bellot 
Strait. 

While they were absent Mr. Mathias, assistant-surgeon on 
the ^'Enter])rise," died of consumption. 

Meauwliile, both coasts of Prince Regent's Inlet and the 
western coast of the (xulf of Boothia for some distance had 
been examined, so that, considering Rae's work along the 
Avest coast in 1847, not more than 150 miles of the western 
shore of the inlet and gulf remained unsearched. A small 
party under Lieutenant Barnard had also crossed Barrow's 
Strait and examined a portion of the north coast. Nowhere 
were traces of their missing countrymen to be found. 

The party that examined the west coast of Prince Regent's 
Inlet came upon the house occupied by Sir John Ross in the 
winter of 1832-8. The stores taken from the "Fury," aban- 
doned in 1827, were found in an excellent state of preserva- 
tion. 

These embraced flour, peas, meat and portable soups, which 
last was as wholesome as Avhen tirst manufactured. 

It now appeared to Captain Ross that Franklin had not 
entered Prince Regent's Inlet, but continued westward through 
Barrow's Strait, turning south, eventually, in an effort to 
reach the mainland of America, and that therefore Dr. Rich- 
ardson's parties in descending the Mackenzie and Coppermine 
w^ould meet them. 

Having built a house and deposited a year's supply of pro- 
visions and fuel for a large party of men, the vessels proceeded 
across Barrow's Strait for the purpose of examining Welling- 
ton Channel. When about twelve miles from the shore the ice 



OH. LIP^E IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 



221 



arrested farther progress aud tbej were soon beset, and gloomy 
forebodings of a second winter to be spent in this situation 
came to all, when the whole body of ice began to move east 
ward, carrying them through Lancaster Sound at the rate of 
eight or ten miles a day Until quite abreast Pond's Inlet. Here, 
on September 25th, they were almost miraculously liberated, 
the ice suddenly breaking into innumerable fragments as if 
by an unseen power. Says Koss: 

"It is impossible to convey any idea of the sensations we 
experienced when we found ourselves once more at liberty, 
while many a grateful heart poured forth its praises and 
thanksgiving to Almighty God for this unlooked-for deliver- 
ance." 

Now sailing to England, both vessels arrived there in safety 
early in November. 




PTARMIGANS. 



15 



222 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE: 



CHAPTER XIX. 

VOYAGE OF THE "NORTH STAR." 

Fitted out iu the spring of 1849, with provisions for the 
missing expedition, and with orders and supplies for the "En- 
terprise" and the "Investigator," the "North Star," of 500 
tons, arrived in the vicinity of the Devil's Tlnnnh and 
Melville Bay on July 29th, where she was beset with ice for 
sixty-two days, being released September 29th. She then 
took up her winter-qnarters in North Star Bay, Wostenholme 
Sound, latitude 76° 33', longitude 08° 50'. 

Up to this date this was the farthest north that a British 
ship had ever wintered. The cold was intense, but two or 
three stoves warmed the vessel, and the crews were cheered up 
with all sorts of games and amusements. 

Although about fifty hares and some foxes were shot, other 
game was scarce. A few Eskimo families visited the ship 
occasionally, and one poor fellow had both feet so badh' 
frozen that they dropped off. He was nearly cured by Dr. 
Kae, but died of some pulmonary difficultly after having been 
on board six weeks. 

It was the first of August, 1850, before the "North Star" 
could leave the bay, and the 22d before she arrived in Lancas- 
ter Sound, on which day she spoke the "Felix," under Sir 
John Ross. On the next day the "North Star" began landing 
her supplies in Navy Board Inlet, latitude 73° 41', longitude 
80° 56'. The ice prevented them from being landed at Port 
Bowen and Port Neale, as had been previously tried. A flag- 
staff, with a black ball, and a letter deposited beneath a cairn 
of stones, marked the position of the stores. 

The "North Star" returned to England in September, Her 
men had endured intense cold and many perils, yet but five 
men were lost on the trip and in winter-quarters. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 223 



CHAPTER XX. 

VOYAGE OF THE "PLOVER" AND "HERALD." 

The third search-route, viz., that by way of Bering's Strait, 
was essayed in 1840, by the "Plover," Commander Moore, and 
the "Herald," Captain Kellet. These two vessels, having 
passed the strait, discovered to the northward two islands with 
several neighboring islets. They then repaired to winter- 
quarters, the "Plover" to Kotzebue Sound, the "Herald" to 
Panama. 

Previous to this. Lieutenant Pullen had quitted the "Plover" 
and, with four open boats, made a thirty-two days' voyage 
to the mouth of the Mackenzie, arriving there on the 26th of 
August. Ascending 'this river to Fort Simpson, he met Mr. 
Kae and learned of the results of the expeditions to the Arctic 
coast made by both Richardson and Rae. 

On the 20th of June following, Lieutenant Pullen left Fort 
Simpson with the Hudson Bay Company's servants and stock 
of furs for England, but, five days later, met a messenger with 
dispatches directing him to return and continue the search 
along the Arctic coast. He accordingly descended the Mac- 
kenzie, but, one of his boats being shattered, he returned un- 
successful, and in due time arrived in England. 



22i THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



CHAPTER XXI. 

THE SEARCH CONTINUED: THE ADMIRALTY SQUAD- 
RON AND PRIVATE EXPEDITIONS.— THE 
AMERICANS ASSIST. 

We now revert a seeoiid time to the search conducted by 
way of Lancaster Sound, whither, in 1850, were sent ten vessels 
intent upon obtaining some clew to, if not a complete revelation 
(.f, the ice-kept mystery. There, in July, were the "Resolute" 
and the "Assistance," teak-built vessels of 500 tons each, and 
in command of Captains Austin and Ommaney respectively, 
and each carrying a complement of sixty men. Accompanying 
these as tenders were the small screw steamers, the "Pioneer," 
Lieutenant Osborn, and the "Intrepid," Lieutenant Cator, each 
carrying thirty men. 

Among the ohicers on board the "Resolute" and the "As- 
sistance" were Lieutenants Browne and McClintock, who 
served in the "Enterprise" during the voyage of Sir James C. 
Ross in 1848. Besides these vessels, there were the "Lady 
Franklin," 250 tons and twenty-five men, and the brig 
"Sophia," twenty-two men. In charge of the two ships was 
Captain Pennj^ who had spent twenty-eight of the forty years 
of his life in the whaling-service. Mr. Stewart commanded the 
"Sophia," so named in honor of a niece of Lady Franklin. 
These vessels carried 

A PRINTING PRESS 

as one of the means of passing away hours of enforced idleness. 

All of these vessels w^ere fitted out at government expense 

and the squadron thus composed placed under the command 

of Captain Horatio T. Austin, who had seen previous Arctic 




/fV\' 





,^S^- 




' 1 ^S» J&rf^ \ > 






(1.) Reindeer Does antl Faw ns Migratiug. (2.) Tlirowins tlie Di-zha. or Lasso. 
(3.) Lassoed. (4.) "Bunched, ' or iu Line. (5.) Team at Rest. (6.) Stainpeded. 
(See Chapters VIL, XII. and XV.) 



\ 






H, 









(i.) 



(].) A Halt. (2.) Siberian Women Harnessins Up. 
Driving Geese. (5.) Shooting tlie Swan. (.6 > Wr>mc 



JC4 ^t,. (3.) Swan and Nest. 
Women Storing Brent Geese. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 225 

service as one of Parry's lieutenants on board the "Fury" diir- 
ino- tlie memorable third vovaoe of 1824-5. 

In addition to this squadron sent out by the admiraltj', 

PRIVATE ENTERPRISE AND PUBLIC SUBSCRIPTION 

enabled other vessels to assist in the great work. Such were 
the schooner "Felix," 120 tons, Captain Sir John Koss, who, 
notwithstanding his advanced years, was eager to engage in 
the search, the expense of which was borne by the Hudson's 
Bay Company by a contribution of |2,500, and public dona- 
tions; the "Prince Albert," a clipper of ninety tons. Captain 
Forsj^th, a young man recentlj^ returned from Africa, who had 
previously volunteered his services on all of the other expedi- 
tions, and now went, 

WITHOUT FEE OR REWARD, 

in command of an expedition sent out by Lady Franklin and 
individual subscribers; and, finally, the "Advance" and the 
"Rescue," Lieutenant De Haven commanding and Dr. Kane 
medical officer, comprising the American, or First Grinnell Ex- 
pedition. 

As previously stated, all these vessels arrived at the en- 
trance to Lancaster Sound in July, 1850, where they separated, 
prosecuting tlie search on both sides of the sound. 

On the 23d of August, the "Assistance," Captain Ommaney, 
arrived at the entrance to Wellington Channel. Here, upon 
Cape Riley, Captain Ommaney discovered the 

FIRST INFORMATION CONCERNING FRANKLIN, 

and Yerj meager at that; "he found traces of encampments, 
and collected the remains of materials, which evidently proved 
that some party belonging to Her Majesty's ships had been 
detained on that spot. Beechey's Island was also examined, 
where traces were found of the same party." 

These "traces" consisted of a rope with the naval mark, 
evidently belonging to a vessel fitted out at Woolwich, doubt- 
less either the "Erebus" or the "Terror." Captain Ommaney 
left a depot of provisions at Cape Biley and then searched the 



226 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

north shores of Lancaster Sound and Barrow's Strait, without 
finding any furtlier information. 

Two days later the "Prince Albert'' also visited Cape Kiley. 
Says Captain Forsyth: "We observed five places where tents 
had been pitcluHl, or stones placed as if they had been used for 
keeping the lower part of the tent down; also great quanti- 
ties of beef, pork, and birds' bones, a piece of rope, with the 
Woolwich naval mark on it (yellow), i)art of which I have 
enclosed." 

About this time the "Lady Franklin," Captain Penny, suc- 
ceeded in pushing her w^ay up Wellington Channel as far as 

CORNWALLIS ISLAND, 

when, although an impenetrable ice-barrier was met, to the 
great chagrin of Captain Penu}', open water could be seen be- 
yond as far as the eye could reach. 

The season being now far advanced, preparations for 

W^INTER-QUARTERS 

were made at once. The "Lady Franklin" established herself 
at the south extremity of Cornwallis Land, where she was 
joined by the "Felix," under Sir John lioss, while the "Reso- 
lute" and the "Assistance," Captain Austin and Lieutenant 
Ouimaney, fastened themselves to the ice-pack. The "Prince 
Albert," having accomplislied its mission, hastened to Eng- 
land, after an absence of but four months, without any loss 
whatever, and conveyed the first intelligence concerning the 
lost expedition, thus accomplishing one of the most remark- 
able Arctic vo,yages on record. The American vessels, the 
"Advance" and the "Rescue," were compelled to return to the 
United States in a manner which will be narrated later, more 
in detail. 

From the vessels that succeeded in establisliing themselves 
in winter-quarters excursions in every direction were under- 
taken, there being fifteen sledges and one hundred five 
men thus employed, while but seventy-five men remained in 
charge of the ships. 

"No signs" were invariably the discouraging words uttered 
as each party returned from a long journey. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 227 



CHAPTEII XXn. 

KENNEDY'S SEARCH VOYAGE. 

The tidings and relics found on Beechey Island and taken 
to England b}- the "'Prince Albert" served to quicken public 
interest in the great search and the same staunch little vessel 
was immediately strengthened by extra planking placed upon 
her sides from the keel to two feet above the waterdine, while 
her bows and stern j)osts were sheathed in wrought-iron, and 
the hold made into a labyrinth of cross-beams, thus rendering 
her as strong as possible. She was provisioned for two years 
and placed under the command of 

CAPT. WILLIAM KENNEDY. 

who was ordered to continue the search by way of Prince 
Regent's Inlet, "and the passages connecting it with the west- 
ern sea," as it was supposed that by this route Franklin would, 
after having abandoned his vessels in the western sea, en- 
deavor to regain Lancaster vSound and Baffin's Bay. Second 
in command to this expedition was Lieutenant Bellot, who, 
as a volunteer, showed great courage and genuine devotion. 
The crew numbered sixteen men. 

On the 22d of May, 1851, the "Prince Albert" again set sail. 
Lady Franklin was then on board, and as she left the ship after 
bidding the gallant crew all that her devoted heart could wish 
and express, was enthusiastically cheered as she again turned 
to her weary watching. 

By the 8th of July Captain Kennedy had pushed his vessel 
three-fourths the way up Baffin's Bay, nearly opposite the Dan- 
ish village of 

U-PER-NA-VIK, 

on the west coast of Greenland, and the northernmost perma- 
nent civilized setttlement on the face of the globe. At this 



228 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

village six large Eskimo dogs were taken on board and the 
ship's already full supply of boats was supplemented by a 
number of sealskin boats. 

On the 13th the "Prince Albert" met the American vessels, 
the "Advance" and the "Rescue," just escaped from an eight 
months' perilous drift in the ice-pack. . 

Not until August 20th did Captain Kennedy succeed in 
reaching Pond's Inlet, at the entrance to Lancaster Sound. 
Here a party of Eskimos visited the expedition and so rare 
was the atmosphere that the voices of the natives could be 
clearly heard at the distance of eight miles as they approached 
the vessel. 

Arriving at the entrance to Barrow's Strait on September 
3d, the farther progress of the "Prince Albert" was terminated 
by an impassable barrier of ice which an easterly gale had 
thrown athwart his course. Kefuge was then found in Port 
Bowen, where, it will be recalled. Parry had sought shelter in 
1824-5. Here were picked up nails, pieces of canvas, and 
broken pipes, while the cairns and stone fireplace were still 
standing. 

The lonely grave of John Cottrell, the seaman from the 
"Fury" who, at the age of thirty-nine, was buried in July, 1825, 
was also revisited. 

On the 9th of September Captain Kennedy succeeded in 
crossing the inlet to within a few miles of Port Leopold. 

With a gutta-percha boat and four seamen, he finally ef- 
fected a landing, and, after spending an hour in endeavoring 
to reconnoitre the north coast and to ascertain whether or not 
documents had been left by any of the other searching parties, 
attempted to return to the vessel. But this was impossible. 
The ice liad changed its position and was now a 

TOSSING, GRINDING, ROARING MASS 

of danger. Night was on, and the unfortunate men were com- 
pelled to draw up their boat on the beach and shelter them- 
selves beneath it. The cold was intense, and Captain Ken- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 229 

nedy was compelled to restrain his men from taking more than 
intermittent naps during the entire night. 

At length morning dawned, but not a vestige of their vessel 
was in sight; they were now in danger and perhaps doomed. 
Winter was upon them — and the hope for rescue in the follow- 
ing spring was their great comfort. Most fortunately Sir 
James C. Ross had built a house, left stores, and a launch upon 
Whaler Point in 1849. To these the unhappy men at once re- 
paired and found them in excellent condition. A dwelling- 
place was soon provided in the launch, and heated by means 
of a stove and fuel which were among the supplies found. 
Pemmican, biscuit and chocolate were their food. A week 
passed, when, on the 17th, they were 

JOYFULLY SURPRISED 

by the appearance of the intrepid Bellot, who, with seven men, 
had succeeded in dragging the jolly-boat over the ice from the 
ship, after having made two previous ineffectual attempts to 
do so. Returning to the ship, the winter wore away, when, 
on February 25th, Kennedy and Bellot, with six men and four 
sledges, drawn by dogs and men, began the spring work of 
search and exploration. Traveling the east coast of North 
Somerset, the party arrived at Fury Beach on the 5th of March. 
Here the preserved soups and vegetables deposited by Sir John 
Ross thirty years previous were found in perfect condition. 
The flour had become caked into soft lumps, but upon being 
reground and passed through a sieve made excellent biscuit. 

At its southern extremity they crossed Victoria Strait and 
thoroughly 

EXPLORED PRINCE OF WALES LAND, 

thence recrossing to North Somerset, followed its north coast 
back to the starting point. Thus terminated one of the most 
remarkable sledge journeys on record, during which, in ninety- 
seven days, eleven hundred miles were traveled Avithout ill- 
ness or accident. 

Finally released from a ten months' imprisonment in the 
ice, the "Prince Albert" crossed Barrow's Strait to Cape Riley, 



230 



THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



where was met the "North Star," under command of Captain 
Piillen, who had returned from his trip to Bering's Strait and 
had been despatched with the "North Star" as a depot-ship to 
the squadron of Sir Edward Belcher. 

It was now determined that the "Prince Albert" should 
return to England, and, although both Kennedy and Bellot 
eagerly endeavored to join Sir Edward's squadron and to allow 
the "Prince Albert" to return to England in charge of others, 
it was finally decided otherwise and accordingly Ladj Frank- 
lin's vessel again directed her course homeward, arriving at 
Aberdeen, October 7th, 1852, after an absence of fifteen months 
without the loss of a man. 




natfy^e needle-case. 

Presented to C. F. Hall when on Kine William Land, 1869. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD, 231 



CHArTER XXIII. 

VOYAGE OF M'CLURE AND COLLINSON: DISCOVERY 
OF A NORTHWEST PASSAGE. 

Leaving for a time the vessels conducting the search b}' 
way of Lancaster Sound, we return to consider what, mean- 
while, was being done b3' way of Bering's Strait — efforts lead- 
ing to the discovery of the northwest passage, and giving rise 
to one of the most pleasing as well as most thrilling narratives 
in Arctic research. 

Immediatel}' upon the return of the ''Enterprise" and the 
"Investigator," under Sir James C. Ross, in 1849, they were 
again fitted out and set sail from England on the 20tli of Jan- 
uary, 1850, Captain R. Collinson, commanding officer, with 
R. L. McClure in charge of the "Investigator." Each vessel 
carried a complement of sixty-six men, among them being 
Rev. Mr. Miertsching, an enthusiastic German Moravian who 
had for several years been a missionary among the Eskimos of 
Labrador. He accompanied Commander McClure's ship as 
interpreter. The crews were mostly made up of volunteers 
who had already seen Arctic service, McClure having been a 
trusted lieutenant under Ross in 1818-9. 

Having set sail, the vessels became separated and did not 
again meet until, having rounded Cape Horn, they again came 
together three months later in the Mid-Pacific. Once more 
they parted compan}^ — never again to meet. 

Each, however, called in turn at the Sandwich Islands and 
laid in stores, fruits, and vegetables, the "Enterprise," under 
Captain Collinson, preceding the "Investigator" on the way to 
Bering's Strait by about a week. 

When, now, the "Investigator" arrived at Honolulu, Sand- 
wich Islands, a rumor was there current to the effect that, 



232 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

should the "Enterprise" arrive earlier at Kotzebiie Sound, just 
beyond the strait, as by reason of her superi(U' speed was prob- 
able, Captain Collinson would then proceed with the "Plover," 
still at anchor in the sound, and order the "Investigator" to 
remain there in her stead. 

This served to raise the ardor of every man on board the 
"Investigator" to the highest degree, and remembering that 
the race is not alwajs to the swift, McClure again set sail 
on the 

FOURTH OF JULY, 

taking advantage of every breeze till, twenty-five days later, 
he arrived, without accident, in Kotzebue Sound. 

The "Plover" had seen nothing of the "Enterprise" and 
accordingly the "Investigator" again set sail within forty-eight 
hours and was soon out of sight on the rough surface of the 
stormy strait. 

On August 2d, latitude 72°, the first heavy ice was met, 
and upon it, basking in the ceaseless sunshine, were immense 
herds of walruses, embracing 

HUGE BULLS 

with long and frightful tusks, and females, and "baby" wal- 
ruses, with their meek and innocent countenances. 

Some of these creatures weighed, it was estimated, as much 
as 3,500 pounds — more than a ton and a half! The ice, when 
relieved of this great weight, rose two feet higher. 

A gun having been loaded with grape and canister for the 
purpose of firing upon a herd of these creatures, McClure's 
heart was so touched at the mutual affection displayed among 
themselves, especially between mothers and babes, that he 
countermanded the order. 

It was noticed that sometimes a female, or "cow," suckled 
two "calves," although but one is the usual number of her 
offspring at a time, and which, it is said, is dependent upon her 
breast for the first twelve or eighteen months of its existence. 

When mature, these animals feed upon submarine plants 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 233 

and clams, great quantities of the latter being found in the 
stomach of the walrus, and without any of the shell. 

The "Investigator" was able to make rapid progress along 
the American coast, and soon passed Point Barrow, and b}^ the 
morning of August 6th, 1850, no further anxiety was felt on 
board as to the possibility of entering the Arctic Ocean by 
way of Bering's Strait. 

The aspiration of all was now to push on to Melville Island. 
However, as a great body of ice appeared in that direction, 
McClure decided to follow the lane of water between the shore 
and the sea-ice and attain if possible the "open sea" of Dr. 
Richardson, at the mouth of the Mackenzie Kiver. 

Two days later, when about one hundred twenty miles 
east of Point Barrow, a man was sent ashore to leave dis- 
patches and erect a cairn. Here Eskimos were met, and after 
the customary form of salutation, namely, that of rubbing 
noses, had been performed, friendly intercourse was estab- 
lished. At first sight of the approaching ship the Eskimos 
were greatl,y astonished to see three great trees — the masts — 
moving about. They informed Captain McClure that an open 
channel of water from three to five miles wide would exist all 
along the shore from that time till winter, but could not tell 
when the winter would begin. 

Here the coast was one vast plain, having a soil of dark- 
blue clay, not a stone being visible, and the entire extent cov- 
ered with 

AN IMMENSE GREEN MAT 

of grasses and mosses variegated with a large number of bril- 
liantly colored flowers. Large herds of reindeer and numerous 
flocks of wild fowl, such as the common and king eider ducks, 
enlivened the peaceful scene. Great quantities of driftwood 
lay strewn along the beach, while just beyond it all, upon the 
bosom of the cheerless Arctic, rested the impenetrable edge 
of an unmeasured ice-continent from thirty to forty feet in 
thickness. And how great^ therefore, must have been the 
astonishment of the simple yet affectionate natives as they 
beheld the "great white handkerchiefs,^' as they called the sails. 



234 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

waving to them from the ''moving trees" and urging the vessel 
onward from a region which had always been to them one of 
terror and mystery. 

On the 14th of August the "Investigator" found herself in 
longitude 148° 11' west, which was past the point of Franklin's 
farthest west in 1826. 

Although greatly delayed by reason of numerous shoals, 
at one time being aground five hours, she succeeded in arriving 
off the mouth of the Mackenzie, fifty miles from the mainland. 
Here, on the 22d, Captain Pullen, upon his return from a jour- 
ney along the coast east of the mouth of the Mackenzie, passed 
within a few miles of the "Investigator" without either party 
being aware of each other's preseneei 

On the 24th, near Cape Warren, a party of 

HOSTILE ESKIMOS 

were met with, but w^ere soon brought to friendly terms upon 
perceiving that no harm was to be done them. When asked 
why they did not trade with the whites along the great river — 
the Mackenzie — they replied that it was because the white men 
had given to the Indians "colored water that rendered them 
savage and took away their reason and that they desired none 
of it among themselves." 

The big-hearted McClure warmed with sympath}^ for this 
hardy people, and he thus writes, says the equally compassion- 
ate and equally gallant Lieutenant Sherard Osborn: 

"Would that some practically Christian bod}^, such as the 
Moravian missionaries, could send a few of their brethren 
amongst the tribes of Esquimaux who wander along the Polar 
Sea, to carry to them the arts and advantages of civilized life, 
and trust to God, in his own good time, showing the way of 
eternal life! 

"Such men as Mr. Miertsching would in a few years perfect- 
ly revolutionize this docile and intelligent race." 

Suspended from the ear of the chief of the tribe at Port 
Warren was a brass button of European manufacture, and 
which, the Eskimos related, had belonged to a white man who 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 235 

came aiiioug tliem from the westward in company with others 
of his own race. They also said that the white men had no 
boat; that they built a house and then departed inland; that 
the owner of the button had been killed by a native, who, 
seeing the great ship, fled; and that the murdered man had 
been buried by the chief and his son. Unfortunately, how- 
ever, they could give no idea of how long since all this occurred. 

McClure's men visited the house referred to, but found that 
it was a very old one and that its tenants had vacated it years 
before. 

A thick fog warned the part}^ to return to the ship and the 
grave was not seen. 

Toward the close of August another tribe of natives was 
met near Cape Bathurst, and in return for presents McClure 
succeeded in getting these friendly people to agree to carry 
messages to the Hudson's Bay Company. The women became 
so greatly excited at the unexpected distribution of presents 
that they became unmanageable and, rushing upon the stores, 
carried off whatever the}^ could without the least compunction. 

Still working her way eastward, the "Investigator" was 
employed between the 1st and 5th of September in passing 
Franklin Bay, an arm of the sea just opposite Baring's Land, 
and embraced between Capes Bathurst and Parrv. 

On the day previous to arriving at Cape Parry 

LARGE FIRES ON SHORE 

were observed and, moving to and fro between these and the 
vessel, were figures in white. "Franklin! Franklin! Franklin 
at last!" was the thrilling thought that ran through the ex- 
cited minds of the searchers as they hastened toward the shore. 

But it was not Franklin, nor the encampment of an}^ of the 
long-lost men, that was seen — only a few volcanic mounds 
of burning sulphur and a contiguous spring to which the rein- 
deer of the region — "the moving figures in white" — resorted 
for drink. 

Leaving the mainland, the "Investigator" proceeded north- 
ward to a newly-discovered territory which McClure, in ignor- 



236 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

ance of its being connected with the already-discovered Banli's 
Land, named in honor of the Lord of tlie Admiralty, Baring's 
Land. 

Farther east. Prince Albert's Land was reached, and its in- 
terior fonnd to exhibit ranges of mountains covered with snow. 

The southern flight of gnlls and other birds indicated the 
near approach of winter. 

Entering the narrow channel of water separating Bank's, 
or Baring's, Land on the west from Prince Albert's Land 
on the east, the 9th of September found the ship but sixty 
miles from Barrow's Strait. This water-avenue was called 
Prince of Wales Strait. Says McClure: 

"I cannot describe my anxious feelings. Can it be possible 
that this water communicates with Barrow's Strait, and shall 
prove to be the long-sought Northwest Passage? Can it be 
that so humble a creature as I will be permitted to perform 
what has bafiled the talented and wise for hundreds of years? 
But all praise be ascribed to Him who has conducted us so far 
on our way in safety. His ways are not our ways, nor are the 
means that He uses to accomplish His ends within our com- 
prehension. The wisdom of the world is foolishness with Him." 

Winter was now upon the struggling vessel and she was 
soon beset. 

A south wind on the 16th caused her to drift northward 
until within thirt}^ miles of Melville Bay, which, with Barrow's 
Strait, Lancaster Sound, and Baffin's Bay connects with the 
Atlantic Ocean. 

Here, in the pack-ice, McClure decided to winter. The 
"Investigator" was housed over, the south, or sunny side, being 
left open as long as possible. The dreary months were spent 
in exploring the adjacent coast and in hunting the game which 
was almost incredibly abundant. Reindeer were seen in herds 
of from sixty to ninety each, while one valley was white with 
ptarmigans and hares. A polar bear measuring ten feet in 
length and whose foot-prints were twelve inches in diameter, 
was killed. 

On one occasion a young carpenter, Whitfield by name, be- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 237 

came separated fi-om his compaiiious while hunting. He had 
strayed from them against their wishes and was unable to re- 
join them. 

Long and anxiously his comrades looked and called for 
him; but all in vain. A dense snow-storm suddenly prevailed 
and the searchers sought safety in their tent. 

I^resently a noise as of a polar bear was heard. Poor Whit- 
field's fate! thought the men; whereupon one of them looked 
between the tent-flaps and beheld, not a yard away, a strange 
figure erect and rigid in the snow. It was indeed the unfor- 
tunate young man. There he was, upon his knees, his hands 
raised above his head in the attitude of prayer — stiff, speech- 
less, motionless, yet not dead. 

Quickly his companions began the work of resuscitation, 
and his life was happily saved. 

He had heard his associates calling to him, and, following 
in the direction of the signals, benumbed and unable to an- 
swer, succeeded in almost reaching the tent when his strength 
utterly failed and he fell into the i)osition described. 

During the winter the ship was visited by a raven, which, 
however, disappeared with the return of sunlight and was 
greatly missed by the men. 

On the 18th of April, 1851, three exploring parties left the 
ship, traveling in as many different directions, namely, south- 
east, northeast, and northwest. These traversed altogether 
eight hundred miles of territory and erected cairns and de- 
posited information for any wanderers, wherever desirable. 

The party that traveled in a southeasterly course, under 
McClure himself, Mr. Miertsching accompanying, met a party 
of very friendly Eskimos who accurately traced for them the 
coast-line of Wollaston and Victoria lands. It was then 
proved that those regions are not connected with the main- 
land of America. 

The month of May was mainly spent in getting the vessel 
and stores in readiness for the summer's voyage. The health 
of the men was good and not a sign of scurvy was detected — 
"a record unparalleled in the history of Arctic voyages." 
16 



238 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Go Ma}^ 21st Coinmandei- McClure shot a bear, the stomach 
of which contained 

A CURIOUS MEDLEY 

of raisins, pieces of tobacco-leaf, bits of fat pork, and frag- 
ments of sticking-plaster. 

Profound was the mystery and profounder still were the 
theories advanced to account for these evidences of civilization 
thus found in the digestive organs of a wandering bear. 
Among the explanations offered were two to the effect that the 
hungry creature must either have raided the larder of the 
"Enterprise," possibly not far distant at that very time, or else 
come upon some of the provisions left or thrown overboard 
by the "Investigator" in the course of the previous autumn. 

A tin can containing portions of these articles and lying 
in the midst of many bear's tracks was shortl}^ afterwards 
found in the vicinity of the ship and put to rest further investi- 
gation. 

On May 27th the first gull was seen, and that was held as a 
sign of a break in the ice. 

Not until August 16th was the "Investigator" able to leave 
the strait — and then only by directing her bow southward. 
Eounding Nelson's Head, at the southern extremity of Bank's 
Land, she then passed up the west side and round the north- 
west corner of the island, where her farther progress was 
stopped for the time-being, on the 20th of August. 

Here, feeding quietl}^ upon the shore, could be seen droves 
of musk-oxen and reindeer. 

The "Investigator" slowly drifted eastward with the floe- 
ice, glaciers and icebergs being noticeably absent in the lo- 
cality — a characteristic feature of all regions so far discovered 
west of the 85th meridian. 

When on shore on the 27th, Lieutenant McClure ob- 
served a group of hills about three hundred feet high and cov- 
ered from base to summit with an abundance of wood and 

LAYERS OP TREES, 

some of them protruding from twelve to fourteen feet above 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 239 

the surface, and no firm that they eoiikl not be broken by sev- 
eral men jumping upon them. The largest of these measured 
one foot seven inches in diameter. 

On September 5th a similar deposit of wood was observed 
on the north side of a ravine for a depth of forty feet from the 
surface. The total depth of the ravine was two hundred feet. 
The ground around the trees was of sand and shingle. Some 
of the wood was petrified and some was rotten. 

Fresh-water lakes were also found and in one of them were 
salmon from three to twelve inches in length. Many ruins of 
Eskimo habitations long since abandoned attracted careful 
attention — but still no traces of the missing Franklin ap- 
peared. 

Time passed and little that was new occurred till on the 
19th of September two whales were observed, apparently trav- 
eling westward — possibl}^ journejing from Baffin's Bay to the 
waters adjacent to Bering's Strait. 

At length, on the 24th, after a perilous escape from an ice 
jam, the "Investigator" put safely into a biglit on the north 
coast, which, in gratitude for their providential care, McClure 
named the 

BAY OP GOD'S MERCY. 

Here the winter of 1851-2 was spent, game, especially reindeer 
and hares, abounding in marvelous numbers. 

Two ravens made the rigging of the vessel their home dur- 
ing the months of darkness, sharing with the dogs the refuse 
of the messes. 

WISE BIRDS 

they were, for, not allowed by the dogs to feed upon the same 
place with them, they would allure the dogs gradually from 
the food and when at a long distance would then dart suddenly 
back to the feeding ground, making way quickly with the 
choicest morsels, oftentimes leaving the deluded canines noth- 
ing but chagrin for their pains. 

When hunting, in February, 1852, Mr. Kennedy, having 
shot and severely wounded a deer, returned to the ship with- 
out following up his trophy till after the lapse of several hours. 



240 THE SEiARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

He then found the wolves in possession and coukl scarcely 
drive them away. They had devoured nearly the entire car- 
cass, but, determined to save at east a portion, he seized a leg, 
at one end of which a gaunt wolf pulled while he tugged at the 
other. 

From the 11th to the 28th of April, Lieutenant McClure 
was engaged in crossing the sea-ice of the strait, which now 
bears his name, to Melville Island. Here, in the Winter Har- 
bor of Parry, he hoped to obtain provisions and information 
concerning the movements of others of tlie search expeditions. 
In both of these he was disappointed and returned again to the 
ship, arriving on the 11th of May. 

Provisions became scarce about this time, but fortunately 
two musk-oxen were slain and six hundred forty-seven 
pounds of meat added to the supply of food. One of the ani- 
mals killed was a bull, and when wounded made a mad attack 
upon the hunter, who was eventually compelled to fire his 
ramrod into the infuriated beast in order to save himself. 

Again were the brave men of the "Investigator'' compelled 
to pass another winter — 1852-3 — in the Bay of God's Mercy. 

Fortunately, game was again abundant, the reindeer gath- 
ering in the vicinity of 'the ship for protection against the 
wolves, which continually harassed the defenseless creatures. 

We now revert to the "Enterprise." Having passed the 
winter of 1850-1 in China, she made her way during the ensuing 
summer, as her consort, the "Investigator," had done in 1850, 
to the south entrance of Prince of Wales Strait. Here, in 
Walker Bay, on the Prince Albert Land side, she spent the 
winter of 1851-2, leaving which, in the course of the following 
summer, she made her wa}^ along the west coast of Baring's 
and Bank's lands, as the "Investigator" had done during the 
preceding summer. 

Before arriving at the northwest corner of the island, how- 
ever, her way was blocked by the ice, and although so near 
the Bay of God's Mercy, where her consort was still imprisoned, 
she was compelled to return to the south side of the island, 
and thence along the coast of Wollaston Land to Dolphin and 




' --WiJlv^ 




W- 




-^^JS^ 




(I.) Siberian Pliaosant. (2.1 Seal Catcliin"- Hnra-c ^s ^ c- r. 
(4.) (a) Captain H. P. St^pl enson (b) D F I Mo.c^ V^ •, n"" ^''°''^^,® ^"^'^s- 
Markham. (5.) At Divine Sprvicerfi 'i An P,,;;.: ^^^^s. (c.i Commander A. H. 

XXXVl.) ^L x^ivine service, (fa.; An Encampment. (See Chapters VII. and 





«:S3: :':;w<t* 



^^ 




(1.) ('rossins a strait on a "Pontoon Bridijre"' of Kjaks. (2.) Sledge Traveling 
witli the Man Team. (3.) Danish Governor of Sonth Ctreenland and His Family. 
(4.) "Oo-mi-ak" or Wonian'sBoat. (5.) At Dalrymjjle Rock for Ducks. (0.) Re- 
sult of a Day's Hunt at the Duck Islands. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 



241 



Union Strait, where tlie winter of 1852-3 was spent in Cam- 
bridge Bay. During the winter, the vessel was visited by 
man}^ Eskimos, one tribe numbering more than two hundred. 
The natives had in their possession a piece of iron which many 
still believe was obtained from some of Franklin's party. 
Game was found in abundance and about eleven hundred fishes 
were also secured. The "Enterprise" succeeded in making 
her way thence to England, returning by the route on which 
she had come, where she arrived safely in 1854. 




CAPTAIN HALL, TOO-KOO-LI-TOO AND E-BIER-BING. 



242 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



CHAPTEK XXIV. 

BELCHER'S SEARCH SQUADRON.— RESCUE OF 
McCLURE. 

The prolonged absence of both the "Enterprise" and the 
"Investigator" occasioned great anxiety in England, and the 
vessels which we have already noted as wintering in the ice 
in the vicinity of Beechey Island in 1850-5 having returned to 
England without further intelligence of either Franklin, Col- 
linson, or McClure, a relief squadron Avas at once sent out under 
command of Captain Edward Belcher, The vessels sent were 
the "Assistance" and the "Eesolute," under Captains Belcher 
and Kellett; the provision ship, "North Star," under Com- 
mander Pullen, who had returned to England from his trip 
to Bering's Strait and the Mackenzie Iliver; and the steam- 
tugs "Pioneer" and "Intrepid." 

These reached Barrow's Strait about September 1st, 1852, 
the "Resolute," Captain Kellett, and the "Intrepid," Com- 
mander McClintock, reaching Melville Island on the 5th. 
Here, in Winter Harbor, the famous winter quarters of Parry, 
in 1819-20, they were soon frozen in, the fall and winter months, 
however, being spent in endeavoring to discover traces of the 
missing ships. 

On one occasion. Lieutenant Meacham chanced to inspect 
the large sandstone upon which Dr. Fisher had engraved the 
name of Parry's ship thirty-three years before, and there, upon 
its summit, he observed a document which, upon examination, 
was found to be a record left by Commander. McClure on the 
occasion of his visit to that place in the early part of the sum- 
mer of 1852. 

This document narrated the practical accomplishment of 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 243 

the northwest passage, and the location of the "Investigator" 
in the Bay of God's Mercy. 

It, however, was inferred that Commander McClure had 
proceeded thence, during the summer of 1853, to tlie northwest 
of Melville Island, and accordingly McClintock and Meacham 
pursued routes calculated to intercept his supposed course. 

On the 31st of May, while on 

PRINCE PATRICK'S ISLAND, 

Lieutenant Meacham came upon a quantity of petrified wood 
similar to that found by McClure, one hundred and twenty 
miles farther south, in Bank's Land. Some of the trunks of 
the trees found measured from two feet ten inches to three feet 
in circumference, and when sawed through presented a very 
compact, close-grained appearance. It appeared, too, that 
the}^ had grown in the same locality, and this, together with 
the discovery of coal and coral growths in the Barrow's Strait 
region, as noted by the gallant and observant Sherard Osborn, 
points very cleary to a much warmer temperature in those 
regions during earlier geological ages. 

While McClintock and Meacham were thus endeavoring to 
intercept the "Investigator" in a supposed cruise round Mel- 
ville and Prince Patrick's islands, Lieutenant Pim and Dr. 
Domville, of the "Resolute," were engaged in a sledge journey 
to the Bay of God's Mercy. 

AMID THE PRAYERS AND CHEERS 

of their comrades at the ships, they had started on the 10th 
of March, 1853. Meanwhile, the courageous men on board the 
"Investigator" had fought their third battle with the Arctic 
night — a second one in the Bay of God's Mercy, without the 
loss of a single man. McClure had determined to abandon the 
ship, for the time being at any rate, and to divide his party 
into two sections, one to travel southward and to endeavor to 
escape by way of British America; the other, to travel east- 
ward over the ice, by way of Barrow's Strait and Lancaster 
Sound. 



244 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

On the 5th of April a fine reindeer was prepared for a 
hearty meal, of which all were to partake before the final de- 
parture. 

And right here God's merey was again poured upon these 
heroie men. Says McClure: 

''While walking near the ship * * * ^y-e j)erceived a 
figure walking rapidl}^ toward us from the rough ice at the 
entrance of the bay. From his face and gestures we both nat- 
urally supposed at first that he was some one of our party, 



PURSUED BY A BEAR, 

but as we approached him, doubts arose as to who it could be. 
He was certainly unlike any of our men; but recollecting that 
it was possible someone might be trying a new traveling 
dress, preparatory to the departure of our sledges, and certain 
that no one else was near, we continued to advance; when 
within about two hundred yards of us, this strange figure 
threw up his arms, and made gesticulations resembling those 
of an Esquimaux, besides shouting at the top of his voice, 
words which, from the wind and intense excitement of the 
moment, sounded like a wild screech; and this brought us to a 
stand-still. The stranger came quietly on, and we saw that 
his face was black as ebony, and really at the moment we 
might be pardoned for wondering whether he was a denizen 
of this world or the other, and had lie but given us a glimpse of 
a tail or a cloven hoof, we should assuredly have taken to our 
legs; as it Avas, we gallantly stood our ground, and, had the 
skies fallen upon us, we could hardly have been more aston- 
ished than when the dark-faced stranger called out: 

'I'M LIEUTENANT PIM, 

'late of the "Herald," and now in the "Resolute." Captain 
Kellett is in her at Dealy Island.' 

"To rush at, and seize him b}^ the hand, was the first im- 
pulse, for the heart was too full for utterance. The announce- 
ment of relief at hand, when none was supposed to be even 
within the Arctic Circle, w^as too sudden, unexpected, and joy- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 245 

oiis, for our minds to comprehend at once. The news Hew with 
lightning rapidity, the ship was all in commotion; the sick, for- 
getting their maladies, leapt from their hammocks; the arti- 
ficers dropped tlieir tools, and the lower deck was cleared of 
men, for thev all rushed to the hatchway to be assured that a 
stranger was actually amongst them, and that his tale was 
true. Despondencw fled from the ship, and Lieutenant Pini 
received a welcome — pure, hearty, and grateful — tliat he will 
assuredl}^ remember and cherish to the end of his days." 
On this same day occurred the 

FIRST DEATH 

on board the "Investigator." It, however, was through the 
man's own folly, being occasioned by his drinking the wash- 
ings from a number of medicine bottles. 

McClure proceeded forthwith to endeavor to arrange with 
Captain Kellett for the removal of all the sick on board the 
"Investigator" to England, while he would remain another 
season rather than abandon his vessel. With what strange 
feelings must these men have met on this occasion. It was 
Captain Kellett, who, three years before, while in command 
of the "Plover" in Bering's Strait had the authority to detain 
the "Investigator" till the arrival of her consort — and it was 
now he whose authority must be consulted respecting Mc- 
Clure's future plans. A consultation was therefore held with 
Drs. Armstrong and Domville, who at once united in an un- 
favorable report concerning the health of McClure's men, and 
his proposition to remain with his vessel another year was, 
for that reason, condemned. The "Investigator" was accord- 
ingly abandoned and the men were transferred to the "Reso- 
lute" and the "Intrepid," arriving there on June ITtli, Here 
they were destined to spend another winter — 1853-4 — the ves- 
sels of their rescuers continuing beset meanwhile. The man- 
ner of their final release we have now to consider. 

While Captains Kellett and McCliutock were thus engaged 
in the vicinity of Melville Island, the former, in the spring of 
1854, received the following message from Captain Belcher, 



246 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

whose squadron moauwhile contiinied in the vicinity of 
Beechey Lshuid: 

"Should Captain Collinson, of the 'Enterprise,' fortunately 
reach you, you will i)ursue the same course, and not, under any 
consideration, risk the detention of another season. These 
are the views of the government; and having so far explained 
m^^self, I will not hamper you with further instructions than, 
meet me at Beechey Island, with the crews of all vessels, be- 
fore the 2()th of August," 

Greatly surprised at Belcher's directions, Captain Kellett 
dispatched Captain McClintock to inform the squadron com- 
mander of the almost absolute certainty of being able to save 
his ships; of the abundance of stores on hand; of the health 
of the men; and of his disapproval of such an unnecessary 
movement. 

In turn. Belcher sent back a command for the abandonment 
of the "Resolute" and the "Intrepid," whereupon Kellett, and 
McClintock, and McClure conducted their deeply chagrined 
men as ordered. The brave crew of the "Investigator," who 
had lived through such trials and hardships for four winters, 

STARED TO SEE 

all hands gradually retreating upon Beechey Island, ready to 
return to England as speedy as possible. 

Leaving the "Enterprise" to work out her own salvation, 
the combined crews of the "Resolute," the "Assistance," the 
"Intrepid," the "Pioneer," and the "Investigator," were em- 
barked on board the provision ship "North Star," and amidst 
almost universal dissatisfaction returned to England, where 
tlie,y were received, in September of the same year, by a sym- 
l)athizing but disappointed public. The "Enterprise" arrived 
there about the same time. 

Captain McClure was formally 

TRIED BY COURT MARTIAL, 

but honorably acquitted. He and his crew were awarded 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 247 

£50,000 — half of the standing reward — for having discovered a 
northwest passage, while McClure was knighted by the Queen, 
and several of his officers were deservedly promoted. 

Sir Edward Belcher was also court-martialed, but barely 
acquitted. At the conclusion of the trial, in significant silence, 
the venerable chairman of the judiciary committee handed 
him his sword. 

Says a writer of the day: 

"Meantime, it is sad to think of those 

. POOR DOOMED VESSELS, 

which we have invested with so much personality in our nau- 
tical fashion, deserted thus in that lone white wilderness! We 
can fancy in the long coming winter, how weird and strange 
they will appear in the clear moonlight — the only dark objects 
in the dazzling plain around. How solemn and oppressive the 
silence and solitude all around them! No more broken by the 
voices, and full-toned shouts, and ringing laughter, which so 
often wake the echoes far and near; varied only by the un- 
earthly sounds that sweep over these drear}- regions when a 
fissure opens in the great ice fields, or the wild, mournful wail- 
ing of the wind among the slender shrouds and tall, tapering- 
masts, that stand so sharply defined in their blackness upon 
the snowy background. And so, perchance, long years will 
pass, till the snow and ice may have crept round and over 
them, and they bear less resemblance to noble' English sailers 
than to shapeless masses of crystal; or, more likely, some 
coming winter storm may rend the bars of their prison, and 
drive them out in its fury to toss upon the wave, until the 
angry ice gathers around its prey, and, crushing them like 
nut-shells in its might}- gi'^^P? sends a sullen booming roar 
over the water — the knell of these intruders on the ancient 
Arctic solitudes." 

The loss of these vessels, through the rashness of one man, 
illustrates how essential in a commander are the qualities of 
patience, endurance, and willingness to regard the good opin- 
ions of competent inferior officers. 



248 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE. 

llecalling, too, the probable fate of Franklin's noble ships, 
the "Erebus" and the "Terror," the reader of these pages will 
not fail to appreciate, in this connection, the 

GRAPHIC LINES 

of the poet Montgomery: 

"There lies a vessel in that realm of frost. 

Not wrecked, not stranded, yet forever lost; 

Its keel embedded in the solid mass; 

Its glistening sails appear expanded glass; 

The transverse ropes with pearls enormous strung, 

The yards with icicles grotesquely hung. 

Wrapt in the topmost shrouds there rests a boy, 

His old sea-faring father's only joy; 

Sprung from a race of rovers, ocean born, 

Nursed at the helm, he trod dry land with scorn. 

Through four-score years from port to port he veer'd; 

Quicksand, nor rock, nor foe, nor tempest fear'd; 

Now cast ashore, though like a hulk he lie. 

His son at sea is ever in his eye. 

He ne'er shall know in his Northumbrian cot. 

How brief that son's career, how strange his lot; 

Writhed round the mast, and sepulchered in air, 

Hirn shall no worm devour, no vulture tear; 

Congeal'd to adamant, his frame shall last, 

Though empires change, till time and tide be past. 

Morn shall return, and noon, and eve, and night 

Meet here with interchanging shade and light; 

But from that barque no timber shall decay. 

Of these cold forms no feature pass away; 

Perennial ice around th' encrusted bow. 

The peopled deck, and full-rigg'd mast shall grow 

Till from the sun himself the whole be hid, 

Or spied beneath a crystal pyramid ; 

As in pure amber with divergent lines, 

A rugged shell embossed with sea-weed, shines. 

From age to age increased with annual snow, 

This new Mont Blanc among the clouds may glow 

Whose conic peak that earliest greets the dawn, 

And latest from the sun's shut eye withdrawn. 

Shall from the zenith, through incumbent gloom. 

Burn like a lamp upon this naval tomb. 

But when the archangel's trumpet sounds on high, 

The pile shall burst to atoms through the sky. 

And leave its dead, upstarting at the call. 

Naked and pale, before the Judge of all." 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 213 



CHAPTER XXV. 

THE AMERICAN SEARCH EXPEDITION. 

As already stated, the Uuited States participated in the 
searcli for the uiissiiig exi)editi()iL Tliis was throiigli tlie lib- 
erality' of one of natnre's noblest men, Mr. lleuiy (jlrinnell, 
wlio, having at his own expense fitted out two small brigs, the 
"Advance," 120 tons and ten men, and the "Rescue," 90 
tons, tendered the nse of the vessels to the Government for the 
purpose of assisting in the search. 

In the Congressional discussion, concerning the acceptance 
of the offer, Senator Miller said: 

"I think it ought to receive the approbation of this and all 
other Christian nations, to see a merchant who, while the com- 
mercial world are encompassing the globe by sea and land in 
quest of profit and of gold, is dedicating himself to his great 
object, and devoting a part of his fortune to the cause of 
humanity. Sir, shall it be said that this Govej-ument has 
lost such an opportunity as this of exhibiting the deep in- 
terest which our people feel, both in the cause of science and 
humanit}^, and that, too, at the very time when we are entering 
into treaties and compacts with all the commercial nations of 
the world, for the purpose of extending commerce and civiliza- 
tion, and opening communications of trade from sea to sea?" 

Senator William H. Seward, afterwards Secretary of State, 
{imong other things, said: 

"True national glory is always safely attained b}^ pros- 
ecuting beneficent designs, whatever may be their success. 

"It is a transaction worthy of the nation, a spectacle de- 
serving the contemplation and respect of mankind, to see that 
not only does the nation prosecute, but that it has citi/jens able 
and willing to contribute, voluntarily and without compulsion. 



250 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

to ail enterprise so interesting to the canse of science and of 
liumanity. It is indeed a new and distinct 

CAUSE FOR NATIONAL PRIDE, 

that an individual citizen, not a merchant prince, as he would 
be called in some other countries, but a i"ei)ublicau merchant, 
comes forward in this way and moves the Government and co- 
operates with it. It illustrates the magnanimity of the na- 
tion and of the citizen." 

The debate resulted in the acceptance of the gift, and the 
Government at v nee detailed from the navy, officers and men 
to take charge of the vessels. Among the officers were Lieu- 
tenant Edward De Haven, a young man who had accompanied 
the United States" Expedition under Commander Wilkes, in 
1843, and was now placed in command of the "Advance" and 
the "Rescue"; Mr. S. P. Griffin, acting master, in charge of 
the "Kescue"; and Dr. Elisha Kent Kan<', chief medical officer. 
Dr. Kane was summoned from his held of labor in Mexico, and 
although but thirty years of age and of almost lifelong bodily 
weakness, he was of that nervous, wiry physique which en- 
ables some persons to accomplisli and endure in a way which 
surprises not onlj^ others but themselves as well. He was "a 
thorough American" — a "go-ahead" one — directly descended 
from four of the best races in the world, namely, Irish, Scotch, 
English, and Dutch. 

We learn that he was called 

"THE MAD YANKEE." 

But his "madness" was of good blood and enabled him to do 
things in the midst of perils and in spite of physical weakness 
amounting almost to prostration. 

Geology, botany, chemistry, and related sciences were his 
delight, and he became proficient in them, not from books alone 
but from actual observation and experiment. 

Graduating in medicine at the age of twenty-two, he passed 
the examination for the position of assistant surgeon in the 
United States Navy and was duly appointed. He served with 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 25] 

distinction and great bravery in the war with Mexico, being 
summoned from that country to accompany, the expedition 
under consideration, which, setting sail May 23d, 1850, directed 
its course northward, meeting icebergs, driftwood, and whales, 
till, on July 1st, the great 

ICE-PACK OF MELVILLE BAY 

was encountered. Here the voyagers remained fast for weeks, 
the polar bears visiting them in abundance. Later experience 
has shown that this great bay is not comparatively free from 
ice till in August. 

On one occasion, when endeavoring to fasten an anchor to 
an iceberg, the berg split, precipitating 

THE NIMBLE FRENCH COOK, 

who was standing upon the mass of ice, into the gaping fissure 
and into the ice cold water some thirty feet below. The diis- 
membered berg floated apart and the frightened little French- 
man was fortunately rescued, but more dead than alive. 

The vessels were quite five weeks in crossing Melville Bay, 
a distance less than three hundred miles, and which might have 
been traversed in less than two days. Arriving at 

CAPE YORK, 

on the northern shore of the bay, frequent excursions were 
made from the vessels for the ])urpose of studying the plant 
and animal life of the region. Here were the wild blueberry, 
in full bloom and not larger than a hen's egg; the willow, lying 

CLOSE TO MOTHER EARTH 

for warmth and protection and reaching scarcely above the 
shoe-tops; the honey-suckle not larger than a tea-cup^ mosses, 
lichens, etc. In many places Dr. Kane ascertained the accu- 
mulation of moss to be five feet in thickness and to consist of 
as high as sixty-eight la3'ers, representing the work of that 
number of years. 

Concerning the little auks, which build their nests upon 
lofty cliffs. Dr. Kane narrates: 



252 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

"Urged by a wish to study the habits of these little Arctic 
emigrants at their homesteads, I foolishly clambered up to 
one of their most [topulous colouies, without thinking of my 
descent. The angle of deposit was already very great, not 
much less than 50'', and as I moved on, with a walking-pole 
substituted for my gun, I was not surprised to find the frag- 
ments receding under my feet, and rolling with a resounding 
crash, to the plain below. t^topi)ing, however, to regain my 
breath, I found that everything — beneath, around, above me — 
was in motion. The entire surface seemed to be sliding down. 
IJidiculous as it may seem to dAvell upon a matter apparently 
so trivia], my position became one of danger. 

"The accelerated velocity of the masses caused them to 
lea}) off in deflected lines. [Several uncomfortable fragments 
had already passed by me, some even over my head, and my 
walking-pole was jerked from my hands and buried in the 
ruins. Thus he]i)less, I commenced my own half-involuntary 
descent, expecting momentarily to follow my pole, when my 
eye caught a projecting outcrop of feldspar, against which the 
strong current split into two minor streams. This, with some 
hard jumps, I succeeded in reaching." 

The author can readily appreciate Dr. Kane's predicament 
and give willing testimon}- as to the realistic nature of the 
incident. 

When on the grand hunting trip for reindeer to Olrik's 
Ray in September, 1893, with Companions Entrikin, Clark, and 
Stokes, of Lieutenant Peary's North Greenland Expedition of 
1893-4, the w^riter wandered alone nearly to the head of the 
bay and climbed for several hundred feet a similar rock-debris 
with other hundreds of feet of the same material still above 
him, but was compelled to desist from the complete ascent of 
the mountain for reasons the same as given by Dr. Kane. 

Instead of studying the habitat of the little auk, however, 
the writer was endeavoring to follow the perilous path of the 
reindeer and to obtain a better view of the uppermost portion 
of the river-like bay, in which were discovered two glaciers, 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 253 

one an active, discharging river of ice, the other, at the im- 
mediate head of the bay, a receding or retreating one. 

From Cape Yorlv to Cape Dudley Digges the members of 
the Grinnell expedition were charmed b}^ the sight of the 
celebrated crimson cliffs. 

These are lofty crags of dark brown stone covered with 
snow having a crimson color given to it b}^ a microscopic one- 
cell vegetable growth, consisting of brilliant garnet-like glob- 
ules arranged on a gelatinous, or jelly-like substance, and pene- 
trating the mass of the snow. These particular cliffs, it will 
be remembered, were first discovered by Koss, in 1818, although 
the eminent Swiss naturalist, Saussure, had observed the same 
red appearance of the snow in the Alps more than a quarter 
of a centuiw previous. 

Moreover, this interesting plant thrives in water quite as 
well as in snow. In the Baffin's Bay region, near Yaureke 
Bank, is the far-famed lake of blood. Concerning it, the author 
of "M3' Hummer in the North" says: 

"It is a lake of considerable extent, lying only a few feet 
above the level of the sea, and appears of a deep, dark, blood- 
red. * * * Careful examination proved, however, that 
the water itself was as pure and clear as possible; the red 
effect being due to the fact that the bottom and sides of the 
lake, as well as the few stones which were scattered about in 
it, were coated most perfectly with the red snow-plant. In 
some places, where the water had evaporated, the withered 
red plants on the soil and rocks looked exactly like dried spots 
of blood." 

The color of the 

RED SEA 

results from a like cause. Scientific observers have long noted 
the existence of the red vegetable matter within its waters, 
and varying in extent from a few square rods to many square 
miles. In the spring of the year this growth is very abundant 
and all such places then appear of an intense red. Wherever 
the plant is absent, the water is of a deep blue, varying to 
green in shoal places. Contrary to general belief, the Red 
17 



234 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Sea is not very salt, containinji; but forty-one parts of saline 
matter in one thousand of water. The heavier, salt paitieles, 
sinking, escape as an outflowing current over the Mocha bar- 
rier and are replaced by means of an infioAving sheet of fresher 
water, the entire volume of the sea being changed every 3^ear 
in this manner, thereby promoting the growth of the little red 
plant. 

Leaving the region of the crimson cliffs about the middle 
of August, the "Advance" and the "Kescue" were able to make 
their way across Davis Strait into Lancaster Sound, where, on 
the 21st, they overtook the "Felix," under Sir John Ross, who 
had preceded the other three vessels of the English search 
expedition. 

Upon meeting the Americans, the voice of Sir John was 
heard to ring out, loud and clear above the creaking of the 
rigging and the noise of the wind: "You and I are ahead of 
them all!" 

On the next day these were overtaken by the "Prince 
Albert," Captain Forsyth, The meeting of these vessels was an 
exceedingly pleasant one, the Americans leading the way 
through the ice in a way that elicited the admirption of the 
English. Ba^ reason of his daring exploits on this occasion. Dr. 
Kane was styled the "Mad Yankee" by his British associates. 

August 27th found five vessels near Beechey Island, where 
a concerted plan of search was about to be put into execution 
when a messenger was seen to approach rapidly over the ice. 
Says Dr. Kane: "The news he brought was thrilling! 

'GRAVES, CAPTAIN PENNY! GRAVES! FRANKLIN'S WINTER 

QUARTERS!' 

"We were instantly in motion. Captain De Haven, Captain 
Penny, Commander Phillips, and myself, with a part}^ from 
the 'Rescue,' hurried on over the rugged slope that extends 
from Beechey to the shore, and, scrambling over the ice, came 
after a wear}- walk to the crest of the isthmus. Here, amid 
the sterile uniformity of snow and slate, were the headboards 
of three graves, made after the orthodox fashion of gravestones 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 255 

at home. The mounds which adjoined them were arranged 
Avith some pretensions to symmetry, coped and defended with 
limestone slabs. They occupied a line toward Cape Riley, 
which was distinctly visible across a little cove at the distance 
of some four hundred yards. Upon these stones were inscrip- 
tions which conveyed important information. The tirst, cut 
with a chisel, ran thus: 

'Sacred 

to the 

memory 

of 

Wm. Braine, R. M. 

H. M. S. Erebus. 
Died April 3d, 1846. 
aged 32 years. 
, Choose ye this day whcm ye will serve. Joshua, chap. 24:15.' " 

The above inscription appeared on the stone the most re- 
mote from the base of the slope. 

Upon the board in the center was inscribed: "Sacred to 
the memory of John Hartwell, A. B., of her Majesty's ship 
Erebus; died, January 4th, 1846, aged 25 years. 'Thus saith 
the Lord of Hosts, Consider your ways'; Haggai, chap, i., 5, 7." 

Poor young Hartwell, how soon were the hopes and ambi- 
tions nurtured at Oxford or Cambridge to be brought to 
naught. 

The inscription on the stone nearest the base of the slope 
read: ^'S^acred to the memory of John Torrington, who de- 
parted this life January 1st, A. D. 1840, on board her Majesty's 
ship Terror, aged 20 years." 

"On board the ship" and other evidences made it clear 
that here Sir John Franklin had spent the winter of 184.5-6 
in safety and comfort. Here were found an anvil-block; 
traces of a forge and of the carpenter's shop; a key; a cask or 
tub in which had^been washed a garment rudely-made from a 
blanket; a pair of officer's cashmere gloves laid out to dry with 
two small stones resting upon the palms; scraps of iron; a 
little garden spot containing transplanted anemones and 



256 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

mosses: and a guide-board nailed to a pike eight feet long, but 
lying prostrate. 

vStrangely, however, no memorandum or documents con- 
taining the future plans or course of Sir John could be found. 

On preceding pages has been indicated the manner in which 
the vessels of the various search expeditions spent the winter 
of 1850-51. 

AVe noAv i)urp()se to narrate brietiy the 

THRILLING EXPERIENCES 

of the two American vessels during their drift of eight months 
in the ice — mere ^'sailing tubs," driven here and there and to 
and fro, through the '^'horrid Arctic night" and longer. 

The first of September found the ships surrounded by blocks 
of ice fourteen feet thick and these heaped up in great hum- 
mocks, overtopping the decks and threatening destruction to 
the helpless crafts. In fact, one of these floating ice ruins 
struck the "Rescue" with such force that her cables parted, but 
she fortunately shot ahead into an open space without serious 
damage. On September 12th, in a storm, she again broke loose 
from her moorings and became separated from her consort. 

The temperature was now but five degrees above zero, the 
Americans having no fires, Avhile the British, abundantly sup- 
plied with fuel, kept their stoves in full blast. 

The next day found the two American brigs again in coni- 
panj^, and, on the 14th, while crunching through the ice, the 
motion of both became iri-egular, slow, and jerking, and finally 
stopped altogether. "Doctor, 

THE ICE HAS CAUGHT US; 

we are frozen up!" shouted L)e Haven, as he rushed below into 
the cabin, w^here Dr. Kane chanced to be. 

The thermometer now touched the zero mark and the beams 
and walls of the ship became lined with the condensation of 
the men's breaths. A lard-lamp was now fitted up and the 
temperature of The cabin raised twelve d(\gi-ees above the 
freezing point. This was considered a great luxury. 




^ a 

ti to 

3 o 

. O CC 

9 "I 

£ J3 



6 O 








I. Prof. A. E. Nordenskiold. 2. Oscar II., King of Norway and 

3. Restored Siberian Mammoth. Sweden. 

5. Lieut. J. B. Lockwood. 4. The "Vega" — Winter Quarters. 

6. Mr. S. A. Andree. 
(See Chapters XXXVlll., XL. and XLV.) 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 257 

During the fourth week in September both vessels became 
embedded in an accumulation of young ice and snow, which 
rose high above the decks. At length this became firm and 
afforded protection in the frequent collisions with drifting 
floes. 

On October 1st, preparations for the winter were begun; 
the stoves and fuel were brought from the hold and fuel and 
stores deposited in embankments of snow and ice built against 
the sides of the ship. Scarcely had this been done when the 
floe began to break up, and the coal and stores were imme- 
diately replaced on board.j 

On the 19th, although the stoves were set up, they contin- 
ued to warm their rooms by means of the lard lamp. 

Races, games, and 

SEAL HUNTING 

afforded pastime during these trying months. "To shoot 
seals," says Ur. Kane, "one must practice the Esquimaux tac- 
tics, of much patience and complete immobility. It is no fun, 
I assure you, after full experience, to sit motionless and noise- 
less as a statue, with a cold iron musket in your hands, and 
the thermometer 10° be|ow zero. B3' and by I was rewarded 
by seeing some overgrown 

GREENLAND CALVES 

come within shot. I missed. After another hour of cold ex- 
pectation they came again. Very strange are these seals. A 
countenance between the dog and the wild African ape; an ex- 
pression so like that of humanity, that it makes gun-murderers 
hesitate. At last, at long shot, I hit one. God forgive me! 

"The ball did not kill outright. It was out of range, struck 
too low, and entered the lungs. The poor beast had risen 
breast-high out of water, like treading-water swimmers among 
ourselves. He was looking abont with curious and expectant 
eyes, when the ball entered his lungs. 

"For a moment he oozed a little bright blood from his 
mouth, and looked toward me with a startled reproachfulness. 



258 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Then he clipped; an instant after he came up still nearer, 
looked again, bled again, and went down. * •* * And so 
I lost him. 

''Have naturalists ever noticed the expression of the ani- 
mal's phiz? Curiosity, contentment, pain, reproach, despair, 
even resignation, I thought I saw on this seaPs face." 

Final arrangements for the winter were completed by the 
9th of November, the '^Rescue" was for the time being aban- 
doned, and the decks of the "Advance" having been covered 
Avith a housing of felt, became the home of both crews, number- 
ing thirty-one men. The bulk-heads between the castle and 
forecastle were removed and both apartments thrown into 
one. This the 

OFFICERS AND MEN OCCUPIED IN COMMON. 

The room was now heated by means of the cooking galle^^, three 
stoves, three bear's fat and four argand lamps. On the out- 
side, the temperature of the air was 40° below^ zero. 

During November and December the men slept with knap- 
sacks upon their backs and with sledges laden with provisions 
upon the ice lest at any moment the vessel should be crushed, 
as frequently their peril was imminent. 

The holidays were, nevertheless, spent in merry-making, 
and elaborate dinners served. 

Meanwhile, Lieutenant De Haven became ill, and Mr. Grif- 
fin succeeded as sole commander. On January 12th 

A SUDDEN SHOCK 

brings all hands on deck. The ice-field has parted, and in the 
fissure thus formed comes a marble-like mass of ice bearing 
directly toward the stern of the vessel. It stops — then ad- 
vances. Will it strike? God forbid. But if so, then no earth- 
ly power can save the defenseless ship from immediate destruc- 
tion. On it comes until scarcely a yard of space remains be- 
fore it must collide with the frail craft. But — it stops, and, 
becoming impacted, clings to the stern for months. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 259 

At length, on January 29th, the sun, after an absence of 
eighty-six days, reappeared — a great 

BALL OF FIRE 

visible on the south point of the gorgeously rose-colored south- 
ern horizon for about an hour — one short, sweet, glorious day, 
with sunrise, noon, and sunset all within the space of sixty 
minutes. 

"I looked at him thankfully," says Dr. Kane, '^vith a great 
globus in my throat. Then came the shout from the ship — 
three shouts — cheering the sun/' 

The temperature still remained very low, but the north 
winds and currents gradually swept them southward into 
warmer latitudes. "Frost-smoke" or ice fog then began to rise 
from the great white plain about them. 

Meanwhile, summer approached, the birdS; seals, and 
whales appearing on every hand. 

Finally, the ice floe upon which the vessels were drifting 
became reduced to a small area. 

On May 29th, the coast of Greenland was sighted, and a 
week later the 

GRAND BREAKUP OF ICE 

occurred. Commander Griffin had just quitted the "Advance," 
whither he had been to make a social call, and was returning 
to the "Rescue," whose crew were again aboard her, when a 
great fissure in the ice appeared ahead of him and he had 
barely enough time to leap across and reach the ship before 
there was water all around. A half hour later the "Advance" 
was likewise liberated. 

At this time tlie crews were suffering from the effects of 
scurvy, exhaustion, and debility. Lieutenant De Haven had, 
in the meantime, quite recovered and, again assuming com- 
mand, determined to recuperate his forces at the Whale Fish 
Islands, Disco Bay, Greenland, and then to renew the search 
in Lancaster Sound and Barrow's Strait. 

Every man, though weary and worn from the nine months' 
perilous besetment, heartily concurred in the plan. 



260 



THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



Reaching the Greenland port on June 16th, Dr. Kane and 
five men went ashore, Avhere they were greeted by the barking 
of dogs, the yelling of children, and the gazing of Eskimos, 
After remaining here five days, De Haven set sail for Melville 
Bay, stopping at all the principal Danish ports. 

Off Proven the voyagers were met by many of the natives, 
who dragged their kyaks over seven miles of ice to the narrow 
channel of water in which the vessels lay. 

These kyakers greatly amused the crews b}^ turning com- 
plete side somersaults in the water, boat, occupant and all his 
belongings together. This feat is performed by simply ele- 
vating the hands above the head, dipping suddenly to one side, 
hanging with head toward the bottom of the sea, the water- 
tight skin boat acting as a buoy, and then reappearing on the 
other side and returning to an upright position. 

Here, too, the Americans celebrated the Fourth of July — 
— simply, 3'-et patriotically. Instead of firing gunpowder, 
huge boulders were rolled down the steep rock slopes or 
dropped from beetling cliffs, while, sailor-fashion, the main 
brace was "spliced" with eider-duck egg-nog, the festivities 
winding up with a ball, in which the Eskimo belles took con- 
spicuous parts. 

Sailing thence to Melville Ray the ice Avas found unusually 
late for August, nnd it was accordingly decided to return at 
once to New York, where both anchors were dropped before 
the close of tlie first week in October. 




EEY-LOW-TIK AND KEN-TOON. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 261 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

RAE'S SEARCH AND DISCOVERIES. 

Dr. Kae, repeating the operations of 1848-9, spent the winter 
of 1853-4 on the isthmus (Kae's) which divides the waters of 
Kepulse Bay from those of Prince Regent's Inlet. 

In the ensuing spring, when on the sledge journey to com- 
plete the survey of Boothia, on April 20th an Eskimo was met 
who reported that "a party of 

WHITE MEN HAD DIED OF STARVATION 

a long distance to the west -of where he then was, and beyond a 
large river." Also, that "in the spring, four winters since 
(1850), while some Esquimaux families were killing seals near 
the north coast of a large island, named in Arrowsmith's chart 
King William's Land, about fort}^ white men were seen travel- 
ing in company southward over the ice, and dragging a boat 
and sledges with them. They were passing along the west 
shore of the above named island. None of the above party 
could speak the Esquimaux language so well as to be under- 
stood; but by signs the natives were led to believe that the 
ships had been crushed by ice, and that they were now going 
where they expected to fiiid deer to shoot. From the appear- 
ance of the men, all of whom, with the exception of an officer, 
were hauling on the drag-ropes of the sledge, and looked thin, 
they were then supposed to be getting short of provisions; and 
they purchased a seal, or piece of seal, from the natives. The 
officer was described as being a tall, stout, middle-aged man. 
When their day's journey terminated they pitched tents to 
rest in. 



262 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

"At a later date, the same season, but previous to the dis- 
ruption of the ice, the 

CORPSES OF SOME THIRTY PERSONS, 

and some graves, were discovered on the continent, and five 
dead bodies on an ishmd near it, about a day's journey to the 
nortliwest of the mouth of a large stream, which can be no 
other than Back's Great Fish Kiver, as its description and that 
of the low shore in the neighborhood of Point Ogle and Mon- 
treal Island agree exactly with that of Sir George Back. Some 
of the bodies were in a tent or tents; others were under the 
boat, which had been turned over to form a shelter, and some 
laj^ scattered about in different directions. Of those seen on 
the island, one was supposed to have been an officer, as he 
had a telescope strapped over his shoulders, and a double-bar- 
relled gun lay beneath him. 

"From the mutilated state of many of the bodies, and the 
contents of the kettles, it is evident that our wretched country- 
men had .been driven to the 

DREAD ALTERNATIVE OF CANNIBALISM 

as a means of sustaining life. There must have been among 
this party a number of telescopes, guns, watches, compasses, 
etc., all of which seem to have been broken up, as I saw pieces 
of these articles with the natives, and I purchased as many as 
possible, together with some silver spoons and forks, an Order 
of Merit in the form of a star, and a small silver plate, engraved 
'Sir John Franklin, K. C. B.' " 

It was evident that the entire Franklin party, numbering 
135 souls — the very flower of the British navy — had perished 
in a most miserable manner. 

For his painful discovery. Dr. Rae received the Government 
reward of £50,000. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 263 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

INGLEFIELD'S VOYAGE. 

Among the .surprisingly quick and .successful voj'ages of 
the times was that of Captain E. A. lugiefield, in the small 
screw-schooner ''Isabel," the j^ropertj- of Lady Franklin. The 
vessel was piHjpelled by an high-pressure engine of 1(3 horse- 
power and was provisioned for five years for twelve men, but 
carried a crew of seventeen. Beside.s, she was also abund- 
antly equipped with individual donations consisting of tents, 
traveling and cooking apparatus, sledges, and countless other 
useful items. 

Among the officers was Dr. Sutherland, who, being well- 
versed in the sciences, proved a very valuable man aside from 
his profession. 

Steaming away on the 4th of July, 1852, this gallant band of 
men arrived at Fiskernaes, off the Avest coast of South Green- 
land, on the 7th of August, where they were hospitably re- 
ceived by the Danish Governor and the Eskimo subjects. 
Here Inglefield observed that the natives made no use of 
sledges, but of kyaks and oomiaks instead. Doubtless, how- 
ever, during the winter, when the sea-ice is solid, they did use 
sleds. The fire-wood of the natives consisted of willows a half 
inch in diameter, and gathered in the women's boats. The 
chief export was of codfish. A scene in the 

ESKIMO VILLAGE CHURCH 

is best described in the language of Captain Inglefield him- 
self: 

"Softly, but rapidly, the little meeting-house filled, and 
then the door closed, and an Esquimaux with the most for- 
bidding exterior of any I had seen, slowly rose, and with much 



264 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

.solemuitj gave out a hymn, and in a few moments the me- 
lodious harmony of many well-tuned voices broke forth. I 
was delighted with the strain, for though not a word was in- 
telligible to me, I could nevertheless feel that each person was 
lifting his heart to his Maker, and I unconsciously joined in the 
harmony with other words, which, having been learned in 
childhood, now rushed into my mind, and bade me mingle them 
with the hallelujahs of these poor semi-savages. " * * A 
sermon followed, and there burst forth from the preacher's 
lips a flow of elocution that I have seldom heard equaled; with- 
out gesticulation he warmed to his subject till the large drops 
of perspiration fell on the sacred volume, and his tone and em- 
phasis proved that he was gifted with eloquence of no ordinary 
nature." 

From Fiskernaes, Inglefield proceeded to Upernavik, where 
dogs for the sledges were purchased, and thence made his way 
across Melville Bay into Wostenholm Sound, visiting the bay 
in which the "North Star" had passed the previous winter, dis- 
covered and named several islands within the bay, and then 
l)roceeded northward, discovering Northumberland imd Her- 
bert islands and Murchison Sound. From this point the "Isa- 
bel" steamed northward into Smith Sound, attaining latitude 
78° 30', a reckoning afterAvards determined by Dr. Kane as 
being too high, inasmuch as Captain Inglefield had made the 
north coast of the sound trend too much to the north. 

Stopped by the ice, the "Isabel" now proceeded southward 
along the west coast of Baffin's Bay, thence up Lancaster 
Sound to Beechey Island, where the "North Star," Sir Edward 
Belcher's depot-vessel, Avas at anchor. After leaving some of 
tlie stores, the officers of the "North Star" declining to take 
more in the absence of Sir Edward up Wellington Channel, and 
exchanging mail-pouches. Captain Inglefield returned to Eng- 
land, after an absence of four months. His success had been 
signal, his contributions to geographical science important, 
and he received the approbation of all competent authorities. 



OR, LIFE IN TKE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 265 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 

KANE'S EXPEDITION. 

Once more we are brought to notice the idolized and chival- 
rous Dr. Kane, in connection with the second Grinnell Expedi- 
tion, organized for the purpose of searching for Sir John Frank- 
lin "from the upper waters of Baffin's Bay to the shores of the 
Polar seas." Diligent scientific inquiry was also directed to be 
made. 

To Mr. Grinnell's generosity in again placing the "Advance" 
at the disposal of the Naval Department for the purpose stated, 
was also added the liberality of Mr. George Peabody, the well- 
known philanthropist, and of various scientific institutions 
for contributions in money and equipment. 

The crew consisted of ten officers and men detailed from 
the navy, besides seven chosen for special reasons. All, how- 
ever, were volunteers. Strict subordination, no profanity, and 
abstinence from the use of intoxicants except when dispensed 
by order of the commanding officer, were the three grand rules 
enjoined upon all. 

The "Advance" sailed from Xew York, May 30, 1853, and 
arrived at Fiskernaes, South Greenland, July 12tli. Here Dr. 
Kane secured the services of Hans Christian, a Danish-Eskimo 
lad of nineteen, as interpreter and assistant. Proceeding- 
northward, stops were made at all the principal ports where 
dogs and fur garments were secured, after which an outward 
passage was taken in order to avoid the ice of Melville Bay. 
On one occasion when anchored to an iceberg, small chunks of 
ice began to appear upon the surface of the water about the 
ship, and also to fall from the berg. They were signs of dan- 
ger — the great ice-mountain was disintegrating! Not a mo- 
ment was to be lost — the ship was cast off. With a crash and 
roar like the reverberations of thunder the great mass col- 
lapsed, lashing the ocean into a foam a great distance round. 



266 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Passing;- the Crimson Cliffs, aud tlie rock-spired Hakluyt, ou 
August 5tli and 6tli respectively, tlie "Advance" struggled on 
to Littleton Island, Smith Strait, where were deposited the 
life-boat, pemmican, blankets, and oil-cloths, to be used in case 
of retreat at some future period. Here w^ere discovered the 
ruins of Eskimo huts, and burial cairns containing frozen 
corpses which, although doubtless deceased for a century, were 
still not decomposed. 

About this time— August 19th — 

A TERRIFIC GALE 

arose. First, a six-inch hawser, then the whale-line, and 
finally the ten-inch manilla-cable parted, exposing the little 
vessel to the full fury of the storm. 

"We allowed him to scud," says Dr. Kane, "under a reefed 
fore-top sail; all hands w^aiting the enemj-, as Ave closed in 
silence. 

"At 7 in the morning we were close onto the piling masses. 
We dropped the heaviest anchor with the desperate hope of 
winding the brig; but there was no withstanding the ice 
torrent which followed us. W^e had only time to fasten a spar 
as a buoy to the chain and let her slip. So went our best 
bower. 

"Down we went upon the gale again, helplessly scraping 
along a lee of ice seldom less than thirty feet thick; one floe 
measured b}' a line as we tried to fasten to it, more than forty. 
I had seen such ice only once before, and never in such rapid 
motion. One upturned mass rose above ouf gunwale, smash- 
ing in our bulwarks, and depositing half a ton in a lump upon 
our decks. Our little brig bore herself through all this wild 
adventure as if she had a charmed life. But 

A NEW ENEMY 

came in sight. Directly in our way, just beyond the line of 
floe-ice against w^hich we were alternately sliding and thump- 
ing, was a group of huge bergs. We had no powder to avoid 
them; the only question was whether we were to be dashed 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WillTE WORLD. 267 

in pieces against tbein, or whether they might not offer us 
some protection from the storm. But as we ueared them we 
perceived that they were at some distance from the floe's edge, 
aiid separated from it by an interval of floe water. Our hopes 
rose, and the gale drove us toward" ihe passage and into it; 
and we were ready to exult, when, from some unexplained 
cause, probably from an eddy of the wind against the lofty ice 
walls, we lost our headway. Almost at the same moment we 
saw that the bergs w-ere not at rest; that, with a momentum of 
their own, they were bearing down upon the other ice, and that 
we were fated to be crushed betw^een the two. 

"Just then a broad sconce-piece, or low, water-washed berg, 
came driving up from the southward. The thought flashed 
upon me of one of our escapes in Melville Bay; and as the 
sconce moved rapidly alongside of us, McGary managed to 
plant an anchor on its slope, and hold onto it by a whale line. 
It w'as an anxious moment. Our noble tow-horse, w^hiter than 

THE PALE HORSE 

that seemed to be pursuing us, hauled us bravely on, the spray 
dashing over his windward flanks, and his forehead tearing up 
the lesser ice as if in scorn. The bergs encroached upon us 
as we advanced; our channel narrowed to a width of perhaps 
forty feet; w^e braced the yards to clear the impending ice wall. 
* * * We passed clear, but it was a close shave — so close 
that our port water boat w^ould have been crushed had w^e not 
taken it from the davits — and found ourselves under the lee 
of a berg in a comparatively open lead. Never did heart-tried 
men acknowledge with more gratitude their merciful deliv- 
ance from a wretched death." 

; In the course of this brave struggle several of the men were 
separated from the brig on a floe cake and were not rescued 
till after the storm had abated. Mr. Amos Bonsall saved him- 
self from being horribly crushed by making a perilous leap to 
a floating ice pan. 

The gale subsided at length on the 22d, and the "Advance" 
was flnallv made secure in Rensselaer Harbor, latitude 78° 41', 



268 



THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 




on, LIFiE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 269 

up to that time the farthest north ever made on the American 
side, and exceeded only by Parry on the European side of the 
world. 

From this point, leaving the "Advance" in charge of Mr. 
Ohlsen, Dr. Kane, with seven men, began a boat and sledge 
journe^^ northward on the 29th of August. They had not pro- 
ceeded far before the boat was deposited in a gorge and the 
sledge alone used. At the end of five days the}- found them- 
selves jput forty miles from the ship, whereupon the sledge was 
also left behind and the litttle party hastened forward on foot, 
in one day covering twenty-four miles. 

During the journey careful observations on the geolog}^ 
botanj^, and topography of the country were assiduously at- 
tended to. On one occasion a large river formed from the 
melting of the surface snows was traced for forty miles toward 
its source in the eternal ice of the interior, where, says the 
observant doctor, "fostered by the reverberations of solar heat 
from the rocks, we met a 

FLOWER-GROWTH, 

which, though drearily Arctic in its type, was rich in variety 
and coloring. Amid festuca and other tufted grasses twinkled 
the purple lychnis and the white star of the chickweed, and 
not without its pleasing associations, I recognized a single 
hesperis, the Arctic representative of the wall-flowers of home." 

Finally, a rock headland, having an elevation of eleven 
hundred feet, was reached and made the termination of the 
journey. From it a vast extent of ice could be seen stretching 
beyond the 80° of north latitude. 

Eeturning to the brig, winter-quarters were speedily pre- 
pared and thorough and systematic scientific observations 
begun. 

Game being scarce, much of the salt meat was freshened by 
suspending it through the ice covering a fresh water lake dis- 
covered on a neighboring island. 

On September 20th a depot party was sent out for the pur- 
pose of establishing three caches of provisions to be used by 

18 



270 THE SEARCH POR THE NORTH POLE; 

the sledge party the following spring. In spite of great care 
to render the caches impregnable, the powerful polar bears de- 
stroyed the first depot shortly after it was made. The party 
returned to the ship after an absence of four weeks. Their 
lives had been greatly imperiled on one occasion by the sudden 
breaking up of the ice upon whch they were sleeping. This 
was caused by the 

CALVING OF THE GLACIERS 

in the vicinity, which, giving birth to their giant progenies, 
forced them to try their strength as messengers of destruction 
in the world of ice lying before them. 

Meanwhile, the party remaining at the ship narrowly 
averted a calamity which must have proved the destruction 
of the entire party. An attempt was made to 

SMOKE OUT THE RATS 

which infested the hold of the ship, A compound of leather, 
brimstone, and arsenic having been ignited and failing to 
effect the desired result, a quantity of carbolic acid gas w^as 
then substituted. Unfortunately, the cook carelessly ven- 
tured below and was dragged out more dead than alive. Fear- 
ing that something had caught fire below. Dr. Kane essayed 
to investigate the matter and was likewise rescued in nearly 
a lifeless condition. The fire, however, was located, and ex- 
tinguished with great difficulty. 

The cold, cold winter was now upon them. Says Dr. Kane: 
"The great difficulty is to keep up a cheery tone among the 
men. Poor Hans has been sorely homesick. Three days ago 
he bundled up his clothes and took his rifle to bid us all good- 
bye. It turns out that besides his mother there is another 
one of the softer sex at Fiskernaes that the boy's heart is 
dreaming of. He looked as wretched as any lover of a milder 
clime, I hope I have treated his nostalgia successfully, by 
giving him first a dose of salts and, secondly, promotion. He 
now has all the dignity of henchman. He harnesses my dogs, 
builds my traps, and walks with me on my ice-tramps; and, 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 271 

except hunting, is excused from all other duty. He is really 
attached to me, and as happy as a fat man ought to be." 

Thus the winter wore on. The weather during February 
was intensely cold, spirit of naphtha freezing at minus 54°, oil 
of sassafras, at minus 49°, and oil of wiutergreen, at minus G3°. 
The temperature during March generall}'^ stood at minus 40°. 

All but six of the dogs died of 

PIB-LUCK-TOO, OR HYDROPHOBIA, 

as Dr. Kane thinks. Undoubtedly, however, the}^ died of the 
cause of this disease, namely, exposure, lack of exercise, and 
improper and insufficient food. It would appear that the dogs 
belonging to the natives who frequently visited the ship were 
unaffected by any malady. 

At length, on the 21st of February, the sun's rays became 
visible, and a preliminary party was sent out, to be followed 
by the doctor and others somewhat later. After an absence 
of eleven days, the advance party suddenly returned. "We 
were at work," says Dr. Kane, "cheerful l}- sewing away at the 
skins of some moccasins by the blaze of our lamps, when 
toward midnight, we heard the noise of steps above, and the 
next instant Sonntag, Ohlsen, and Peterson came down into 
the cabin. Their manner startled me even more than their 
unexpected appearance on board. They were swollen, hag- 
gard, and scarcely able to speak. 

"Their story was a fearful one. They had left their com- 
panions in the ice, risking their own lives to bring us the 
news. Brooks, Baker, Wilson, and Pierce were all lying frozen 
and disabled; where, they could not tell. Somewhere in 
among the hummocks, to the north and east. It was drifting 
heavily around them when they parted. 

IRISH TOM 

had stayed by to feed and care for the rest, but the chances 
were sorely against them. It was vain to question them fur- 
ther. They had evidently traveled a great distance, for they 
were sinking with fatigue and hunger, and could hardly be 



272 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

rallied enough to tell the direction in which they had come." 
Immediately, Dr. Kane and a party of eight men started for 
the relief of the 

PERISHING MEN. 

Poor Ohlsen was the only one of those who had found their way 
back to the ship who was able to give any intelligible informa- 
tion as to the position of the imperiled men. He was accord- 
ingly wrapped heavily in robes, placed on a sledge, and re- 
turned with the rescuing party. Fortunately, after a toilsome 
journey of twenty-four hours over a distance of probably forty 
miles, Dr. Kane sighted the tent containing the suffering men. 
Of this circumstance the good doctor says: 

"We at last came in sight of a small American flag flutter.- 
ing from a hummock, and lower down a little Masonic banner 
hanging from a tent-pole hardly above the drift. It was the 
camp of our disabled comrades. We reached it after an un- 
broken march of twenty-one hours." . With the confidence of 
fraternit}' "they had expected him; the}' were sure he would 
come!" 

Now began the return journe}^, one of intense suffering and 
which resulted in nearly all the participants being more or less 
frozen, from the effects of which two of the men. Baker and 
Schubert, afterwards died. They were buried on shore near 
the winter-quarters. So great was the strain on Dr. Kane 
during this journey that he fainted twice. 

About this time a party of Eskimos visited the ship and 
from them Dr. Kane purchased four dogs, which, being har- 
nessed with three of the original pack, constituted a team 
which he himself trained and drove. 

On April 27th a journey to the great 

HUMBOLDT GLACIER 

was begun. Arriving there, a vast wall of ice three hundred 
feet high and sixty miles long was found. Extending an un- 
known distance into the great interior ice-cap of North Green- 
land, this wonderful frozen river with its innumerable chasms 




Cumberland Sound Eskimo Woman. 

Etah Eskimos. 

My Pets : Ock-ah-mah-ding-wah 

and Kla-yu. 



South Greenland Females. 
South Greenland Dogs. 
Polar Bear on Board. 




Face of a Greenland Glacier. 

(See pages 458-9.) 




Face of Glacier, showing Overthrust and Stratification. 

(See pases 45b-it.) 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 273 

aud frightful inequalities bad boldly asserted its rigbt to 
launcb its countless floating castles of ice at times wben and in 
places where the strongest vessels of man would be instantly 
shattered. On the journey thither a peculiar and solitary col- 
umn of greenstone was discovered and named Tennyson's Mon- 
ument. 

The provision caches made b}^ the autumn party had all 
been destroyed by bears. 

Dr. Kane's strength signally failed him on this trip and he 
was carried to the brig in a dying condition by five of his com- 
panions. 

For several days this plucky man struggled with death, but 
at length rallied, through the attention of Dr. Hayes and the 
influence of his own strong mind. 

On the 20th of May Dr. Hayes aud one companion set out 
with a dog team to the west side of Smith's vStrait. Here the}- 
located more accurately Cape Sabine, named by Captain Ingle- 
field, and destined, fort}^ years later, to be the scene of the 
awful suffering and starvation of Lieutenant Greely's party. 

From this point Hayes Journeyed northward and explored 
more fully and named the channel 

KENNEDY CHANNEL. 

in honor of the honorable Secretary of the United States Navy. 

Dr. Hayes and his companion — a very strong man — were 
badly used up by this trip. They had journeyed two hundred 
and seventy miles and made many valuable discoveries. The 
dogs became so hungry that they devoured their own har- 
nesses. These, however, were repaired by means of slices cut 
from the driver's pantaloons. 

June 4th Mr. Morton and Hans began a northward journey. 
They were accompanied as far as McGarry Island by Mr. Bon- 
sall, Mr. McGarry and others. 

Finally, on the 22d, in latitude 80° 30', was planted the 
Grinnell flag, at the highest point north at that time ever at- 



274 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

tainecl in Greenland Avalers. From an eminence could be 
seen farther northward a stretch of open water — 

THE SUPPOSED POLAR SEA. 

Says Kane: "It must have been an imposing sight, as he 
stood at this termination of his journey, looking out upon 
the great waste of waters. Not a speck of ice, to use his own 
words, could be seen. There, from a height of 400 feet, com- 
manding a horizon of almost forty miles, his ears were glad- 
dened w^ith the novel music of dashing waters, and a surf 
breaking in among the rocks at his feet stayed his further 
progress. The high ridges to the northeast dwindled away 
to the low blue knobs, which blended finally with the air. 
Morton called the cape which balfied his labors after his com- 
mander, but I have given it the more enduring name of Cape 
Constitution. I do not believe there was a man among us 
who did not long for the means of embarking upon these bright 
and lovely waters." 

The ship was still beset in the ice, and being merely a sail- 
ing vessel, escape was utterly impossible. Half the men were 
on the sick list and accordingly Dr. Kane resolved to com- 
municate with the squadron of Sir Edward Belcher, then sup- 
posed to be at Beechey Island. 

Manning a small sailing craft but twenty-three feet long 
and six and a half feet wide in the beam, the resolute man 
and five companions proceeded to Littleton Island, where they 
were fortunate enough to secure a quantity of eider ducks. 
Putting again to sea in the endeavor to gain the west shore of 
Baffin's Bay, they were overtaken by a gale, to the fury of 
which they were exposed for twent3^-two hours, and would all 
have perished but for the consummate skill of Mr. McGarry, 
second officer of the expedition. On July 23d Hakluyt Island 
was reached, from which point they directed their course 
toward the Cary Islands. When within ten miles of Cape 
Parry, however, their farther progress was effectually stopped 
by a great barrier of ice, which, loosened by the action of wind, 
tide, and the sun's heat from the Whale Sound region of Green- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 275 

land, had followed the coast on its journey southward and 
westward and united with a like ice-stieam from Jones' Sound 
on the west coast of Baffin's Bay. 

Having returned to the brig about the first of August, a last 
attempt was made to free themselves through blasting the ice 
by means of gunpowder. P^rozen to a depth of sixty feet in 
this particular place, the solid mass could be broken but 
slowly and Dr. Kane decided to remain where the vessel then 
was and await more favorable conditions in the course of the 
next summer season. Fearing the worst, on the face of a bold 
rock facing west he had printed in large black letters, 

"THE ADVANCE, 1853-54," 

and in a hole drilled into the rock was deposited a sealed bottle 
containing the records of the expedition. Hard by, too, and 
appropriately designated, were the graves of the two men, 
Baker and Schubert, who had died from the effects of frost- 
bites and exposure. 

Dr. Kane now called the men together and stated to them 
the very unfortunate condition in Avhich they then were and 
gave to those who might so desire the opportunity of endeavor- 
ing to make their escape while there yet remained a chance. 
He, however, advised all to remain with the brig, but assured 
them that, should any attempt to liberate themselves fail, they 
would nevertheless receive "a brother's welcome" upon their 
return to the ship. 

Acting upon this assurance. Dr. Hayes and eight others 
took their departure on the 28th of August, but a few days later 
one of the men, George Riley, returned. 

Those who remained now set to work to gather moss, chink- 
ing all the cracks about the ship and otherwise preparing for 
the approaching winter. Nearly all the men were sick and 
there was sore need of fresh meat. Accordingly, Dr. Kane and 
Hans set out to hunt seals. The ice breaking, both men, dogs, 
sledge, and all were precipitated into the freezing water. Guns, 
robes, tent, and sledge were lost, and but for the vigorous rub- 



276 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

bing which Hans bestowed npon Dr. Kane, he, too, might have 
been numbered among the irrecoverables. 

A friendly eomijact was now entered into with the natives, 
according to which Dr. Kane was to supply the Eskimos w ith 
needles, pins, knives, iron, wood, etc., in return for walrus and 
seal meats, the loan' of dogs, etc. So just was Dr. Kane in his 
dealings that the agreement was never broken on the part of 
either side. 

The men became accustomed to the change of diet, eating 
the flesh raw. Tiie liver of the walrus was esteemed a luxury. 

On December 7th several sledge loads of the natives visited 
the brig, bringing with them Messrs. Bonsall and Peterson of 
the Hayes party. These reported that they had left their com- 
panions two hundred miles south of the brig, and that they 
were in desperate circumstances and uncertain as to their 
future movements. 

Now to relieve them was the first thought of Dr. Kane; 
but, alas! all but himself, Mr. McGarry and Hans were on the 
invalid list and the doctor could not leave his hopital. He 
was about to trust relief to the care of the Eskimos when, on 
the 12th, the unfortunate men returned in company with some 
Eskimos, who, while encamped in a miserable hovel, had vis- 
ited them and given them meat, but to whom they would 
neither lend nor sell their dogs. 

Dr. Hayes had thereupon invited them to partake of food 
mixed with a soporific substance, and, the invitation being ac- 
cepted forthwith, it was not long ere the drowsy hunters of 
the north were driving 

PHANTOM DOGS IN DREAMLAND, 

while Dr. Hayes and companions were driving the realities in 
Greenland, on the return to the brig. 

The unsuspecting Eskimos were, however, aroused through 
some accidental noise before the dogs were far away and the 
fleeing party were soon overtaken by the infuriated natives, 
who were not pacified until guns were leveled upon them. 
They then agreed to take the wanderers to the ship, w^here, as 



(m, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 277 

we have seen, they arrived, telling an awful tale of privation 
and suffering. 

"Poor fellows," says the big-hearted Kane, "I could only 
grasp them by the hand and give them a brother's welcome." 

About this time two of the most able-bodied men of the 
party, when on the point of 

DESERTING THEIR COMRADES, 

were put in irons, and the instigator punished severely. He 
made fair promises of future good behavior, but, upon being 
released, again deserted within an hour. 

Hans having gone out with the sledge and dogs a few days 
previous to this, it was supposed that the plan of the desert- 
ers was to seize these and to live thereafter among the natives, 
thus depriving the expedition of their necessary services. Dr. 
Kane, however, again apprehended the culprit and placed him 
in irons for a time. 

Thus the winter wore away. Finally, a deer was killed, but 
the men were so much.reduced in strength that it was brought 
to the ship with extreme difficulty. 

Provisions were indeed low, and when at length but suf- 
ficient remained for thirty-six days, it was decided to abandon 
the brig. Everj^thing having been made ready for the final 
departure. Dr. Kane read a portion of Scripture and then ad- 
dressed the men upon the solmnity of the occasion and the 
gravity of their situation and the necessity of working in 
harmony. All then marched round the staunch little ves- 
sel which had so long been their home, and took from its bow 
the 

FIGURE-HEAD 

representing a little girl with painted cheeks. 

Dr. Kane hesitated to add this as a burden, but the men 
reasoned that, should it prove too cumbersome, it could be used 
for fuel. That it neither proved too burdensome, nor was used 
for fuel, can be declared to by the many thousands of visitors 
to the Arctic exhibit in the Government Building during the 
United States Columbian Exposition, forty years lateiii, where 



278 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

"the little lady" looked sympathetically down upon Lieutenant 
Greely and his ice and snow-bound encampment. 

Having thus left the "Advance," the party were accom- 
panied to the open water by their friendly allies, the Eskimos. 
Says Kane: "My heart warms to these poor, dirty, miserable, 
yet happy beings, so long our neighbors, and of late so staunch- 
ly our friends. Theirs is 

NO AFFECTATION 

of regret. There are twenty-two of them around me, all busy 
in good offices to the 'Docto Kayens,' and there are only two 
women and the old blind patriarch, Kresuk (Kes-shu), left 
behind at the settlement." 

Working their way southward with much exertion, they 
were fortunate enough to replenish their larder with a large 
number of eider ducks and eggs, which latter were gathered 
at the rate of twelve hundred a day. 

The saddest occurrence of the journey was the 

DEATH OF CHRISTIAN OHLSEN. 

one of the most useful men in the party. This was caused by 
an internal straining of the body received in saving one of the 
sledges from being lost through a tide-hole. His body was 
laid to rest with due ceremony and great respect beneath a 
cairn of stones erected upon the shore. A sheet of lead duly 
inscribed was placed upon his breast. 

As the party journeyed they became greatly exhausted. 
Difficult breathing, swollen feet, sleeplessness, and ravenous 
appetites pursued them continually. And here we again quote 
the graphic words of Kane: "It was at this crisis of our for- 
tunes that we saw a large seal floating on a small patch of ice — 
as is the custom of these animals — and seemingly asleep. Sig- 
nal was made for one of the boats to follow astern, and, 

TREMBLING WITH ANXIETY, 

we prepared to crawl down upon him, Peterson, with the 
large English rifle, was stationed in the bow, and stockings 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 279 

were drawn over the oars as miilUers. As we neared the ani- 
mal our excitement became so intense that the men could hard- 
ly keep stroke. 

"I had a set of signals for such occasions, which spared us 
the noise of the voice, and when about three hundred yards 
away the oars were taken off, and we moved on in silence with 
a single scull astern. He was not asleep, for he reared his head 
when we were almost within rifle shot, and to this day I can 
remember the hard, careworn, almost despairing expression 
upon 

THE MEN'S THIN FACES. 

as they saw him move. Their lives depended on his capture." 
Peterson's aim was true and the seal fell, with his head 
resting upon the edge of the ice just above the water. With 
a shout of triumph the men urged the boat forward, secured 
the scarcel}'^ dead creature and instantly cut it into strips, gorg- 
ing themselves with its life-saving flesh and blood. Not an 
ounce was wasted, the cartilaginous flippers and distended en- 
trails being consumed. Passing 

THE DEVIL'S THUMB, 

the solitary sentinel of rock at the south entrance to Melville 
Ba}^, on August 1st they soon left the Duck Islands and Cape 
Shackleton also in the rear and then made for the mainland. 
Here, seeking eider-down found upon the islands along the 
coast, they met a single k^^aker whom Peterson knew. 

"Don't you know me? I'm Peterson!" said he. 

"No; his wife says he's dead," replied the Greenlander, as 
he paddled away. 

Two days later a distinct "Hello!" fell upon their ears. It 
came from one of the men on board the Danish oil-boat, then 
bound from Upernavik to Kingatok. Prom her crew was 
learned the chief events transpired since the departure of the 
"Advance" more than two years before. 

Pushing on to Upernavik, where thej^ were joyously re- 
welcomed by the Danish and Eskimo population, and thence 
to Godhaven, Disco, or Lievely, as the place is called. Dr. Kane 



280 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

embarked on the Danish boat '^Mariane," on the 11th of Sep- 
tember, intending to return to America by way of England. 
Just as the steamer was leaving the harbor, a strange vessel 
was seen to approach. It was the "Arctic," under Captain 
Hartstene, then in search of the brave men who had just suc- 
ceeded in luaking their own escape. Captain Hartstene had 
some weeks previous i)assed northward, but meeting the Es- 
kimos learned of Dr. Kane's retreat and thereupon directed his 
course southward, overtaking them at Godhaven. 

As the "Arctic" approached the "Mariano," Dr. Kane and 
men set off in their good boat "Faith" to meet their country- 
men. 

"Is that Dr. Kane?" inquired Captain Hartstene eagerly of 
a little man 

IN A RAGGED FLANNEL SHIRT. 

as the "Faith" was rowed alongside. 

It is needless to say that it was, or to attempt to 
describe the greeting that awaited the men as they were re- 
ceived on board, or the joyous welcome given them upon their 
arrival in New York, on the 11th of October, 1855. 

The results of the expedition were highly satisfactory: al- 
though no traces of the missing Franklin were discovered, 
yet it was made evident that the lost explorer had not pur- 
sued that route; more than a thousand miles of coast line 
were added to the geographies, an important knowledge of the 
northernmost Eskimos obtained, and other noteworthy scien- 
tific data secured. 

Through Sir John Crampton, the British Ambassador at 
Washington, her Majesty's Government offered its cordial con- 
gratulations for the safe return of the expedition and ex- 
pressed its sincere gratitude to Dr. Kane, Mr. Grinnell, and 
the United States for affording aid in searching for Sir John 
Franklin. Through Mr. Crampton the Queen's medal was 
struck for the oflicers and men of the "Advance," and a large 
and costly silver vase presented to Mr. Grinnell "for his exer- 
tions and munificence." 

Two years later Dr. Kane's health quite failed and he went 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 281 

to England, but becoming worse, he proceeded to Cuba, where 
he died, February 16, 1857, aged thirty-seven. His last words 
were : 

"Let not your heart be troubled: ye believe in God, believe 
also in me. In my Father's house are many mansions; if it 
were not so, I would have told you. I go to prepare a place 
for you." 

His mother and two brothers tenderly cared for him during 
his last hours, his body being taken fi'om Havana to New 
Orleans, and thence to Philadelphia, where the funeral obse- 
quies were held in the church of his boyhood and in the fa- 
miliar Independence Hall, a vast throng, embracing the rich 
and the poor, the learned and the unlettered, assembling to 
pay sincere respect to his memory. 

As may be inferred. Dr. Kane possessed a decidedly relig- 
ious nature and frequently gave it public expression with all 
the eloquence of his soul. On one occasion he thus wrote: 

"I never lost my hope; I looked to the coming spring as 
full of responsibilities, but I had bodily strength and moral 
tone enough to look through them to the end. A trust based 
on experience as well as on promises buoyed me up at the worst 
of times. Call it fatalism, as you iguorantly may, there is that 
in the story of everj^ eventful life which teaches the inefficiency 
of human means and the present control of a Supreme agency. 
See how often relief has come at the moment of extremity, in 
forms strangely unsought, almost, at the time, unwelcome; 
see, still more, how the back has been strengthened to its in- 
creasing burden, and the heart cheered by some conscious 
influence of an unseen Power." 

How well Dr. Kane acted upon these principles is well 
illustrated in the regulations which he maintained even dur- 
ing the retreat to Upernavik, for then were held "daily prayers, 
both morning and evening, all hands gathering round in a 
circle and standing uncovered." We have a more detailed ac- 
count of this from Mr. Wilson, one of the party. He says: 

"While the rest of the party surrounded the sledge with un- 
covered heads, Dr. Kane rendered thanks to the great Ruler 



282 



THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE: 



of human destinies for the goodness He had evinced in preserv- 
ing our lives while struggling over the ice-desert, exposed to 
a blast almost as withering as that from a furnace. Our com- 
mander poured forth ready and eloquent sentences of grati- 
tude in that lonely solitude, whose scenery offered nothing to 
cheer the mind and everything to depress it." 

We are prepared, therefore, to account for the tranquillity 
with which this heroic man took his final journey from earth, 
and may well understand why shortly before this "two or three 
times every day he must hear the words of life from the lips 
of her who had taught his own to lisp his infant prayer," and at 
the last to breathe those very words as his last. 




CAPTAIN UALL'S GUAVE. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 28S 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

M'CLINTOCK'S SUCCESSFUL VOYAGE. 

So persistently was the search maintained that at length 
definite information concerning Franklin was obtained. In 
command of the expedition that secured this result was Cap- 
tain Francis Leopold McClintock, already experienced in the 
details of Arctic service. His efforts were ably seconded by 
Captain Allen Young, who not only threw his whole soul into 
the enterprise, but also contributed £500. Lieutenant Hobson 
likewise performed excellent service as an explorer, while Dr. 
Walker, a skilled physician and scientist, rendered invaluable 
aid. The vessel, the "Fox," a steam yacht of 177 tons burden, 
carried a complement of twenty-five men, all volunteers, sev- 
enteen of whom had alread}^ participated in Arctic work. 

The expenses of the expedition were shared by Lady Frank- 
lin, the Royal Society, and the London Board of Trade. The 
admiralty supplied more than three tons of pemmican, and 
the board of ordnance the guns, ammunition, etc. In fact Mc- 
Clintock had but to ask and everything necessary was freely 
given. 

Among the men who joined was Carl Peterson, the inter- 
preter, and concerning whom we have written in treating of 
Dr. Kane's expedition. 

Setting sail on the 3d of June, 1857, the "Fox" arrived off 
the coast of Greenland on the 12th of July. Entering Baffin's 
Bay, she soon became ice-bound and remained beset for eight 
months, drifting southward meanwhile more than one thou- 
sand miles. 

Arriving finally at Holsteinberg, Greenland, on the 28th 
of April, 1858, the crew refreshed themselves, supplies were 



284 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

obtained, and again the "Fox" set sail on the 8th of May and 
directed her course by way of Melville Bay, Lancaster Sound, 
and Barrow's Strait to King William's, Land, which the ener- 
getic and persevering men reached on May 24th, 1859, after a 
nearly two years' absence from England. 

Certain articles which had belonged to Franklin's men 
having been obtained from the natives, systematic search was 
at once instituted. Near Cape Herschel, the south point of 
the island. Captain McClintock discovered a bleached skeleton 
lying at full length upon the beach, besides some clothing, a 
pocketbook, and a few letters. 

At Point Victory Lieutenant Hobson found the following 
record : 

"May 28, 1847. 

"H. M. S. 'Erebus' and 'Terror' wintered in ice in latitude 
70° 5' north, longitude 98° 23' west. Having wintered in 
1846-7 (this date should evidently be 1845-6) at Beechey Island, 
in latitude 74° 43' 28" north, longitude 91° 39' 15" west, after 
having ascended Wellington Channel to 77° and returned by 
the west side of Cornwallis Island. 

"Sir Jno. Franklin commanding the expedition. 

"All well. 

"Party consisting of two officers and six men left the ships 
on Monday, 24th May, 1847. 

"Gr. Gore, Lieut. 

"Chas. De Voeux, Mate." 

Around the margin of the above record were written, in 
another hand, the following 

SAD WORDS: 

"April 25, 1848. 

"H. M. S. 'Terror' and 'Erebus' were deserted on the 22d 
of April, five leagues N. N. W. of this, having been beset since 
12th of September, 1846. The officers and crews consisting of 
105 souls, under the command of Captain Crozier, landed here 
in latitude 69° 37' 42" north, longitude 98° 41' west. Sir Jno, 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 



285 




19 



286 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Franklin died on the 11th of Jnne, 1847, and the total loss by 
deaths in the expedition has been to this date nine officers and 
fifteen men. 

(Signed) "Jas. Fitzjames, 
(Signed) "F. K. M. Crozier, "Capt. 'Erebus.' " 

"Capt. and Sr. Officer." 
"And start (on) to-morrow, 26th, for Back's Fish River." 

Still later on the western extremity of King William's 
Island was discovered a large boat containing 

TWO GHASTLY SKELETONS, 

one being that of a small-bodied yoimg man, possibly an of- 
ficer, and near which lay a pair of worked slippers, the other, 
that of a large, powerful person, the skeleton being in fair 
condition and covered with clothes and furs, close beside which 
were five watches and two double-barreled guns, one barrel of 
each being cocked and loaded, standing muzzle upward against 
the boat. 

Here, too, were found five or six books, such as "Christian 
Melodies," which bore upon the title-page an inscription from 
the donor to G. G. (supposed to mean Lieutenant Graham 
Gore); the "Vicar of Wakefield;" 

A SMALL BIBLE 

containing numerous marginal notes and having entire pas- 
sages underlined; besides others of a devotional or scrip- 
tural character. 

There were also found the covers of a praj^er book and of a 
New Testament. 

Among a great quantity of articles picked up were boots, 
handkerchiefs — black, white, and figured — toilet articles, car- 
penter's tools, ammunition, knives, needles and thread, 
matches, bayonet scabbards made into knife-sheaths, etc., etc. 
These articles were carefully collected and placed in the Green- 
wich Hospital, where they may be seen to-day. 

A small quantity of tea and about forty pounds of choco- 
late were the only provisions found. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 287 

Fuel was not scarce, for near the boat was a drift-tree lying 
upon the beach. 

An old Eskimo woman was met with who stated that "the 
white men marched along toward the great river and fell dead 
as they marched." 

Thus the statement contained in the record quoted above 
received living confirmation. 

Besides these startling discoveries, other valuable results 
of a scientific character rewarded the labors of these inde- 
fatigable men. The zoology, botan^^, meteorology, and terres- 
trial magnetism of the regions traversed received careful at- 
tention. Geographically speaking, Bellot's Strait was proved 
to be navigable, from which w^aters the unknown coast of 
Boothia was delineated as far as the magnetic pole. The 
"Fox" spent the winter of 1858-59 at 

PORT KENNEDY, 

on the north side of Bellot's Strait, whence explorations were 
made resulting in the revelations referred to. 

There Avas also discovered the strait which, in commemo- 
ration of the services of the gallant leader of this expedition, 
is called McClintock Channel. Setting sail on the 9th of Au- 
gust, 1859, the "Fox" arrived in England on the 20th of Sep- 
tember following, where Captain McClintock w^as warmly con- 
gratulated and duly knighted. His name first appears in this 
volume on one of its first pages. 




BONE-CHARMS OF IG-LOO-LIK, 



288 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



CHAPTER XXX. 

EXPEDITION OF HAYES. 

When, in 1853-5, Dr. Kane made his famous voyage into 
northern waters, among those who accompanied him, as we 
have already learned, was Dr. Isaac Israel Hayes, but twenty- 
one years of age and just graduated in medicine at the time 
of departure of the expedition. 

He, like Dr. Kane, believed in the existence of an "Open 
Polar Sea," and, like his inspiring leader, desired to launch 
upon its unknown expanse and to explore the contiguous lands. 

Accordingly, he submitted his ideas and plans to the Ameri- 
can Geographical and Statistical Society near the close of 
1857, and, in the following April, to the American Association 
for the Advancement of Science. 

The Association at once appointed a committee of sixteen 
on the subject, and similar action was soon taken by other 
societies. 

In aid of the project, 

FOUR HUNDRED BUSINESS MEN 

and firms of Albany, Boston, New York, and Philadelphia 
made liberal subscriptions, the aid thus received being supple- 
mented by the proceeds of lectures delivered by Dr. Hayes. 
The Smithsonian Institution loaned the necessar}^ instruments, 
and by June, 1860, the necessary funds and equipment had 
been secured. 

The expedition, numbering fifteen persons, embarked at 
Boston in the staunch little merchant schooner, "Spring Hill," 
the name of which, however, had been changed by act of Con- 
gress to the "United States." 

Setting sail on the 7th of July, the expedition arrived off 




Brig.-Gen'l A. W. Greely, Chief Signal Officer, U. S. A. 

(See Chapters I. and XL.) 




Near Cape Dudley Digges, from Top of South End of Conical Rock. 

(See page 253, etc.) 




.^A*:*-. 



South Greenland Sledge and Ancient Eskimo Sledge, found at Cape 

Baird, Latitude 8i 30 North, Grinnell Land. 

(See C'lianter XL.) 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 289 

Disco on the last day of the month, having made an average 
speed of one hundred miles a day since the departure from 
Boston. 

"When off Svarten Huk, on the 2d of August, the long- 
favoring wind died completely awa}^, the fog lifted and 

ICEBERG AFTER ICEBERG 

burst into view, like castles in a fairy tale. The sea was 
smooth as glass; not a ripple broke its dead surface; not a 
breath of air stirred. The dark headlands stood boldly out 
against the sky; the clouds, and sea, and bergs, and mountains 
were bathed in an atmosphere of crimson, and gold, and pur- 
ple, most singularly beautiful. The air was warm almost as 
a summer's night at home; and yet there were the icebergs and 
the bleak mountains, with which the fancy of our land of green 
hills and waving forests can associate nothing but cold re- 
pulsiveness." 

Four da^^s later the ship was met off Proven by a fleet of 
kyakers, while a cannon resting beneath the Danish flag on 
shore gave her loudest welcome. 

Concerning the "skin canoe" of the natives, Hayes thus 
writes : 

"The kayak of the Greenlander is the frailest specimen of 
marine architecture that ever carried human freight. It is 
eighteen feet long and as manj^ inches wide at its middle and 
tapers, with an upward curving line, to a point at either end. 
The skeleton of the boat is made of light wood ; the covering 
is of tanned sealskin, sewed together by the native women with 

SINEW THREAD, 

and with a strength and dexterity quite astonishing. Kot a 
drop of water finds its way through their seams, and the skin 
itself is perfectly waterproof. The boat is about nine inches 
deep, and the top is covered like the bottom. There is no 
opening into it, except a round hole in the center, which admits 
the hunter as far as his hips. The hole is surrounded with 
a wooden rim, over which the kyaker laces the lower edge of 



290 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

his water-tight jacket, and thus fastens himself in and keeps 
the water out. He propels himself with a single oar about 
six feet long, which terminates in a blade or paddle at either 
end. 

"This instrument of locomotion is grasped in the center, and 
is dipped in the water alternately to right and left. The boat 
is graceful as a duck, and light as a feather. It has no ballast 
and no keel, and it rides almost on the surface of the water. 
It is therefore necessarily top-heavy. Long practice is required 
to manage it, and no tight rope dancer ever needed more steady 
nerve and skill of balance than this same savage kyaker. 
Yet in this frail craft he does not hesitate to ride seas which 
would swamp an ordinary boat, or to break through surf which 
may sweep completely over him. But he is used to hard bat- 
tles, and in spite of every fortune he keeps himself upright." 

At Proven, Hayes endeavored to secure dogs, but owing 
to an epidemic among them he could obtain but six old ones 
and a lesser number of young ones. The chief trader, Mr. 
Hansen, however, kindly placed at his disposal his own team. 

Upernavik was reached on the 12th and farewell letters 
were despatched by the Danish oil-boat then about to sail for 
Copenhagen. 

While at this place, Gilson Caruthers, the boatswain and 
carpenter of the schooner, w^as found dead in his bunk. In 
arranging for his burial Dr. Hayes called upon the village 
pastor and thus describes the occnirreuce: 

"I tapped at the door, and was ushered into a cozy little 
apartment by the oddest specimen of womankind that ever 
answered bell. She was a full-blown Esquimaux, with cop- 
pery complexion and black hair, which was twisted into a 
knot on the top of her head. She wore a jacket which ex- 
tended to her waist, sealskin pantaloons and boots reaching 
above the knees, dyed scarlet, and embroidered in a manner 
that would astonish the gii'ls of Dresden. The room was 
redolent of the fragrant rose and mignonette and heliotrope, 
which nestled in the sunlight under the snow-white curtains. 
A canary chirped on its perch above the door, a cat was purring 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREiAT WHITE WORLD. 291 

on the hearth rug, and an unmistakable gentleman put out 
a soft white hand to give me welcome. It was the Rev. Mr. 
Anton, missionary of the place. Mrs. Anton soon emerged 
from a snug little chamber adjoining. Her sister came in im- 
mediately afterward and we were soon grouped about a home- 
like table." 

Leaving Upernavik, the little ship was soon sailing among 
a might}^ host of lofty icebergs, more than five hundred of 
which Dr. Hayes counted as* the expedition proceeded north- 
ward. 

On August 23d Melville Bay w^as entered and found clear of 
ice. It was crossed in fifty-five hours. On its north shore, at a 
point a little east of Cape York, was found Hans Hendricks of 
Dr. Kane's expedition. Having married a young woman of 
this northernmost tribe of Eskimos, he had continued to live 
among them. He now, together with his wife and child, ac- 
companied Dr. Hayes towards the old headquarters of the 
"Advance" in 1853-55. 

On the 28th, Cape Alexander, at the entrance to Smith 
Sound, was passed. Here, in a furious gale, the ship was 
greatly injured, but ultimately found security in Hartstene 
Bay, at a point eight miles northeast of the cape. 

While the vessel was being repaired, Dr. Hayes and Mr. 
Dodge, the mate, made a whale-boat excursion to Littleton 
Island, latitude 78° 20'. Its solitary inhabitant, a reindeer, 
was killed by Mr. Dodge. 

Meanwhile, Hans and the interpreter each killed two more 
deer in the vicinity of the ship. Upon his return, Dr. Hayes 
decided to establish himself in w^inter-quarters, naming the 
harbor 

PORT FOULKE. 

in grateful remembrance of his friend and patron, Mr. William 
Parker Foulke, of Philadelphia. 

Hunting parties were now sent out and an abundant sup- 
ply of foxes, hares, and reindeer secured. Mr. August Sonntag, 
the astronomer, and second in command of the expedition, 



292 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

busied himself in the meantime with meteorological and mag- 
netic observations, and pendulum experiments. 

In October, Dr. Hayes and Mr. Sonntag examined and sur- 
veyed 

"MY BROTHER JOHN'S GLACIER." 

discovered and named by Dr. Kane in honor of his brother, Mr. 
John P. Kane, who died in 1886. When on this trip. Dr. Hayes 
fell in with a drove of one hundred reindeer, he and his driver 
each killing two. 

During their absence three of the men at the ship killed 
seventeen more of the same kind of game. 

About this time was celebrated the birthdaj^ of Mr. Mc- 
Cormick, the sailing-master. A big "dinner" was served on 
the occasion. Similar proceedings were had on other like days 
as tending to promote contentment and good fellowship among 
the men. 

From the 22d to the 27th of October Dr. Hayes was engaged 
in further explorations of Brother John's Glacier. He ad- 
vanced upon it to a point seventy miles from the ship and at 
an elevation of five thousand feet above sea-level. Here the 
thermometer registered — ^34°, but upon returning to the ship it 
w^as ascertained that the temperature had not been lower 
than —12°. 

Meanwhile, Sonntag had determined the distance from 
headquarters to Cape Isabella to be thirty-one miles, and to 
Cape Sabine, latitude 78° 45', the easternmost point of Elles- 
mere Land, forty-two miles. By October 28th the following 
comprised the list of game obtained : 

Ptarmigans, 1; auks, 0; dovekies, 8; eider ducks, 14; foxes, 
21; hares, 12; seals, 1; reindeer, 74, besides 24 deposited in 
caches. 

In November appeared the first number of the "Port Foulke 
Weekly New^s." It originated at the suggestion of the com- 
mander, and its advent was duly celebrated. Mr. George F. 
Knorr, but eighteen years of age and Dr. Hayes' private secre- 



V 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 293 

tary, was selected as the "orator of the day." His address was 
as follows: 

•'FELLO W-CITIZ^NS :— 

"Called by the uuanimous voice of this unenlightened com- 
munity to inaugurate the new era which has dawned upon a 
benighted region, it is my happy privilege to announce that 
we have, at the cost of much time, labor and means, supplied 
a want which has too long been felt by the people of Port 
Foulke. We are., fellow-citizens, no longer without that in- 
alienable birthright of every American citizen — a free press 
and exponent of public opinion. Overcome with the gravity 
of my situation I feel myself unable to make you a speech be- 
fitting the solemnity and importance of the occasion. It is 
proper, however, that I should state, in behalf of ni} self and 
my Bohemian brother (Henry W. Dodge, the mate and editor- 
in-chief), that, in observance of a time-honored custom, Ave will 
keep our opinions for ourselves and our arguments for the 
public. The inhabitants of Port Foulke desire the speedy re- 
turn of the sun; we will advocate and urge it. They wish light; 
we will address ourselves to the celestial orbs and point out the 
opportunities for reciprocity. * * * 

"Fellow-citizens, this is a memorable epoch in the history 
of Port Foulke. We are informed that its original name is 
Aunyeiqueipablaitah, which means — after, it is pronounced — 
'The Place of the Howling Winds,' * * * on the remotest 
confines of our widespread countr^^ — a country, fellow-citizens, 
whose vast sides are bathed by the illimitable ocean. * * * 
It now devolves upon us to bring the vexed question of na- 
tional boundaries to a point — to a point, sirs. We must carry 
it to the pole itself, and there, sirs, we will nail the Stars and 
Stripes, and our flag-staff will become the spindle of the world, 
and the universal Yankee nation will go whirling round it like 
a top. 

"Fellow-citizens and friends, in conclusion allow me to pro- 
pose a sentiment befitting the occasion, A free press, and the 
universal Yankee nation. May the former continue in time to 
come eis in times gone by, the hand maiden of liberty, and the 



294 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

emblem of progress; and may the latter absorb 'all creation,' 
and become the grand celestial whirligig." 

During the first three weeks in December twenty-seven of 
the thirty-six dogs died of the same disease that had decimated 
the packs in South Greenland, 

During the period of Arctic night, the stars shone with al- 
most equal brightness at all hours. Says Hayes: 

"The moon, from its rising to its setting, shines continually, 
circling round the horizon, never setting until it has run its 
ten days of brightness; and it shines with a brilliancy which 
one will hardly observe elsewhere. The uniform whiteness of 
the landscape, and the general clearness of the atmosphere, 
add to the illumination of its rays, and one may see to read 
by its light with ease. The natives often use it as they do the 
sun, to guide their nomadic life, and to lead them to their 
hunting grounds." 

On the Gth of January there were two brilliant auroral 
displays. By the middle of the month the snow-fall had in- 
creased to 53 3-4 inches. 

A SAD OCCURRENCE 

is now to be noted. Mr. Sountag and Hans having set out on 
a journey on the 21st, news was brought back, eight days later, 
that Sonntag had fallen into the sea through a crack in the 
ice, and although rescued and vigorously rubbed by Hans, he 
became so thoroughly chilled that he died in the course of 
twenty-four hours. 

Of this young man, his commander writes: 

"Sonntag's familiar acquaintance with the physical sci- 
ences, and his earnest enthusiasm in everything that apper- 
tained to physical research, both in the field and study, made 
him an invaluable aid, while his genial disposition, and man- 
ly qualities gave him a deep hold upon my affections. Simi- 
larity of taste and disposition, equal age, a common object, and 
a mutual dependence for companionship, had cemented more 
and more closely a bond of friendship which had its origin in 
the dangers and fortunes of travel." 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 295 

Early in March, Mr. Dodge, Hans, and Ka-lu-tu-nah brought 
back the remains of the unfortunate young man and they were 
then interred in the terrace of the observatory which he loved 
so well. The place was marked by the chiseled inscription: 

"AUGUST SONNTAG, 

died December 28, 1860, aged 28 years." 

At Albany, New York, in the Dudley Observatory, hangs 
a portrait of the young scientist, and beneath it appear the fol- 
lowing words : 

"Perished in the ice at Port Foulke, latitude 78° 17' 14" 
north, December 28, 1860." 

During the latter part of March the entire party were en- 
gaged in advancing supplies to Cairn Point, at the northeast 
angle of Smith Sound, or Strait, with Kane Sea. Here were 
found the cairn and records left by Lieutenant Hartstene on 
the 16th of August, 1855, when on the search for Dr. Kane. 

From this headland the party bore northwest across Kane 
Sea, toward Grinnell Land. The route was an exceedingly 
rough one, over broken ice, and through great snow-filled 
spaces. Mr. Dodge likened the journey to an attempt "to cross 
New York over the house tops." A vast 

PA-LE-O-CRYS-TIC ICE FLOE, 

six miles long and four wide, elevated on an average twenty 
feet above the surface of the water and extending one hun- 
dred forty feet below, was met with. It was estimated to 
weigh six billion tons — a mere fragment, modern Arctic in- 
telligence assumes, of the vast pa-le-o-crys-tic ice world, which 
extends over the "Open Polar Sea" of by-gone theories. 

On April 28th, when half way across the sea, Hayes sent 
back all the men except Knorr, Jensen, and McDonald. With 
these and two sledges bearing eight hundred pounds of pro- 
visions drawn by fourteen dogs, he pushed on to 

CAPE HAWKS, 

eighty miles from Port Foulke. Here Jensen became disabled 
and was obliged to ride upon the sledge, Hayes, Knorr, and Mc- 



296 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Donald harnessing themselves to the sledge to assist the dogs. 

In the vicinity of Gould Bay numerous traces of Eskimo 
encampments were observed. 

On the 15th of May Jensen became completely disabled 
through additional injury to a leg that had once been broken. 
McDonald was left to take care of him, while Hayes and Knorr 
proceeded. 

The coast-line was now one lofty rock-wall of scowling 
Silurian rock. Contemplating his surroundings, Hayes writes: 

"As the eye wandered from peak to peak of the mountains 
as they rose one above the other, and rested upon the dark and 
frost-degraded cliffs, and followed along the ice-foot, and over- 
looked the sea, and saw in every object the silent forces of 
nature moving on through the gloom of winter and the sparkle 
of summer, now, as they had moved for countless ages, unob- 
served save by the eye of God alone, I felt how puny indeed 
are all men's works and efforts; and when I sought for some 
token of living thing, some track of wild beast — a fox, or bear, 
or reindeer — which had elsewhere always crossed me on my 
journeyings, and saw nothing but two feeble men and our 
struggling dogs, it seemed indeed as if the Almighty had 
frowned upon the hills and seas." 

Finally, on the 19th, Dr. Hayes ascended a cliff eight hun- 
dred feet high, overlooking Kennedy Channel on the east and 
a great bay, or fiord, on the north. He says: 

"Standing against the dark sky at the north, there was 
seen in dim outline the white sloping summit of a noble head- 
land — the most northern known land upon the globe. I 
judged it to be in latitude 82° 30', or 450 miles from the North 
Pole. Nearer, another bold cape stood forth; and nearer still 
the headland for which I had been steering my course the day 
before rose majesticall}^ from the sea, as if pushing up into the 
very skies a lofty mountain peak, upon which the winter had 
dropped its diadem of snows. There was no land visible except 
the coast upon which I stood. The sea beneath me was a 
mottled sheet of white and dark patches, these latter being 
either soft, decaying ice, or places where the ice had wholly 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 297 

disappeared. To proceed farther north was of course im- 
possible." 

The most distant north point visible he named Cape Union, 
while that upon which he stood was designated Cape Lieber. 
The bay at his feet was called after Lady Franklin. He also 
named the Peterman Fiord and Carl Kitter and Scoresby bays. 
At Cape Lieber Hayes planted the 

STARS AND STRIPES, 

besides the flags of various patrons of the expedition, and de- 
posited within a cairn the following record: 

"This point, the most northern land that has ever been 
reached, was visited by the undersigned May 18, 19, 1861, ac- 
companied by George F. Knorr, traveling with a dog sledge. 
We arrived here, after a toilsome march of forty-six days from 
my winter harbor, near Cape Alexander, at the mouth of Smith 
Sound. My observations place us in latitude 81° 35', longi- 
tude 70° 30' west. Our further progress was stopped by rot- 
ten ice and cracks. Kennedy Channel appears to expand into 
the polar basin; and, satisfied that it is navigable, at least dur- 
ing the months of Jul}^, August and September, I go hence to 
my winter harbor, to make another trial to get through Smith 
Sound with my vessel, after the ice breaks up this summer." 

Well can the writer, from the personal bitter experience of 
April 10, 1894, when in company with Lieutenant Peary, and 
Comrades Entrikin and Clark, on the ice cap of North Green- 
land, appreciate the feelings of Dr. Hayes when he adds: 

"Then our faces were turned homeward, but I quit the 
place with reluctance." 

The 3d of June found the explorers again on board the ship. 

Hayes was now of the firm conviction that, could he get the 
vessel to the latitude attained by sledge, during the same sum- 
mer, he would, in the course of the next year, be able to journey 
to the pole itself. 

Upon examination the schooner was found to be unsafe for 
the hazardous undertaking, and after a vain attempt to pass 



298 



THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



through the ice north of Cape Isabella, on the west coast, she 
sailed southward and entered Whale Sound. 

CAPE ISABELLA 

is described by Hayes as being "a ragged mass of Plutonic rock, 
looking as if it had been turned out of nature's laboratory 
untinished, and pushed up from the sea while it was yet hot, 
to crack and crumble to pieces in the cold air. Its surface is 
barren to the last degree; immense chasms or canyons cross 
it in all directions, in which there was not the remotest trace 
of vegetation — great yawning depths with jagged beds and 
crumbling sides — sunless as the Cimmerian caverns of 
Averno." 

Ten miles south of the cape were discovered traces of a re- 
cent Eskimo encampment. 

In Whale Sound, Hayes named various islands, capes, and 
bays, and in particular Tyndall Glacier and Inglefield Gulf. 

Sailing thence, the "United States" reached Boston October 
21st, 1861, having been absent fifteen and a half months. 

Dr. Hayes then entered the government service as a vol- 
unteer and was assigned to duty as an arni}^ surgeon. He 
died in 1881, in the fiftieth year of his age. 




FDNEBAL OF CAPTAIN IHLL. Nov 10, 1871. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 299 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

HALL'S FIRST EXPEDITION. 

An obscure correspondent for a Cincinnati paper and the 
son of a poor blacksmith, Charles Francis Hall longed to know 
more concerning the fate or fortune of Franklin and his men, 
as well as more concerning the deep mysteries of the polar 
world. He believed that some of the long-lost men were still 
to be found in King William's Land. 

Divulging his plans to a few intimate friends and admirers 
in Cincinnati, he afterwards received aid, indorsements, and 
letters of introduction from such men as Senator Chase, Gov- 
ernor Dennison, Mayor Bishop, Miles Greenwood, and others. 

Shortly after making known his plans, he received the fol- 
lowing letter from the 

GENEROUS FIRM 

of Williams & Havens, New London, Conn. : 
"Charles Francis Hall: 

"Dear Sir — As a testimonial of our personal regard and 
the interest we feel in the proposed expedition, we will con- 
vey it and its required outfit, boats, sledges, provisions, instru- 
ments, etc., free of charge, in the barque 'George Henry,' to 
Northumberland Inlet, and whenever desired we will give the 
same free passage home in our ships." 

The offer was accepted, as also that of Mr. G. W. Rogers, of 
New London, who rebuilt the old "Rescue" — a smaller boat — as 
a consort to the "George Henry." 

In his preparations Mr. Hall was steadfastly aided by the 
wise counsel of Mr. Henry Grinnell — in spite of harping crit- 
ics, limited means, and the ill success of previous expeditions. 

Soon letters of encouragement and more substantial tokens 



goo THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

of regard began to pour in. But funds were still lacking, and 
the determined Hall presented his cause to individuals, to sci- 
entific and to geographical societies — in fact wherever a dollar 
or other encouragement was to be obtained there he urged the 
cause of science and humanity. 

Finally, about the 1st of June, 1860, both vessels sailed 
from New London, Captain Sydney O. Buddington, a veteran 
Arctic sea officer, commanding. Thirty-one comprised the 
number of persons on board both ships, including Mr. Hall and 
an Eskimo interpreter named,Kud-la-go, who had accompanied 
Captain Buddington from the Cumberland Island region the 
previous season. All except Mr. Hall were experienced sail- 
ors, and for several days he alone was afflicted with sea-sick- 
ness. 

On June 21st, Hall noted the sudden falling of the ther- 
mometer and predicted the near approach to an iceberg. The 
idea was laughed at b}^ the captain, and an old sailor, who 
maintained that ice was not to be expected so soon. But Hall 
persisted with scientific reason and soon had the satisfaction 
of beholding a majestic berg rising 150 feet above the surface 
of the water. Others of all shapes and sizes were soon met 
with. 

About midnight of the 26th, Mr. Hall observed the ''North- 
ern Lights" — not the Aurora Borealis, an electrical display, 
but 

A BLAZE OF GLORY 

all along the northern horizon, reflected by the sun, long since 
set. 

The next morning, the Danish trading-ship "Marianne" 
was spoken. She had been on her annual voyage to Green- 
land and was now returning to her native port. This was the 
vessel, it will be remembered, upon which Dr. Kane had em- 
barked after his perilous retreat from the "Advance," just as 
Lieutenant Hartstene arrived for his relief. 

Somewhat later, Kud-la-go died of a severe cold caught 
while in Connecticut and was buried at sea. Mr. Hall con- 
ducted the religious services. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 301 

On July Tth the vessels anchored in the beautiful harbor of 
Holsteinberg, Greenland, where Mr. Hall was given a hearty 
welcome by the kind-hearted Danish Governor, Mr. Ehlberg. 
The Governor was daily expecting the arrival of his wife and 
child from Copenhagen, when the news came that the vessel 
had been wrecked and his loved ones lost. 

Mr. Hall learned that there were but ten Europeans in Hol- 
steinberg and about 250 in all Greenland. Among those at 
Ilolsteinberg were the pastor and two school teachers. He 
noted the advancement of morals and intelligence among the 
natives and that the boys and girls had been taught to read 
and write with remarkable proficiency. 

The ships remaining here nearly two weeks and a half, the 
voyagers attended divine worship, schools, and dances. Fi- 
nally, to celebrate the departure of the vessels, a 

GRAND BALL 

was given on deck, the natives attending en masse. Before 
leaving, the visitors sang several Danish church hymns. 

Again sailing on July 24th, the ships were soon in the midst 
of Baffin's Bay, headed toward Northumberland Inlet. 

By the laws of reflection and refraction, mountains visible 
along the coast at a distance of from seventy-five to one hun- 
dred miles, appeared raised high above the horizon, below 
which, by reason of the rotundity of the earth, they were in 
reality concealed; icebergs were made to stand as though 
inverted upon their apexes; verdant islands floated among the 
clouds; the rising moon appeared shattered and distorted, 
while the sea itself fell in ice-burdened swells in the thus 
strangelj' pictured sky. 

On the 8th of August both vessels were again at anchor, in 
Grinnell Bay, Northumberland Inlet, in company with the 
"Black Eagle," a whaling vessel. Captain Allen. Here were 
numerous Eskimos whom Hall found to be scrupulously hon- 
est. Among them were the wife and little daughter of Kud- 
la-go. Both, upon hearing of liis death, were greatly grieved. 
Poor Kud-la-go thought a great deal of his wife and child, and . 
20 



302 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

had tilled a chest with many bright-colored presents for them. 
As soon as this little girl, Kim-mi-loo by name, came aboard, 
Mr. Hall and Captain Buddington had her dressed in American 
costume. Her hair was combed for the first time, and when 
deprived of blubber, moss, and the hair of the seal and the rein- 
deer, it fell in graceful black tresses about her shoulders. She 
was then washed, after which a more beautiful child could not 
be found anywhere. Rosy cheeks, red lips of exquisite out- 
line, eyes of blue, and hair of jet black — what more could beau- 
ty possess? 

When clad in a red dress with frills and furbelows, and pro- 
vided with numerous brass finger rings, her Eskimo relatives 
laughed, shouted, and jumped about in great delight. 

Another interesting character w-as 

"BLIND GEORGE," 

or Pan-loo-yah in the Eskimo language. An expert wath the 
needle he would seize the eye-end between the teeth, the thread 
having been placed upon the tip of the tongue, and then bring 
one end of the thread so as to pass through the eye of the 
needle, all by a skillful movement of the tongue. 

Tlie tribe w^ere very eager to become acquainted wdth the 
American language and manners. 

August 17th Hall's ship was in Nu-gum-mi-uke Bay, where 
she remained four days, whaling, while Mr. Hall devoted his 
attention personally to a study of the natives and visited some 
of the islands in the bay. On the 22d, anchor was cast in a 
small arm of Frobisher Strait, or rather Bay. This harbor 
was called Chappel Inlet, in honor of Mr. Richard H. Chappel, 
of New London. Upon landing, it w^as found that they were 
separated from the waters just left by a narrow^ strip of land 
about a mile wide and so low that high tides would probably 
cover it. Here were found many fossils. From Morgan's Hill 
a fine view was had of the so-called Frobisher's Strait, a beau- 
tiful body of water sailed upon by Frobisher two hundred 
eighty-two years before. 

Forty miles beyond appeared the snow-capped shore named 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 303 

by Queen Elizabeth, Meta Incognita. Later, this hind was vis- 
ited and found to be a vast glacier, which was named after 
Mr, Henry Grinnell. It was also ascertained that this long- 
strip of water was not a strait, but a bay. 

On August 23d many of the natives visited the ship, among 
them being Kok-er-zhun, the eldest daughter of Kudda-go. 
Here she learned for the first time of her father's death and 
was deeplj^ affected. 

On the 24th, a native drew a chart of Northumberland In- 
let, Bear Sound, and contiguous lands, and all asserted that 
the only water communication to Fox Channel was b}" way of 
Hudson's Strait. Six days later an island was visited upon 
which were fifty deserted huts, the natives then living in snow 
igloos. Here was observed a sledge having runners of one 
and a half inch plank, ten feet long and shod with the jaw- 
bone of a whale. 

A chief article of diet was whale meat, the skin being espe- 
cially prized, great pieces of which were bolted almost whole. 
This meat is declared by Hall to be '^as white and delicious as 
the breast of a Thanksgiving turkey." 

On September 5th, while on Lookout Island, a piece of iron 
ore weighing nineteen pounds was found. It was a relic of 
the Frobisher expedition. 

On the night of September 27th a furious gale bore down 
upon the vessels and notwithstanding that the anchors were 
cast they were driven along directly towards the rocks. 

The row-boat, Mr. Hall's main dependence for his future 
journey towards King William's Land, was instantly de- 
stroyed, and the "Rescue" left to pound herself to pieces upon 
her broadsides. The whaling vessel "Georgiana," under Cap- 
tain Tyson, fortunately rounded a point in safety and soon 
afterwards secured herself in winter quarters in Northumber- 
land Inlet. 

During October and November Mr. Hall carefully studied 
the auroral displays, many of which were exceedingly brilliant. 

On the 13th of October he was much surprised at the ar- 
rival of the steamer "True Love," Captain Parker, and the 



304 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

sailing vessel "Lady Celia," Captain Parker's son. Mr. Hall 
visited Captain Parker and learned that he was then sixty-nine 
years of age and that he had been a constant visitor to the 
Arctic regions for forty-five years. His vessel was then a cen- 
tury old, having been bnilt in Philadelphia, and had taken 
part in many of the search expeditions. 

On November 2d, Mr. Hall was equally surprised to meet 
with Too-koo-li-too, an Eskimo woman, dressed in European 
costume and speaking fluently the English language. Her 
husband, E-bier-bing, could also speak English, but less read- 
ily. Both had spent twenty months in England. Their tent 
was found very home-like and comfortable, and in it when seen 
sat Too-koo-li-too knitting a pair of socks for her husband. 

This interesting Eskimo woman had taught to her neigh- 
bors many European habits and customs. She, however, com- 
plained that many of the whalers were bad men, and in par- 
ticular of the Americans, who swore more and w^orse than the 
Englishmen. 

On the Gth of December the "George Henry" was secured 
in the ice for winter. On the 8th, the thermometer stood at 
zero, and on the next day fifteen degrees lower. The Eskimos 
now arrived at the shij) in great numbers and exchanged 
heavy fur garments for knives and other useful articles. 

On the 19th the thermometer stood at — 20°, the barometer 
at 30.175, with no wind. The weather did not seem colder 
than at freezing. The next day the thermometer registered 
— 5°, but at midnight 14°, rising during ihe day to 21°, the 
bay becoming almost clear of ice. Eain fell during the night, 
the thermometer standing by the following morning at 32^°, 
or half a degree above the melting point. The snow huts of 
the natives vanished, and the rain prevented them from catch- 
ing seals. For the time being, destitution prevailed among 
these people, but their wants were supplied from the ship. On 
the 30th the thermometer again touched the zero mark, and 
six days later 28° below, the bay being again frozen over. 

About this time it was discovered that the natives treat 
their sick with great cruelty — seemingly the result of custom 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 305 

and uot of a desire to torture. When at tlie point of death, 
the body is talveu over the shoulder much as a person w*oukl 
carry a gun, and conveyed to a shallow grave dug in the snow 
and ice and there deposited, being cohered with the material 
removed and with stones if at hand. 

During January and February, Mr. Hall made trips to Cor- 
nelius Grinnell Bay and to Clark's Harbor, living meanwhile 
in native huts and upon native diet. 

Upon returning to the ship, he found Messrs. Brown and 
Bruce sick of the scurvy, but soon sent them to live with the 
natives, believing that a diet of fresh meat would cure them. 

Early in March a shot was fired at a reindeer, but without 
effect. The dogs then gave pursuit, one of them returning 
somewhat later, covered with blood. Search was therefore 
made and a fine deer soon found lying dead with its jugular 
vein and wind-pipe cut. 

On the 17th, Brown started with some natives to return 
to the ship. His companions stopping to cache some provi- 
sions, he became irritated at the delay and, against every per- 
suasion, started on alone. Tlie next day his frozen body was 
found lying beside an iceberg seventeen miles from the ship. 
A little later, Bruce nearly met the same fate, his life having 
been barely saved by the utmost exertions of an Eskimo 
woman. 

From April 22d to September 27th, Mr. Hall was engaged 
in the exploration of the region in and about Frobisher's Ba}'. 
At Cooper's Island he talked with an Eskimo woman who 
said that she had seen upon Ni-o-nu-te-lik Island, coal, bricks, 
and pieces of timber, and that when a little girl, she had 
heard, from the aged of her people, that strange ships had vis- 
ited these regions and that some of the Eskimos were killed 
and others stolen by the people on board these vessels. She 
also said that five white men were captured by the natives, 
but that they afterwards built a large boat having masts and 
sails and effected their escape. 

During his journeys. Hall observed great numbers of ducks, 



306 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

rabbits, reindeer, seals, and bears. On one trip of ten days' 
duration, his party secured 

9 seals (puisses) weighing 1800 lbs. 

1 ooksook (largest seal) weighing 1500 lbs. 

1 polar bear weighing 1000 lbs. 

Total weighing 4300 lbs. 

in Auiiust tlie party, wliile on Oo-pung-ne-wing Island, 
were greatly annoyed by mosquitoes. This was in latitude 
63°, longitude G5°. 

On Ni-o-nu-te-lik Island more coal was found, remnants of 
what wevo left by Frobisher in 1.578. On Iron Mountain, the 
rocks of which bore an oxidized appearance, was found a fine 
piece of live oak timber, doubtless a part of some wreck, and 
various Eskimo monumental marks. At Jones' Cape were 
found remarkably fine ones, one of them being six feet high 
and in the shape of a cross. On the summit of the mountain 
was found a great quantity of limestone. 

Still later, a native was met who had seen, when a boy, 
pieces of iron, brick, and coal. At Cape Stevens were found 
shells and fossils. 

On August 23d a fresh water stream was discovered and 
named Sylvia Grinnell Iliver. It was fairly alive with salmon, 
and reindeer abounded in the vicinity. 

A week later Hall landed upon and named Bishop's Island, 
from which could be seen the entire head of the bay, fourteen 
miles wide and a region of singular beauty. It was therefore 
very appropriately named in honor of Hall's friend. Green- 
wood Land. In this region, too, was discovered Jordan's 
Eiver, on one side of which was a limestone mount half a mile 
long, one hundred feet high, and containing marine fossils. 

On September 20th, when journeying toward headquarters, 
and upon Bishop's Island, one of the Eskilnos thought that 
he had discovered gold, but the specimen was found to be 
spurious. Doubtless the lesson' of Frobisher's day was re- 
called by Mr. Hall on this occasion and made him duly cautious. 

A trench one hundred and ten feet long and sloping from 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 307 

the surface of a rock to a depth of twenty-five feet at the 
water's edge, was also found, in which, the Eskimos said, a ship 
had been built by white men. On the top of this island were 
the ruins of a stone house, cemented with lime. It was twelve 
feet in diameter and coated thick with moss. Hard by was a 
sort of stone breastwork and a i^ile of stones, all doubtless 
indicating the work of some of Frobisher's men. 

Near Cape Tik-koon was picked up a piece of iron, time- 
eaten and weighing fifteen or twenty pounds. On the next 
day more coal was found, and on Ni-o-nu-te-lik Island still 
another deposit was discovered, beneath an overgrowth of 
grasses, shrubs, and mosses. Hall believed this to be the 
landing place of Frobisher. Besides these relics, another 
piece of iron weighing twenty pounds and semi-spherical in 
shape, fragments of tile, etc., were found. 

By September 27th Hall was again on board the "George 
Henry," the ensuing winter being spent living among the Es- 
kimos and on the ship. 

On the following 1st of April, Mr. Hall once more began 
his explorations, the most notable locality investigated being 
that of Grinnell Glacier, which was estimated to be one hun- 
dred miles in length. 

Early in June a piece of brick and a musket ball were ob- 
tained from an Eskimo, who said that the ball was found be- 
fore his people knew anything of the use of firearms. 

Mr. Hall's expedition returned to New London, September 
13, 1862, after an absence of two j^ears, three and a half months. 
He was accompanied by E-bier-bing and Too-koo-li-too, the 
celebrated "Joe" and "Hannah" of his after voyages. 



SOS THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

HALL'S SECOND EXPEDITION. 

Hardly had the "George lleory" returned than plans for Mr. 
Hall's se<i)ud expedition became public property. 

Burning with intense desire for further exploration, he 
thus addresses Mr. Cist, a Saint Louis friend: 

"My third voyage to the Arctic regions will be (D. V.) for 
discover}', to the northern axis of the great globe." This was 
even before the second voyage had been undertaken, and illus- 
trates the far-reaching purpose of this grand man. "D. V.," 
Deo volente, or by the will of God, he says, and enters upon 
the great and important undertaking with a firm reliance 
upon a superhuman power for guidance. With 

UNFLAGGING ZEAL 

he persevered in raising the necessary funds until, on June 
30th, 1864, his little party sailed from New London, on the 
bark "Monticello," free transportation being furnished the ex- 
plorers by the owner of the vessel, Mr. R. H. Chappell. 

On the 20th of August, Mr. Hall was landed with his stores 
on Depot Island, to the southwest of the southern entrance to 
Roe's Welcome. A little later, Mr. Hall, Joe, Hannah, and a 
white man hired from the whaler, arrived at Whale Point, on 
the west coast of the Welcome. Here began the long resi- 
dence among the natives. Hall assiduoush^ applying himself 
to their customs, language, and traditions. He soon learned 
that some of Franklin's party had a conflict with a tribe of 
hostile Indians, and that later all the whites, except Captain 
Crozier and three companions, starved. When first seen, 
"Crozier was thin, but his three companions were very fat." 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 309 

They had passed the ensuing winter with the very natives 
with whom Hall was then beginning his abode, and in the 
following spring Crozier and his men started south for the 
purpose of reaching the settlements of the Hudson's Bay Com- 
pany, Crozier and one companion actually arriving among the 
Eskimos of Chesterfield Inlet. 

The first winter in these regions over. Hall thus writes in 
his journal: 

"April 14, 1865. — We are nearly all ready for the proposed 
removal. North, north, farther and farther north, I long to 
get. Though the locality of King William's Land is all I aspire 
toon this present journey, yet I never will be satisfied in voy- 
aging and traveling in the Arctic regions until I shall reach 
that spot of this great and glorious orb of God's creation where 
there is no north, no east, no west. Of course, that mundane 
point is the one nearly under Polaris." 

By September of this year Hall's party reached Fort Hope, 
at the head of Repulse Bay, where the winter was spent among 
the natives. Here an oven erected by Kae in 1845 was used 
as a store-house. 

In the following spring Hall writes: 

"March 4, 1866. — The end will soon be, I trust, when I shall 
have done what I came to this country to do, and then may 
God grant me the opportunity and the proper means to make 
my way to the north extreme of 1 1 is glorious earth." 

On the 31st of the month he started with the Eskimos for 
King William's Land, traveling by way of the chain of lakes 
connecting Repulse Bay with Committee Bay, called by the 
natives sea of "Ak-koo-lee." 

When six miles above Cape Weynton, latitude 68°, on the 
west coast of Committee Bay, Hall met natives who had silver 
spoons given them hj Captain Crozier, stamped "F. R. M. C." 
At this point, his Eskimo companions became alarmed at re- 
ports concerning hostile tribes beyond and would proceed no 
farther. He was therefore compelled to return to his en- 
campment at the head of Repulse Bay, "disappointed, but not 
discouraged," as he says in his journal. The summer was 



3l0 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

spent in the exploration of liepiiLse Bay, his part}^ subsisting 
meanwhile by hunting and salmon fishing. A whale was also 
killed, the bone of which later became a source of considerable 
profit and assisted in defraying the expenses of the expedition. 

During the winter a number of whaling vessels remained in 
the bay, and Hall held frequent intercourse with them. From 
them he hired five men to assist him in his future work. 

During the spring of 18GT he made a sledge journey to 
Ig-loo-lik, where he spent a month in surveying the region 
about Parry's winter quarters of 1821-2-3. He also secured 
a number of dogs from the natives. 

On the 23d of March, 1868, with Joe, Hannah, and a white 
companion, he again started on a journey, proceeding by 
nearly the route previously traveled. In latitude G8° 45', lon- 
gitude 82°, he discovered a lake about twenty-five miles in 
length. In it were found several species of fish. Among 
these were salmon, some of which measured six feet in length. 

Advancing to a point on the mainland almost due west 
from Igloo-lik, he struck the mouth of Crozier Kiver. Ascend- 
ing this stream he found it to be an outlet of a lake about fifty 
miles in length and running parallel with the Fury and Hecla 
Strait. He applied to it the name of Grinnell. At the west- 
ern end of this lake was discovered another outlet, which, 
flowing westward, empties into the Gulf of Boothia near the 
west end of the strait. Upon this stream Hall gratefully be- 
stowed the name of his accomplished friend and admirer, Mr. 
J, Carson Brevoort, president of the Long Island Historical 
Society. 

Following the coast south from the mouth of this river to 
Cape Crozier he came upon the monument which the natives 
had told him had been erected by some white men. Deep 
snow prevented his searching for records and he therefore 
again turned northward, carefully surveying the coast to the 
entrance to Fury and Hecla Strait. This part of the coast 
had never before been explored and its delineation at this 
time may be said to have completed the mapping of the north 
coast-line of the American mainland. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 311 

Passing thence to Gifford Eiver, to the northeast of the 
east entrance to the strait, other relics of white men were 
found. 

Keturning to headquarters towards the close of June, Hall 
spent the remainder of the summer in laying in supplies for 
the following year, and in making surveys around Lyon's Inlet. 
By this means Parry's chart was corrected and a new inlet 
placed upon the map. 

The ensuing winter was spent as usual among the Eskimos, 
of whom there were at least one hundred twenty-two in 
the encampment. Food was plentiful, and Ilall appears to 
have been in a happ}^ and resolute frame of mind, notwith- 
standing the white men had declined to renew their term of 
service with him. . He writes: 

"February 16, 1869. — I must (Deo volente) do up all my 
work for which I came into this country this spring and com- 
ing summer, for I long to return to America, to prepare at 
once for my expedition to the North Pole. Night and day, day 
and night, weeks, months and years, find my heart and pur- 
poses fixed, without a shadow of wavering, on making that 
voyage. May Heaven spare m^^ life to perform it." 

Again following the chain of lakes to Committee Bay he 
arrived on the 2d of April near Cape Weynton, where he found 
his cache undisturbed, but some of the provisions damaged 
from exposure. 

A week later he reached the ice of Pelly Bay. Here the 
natives showed him many articles belonging to the Franklin 
expedition. 

Traveling thence almost due west he was fortunate in kill- 
ing musk-oxen and reindeer, and arrived in the vicinity of 
King William's Land about the 1st of May. Here he found 
other relics of the Franklin party and learned from the Eski- 
mos that one of Franklin's ships had been abandoned and that 
it drifted southward to O'Reilly's Island, in Wilmot and 
Crampton Bay, off the west coast of Adelaide Peninsula, where 
it was visited by some of tlie natives, who were convinced that 
some white men had passed a winter in the ship at that place. 



312 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

P'rom the wreck the natives had obtained a large quantity of 
wood, and, upon breal^ing into the cabin of the ship had there 
found the body of a very large man — dead. The ship was 
afterwards broken up by the ice, and sank. 

Hall became convinced that he knew where were to be 
found the bodies of seventy-nine of the unfortunate men, and 
accordingly visited Todd's Island, and the shores of King Wil- 
liam's Land. 

He succeeded in finding many relics and human bones in 
several places. One skeleton was found entire, and this, Hall 
brought home and placed in the custody of an English ofiflcial. 
Over the remains of the other bodies he erected monuments, 
and tired salutes in their memory. 

The Eskimos of Shepherd's Bay reported that they had 
seen Crozier and a party of fort^^-five men just above Caj)e 
Herschel in July, 1848; that to the wliites they gave meat; 
that they erected a tent in which they lay down to sleep; that 
when the white men were yet asleep the natives departed; 
and that in the following spring all the dead bodies of the men 
except that of Crozier were found. 

Hall then returned to headquarters, killing on the way, 
two seals, eighteen reindeer, and seventy-nine musk-oxen. 

On the 26th of August, he embarked on the whaler "Ansell 
Gibbs," Captain Fisher, and arrived at New Bedford just a 
month later. He was accompanied by Joe, Hannah, and their 
litth^ adopted daughter. Free transportation was provided 
by Mr. J. Bourns, Jr., the proprietor of the vessel. 



OR, LIP^E IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. SI-- 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

GERMAN EXPEDITIONS. 

Not to Americans nor to Englishmen alone has the subject 
of polar research been of absorbing interest. With character- 
istic enthusiasm and patriotic devotion the second German 
expedition to the east coast of Greenland was organized by 
representatives of her scientific devotees. This was immedi- 
ately upon the return of the preliminary voyage of Captain 
Karl Koldewey, and Dr. Petermann, the eminent German 
geographer. 

An appeal for funds and donations having been made to 
various towns of the Fatherland, liberal responses were at 
once received b}^ those immediately connected with the or- 
ganization of the expedition. The equipment was made com- 
plete and plentiful, every article having been carefully se- 
lected. 

Even the King of Prussia showed a warm personal appre- 
ciation of the efforts of his subjects in the matter of pure sci- 
ences, and witnessed its departure from Bremerhaven on the 
15th of June, 1869, in a manner at once indicative of a great 
mind and a kind heart. 

The expedition vessels were two — the ''Germania," named 
with just pride after the Fatherland, and the ''Hansa." 

Doctors Petermann and Breusing assisted greatly in the 
])erfections of all plans pertaining to the contemplated voyage. 

Captain Karl Koldewey, assisted by Lieutenant Julius 
l*ayer, were the very able chief officers, while Dr. Karl Borgen, 
Dr. K. Copeland, an Englishman of German education, and 
Dr. Panish, ship's surgeon, together with Lieutenant Payer, 
constituted the scientific corps on board the "Germauia." On 



314 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

board the ''ITausa," Dr. Buclilioltz, surgeon, and Dr. Giis- 
taviis Laiibe, of Vienna, represented the departments of eth- 
nology, anthropok)gy, and zooh)gy. * 

The vessels kept in company till Jan Mayen Island was 
passed. At length, on the 15th of July, the 

GREAT ICE BARRIER 

off the east coast of Greenland was approached. Says Kol- 
dewey: 

"Nearer and nearer conies the rushing noise. Every man 
is on deck; when, as with the touch of a magic wand, the mist 
divides, and a few hundred yards before us lies the ice, in 
long lines, like a deep indented rocky coast; with walls glitter- 
ing blue, in the sun, and the foaming waves mounting high, 
Avitli the top covered with blinding white snow. The eyes of 
all rested with amazement on this grand panorama; it was a 
glorious but serious moment, stirred as we were by new 
thoughts and feelings, by hopes and doubts, by bold and far- 
reaching expectations." 

The ships having become separated came again together 
on the 18th, but, owing to a misunderstanding of signals, soqii 
parted company never again to meet. 

The "Hansa" experienced good weather till the 10th of 
August, but, four days later, became completely beset. Fi- 
nally, land was seen ahead at the distance of about thirty-five 
miles, and a boat journey thither over the ice was contem- 
plated. 

At length, on the 19th of October, in latitude 71°, in an- 
ticipation of being compelled to abandon the "ITansa," all the 
articles of clothing, instruments, journals, fuel, provisions, 
medicines, etc., were deposited upon the ice-floe. A house was 
constructed of coal, and the ship's routine of daily life begun. 

An occasional walrus was slain and the meat eaten to pre- 
vent scurvy, of which, however, not a trace was discernible. 

SAD CHANGES 

overtook the party in January. "On the 11th there were 
heavv storms from the northeast, with driving snow. At six 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 3in 

in the moruiiig Hilderbrandt, who happened to have the watch, 
burst in with the alarm, 'All hands turn out!' An indescriba- 
ble tumult was heard outside. With furs and knapsacks all 
rushed out. But the outer entrance was snowed up, so to 
gain the outside quickly we broke through the snow roof of 
the front hall. The tumult of the elements which met us 
there was beyond anything we had already experienced. 
Scarcely able to leave the spot, we stood huddled together for 
protection from the bad weather. Suddenly we heard, 'Water 
on the floe close by!' The floe surrounding us split up; a 
heav}^ sea arose. Our field began again to break up, on all 
sides. On the spot between our house and the piled up store 
of wood, which was about twenty-five paces distant, there 
suddenly opened a large gap. Washed by the powerful waves, 
it seemed as if the piece just broken off was about to fall 
upon us. * * * We bade each other good-bye v> ith a fare- 
well shake of the hand, for the next moment we might go 
down. Deep despondency^ had taken hold of our scientific 
friends; the crew were quiet, but desperate. It was a miracle 
that just that part of the floe on which we stood should, from 
its soundness, hold together." 

The house was utterly demolished and obliged them to 
construct a new one. 

Thus they continued to drift, the 1st of May, 1870, finding 
them in latitude 61°, about seven hundred miles south of the 
point where the "Hansa" was abandoned. A month later, 
they arrived upon a small island called Il-lu-iddek, upon which 
they hoped to find the descendants of the Eskimos mentioned 
as residing there by the old voyager Graah. Their search, 
however, was in vain. 

Animal life there was scarce and shy. Finally, open water' 
becoming more prevalent, they took to the boat and made for 
Frederichstahl, the nearest Danish port on the southwest 
coast of Greenland. Here, on the 13th of June, they were 
welcomed by their brethren, the open-hearted, self-sacrificing 
German missionaries of the Moravian brotherhood. 



316 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

From this point they returned to Germany, arriving there 
via Copenhagen on the 3d of (September. 

Meanwhile, the "Germania" pursued a thrilling, yet suc- 
cessful career. She had searched in vain for the "Hansa," but 
had met with a whaling vessel, the "Bie-nen-korb," of Bremer- 
haven, by which letters were dispatched home. "On her deck, 
confined in a large cage, was a bear and her two cubs; for- 
tunately for them, on board a whaler they were not likely to 
Avant for food. One would think that a creature so powerful 
and active could never be taken alive, but on its hunting ex- 
peditions among the drift-ice, it frequently trusts itself to the 
water, and here, in spite of its endurance, man is more active 
and clever, and with a well-managed boat, a lucky cast of the 
noose generally falls on the neck of the swimming bear, when, 
half-dragged and half-swimming, he is hoisted on deck like any 
other animal, the noose around its neck being a guarantee for 
its good behavior. On their return they are generally sold 
to some menagerie or zoological garden, the price of a full- 
grown bear being 100 thalers (75 American dollars)." 

Proceeding, the "Germania" w^as headed much of the time 
against the strong northwest winds. These were varied b}^ 
winds from the east, which drove the ice together upon the 
shore. Thus was her progress greatly retarded, and not until 
August 5th was her gallant crew able to plant the flag of Ger- 
many upon the East Greenland shore. This w^as upon one 
of the Pendulum Islands, visited by Clavering and Sabine, in 
1823. 

To the south of her position lay Sabine Island, and far to 
the north. Shannon Island. Both were ice locked and farther 
progress could not be made that season. 

WINTER QUARTERS 

were therefore established on Sabine Island. Thence research 

was conducted by sledge during their imprisonment in the ice. 

The first of these exploring parties left the ship on the 

14th of September. The sledge was drawn by Captain Kol- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 317 

dewey, Lieutenant Payer, Trauwitz, Krauscliner, Kleutzner, 
and Ellinger, all of whom together dragged a sledge contain- 
ing six hundred pounds burden. By them Fligely Fiord and 
Kuhn Island were carefully explored and surve3^ed. Says Dr. 
Copeland: 

'The shore of the fiord was surrounded by beautiful moun- 
tain-chains — to the north gneiss — and granite cliffs at the foot 
of which were slopes covered with soft grassy vegetation ; to 
the south rose ice-crowned rocks, the highest of which (we will 
call it Domberg) was certainly more than 3,900 feet high. Kein- 
deer came from all sides of the strand in a state of wonder; 
but this time we withstood the desire to hunt, in order to lose 
no time. Onl}^ once was the journey interrupted by a slight 
topographical incident. A bear which came near us we 
frightened away by shooting, after which Kleutzner fell 
through the ice; he was pulled out, and had to cross a long, 
broad beach." 

On Kuhn Island, Lieutenant Payer discovered a very light- 
colored stone, which, on the south side of the island, formed a 
solid mass of overhanging crystals at least two hundred feet 
high. Besides this he found 

A BED OF COAL 

alternating with strata of sandstone. Still later, other de- 
posits of the carboniferous age were met with in large quan- 
tities, and thus an important factor in the future history of 
East Greenland was made known. The party traveled alto- 
gether one hundred thirty-three miles. 

The only traces of natives found were a few skeletons and 
rude implements seen on Clavering Island, where, it will be 
recalled, Clavering had seen Eskimos in 1823. 

The expedition not being supplied Avith dogs and reindeer, 
the labor of surveying and investigating the regions was very 
pevere. Nevertheless, several degrees of the east coast of 
Greenland were accurately mapped. 

The journeys made were varied almost constantly by thrill- 

21 



318 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

iug experiences with the animal life of the North, this being 
especially' the case with 

HUGE POLAR BEARS. 

An incident in which Dr. Borgen nearly lost his life is thus 
detailed by Lieutenant Payer: 

"We were sitting, fortunately^ silent, in the cabin, when 
Koldewe3=' suddenly heard a faint cr}- for help. We all hur- 
riedly tumbled up the companion-ladder to the deck, when an 
exclamation from Borgen, 'A bear is carrying me off,' struck 
painfully on our ears. 

"It was quite dark; we could scarcely see anything, but we 
made directly for the quarter w^hence the cry proceeded, armed 
with poles, weapons, etc., over hummocks and drifts, when an 
alarm shot which we fired into the air seemed to make some 
impression, as the bear dropped his prey, and ran forward a 
few paces. He turned again, however, dragging his victim 
over the broken shore-ice, close to a field which stretched in a 
southerl}^ direction. All depended upon our coming up with 
him before he should reach this field, as he would carry his 
prey over the open plain with the speed of a horse, and thus 
escape. We succeeded. The bear turned upon us for a mo- 
ment, and then, scared by our continuous fire, let fall his prey. 

"We lifted our poor comrade upon the ice to bear him to 
his cabin, a task which was rendered difficult by the slippery 
and uneven surface of the ice. But after we had gone a little 
waj', Borgen implored us to make as much haste as possible. 
On procuring a light the coldest nature would have been 
chocked by the spectacle which poor Borgen presented. The 
bear had torn his scalp in several places, and he had received 
r:.?veral injuries in other parts of his body. His clothes and 
hair were saturated with blood. We improvised a couch for 
him in the rear of our own cabin, as his own was not large 
enough. 

"The first operation was performed upon him on the cabin 
table. And here we may briefly notice the singular fact that, 
although he had been carried more than one hundred paces 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 319 

with liis skull almost laid bare, at a temperature of — 13^ 
Fahreulieit, liis scalp healed so perfectly that not a portion 
was missing." 

With characteristic zeal the scientific work was prosecuted 
by the German scholars. Actual contact with the land and 
sea life afforded opportunities of generalizing and particular- 
izing upon the character, habits, and conditions of Northern 
animation. 

In the hunt, however, great danger often attended their 
efforts. Thus is described an encounter with the walrus: 

"If any creature deserves the name of monster, it is the wal- 
rus. It is from nine feet six inches to sixteen feet six inches 
in length, weighs about two thousand pounds, and its skin is 
three and a half inches thick (a sort of massive coat of mail), 
with large eye, and a head of intinite ugliness. 

"Should one of these monsters see a boat, it raises itself, 
astonished, above the surface, utters at once a cry of alarm, 
swimming toward it as quickly as possible. This call brings 
up others, awakens the sleepers which the boat had carefully 
avoided, and in a short time the vessel is followed by a number 
of these monsters, blustering in apparent or real fury in all 
their hideousness. 

"The creatures may possibly be only actuated by curiosity, 
but their manner of showing it is so ill-chosen that one feels 
obliged to act on the defensive. The bellowing, jerking and 
diving herd is now but a short distance from the boat. The 
first shot strikes, thus inflaming their wrath, and now begins 
a" wild fight, in which some of the black sphinxes are struck 
with axes on the flippers with which they threaten to over- 
turn the boat." 

Once on the ice, however, the unwieldy monster is easily 
managed. 

On the 1st of Julj^ the "Germania" became free of ice, and, 
after an examination of Shannon Island, directed her course 
homeward, arriving once more in the joyous Fatherland, after 
a voyage of but three weeks, on the 11th of September, 1870. 



320 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

HALL'S LAST VOYAGE.— HLS DEATH.— MIRACULOUS 
PRESERVATION OF LIFE. 



With feelings of interinino'led sorrow and pleasure we now 
turn to Captain Hall's third expedition. 

Upon tlie return from his second sojourn within the Arctic 
regions Hall labored for months in another project for more 
extended explorations. The following extracts illustrate his 
purpose of mind and heart: 

Peplying to Mr. A. B. Johnson, president of the Hamilton 
County (Ohio) Teachers' Institute, accepting an invitation to 
h^cture before the Institute, he writes: 

^^ilthough the primary' object of my voyage to the North 
lias not been for geography, yet I have been enabled to make 
considerable advance in geographical discoveries. There is a 
great sad blot upon the present age, which ought to be wiped 
out, and this is the blank on our maps and artificial globes 
from about the parallel of 80° north up tt) the North Pole. I, 
for one, hang my head in shame, when I think how many thou- 
sands of years ago it was that Gdd gave to man this beautiful 
world — the whole of it — to subdue, and yet that part of it 
which must be most interesting and glorious, at least so to me, 
remains as unknown to us as though it had never been created. 
* * * S^hortly, I expect to apply to our Government for its 
aid, feeling that the day has come when the great problem of 
ages on ages must be solved under the Stars and Stripes." 

On the 8th of March, 1870, he thus addresses Mr. Grinnell: 



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OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 321 

"In three to five years, I doubt not, with tlie same aid and 
protection of high Heaven as on my two previous Arctic voy- 
ages, I wonid fnliy accomplish tlie determination of my burn- 
ing sonJ, which determination, nn^ dear Mr. Grinnell, you 
know to be to put mj foot on the north extremity of the axis 
of tlie globe." 

In writing to the Senate Committee on Foreign Eelations 
he adds: 

''Neither glory nor money has caused me to devote my very 
life and soul to Arctic exploration." 

In his efforts to organize the expedition. Hall received the 
active support of President Grant, Senators John Sherman, 
Charles Sumner, and many others, and at length Congress 
came to his aid with an appropriation of |50,000. 

A schooner-rigged steamer, the "Periwinkle," rechristened 
tlie "Polaris," was then purchased and equipped for the voyage. 

All-told, seventeen persons constituted the party, one-half 
of whom were Germans and Scandinavians. The chief per- 
sonages were: Captain Hall, commander; Sydney O. Bud- 
dington, for thirty years in the whaling service, sailing mas- 
ter; George E. Tyson, assistant navigator; H. Chester, first 
mate; William Morton, twenty years previous Kane's best man, 
second mate; Emil Bessels, physician and director of scientific 
work; Emil Schuman, chief engineer; F. Meyer, meteorologist; 
Iv. D.AV. Bryan, astronomer and chaplain; besides, Joe, Han- 
nah, and their child, "Puny." To these were added in Green- 
land, Hans, hunter and interpreter of the Kane and Hayes 
expeditions, with his wife and three children. 

Sailing from New York on June 29th, 1871, the "Polaris" 
arrived at 

TES-SI-U-SAK, 

Greenland, August 22d. This is the most northern permanent 
civilized settlement in the world and is in latitude 70° 30'. 
Steps had previously been made along the Greenland coast for 
the purpose of purchasing dogs, fur suits, and other Arctic 
supplies. 



322 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE: 

Leaving Tessiiisak, the "rolarit^" met with very little ice 
and entered the body of water thought by Kane, Morton, and 
Hayes to be an open polar sea, but which was found by Hall 
to be a mere expansion of Smith's Sound or Kobeson Channel, 
and now known as Kane's Basin. 

In a week's time the "Polaris" had attained her highest 
latitude, 82° 29', according to Hall, but 13', or about fifteen 
miles, less, by Meyer's calculation. 

Robeson Channel becoming filled with heavy ice, the "Po- 
laris" was drifted southward, until, on the 3d of September, 
an indentation on the Greenland side was entered. It was 
named 

THANK GOD HARBOR, 

a cove of Polaris Bay, in latitude 81° 38'. Here winter quar- 
ters were established. This was two hundred miles north of 
Kane's headquarters, and about three miles farther north than 
the last point reached by Hayes. The "Polaris" was moored 
to a huge island of ice named Providenceberg. 

On the 10th of October, Captain Hall, with Chester, Joe, 
and Hans, started on a trip north with two sledges and four- 
teen dogs. On the 13th, the long Arctic night set in, with a 
temperature of 7°. 

Ten days after leaving the ship, the party reached the ter- 
mination of their journey, in about latitude 83° 5'. They had 
covered a distance of seventy miles in six marches. 

A point of land seemed to be visible still north of them, 
but the appearance of a cloud prevented a settlement of the 
question. Excepting a glacier in latitude 80° 30', the moun- 
tains of Kennedy Channel and Robeson Strait appeared to be 
free from ice and snow. 

Seals, ducks, geese, hares, lemmings, foxes, wolves, bears, 
ptarmigans, and musk-cattle were found in abundance. 

Much of this journey was made over the ice of a bay, which 
Captain Hall named in honor of the celebrated Rev. J. P. New- 
man. The cape at the southern extremity of its mouth he 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 323 

named Sumner lleadlaud, as a slight token of his appreciation 
of the services of the great orator and statesman; to the one 
at its northern extremity, and near the last encampment, he 
applied the name of Mr. Brevoort. The strait into which the 
hay opens he named in honor of the Honorable Secretary of 
the United States Navy, George M. Kobeson. 

Having written a dispatch to Secretary Robeson, Hall de- 
posited a cop3' of it at Cape Brevoort. This was the last ever 
penned by him. 

Setting out upon the return, the 'Tolaris" was reached in 
four days. Captain Hall appeared to be in usual health, but 
the sudden change from open-air temperatures of — 15° and 
— 20° to 60° and 70° in the cabin had a bad effect upon him, 
and he partook of no refreshment except a cup of coft'ee. 

After taking a hot sponge bath, he retired for the night. 

In the morning he was much worse, suffering with a burn- 
ing sensation in the throat, and with vomiting. He steadily 
grew worse for a week, became delirious and partially para- 
lytic. He, however, nearly recovered and began to resume 
his work. 

On the 8th of November he was found in his cabin by Mr. 
Tyson, insensible and breathing heavily. That same night 
he died. 

A SHALLOW GRAVE 

but twenty-six inches deep was dug with great difficulty in 
the frozen soil, and, at mid-day on the 10th of November, 1871, 
all that was mortal of the gallant Charles Francis Hall was 
laid to rest. Slowly and with deep sorrow the ship's company 
picked its way by the aid of lanterns to the lonely spot. Over 
the body, covered with the flag he loved so well, was read a 
Christian burial service; and then followed the doleful sound 
of the frozen clods as the,y struck upon the coffin, intermingled 
with lamentations of poor Joe and Hannah, to whom he had 
been as a father for more than ten years. 

In July of the next year, the grave was marked by means 



324 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH I'OLE; 

of a pine board one and a half iuehes thick, upon which was 
cut this inscription : ^ 

In memory of 

CHARLES FRANCIS HALL, 

Late commander 

IT. S. Steamer Polaris, North Pole Expedition. 

Died 

Nov. 8, 1S71. Aged 50 years. 

"I am the resurrection and the life; he that believeth on me, though 

he were dead, yet shall he live." 

The grave was also surrounded with stones enclosing a 
quantity of soil to which were transferred some plants. 

Within the grave was also buried a cylinder containing 
a history of the expedition. 

Four years later, the English expedition under Nares erect- 
ed a more substantial monument in the same place to com- 
memorate the services of him who had so long and so faithfully 
sought for further light regarding their countrymen. 

It was a brass tablet prepared in England and bearing this 
inscription: 

"Sacred to the Memory of 

CAPTAIN C. F. HALL, 

Of the U. S. S. 'Polaris,' 

Who sacrificed his life in the advancement of science, 

November 8, 1871. 
"This tablet has been erected by the British Polar Expedi- 
tion of 1875, who, following in his footsteps, have profited by 
his experience." 

It was placed at the foot of the grave, upon which was 
found still alive the willow planted by Captain Tyson, in 1872. 

Upon the death of Captain Hall, the control of the ship and 
the direction of its movements devolved upon Captain Bud- 
dington, while all sledge journeys and scientific operations 
were in charge of Dr. Bessels. This was agreeable to instruc- 
tions from the (lovernment. The two men therefore held a 
consultation and prepared and signed the following: 

"It is our honest intention to honor our dear flag, and to 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 325 

hoist her on the most northern part of the earth, to com- 
plete the enterprise upon which tlie eyes of the whole civilized 
world are raised, and to do all in onr power to reach our pro- 
posed goal/' 

The ensuing' winter was spent as usual in the Arctic regions 
and there was no lack of food or fueL Joe and Hans hunted 
with great success and fur clothing was obtained in abun- 
dance. The storerooms, already partly filled with skeletons of 
animals and birds, with eggs, and other specimens of natural 
history, became well supplied. 

A large number of very beautiful fossils was collected on 
Oftley Island, near the mouth of the Petermann Fiord. They 
were of a tropical vegetation resembling bamboo and were 
found in a crumbling embankmeut. Interesting remains of 
Eskimo habitations Avere also seen on this island. In the im- 
mediate vicinity of Thank God Harbor were collected fossils 
from erratic boulders. 

Quite a quantity of driftwood was also gathered. It had 
doubtless been borne thither by the current coming from the 
north. 

Earh^ in June, 1872, Chester and Tyson attempted a boat 
journe}^ northward, but failed to get as far as did Captain Hall. 
They were, however, recalled by Captain Buddington, Avho had 
determined to return home. 

On the 12th of August, Mrs. Hans Hendrick was delivered 
of a son, very appropriately named by the crew 

CHARLES POLARIS HENDRICK. 

The little stranger was gladly welcomed and much petted by 
all at Thank God Harbor. This, it may be remarked, was the 
first babe ever born to civilized parents at so high a latitude, 
viz., 81° 37' north. 

The "Polaris" becoming free of ice, on the evening of that 
same day, the vessel steamed slowly southw^ard along the west- 
ern shore of Kennedy Channel. 

Four days later, in latitude 80° 2', she made fast to a floe 
and drifted hither and thither in Kane Sea and Smitli Strait for 



326 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

nearly two mouths without gaiuing more than one hundred 
twenty miles south, being, at the end of that time, in the 
vicinity of Littleton Island, latitude 78° 20'. 

On the 15th of October, the '^Polaris" encountered a terrific 
gale from the south. Provisions and other stores were hastily 
placed on the ice. At midnight, in the midst of the storm, 
while nineteen of the party were upon the floe, the 

SHIP BROKE LOOSE 

and immediately disappeared. The next morning she was 
seen under steam and sail, but soon changed her course and 
again disappeared. A few hours later, another glimpse was 
caught of her, but upon once more disappearing, the party 
upon the ice floe supposed that they had been abandoned. 

The unfortunate castaways made several vain attempts to 
reach the shore, and soon became scattered on different pieces 
of ice. Finally, however, by means of the row-boats, which 
they fortunately retained, they were again collected upon the 
main floe. Here snow-houses were built in which they took 
refuge. 

For several days they continued to see land, but soon that 
disappeared and on they were carried by the great white 
wilderness into the dread silence of the Arctic night. 

On several occasions they were upon the point of actual 
starvation, and cannibalism was thought of. But each time, 
the sea relented and gave them food. 

ON NEW YEAR'S EVE 

Meyer's observation showed their position to be in latitude 
72° 10', longitude 60° 40', off the coast from Pond's Inlet. They 
had therefore drifted five hundred twenty-five miles in 
nine weeks. The thermometer indicated a temperature of 
—39° F. 

February was stormy and very cold. Towards the close of 
the month provisions were nearly exhausted. 

During March a number of seals were secured and food be- 
came abundant. Innumerable iceberas surrounded the floe 



A 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 327 

and frequently broke up with a noise resembling that of artil- 
lery and musketry in battle. On the 31st they had drifted to 
latitude 59° 41', oft' the north peninsula of Labrador. They 
were then in clear water and uiK)n a small piece of ice. 

The 1st of April brought a gale and'the party were obliged 
to take refuge in one of the boats. This leaked badly and was 
loaded too heavily. The meat and clothing were therefore 
thrown overboard, the tent, skins for covering, and a little 
bread and pemmicau being all that was retained. 

GALE AFTER GALE 

pursued them and they were compelled frequentl3^ to seek 
refuge on the clashing ice floes. On the night of April Tth, the 
mass upon which they were broke in two, one section carrying 
with it the boat, the kyak, and Mr. Meyers. Amidst great 
peril these were finally saved, and the entire party continued 
to drift, wet, cold, and suffering almost the agonies of starva- 
tion. 

On the 18th a seal was killed and eaten raw, each person 
receiving an equal portion. 

On the 20th, an observation showed them to be in latitude 
o3° 57' — nearly opposite Hamilton Inlet and nearly nineteen 
hundred miles directly south of the point whence they began 
to drift. 

On the 22d, a bear was seen coming toward the party. Joe 
and Ilans, secreting themselves behind an ice hummock, await- 
ed its approach with great anxiet}'. Almost simultaneously 
two shots were fired and the creature fell dead. With shouts 
of joy the party rushed upon it, and drank to satiety of its warm 
blood. All were greatly revived thereafter and took fresh 
courage. 

By the 26th, they were in the midst of fine sealing grounds 
and obtained a plentiful supply of food. 

At last, in the afternoon of the 28th, a steamer carrying 
the American colors was sighted and an effort was made to 
attract her attenti<m, but in vain. A fire was kept during the 
night for the same purpose. Early in the morning she was 



328 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

agaiu jsigiited; it was tlie "Eagle," of St. Johu's, N. F., Captain 
Jackmau. She was sigualled, but failed to respond, as the 
shots were not heard. That evening, while endeavoring again 
to attract her attention, another steamer hove in sight. 
When now the fog broke, on the morning of the 30th, 

A GLORIOUS SIGHT 

met their e^^es; the strange vessel was close at hand, and bore 
steadily down upon them. As she neared the overjoyed 
wretches, three cheers they gave, and three cheers gave one 
hundred strong voices on the deck and in the rigging of the 
staunch little vessel. 

They were saved! The ship was the barkentine steamer 
"Tigress," Captain Joseph Bartlett, of Conception Bay, New- 
foundland. 

This thrilling but happy event took place in latitude 53° 35', 
off Grady Harbor, Labrador. The party, nineteen persons, in- 
cluding two women and five children, the youngest of whom 
was but two mouths old when the separation on the ice-floe 
began, had drifted south nearly tw^o thousand miles. 

They eventually arrived in Washington on the 5th of June 
and soon regained their usual good health, 

"Joe" and "Hannah" repaired to their home, in Groton, 
Conn., which Captain Hall had purchased for them. There 

HANNAH DIED 

of consumption on the last day of December, 1876, aged thirty- 
eight. In June, 1878, Joe returned to the Arctic seas with 
Lieutenant Schwatka and remained there. 

In the Groton cemeter^^ are tombstones bearing inscriptions 
to the memory of the following Eskimos who have either vis 
ited or died there: Hannah — Too-koo-li-too; Kud-la-go, July 
1, 1860; Ou-se-gong (Jeannie), July 1, 1867, aged 28; Tu-ke-il- 
ke-ta, February 28, 1863, aged 18 months (Hannah's first-born, 
died in New York); Sylvia Grinnell Ebierbing ("Puny"), born at 
Ig-loo-lik, July, 1866, and died March 18, 1875. Sylvia was 
the adopted daughter of Joe and Hannah. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 



329 



While the above narrated events were transpiring with 
the floe party, the 

LITTLE COMPANY ON BOARD THE "POLARIS" 

were likewise engaged amidst stirring scenes. Fourteen they 
numbered, among them being Captain Buddington, Mates Ches- 
ter and Morton, Dr. Bessels, and Messrs. Bryan and Schumann. 
At the time of separation the vessel had sustained an in- 
jury and the water began to pour in so rapidly that it was 
feared it would reach the fires before steam could be gen- 
erated to work the pump. All hands were therefore put to 
work upon the four pumps on the main deck. 

"NOW WORK FOR YOUR LIVES, BOYS!" 

exclaims the captain, as every man lays hold and streams rush 
from the pumps. Standing deep in the ice-cold water the im- 
periled men work incessantly, and insensible to the exposure 
because in mortal combat with death himself. 

The leak steadily gains; engineers and firemen work as they 
never had worked before. Should the water rise to the fire- 
plates, all will be lost! Ten— twenty— thirty minutes elapse! 
Still the brave men urge themselves to the utmost ! Must they 
raise the sea himself? God be merciful! Now forty— fifty- 
sixty minutes drag along! Will the steam never generate? 
The water rises rapidly! Ten minutes more pass painfully, 
yet hopefully— prayerfully! The ice-cold flood begins to steal 
its way over the floor of the engine-room! Soon the fires will 
be submerged and all will be lost! But behold— the great 
pump begins to move! Quick speeds the word among the 
tired men. They redouble their efforts. The engine now be- 
comes a thing of life! It gains upon the leak, slowly at first, 
and then rapidly so that all anxiety for the time-being is 

removed. 

On the following afternoon, October 16th, the "Polaris" 
reached the land and was secured by means of heavy hawr",ers. 

On this day, too, the sun Avas seen for the last time in sev- 
eral months. 



330 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Ou the uext day the crew began to remove stores and pro- 
visions to the shore. Life in the vessel was no longer secure. 
Everything available about her w^as made to contribute to 
the erection and furnishing of new quarters for the homeless 
men. She was stripped to a mere hulk and a comfortable 
structure called 

POLARIS HOUSE, 

builded of her timbers. In this work the men were greatly 
assisted b^- the natives, who came from Etah with their dogs 
and sledges for that very purpose. They worked diligently, 
good naturedly and were ever ready for a hearty laugh. 
Among them were Ah-wah-tah and Mi-ouk, mentioned by Dr. 
Kane. They seemed to recollect Mr. Morton. 

On the 25th an Eskimo living at the head of Foulke Fiord 
arrived with his wife and two children, a boy of four, and a 
girl of two years of age. The woman had her face tattooed 
and said that she came from the land on the west side of Smith 
Strait — Ellesmere Land — being one of a party that had crossed 
over four or five years before, in an oo-mi-ak, and five ky-aks. 
This family were the only survivors. They had introduced 
among the East-laud, or Whale Sound natives, the use of the 
bow and arrow. Both Kane and Hayes state that these people 
did not use that weapon at the time of their voyages. 

Some of these same immigrants from the West-land and 
their descendants were living among their kinsmen of the 
East-land at the time of our residence among them in 1893-4. 
By these same immigrants too were taught to the East-landers 
the construction and use of the kyak. 

During the winter Polaris House was seldom without its 
Eskimo visitors. They not only brought with them a great 
quantity of walrus and seal meat, but good cheer and never- 
ending sources of entertainment. To illustrate: one afternoon 
with song, and dance, and tin-pan drum they engaged in many 
of their sports, E-took-e-sha, or 

"JIMMY," 

a man from the West-land, dressed in a white navy-frock, his 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 331 

long jet-black liair falling gracef ally upon his shoulders from 
beneath a small round hat, dancing a regular ''break-down" 
to the airs of Mr. Chester's violin. 

Some of the white men, however, treated these kind-hearted 
people with disdain; but to those who were kind to them 
they in turn were agreeable and very useful. Jimmy in par- 
ticular did good service, always bringing the ice to be melted 
whenever necessary'-, and otherwise assisting in the daily rou- 
tine. 

From him Captain Buddington learned that there were 
many Eskimos living in the vicinity of Cape Isabella and all 
along the coast of Ellesmere Land. Jim's father-in-law lived 
there, he said; and in the winter-time they frequently visited 
each other, crossing the strait on the ice. This land, he also 
stated, is an island called by the natives Oo-ming-mung, from 
the number of musk-cattle to be found there. He himself had 
frequently gone round it. 

E-took-e-sha's (Jim's) wife, E-val-loo, meaning thread, did 
not belie the appropriateness of her name; for she did excellent 
service with that article, making many garments for the men, 
out of skins. Their little children greatly amused all, and 
many pleasant hours passed in playing with them. The pret- 
ty and affectionate little girl was a general pet. 

E-val-loo was particularly bright — possessing a woman's 
world-wide power of intuition — and could make herself more 
clearly understood than her husband, who looked upon her 
with 

UNCONCEALED ADMIRATION 

as she conversed. From her more was learned concerning the 
West-land people of which she and her family were a part. 
Having crossed over with some of her tribe to the place where 
Dr. Hayes had left his iron boat, which was found to be broken 
and useless, they picked up everything, including the oars, 
and passed on to the mainland where was found Dr. Hayes' 
observatory. Here they remained several days examining the 
many strange things which they had discovered. One night, 



332 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

when sleeping in the house, some fire was dropped into a cask 
containing powder and 

A TERRIFIC EXPLOSION 

followed. Four or five of the party were killed, among them 
being ''Jim's" father. The survivors returned to their native 
shore, leaving Jim and his family. 

When on his hunting trips Jim almost invariably reserved 
the walrus liver for his white friends. It is the choice part 
of the animal and particularly valuable as either a preventive 
or cure for the scurvy. 

On the 27th of February the returning sun was seen from 
the deck of the vessel. 

About this time Mr. Chester, assisted by Messrs. Coffin and 
Booth, began the erection of two boats in which the party were 
to endeavor to make their escape with the advent of open 
water. These boats when completed, three months later, were 
twenty-five feet in length, five in width and two feet four inches 
in depth. The material used was from the provision-lockers 
and the ceiling of the main cabin. 

Early in the morning of March 2d 

OLD AH-WAH-TAH 

caught sight of a bear and immediately gave chase with sledge 
and dogs. His only weapon was a spear four feet in length. 
He remained out all night, but returned late the next day 
with the bear's carcass upon the sled. Meanwhile the weather 
was bitter cold with a strong gale blowing from the north- 
east. He, however, seemed as indifferent to the weather as to 
his.encounter with the bear. When the old fellow tooli off his 
skin jacket, or koo-le-tah, to dry it, his frightfully scarred back 
showed plainly that he had previously engaged in similar con- 
tests with the same enemies. Notwithstanding his age and 
wounds he could throw a spear farther and more accurately 
than any other man of the tribe. 

Among the strangers who came to Polaris House was 

AN ESKIMO WITH A WOODEN LEG. 

He related that when a boy he was hunting birds on a hill and 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. . 333 

was seriously injured by a stone rolling upon his foot. His 
mother cut off his leg about six inches below the knee. The 
surgeon of the English ship ''North Star" made a wooden leg 
for him in 1849-50. This was repaired and renewed by Dr. 
Hayes. The one he then had was provided with an ankle-joint 
of his own manufacture. This man was a widower and some- 
what later expressed a wish to make a trip to the west coast in 
search of a wife, as, he said, the women on the east side did not 
quite suit him. 

On the 3d of Maj-, after a brief illness of inflammation of 
the lungs, Miouk died. 

This occurred at E-tah Ou-ah-tah-ny, or Sar-fal-ik. He it 
was who had been the first to help the white men to remove 
their stores from the disabled ship; and he it was who, some- 
what later and during a period of great scarcitj^ of meat at 
E-tah, had visited the ship to beg for bread and blubber for his 
starving family. 

At the time of his death Messrs. Campbell and Hayes were 
at Sar-fal-ik and witnessed the 

' BURIAL CEREMONIES. 

Shortly after Mi-ouk's death, the body was wrapped in skins 
and, with all his hunting implements, placed on a sledge and 
drawn up the slope back of the settlement and then placed in 
a hole dug i& the snow, in a sitting posture, facing the west. 
His sled and other personal property were then placed over 
him. All the men carried a bunch of dried grass in the right 
nostril, the women in the left. Their sorrow was manifested 
in their peculiar way — that of the widow in an insane man- 
ner. Says Buddington : "As I understand, the widow of Mi-ouk 
killed the youngest child, a baby about six months old. One 
of our men had prevented her from committing this crime on 
the day of Mi-ouk's death; but Jim's wife, E-val-loo, informed 
me to-day that it was really done while our men were out on 
the ice. These natives are indeed 

TO BE PITIED, 

and a mission station erected among these savages would be a 

good work." 

22 



334 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Thus is added to the commiseration expressed on behalf of 
these people by Dr. Kane, the willing testimony of the big- 
hearted Bnddington — a fit successor, indeed, to the compassion- 
ate Hall, whose very soul went out toward the entire Eskimo 
race^ — his "untamed eagles" of the distant North. The men 
also witnessed the proceedings for 

A DIVORCE. 

Mun-nee, a good-looking girl, had been forced by her father to 
marry E-noo, a youth in good circumstances, notwithstanding 
she loved one w^hose wealth was not in worldly possessions. 
The marriage was, of course, an unhappy one. 

After a time the condition of the unfortunate lover im- 
proved and Mun-nee accordingly resolved upon securing a 
divorce. This was obtained in this manner: Mun-nee lay upon 
her back in one of the igloos, her knees drawn up, while one 
end of a cord was fastened around her head. A very old 
woman, Ka-rush-uck, stood over her, holding in her hand the 
cord and uttering what appeared to be a form of words. The 
tone and measure of her voice frequently varied, and with the 
cord she often raised Mun-nee's head. This ceremony lasted 
about two hours, there being no other person in the igloo save 
Mun-nee's brother-in-law, Shu-kok by name. At the end of 
the performance Shu-kok took her on his sled to one of the 
settlements farther south where she was met by her sister and 
by her lover, who immediately proposed and was accepted. 

During the proceedings for the divorce the discarded hus- 
band remained crying bitterly in a neighboring igloo, and 
Avould not be comforted. After his wife's departure he went 
about complaining "Mun-nee pe-ter-ahng-ee-too" — Mun-nee's 
gone. 

Twenty years later the writer observed a similar though 
greatly abridged performance. A husband tiring of his wife, 
proposed to the wife of another man that, with the concurrence 
of her husband, she become his (the dissatisfied husband's) 
wife, the second husband acquiring the discarded wife. With 
much secret parleying the exchange was amicably effected — 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 333 

only to be undone some days later by a settlement of what had 
evidently caused the separation in the first place — viz., a fam- 
ily quarrel. 

On the 13th of May, Mr. Bryan, accompanied by E-took-e- 
sha, or ''Jim," with sled and dog-team, made a trip to Dr. 
Kane's old headquarters in Rensselaer Harbor, the distance, 
seventy-one miles, being accomplished in sixteen hours. An 
amusing incident happened on the way. Mr. Bryan, who was 
sitting on the sled behind Jim, fell asleep. He was suddenly 
awakened by a sharp sting caused by the end of Jim's cutting 
lash striking his face. He began to expostulate in a kind way 
with the driver, but found that he, too, was fast asleep. The 
dogs were meanwhile working their way through the snow, 
being urged foHvard by the continuous lashing administered 
by the unconscious teamster. 

At Rensselaer Harbor Mr. Bryan found the copper bolt set 
in lead by Dr. Kane to mark the site of his observatory, besides 
a great many pieces of iron, glass, wood, leather, cloth, rope, 
etc., lying about the island and on the mainland. 

At the place where Baker and Schubert were buried but 
few words could be made out of the names and inscriptions 
painted upon the rock to indicate their final resting-places. 

A few days later Mr. Bryan accompanied Ah-w^ah-tah near- 
ly to the head of Foulke Fiord, whither the native wuh desirous 
to go for the purpose of 

CATCHING LITTLE AUKS. 

There, the sloping side of Dodge Mountain, which was covered 
with large rocks, fairly swarmed with the chirping creatures. 
The view at times w^as fairly obstructed by them, and the rocks 
were whitened by their breasts. Having fastened the dogs at 
the base of the mountain, the men made a partial ascent of the 
slope until in the midst of the whirring thousands, when, with 
a net of sinew fastened upon a hoop a foot and a half in diame- 
ter, attached to a pole about ten feet in length, Ah-wah-tah 
soon captured a large quantity of them as they flew almost con- 
stantly within his reach. 



336 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Of the delicious birds the dogs were given a hearty meal, 
and then the two men proceeded to the ver}^ head of the fiord, 
where they found Dr. Bessels, who had gone there to examine 
"Brother John's Glacier" and to make some observations rela- 
tive to its rate of motion. 

Thence Mr. Bryan and Dr. Bessels proceeded to Port 
Foulke, where the grave of poor Sonutag was visited. It had 
been despoiled by the natives, who diad sought the wood of 
which the coffin had been constructed. They collected and re- 
placed all the bones, including his 

FINE LARGE SKULL, 

and refilled the grave. They also reset the headstone. The 
relics w^ere not numerous, consisting of a few pieces of glass, 
wood, and a bit of rope. 

The 29th of May found all hands busy at Polaris House 
making final preparations for departure in the boats, which 
had been completed two days previous. Each man was allowed 
but eight pounds of baggage. The fuel chopped from the ship's 
rigging and provisions for two and a hnlf months carefully 
bagged, were got in readiness. 

On the next day nearly all the land ice broke away, and 
with it the "Polaris" went adrift. The ship, how^ever, ground- 
ed after moving about two hundred yards toward the south. 
At high tide the water stood about two feet above her upper 
deck. She was made fast to the rocks on the shore, it being 
thought that she would ultimately beach herself in the autumn 
and thereby furnish the Eskimos with wood. The 

POSITION OF POLARIS HOUSE 

was determined by Mr. Bryan to be latitude 78° 23' 30" north, 
and longitude 73° 21' 10" west. 

On the 2d of June the large Arctic librarv of Captain Hall 
was carefully packed in his trunk, and, together with instru- 
ments, two log books, and a statement of what had been done 
by the expedition and the prospects of the present party reach- 
ing either a Scotch whaler at Cape York, or some of the Danish 




>s (U ^ 



OR, LIFE IN THE ailEAT WHITE WORLD. 337 

settlements, taken about a fourth of a mile in a direction E. 
IS. E. of the house and there cached. 

On the afternoon of June 3d final leave was taken of Polaris 
House. Poor E-took-e-sha and his family expressed great sor- 
row at being thus left. The other natives, however, were not 
visibly affected, the difference being attributed to their coming 
suddenly into possession of so much property. 

Twenty days later the party arrived in safety at a point 
about twenty miles south by east of Cape York. Here, when 
the party were at rest, Messrs. Chester and Bryan being on 
watch duty, Mr. Chester suddenly aroused the company with a 
thrill of joy, shouting, 

"SHIP AHOY." 

It was not cruel deception that called every man instantly to 
his feet. There, southward about ten miles, were three masts 
and the smoke-stack of a bark — the auxiousl^^looked-f or Scotch 
whaler. Hoisting the Stars and Stripes on two oars lashed 
together, the strange vessel signaled in return by running up 
her ensign that the boat party were observed. 

A few hours later all were aboard the "Ravenscraig," of 
Kirkcaldy, Scotland, Captain Allen, The ship lay in lati- 
tude 75° 38' north, and h)ugitude 65° 35' west. The rescued 
party received from the crew of the "Ravenscraig" genuine 
Scotch hospitality and also with gratitude the information 
that the ice-floe party under Captain Tyson had been picked up 
by Captain Bartlett of the "Tigress." 

Shortly afterwards the "Ravenscraig" proceeded to Lancas- 
ter Sound and Barrow's Strait, where the whaling-vessels, the 
"Arctic," Captains Adams and Markham; the "Intrepid," Cap- 
tain Soutar, and the "Eric," Captain Walker, assisted in en- 
tertaining the rescued men and in giving them passage to Dun- 
dee, whence all returned to the United States in October of 
the same year — 1873. 

Of the above-mentioned British officers we shall learn more 
concerning Captain Markham in succeeding pages. 

While Captain Buddington and party were thus being cared 



338 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

for by their generous rescuers, the United States Government 
was not idle in prosecuting search for them. Upon the arrival 
of the ice-floe part^^ in Washington, the owners of the "Tigress" 
offered her to the Navj^ Department for the purpose of seek- 
ing the remainder of the partj^ The proposition was accepted, 
and, accompanied by the "Juniata," Commanders Greer and 
Braine respective!}^, proceeded to the West Greenland waters. 
On board the "Juniata" was Lieutenant G. W. De Long, whose 
after history and tragic end will be related at a later period in 
our Arctic narrative. Commander Greer was accompanied by 
Captain Tyson as acting lieutenant. The}- proceeded on board 
the "Tigress" to Polaris House without acquiring information 
concerning Captain Buddington and party till their arrival 
among the Eskimos, whom they found in possession of the 
house. The "Polaris," the chief speaker among the Eskimos 
said, had been forced by a gale which occurred a short time 
after the departure of Captain Buddington and company, about 
a mile and a half toward the channel separating Littleton 
Island from the mainland, and there sunk. Her loss was much 
regretted by the natives. Commander Greer observed two 
small icebergs stranded upon the wreck. All articles remain- 
ing undestroyed hj the natives were placed on board, and the 
"Tigress," which then continued the search southward, re- 
turned to New York on the 10th of November. 

Wliile the "Tigress" was absent on the northern portion of 
her voyage, the "Juniata," being merely a supply vessel for the 
former, remained at Godhaven, Disco Island. Here on the north 
side of the island, in the Arctic latitude of 70°, Commander 
Braine inspected the 

WEST GREENLAND COAL MINES. 

He says: "The coal proved frail in its structure, not bearing 
much handling, and was obtained in lumps. It was experi- 
mented with for fifteen hours' steaming in the 'Little Juniata,' 
using salt water. It ignites easily, burns freely, and forms 
very little clinker. The fine coal burns nearly as well as the 
lump. A regular pressure of steam was kept up, twenty 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 333 

pounds to the square inch, with the furnace doors open part 
of the time, and at no time was the saturation above 2-32. By 
weight I judge it requires about one-fourth more of this coai 
to be consumed in an}- given time to produce a mechanical 
effect equal to the best Welsh coal. This coal is bituminous in 
its nature. It produces very little smoke, of a brownish color, 
and requires but little labor in stoking. The best results, as 
obtained, are from a thick and level fire. 

"While in this locality several veins were found which in- 
dicated good coal, and large quantities of it; so easily was the 
coal mined that our men, nine in number, would have removed 
and carried to the beach one hundred tons in eight days with 
the tools which we used." 

These mines were located upon the Waigat — the strait ly- 
ing between the island and the mainland on the north — a short 
distance from the beach and at an elevation of about one hun- 
dred feet above the sea. 

The "Juniata" preceded the "Tigress" to New York about 
two weeks. Both had previously been confirmed of the safety 
of the "Polaris" party on board the whaling-vessels. 

Thus happily ended the expedition so sorrowfully begun. 
Of the thirty-four persons related to the enterprise proper, all 
but one — its deeply lamented brain, and heart, and soul, the 
intrepid Hall, were restored to health and home. They had 
not been unmindful of Him who controlled their destinies, in 
their religious devotions, and He had not deserted them in 
peril. 

But for the untimely death of Hall it can scarcely be 
doubted that he would have achieved wonderful success. Even 
as it was, he advanced farther north than ever yet man had 
gone\ With him the myth of the open polar sea disappeared; 
liobeson Strait, the great ice-hydra of the North. Greenland 
Arctic, was made to take its place, and geographical science 
became enriched by a generous contribution with which the 
donor also freely gave a consecrated life. Botany, geology, 
astronomy, meteorology — all received persistent devotion by 
enthusiastic assistants. But perhaps greater than all else was 



340 



THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



the knowledge of the E>skimos of that region — those hardy, but 
affectionate, 

MOST DISTANT DWELLERS OF THE NORTH, 

that Highland nest of "untamed eagles," as LI all had styled 
them, and whom he loved so long and so well. 

Sureh^, as there is in the Great Beyond a place for every 
tribe and nation, will this humane race meet there a gallant 
Franklin, a lion-hearted Parry, a courageous McClure, a chival- 
rous Kane, and an heroic Hall — unsullied array of Christian 
cham|)ions who may indeed sing from over the battlements of 

Heaven, 

"Waft, waft, ye winds, His story 
And you, ye waters, roll, 
Till, like a sea of glory, 
It spreads from pole to pole." 




LIIUTLNVMT LtURLES W, CHI]PP. U i N. _DR. J M AMBLER, U S S. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 34i 



CHAPTER XXXV. 

THE DISCOVERY OF FRANZ-JOSEF LAND. 

The result of the German expedition under Koldewey in- 
duced navigators to keep away from the ice-pack of East 
Greenland and to try the more open waters of Nova Zembla. 
There the Austrians sought and found an accessible gateway to 
the far north. In aid of the project, a truly noble nobleman 
subscribed at once 40,000 florins. Preliminary to this, a pioneer 
expedition under the joint command of Lieutenants Payer and 
Weyprecht, each of whom had seen service in the previous 
German expedition, was sent out in June, 1771, in a light 
sailing vessel, the '^Isbjorn," but 55 feet in length, 17 in width, 
6 in draught, and of 50 tons burden. She was commanded by 
her proprietor. Captain Kjelsen, and carried a crew^ consisting 
of four sailors, a carpenter, a cook, and an harpooner. 

The results of the voyage were highly satisfactory. 

It was shown. 

First. That the Xova Zembla Sea is open every year as high, 
probably, as 78° north, and connected with the Sea of Kara; 
also to be unusually free of ice. 

Second. That these waters contained the least ice during 
the last days of August and all through September. 

Third. That Nova Zembla Sea is ver^' shallow, being a sub- 
marine extension of the North Siberian plains. In its extreme 
north part it was only 100 fathoms deep. 

Fourth. That the earlier expeditions had failed to pene- 
trate the ice northwest of Nova Zembla because they had ar- 
rived in the ice too early in the season — before the ice had 
broken up — and because they lacked steam power. 

Fifth. That the gulf stream appeared to have great influ- 



342 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

ence in weakening tlie ice in that region. The main expedition 
was therefore at once titted out under the name of the 

AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN EXPEDITION. 

The vessel secured was the "Tegetthoff," a small steamer of 
only 220 tons, having a steam engine of 100-horse power. She 
carried fuel and provisions for two and a half years, being 
overburdened by about thirty tons. But even then, says Lieu- 
tenant Paj^er, the historian of the voyage, she was "far more 
commodious than the miserable hole in which eight of us had 
been crowded together on our Greenland tour." 

The plan was to penetrate the ice extending to Nova Zembla 
during the latter part of August, and to establish headquar- 
ters according to circumstances, and in case of the loss of the 
ship, to gain the interior of Siberia by the use of row-boats. 
No communication with Europe was to be depended upon. 
Says Payer: 

"The motives of an undertaking so long and laborious can- 
not be found in the mere love of distinction or adventure. The 
object must not be the admiration of men, but the extension 
of the domain of knowledge. The grandeur of one's purpose 
alone can support him, for otherwise the dreary void of things 
without can only be an image of the void within." 

Sailing from Bremerhaven on the 13th of June, 1872, the 
"Tegetthoff" took her final departure a few days later, from the 
northern Norwegian port of Tromsoe, and was soon in Arctic 
ice. The crew, numbering twenty-four, consisted of Germans, 
Italians, and Hungarians, the orders being given in Italian. 

On August 1st the vessel became beset in latitude 71° 39', 
longitude 53°. On the next day she broke through into albeit 
of open water surrounding Nova Zembla. Behind her was a 
field of ice 105 miles wide. Sailing northward along the west 
coast of Nova Zembla, the staunch little vessel came to another 
ice field near latitude 75° 30'. 

In this vicinity on the 12th of August another vessel was 
suddenly descried on the horizon. It proved to be their old 
friend, the "Isbjorn." She had been chartered and despatched 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 343 

by the generous patron of the expedition, Count Wilczek, for 
the purpose of depositing a supply of provisions in case of acci- 
dent to the 'Tegetthoff" at a place on the Nova Zembla coast 
knov^n as the "Three Coftins," near Cape Nassau, on the north- 
ern shore of the island. All were greatly astonished that so 
small a sailing craft should be able to penetrate the ice to such 
a distance. 

On the 18th the crews of both vessels celebrated the birth 
of the King and Emperor of the Austrians, Franz-Josef I. 
Two days later the ships parted company, the "Isbjorn" re- 
turning south, the "Tegetthoff" proceeding northward. 

When but a few miles off the cape, on the evening of the 
same day, the further progress of the "Tegetthoft'" was effec- 
tually stopped by an ice-barrier, in latitude 76° 22', longitude 
- 63° 3' east. 

"Ominous were the events of that day," says Payer, "for 

immediately after we had made the 'Tegetthoff' fast to that 

floe, the ice closed in upon us from all sides, and we became 

prisoners in its grasp. No water was to be seen around us, 

/ and never again were we destined to see our vessel in water. 

/ From day to day we hoped for the hour of our deliverance. 

^ At first we expected it hourly, then daily, then from week to 

I week; then at the seasons of the year and change of the 

i weather, then in the changes of new years. But that hour 

never came, yet the light of hope which supports man in all his 

sufferings, and raises him above them all, never forsook us, 

amid all the depressing influences of expectations cherished 

only to be disappointed." 

Drifting steadily northward, the 13th of October found this 
motley, 3'^et enthusiastic crew in great peril. The superstitious 
among them regarded the number 

13 

with much alarm and recalled the circumstance that the com- 
mittee of the expedition had been selected on February 13th; 
that the keel of the "Tegetthoff" had been laid on January 
13th; that she was launched April 13th; that the expedition 
embarked on June 13th; that it left Tromsoe July 13th; that 



344 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE- 

thirteen days later the vessel stuck in the ice, and that now, on 
October 13th, the temperature was at minus 13° Centigrade, 
the ship being in great danger for the first time. 

Their perilous situation is thus described by the ever- 
graphic Payer: 

''Rushing on deck we discovered that we were surrounded 
and squeezed by the ice; the afterpart of the ship was already 
nipped and pressed, and the rudder, which was the first to en- 
counter its assault, shook and groaned; but as its great weight 
did not admit of its being shipped, we were content to lash it 
firml,y, Noise and confusion reigned supreme, and step by 
step destruction drew nigh in the crushing together of the 
fields of ice. -» * * According to our usual custom, a por- 
tion of the Bible was read on deck, and this day quite acci- 
dentally the portion read was the history of Joshua; but if 
in his da}^ the sun showed any inclination to stand still it 
was more than could be said of the ice at this time." 

Immediate danger, however, passed and a house of refuge 
was constructed upon the ice-floe to be used in case of accident 
to the ship. Time passed and the holidays were celebrated 
with much display. Even the dogs were allowed the privilege 
of the cabin, "The poor animals," 

SAYS THE KIND-HEARTED PAYER, 

"were so dazzled by looking at our lamps, that they almost 
took it for the sun itself; but by and hj their attention was 
directed exclusively to the rich remains of our dinner, the 
sight of which appeared completely to satisfy their notions of 
the wonders of the cabin. After behaving themselves with 
great propriety they again quietly withdrew, all except 
'Jubiiial/ who appeared to be indignant at the deceitfulness of 
our conduct, inasmuch as we had allowed him to starve so 
long on dried horseflesh and on crushed bear's head, while we 
reveled in luxury. lie accordingly made his way into Lieu- 
tenant Brosch's cabin, where, discovering 

A MOUNTAIN OF MACARONI. 

he immediately attacked it, and warned us off from every 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 345 

attempt to rescue it, by growling fiercely till lie bad finisbed it. 
^Sumbii,' bowever, witb miicb levity, siilfered biiiiself to be 
made drunk by tbe sailors witb rum, and everytbing wbicb 
be bad scraped togetber for weeks and buried in tbe snow and 
so carefully watcbed, was stolen from bim by otber dogs in one 
nigbt." 

Tbus tbe drift continued tbrougb an unbroken Arctic nigbt 
of 111 days. Tbe spring and summer of 1873 also passed, and 
still no release was apparent, and tbe tbougbt of new discov- 
eries bad passed from tbe minds of all. Fiualh', on Au- 
gust 31st, 

A JOYFUL SURPRISE 

awaited tbe courageous men. Let Payer bimself relate it: 

'^At mid-day, as we were leaning on tbe bulwarks of tbe 
sbi]) and scanning tbe gliding mists, tbrougb wbicb tbe rays 
of tbe sun broke ever and anon, a wall of mist, lifting itself up 
suddenly, revealed to us afar off in tbe nortbwest tbe outlines 
of bold rocks, wbicb in a few minutes seemed to grow into a 
radiant Alpine land. At first we all stood transfixed, and 
bardly believing wbat we saw. Tben, carried away by tbe 
reality of our good fortune, we burst fortb into sbouts of joy — 

'LAND, LAND, LAND AT LAST!' 

* * * For tbousauds of years tbis land bad lain buried 
from tbe knowledge of men, and now its disc<fvery bad fallen 
into tbe lap of a small band, tbemselves almost lost to tbe 
world, wbo, far from tbeir bome, remembered tbe lH)mag<' due 
to tbeir sovereign, and gave to tbe newl} -discovered territory 
tbe name Kaiser Franz-Josefs Land." 

Toward tbe close of October tbe vessel bad drifted to witli- 
iii tbree miles of tbe soutbernmost island of tbe group. Upon 
it tbe elated men succeeded in effecting a landing, fairly rac- 
ing witb one anotber in tbeir efforts to gain tbe sbore, after 
tbeir long imprisonment of fifteen montbs. 

In recognition of tbe services of tbe 

. BIG-HEARTED WILCZEK, 

tbe island was justly named in bis bonor. Its geograpbical 
location was ascertained to be in latitude 79° 54'. 



346 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

During the ensuing winter— 18734— tlie intellectual and 
religious faculties of the men were not left untrained. School 
was established, Payer taking his class upon the deck, the 
"pupils" frequently warming their hands by rubbing them 
vigorously in the snow while the "teacher" was often enveloped 
in a frost-cloud — the condensation of his own breath. 

"EVERY SUNDAY," 

says Payer, "at noon we celebrated divine service. Under the 
shelter of the deck-tent, the Gospel was read to the little band 
of Christians gathered together by the sound of the ship's bell, 
in all that grave simplicity which marked the worship of the 
early Christian Church." 

The sun was absent 125 days and during that time sixty- 
seven polar bears were killed, furnishing the party with an 
abundance of fresh meat. Mercury remained frozen many 
days at a time, brandy being solid. 

On one occasion the dog "Ma-tosch-kin" was killed and eat- 
en by a bear. A few hours later "Sumbu," who had witnessed 
the fate of his fellow-dog, led some of the men to the place 
where were found the bones of the jKMir dng, and the bear near 
by them. The shaggy brute was immediately slain, much to 
the delight of "Sumbu." 

Concerning the dogs used on this expedition it is interesting 
to learn something more. 

Two of them were brought from Lapland, the rest from 
much farther south. During the besetment and drift of the 
vessel, on one occasion the dogs in great alarm betook them- 
selves to a lot of chests and stared at the huge, angry waves 
of ice as they rose and roared; every trace of the fox had dis- 
appeared from "Sumbu" and he timidly and humbly offered 
his ])aw to all passers by; the Lapland dog "Pekel" licked Lieu- 
tenant Payer's hand and looked at the ice as if to ask, "What 
does all this confusion mean?" while the large Newfound- 
landers stood motionless, like scared chamoi, on the piles of 
chests. 

Of the other dogs there were "Jubinal," the red giant, with 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 347 

paws as liuge as those of a bear, and who had been brought by 
a Siberian Israelite from the north of Asia, over the Ural, and 
so powerful that he was the victor in every fight and could 
easily draw four men on a sled over a hard level surface; every 
summer he changed his coat and was then clad in a dress of 
canvas-cloth; and "Bop," the weak, but wise one; "Ma-tosch. 
kin," the grave, whose fate we noted above, and who, for hours 
at a time, would sit upon a pile of chests looking demurely 
upon the great white wilderness; the two Newfoundland 
bitches "No-vay-a" and "Zem-ly-a," the first of which died in the 
course of the first year, the second, too lazy to die, redeeming 
herself by giving birth to "To-ros-sy," the pride of the crew; 
he was a good sledge dog and a good tail-wagger besides — 
for he wagged it on deck — wagged it as he followed on the ice 
— wagged it when "Sumbu" stole his dinner — and even wagged 
it before the mouth of a bear; then there was "Gillis," the quar- 
relsome one, with body covered with scars, and the lives of 
the two ship's cats brought from Lapland charged against 
him — a good scrapper, but a veritable sham in the sledge; and 
"Pekel," the smallest of the Lapp dogs, also a quarrelsome crea- 
ture, especially with "Sumbu," the hyprocrite — who always 
made a great demonstration of friendship, but invariably hid 
when the other dogs were being hitched into the sledges; a 
greedy and dissatisfied being he, whose redeeming quality was 
to be found only in his intense hatred of bears. 

With the advent of the spring of 1874 sledging parties, un- 
der the immediate ccmmand of Lieutenant Payer, began the 
work of exploring the coast-line and the interior of the newly- 
discovered lands. The first of these started on the 10th of 
March. Traveling in a northwest direction, Hall Island was 
discovered and named and Capes Tegetthoff and McClintock 
were designated. They were found to be 2,500 feet high. No 
signs of life were met with, but the party were absent only six 
days. On the 16th 

THE FIRST DEATH 

among the members of the expedition occurred. It was poor 



248 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Kriscli, the engineer, whose emaciated body, worn away by a 
pulmonary complaint, was sorrowfully placed in a cotiin, cov- 
ered with a flag and a cross, and deposited in a fissure between 
basaltic columns and then covered with stones — his the first 
and perhaps the only human grave in all that desolate land. 

On the 24th Pa^^er crossed the channel separating the two 
main divisions of Franz-Josef Land, namely, Wilczek and Zichy 
islands. The channel was named Austria Sound. Here were 
observed the terraced beaches containing the debris of organic 
remains — undoubted evidence of the gradual elevation of 
this group of islands just as North Greenland, Nova Zembla 
and North Siberia are also known to be rising to greater 
heights above the sea. On the journey Payer followed along 
the coast of Crown Prince Eudolf s Island, and, on April 12th, 
attained the highest latitude made by this expedition, namely 
82° 5', about 160 miles from the ship. The party were absent 
but twelve days. 

On the 29th of April Payer made his third and last sledge 
trip, this time exploring the western portion of the islands, 
notably McClintock Island. The loftiest elevation seen was 
named by him Richthofen Peak and found to be 5,000 feet high. 
The partj^ were absent less than a week. 

On these journeys Payer was greatly assisted by the two 
Tyrolese mountaineers. On one occasion, w^hen examining the 

GREAT MIDDENDORF GLACIER, 

the party narrowly escaped a terrible destruction, the sledge, 
together with dogs and driver, suddenly breaking through 
the snow and falling precipitately into a vast yawning chasm. 
The barking and howling of the dogs and the shouting of the 
man at the bottom of the great crevasse many feet below first 
arrested the attention of Payer, who says: 

"All this was the impression of a moment, while I felt my- 
self drawn backward by the rope. Staggering back, and see- 
ing the dark abyss beneath me, I could not doubt that I should 
be precipitated into it the next instant. 

"A WONDERFUL PROVIDENCE 

arrested the fall of the sledge; at a depth of about thirty feet 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 349 

it struck just betweeu the .sides of the crevasse, just as I was 
being- dragged to tlie abyss by its weigiit. The sledge liaviiig 
jammed itself in, 1 lay on my stomach close to the awful brink, 
the rope which attached me to the sledge tightly strained, and 
cutting deepl}' into the snow." 

Payer dexterously- freed himself and hastened to the tent 
where most of the men were and all then ran to the scene of 
disaster, finding the unfortunate driver nearly dead but suf- 
ficiently conscious to be pulled up over the ice-cliff. The dogs 
were uninjured and lay quietly asleep beside their master. 
Upon being pulled up they made great demonstration of their 
gratitude. 

Speaking of the driver, Payer writes: "It was 

A NOBLE PROOF 

how dut}' and discipline assert themselves even in such situa- 
tions, that the first word of the sailor saved from being frozen 
to death, was not a complaint, but thanks, accompanied with a 
request that I would pardon him if he, in order to save him- 
self from being frozen, had ventured to drink a portion of the 
rum which had fallen down in its case with the sledge to his 
ledge of snow." 

With feelings by no means pleasant, but with deep grati- 
tude for its fortunate issue, the writer recalls a personal ex- 
perience of the same nature, when crossing, for the purpose of 
obtaining measurements, the great Bowdoin Glacier of North 
Greenland in the summer of 1894. Having been sent on this 
errand by Lieutenant Peary, with the Eskimos, Im-me-nia and 
Poi-doo-nah as assistants, we had neared the opposite side of 
the great frozen river, the width of which we found to be near- 
ly two miles, and were endeavoring to make our way to a point 
on the frowning rock wall about one hundred ^'ards distant 
upon which the border of the glacier was impinging in wild 
confusion. Beneath our feet a continuous trembling sensa- 
tion was felt as the long ice mass of the higher slope pressed 
against that portion upon which we were standing, fearing to 
move lest some unfortunate step might involve us in immediate 



350 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

disaster. Quick, sharp, deep-tingiiug, ringing, shrieliing sounds 
frightful enough, came, not as sound usually does, horizontally, 
but vertically up to our ears, seeming to vibrate through our 
feet, our limbs, our very bodies, spitefully shouting in our ears: 
Why, presumptuous man, hast thou set disturbing foot upon 
my chaste bosom? Beware! Beware! Beware! Split — jingle 
— crash — Oft'! Away! Away! 

Who would not have been alarmed? With deep, subdued 
tones peculiar to the hardy dwellers of the north the natives 
first gave expression to their feelings and then burst into the 
oft-repeated exclamations, ''Ca-pe Wuug-ah! Ca-pe Wuug-ah!'' 
— "I am afraid! I am afraid!" and although individual danger 
was lessened b^^ means of a long agdoo-nah, or line of walrus 
hide, fastened, at one end about the waist of Poi-doo-nah, a 
bright young fellow of about sixteen years, and at the middle 
point about the waist of old Tm-me-nia, no amount of persua- 
sion could induce them to advance, as the writer endeavored 
to direct their movements toward a particular point and in line 
with Lieutenant Peary's theodolite, erected on the opposite 
shore of the glacier, and now nearly two miles distant. Less 
guarded than the natives, for the reason that I followed in their 
tracks, I simply held the other end of the line in one hand and 
an Alpine-stock in the other. Suddenly Poi-doo-nah dropped 
more than waist-deep into a snow-filled fissure, and hardly 
was his alarm expressed in a round of frightful Eskimo than 
— wliish! down went the snow-bridge upon which the writer 
was standing in the very tracks made by the natives but a 
moment before. My feet struck and broke the icicles which 
were clinging to the edges of the crevasse-walls and away they 
went in broken, jingling jangling confusion, striking ever and 
anon against the deep walls of the chasm until the sound died 
away like the distant tinkling of sleigh-bells. What on firmer 
footing, or indeed any footing at all, would have reminded one 
of happy hours at our distant home, served on this occasion to 
awaken feelings of the solemn death-knoll. Fortunately^ the 
Alpine-stock struck the edges of the fissure transversel}" and 
the right hand involuntarily grasped it tightly; the left hand, 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 351 

too, not knowing what the right hand did, remained ti'iie to 
the God-given impulse of self-preservation and clung tightly to 
the end of the line. With words of encouragement Im-me-nia 
quickly disengaged himself and came to the rescue. And 
when all was over and we were at a safe distance, we looked 
back upon a round black hole on the snow which seemed to 
say, Ah, presumptuous man, thou didst not after all find the 
pure-white bosom so chaste — so guileless! Ah-ha! Ah-ha! tin- 
gle, jingle! jingle-jangle! beware! beware! 

In the exploration of Franz-Josef Land it was found that 
both the vegetable and animal life were less conspicuous than 
in any other Arctic locality yet discovered. The deep snows 
and vast glacier-sheets covering the land-masses doubtless ac- 
count for this. 

Notwithstanding there were many and great glaciers, mo- 
raines were very infrequently observed and no scratching or 
polishing of the rocks was seen anj'where; the dolerite over 
which they forced their way was too hard to be affected by 
the weather, and the cold black walls w^ere often seen covered 
with a clear sheet of ice. Nevertheless there were found 
patches of this grass, saxifraga oppositifolia, sileue acaulis, 
cerastium-Alpinum, papaver nudicale, and thick tufts of 
mosses. Driftwood of old date was also gathered. Among 
the pieces collected was a log of pine, which, from its rings, was 
known to be of many years in growth and doubtless a fugitive 
from the forests of Southern Siberia. 

Although neither reindeer nor musk-ox was seen, they are 
doubtless to be found — especially in the western part of the 
group. Fresh tracks and the excrements of foxes were seen 
along the north coast, and, on the Island of Hohenlohe, the 
excrements of an Arctic hare. There were also seen vast as- 
semblages of penguins and other birds, many seals, and a drove 
of white whales. 

Here, too, were seen many icebergs, and as but few are ever 
to be seen in the vicinity of Nova Zembla, it is reasonable to 
conclude that they came from some undiscovered land lying 
north of Franz-Josef Land, and therefore nearer the pole. Ac- 



352 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

cordiuglj, with what deep iuterest every frieud to Arctic re- 
search awaits intelligence from Dr. Nanseu and the Jackson- 
Uarmsworth Expedition, who seek directl}' to answer the ques- 
tion. The writer confidently expects successful results from 
each. 

The land and its parts having been explored and named in 
honor of the chief patrons of the expedition as a slight testi- 
monial of the regard in which the explorers held their friends, 
and having already spent two winters in the ice, it was de- 
cided to leave the "Tegetthoh'" and to make their way south 
by means of sledge and boat. 

Accordingly, on the 20th of May, 1874, just twenty years 
to a day after Dr. Kane had abandoned the "Advance" on the 
northwest coast of Greenland, the party began their retreat. 
Leaving also, but safely deposited, their instruments and the 
little museum collected with so much care, they took their sor- 
rowful, yet joyous departure. After having struggled south- 
ward for two months a south wind arose and drove them again 
northward to a position but nine miles south of the ship. The 
following month, however, was more propitious and the 15th of 
August found them in latitude 77° 49' — free of ice and on the 
pleasant waters of Nova Zembla Sea. But the 

POOR DOGS— 

there was no room for them in the boats, and with deep sorrow 
the men whom they had served so faithfully were obliged to 
kill them. 

At length, on the 24th of August, when near Ganse, or 
(lOOse, Land, in the southern part of Nova Zembla, two Rus- 
sian vessels hunting for fish and Nova Zembla reindeer, res- 
cued them, and on the 3d of September they were landed at 
Anarch"), Norwa}', where, two da^^s later, they embarked for 
Hamburg and in due time landed among their countrymen, 
who received them with patriotic demonstrations of great joy. 

Before leaving this chapter let us thank Lieutenant Wey- 
precht for tlie skillful manner in which he managed the naviga- 
tion of the "TegettlioflV and also the Norwegian walrus-hunt- 




X 



CU 3 



. S >< 

n iJ ^ 

.2< -2 

■ ^ ,!_) eg 

•SO 

o 



H 




tf'- 





Lieut. R. E. Peary, C. E., U. S. N. 

(See Chapter XLII.) 



f^^^irffc-V^ 








Little Auks on Sea Ice. 

(See page 335, etc.) 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 



353 



er, Skipper Caiisen, for his able assistance; aud let us also 
note that it was he who, on the 9th of September, 1871, dis- 
covered on the northeast coast of Nova Zembla, in latitude 76° 
7', the ruins of Barents' house, a roofless structure ten feet lonii,', 
six wide, and filled with ice and gravel containing household 
articles, boxes, books, etc., and which he sold for 10,800 crowns, 
as may be verified by viewing the collection in the restored 
house of the old ice-pilot at The Hague. Referring to this, 
Markham writes: 

''No man had entered the lonely dwelling where the famous 
discoverer sojourned during the long winter of 1590 for nearly 
three centuries. There stood the cooking-pans over the fire- 
place, the old clock against the wall, the arms, the tools, the 
drinking-vessels, the instruments aud the books that beguiled 
the weary hours of that long night 275 years before. Perhaps 
the most touching relic is the pair of small shoes. There was 
a little cabin-boy among the crew, who died, as Gerrit de Vere 
tells us, during the winter. This accounts for the shoes hav- 
ing been left behind. There was a flute, too, once played by 
that poor boy, which still gives out a few notes." 





GEORGE W. MEI,Y]LU3, CHIEF ENGINEER, O.S.N.: UEUTENANT JOHN W, DANENHOWEB, D.S.R. 



354 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

THE ENGLISH EXPEDITION OF 1875-6. 

Fast losing her laurels for the discovery and exploration 
of northern lands and attendant scientific investigation, Eng- 
land once more roused the Lion of Patriotism from the lethargy 
into which it had fallen as regards Arctic matters ever since 
the great activity in sending out the various Franklin Search 
Expeditions. America, Germany, Austria, Sweden — all had 
now surpassed her in the acquisition of a scientific knowledge 
of the unknown North. 

But there was still within her the spirit of try again, and 
roused to action through the efforts of that princely Christian 
gentleman, Admiral Sherard Osborn, himself an Arctic ex- 
plorer; by Sir Roderick I. Murchison, president of the Royal 
Geograi3hical Society, and an eminent geologist and geograph- 
er as well; by Lady Franklin, whose interest in Arctic sub- 
jects continued unabated till her death in 1875; and by many 
others of great influence, the government gave its sanction to 
an expedition. It consisted of two vessels, the steam-sloop 
"Alert," of 751 tons and 100-horse power, and of the steam- 
whaler ''Discovery," purchased of a Dundee firm. In command 
of the expedition and in immediate charge of the "Alert" was 
Captain, afterwards Sir, George Xares. 

Second in command was Commander A. H. Markham, whom 
we previously met on board the "Arctic," one of the whaling- 
vessels that had helped to entertain the rescued party of the 
Hall expedition. Immediately in charge of the "Discovery" 
was Captain H. F. Stephenson. All told, the complement of 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 355 

men numbered 120, many of whom had seen previous Arctic 
service. 

By the 24th of July, 1875, both vessels were beyond the ice 
of Melville Bay, having steamed to the northwest from Disco, 
across Baflfln's Bay, where, on the date mentioned, the great 
central ice-pack was struck, but which, in thirty-four hours, 
they succeeded in boring through, thus performing a feat never 
before accomplished and that proved the great utility of steam 
for Arctic navigation. 

A month later, August 24th, the ships arrived in safety at 
Cape Lieber, the limit reached by Hayes in 18()0. Rounding 
that point a good harbor sheltered by an island was found in 
Lady Franklin Bay 

Here, on the following morning, was seen a herd of nine 
musk cattle peacefully grazing on the fresh Arctic vegetation. 
By the 10th of October thirty-two of these animals had been 
secured and at one time more than a ton and a half of their 
fiesh was hanging frozen for use. On this day the sun disap- 
peared and remained absent 135 days. In this harbor the 
"Discovery" remained frozen in for ten and a half months. The 
temperature of the lower decks was maintained at from 48° 
to 56° above zero throughout the winter. 

Meanwhile, the "Alert" established herself in quarters far- 
ther north. On the 31st of August she attained latitude 82° 
24', in Robeson Channel, the highest latitude ever reached by 
ship, and only 21' south of Parry's limit by sledge in 1827, viz., 
82° 45', north of Spitzbergen. 

In Robeson Channel the sea and land-ice were separated 
by a narrow lane of water which, off Cape Sheridan, entirely 
disappeared, the hoped-for northern exit into the Polar sea 
being thereby completely locked by the union of the two 
great ice masses. 

The coast-ice was in the form of a jagged parapet, fringing 
the shelving ledges which rose to an average height of twenty 
feet and were broken here and there by deep, glistening ravines. 

Having passed the northeast point of Grant Land, which 



356 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Hayes had so longed to reach, Nares found, not an "open polar 
sea," but instead a 

"SEA OF ANCIENT ICE," 

of great age and of great thickness; for, in place of being five 
or six feet thick, as had been the case of the new floes, or ten 
or twelve feet of the old floes encountered in the channel, it 
rose to a height of fifteen or twenty feet above the surface 
of the water and had a total depth of from eighty to one hun- 
dred twenty feet, and resembled a connected chain of low, 
flat-topped icebergs. In the midst of such ice, where the sub- 
merged portion extending to the land left a sufficient water- 
way for the ship, the "Alert" found safe winter-quarters and 
was soon frozen in by the newly-formed shore ice. 

On the 21st of September, Lieutepant Aldrich, accompanied 
by Adam Ayles, left the "Alert" with two sledges drawn by 
dogs, to lay out a route round Cape Joseph Henry, on the north 
side of Grant Land, for a large party which was to follow. 

On the 25th Commander Markham, with Lieutenants Parr 
and May, started with three sledges to establish a depot of pro- 
visions to the northwestward as far as might be found prac- 
ticable. 

On the 27th Aldrich and Ayles reached latitude 82° 48', and 
from the summit of a mountain two thousand feet high, des- 
cried a wide expanse of land to the northwestward as far as 
83° 7', with high mountains on the south. They returned to 
the ship on the 5th of October. 

After an absence of nineteen days Markham's party also re- 
turned. They had established a depot in latitude 82° 44' and 
traced the coast two miles farther to wdiat may be considered 
the exact latitude reached by Parry, north of Spitzbergen, near- 
ly a half century before. The thermometer ranged, during this 
trip, from 15° to 22° below zero. The party numbered twen- 
t}' -four men, eight of whom were severely frost-bitten. 

Meanwhile, Lieutenant Rawson sought to communicate 
with the "Discovery," in Lady Franklin Ray. The ice in the 
channel, however, was found rotten and unsafe within nine 
miles of the ship and piled up thirty feet high along the shore. 



OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 3-57 

the deep snow-drifts in the raA-ines also rendering the over- 
hmd route impassable. 

The winter was very pleasantly passed on both vessels. Of 
the fifty-live men composing the crew of the "Alert" only two 
could be found who could not read. Besides a school for in- 
struction, there were also lectures, readings, concerts, and the- 
atrical entertainments arranged for the enjoyment of all. 

Each vessel carried a printing press, and from these were 
issued the programs, bills of fare on the occasions of great 
dinners, etc. 

On November 5th, the anniversary^ of the "Gunpowder plot," 
Guy Fawkes was burned in eftigy upon the ice. 

On the 9th of November Captain Nares writes: 

"To-day the moon reappeared above the southern horizon. 
Her movements are so important to us that a monthly bulletin 
is published giving the precise account of when she will ap- 
pear and when depart. She is truly the 'presiding goddess' of 
the long Arctic night; reflecting, during the event of her visit, 
the light of the totally absent sun for ten consecutive days and 
nights as she circles round the heavens without ever setting. 
During some part of her stay, full moon occurs, and she displays 
her greatest beauty. At the time of new moon, when her light 
Avould be of least value, she is absent in southern latitudes." 

Christmas was spent as is here related: 

"First of all, in the morning we had Christmas waits in the 
usual manner. A sergeant of marines, the chief boatswain's 
mate, and three others^ went around the ship singing Christmas 
carols suited to the occasion, and made a special stay outside 
the captain's cabin. On the lower deck in the forenoon there 
were prayers, and after that, captain and officers visited the 
mess in the lower deck, tasted the pudding, inspected the dec- 
orations which had been made, and so on. Then the 

BOXES OP PRESENTS 

by friends in England were brought out, the name of him for 
whom it was intended having been already fixed to each box, 
and the presents were then distributed by the captain. Ring- 



358 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

ing cheers, which soimded strange enough in that lone place, 
were given for the donors, some of them very dear indeed to the 
men who were so far away from their homes. Cheers were also 
given for the captain, and for absent comrades on the "Alert." 
A choir was then formed, and 'The l\oast Beef of Old Eng- 
land' had its virtues praised again." 

Fresh meat was had in abundance on each ship. Fish, 
beef, and mutton brought from England hung upon the masts, 
frozen hard. Sheep had also been brought and these were 
killed from time to time. 

HUNTING PARTIES 

were also quite successful. Those from the "Alert" secured 
six musk-cattle, three foxes, twenty hares, ten ptarmigans, 
twenty-six ducks, and seventy geese. 

Those from the "Discovery" were even more successful, es- 
pecially as relates to securing musk-oxen, hares, and seals. 

On the 29th of February the sun reappeared. 

On March 12th Lieutenants Egerton and Kawsou, with 
Christian Petersen, the interpreter, attempted to open com- 
munication with the "Discovery," but returned on the 16th, 
Petersen having completely broken down. His hands were 
paralyzed and his feet so badly frozen that it became neces- 
sary to amputate them. Three months later the unfortunate 
man died. 

Somewhat later the attempt was resumed with two sea- 
men, this time with success, and the cooperation of sledge par- 
ties from both vessels thereafter established. 

FROM THE "DISCOVERY" 

an exploring party of eight men under Lieutenant Beaumont 
crossed Robeson Channel on the broken and moving ice and 
explored the Greenland coast to latitude 82° 18'. Two of the 
men died of scurvj^ before reaching Polaris Bay. 

Llaving reached the limit of his journey, Beaumont turned 
toward the ship, but four more of the men soon yielded to 
fatigue. The three not disabled now hauled not only their 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 359 

four exhausted comrades, but also the provisions, ou a single 
sledge, making the journey often twice and thrice over the 
same piece of rough ice, advancing the burden in separate 
loads. Says Nares : 

''The gallant band struggled manfully onward, thankful if 
they made one mile a day, but never losing heart." 

Opportunely, a relief party consisting of llawson. Dr. Cop- 
pinger, and the 

FAMOUS ESKIMO HANS, 

of the Kane, Hayes, and Hall expeditions, found them and 
saved their lives. Arriving at Polaris Bay, the depot of pro- 
visions left by the "Polaris" was found, game was killed, and 
thus their distress relieved. Lieutenant Fulford and Dr. Cop- 
pinger explored Petermaun Fiord, and found it to terminate in 
a deep glacier front. The party remained absent from the ship 
132 days. 

At Discovery Harbor some good coal w^as found. 

Lieutenant Archer surveyed Lady Franklin Bay and found 
its head sixty-five miles inland, and to be surrounded by lofty 
mountains and glacier-filled valleys. 

FROM THE "ALERT" 

Lieutenant Aldrich, with seven men, explored 220 miles to 
the west side of Grant Land, but found nothing in sight beyond 
except the wide ice-covered sea. Setting out upon the return 
he was fortunately met by Lieutenant May, who found the 
part}^ in an exhausted condition, with only one man able to 
assist in hauling four disabled companions, the other two strug- 
ling along by the side of the sledge. 

The great event of the sledge journey is now to be related, 
namely, 

MARKHAM'S SLEDGE JOURNEY 

over the sea-ice. 

Setting out on the 3d of April, the party consisted of Cap- 
tain Markham, Lieutenant Parr, Dr. Moss, Mr. White, one of 
the engineers, and twenty-eight men. The outfit consisted of 
four sledges each drawn by seven men, and accompanied by 
an officer, two boats, four tents eleven feet long and four feet 



360 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

wide, and about uine-tentlis of a ton of provisions to each 
sledge. 

For tlie first few davs good pi\)gress was made. Upon 
reaching the depot of provisions left at Cape Joseph Henry in 
the previous season the party were rearranged, Markham and 
Parr pushing on over the rough and hummocky "sea of ancient 
ice" with fifteen men and three sledges. 

The difiiculties of the journey will be inferred from a few 
of Markham's journal entries: 

"April 10th: Distance made good, one mile; distance 
marched, seven. 

"12t]i. 1| made good; 9 traveled. 

"17th. 1| made good; 9 traveled. 

"18th. 1 made good; 10 traveled and ten hours to do it." 

On the 19th, one of the boats, weighing eight hundred 
pounds, was left behind, it being necessary to lighten the loads 
ov/ing to the disablement of two of the men by an attack of the 
scurvy, thus making it necessary to haul them. 

Upon quitting the boat its mast was decorated with red 
cloths to serve as signals upon the return of the party. 

Thus the snail-like journey was continued. Says Nares: 

"The journey was consequently an incessant battle to over- 
come ever-recurring obstacles, each hard-worn success stimu- 
lating them for the next struggle. A passage-way had always 
to be cut through the squeezed-up ice with pickaxes, an extra 
one being carried for the purpose, and an incline picked out 
of the perpendicular side of the high floes, or roadway built up, 
before the sledges — generally one at a time— could be brought 
on. Instead of advancing with a steady walk, the usual means 
of progression, more than half of each day was expended by 
the whole party facing the sledge and pulling it forward a few 
feet at a time." 

On the 30th of April a dense fog was encountered and 
threatened to entangle them in a labyrinth of hummocks. 
They, however, struggled on for ten days, when a stop was 
made and a camp for the invalids established and left in charge 
of the cooks. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 361 

On the 12tli Markham and Parr again set out with such 
of the men as were able to venture forward, in order to make 
a dash for the highest point attainable. This last march is 
thus related hj Markham : 

"We had some very severe walking, through which the 
labor of dragging a sledge would be interminable, and occa- 
sionally almost disappearing through cracks and fissures, un- 
til twenty minutes to noon, when a halt was called. The 
artificial horizon was set up, and the 

FLAGS AND BANNERS WERE DISPLAYED, 

these fluttering out bravely before a southwest wind, which 
latter, however, was decidedl}- cold and unpleasant. At noon 
we obtained a good altitude and proclaimed our latitude to 
be 83° 20' 26" north, exactly three hundred and ninety-nine and 
one-half miles from the North Pole. On this being duly an- 
nounced, three cheers were given, with one more for Captain 
Nares; then the whole party, in the exuberance of their spirits 
at having reached their turning point, sang 'The Union Jack 
of Old England,' by the grand paleocrystic sledging chorus, 
winding up, like loyal subjects, with 'God Save the Queen.' " 
They had traveled seventy miles north of Grant Land over 
the paleocrystic ice. 

Both Markham and Parr were eager to push on, but the 
salvation of the party depended upon a speedy return, for 
nearly all of the men were stricken with the scurvy. Forced 
marches carried them to Depot Point, near Cape Joseph Henry, 
on the 7th of June. Here, while Markham watched and labored 
for the comfort of his men, Parr set out alone for the "Alert," 
thirty miles distant. Stimulated with the consciousness that 
upon his exertions depended the lives of the stricken men, he 
proved himself equal to the emergency and reached the ship 
in twenty-four hours. 

Before midnight of the 8th Captain Nares was on the way 
to Depot Point, at the head of a relieving party. Lieutenant 
May, Dr. Moss, and a seaman, with a light dog sledge, were 
sent forward as a lightly-equipped advance party and reached 



362 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

the camp fifty hours from Parr's departure. In that short 
interval George Porter, one of the afflicted, had died and was 
buried in the snow. No other life was lost. 

Of the fifteen men who, two months before, had left Depot 
Point, only three were able to assist in dragging back the 
sledges; nine had to be hauled and three struggled along of 
themselves. 

Meanwliile, Captain Stephenson, of the "Discovery," 
crossed Robeson Channel and, in the presence of twenty-four 
officers and men, on the 13th of May, erected at Hall's grave 
the brass tablet referred to in preceding pages. It was indeed 
a graceful act and one that all Americans gratefully acknowl- 
edge. 

In taking leave of the narrative of the Nares expedition it 
is interesting to note that close to Cape Beechey, six or seven 
miles from the eighty-second parallel of latitude, were found 
the 

MOST NORTHERN TRACES OF MAN 

yet discovered. These were a stone lamp, a very perfect snow- 
scraper made of walrus tusk, and the framework of a large 
wood sledge. 

Upon the return of Markham's sledging part}-. Captain 
Nares returned to England, arriving there October 27, 1876, 
after an absence of sixteen months, with both ships in good 
condition and with a loss of but four men. 

Captain Nares proved liimself to be a brave and efficient 
officer. With Kellet and McClintock he had seen previous ser- 
vice in the search for Franklin. The expedition under his 
immediate command must be granted to have been a marked 
success, only a few closet critics, paper philosophers, and 
ne'er do anj^thing navigators, urging the contrary. 

The only possible criticism that ma}^ be offered lies in the 
fact that the men of the expedition had not been fortified 
against the attacks of the scurvy as had been the officers. 
Had they continued in as good condition as the officers it is 
not difficult to foresee that much more might have been 
accomplished. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 362 



CHAPTEK XXXVII. 

SCHWATKA'S EXPEDITION TO KING WILLIAM'S LAND. 

Among the notewortbj^ efforts made to fathom the nij^- 
teries of Sir John Franklin's fate, and to recover documents 
partaining to the historj^ of the unfortunate enterprise, the 
Schwatka "search" expedition elicits our grateful appre- 
ciation. 

Ever since his boyhood daj^s Lieutenant Frederick Schwat- 
ka, of the United States Nav}^, had taken an intense interest 
in the matter of the search. The vague and unsatisfactory 
knowledge already acquired — the individual decease of Frank- 
lin, determined by McClintock in 1859, the scanty records of 
Gore and Crozier, the hypothesis of Rae, and its confirmation 
by Hall, that most of the party died of starvation — all served 
to arouse within Schwatka a desire to make known the actual 
course of Franklin and the fate of his ships. 

Having obtained leave-of-absence from duty on the plains, 
he went to New York and asked permission to organize a 
party to search for the supposed records of Franklin's last 
voyage. In this he received the assistance of Judge Dal,y, 
President of the Geographical Society, who endorsed his appli- 
cation to be detailed as commander of the proposed expedition. 
This was readily granted by General Sherman. 

PRIVATE SUBSCRIPTIONS 

having provided the necessary provisions and equipment, 
Messrs. Morrison and Brown, ship-owners, kindly placed at the 
disposal of the expedition for transportation purposes, the 
"Eothen," Captain T. F. Barry. She was a stout, though small 
vessel, of only one hundred two tons of burden. 



364 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; . 

The exploriixg party consisted of but five men — Lieutenant 
Schwatka, in command; Mr. William H. Gilder, second in com- 
mand; Messrs. Klut-scbak and Melms, already experienced in 
Arctic ice, and of Joseph E-bier-bing, the faithful "Joe," the 
ally and friend of Captain Hall. 

Before sailing. Lieutenant Schwatka received the following 
instructions from Mr. Morrison: 

"Upon your arrival at Kepulse Bay you will prepare for 
your inland journey b}^ building your sledges and taking such 
provisions as are necessary. As soon as sufficient snow is on 
the ground you will start for King William's Land and the 
Gulf of Boothia. Take daily observations, and whenever j^ou 
discover any error in any of the charts 3'ou will correct the 
same, marking thereon also any new" discoveries you may be 
fortunate enough to make." 

On the Tth of August, 1878, the "Eothen" reached Whale 
Point, at the entrance to Roe's Welcome. Here the explorers 
were soon visited by several of Hall's former Eskimo compan- 
ions, notably Ah-mou (the wolf), Ik-ah-mah (the fire), and Pa- 
pa-tew^-ah, or Too-goo-lan. 

In this vicinity, latitude 03° 51' north, longitude 90° 26' 15" 
west, Schwatka's little band spent the winter of 1878-9, inur- 
ing themselves to the Eskimo mode of life, as Hall had done 
fifteen years previous. 

During the winter and early spring various sledge trips 
were made in preparation for the summer's journey 

TO KING WILLIAM'S LAND. 

On one of these Mr. Gilder visited the friendly Kin-ne-pa-toos, 
a tribe of Eskimos, many of whom had never before seen a 
white person. Lieutenant Schwatka also made a preliminary 
sledge journey northward. 

On April 1st the party, accompanied by thirteen Eskimos, 
men, women, and children, began the long journey northward. 
The sledges, burdened with two and a half tons of provisions, 
were drawn by forty-two dogs. 

Six weeks later, on a branch of Back's River, a small party 



• OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 365 

of Ook-joo-liks were met with, and from them it was learned 
that some years previous a ship had been found in the ice off 
the west coast of Adehiide Peninsula; that from it knives, 
spoons, and utensils had been taken by cutting a hole through 
the side of the ship on a level with the ice, as the natives did 
not know how to get in through the doors; that they saw no 
bread; that books were found and left on board; and that, with 
the breaking up of the ice in the following summer, the water 
filled the ship through the hole cut in her side and caused 
her to sink. 

Somewhat later a party of Neit-chil-lis were met and the 
foregoing information concerning the ship was confirmed by 
them. The place where she sank was also pointed out. Cap- 
tain Hall had determined this to be in latitude 68° 30' north, 
longitude 99° west. 

Early in June the site of the camp probably occupied by 
Captain Crozier was reached. This was on the mainland of 
King William's Land. Here were found cooking stoves, ket- 
tles, clothing, blanliets, etc., and in 

AN OPEN GRAVE 

some canvas, gilt buttons, the object-glass of a telescope, and a 
quantity of blue cloth, wrapped about a body, the head of 
which rested upon a figured silk pocket-handkerchief remark- 
ably preserved. 

Upon a stone, at the foot of the grave, was discovered a 
thickly begrimed silver medal two and a half inches in diame- 
ter, bearing upon its obverse a bas-relief of George IV., sur- 
rounded by the words "Georgius IIII., D. G. Brittanniarum 
Kex, 1820," and upon its reverse, a laurel wreath, and the 
words "Awarded to John Irving, Midsummer, 1830," being 
enclosed by the inscription "Second Mathematical Prize, Royal 
Naval College." 

And thus was identified the grave of the gallant young 
Lieutenant Irving, third officer of the "Terror." Carefully 
were the sacred ashes gathered, and in due time sent to grate- 

24 



366 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLEj 

ful relatives in Scotland, where they were reinterred with 
honor, in their native soil. 

July was spent in as thorough an examination of the island 
as was possible, the party advancing about ten miles each 
day, and subsisting upon ducks, geese, and reindeer, the flesh 
being eaten almost as soon as killed. The use of so much raw 
meat brought on frequent attacks of diarrhoea. Numerous 
cairns, previously erected by white men, were found, but they 
contained no important relics. 

At Erebus Bay were found the wreck of a ship's boat, 
cloths, iron, and human bones. Portions of four skeletons 
were buried here. 

The ice now breaking up, the party were compelled to carry 
everything on their backs as they marched. Terror Bay was 
reached on August 3d, and on September 19th, near Gladman 
Point, on vSimpson's Strait, winter quarters were established. 
Reindeer were seen in 

IMMENSE HERDS. 

In ten minutes Too-loo-ah killed seven of the summer-fattened 
creatures, kissing his rifle for its good behavior. On the 30th, 
twenty-six were killed. By the middle of October no more 
were seen. 

On the 10th of December the party began the return jour- 
ney, subsisting upon salmon, a species of herring, and rein- 
deer. Half of the dogs died and they were obliged to defend 
themselves against the wolves. 

The winter, too, the natives said, was unusually severe, 
the following temperatures (Fahrenheit) being recorded: 

Dec. Jan. Feb. 

Average —50° —53° —45° 

Minimum —69° —71° —69° 

Having left the river, the party struck directly across the 
country for Depot Island. The region fairly 

SWARMED WITH WOLVES, 

which attacked the natives and killed some of the dogs. On 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD, 



367 



the 23d of February a pack of twenty attacked Too-loo-ah, 
who, however, killed one with the butt of his gun and made 
good his escape while the pack were fighting over and de- 
vouring the carcass. 

Thus, through snow and gale and darkness, the little band 
struggled on till, on March 4th, Depot Island w^as again 
reached. Here Schwatka was amazed to learn that Captain 
Barry had failed to leave supplies with the faithful Ah-mou 
as he had promised to do. Accordingly, the weary men were 
compelled to proceed to Marble Island, which was not reached 
till on the 21st, thus terminating the long sledge and foot 
journey of 3,251 statute miles, during an absence of nearly a 
year. At Marble Island was found the only vessel in the bay. 
This was the whaler "George Mary," and on her the explorers 
took passage, arriving home September 22, 1880. 

Not only in America, but in Europe, the great services 
which Lieutenant Schwatka had thus rendered to the cause 
of science and humanity received substantial and honorable 
reward. 

Wise foresight, executive ability, and undaunted iron will 
everywhere assert themselves in the career of this explorer. 




AUBO^ t)K£T*.U£D BY 



r-,OQtJ> yF''THFfrv 



368 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

NORDENSKIOLD'S WONDERFUL VOYAGE. 

The discovery of the northeast passage forms one of the 
most interesting and instrnctive of all Arctic narratives. Its 
accomplishment may be said to have formed the culmination of 
k)no' years of study and effort within Arctic ice on the part of 
Prof. A. E. Nordenskiold. 

Indeed, as Turner truly said concerning one of his paint- 
ings, that it had required "all of his life" in which to execute it, 
so might this persevering scholar have said of his attainment of 
the northeast passage, that it, too, was the work of a lifetime. 

He, the son of a naturalist, was born in 1832, and sprang 
from a long line of ardent students of nature, all of whom 
were travelers as well. 

Besides, fhe}^ were philanthropists, and devotedly advo- 
cated the maintenance of peace among all Christian nations, 
and took active part in efforts for the abolition of slavery. 

The mother of Adolf, the subject of this sketch, possessed 
a fearless character and was of a respectable but by no means 
illustrious family. The striking and original type of character 
exhibited by this afterwards-celebrated son was certainly an 
inheritance in the strictest sense. Its originality W'as of a 
family likeness. 

Having left, for political reasons, his native Russian Fin- 
land, he was made State mineralogist of Sweden in 1858. In 
the course of the next twei:ty years he was engaged either as 
leader or prominent member, in no less than seven Arctic 
expeditions — to Spitzbergen, Greenland, Siberia, etc. Towards 
the expenses of five of these, Nordenskiold's warm friend, the 
wealthy Dr. Dickson, contributed liberally. Other private 





F. W. Stokes, 

Artist. 



Eivind Astrup. 

Dr. E. E. Vincent, 

Surgeon. 
(See Chapter XLII.) 



Jas. W. Davidson. 




Our Fallen Comrade — Eivind Astrup.* 
Samuel J. Entrikin, George Harlow Clark, 

Socond-in-C'oiiunand. The Author. Naturalist, 

(See Chapter XLII. *See page 101.) 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 369 

subscriptions, supplemented by aid from the Swedish govern- 
ment, enabled many of the foremost scientists of the times 
to pursue their invaluable investigations in Spitzbergen, 
Greenland, and the adjoining seas. Says Nordenskiold: 

"The exploring expeditions which, during the recent de- 
cades, have gone out from Sweden tow^ards the north, have 
long ago acquired a truly national importance through the 
lively interest that has been taken in them everywhere, be- 
yond, as well as within, the fatherland; through the consider- 
able sums of money that have been spent on them by the 
State, and above all, by private persons; through the practical 
school they have formed for more than thirty Swedish natur- 
alists; through the important scientific and geograi)hical re- 
sults they have yielded; and through the material for scientific 
research, which by them has been collected for the Swedish 
Koyal Museum, and which has made it, in respect of Arctic 
natural objects, the richest in the world. To this should be 
added discoveries and investigations which are, or [>romise in 
the future to become, of practical importance; for ex- 
ample, the meteorological and hydrographical work of the 
expeditions; their comprehensive inquiries regarding the seal 
and whale fisheries in the Polar seas; the pointing out of the 
previously unsuspected richness in fish of the coasts of Spitzber- 
gen; the discoveries on Bear Island and Spitzbergen of consid- 
erable strata of coal and phosphatic minerals which are likely 
to be of great economic importance to neighboring countries; 
and, above all, the success of the two last expeditions in reach- 
ing the mouths of the large Siberian rivers — the Obi and Yen- 
isei — navigable to the confines of China, whereby a problem 
in navigation, many centuries old, has at last been solved." 

And who would gainsay the testimony of this modest schol- 
ar who had himself examined geologically and mineralogic- 
ally more than one thousand miles of rock-section in Spitz- 
bergen alone? 

In 1868, w^hen off the north coast of Spitzbergen, near the 
Seven Sister Islands, endeavoring to reach the North Pole, 
Nordenskiold wrote: "On the way w^e had in several places 



370 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE. 

met ice that was black with stones, gravel, and earth, which 
would seem to indicate the existence of land still farther 
north." 

Again he says: 

"After my return from the voyage of 1876 — to Siberia — I 
came to the conclusion that on the ground of the experience 
thereby gained, and of the knowledge which, under the light 
of that experience, it was possible to obtain from old, espe- 
cially from Kussian explorations of the north coast of Asia, 
I was warranted in asserting that the open, navigable water, 
which, two years in succession had carried me across the Kara 
Sea — formerly of so bad repute — to the mouth of the Yenisei, 
extended, in all probability, as far as Bering's Strait, and that 
a circumnavigation of the Old World was thus within the 
bounds of possibility." 

At length, under the chief patronage of King Oscar II., 
Dr. Dickson and Mr. Sibiriakoff, wealthy merchants, he sailed 
from Tromsoe, Norway, on the voyage which was destined to 
make him world-renowned. 

The expedition vessel was the staunch German whaling- 
steamer 

"VEGA," 

of 357 tons gross burden. She had been equipped and manned 
by the state at an expense of less than |9,500, and carried a 
crew of seventeen men, besides the three officers. Other ex- 
penses were borne by individuals. She was accompanied as 
far as the Lena and Yenisei rivers by three depot ships which 
were despatched by Mr. Sibiriakoff at an expense additional 
to his own general share. 

This small Arctic fleet passed the Strait of Nova Zembla 
near the close of July, and anchored on the 30tli in Yugor 
Strait, the narrow channel separating the Island of Waigat 
from the northeast coast of Russia. Here intercourse was held 
with the Samoyed Eskimos, from whom goose and swan feath- 
ers, skins, furs, etc., were obtained in exchange for corn and 
salt. 

Proceeding eastward, the Kara Sea was found calm and 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 371 

comparatively free of ice. In three days the "Vega" reached 
Port Dickson, on Dickson Ishind, at the mouth of the Yenisei. 
From this point two of the transports returned. 

On the 10th of August the ''Vega" and the remaining pro- 
vision-ship left Port Dickson and passed between Taimur 
Island and the peninsula of the same name. Four days were 
sj)ent in examining the fauna and flora of the region, after 
which progress was made to Cape Chel-yus-kin, and that the 
northernmost point of the eastern continent, latitude 77° 37', 
was not rounded without great difficulty till on the 19th of 
August. The extremity of the cape was found to consist of 
slate-strata, crossed by great veins of quartz. 

The interior of the country consisted of gentle slopes, low 
plains of clay, some of which were bare, while others were 
covered with grasses, mosses, and lichens. The rocks con- 
sisted of vertical layers of slate without fossils, but were rich 
in pyrites. 

Of animation there were seen sandpipers, barnacle geese, 
gulls, kittiwakes, eider-ducks, a loon, a walrus, several seals, 
a bear, two shoals of the white whale, and traces of the rein- 
deer and lemming. 

The dredge yielded an abundance of the lower forms of life, 
and some algae. 

Of insects there were the spring-tail, a few flies, and a 
beetle. 

Having left the cape, the "Vega" was driven by favoring 
northwest breezes, through open water, in a southeasterly di- 
rection to the mouth of the Lena Eiver. Here the last depot 
ship, the "Lena," left the "Vega" and steamed up the stream 
whose name she bore, to Yakutsk, 800 miles distant. Being 
the first ocean-steamer to penetrate so far inland, she was 
greeted with great joy. 

Meanwhile, the "Vega" pushed toward the Liakoff Islands, 
but owing to thick ice and shallow water the effort to land 
was relinquished. 

Advancing farther eastward, Serdze Kamen, situated only 
100 miles short of Bering's Strait, was reached on the 28th 



372 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

of September. Here the "Vega" was firmly beset on this date 
and at once established herself in winter-quarters. But for 
the delay in endeavoring to reach the Liakoff Islands, she 
would doubtless have completed the voyage in the same 
season. 

The winter at Serd-ze Kamen passed uneventfully, but 
much information was derived concerning the Chook-chee Es- 
kimos, and in making scientific observations, for which purpose 
an observatory was erected on shore. Throughout the cold 
season the men were able to keep themselves Avarm in woolen 
jackets and woven jerseys. The sea-water was found to vary 
in a single day from 28° to 32°. 

The natives were found to divide themselves naturally into 
two classes: the coast and inland Chook-chees, the former de- 
pending upon the dog as their most faithful ally, the latter 
upon the reindeer. In their dealings with the ship's company 
they were found to be strictly honest, not even disturbing the 
provisions placed on shore. It was learned that thej^ carried 
on trade with the Alaskans. 

At length, freed from the ice on the 18th of June, 1879, the 
"Vega" two days later passed East Cape on her way down 
Bering's Strait, and cast anchor in the Bay of San Lorenzo, 
an inlet of an island inhabited by a mixed population of Alas- 
kans, Chook-chees, and Samoyeds. 

From the 22d to the 26th of July, the "Vega" remained at 
Port Clarence, Alaska. 

Having arrived at Yokohama on the 2d of August, she then 
proceeded via the Suez Canal to Naples. This city was reached 
February 14, 1880. From this date till their joyous entry into 
the Bay of Stockholm, on the 24th of April, the returning 
explorers were feted and welcomed at every point where 
anchor was cast, as never before men had been honored. The 
ovations were expressive of a truly international enthusiasm 
over the accomplishment of one of the grandest undertakings 
of humanity. 

That the chief patrons of the expedition, viz., the generous 
and public-spirited King of Sweden and Norway, Oscar II., 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 



373 



Dr. Dickson, and Mr. Sibiriakoff, deserve unstinted praise for 
their liberality of mind, and heart, and purse an admiring world 
will ever record. 

But that the modest and persevering geologist and miner- 
alogist. Baron Adolf E. Nordenskiold and his faithful com- 
panions merit a world's profoundest gratitude no one will deny. 




THE BEST f ABT OF A SLEDGE JOnRKEY. 



374 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



CHAPTEK XXXIX. 

DE LONG'S GALLANT STRUGGLE. 

In the pages of history there is no record more noble and 
inspiring than that of George Washington De Long. 

Beared of strict, yet kind and solicitous Huguenot parents, 
he early imbibed the frugality, energy, and Christian fervor of 
those who begat him. His strong will and passion to overcome 
difficulties urged him irresistibly onward in the pursuit of any- 
thing that he undertook. 

Keturning from the search of the "Polaris" in 1873, when, 
as we have already seen, he commanded the "Juniata," he ap- 
pears to have had his heart set as firml}^ on the polar problem 
as had been that of the lamented Hall. Acting upon the sug- 
gestion of Mr. Grinnell he at once wrote to Mr. James Gordon 
Bennett, then in Paris, and solicited financial "backing." The 
reply was both courteous and encouraging. 

It was, however, the 8th of July, 1879, before Mr. Bennett's 
liberality had made all necessary arrangements and the expe- 
dition, in command of Lieutenant-Commander DeLong, 
steamed away from San Francisco and headed toward Bering 
Strait. 

The vessel selected for this voyage was the "Pandora," 
formerly owned by Sir Allen Young, who had accompanied 
McClintock in his search for Franklin in 1857-9. In her, this 
eminent English navigator had made, in 1875, an Arctic voyage 
through Lancaster Sound and Barrow's Strait to Peel Sound. 
After her purchase by Mr. Bennett in 1878, she was rechris- 
tened the 

"JEANNETTE" 

and refitted for Arctic service. 

Captain DeLong's chief assistants were: Lieutenant C. W. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 375 

Chipp, the companion of his voyage on the "Juniata," and now 
his executive officer; George W. Melville, U. S. N., chief engin- 
eer; Dr. James M. Ambler, U. S. N.; Mr. Jerome J. Collins, 
meteorologist; Mr. II. L. Newcomb, naturalist, and Mr. William 
Dunbar, ice pilot. The ice quartermaster was Mr. Nindemann, 
one of those who had accompanied Captain Tyson on his mar- 
velous drift on the ice-floe after their separation from the 
"Polaris," and was, therefore, one of those for whom Captain 
DeLong had gone in search in 1873. 

Strange, indeed, that ten years later it should be Ninde- 
mann's fortune to search for DeLong, as will appear hereafter. 

It is also of interest to remark that a friend of the expedi- 
tion sent to Captain DeLong a likeness of Captain Hall and a 
bit of the "Polaris" flag, to be carried to the North Pole. 

Provisioned for three years, the "Jeannette" steamed from 
San Francisco to St, Michael's, Alaska, whence, taking on 
board forty fine dogs, sledges, a large quantity of fur garments, 
other Arctic necessaries, and two native assistants, the Alexey 
and Aneguin of our narrative, she proceeded to St. Lawrence 
Bay, on the Asiatic side. 

Upon leaving the bay on the evening of August 27th, De- 
Long sent the following despatch to the Honorable Secretary 
of the Navy: "Arrived 25th; leave for Serdze Kamen to-night. 
All well. Natives report Nordenskiold passed south three 
months ago, stopping here one day, having wintered at Kol- 
yu-chin Ba}^ Mentioned one officer, a Russian, who spoke the 
native language, as named 'Charpish,' possibly Nordquist, of 
the Russian navy, accompanying Nordenskiold, Avho said the 
ship was going home. Leave here to verify account along the 
coast. Hope to reach Wrangell Land this season." 

Rounding East Cape twenty hours later, Serdze Kamen was 
reached at 5 p. m. of the 29th. Here papers, and a letter ad- 
dressed to the Secretary of the Navy, were deposited. Tlies(% 
by means of the whaling-vessels which annually visit these 
waters, reached their destination thirteen months later. Here, 
too, DeLong observed the natives to be as hospitable as they 
Were "stalwart and handsome." Some of the men also saw 



376 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

the winter-quarters of the "Vega," which had left there about 
a month previous. 

Having reached Kol-^^u-chin Bay on the 1st, the "Jeannette" 
headed northwestward toward Herald Island and Wrangell 
Land. The former, we have noted in previous pages, had been 
discovered, and the latter rediscovered, by Captain Kellett, 
in the brig "Herald," in 1849. On this day, too, was sighted 
Kolyuchin, or Burney Island, on which Wrangell had landed 
in 1823. 

On the next day, in about latitude 70° 52' north, longitude 
174° west, the American whaler "Sea Breeze," Captain Barnes, 
was seen. She was again sighted several times on the 3d. 

Herald Island came into view on the 4th, and toward this 
the "Jeannette," having now fairly entered the pack, endeav- 
ored to push her way. For there was DeLong "hoping and 
praying to be able to get the ship to make winter-quarters." 

Sunday, September 7th, was "a day of complete rest in 
every respect." The commander, at 10 a. m., mustered the 
crew, read the Articles of War, and held divine service. At 
12 m. got soundings in forty fathoms of blue mud. 

As the vessel drifted almost imperceptibly in the ice, the 
dogs were turned loose during the day-time for exercise. At 
night bear-traps w^ere also set, and although bear tracks were 
seen about them, none of the creatures were caught. Some 
of the dogs becoming entrapped and injured instead, the traps 
were taken in. 

On the 13th, Engineer Melville, Ice Pilot Dunbar, and 
Alexey, with a sledge and dogs, attempted to reach Herald 
Island, while Captain DeLong and Dr. Ambler sought for 
suitable ice from which to melt water for the ship's use, the 
sea-ice being salt and unserviceable, except after all too ex- 
pensive distillation. Since icebergs, those mere fragments of 
fresh water-producing glaciers and extensive ice mantles of 
northern land elevations are not to be found in the Bering 
Strait region, the problem was a vital one to them. Finally, a 
large lump of ice on end on a floe was secured, and this, tested 
by means of nitrate of silver, showing the presence of but from 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 377 

three to five grains of chlorine to a gallon of Avater, a tolerable 
supply was obtained. 

On the next da}^ the party sent toward Herald Island 
returned, having been stopped by open water extending about 
five miles from shore. The coast was high and rocky, with 
great ridges running down a nearly perpendicular face. No 
driftwood was seen, but many bear tracks and a raven were 
observed. A seal shot by Alexey was brought to the ship. 

At noon on the next day the "Jeannette's" position was 71° 
46' north, 175° 36' west, from which it appeared that she had 
been drifting northwest with the ice for the preceding six 
days at a rate of two and a half miles a day. At the same time, 
the young seal, having been well cooked, was eaten and unan- 
imously pronounced equal to rabbit. 

A few days later the bear-traps were again set, with the 
entrails of the seal, and a large male bear was caught. He 
was accompanied by a female bear who would not desert him, 
but, by running to and from him, coaxed him on in his efforts 
to drag the trap forward, and which he did do for about three 
and a half miles. When overtaken b^^ the men both bears 
rose on their hind legs and howled dolefully till the Winches- 
ters and the Remingtons of Ohipp, Dunbar, Melville, and De- 
Long brought them down. The male weighed 580 pounds, 
the female 422 pounds. Both were photographed by Mr. Col- 
lins. Mr. Newcomb also added several ivory gulls to his 
natural historj^ collection. 

Drifting northward at from three and a half to five miles a 
day, the 24th of September found the "Jeannette" quite out of 
sight of Herald Island, in the center of a large floe strong- 
enough to prevent the nipping of the ship. Says DeLong: "A 
mile from the ship in any direction new ice six inches thick 
is piled up in tables from six to twenty feet in height by the 
coming together of floes. One day we find large spaces of 
water, the next day we find the spaces narrowing, and the 
third da}^ the spaces are closed and slabs of new ice six inches 
thick are pil^d up on end like a confused fence, six, twelve, and 
eighteen feet high." 



378 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Of life, ail occasional gull and the products of the dredge 
were all that could be seen. On the 28th, however, Newcomb 
and Alexey shot two female walruses, each weighing 1,000 
l)ouiids; one was heav}^ with her young, the foetus and skin 
being saved as natural history specimens. The flesh afforded 
much dog food. 

October opened with a terrific gale of wind and snow. At 
noon on the 3d, soundings gave a depth of twenty-four and a 
half fathoms, with blue mud and dark gravel. The dredge 
brought up some delicate white coral — a circumstance that 
bespoke either a natural growth or a warm current from the 
south. On the same day Herald Island reappeared in the 
southwest, the "Jeannette^' having drifted southward on the 
third side of the triangle represented on the track chart, and at 
a speed of ten miles a day for three days. In the afternoon of 
this day Mr. Newcomb, Aneguin and Alexey killed another 
female bear weighing about 500 pounds, thus adding greatly 
to the ship's larder. 

On the 6th the indefatigable Newcomb shot twenty-eight 
ducks, and on the next day a "Koss's gull" — a most valuable 
prize and rare beyond calculation, there being but one — at the 
Museum in Mainz — in the world. 

On the ITtli Nindemann and Aneguin each added a seal, 
making seven hanging in the rigging, and insuring fresh meat 
for as many dinners. On the following day Ah Sam, the cook, 
and a most valuable man otherwise, "asked for a gun," says 
DeLong, " ^to go shoot a seal.' " * * * "lu about an hour 
he returned, the most astonished and startled Chinaman out 
of China. At his first shot the gun had burst, tearing up the 
barrel, fortunately near the muzzle, so that he received no 
harm; but his mental demoralization was complete. The 
probability is he let the muzzle slip in the snow at some time, 
and the end of the bore got choked; hence the bursting." 

On the 28th Lieutenant Danenhower found the ship's posi- 
tion to be in latitude 71° 57' north, longitude 177° 51' west. 
Land appeared in the south-southwest, w^hich DeLong believed 
to be that seen by Captain Long in 1867 (Wrangell Land.) Com- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 379 

mander DeLong no longer believed it to be a continent, but 
either an island or an archipelago. 

Oh the 29th "Dandy," or "Bingo," escaped from his harness 
when in the team, much to t]ie disgust of the other dogs, who 
gave pursuit. "Bom bye, other dogs him plenty^ whip" (for 
his desertion) said the driver, Alexe^^ Three or four hours 
later, after the return of the team, they caught Bingo at a 
safe distance from the vessel and chewed him so badly that 
he died within ten minutes after being carried on board. 

Throughout October several seals and walruses were se- 
cured, and "walrus sausage" was served as a new and "rare 
good thing." Both DeLong and Chipp agreed that bear and 
seal meat well cooked was not to be despised. Certainly, with 
an abundance of fuel, this may be accomplished. 

On November 11th DeLong records: "A day of great anx- 
ietj. * * * The grinding and crushing flow of ice to the 
westward had again commenced, and the jamming of large 
pieces from time to time, splintering our floe, caused breaks 
and upheavals to within about seventy-five feet of the ship. 

"The ship groaned and creaked at every pressure until I 
thought the next would break her adrift. The pressure was 
tremendous, and the noise was not calculated to calm one's 
mind. I know of no sound on shore than can be compared to 
it. A rumble, a shriek, a groan and a crash of a falling house 
all combined might serve to convey an idea of the noise with 
w^hich this motion of ice-floes is accompanied. Great masses, 
from fifteen to twenty-five feet in height when up-ended, are 
sliding along at various angles of elevation and jam, and be- 
tween and among them are large and confused masses of 
debris, like a marble yard adrift." On the 30th he writes: 
"I take leave of the month of November without the slightest 
regret. It has been a month of gales, ice-pressures and discom- 
forts, mental and physical. * * * j gay good-by to Novem- 
ber, and invoke God's blessing on our ship and ourselves." 

In December the general health of all was excellent. Each 
day the men exercised without the ship for two hours. The 
dogs, in sleeping on the snow, frequently became frozen fast 



380 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

and had to be dug loose. Bear and fox tracks were frequently 
discovered and a heap of codfish bones was picked up two miles 
from the ship. They were probably the remains of a fiah caught 
either by a bear or a seal. A distiller, which consumed two 
pounds of coal for every gallon of water, was also made and 
used, and yielded forty gallons of water each day. A grand 
Christmas dinner brought to a close the leading events of the 
gloomy month. 

The New Year, however, came in with much cheer. The 
ship's bell was rung rapidly and the crew, assembling on deck, 
gave "three cheers for the 'Jeannette.' " After a capital dinner 
at 3 p. m., all assembled at 8:30 in the deck-house and enjoyed 
an entertainment. DeLong sa^^s: "Entering, we found a nice 
little stage erected with drop-curtains, foot-lights, etc., and 
tastily decorated with flags. The performance commenced 
with a minstrel variety, jokes and conundrums sandwiching 
in with the songs. One conundrum was excellent (pointing to 
one of the stanchions of the deck-house): 'Why is that 
stanchion like Mr. James Gordon Bennett? Because it sup- 
ports the house.' Sweetman's songs were very good, and 
Kuehne's violin solo was fine indeed, especially when one takes 
into consideration the fact that a seaman's life does not serve 
to render the fingers supple and delicate. Mr. Cole gave us a 
jig with all the gravity of a judge. One of the features of the 
evening was a prologue, composed by Mr. Collins, in w hich each 
one of the crew was made the subject of a rhyme in turn. Alexey 
and Aneguin gave us native dances, and the latter an imitation 
of a song sung by our Chinamen. The Chinamen gave us their 
native song, and a sham fight with knives and a pole, winding 
up by imitating with much contempt Alexey's and Aneguin's 
manner of singing and dancing." 

January, however, passed heavily away, with much ice- 
movement, causing the leaking of the ship and necessitating 
the working of the pumps. Gigantic ice-blocks pitched and 
rolled as though under control of magic. The "Jeannette" was 
in an amphitheater of ice about five-eighths of a mile in diam- 
eter and this circle was gradually decreasing in size, as huge 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 381 

masses of whiteness approached the vessel in all directions, so 
that had she been two hundred yards in any other position she 
must have been instantly destroyed. This circle gradually 
contracted to within a few hundred feet of the ship and then 
stopped — "stopping," as Melville adds, "our prayers," also. 
Messrs. Dunbar and Sweetman were in ill health, while Lieu- 
tenant Danenhower suffered constantly from inflammation of 
the left eye, making necessary a painful operation by Dr. 
Ambler, concerning which the Captain says: "I hardly know 
which to admire the most, the skill and celerity of the surgeou, 
or the nerve and endurance of Danenhower." On the 26th the 
sun returned, after an absence of seventy-one days. January 
ended and February began, with the pumps going steadily. 
On the first of the new month a white Arctic fox was chased 
onto the gang-plank by the dogs. It was shot by Alexey. In 
its stomach was found nothing but lemmings' tails. Imme- 
diately afterward Lieutenant Ohipp killed a bear weighing 
about 400 pounds. The stomach contained nothing Avhatever. 
On the next day another of these creatures attempted to get 
on board the vessel, but was shot by Mr. Dunbar. It weighed 
900 pounds and measured eight feet one inch in length. Noth- 
ing save a few slate-like stones was found in its stomach. 

WASHINGTON'S BIRTHDAY 

falling on Sunday, its celebration was held on the 23d. At 
sunrise the "Jeannette" was dressed with American ensigns 
at the mast-head and flag-staff and the Union Jack forward. 

On the last day of February DeLong wrote: "The men are 
bright and cheerful, surveying with much complacency and 
evident gratification the pumping of the ship by steam instead 
of hand power. Our Chinese cook and steward are as impas- 
sable and impenetrable in this cold weather as if we were 
enjoying a tropical spring." Living happily by themselves in 
the cook-house they passed the time singing songs or playing 
cards, with no concern for either past or future. "Our two 
natives, Alexey and Aneguin, thrive wonderfully well. Occa- 
sionally they ^think plenty' about St. Michael's, being a little 
"35 



382 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

homesick, but generally they are bright and happy. * * * 
They are naturally and intuitively the most polite men I have 
met outside of cultivated society. * * * Upon meeting an 
officer first in the morning, a touch of the cap and a good-morn- 
ing are immediately tendered. If you do or say anything for 
them that they see or hear, ^Thank you' is immediately your 
repl}^ If you thank them, 'You are welcome' is ready. And 
all this in a manly, straightforward way, without any cringing 
or eye serving." 

On March 3d some shells and a piece of driftwood resemb- 
ling birch were brought in. In December a piece of wood and 
a print of a moccasin or sealskin boot on a single piece of ice 
had also been seen at some distance from the ship. They had 
undoubtedly come from some Siberian River. 

The advance of March brought the appearance of more 
game. On the 12th the track of a wolf was seen. Two days 
later three species of drift-wood and some stones and sponges 
were found. The shells had probably been dug up from the 
bottom of the sea and left on the ice. On the 16th Alexey and 
Aneguin shot a she-bear and on the 20th Alexey shot an im- 
mense walrus, so large that four men and thirty dogs could 
not drag him over the ice. Nindemann estimated his weight 
at 2,800 pounds. 

Laud (WrangelFs) was seen in the southwest several times 
during the month. 

The pumps were kept continually at work. Ice disturb- 
ances and resulting pressure on the ship kept all in a state of 
anxiet}^ Great, confused masses of ice thirtj^ or forty feet 
high were piled up about the vessel. 

It was observed that the ice sank deeper in winter than in 
summer, for then, being like flint in hardness and closeness, it 
possessed greater density, causing it to sink lower than in iVu- 
gust or September, when it was honey-combed and softened by 
the sun* 

The position of the ship on the last day of the month was 
72° 36' north, by 178° 7' west — almost the same as on Novem- 
ber 30th. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 383 

On the 1st of April the dogs and men killed a fine large 
bear weighing 675 pounds. The fight was a lively one, about 
twenty dogs surrounding and worrying the creature, w^hile a 
half dozen would bite it and make the fur fly. 

On the 9th a raven, the first bird of the season, suddenly 
appeared and as quickly vanished. On the 15th, for breakfast, 
the tables were served with bear meat sausage balls minced 
with pork and powdered herbs. On this day two snow-bunt- 
ings alighted near the ship. 

At this time the doge were observed to be "as fat as dump- 
lings and as lazy as human beings in the tropics." 

The health of the men was excellent. The scale of food 
containing much fresh bread, wdth canned vegetables, milk, 
butter, sixty pounds of fresh potatoes every week, and much 
lime juice, contributed largely to this. 

ON SUNDAYS 

ship inspection and divine services were regularly followed by 
a dinner Avhich all held in pleasant anticipation. The bill of 
fare for the winter consisted of soup, roast seal or roast bear 
with cranberry sauce, macaroni, potatoes, pickles, bread, pud- 
ding, or "duff," coffee and chocolate, and a glass either of ale, 
porter or sherry. 

On the 18th of April the "Jeannette" was in latitude 72° 45' 
46"north, longitude 178° 16' west. On the next day Iversen 
found on the ice, a mile and a half from the ship, seven pieces 
of wood, a piece of birch bark, a small leaf, and a bunch of 
vegetable matter. On the 20th a w^alrus was cut open and 
therein was found a j^art of a young seal, from which it would 
appear that the animal is omnivorous. In the course of the 
remainder of the month a raven, a dull-colored bird, and a 
young bear were seen. A wind-mill having been rigged up 
on the ship, it assisted in pumping. During the month the 
ship had drifted, to and fro, 84.2 miles; in a straight line, 46 
miles northwest. On the last day a flock of about twenty 
eider ducks were observed flying westward. 

On the 8th of May Captain DeLong thus writes: "The 
weather is gloomy, depressing, and disagreeable. Velocities 



384 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POI^B; 

ranging from ten to twenty-three miles drive the snow from 
the face of the floe in clouds. * * * Here and there along- 
side the ship a little white lump indicates that there is a dog 
beneath it, and even the regular and irregular dog fights are 
discontinued until the weather gets clearer and friend can be 
distinguished from foe. * * * As if by concerted plan one 
and two will spring on three, roll him over and seemingly tear 
him in pieces. Fortunately the wool is so long and thick that 
an attacidng dog gets his mouth full of hair before his front 
teeth reach the flesh. * * * The vulnerable places are the 
ears and the bell}^ I have seen an attacked dog run, and, 
lying on his stomach, shove his head into a snow bank with 
impunity while his foes were choking over the hair they tore 
out of his back. 

a* * * Socldenly dog three will turn on dog two and 
be promptly aided by dog one, his previous foe. By this time 
the whole pack has gathered as if by magic, and a free and in- 
discriminate fight occurs. 

"They divide up into little gangs of three or four, and in 
these friendly cliques they also fight. * * * It is a com- 
mon occurrence to see a dog on the blaQk-list, a quarter of a 
mile from the ship, all alone and afraid to come in until his 
time is up. He then approaches fawningly, wagging his tail 
deprecatingly to become reconciled, and is either welcomed by 
wagging tails or snarling teeth, in which latter case he retires 
for another spell. * * * They make no demonstration at 
any dog singly, or a team, going away, except the most doleful 
howling, and should he or they venture to return, the remainder 
of the pack lie in wait for the one or more returning. If a 
team comes in, a rough and tumble fight ensues and requires 
two or three men to stop it. As soon as the harness is off they 
are all smooth and quiet again, the cliques reassembling and 
moving off to their usual haunts. * * * 

"Their cunning is extraordinary. Going out the other night 
at twelve for 

METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS, 

about a dozeri of them came around me in great excitement 





Etah Eskimos : Nook-tah and My-ouk. View at Cape York— In- 
verted Iceberg in the Distance. 
(See Chapters XXVllI., XXXiV. and XLIl.) 



6ift, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 385 

about something or other. Looking around for a cause, I ob- 
served a good-sized dog head first in a barrel at an angle, with 
only his tail and flanks sticking out. He had gone in for some 
walrus meat at the bottom, and no dog had driven him out, 
because his stern view was not recognizable as belonging to a 
bully or not. * * * i drove him out, when half the gang 
recognized him as no great fighter, pitched into him, while the 
other half fought among themselves for the entry into the bar- 
rel. For fear of catching a Tartar the^^ had waited for some 
one to solve the conundrum, 'Who is in the barrel?' " 

As the "Jeannette" continued to drift during the month of 
May, numerous flocks of birds and several bears were seen, one 
of the bears weighing nearly 800 pounds. 

The events of June were few and followed wearily in suc- 
cession. One of the seamen showed signs of insanity; rain fell 
for a few moments on the 6th and was esteemed "a luxury;'* 
on the last day the first punishment of the cruise was inflicted, 
one of the seamen being compelled to assume "watch and 
watch for twenty-four hours in the fire-room, for profane and 
abusive language to a ship-mate." On this day the vessel, 
having drifted to the southeast — backwards — was in latitude 
72° 19' 41" north, longitude 178° 27' 30" east. About forty 
seals and five Eoss's gulls were secured during the month. 
They now had seven of the latter. 

On the 3d of July the last of the bear meat, "that good and 
solid food," was eaten. The record of Sunday, July 4th, was 
really of Monday, July 5th, as the "Jeannette" had crossed the 
180th meridian. It being the first Sunday in the month, the 
Articles of War and general muster preceded ship inspection 
and divine service. On the next day the 

ANNIVERSARY OP AMERICAN INDEPENDENCE 

was celebrated by dressing the ship with ensigns at the mast 
head and signals in a rain-bow. The latitude then was 73° 20' 
7" north, the longitude being unattainable owing to thick fog 
and mist. When hauled down the flags were covered with 
rime and frost. 



386 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Past the middle of the month De Loug almost despairingly 
writes: "See-saw, see-saw northwest with a southeast wind, 
and then southeast with a northwest wind, and the same result 
with any other two succeeding winds. * * * a bear in a 
trap, a bird in a cage, a ship in the ice, are alike held in bondage 
sharp and galling. * * * job is recorded to have had 
many trials and tribulations which he bore with wonderful pa- 
tience; but so far as is known he was never caught in pack-ice 
and drifted south and w^est with west winds." And a few days 
later: "Seal at dinner, with macaroni, tomatoes, etc., etc., as 
per bill of fare, and a glass of sherry with our corn starch pud- 
ding. As far as food goes, we are in luxury." 

On the same day was killed their first ook-sook (Pho-ca bar- 
ba-ta, or bearded seal). She was eight feet long. Her flesh 
was used for dog food and the thick skin for boot soles. 

The 29th was rendered memorable b}^ their again arriving 
at the 180th meridian, which line was previously crossed on the 
5th of May. 

On August 2d their location was latitude 73° 20', longitude 
178° 36' west, a change of over twenty-three and a half miles, 
or nearly seven miles a day, to the northeast. 

By the gradual melting of the snow and ice, shells, pieces of 
sponge and bits of wood were revealed. 

On the 3d, between 5 and 8 o'clock p. m., a strong odor of 
burning brush-wood filled the air and was noticed by every one 
save DeLong, who was suffering at the time of 'a severe cold in 
the head. A decided haze was also apparent from G to 10 p. m. 
On the 13th there was a rainbow at 10 p. m. and sunset oc- 
curred twenty minutes later. On this day the "Jeannette" 
began again to drift northwest. On the 18th a sounding gave 
a depth of 44 fathoms, with mud, gravel, and fine white sand. 
On the next day Mr. Dunbar, while on the ice with Alexey, was 
surprised by "the biggest bear he had ever seen — 

A REGULAR BUSTER!" 

Dunbar crouched down, whereupon Alexey fired and dropped 
the monster! Bruin, however, again spx'ang to his feet and 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 387 

made off pumpiug blood through a hole in his side as he ran. 
Fortunately, Nindemann and Bartlett met and despatched the 
wounded animal, which was found to be only a small one 
after all, showing that Mr. Dunbar had been very greatly sur- 
prised indeed. 

Four days later, when Commander DeLong was celebrating 
his thirty-sixth birthday by a quiet scull in his boat through 
a narrow lane of water about 500 yards from the ship, he 
chanced to look over his shoulder, and there, to his astonish- 
ment, he observed a bear not 100 feet distant. To run was 
impossible — for alternations of ice and water cut off quick 
retreat to the ship. Looking the bear out of countenance w^as 
romantic, but impracticable — for he soon recovered his aston- 
ishment and advanced upon DeLong, who then yelled, "On 
board ship there! a bear! a bear!" But no answer came. 
Bruin halted, but so close had he approached that the puzzled 
commander could distinctly see where the short hair ended at 
the edge of his bearship's "beautiful black nose." Again De 
Long called aloud, "On board ship there!" and somebody re- 
plied, "Hal-loa!" "A bear! a bear!" yelled De Long, and at 
the same time elevated an oar to fend off Bruin's attack should 
he advance farther. At that instant a string of dogs and men 
rushed round the stern of the vessel, and the bear, gazing at 
them a moment, took the hint and made off, leaving De Long 
to reflect upon a good lesson, "Never to go away from the ship 
without a rifle." 

In the afternoon of the 26th another bear was killed and 
scarcely was it buried in the snow and ice than a mother bear 
and two nearly grown cubs appeared. The dogs being fed on 
the port bow were unmindful of their approach. Silence 
reigned. Mrs. Bruin led the van. Slowly and deliberatel}', 
head to the wind, neck stretched out like that of a cow, nose 
describing graceful curves at each step, she fell quietly into 
the water lanes and swam across, looking back to encourage 
her offspring to follow. At signal ten rifles were fired. Down 
went the big bear, one of the cubs jerking and shaking its 
foot, indicating that it had been struck. The young ones 



388 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

closed in on the mother, and the firing continued until the 
smoke hid them. Away went the dogs and the men in pursuit, 
following the blood-stained tracks. The mother bear, though 
severely hurt, pushed her young before her, nosing them into 
the water before leaving the ice herself, and thus covered their 
retreat until the pursuers were obliged to abandon the chase 
by reason of the too numerous leads. 

When in pursuit of these bears Lieutenant De Long and 
Dr. Ambler came to a locality covered with the "crimson-col- 
ored snow" for quite a space. The microscope revealed in it 
a pink-colored marine algae, probably a species of protococcus. 

On August 30th Jupiter and Aldebaran were in plain view. 
This was the first appearance of any of the stars since in the 
spring, and on the next da^^, as if to give warning of the near 
approach of winter, an aurora appeared as a faint tremulous 
arch. 

On the 1st of September the vessel righted herself once 
more to an even keel, and numerous flocks of birds (principally 
phalatropes) passed to the southwest as. if coming from some 
land to the northeast. The 5th was the first anniversary of 
the entrance of the ship into the ice-pack, and she was but 
150 miles northwestward of that point. On the 9th Mr. Dun- 
bar brought to the ship a quantity of "crimson snow." On 
the 14th De Long writes: "At 8 p. m. the moon was rising on 
the southern horizon, and very much distorted by refraction. 
It seemed of immense size four days before full moon, and re- 
minded one of a large city burning. Auroral flashes shot up 
from the eastern horizon toward the zenith, ^nd, with the many 
stars visible, made a beautiful scene. At midnight, on going- 
out to make the meteorological observation, I was considerably 
startled. South-southeast of the ship, right ahead, the sky at 
the horizon was lighted up as by a coming daylight, the clear, 
bright light being very marked. I knew, of course, it must be 
an auroral display, but while I looked, a brilliant green, and 
then a brilliant red color spread all over it, very much as dif- 
ferent colored lights are made to shine on a stage in spectacu- 
lar pieces. As a scenic effect it was grand indeed. The 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 389 

changes were vivid and instantaneous, and had we been in open 
water I should have declared that the occurrence was due 
to signal lights from a ship." 

On the 28th the hoodlum dog ; Prince, Tom, and Jim brought 
to bay a large bear, which was shot by Mr. Dunbar. It weighed 
before being dressed 9434 pounds. 

October passed away very uneventfully, the capture of a 
single fat white fox in a trap on the 26th being about the onl}^ 
new thing to occur. 

On the 1st of November the winter routine was again be- 
gun. On the 6th the sun rose at 11:30, having about two of his 
diameters above the horizon at noon, and set a half hour later, 
to be absent — for that latitude — about ninety days. Three 
days later, however, the sun again seemed to rise at noon, a 
portion of his disc being' visible from 11 a. m. to 1 p. m. In 
reality he was 52' below the horizon at noon and his reappear- 
ance was of course due to extraordinary refraction. This was 
•repeated on the next day, the sun seeming to be well above the 
horizon at noon. 

On the 14th Nindemann got a seal in which was a beautiful 
embryo in many respects resembling a puppy, except for the 
flippers. 

The month was one of great monoton}' . With the exception 
of the small party that had gone ashore at Kol-,yu-chin Ba^^, 
none had been on land for nearly fifteen months. They had, as 
De Long thought, become 

RECEIVERS OF MAGNETISM 

without proper earths in which to allow it to escape. Their 
rest became broken and unnatural, those turning in at 10 
p. m. often lying awake till 3 a. m. De Long himself being on 
watch till midnight, never turned in till 1 o'clock, and rarely 
got to sleep till 3:30 a. m. 

Observation on the last day of November showed the vessel 
to be in latitude 74°, longitude 178° 15' east, after drifting rap- 
idly to the northwest twenty-two miles in the last two days. 

On the 2d of December their monotonous life was relieved 



390 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

by the killing of a bear 8 feet 3-^- inches in length and weighing 
800 pounds. 

Observation on the 11th showed that the vessel had again 
drifted considerably to the southeast. At intervals during the 
day loud reports like the discharge of heavy guns were heard, 
and the ship was much jarred by them. They were probably 
caused by the splitting of heavy ice contracting with the in- 
tense cold. 

On the 22d, although the sun had reached its greatest south- 
ern declination and had therefore begun to return, there was 
not noticeable any difference in the amount of twilight. 

Christmas Eve and the last day of the year 1880 were cele- 
brated with minstrel entertainments. On Christmas Day a 
fine dinner was served and all were for the time being made 
cheerful. The entertainment given on the last day of the year 
closed by all singing the 

"STAR SPANGLED BANNER" 

and a short address b}' the commander, in which he, among 
other things, stated that during the past sixteen months they 
had drifted 1,300 miles, although they were only 220 miles 
-northwest of where they were when first beset; that they had 
pumped a leaking ship for a year and kept her habitable; that 
the}^ then faced the future with a firm hope of doing something 
worthy of themselves, of James Gordon Bennett and of the 
flag that floated above them and that, with the blessing of God, 
they would return to their homes with pardonable pride. 

On his usual watch Captain De Long was kept company on 
New Year's Eve by Melville and Dunbar. At midnight, after 
the men had sung a verse and the chorus from 

"MARCHING THROUGH GEORGIA," 

eight bells for the old year were struck, three cheers for the 
ship given, and eight bells more were struck for the new 3^ear. 
Thus was ushered in on board the United States steamer 
"Jeannette" the year 1881, in latitude 73° 48' north, longitude 
177° 32' east. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 391 

On the 5tb of February the suu reappeared at noon, in lati- 
tude 74° 49' north, longitude 171° 49' east. 

It should be noted here that the dogs, having been well fed 
and housed, had passed through two Arctic winters in good 
condition. Only a few had died from the effects of sharp pieces 
of bones cutting through the intestines. One had died in the 
course of the tirst winter from having swallowed a large wad of 
oakum. 

On the 10th of February the little Russian dog passed about 
eight feet of tapeworm, which was dul}^ bottled as a natural 
history specimen. 

On the 18th a small bear was killed by the dogs. 

WASHINGTON'S BIRTHDAY 

was again celebrated north of the Arctic Circle by placing the 
ensigns upon the mast head and flag-staff, and the Jack 
forward. 

On March 6th a she-bear was killed after a hard fight. In 
the melee "Plug-ugly" was killed by a glancing rifle bullet; 
Prince got off with bad cuts in his back and fore-shoulder; 
Tom, with a long gash on his rump; Wolf, one of the three 
"hood-lums," with a long cut from rump to stomach; Bingo, 
with two side gashes clear to the intestines; one of Alexey's 
dogs, with a claw gash in his throat; Snoozer, with a cut from 
cheek to mouth; Smike, with two bad gashes, etc. 

About this time the Chinamen amused themselves flying 
kites made in shape like birds, flies, etc. 

On the 20th the sun crossed the line coming north and 
showed the ship's latitude to be 75° 17' north. Eight days 
later the position of the "Jeannette" was 350 miles northwest 
of Herald Island. 

Nearlj^ a month later, on the 19th of April, the Chinamen 
and two dogs followed a bear until, finally, the men gave up 
the pursuit. Not until nearly a week later did the dogs re- 
turn, exhausted from their long absence. 

On the 27th some diatoms of the order cos-cin-o-dis-cus were 
obtained, and being evidently of river origin, the ship's posi- 



392 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

tion was supposed to be within the area of the deposit from the 
Ko-ly-ma. 

On the 4th of May a flock of ten wild geese and some ducks 
were seen flying west. On the next day a bear weighing 790 
pounds was killed. Again, on the 14th, was a flock of dncks 
seen flying west. And, two days later, in the same direction, 
was discovered 

LAND. 

It w^as first seen by Mr. Dunbar, when aloft. The ship was 
then in latitude 76° 43' 20" north, longitude 161° 53' 45" east— 
the first seen since March 24, 1880. Four days later appear- 
ances of another island a little farther west were noted, and 
four days still later a separate island was made out. The 
progress of the vessel thus far during the new year was satis- 
factory, namely, 310 miles northwest. 

The nearer, more eastern and first-discovered land was 
named Jeannette Island; the other, Henrietta Island, in honor 
of Mr. Bennett's mother. 

On the last day of May Captain De Long despatched Mr. 
Melville, with Messrs. Dunbar, Nindemann, Ericksen, Bartlett, 
and Sharvell, to the latter, which was computed to be about 
twelve miles distant. "My anxiety," says De Long, "will be 
endless and unremitting until I get all hands under my wings 
again; and I pray God so to aid them and guide us that no mis- 
hap may occur." 

On the next day it was discovered by the doctor that at 
least six of the men were suffering from the effects of lead- 
poisoning, engendered probably by the long-continued use of 
canned tomatoes, which showed traces of the poison, the acid 
of the fruit having worked chemically upon the solder of the 
cans. 

On June 5th Melville's party returned. They landed on 
the island on Thursday, June 2d (June 3d, true time), hoisted 
the silk flag, and took possession of it in the name of 

THE GREAT JEHOVAH AND THE UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. 

Upon it they erected a cairn in which was deposited a record 
which had been sent with them by Captain De Long. The 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 393 

island was found to be a desolate rock, upon which rests a 
snow-cap, which feeds several discharging glaciers on its east 
face, Dovekies, or black guillemots, nesting on the precipitous 
rocks, were the only signs of game seen. • Some moss, grass, and 
a handful of rock were brought back. The position of this 
island was fixed at latitude 77° 8' north, longitude 157° 43' 
east; that of Jeannette Island, latitude 76° 47' north, longitude 
158° 56' east, "Thank God," writes De Long, "we have at least 
landed upon a newly-discovered part of this earth, and a peril- 
ous journey has been accomplished without disaster." 

Engineer Melville relates an amusing incident in connec- 
tion with his trip: Nindemann, suffering of the cramps, called 
uponEricksen to apply tincture of capsicum to the aching parts. 
Instead, however, he spilled it upon his own cracked and blis- 
tered hands, which, burning as with fire, caused him to lose 
his head completely and he further applied sweet oil not only 
to these but also to a very large and sore nose. Poor Ericksen 
was greatly surprised, and he rolled and squirmed in the snow 
like an eel, while the men good-naturedl}^ suggested that he 
disrobe and sit down in the snow to cool off; that he station 
himself on top of an ice-hummock lest he melt his way through 
the floe; that he be placed in the forecastle of the ship as a 
heater; that he was "hot enough to make the snow hiss," etc. 

Drifting steadily westward, the vessel was slowly retreat- 
ing from the sight of land. On the night of the 9th she was 
subjected to several severe jars, and amidst a fearful snapping 
and cracking, what was left of the old eighty-yard water lane 
opened to a width of ten feet. 

The further history of the "Jeannette" is brief. Cracking 
in every part by reason of the tremendous pressure about her, 
she began to fill rapidly, and at 4 a. m. of June 12th (Monday, 
June 13, true time), she slowly sank on an even keel, in latitude 
77° 15' north, longitude 155° east. All on board made their 
escape to the ice with an abundance of provisions, twenty-three 
dogs, sledges, boats, and other supplies. "Good-bye, old ship!" 
said De Long sadly, as she went to the bottom. 

At length, on the evening of the 18th of June, began the 



394 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

retreat southward, "hoping with God's blessing to reach the 
New Siberian Islands," and thence to make their way "by boats 
to the coast of Siberia," Traveling by night (when the sun 
was circling lowest, above the northern horizon), they slept 
during the day (when the sun was circling highest, above the 
southern horizon). On the 25th, at midnight — the dinner hour 
— careful observation showed their position to be in latitude 
77° 46'. They had, therefore, as they journeyed southward 
over the ice, been drifted with it to the northwest, and the end 
of the week found them twenty-eight miles farther north than 
when they began the retreat. The course w^as thereupon 
changed to the southwest, which would intersect the drift of 
ice to the northwest and bring them to the edge of the ice 
more rapidly. 

Fogs, lanes of water having to be bridged as often as five 
times in a single half night, rains, "hot weather," causing the 
men to suffer although the temperature of the air in the shade 
was only 30°, and several enfeebled men — those suffering of 
lead-poisoning — retarded progress. On the 

FOURTH OF JULY 

all the flags were set flying in honor of the day. On Sunday, 
the 10th, considerable "needle ice," as it is termed b}^ Parry, 
w^as encountered. In the opinion of that daring navigator this 
is caused by rain-drops, but in the judgment of De Long "by 
the more rapid drawing awaj- of the salt in some places than 
in others, leaving bunches, or tufts of long spikes," 

Supper was had at 7:30 a, m,, after which considerable ex- 
citement was created by the appearance of land to the south- 
west. As the nearest known Siberian island was yet distant 
120 miles, were they approaching some hitherto unknown 
island? At 8:45 the usual divine service was held. On the 
following day it was found that they were in reality approach- 
ing new land. On this day, too, many dovekies, several gulls, 
and one auk were seen, and 

A LIVE BUTTERFLY 

was picked up. The frail thing had undoubtedly been blown 
from the land farther south. This circumstance recalls to the 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 395 

writer the great numbers of butterflies of various species seen 
floating far out at sea — probably 200 miles — off the coast of 
Labrador upon our return from North Greenland in Septem- 
ber, 1894. 

On Sunday, July 17th, more "crimson snow" and mud-bear- 
ing ice were seen. De Long, by breaking through the ice, dis- 
covered that a seal had two breathing-holes leading from the 
sea, the holes being connected by a covered way under the 
thin snow crust. In a cavity in the ice near one of the holes 
the seal had lain and rubbed the shedding hair off his skin. 

On the 20th, a fine 3- oung walrus bull weighing from 1,200 to 
1,500 pounds was killed. This afforded the men and dogs 
choice food for several days. In its stomach were found 
shrimps, small fish like smelts, and sea-anemones. 

On the 2ist the land was again in plain view, and on the 
next da}' a loon, many gulls, and several murres were seen. 

On the 23d the 

"STARS AND STRIPES" 

were unfurled in view of the newly-discovered land. On the 
next day Mr. Collins shot two seals, only one of which was 
secured. Gortz also killed a bear within 500 yards of the 
camp. 

Having returned to the natural order of working by day, 
the part}^ were drifting at 7 p. m. of the 2Gth about a mile off 
shore, abreast a large glacier. Two days later the entire party 
effected a landing, the colors of the United States were un- 
furled and possession of it taken in the name of the President 
of the United States. It was very appropriately named 

BENNETT ISLAND. 

Three cheers were lustily given in gratification of the 
event and also three more for Captain De Long. At this time 
the date was changed to the true one, viz., Friday, July 29th, 
the corrected dates being thereafter used. 

A full week was spent in exploring the island and in mak- 
ing scientific observations. Before noon of the 30th specimens 
of moss, grass, scurvy grass, yellow flowers, tufa, lava, cryo- 
lite (?), amethj^sts, murres' eggs, spotted, and as large as hens' 
eggs, a piece of reindeer horn with moss on it, and a small col- 



S96 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLEi 

lection of drift-wooci, were brought in. Later these collections 
were increased in great abundance. 

Mr. Melville found a large vein of bituminous coal. It 
burned very readily. Hematite, from which brown metallic 
paint is made, was also found. The seam was from six to 
twenty-four inches thick and at an elevation of one hundred 
fifty feet above sea-level. 

Dr. Ambler found the island to be of volcanic origin and 
composed of trap rock containing feldspar, silica in various 
forms, lava varying in color from yellowish-brown to dark 
green, brick-colored clays, quartz, stalagmites, and stalactites, 
etc. The stratification w^as horizontal. Fossils and two va- 
rieties of gypsum-like stones were also found. 

Of the thousands of birds which covered the cliffs enough 
were secured to afford all delicious food while on the island. 
Those fried in bear's fat were pronounced luxurious. From 
small streams was obtained a most welcome suppl}' of pure 
water, fresh and sweet. 

In an excursion along the southern shore Mr. Dunbar found 
traces of bears and foxes, grouse or ptarmigan droppings, 
probably traces of the Arctic hare, an old bone, probably that 
either of a musk-ox or a walrus, and a bear's winter house, 
divided into inner and outer apartments. He also found two 
glaciers — the more distant and larger being the one seen by 
the party on the 26th. It was three miles across its face and 
fifty or sixty feet high. On the ice foot near it was much ''crim- 
son snow\" 

A hundred feet above the sea-level and five hundred up the 
slope was a quantity of drift-wood which had probably been 
carried there by the gradual upheaval of the laud. 

The extinct volcano, foiTr or five miles from the encamp- 
ment at Cape Emma, was found to be nearly a mile inland. 
In attempting to cross it Mr. Dunbar, with Alexey and Ane- 
guin, was stopped by fog when at an elevation of about 1,000 
feet. At that point Avere picked up marine shells. 

Lieutenant Chipp was also sent to examine the west coast 
and made a trip of seventeen miles, bringing back quite a col- 



oil, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 39? 

lection. Mr. Collins accompanied him and made some good 
sketches. 

The position of Cape Emma, the southernmost point of the 
island, was fixed at latitude 76° 38' north, longitude 148° 20' 
east. 

Before leaving the island two of the poorest dogs were shot. 

Breaking camp, the journey southward was resumed on the 
6th of August. On the 30th the entire party, after great effort, 
gained the southern extremity of 

THADDEUS, OR FADDEJEFFSKOI ISLAND. 

Here the explorers' feet, for the first time in two years, pressed 
warm moss and grass upon real good firm ground. "Snoozer," 
the only dog remaining, all the others having been reluctantly 
disposed of, showed his delight by tearing about after lem- 
mings, whose holes were very numerous. Here were also seen 
the tracks of a hare, whole trees of Norway pine, black geese, 
sanderlings, ducks, owls, snipes, seals, a ptarmigan, fresh 
tracks and droppings of reindeer, and the ruins of several tim- 
ber huts. 

Again, on September 4th, after a hard voyage of seventy 
miles, the southern extremity of Kotelnoi Island was attained. 
On it were seen thousands of ducks and other birds peculiar 
to the region, many tracks and antlers of deer, a fossil bone, 
ammonites, large purple jelly-fishes in the sea, lemmings with- 
out number, many large wliite and brown owls, great piles of 
drift-wood, and several ruined huts. In one of the huts were 
found rags stuffed in the chinks, an elephant tusk, a fork, a 
spoon, and a drinking-cup of wood, and a Kussian coin, a 
copeck, dated 1840. The hut was plastered with mud on the 
roof and sides and was built with a porch. 

Pine and spruce logs lay about in great abundance. Some 
of the wood bore fresh marks of axes, etc. 

Steering southwesterly, the forenoon of the 10th brought 
the boats along the north shore of 

SEMENOVSKI ISLAND, 

which appeared to be about one-eighth of a mile in width and 
from 30 to 100 feet high. It seemed to be washing away, and 



S98 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

much mud was visible. Upon its top a deer's antler and some 
mastodon teeth were found. In the afternoon a tine doe was 
killed. Her fawn was shot at, but escaped. The doe had 
probably remained on this island in the spring, behind the herd 
migrating northward, in order to bear her young, and, with 
the return migration in the fall, would probably have again 
joined her kind. The water obtained here tasted "hoggish" 
and was filled with animalculae and "red grubs." 

Again getting under way on the morning of the 12th, Was- 
silevski Island was passed in the course of the forenoon and 
the last stretch toward the Lena delta begun. That night 

IN A FEARFUL GALE. 

the three boats containing the party became separated and 
never again met. The second cutter, in charge of Lieutenant 
Chipp, with Messrs. Dunbar, Sw^eetman, Kuehne, Warren, 
Sharvell, Starr, and Johnson, was never afterwards heard of. 

Four days later the other boats reached the long-struggled- 
for delta. The whale-boat, in charge of Mr. Melville, with 
Lieutenant Danenhower (disabled), and Messrs. Newcomb, Cole, 
Wilson, Leach, Lauterbach, Bartlett, Manson, Aneguin, and 
Tong Sing, entered one of the numerous mouths of the river 
near Cape Borkhia, at a considerable distance south of Barkin, 
the objective point for all the boats. 

De Long's party having landed from the first cutter on the 
17th, he followed his custom of depositing a record indicating 
the progress of the expedition. This w^as near Lighthouse 
Point, the northernmost locality in the Lena delta. He then 
began, on the 19th, the terrible march southward, following 
the upward course of the river. Had he, instead, turned west- 
ward and traveled about thirty-five miles, he would undoubt- 
edly have reached the native settlement at North Bunlun in 
safety. But alas! his chart contained no information con- 
cerning this friendly community and he blindly followed the 
course of starvation and death. 

From the start, Ericksen and Lee, in their enfeebled state, 
retarded the rapid progress of the party. On the 20th seven 
or eight deer were seen, but none was secured. Numei\)us fox 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 399 

traps set for game and several huts were passed. In one of 
the huts the party spent the night of the 21st. While here 
Alexey cautiously stole upon a herd of fourteen reindeer and 
killed two. Accordingly the party remained in camp till the 
24th, eating, and regaining strength. 

Again painfully advancing, the last meal was once more on 
hand when, on the 2Tth, Nindemann and Alexej^ were sent out 
to search for game. Providentialh^, Alexey killed a fine buck. 
Nindemann's rifle failed to explode and the other ten deer 
escaped. 

Five days later, the last mouthful was eaten. For this 
reason, at night on the 3d of October, "Snoozer," the last of the 
dogs, was killed and partaken of. 

Meanwhile, Ericksen had suffered amputation of portions 
of his feet and became unconscious. He died on the 6th, and 
was buried in the river. On the bank there was a placed a 
board inscribed: 

IN MEMORY. 

H. H. ERICKSEN. 

OCT. 6, 1881. 

U. S. S. JEANNETTE. 

Before burial his body was wrapped in the flag and sewed 
into a large bag. His Bible and locks of his hair were feel- 
ingly^ preserved b}" his mates. 

This was the one hundred sixteenth day out since leaving 
the ship. 

On the next day, with only two quarts of alcohol and some 
old tea leaves, the struggle toward Ku Mark Surka was re- 
newed. 

After advancing about eight miles Nindemann and Noros 
were sent ahead, on the 9th, for relief. 

Two days later De Long and party were overtaken by a 
severe snow storm which continued till the afternoon of the 
14th and prevented their advancing more than a mile. 

Again advancing a short distance on the 15th, they en- 
camped near an empty grain raft, or flat-bottomed boat. 
Alexey and Lee had broken down. On the 17th Alexey was 
found to be dying and was baptized by Dr. Ambler. About 



400 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

sunset he breathed his last and was buried in the ice of the 
river. 

On the 19th the camp was shifted a short distance — for the 
last time. 

Meanwhile, Nindemann and Noros were struggling forward. 
Keeping along the west bank of the river, crossing sand-pits 
and streams, sleeping in snow-banks, seeing game — a herd of 
reindeer, a crow, and an owl — at a tantalizing distance, they 
reached, on the evening of the 19th, some huts, in one of which 
they found some fish-nets and other articles and a quantity 
of blue molded but tasteless fish, of which, having built a 
large fire, they proceeded to eat. 

Dysentery now added to their weakness and they were 
obliged to remain by the fire within the hut. The place where 
they then were is known as Bulcour. Would that their com- 
panions had been there with them! 

When, at noon of the 22d, the two men were preparing to 
eat, a figure — a man — suddenly appeared at the door! It was 
one of the natives, but he could give them nothing save a deer 
skin, a pair of skin boots, and a sign that he would shortly 
return to them. He then disappeared on his sleigh, drawn 
by reindeer, leaving the men to query whether they had acted 
wisely in allowing him to go. Noros, however, was confident 
that he was a good Christian and would return. 

That very evening he did return, with two companions and 
supplies. After partaking of food, the two men were placed 
in the sleighs and driven about fifteen miles west of the river, 
where they were kindly received by a small party of natives. 

In spite of Nindemann's efforts to make them understand 
his desires to return to the assistance of their companions in 
the rear, he failed to do so, and on the next day the entire party 
drove southward until, at the end of two days, on the evening 
of the 24th, they arrived at Ku Mark Surka. 

Meanwhile, De Long had recorded, where we took leave of 
him on the 19th, as follows: 

"October 21st, Friday. — One hundred and thirty-first day. 
Kaack was found dead about midnio-ht between the doctor and 





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OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 401 

myself. Lee died about noon. Kead prayers for sick when we 
found he was going. 

"October 22d, Saturday. — One hundred and thirty-second 
day. Too weak to carry the bodies of Lee and Kaack out on 
ice. The doctor, Collins, and I carried them around the corner 
out of sight. Then my eye closed up. 

"October 23d, Sunday. — One hundred and thirty-third day. 
Everybody pretty weak. Slept or rested all day, and then 
managed to get enough wood in before dark. Read part of 
divine service. Suffering in our feet. No foot gear. 

"October 24th, Monday. — One hundred and thirty-fourth 
day. A hard night." 

At Ku Mark Surka, Nindemann and Noros renewed their 
efforts to get relief to their dying companions. Meeting here 
ai Russian exile named Kus-mah, who evidently knew some- 
thing of the state of affairs, for he repeated the words "Jean- 
nette" and "Americansk," and they understood him also to say 
something about "St. Petersburg" and "telegrams," and in- 
ferred that he desired them to write messages to be sent to 
that city. A note was accordingly written and Kus-mah left 
with it on the next morning for Bulun, Nindemann and Noros 
following shortly afterward. They were driven thither in 
charge of a man with a sledge and reindeer. 

Arriving at Bulun on the 29th, thej^ expected to meet Kus- 
mah again, but instead met the commandant of the place, who 
also spoke something concerning "telegrams." They there- 
fore prepared another dispatch and addressed it to the Ameri- 
can minister at St. Petersburg. With this the commandant 
left the village on the next day, Nindemann supposing it being 
his intention to take it to some telegraph station. 

At Bulun, in a miserable hut, the two men, sick with dysen- 
tery, anxiously awaited developments. At length, on the 2d 
of November, there appeared before them a man heavily clad 
in furs. Recognizing him, Noros exclaimed: "My God, Mr. 
Melville, are you alive? We thought that the whaleboat's 
crew were all dead." But they were not dead, and Mr. Mel- 
ville's story was soon told: when, on the 17th of September, 



402 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

the whaleboat had touched at Cape Borkhia, and two days 
later the natives of the place were met with by whom a week 
later they were assisted to get to Gee-o-mo-vi-al-ocke, farther 
south, they were obliged to remain there to recuperate and 
find means of advancing to Bulun. While there Melville had 
met the Russian exile, Kus-mah, and engaged him to go to 
Bulun to engage food, clothing and teams that the party might 
be transported thither at once. Kus-mah took his departure 
on this mission on the IGth of October, met Nindemann and 
Noros at Ku Mark Surka on the 27th, obtaining from them the 
"telegram" which they supposed he desired to forward to St. 
Petersburg, but instead took to Bulun and thence to Melville, 
at Geeomovilocke, arriving there on the evening of the 29th. 

Upon reading the note Mr. Melville left his party tempo- 
rarily in charge of Lieutenant Danenhower and immediately 
started for Bulun, where, as we have seen, he unexpectedly 
appeared before Nindemann and Noros on the 2d of November. 

While all this was taking place, the brave De Long wrote 
in his journal: 

"October 2Tth, Thursday. — One hundred and thirty-seventh 
day. Iversen broken down. 

"October 28th, Friday. — One hundred and thirty-eighth day. 
Iversen died during early morning. 

"October 29th, Saturday. — One hundred and thirty-ninth 
day. Dressier died during night. 

"October 30th, Sunday. — One hundred and fortieth day. 
Boyd and Oortz died during night. Mr. Collins dying." 

Within a day or two after meeting Nindemann and Noros 
at Bulun, Melville had despatched Lieutenant Danenhower to 
Yakutsk with the weakest of his part^^ while he himself, with 
some of the natives, proceeded to descend the river in search of 
De Long. 

Danenhower having first led the party to Bulun, there left 
Nindemann, Noros, Bartlett, Lauterbach, Manson,and Aneguin 
to regain their strength and to assist Mr. Melville. He, with 
the rest of the party, reached Yakutsk after a journey of 1,250 
miles on the 17th of December, 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 403 

On his search in the north part of the delta, Melville was 
absent twenty-three days, and traveled 663 miles, without find- 
ing the missing men. He had, however, at Mat Vai, on the 
9th of November, passed near their last encampment, and 
where, at the time, they were all lying dead. On this trip he 
reached the Arctic coast, found and recovered the documents 
deposited at the first landing place, besides various encamp- 
ments of De Long and his party. Returning to Bulun on the 
27th of November, he i3roceeded with the men left there by 
Danenhower to Yakutsk, arriving there on the 30th of Decem- 
ber, 1881. 

In the ensuing spring Lieutenant Danenhower, Mr. New- 
comb, and the seaman John Cole, and Tong Sing returned to the 
United States. 

Melville, with the remainder of the party as volunteers, 
remained to search once more for the bodies of their comrades. 
Starting from Mat Vai as a base of the search, on the 23d of 
March, 1882, Melville's account runs as follows: "We followed 
the bay until late in the evening, having visited all the head- 
lands; finally we came up to the large river with the broken 
ice. I jumped up on the headland or point of land making 
down in the bay and found where an immense fire had been 
made. * * * About five hundred yards from the point 
where the fire had been I saw the points of four sticks stand- 
ing up out of the snow about eighteen inches, and lashed to- 
gether with a piece of rope. Seeing this I dropped oif the sled, 
and going up to the place on the snow bank, I found a Rem- 
ington rifle slung across the points of the sticks, and the muz- 
zle about eight inches out of the snow. * * * i started 
the natives to digging out the snow bank underneath the tent 
poles. * * * 

"In proceeding to a point to set up the compass I saw a tea- 
kettle partiall}^ buried in the snow. One of the natives had 
follow^ed me, and I pointed out to him the kettle, and advanc- 
ing to pick it up I came upon the bodies of three men, partially 
buried in the snow, one hand reaching out with the left arm of 
the man raised way above the surface of the snow — his whole 



404 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

left arm. I immediately recognized them as Captain De Long, 
Dr. Ambler and Ah Sam, the cook. The captain and the doc- 
tor were lying with their heads to the northward, face to the 
west, and Ah Sam was lying at right angles to the other two, 
with his head about the doctor's middle, and feet in the fire, 
or where the fire had been. The fireplace was surrounded by 
driftwood, immense trunks of trees, and they had their fire in 
the crotch of a large tree. They had carried the tea-kettle up 
there, and got a lot of Arctic willow which they used for tea. 
* * * No doubt they saw that if they died on the river bed, 
where the water runs, the spring freshets would carry them off 
to sea." 

Continuing the search, the bodies of all the others, save 
those of Ericksen and Alexe}^, who had been buried in the river, 
were recovered and buried on an elevation about 300 feet hiah. 

Thorough search left no doubt that Lieutenant Chipp and 
those with him had perished in the gale of September 12th, 
before reaching land. 

In the course of the summer Lieutenant Giles B. Harber, 
of the United States navy, also made a thorough search of the 
delta, with like results. In the autumn, Ensign Hunt, with 
Messrs. Bartlett, Leach, Lauterbach, and Mansou returned to 
the United States. Wilson, being ill, had preceded them. 
Aneguin died of the smallpox on the journey. 

At the conclusion of his search Mr. Melville set out for 
Yakutsk, where he arrived on the 8tli of June. He had been 
joined previously by Colonel W. H. Gilder, Lieutenant Berry 
and Ensign Hunt, who had accompanied the United States 
steamship "Rodgers" on her proposed examination of the north 
coast of Siberia. The "Rodgers" having been burned when in 
the Bay of St. Lawrence, these three men had persisted in jour- 
neying overland till they met Mr. Melville. From Yakutsk this 
party returned to the United States. Lieutenant Harber re- 
mained another season (1883) and renewed the search, and 
although unsuccessful in its prime object, he brought back 
the remains of Lieutenant-Commander De Long and com- 
panions, 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 405 



CHAPTER XL. 

HEROIC AMERICANS: THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY 

EXPEDITION. 

The Lady Franklin Bay Expedition, with its remarkable 
success in geographical exploration and scientific research, 
and its horrible ending in starvation and death, forms one of 
the most thrilling episodes in the annals of history. In accord- 
ance with a plan adopted by various nations for the purpose of 
establishing magnetical and meteorological stations at various 
circum-polar points the United States determined to send a 
party to Lady Franklin Bay, in northeast Grinnell Land, 

LIEUTENANT ADOLPHUS W. GREELY, 

acting signal officer LTnited States Army and a veteran soldier 
as well, was placed in charge. With a niggardly allowance of 
only |25,000, three-fourths of which were expended in char- 
tering a vessel, this undaunted man, in spite of repeated de- 
lays for which he was in no wise responsible, proceeded to 
arrange for the departure of the expedition. With less than 
|6,000 he was compelled to purchase the supply of coal, scien- 
tific instruments, boats, clothing, dogs, pemmican, lime Juice 
and other articles of diet, natural histor^^ supplies, household 
equipage, etc., for a party of twenty-five men destined to be 
absent in the Arctic World from two and a half to three years! 
Moreover, by reason of the unfriendly hindrances in Lieuten- 
ant Greely's wsij, he was obliged to prepare the special requi- 
sition for food, clothing and other supplies in less than three 
days — and this when it was well known that the quantity and 
quality of all such were of vital importance to a party ventur- 
ing so far north! 



406 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Nevertheless, in Senator Conger, General Ilazen, Major Ap- 
pleby, and President Gilman of Johns Hopkins University, the 
cause of science found faithful champions, men who saw bet- 
ter things than mere dimes and dollars, politics and parties, 
and the Lady Franklin Bay Expedition was finall}^ enabled to 
leave St. John's, New Foundlaud, July 7th, 1881. 

Among Greely's assistants w^ere the following: Lieutenant 
F. F. Kislingbury, who, in a service of fifteen years, had an 
excellent reputation for field work; Lieutenant J. B. Lock- 
wood, an officer of eight years' experience, a portion of which 
was spent in Nebraska, Kansas, Indian Territory and Colo- 
rado; Dr. Pavy, physician and naturalist; Sergeants Israel 
and Rice, the astronomer and photographer respectively, who 
cheerfully accepted enlisted service in order to accomjDany the 
expedition; besides Sergeants Jewell, Ralston, and Gardiner, 
faithful and efficient meteorological observers. Sergeant 
Brainard, of the Second Cavalry, was among those destined to 
gain meritorious distinction. 

In the "Proteus," a New Foundland sealer of 467 tons reg- 
ister, commanded by Captain Richard Pike, the expedition ar- 
rived at Godhaven, or Disco, Greenland, on the Kith. At various 
points on the coast a lot of fine dogs, fur clothing, and wild 
fowl were secured. A ton and a half .of Hudson Bay pem- 
mican and the remains of a house purchased in the preceding 
year for the proposed Howgate expedition were also taken 
aboard. Dr. Pavy and Mr. Henry Clay, a grandson of the 
great statesman, and tw^o Danish Eskimos joined the expedi- 
tion from Rittenbenk and Proven. 

Melville Bay, being free of ice, was crossed on July 30th 
and 31st, in thirty-six hours. On the evening of the latter date 
a landing was made on the Cary Islands, where the whale-boal 
and provisions left by Sir George Nares in 1875 were found in 
good condition. The depot was located in a small cove on the 
southern end of the southeast island of the group. The cans 
of Australian beef, though exposed on the bare rocks directly 
to the heat of summer and the intense cold of winter, had kept 
well. Undoubtedly, provisions cached would keep much longer 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 407 

by being covered, thus avoiding the extremes of heat and cold. 
On the west side of the island was found drift-wood, such as 
an oar, pieces of charred ornamental work, etc., evidently por- 
tions of Melville Bay wrecks. Inglefield speaks of finding 
such fragments farther north near Cape Athol, near the en- 
trance to Whale Sound. The writer has also picked them up 
along the low pebbly shore, on the north side of 01-rick's Bay, 
an eastern arm of the sound, and farther north than Cape 
Athol. They undoubtedly bear evidence of a high northwest 
ocean current on the west coast of Greenland. 

Littleton Island was reached on August 2d. On the ex- 
treme northern end of the west coast, about thirty yards from 
the water's edge, was found the mail left for the English 
expedition in 1876, by Sir Allen Young, then on his voyage in 
the "Pandora" ("Jeannette"). On the northern end of the 
island were hundreds of eider ducks nesting, the eggs, however, 
being too far gone for use. In and around the large cask 
placed about twenty feet above sea-level on low ground on the 
extreme southwestern [southeast (?)] point of Littleton Island 
were deposited about six and a half tons of coal. Life-boat Cove 
w^as visited and the transit instrument, a cooking stove, steam 
gauge, a thermometer upon which was scratched the name of 
Hall, etc., were found on the site of Polaris House. In an old 
Eskimo hut on the south side of the island were discovered the 
remains of an Eskimo woman, who, probably the last of a 
family, had evidently been thus buried. Inglefield found the 
body of a man thus entombed, the passageway to the house 
having been blocked by a stone, and was informed that such 
was the customary way of disposing of the body when the last 
member of a family dies. 

Leaving Littleton Island, the sea appeared to be free of ice 
some forty miles northward. Directing her course therefore 
toward Cape Hawks, Cape Sabine was passed about 2 a. m. of 
the 3d, wdiere, it is now to be deplored, a contingency depot 
was not made, ^bout 4:30 a. m. the vessel was opposite the 
center of Bache Island. The sea was as smooth as a mill- 
pond and the entire coast of Ellesmere and Grinnell lands was 



408 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

not only visible, but reflected perfectly from the water's sur- 
face. The view was clear and distinct from Cape Sabine to 
Cape Napoleon. The highlands near Van Rensselaer Harbor, 
on the Greenland side, were also plainly visible. No other 
vessel had gained so high a latitude in those waters with such 
ease. At 5 a. m. but few pieces of floe or harbor-ice could be 
seen in Kane Sea, and only two icebergs had been sighted be- 
tween Capes Sabine and Cape Hawks. 

Cape Hawks was passed and at 9 a. m the English depot 
of '75 in Dobbin Bay was examined and found in fair condition. 
Some of the pickles, preserved potatoes, rum, and the jolly-boat 
were taken along. The depot, like that on Southeast Cary 
Island, consisted of thirty-six hundred rations. Greely hesi- 
tated to disturb it, especially the jollj'-boat, but as insufficient 
funds had prevented him taking along a proper equipment of 
boats, he felt constrained to do so. 

At 5 p. m. Cape McClintock was reached and the 80th par- 
allel crossed. A half hour later Cape Collinson was sighted, 
but owing to dense fog no examination of the small English 
cache was made. 

At noon of the 4th Franklin Island was passed, both coasts 
of Kennedy Channel and Hall Basin as far as Polaris Pro- 
montory showing up plainly in a clear atmosphere. 

On a high bench on the north side of a creek emptying 
into Carl Eitter Bay was established a small depot. In a short 
excursion up the valley, Lieutenant Kislingbury discovered 
traces of hares, foxes, and musk-cattle. Half a mile off shore, in 
a sounding of forty-two fathoms, delicate si:ar-fishes and crus- 
taceans were obtained. On shore eight varieties of flowers 
were gathered. 

At 9 p. m. the "Proteus" entered the southeastern part of 
Lady Franklin Bay, about two miles southeast of Cape Baird. 
In this vicinity, for the first time, the voyagers were stopped 
by ice — great pa-le-o-cryst-ic floes from twenty-five to fifty 
feet in thickness. A northeasterly wind soon drove a large 
quantity of pack-ice into Hall Basin and Kennedy Channel and 
the vessel was forced southward till on the 11th she had lost 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 409 

forty miles of latitude and was fifty instead of only eight miles 
from the proposed headquarters in Water-course Bay. Mean- 
while, several schools of white whales, attended by their active 
enemy, the sw^ord-fish, as well as a number of narw hales, were 
seen. Several brent geese, a boatswain, a snowy owl, snow 
bunting, ringed plover, ivory gull, falcon, tern, and glaucous 
gull were also observed. Manj^ dovekies appeared off the cliffs 
near Cape Lieber. Of seals, both the harp and square-flipper 
species visited the vessel. 

At length, under the influence of a strong southwest wind, 
the ice was again driven northward, and the "Proteus" speed- 
ily regained her former position and terminated her vo^^age 
on the afternoon of the 11th. This was in Discovery Harbor, 
the location of Captain Stephenson's party just five years pre- 
vious. The ice prevented a landing in Water-course Bay, 
where an excellent seam of coal and pleasant shores were well 
suited for a station. Upon landing, a dozen or more fine musk- 
cattle were killed. Thick beds of mosses, grasses, sedges, but- 
tercups and Arctic poppies smiled a cheering welcome to the 
new-comers. 

A week later the "Proteus" began her return voyage to St. 
John's, but being unable to break entirely through the ice in 
the ba}^, it was not until the evening of the 26th that she 
effected her escape into Kennedy Channel and thence home. 
Mr. Clay, a gentleman of refinement and culture, in order to 
pacify Dr. Pavy, who had taken offense at him, decided to 
return with the "Proteus" that the expedition might not be 
deprived of the services of a physician. Two other men, owing 
to the development of physical disabilities, were also obliged 
to return much against their wishes. 

Thus left alone, the part}^ rapidly pushed forward the erec- 
tion of a house, which, when finished, was called 

FORT CONGER, 

in honor of the Senator who had so courageously befriended 
the expedition. On Sunday, AugUvSt 28tli, all were assembled 
in the fort, where, at 10 a. m.. Lieutenant Greely read a selec- 



410 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

tion from the I*salms for that day of the month, counseled the 
men upon the imj^ortanee of harmony and called their atten- 
tion in particular to that verse which recites how delightful a 
thing it is for brethren to dwell together in unity. He also 
announced that it was both proper and right that the Sabbath 
should be observed and that regularly every man would be 
expected to be present at the services on that day unless he 
had conscientious scruples against listening to the reading 
of the Bible. Lieutenant Greely, however, nearly always re- 
frained from making comments upon the selections read. He 
recommended that after services the men should take exercise 
either in hunting or simply walking from headquarters. 

Until about the middle of October sledging parties were 
kept almost constantly in the field. Lockwood explored St. 
Patrick's Ba^^, at the head of which there is a valley with sides 
deeply worn and grooved and conspicuously marked by mesa- 
lands, first on one side then on the other, like the mud flats of 
a river, from which it is to be inferred that the valley was once 
below the level of the sea and occupied by a glacier. Pavy 
and Kice proceeded overland to Cape Union "searching care- 
fully for traces of the missing 'Jeanuette.' " Several small 
lakes were discovered, in one of which was seen a fish six or 
eight inches long. The English depot at Lincoln Bay was 
found to be in much disorder, but a large quantity of beef, 
stearine, curry paste, onion powder, and matches were in per- 
fect condition. At the head of the bay coal of good quality 
was found. On the beach of St. Patrick's Ba^^, Connell and 
the Eskimo Christiansen found a coniferous tree about ten 
inches in diameter and thirty feet long. It had evidently been 
carried there by some current within two years, and afforded 
the party a bright, cheery fire. Brainard, with Jewell, Cross, 
Salor, and Connell, made a boat journey to Cape Beechy on 
August 31st and September 1st. Robeson Channel had cleared 
suddenly of ice, but, upon their arrival at the cape, it again as 
quickly filled before a northwest wind and compelled them to 
return overland. In a trip to St. Patrick's Bay, Gardiner 
found an eight-man sledge, a twelve-foot cedar boat, cooking 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 411 

lamp, and a pick-ax, while Lynn also found at Water-course 
Bay a cart, all of which had been abandoned by the English 
expedition. They were very serviceable to the Greely party. 
Lockwood also made a trip to the Bellows — a valley twelve 
or fifteen miles west of Fort Conger — and discovered pieces of 
coal, but could not locate the seam. He also found a stick of 
knotty pine three feet long and eight inches in diameter frozen 
in the earth of the valle}^, at an elevation above the sea of 
about 150 feet. In a trip to Sun Bay, Lieutenant Greely was 
fortunate enough to observe the manner in which musk-cattle 
obtain their food, namely, by first removing the snow by means 
of the foot, and then by loosening the thick mats or tufts of 
saxifraga oppositifolia or dr^^as octopetala with nose or horn. 

The results of the autumn's work were highly gratifying; 
the men had received invaluable training, four depots had been 
established northward, the scientific apparatus properly 
placed, new discoveries made in the interior of Grinnell Land, 
and twenty-six musk-oxen, ten ducks, two seals, a hare, and a 
ptarmigan, affording about 6,000 pounds of fresh meat to the 
party and as much offal to the dogs, secured. Other forms of 
life, noted in that high latitude were moths, flies, caterpillars, 
spiders,mosquitoes, and "daddy-long-legs," besides a few small 
fish in Lake Alexandra. Numerous wolves and foxes also put 
in an appearance at the fort. 

From October 15th to February 28th occurred the Arctic 
night, that period being spent very busil3^ in making and re- 
cording on an average 526 regular scientific observations daily, 
and in advancing the supplies for the journey northward in 
the spring. Until about the middle of November, Kobeson 
Channel remained more or less open and prevented the trans- 
portation of supplies to the Greenland side. An abundance 
of fuel and food, the latter in great variety, kept all in health 
and general good cheer. Such luxuries as the regular bath 
and an occasional allowance of liquors and tobacco, together 
with the regular celebration of the men's birthdays and the 
holidays with games and special bills of fare, shortened the 
dark months very materially. 



412 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

On Christmas — falling on Sabbath — many gifts which had 
been sent aboard the "Proteus" by friends and well-wishers of 
the expedition, were distributed. "A number of the men," says 
General Greely, ''who had lived lives marked by neglect and 
indifference on the part of the world, were touched even to 
tears, although they strove man-like to conceal them. The 
commanding officer received a fan — not needed for Arctic use; 
and Lieutenant Kislingbury a small dog, which excited the 
more amusement when he turned away the ridicule by calling- 
out, 'O, Schneider, don't you want to buy a dog?' Poor Schnei- 
der, who had been caring for the dogs of the expedition, did not 
hear the last of it for some time." 

At 10 a. m. Lieutenant Greely read not only the "Psalms 
for Christmas," but also the 139th and 140th Psalms. The 
singing of a hymn and the doxology, led by Lieutenant Kisling- 
bury, formed an impressive service as the tenderest feelings of 
the men went out to those at home. 

Washington's Birthday was also appropriately celebrated. 

From March 1st to 10th, inclusive, Lockwood, Brainard, 
Jewell, and the Eskimo Christiansen, made a sledge trip to 
Thank God Harbor, where the}^ found the graves of Captain 
Hall, and of the English seamen. Hand and Paul, in excellent 
condition. A considerable quantity of food and useful articles 
cached there were found to be in serviceable condition. From 
the harbor the party proceeded to Newman Bay, and thence on 
the ice to Cape Sumner, thus practically circumscribing Polaris 
Promontory, Ilobeson Cliannel was then recrossed to "Depot 
B," near Cape Beechey, in tw^elve and a half hours, and the re- 
turn to Conger was made with all in excellent health. The 
average temperature in which the party had traveled was 
—42.3° Fahrenheit. 

From March 5th to 9th inclusive, Pavy, with Lynn and Es- 
kimo Jens, was employed in transporting about 700 pounds 
of provisions to a point on Polaris Promontory designated as 
"the Gap," midway between Capes Lupton and Sumner. The 
average temperature in wliich they worked was about — 30° 
Fahrenheit, From the 13th to the 20th inclusive, Brainard, 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 413 

with seven men, was engaged in a similar office, the supplies 
transported including the small boat "Discovery." During 
six consecutive days the average temperature was — 41° 

On the 19th Pavy, Eice, and Jens left on a northward trip. 
Departing from Lincoln Bay on the 6th, Cape Sheridan, the 
winter quarters of the "Alert" in 1875-0, was reached on the 
11th. The signal pole erected there was still standing firm. 
Beneath the stone covering the remains of the Danish inter- 
preter, Petersen, an Arctic hare had taken up his residence. 
On the copper plate at the head of the grave was engraved the 
words: "He shall wash me, and I shall be as white as snow." 

Farther on, when near Cape Joseph Henry, on the 16th, 
many traces of musk-cattle, and fresh tracks of the fox, lem- 
ming, hare, and ptarmigan, were observed. 

By tlie 20th the party were on the sea-ice about four miles 
north of the cape, but the pack beginning to disintegrate and 
move off shore, the}^ were compelled to abandon the tent, pro- 
visions and some of the scientific instruments and beat a hasty 
retreat. Dr. Pavy estimated that he had attained latitude 82" 
56' and that had they not met open water they could have 
reached 84°. Fort Conger was again reached on May 2d, after 
an absence of six weeks. All were in perfect health and the 
services of Sergeant Rice and Jens were specially commended 
by Dr. Pavy. 

In a twelve daj^s' trip into the interior of Grinnell Land, 
extending from the 26th of April to the 7th of May, Lieutenant 
Greely, with Privates Connell, Bender, and Whisler, made im- 
portant discoveries: The Conybeare Bay of the English expe- 
dition was found to be a fiord and was named in honor of Secre- 
tary Chandler of the United States navy, as showing "in a faint 
way," IJeutenant Greely's "appreciation of the great energy 
shown, and serious responsibility assumed by Mr. Chandler in 
fitting out the relief expedition of 1884;" Lake Hazen, con- 
necting with Chandler Fiord by means of Ruggles' River, was 
discovered and named, and the adjacent country was observed 
to abound in game. Later in the season Greely and others of 
his party made further explorations in the same regions and 
27 



414 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

farther west, discovering the remains of numerous Eskimo 
huts and very many relics. The vegetation was luxuriant for 
that latitude and many musk-cattle, in droves of from five to 
more than thirty each, were seen and several killed. Geese, 
long-tailed ducks, terns, king ducks, turnstones, sand-pipers, 
gulls aud skuas were yeiy numerous. New discoveries of coal 
were also made. The interior w^as found to be much broken 
and rugged and occupied by numerous small lakes, which, 
being fed aud drained by numerous streams, serve as reser- 
voirs and dischargers of the inconsiderable snow-fall. Sev- 
eral glaciers and mountains were noted and appropriately des- 
ignated by the commanding offtcer, generally in honor of the 
enlisted men of the party, through whose "hearty cooperation, 
great persistency and untiring energy" the trips were success- 
fully made. It should not be overlooked that Lieutenant Gree- 
ly often took the drag-line himself and pulled in the "man 
team" with his subordinates. 

A noteworthy incident of the summer was the observation 
of Decoration Day as a general holiday. Happily there were 
no graves to decorate, but Privates Frederick and Long, in 
default of real flowers, made a large bouquet of artificial flow- 
ers and placed it upon the head-boards set up b}^ the British 
Expedition in 1876, commemorative of the young Englishmen, 
Paul and Hand, who are interred at Hall's Rest, on the Green- 
land coast. 

The most important result of the season's work, however, 
was the attainment of 

THE FARTHEST NORTH. 

In the equipment of the party accomplishing this, there were 
five sledges, one drawn by eight dogs and accompanied by 
Christiansen as driver and one man, the four others drawn by 
ten men, who constituted a supporting party. The smallest 
of the men, Whisler, weighed 156 pounds; the largest, Henry, 
203 pounds. 

Leaving Oonger on the 3d and 4th of April, under command 
of Lieutenant James B. Lockwood, the 6th found the party en- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 415 

camped well out on the ice of Robeson Channel. The tempera- 
ture fell to — 48.8°. Brainard records: "Connell froze one of his 
toes in the sleeping-bag; it is very sore and considerably swol- 
len, but he, however, intends to retain his place in the drag- 
rojjes; Henry suffering with rheumatism, and says he cannot 
proceed, and so has been ordered to return to the station. So 
much for huge men for Arctic service." Both men, in fact, 
started back for Conger that same day. Council very reluctant- 
ly, however. 

A storm ensued and held them in camp till the evening of 
the 9th. The wind attained an estimated velocity of sixty 
miles an hour. The men, however, were cheered by the sun 
being above the northern horizon at midnight. 

Passing Cape Sumner they traveled ten hours over rough 
ice to Polaris Boat Camp, where violent squalls ensued. One 
gust of wind lifting the dog-sledge with its 200 pound load 
bodily struck Ralston on the forehead and severely injured 
him. At this camp forty hours passed before they were able 
to have a satisfactory meal. Whisler suffered of pain in the 
lungs and spat blood, while Biederbick complained of a blad- 
der difficulty and both returned to the fo*rt. The gales con- 
tinued and a new danger was added. Says Brainard: "From 
the high cliff huge rocks were blown which came crashing 
down to the very edge of the floe, endangering our lives and 
warning us that traveling on the ice-foot was too dangerous to 
be persisted in." 

At this camp (Boat) the dogs stole about forty pounds of 
meat from the light muslin bags. Only two of the sledges 
being now serviceable, a third was extemporized and the party 
again began to advance at 10 p. m. of the 16th, the men drag- 
ging an average of 182 pounds, and the dogs an average of 100 
pounds each. 

Striking the opposite shore of Newman Bay, they entered 
what was supposed to be Gap Valley, but which instead was 
found to be Gorge Creek. Ascending this, the descent of Lost 
River was then made, the morning of the 22d finding the party 
on the sea-coast a little to the east of Repulse Harbor. In these 



416 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

gorges the temperature on the 20th of April fell to — 40°, and the 
journey through them was made with painful labor. About 
half a mile from the coast, in Lost Kiver, Lockwood found an 
old piece of driftwood, either pine or fir, six feet long, four 
inches wide and four inches thick. 

Of the sledges used, those of the Hudson Bay pattern per- 
formed the better service. 

The lime-juice pemmican was exceedingl}^ distasteful, and 
being eaten frozen caused the lips and mouth to become sore. 

The sleeping-bags too were frozen and required three or 
four men to unroll them. They were of buffalo-skins. 

During the 22d another storm raged and confined them in 
camp. The dogs stole thirty pounds more of the meat which 
was "thought" to be out of their reach. 

Advancing on the 23d, when only a short distance from the 
camp, Brainard found a newly-made hole and the tracks of a 
seal in the new snow. 

Soft snow at and beyond Drift Point compelled them to ad- 
vance by half loads. 

Encamping near Black Horn Cliffs on the 24th, Capes Sheri- 
dan, Union and Black, and the United States Mountains 
could be clearly seen at a distance of about fifty miles. The 
temperature was 11°, and the hot, blazing sun thawed the sur- 
face of the black dirty snow near the cliffs and completely 
soaked the skin boots of the men. 

About this time Lieutenant Lockwood read a letter written 
by Lieutenant Greely in which that officer offered a conditional 
reward of |900 and upward, conditional upon making the far- 
thest north. Lieutenant Lockwood offered 50 per cent addi- 
tional reward. "It seemed," says Greely, "a proper intimation 
that success would be in some way rewarded." 

Near this camp Lockwood saw a couple of ptarmigans in 
winter plumage. On the 25th Christiansen became sick, but 
after advancing a few miles a drink of hot brandy caused him 
to sleep and he recovered, allowing the party to advance on the 
following day past Cape Stanton, across Hand Bay, to a point 
near Frankfield Bay. 




Dr. T. C. Chamberlin, Head Professor of Geology, 
University of Chicago. 
(See Chapters I. and XLll.) 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 417 

Leaving camp at 7 a. m. of the 27th, in two and a half hours 
the}^ gained the opposite shore of the bay, and at 8 p. m. reached 
Cape Bryant. At this time Sergeants Brainard and Ralston 
suffered of snow-blindness, and Private Frederick of an injured 
knee. 

Only two sledges now remained and it was decided to send 
one of these back with the supporting party to Polaris Boat 
Camp and to Conger, while Lockwood, Brainard and Christian- 
sen would continue northward, which they did, reaching Cape 
Britannia at 7:53 p. m. of the 5th. They there stood on "land 
before untrodden by man, and thenceforward everything was 
doubly new." Ascending a peak some 2,000 feet high, they 
were evidently on an island, the north headland of which was 
called Cape Frederick. Traces of foxes, hares, lemmings and 
musk-cattle abounded. 

Arriving at the west entrance to Mascart Inlet, animal life 
was prolific and vegetation must have been luxuriant in the 
vicinity. A hare was captured, and tw^o ptarmigans and traces 
of foxes and lemmings were observed. The tracks of a bear 
going northeast and abundant traces of musk-oxen were also 
noted. 

On the 10th, in a violent gale, they crossed De Long Fiord, 
and after a journey of twenty-two miles made in nine and a half 
hours reached Mary Murray Island, where the gale delayed 
them sixty-three and a half hours. Here a lemming was cap- 
tured by the dogs, several snow-buntings flew around, and hare 
tracks were noticed. 

In spite of high wind and low temperature the gallant men, 
incited to attain the highest north possible, ate, during this 
exciting period, at intervals of fifteen, twenty-four, and nine- 
teen hours, that their food might last the longer. 

On May 13th they made their last outward march and en- 
camped on the north end of an island afterwards named in 
honor of Lockwood. Near by was another which has been 
very appropriately designated to commemorate the tireless 
efforts of Brainard, who, writing concerning their triumph, 
says: "We have reached a higher latitude than ever before 



418 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

reached by mortal man, and on a land farther north than was 
supposed by many to exist. We unfurled the glorious Stars 
and Stripes to the exhilarating northern breezes with an exul- 
tation impossible to describe." 

Sub-polar and cir-cum-meridian observations placed them 
in latitude 83° 23.8'. 

About eight miles beyond was visible a headland upon 
which was bestowed the name of Kane, and about seven miles 
still farther, another, which they proudly designated 

CAPE WASHINGTON. 

the farthest north of any land now known to exist. 

In a large, conspicuous cairn about six feet high were de- 
posited a record of their journey to date and a minimum reg- 
istering thermometer, set at 14° and reading to — 65°. The 
cairn was built about thirty feet above and as far from the ice- 
foot. 

On the summit of the island they unfurled the American 
flag of silk which Mrs. Greely had made, in latitude 83° 24' 
north, longitude 40° 46' west. 

On the 16th they began the return march to Conger, where, 
after an absence of sixty days, they arrived on the 1st of June, 
strong, healthy, and sound. 

And thus was gained the proud distinction not merely of 
planting the Nation's flag four miles farther north than that 
of any other country, but of adding 125 miles of coast, embrac- 
ing several hundred miles of inland fiords, to North Greenland, 
of making known important phj^sical facts and of acquiring 
valuable exj^erience for future work. 

Had Lieutenant Greely directed the total energies of his 
party toward the Greenland coast, instead of permitting any 
efforts in the direction of Cape Joseph Henry, the ''farthest 
north" would undoubtedly have been placed beyond the 84th 
parallel, perhaps at the 85th. 

The sledging work for the season of 1882 over, the arrival 
of a relief steamer was anxiously awaited at Conger. But 
none came, and although there was still an abundance of sup- 
plies for another year, there was considerable discouragement 



OR, LIFE. IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 419 

in the party, and the physician unwisely reported unfavorably 
concerning the probable health of the men for the ensuing win- 
ter. The ill effects of this, however, Greely proceeded to 
counteract by giving special attention to details affecting the 
health and spirits of his party. The quarters were rendered 
dryer and warmer and all passed the second winter in better 
health than during the first. As illustrations of the abundance 
of game in the vicinity of Conger, it ma}- be cited that, after his 
return from the "farthest north," Lieutenant Lockwood, in a 
launch trip taken to the head of Archer Fiord, secured twelve 
musk-oxen,' weighing 2,400 pounds, twenty-four geese, three 
hares, twenty ptarmigans, and forty-five smaller birds, while 
Long, in an absence of but twenty-two hours, killed and skinned 
eight musk-oxen, wounded two others, and allowed four more 
to escape. 

A relief steamer, the "Neptune," had indeed been sent, and 
after arriving at Pandora Harbor, in the vicinity of Littleton 
Island, remained there more than a week hunting and "riding- 
out a succession of southwesterly gales," instead of taking ad- 
vantage of and moving with them northward. The "Neptune," 
however, reached latitude 79° 20', only twelve miles from Cape 
Hawks, on August 10th, and also touched at other points a 
little farther south, but failed to establish other than one or 
two small provision depots, taking back with her to Newfound- 
land the relief supplies. 

In the course of the ensuing summer season the party at 
Fort Conger renewed the work on the coast of North Green- 
land, but upon arriving at Black Horn Cliffs, April 1st, twen- 
ty-four days earlier than in 1882, with forty-one days' full ra- 
tions for the advance party and seventeen for the supporting 
party, with a still farther north seemingly within easy reach, 
the ice began to disintegrate and all were obliged to return to 
Conger, arriving there on the 12th of the same month. In the 
course of this trip Sergeant Jewell made valuable tidal read- 
ings at various points, which, supplemented with later readings 
from other localities, gave valuable data for determining the 
co-tidal lines of the Polar Ocean and Eobeson Channel. 



420 THE SEARCH POU THE NORTH POLE; 

From April 25th to May 26th Lockwood and Brainard, with 
Christiansen, were engaged in exploring the interior of Grin- 
nell Land, the trip resulting in the discovery and partial explo- 
ration of Greely Fiord on the west coast. 

As the summer of 1883 advanced apace all again anxiously 
awaited the arrival of the relief steamer. But none came, for 
although the "Proteus" and the "Yantic" passed to points north 
of Cape Sabine, no supplies to speak of were deposited, the 
"Proteus" was crushed in the ice and the "Yantic" returned 
with all her relief stores aboard. 

Some one had evidently blundered and the brave men at 
Conger were thrown upon their own resources. Abandoning 
the station on the 8th of August, 1883, after a perilous voyage 
of fifty-one days the entire party arrived in good health, on 
the 29th of September, near Cape Sabine — only a few miles 
west of Dr. Kane's headquarters — where, in the ensuing 
months of darkness, cold, and squalor, was to transpire a scene 
of miserable yet heroic starvation such as had never before 
been enacted. 

In a wretched hut but little more than three feet high and 
built of stones and snow-blocks, the whale-boat and pieces of 
canvas serving as a roof, these men, twenty-five in number, 
remained huddled together for long and painful months. 

In November a party was sent to Cape Isabella to obtain 
one hundred pounds of preserved meat left there by the Eng- 
lish expedition. On this trip Elison froze his hands, feet, and 
face to a most horrible extent and amputation of the limbs was 
ultimately resorted to in order to save his life. 

The cravings for food about this time seemed nearl}' to 
drive some if not all of the men insane. In order to relieve 
the mental strain, lectures and discussions on various topics 
were held. Lieutenant Greely talked on the geography of the 
United States; Lieutenant Lockwood read from the "History 
of Our Own Times"; Whisler dilated on the city of Independ- 
ence, Kansas, as a splendid place for business; Frederick and 
Long proposed to set up restaurants upon their return, the 
former in Minneapolis, and the latter in Ann Arbor, while Jew- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 421 

ell thought that a grocery store in Kansas would prove to be 
the most satisfactory to him. And thus places and events un- 
important to others were to them matters of pleasant contem- 
plation. 

At length on the 18th of January death began to relieve 
them of their long-continued sufferings. On that date Ser- 
geant Cross died — of starvation — his end being hastened from 
the effects of intemperance in early life. Lieutenant Greely 
read the burial service over his body on the next day, and he 
was buried with marked respect. On the day following his 
interment he would have been forty years of age, and had saved 
quite a quantity of bread and butter with which to celebrate 
the event. 

Early in February Rice and Jens endeavored to cross the 
ice to Littleton Island, hoping to find there a depot and also to 
communicate with the friendly natives of Etah, When about 
ten miles from the island open water was met and they returned 
to the miserable death hole at Oamp Clay. Lockwood recorded: 
"Of course we are all very much disappointed; the party take 
a bold front, and are not wanting in spirit. Our rations have 
been counted on to last until March 10th, there being a ration 
of twelve ounces of bread and ten ounces of meat for ten days 
in March to cross the straits. So here is the upshot of affairs. 
If our fate is the worst, I do not think we shall disgrace the 
name of Americans and of soldiers." 

With scanty diet, greatly reduced and depending largely 
upon a few ounces of shrimps, or "sea-lice," in size about as 
large as millet seeds, or so small that 2,300 of them were re- 
quired to fill a gill measure, the brave struggle for life con- 
tinued. 

Nevertheless death again visited them on the 5th of April 
and claimed the faithful Eskimo Christiansen, concerning 
whom Lockwood wrote: "He was a good man, and I felt a 
great affection for him. He certainly worked hard in my ser- 
vice, and never spared himself on any sledge trip. His death 
makes me feel very sorrowful." 

On the next day Lynn, a strong, vigorous man, whom all 



422 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

liked aud respected, died. His dreadful experience on the trip 
to Cape Isabella in November, for the purpose of searching for 
the English cache, had broken him almost completely, Ke- 
calling the motto of Kentucky, ^'United we stand, divided we 
fall," he pathetically reiterated it as discipline and encourage- 
ment occasionally became necessai:y. 

Deeply affected by Lynn's death, Lockwood failed rapidly 
and breathed his last on the 9th, "calmly and peacefully, with- 
out suffering, as passed away all of our party," adds Lieutenant 
Greely, who also pays to his lamented second officer the fol- 
lowing tribute: "Lieutenant Lockwood was a gallant officer, 
a brave, true and loyal man. Christian charity, manliness, and 
gentleness were the salient points of his character; of a modest 
and retiring nature, he did not make friends quickly, but his 
personal qualities invariably commanded respect. Slow to 
form an opinion, he decided wisely, and bent his best energies 
to the accomplishment of his duties; and to those quali- 
ties, and not to good fortune, must be attributed his great suc- 
cesses. He always did his best, and that best will give him a 
name in Arctic history as long as courage, perseverance, and 
success shall seem worthy of man's praise and ambition." 

A few hours later on the same day, Kice, Avhen absent with 
Frederick on a trip to Baird Inlet for a small quantity of pro- 
visions, became exhausted, and, despite the heroic efforts of 
Frederick, who took from his own body his sealskin jacket 
with which to wtap poor Rice's feet, and sat in his shirt sleeves 
on the sledge holding and endeavoring to encourage the failing 
man, he died at a quarter of eight that night. Eice had en- 
deared himself to his comrades and his unexpected death 
caused deep mourning among the rapidly diminishing numbers 
in the hut. 

On the 12th Jewell became unconscious while in Lieutenant 
Greely's arms, and died shortly afterwards. Although not 
large physically, he had done extraordinary field work, and 
his meteorological observations were always efficiently and 
conscientiously made. 

About thi^ time Long and Jens killed a young bear weigh- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 423 

ing, when dressed, 400 pounds, and a small seal weighing sixty 
pounds. This good fortune brought joy to the starving men, 
and death was held in check until the 29th, when Jens, the 
"Little Man," lost his life b}- drowning, when hunting on the 
ice with Long. His big heart and Christian conduct caused all 
to have great affection for him. On another occasion when 
hunting with Long, the ice broke and Long was carried out 
to sea on a detached floe. In spite of Long's urging Jens to 
return to fast ice, the generous fellow declined to do so and 
paddled out to him, saying: "You go, me go, too." Fortunate- 
ly, both were drifted ashore. 

The next death occurred on May 19th, that of Ellis, a strong, 
active man, he being the first after a respite of six weeks, to 
succumb to starvation. Ralston, who had been an efficient ob- 
server and field-man, followed on the 23d, and Whisler, anoth- 
er faithful fellow, on the 24th. 

Three days later Israel, the young astronomer, a graduate 
of Ann Arbor University, and a most cheerful and helpful asso- 
ciate in the scientific work, was added to the long list of silent 
comrades. In following his custom of reading the burial ser- 
vice at the death of each man. Lieutenant Greely, in the case 
of Israel, who was a Jew, omitted every portion which could 
be distasteful to his people. In spite of Israel's weak physique, 
he had borne the hard struggle long and nobly. 

Summer opened with a howling gale and driving snow, and 
unless relief came speedily the remaining fourteen must soon 
pass away. Lieutenant Kislingbury, an active, hard-working- 
officer, who had exerted himself manfully during the boat re- 
treat and at Sabine, died on the 1st of June. As the sad end 
approached he sang the doxology and called for water 

Salor, an honest, energetic man, was the next to go, and died 
on the 3d. 

But the saddest of all these tragic ends to life is now to be 
noted. Private Henry, having been repeatedly caught stealing 
food belonging to others, and failing to keep his promises at 
reformation, was shot as the only means of allowing all a fair 
and just chance for life. This occurred on June 6th, and within 



424 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

five hours of bis execution Bender and Dr. Pavy passed quietly 
beyond. Bender was an industrious, ingenious man and had 
done good service both at Conger and at Sabine. Dr. Pavy, 
despite his serious defects of mood and earlier "Bohemian life," 
tending to mar the harmony of the party, had shown restless 
energy and fine ability both as an explorer and a medical 
expert. 

Nearly a week later, on the 12th, Gardiner, who appeared 
to have lived for the previous two months mainly by wall- 
power, died of inflammation of the bowels and starvation. As 
the end approached he held in his hands an ambroty^pe of his 
wife and mother, and at the very last exclaimed, "Mother! 
Wife!" He was a young man of excellent habits, fine mind, 
and ambitious application, and was beloved by his companions. 
Of deep religious principles, he had denied himself to take with 
him on the retreat his Bible. 

To such an extremity were t*he party now reduced that on 
the next day Lieutenant Greely was obliged to issue to the sur- 
vivors his own sealskin jacket and the dirty, oil-tanned cover- 
ing to his sleeping-bag as food. 

On the 18th, Schneider, who had rendered good services as 
clerk and in training the pupjjies born at Conger, thereby con- 
tributing largely toward the success of the geographical work, 
joined the invisible host. Meanwhile, 

EFFORTS AT RESCUE 

were being made. The "Bear" and the "Thetis," the best ves- 
sels in the Scotch whaling-fleet, had been purchased hj the 
government and the gracious Queen of England having also 
presented to the government the "Alert," the flag-ship of Nares, 
these were placed in charge of Commander W. S. Schlep', U. S. 
N., and arrived in the vicinity of Disco about the middle of 
May, 1884. On board the "Thetis" were Engineer Melville and 
the Chinese steward, Tong Sing, of the "Jeannette" party. At 
Disco Commander Schley and Mr. Melville paid their respects 
to the accommodating Inspector Andersen and Governor Pet- 
ersen. Here, too, Melville met his old ship-mate, Hans Chris- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 425 

tian, of the Kane, Hayes, Hall and Nares expeditions, who, it 
will be recalled, had been returned to Greenland on board the 
"Tigress" after his rescue from the ice-floe. He had several 
full-grown children, but; both Charley Polaris, born on the ice- 
floe, and his mother were dead. 

Through the ice of Melville's and Baffin's bays a lively race 
was had with the Scotch whalers, who were eager to gain the 
reward of $25,000 offered by Congress for the rescue of Lieu- 
tenant Greely's party. 

Leading in the race, the "Thetis" and the "Bear" reached 
Littleton Island, whence, failing to find traces of the Greely 
party, the^^ directed their course across the narrow channel to 
Cape Sabine, near which, on Brevoort Island, in. a cairn, were 
discovered various papers, instruments, and a record left by 
Lieutenant Lockwood stating that the party had gone "into 
camp four and a half miles west of Cape Sabine, or about mid- 
way between that point and Cocked Hat Island. Twenty-five 
men, all well." 

WITH A CHEER 

the rescuers sought the desolate encampment with which pre- 
ceding pages have acquainted the reader. Although a terrific 
gale was raging at the time, the shrill whistle of the "Thetis" 
had been heard by the survivors at Camp Clay, and they were 
between hope and despair lest the sound had been a false one, 
when the searchers came upon them. Lieutenant Greely was 
resting on hands and knees and peering through the opening 
to the summer tent, and when asked if he were there, replied : 
"Yes — seven of us left — here we are — dying — like men. Did 
what I came to do — beat the best record." In greeting Mr. 
Melville, Lieutenant Greely told him that he was glad to see 
one of the "Jeannette" people, for he had learned a great deal 
of the history of the expedition from the scraps of paper found 
wrapped round some of the lemons left by the "Proteus" in the 
preceding year. He then introduced Mr. Melville to Sergeant 
Elison, whose hands, feet and nose were all gone. As Melville 
shook the poor fellow by a stump, he said: "So you are one 
of the officers from the 'Jeannette,' and poor De Long is dead. 



426 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

You must have liad a terrible time." That was the sympathy 
of a true hero. 

Higher on the beach ten bodies were buried in a row. Hen- 
rj^'s had not yet been interred. Six had been deposited in the 
tide-crack and were irrecoverable and that of Jens was in the 
sea. 

Of the survivors poor ConnelPs face was already fi^ed in 
death and he scarcely breathed. He had eaten the last of his 
food three days previous and was calmly waiting to die. Im- 
mediately he was wrapped in blankets dipped in hot water and 
a few drops of brandy placed in his mouth and life was grad- 
ually restored. Being of a. lively disposition, he remarked a 
few days later: ''Well, boys, it was a pretty close squeeze for 
me. Death had me by the heels, and you pulled me out by the 
back of the neck." 

The survivors. Lieutenant Greely, Sergeant Brainard, Cor- 
poral Elison, and Privates Biederbick, Connell, Frederick and 
Long, and eleven corpses having been taken aboard, the relief 
vessels started on the homeward voyage. Elison died during 
a second amputation, on the 8th of July, at Disco. 

On the 2d of August, a most beautiful day, the "Thetis," 
"Bear," and "Alert" entered the harbor of Portsmouth, N. H. 
The shores were lined with people, and the harbor was filled 
with steamers, sail-boats and small craft of every description, 
all appropriately dressed with flags and streamers. As the 
relief vessels passed the ships of war the crews of the latter 
swarmed in the rigging and gave them 

CHEER UPON CHEER, 

and as the anchor was cast, the band on the flag-ship played 
"Home Again," and again the harbor and enclosing shores re- 
sounded with cheer after cheer. At the instant the "Thetis" 
came to rest Mrs. Greely went aboard, and there, in the quiet- 
ness of the cabin, she was restored to her husband and a na- 
tion's hero. 

Of the dead, the remains of those brought back were buried 
in the various States to which thev belonged. Lieutenant Kis- 



OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 



427 



lingbury rests at Rochester, N. Y., and Lieutenant Lockwood 
in the beautiful cemetery of the Naval Academy at Annapolis. 
"The funeral services of the latter were held from the church of 
St. Anne, where he had been baptized, confirmed, and received 
his first communion. At the time of his death he was but thir- 
ty-one 3^ears and six months of age. Not only is his resting- 
place marked by a tomb appropriately inscribed, but a tablet 
erected in the post chapel at Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, where 
his memory will 'ever be cherished, bears the following inscrip- 
tion: 

In Memoriam 

JAMES B. LOCKWOOD, 

First Lieutenant Twenty-Third Infantry, 

A Member of the 

Greely Polar Expedition, 

Died at Cape Sabine, Grinnell Land, 

April 9, 1884. 




wmeiELD BCOTT GCIiLBT. naV. 



428 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



CHAPTER XLI. 

HANSEN'S FIRST TRIUMPH AS AN EXPLORER.— LIFE AND 
CUSTOMS OF THE ESKIMOS. 

Of all undertakings in the great white world the first jour- 
ney across Greenland by the intrepid Scandinavian, Dr. F. 
Nansen, scholar and explorer, seems the most novel, and 
prompts our hearty admiration. 

Ever since the investigations of the learned Dr. Kink, scien- 
tist, writer and missionary among the Eskimos of Danish 
Greenland, during the middle portion of the present century, 
the great inland ice, or ice-cap, of Greenland, has excited the 
interest of the scientific world. 

Following the efforts of Dr. Rink, we find among the devo- 
tees of science who ventured upon its untrodden tract the 
names of Messrs. Whymper and Brow^n, glacialists, who 
touched its western edge in 1867; Baron Nordenskiold, in 1870; 
Whymper, in 1872; Hellag, geologist, in 1875, and Nordenskiold 
again in 1883, at which time he advanced a distance of seventy- 
three miles upon the interior ice. Three years later, Mr. R. E. 
Peary, Civil Engineer in the United States Navy, in company 
with Mr. Maigaard, a Danish official of South Greenland, like- 
wise journeyed with sledge and snow-shoe into the interior. 
This was the beginning of Mr. Peary's long-continued work in 
Greenland. 

About this time, too. Dr. Nansen began his investigations 
of the ice off the opposite, or east, coast of Greenland. Return- 
ing to his country he made public a plan to cross South Green- 
land, from shore to shore. This, he himself says, was "consid- 
ered to be the scheme of a lunatic." Having appealed to the 
government for the modest sum of |1,331 with which to defray 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREiAT WHITE WORLD. 429 

the expenses of the undertaking, the request was politely re- 
jected. His mad perseverance, however, brought him a friend 
and benefactor in the person of Mr. August Gemel, a wealthy 
Dane, who became his financial backer. 

In Nansen's narrative of the journey which we are about 
to relate, he does not fail to pay just tribute to his friend. He 
heartily thanks also the 

"COMMITTEE OF STUDENTS' UNION," 

besides a large number of his countrymen who contributed to 
defray the expenses of the expedition. Nor does he neolect to 
acknowledge gratefully ofticial courtesies wherever bestowed 
as well as the self-denying acts of the men accompanying him. 

Turning now to the ice off the southeast coast of Greenland 
we there see, on the 17th of July, 1888, a small company of men 
drifting southward with the ice. They are Dr. Nansen, his 
countrymen, Sverdrup, Dietrichsen, Kristiansen, and the two 
Lapps, Ravna and Balto. They are about nine miles from Ser- 
milikfiord, endeavoring to gain the shore. The sealing vessel 
"Jason," Captain Jakobsen, has just left them after having 
taken them as near the coast as the ice will permit. The ship 
is soon lost to view as she turns to seek the sealing grounds, 
and, later, to direct her course homeward. 

Now following the fortunes of the Nansen party we find 
that they continued to drift southward. On the 19th a con- 
siderable rain fell upon them. The Lapps — old Ravna and 
young Balto — began to lament their condition, then so differ- 
ent from that of caring for their reindeer herds in the far-away 
Lapland forests. Balto zealously read from his New Testa- 
ment, while Ravna listened attentively. 

On the next day an observation showed the party to be in 
latitude 65° 8' north, longitude 38° 20' west — a position between 
thirty and thirty-five miles from the mouth of the Sermilikfiord. 

Ten days later a landing was effected. Here they were 

GREATLY SURPRISED 

to meet two young Eskimos in their kyaks. They were still 
more greatly surprised to observe them wearing garments in 

28 



430 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

part at least of European manufacture. One of them wore a 
jacket of blue cotton stuff spotted with white, and a low- 
crowned, broad and flat-rimmed hat formed by means of a 
w^ooden ring covered with blue cotton stuff, the crown being 
marked with a large red cross. The two youths were members 
of a large settlement w^ho W' ere living in their summer tents, or 
tu-picks, of dried seal-skins, at this point of Kioge Bay. They 
were very hospitable and assisted the Europeans in carrying 
ashore their effects. Upon visiting their tents Dr. Nansen was 
tendered the usual Eskimo greeting, namely, that of rubbing 
noses. An old woman showed him a bit of 

DUTCH SCREW TOBACCO, 

while a man displayed a knife having a long handle of bone. 
These articles were doubtless obtained in barter from the Dan- 
ish-Eskimo settlements in the vicinity of Cape Farewell. 

At once Dr. Nansen began to transport his supplies up the 
coast-slope to the edge of the great inland ice, reaching, on the 
10th of August, his last encampment on the east coast. 

A week later the courageous men were fairly under way 
on the great white wilderness, w hich stretched out before them 
in one unbroken sheet of whiteness to Godthaab, on the west 
coast. 

During halts for rest the men sheltered themselves with- 
in a tent, where they read the few scientific books carried with 
them, told stories, and wrote in their diaries. The Lapps gave 
assiduous attention to the New Testament and to their journals. 

Each man was allowed 2.2 pounds of food per diem, as 
foUow^s : 

Breakfast — Chocolate made with melted snow or tea, bis- 
cuit, liver pate, pemmican. 

Dinner — Lemonade poured over some snow, oat-meal bis- 
cuit, liver, pemmican. 

Afternoon lunch — Biscuit, liver, pemmican. 

Supper — ^Pea, bean or lentil soup, biscuit, pemmican. Each 
man was allowed one-half pound of butter a week. 

The use of spirituous liquors and of chewing tobacco was 



OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 431 

in no wise tolerated. Dr. Nansen relaxed his usually rigorous 
regulations and, allowed the men— especially the Lapps— an 
occasional pipe. 

The 12th of September found the party traveling at an ele- 
vation of 9,000 feet and only seventy-five miles from the west 
coast. Notwithstanding this intelligence Ravna broke out 
with : 

"I am an old Lapp, and 

"A SILLY OLD FOOL, 

too; I don't believe we shall ever get to the coast!" 

To which Balto added: 

"But how on earth can any one tell how far it is from one 
side to the other when no one has ever been across?" 

At length, on the 17th, the hearts of all were gladdened at 
the appearance of a solitary snow-bunting as it came twittering 
to them from the near-approaching laud. It was the first and 
only thing of life that they had met since leaving the east coast. 

On the next day advantage was taken of the down-grade 
and the favoring wind by rigging the 

SLEDGES WITH SAILS. 

To the advance sledge Dr. Nansen and Kristiansen har- 
nessed themselves, while Sverdrup made ready to direct its 
course. All being arranged, the sail was hoisted and the sledge 
sprang forward, soon overtaking and knocking down both Dr. 
Nansen and Kristiansen. Fortunately the sledge was again 
brought to a standstill and a new disposition of men effected, 
this time Dr. Nansen and Kristiansen clinging to the sides of 
the load, while Sverdrup, seated in front, managed the steer- 
ing apparatus. A second time the craft went with the wind, 
much too rapidly for Kristiansen, who soon relaxed his hold 
and was left far behind. Not less unfortunate was Dr. Nan- 
sen, for, his long Norwegian snow-shoe, or ski, catching in a 
drift of hardened snow, over he went ski and all, while on sped 
the runaway sledge, its pilot unaware of mishap to its other 
passengers. Moreover, all along its wild course lay various 



432 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

articles, notablj^ the tins of precious pemmican, which had been 
shaken from their unstable position. These, Dr. Nansen and 
Kristiansen were picking up and carrying along in pursuit 
of the sledge when they were overtaken by the rear sledge, 
likewise rigged but more fortunately managed, by Dietrichsen 
and the two Lapps. They, too, however, had lost from their 
sledge some of the pemmican, thus necessitating a dela^^ while 
it was being restored. Meanwhile Sverdrup had discovered 
the absence of his passengers and brought his craft to a stand- 
still, and awaited their arrival with the rear sledge. 

Experience soon maintained control of these strange affairs 
and fine sailing was accordingly met with. 

Suddenly, on the 19th, Balto, looking ahead, shouted to Die- 
trichsen, 

"I CAN SEE LAND!" 

It was indeed land, and at the next meal their arrival w^ithin 
view of it was "celebrated with the best the^^ had," viz., jam, 
American biscuits, and butter. They had likewise celebrated 
their start upon the journey on the east coast and their arrival 
at the highest elevation of the ice cap. 

Two days later thej^ enjoyed from the west coast copious 
draughts of water. "It tasted," writes Balto, "just like fresh, 
sweet milk, for we had not had an^^ water for a whole month." 

Having now arrived upon the west coast, it was necessary 
to construct a boat in order to proceed to Godthaab. This was 
accomplished by using pieces of bamboo, ski-material, the can- 
vas composing the tent-flooring, and small willows found grow- 
ing near the water. On the 29th this odd craft was launched 
upon Am-er-al-ik-fi-ord. 

Here they were annoyed by black flies as they had been by 
mosquitoes on the east coast. 

October 3d found them in the hospitable settlement of Godt- 
haab, to whose inhabitants their sudden appearance seemed 
little short of a miracle. Upon Dr. Nansen's informing the 
officials who he was, one of them, a Mr. Baumann, exclaimed: 
"Oh, allow me to congratulate you on taking your doctor's 
degree!" 




The Author. 

Mr. Bridgman. 
Professor Chamberlin's "View" of a Greenland Glacier, with 
Terminal Moraine. 
(See Chapters 1. ami XLII.) 




Glacier and Lateral Moraine. 
(See Chapters 1. and XLII.) 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 433 

This was the first intelligence received by Nansen that he 
had been thus honored in his absence from home by another 
title of scholarship). 

All vessels having taken their departure from the port for 
the season, the new-comers were obliged to spend the ensuing 
winter 

AT GODTHAAB. 

During these months Dr. Nansen observed much concerning 
the life and customs of the Eskimos of the region. He observed 
that the language of the JSouth Greeulanders is greatly like 
that of the Alaskans, although used 3,000 miles apart, and 
remarks that his friend. Captain Jakobseu, of the "Jason," had 
conversed with the Alaskans, using the language of the Green- 
land Eskimos. 

Nansen's observations are enhanced in value by recalling 
those of Dr. Rink, who traces the implements used by the 
Greenland natives to an American origin, and asserts that the 
language, legends, and customs of the South Greenland Es- 
kimos recall those of the American Indians. 

It is also to be noted that modern travelers and writers 
have remarked the resemblance of the American Eskimo to the 
Asiatic races of the Polar regions, in the use of the dog. 

Concerning the use of the kyak, Dr. Nansen observes that 
in 1888, there occurred in South Greenland 162 deaths, ninet}' 
of which were males, twenty-four resulting from the employ- 
ment of the kyak. 

In 1889 there were 272 deaths, 152 being males, and twenty- 
four occurring in kyaks; and this from a population of 5,G14, 
2,591 of which were males. 

When at sea in these skin canoes, unprovided with keel 
and ballast as they are, the kyakers exercise great coolness, 
for their voyages then become veritable dances with the waves 
and with death. During these trips they practice great absti- 
nence, taking with them little to eat and nothing to drink. 

Formerly, they hunted the whale in the oo-mi-aks, or 
women's boats, the hunters being arrayed in their best attire, 



434 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

"for," explains an early missionary, E-ge-de, "the whale cannot 
endure nncleanliness and will otherwise avoid them." 

During the summer the natives change their abodes from 
place to place in search of better hunting localities. 

THE FOOD OF THE ESKIMO 

is essentially meat, eaten, for the most part, raw, and much of 
the time frozen. Sometimes, however, it is boiled or eaten 
in the dried state. Fermented meat, too, especially rotten 
seal's head, is eaten with relish. The blubber of seals and 
whales, with its SAveetish, cream taste, is not to be despised 
even bj^ white men sojourning in the north world. 

Mat-ak, the thick skin of whales and porpoises, when eaten 
with a layer of blubber attached, tastes much like nuts and 
oysters mixed. When cooked, mat-ak becomes like jelly in 
consistency, the taste of nuts and oysters disappearing. Raw 
halibut-skin is also deemed palatable. Seal-skin with blubber 
and hairs attached is not despised. Even dogs and foxes are 
made to contribute to the larder in times of scarcity. In gen- 
eral, the lean meats are not so highly esteemed as are the fats, 
and the sea-birds are more sought for than the celebrated 
ptarmigans — the most delicious of land-birds. The eyes of the 
feathered tribes are eaten as choice morsels, while their viscera* 
furnish a very desirable variation to the solid, heat-producing 
meats. Furthermore, this dietary change is supplemented 
with the contents of the reindeer's stomach — an aromatic 
sauce which, together with fermented milk, is often served 
with blubber and crowberries. Not uncommon desserts con- 
sist of sea-weeds, bilberries, crowberries, sorrels, dandelion, 
salads, and angelica stalks served in train oil. 

The entrails of seals and the skins of birds' legs when filled 
with broken birds' eggs or the marrow extracted from bones 
form, when frozen, a sort of candy-relish. In short, there is 
known to the writer but one flesh item which the Eskimo" will 
not eat, and that is the much-despised crow, or raven. Even 
his dogs will not deign to taste its flesh. This the writer 
knows from experiment, having shot and offered to his Eskimo 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 435 

dogs several of these birds, which were instantly seized by 
the hungry dogs, but as quickly rejected as soon as the dogs 
had merely smelled of them. 

Among the uncivilized Eskimos dishes are not used in eat- 
ing. Among the South Greenlanders, however, a single dish 
containing the food is placed in the middle of the floor, and from 
this the members of the household help themselves, using their 
iiugers. The missionaries and Danish officials, however, have 
introduced many beneficial changes into their domestic regula- 
tions. Frequently such attempts are accompanied with much 
amusement, as the following illustrates: 

A Danish lady, observing some Eskimo girls learning for 
the first time the use of a tub resting upon th~e floor, noticed 
that they stood about the article in question, bending to the 
clothes in a very awkward and uncomfortable position. The 
lady accordingly caused some stools to be brought in as a 
rest for the tub. The girls, however, misunderstanding the 
kind intention, stepped upon the chairs and began to renew 
their labors from the still more elevated position. 

A prevailing vice among the South Greenlanders is that 
of coffee-drinking, the older ones drinking each two large bowls 
four or five times a day. Dizziness is accordingly common 
among them. The young men are not allowed to use it to 
excess. 

On the west coast, tobacco is both smoked and chewed; on 
the east coast, snuff is used instead. This is also used among 
the women of the west coast. 

A curious custom of providing chewing tobacco is to place 
within the bowl a half pipe of moist smoking tobacco, and on 
top of this a half pipe of dry tobacco; then to smoke the dr^'- 
half, allowing the moist half to absorb the nicotine, knock 
out the ashes, thus preparing the residue for the purpose stated. 

Among the South Greenlanders the use of intoxicants is 
carefully guarded by the ofiicials. The employes of the Danish 
company are allowed, however, a "morning dram." The liquor 
thus obtained was at first kept in common till a sufficient quan- 
tity had been laid by, when a general and partnership drunk 



436 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

was indulged in. This is no longer tolerated. It should not 
be forgotten that the Eskimo in his primitive state is a very 
temiDerate being, disdaining the use of both narcotics and stim- 
ulants. In 

CHARACTER AND SOCIAL CONDITION 

many points are worthy of emulation by more illustrious races. 

Of all God's creatures he is gifted with the best disposition. 
Good humor, peaceableness and evenness of temper character- 
ize him. No terms of abuse and contumely escape his lips. 
Loth to contradict, he words his remonstrances in mild forms. 
He is chary to tell unpleasant truths or to reveal disagreeable 
facts, and seldom desires to reclaim stolen property. With the 
meekness of Luke he would say: ''Give to every man that ask- 
eth of thee; and of him that taketh away thy goods ask them 
not again." Hapi)y being he! and yet a most careless one. 
Oft-times improvident of the future, he is yet cut to the heart 
when his children die for lack of food. 

Socially he is law-abiding and a great respecter of property- 
rights, especially of personal property. The custom of "bor- 
rowing and lending" is looked upon with disfavor, and should 
a loaned article be lost, the borrower is not required to make 
recompense; he is supposed to have been as careful as the 
owner would have been under the same circumstances. 

He regards no title to land, yet is secure in the possession 
of his immediate hut-site and contiguous space. 

His first social law is, to help his neighbor. In the chase, 
he shares the spoils with all, and all feast together or starve 
together, as the case may be. With strangers he recognizes 
the -same law and asks no recompense. 

Kegarding the 

POSITION OF THE ESKIMO WOMAN, 

the view may not seem so bright. Primarily and primitively 
she was considered as chattel and might be exchanged, sold or 
loaned. 

In dress she has ever been permitted to attire herself much 
after the style of her liege-lord. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 437 

She it is who often constructs or assists to construct the 
hut of snow or tent of seal-skin; disposes of theliunter's game 
— even dragging or carrying it to the abode; prepares for and 
makes into garments the skins, and also sews them over the 
frame-works made ready for a new kyak. ^Preparing her 
thread from the sinew of the seal, whale, reindeer, or even 
from the gullet of the seal and of the cormorant, she is an adept 
with the needle. In South Greenland she has learned the art 
of dyeing from the Europeans, and her free-hand embroidery 
evinces great skill. 

Were it not for her multifold duties she must needs be a 
most miserable creature indeed. Although regarded as in- 
ferior to her male master, she is nevertheless regarded with 
much genuine affection. 

The birth of a son is hailed with great delight by both par- 
ents as indicating an addition of so much more family stock. 

MARRIAGE 

among the Eskimos is generally in the form of a capture. He 
loves, proposes, and is invariably rejected, notwithstanding 
she, too, may love. To say "Yes" would indicate great im- 
modesty and the suitor is therefore obliged to win by forceful 
conquest. 

The introduction of the European ceremony and the attend- 
ant ''Yes" greatly embarrassed the contracting parties. The 
formal "capture" is still in vogue in East Greenland. There 
divorce is correspondingly easy. Generally speaking, but one 
wife is allowable to each male adult. On the east coast of 
Greenland he may take two. The first chosen remains the head 
of the household. On the contrary, polyandry seldom occurs. 

Childless marriages are soon dissolved. But offspring once 
begotten, divorces are infrequent. As a rule, Eskimo mothers 
are not prolific, from two to four children occurring in each 
family. Child-birth among them is remarkably easy. For 
charity's sake, the unfortunates are killed at birth ; and for the 
same reason very old and helpless creatures are likewise dis- 
posed of or, from custom, drown themselves. 



438 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Husband aud wife live very happily together, especially 
during old age. 

The love displayed by the parents towards their offspring 
amounts almost to idolization and mothers allow them nour- 
ishment at the breast till three or four years of age. 

Quarrels seldom occur among them, and they are early 
trained to the use of the implements of the chase, the kyak, the 
sledge, etc. Their earliest toys are calculated to afford useful 
instruction. They are made to bear the names of birds, fish, 
other animals, and inanimate objects — such as Ock-pud-a-ho 
(the little auk), Ah-mou (the wolf), Kes-shu (wood), Ah-ning-ah- 
nah (the moon, for the lunatic), etc. 

IN MORALS 

the Eskimo is naturally honest. Intercourse with Europeans 
has, however, served to lessen his strength of character in this 
respect. Still, he so scrupuloush^ regards the possession of 
property by another that drift-wood once placed above the 
high-water mark remains undisturbed, notwithstanding anoth- 
er might later happen upon the same quantity. 

Murder seldom happens. In cases of love affairs, however, 
this crime would appear to be of too frequent occurrence. The 
attack is then made secretl}^ It is probably fortunate that the 
use of poisons is unknown to the race. 

Notwithstanding the innate modesty of the Eskimo women, 
cases of shameless immorality are met with. This has been 
occasioned by contact with conscienceless sailors of European 
and American ships. Wherever these ships may touch, there 
disease lurks in foulest form. From our own Alaska to still 
more remote North Greenland there may be heard one continu- 
ous cry of agon}^ Ignorant of the occasions of disease and 
without medicinal remedies, habit and custom continue its 
painful propagation. Well may we inquire, will the ear of en- 
lightened humanity suffer this to continue when the work of 
even a few physicians would restore them to health and hardi- 
hood? 

Among the South Greenland natives, marriage between first 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 439 

cousins is prohibited. The contracting parties must also be, 
if possible, of separate villages. There, too, on the west coast, 
the marital relation of the female is also indicated by the 
manner in which she ornaments her top-knot of hair. If she 
be unmarried, the knot is wound by means of a red ribbon; if 
married, blue; if a widow, black; if an unnatural mother, 
green. 

Among the uncivilized tribes the infants are washed by a 
tender application of the mother-tongue. Soft, chewed bird- 
skins are also used in the process. 

The parents seldom if ever resort to corporal punishments. 

In settling disputes the judicial proceedings are peculiar. 
The opponents, standing erect and face to face, deal with right 
fists clenched alternate blows upon the same spot of the muscle 
of the upper left arm near the shoulder-joint, till the weaker, 
and therefore the loser of the suit, yields. Another form is 
known as the drum-dance. Standing as before, the contestants 
taunt each other, the assembled populace laughing at their 
reciprocal jibes and jeers till one or the other is outwitted 
and laughed from the field. 

The mental gifts of the Eskimos are surprisingly developed. 
The Christian converts among them learn to read, write, cipher, 
and draw with great ease and skill. As already observed, they 
are natural topographers, and notwithstanding remarkable 
artistic ability and ingenuity, hieroglyphics have never been 
used by them. 

In counting they do not appear to go beyond one hundred, 
and all numbers are then designated by so many finger-groups 
of five each. 

In music his talent is not lacking, and although expressed 
primitively by means of a sort of rude tambourine, or key-eu- 
tick, accompanied by the monotonous "ha-ya" of the natural 
voice, they have readily learned from the Europeans the use of 
the violin and the guitar. 

From Dr. Rink we have learned much of their fairy tales 
and legends, and also that they possess a poetry of their own. 



440 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

The Icimpoons of the drum-dance are said to be not devoid of 
this element. 

AN ESKIMO NEWSPAPER, 

was established in South Greenland, in 1861, by Dr. Rink. It 
bears the imposing title of "A-tu-ag-agdliu-tit," or translated. 
Things that-should-be-known. It is printed at Godthaab, by 
Lars Moller, a native Eskimo, but educated in Copenhagen. 
He not only draws, but also lithographs his own illustrations 
for it. It is published monthh' and contains translations 
from the Danish, the usual "locals," and news of the chase, etc. 
Young Moller is also something of a taxidermist, and the 
writer recalls with pleasure a visit to his sanctum and "bird- 
shop" in the autumn of 1894, and was pleased to receive from 
him two fine Greenland eagle-skins ready for mounting, and 
given in exchange for an American overcoat. 

IN RELIGION, 

the Eskimos appear to believe that man is endowed with two 
souls — one a shadow, the other a breath. Everything is per- 
sonified. The Greenlander recognizes both the body and the 
soul. As the body may be exchanged and broken, so may the 
soul. The name of a person is also believed to be distinct and 
may migrate from the body through different animals, etc. 
The first child born after the death of a person is called by the 
name borne by the deceased. Yet, should one of two persons 
bearing the same name die, the survivor immediately assumes 
a new one, it being believed that there is a spiritual affinity 
between the same names, and that they should not be sepa- 
rated. 

They dislike not only to touch the bodies, but also to speak 
the names of the dead. Hence it is not through a desire to be 
cruel but through religious fear that those approaching death 
are often carried to the grave before life is extinct. 

It has also been observed that the East Greenlanders fear 
to speak their own names. The same custom prevails among 
the natives of Xorth Greenland. When asked individually to 
give their names, they will almost invariably respond by 
requesting a companion to answer for them. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 



441 



BelieviDg iu the reward of the just and the piinishmeut of 
the wicked the iiiiuiortal good are sent to dwell iu the earth 
below the water. Still another place for the fortunate is on 
the bank of a lake situated between the earth and the sky. 
The overflowing of this lake, it is saidy causes the rain upon 
the earth. 

The auroral lights they believe to be the souls of the dead 
^either at play or engaged in the festivities of the dance. 

Even the inferior animals are supposed to be possessed of 
souls, and that their dogs should thus be spiritualized evinces 
the high regard in which these faithful creatures are held. 

At death the bodies are either cast into the sea, or placed 
upon a bare rock, or within a slight excavation and enclosed 
with a covered rock cairn. The existence of a marine deity is 
also believed in. 

The legends which endeavor to account for the origin of 
man seem to be connected with those of remote nations. By 
some of these it is asserted that man grew from the ground, and 
then mated with a mound of earth. 




THE "POLABIS" PilSSINO F1T4<;L4B£NCE KOCK, / 



442, THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



CHAPTER XLII. 

WITH LIEUTENANT PEARY.— THE AUTHOR'S PLANS FOR 

POLAR RESEARCH.— COMRADE ASTRUP'S TRIP 

TO MELVILLE BAY. 

Just seven years after the return of the survivors of the 
Lady Franklin Bay Expedition the steam-whaler ''Kite," of St. 
John's, Newfoundland, set sail from New York with the mem- 
bers of the expedition of the Philadelphia Academy of Natural 
Sciences. These were, Robert E. Peary, Civil Engineer, United 
States Navy, Mrs. Peary, Dr. F. A. Cook, and Messrs. Langdon 
Gibson, Eivind Astrup, John T. Verlioeff, and Matthew Hen- 
son, Mr. Peary's colored servant. 

Headquarters having been established at Red Cliff, on Mc- 
Cormick's Bay, the "Kite" returned to St. John's, but revisited 
Mr. Peary's camp a j'ear later and restored his party to civiliza- 
tion after a most enjoyable and successful residence of twelve 
months just below latitude 78°, in Northwest Greenland. The 
only occurrence to mar the pleasure of the trip was the sudden 
disappearance of Mr. Verhoeff on the eve of the final departure 
of the "Kite" on her homeward voyage. Diligent search for the 
unfortunate 3^oung man left not the least doubt in the minds of 
all, who looked long and anxiously for him, that he lost his 
life in some frightful crevasse of a glacier which he had evi- 
dently attempted to cross alone. 

The geographical work accomplished by the expedition dur- 
ing its brief absence forms one of the most remarkable tri-" 
umphs of Arctic daring. From about the 1st of May to the 
4th of July, 1892, Mr. Peary and a single companion, Mr. Eivind 
Astrup, were engaged in crossing the great inland ice cap of 
North Greenland. Traveling at an elevation of from 4,000 to 
9,000 feet, a journey of GOO miles brought them to a considera- 
ble opening on the northeast coast of Greenland, in latitude 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 443 

al° 37' north, longitude 34° west. This, in commemoration of 
the day of its discovery, July 4th, Mr. Peary named Independ- 
ence Bay. After recuperating upon the flesh of musk-cattle 
killed in the vicinitj^, the while enjoying the sight of countless 
flowers, including the poppy and the dandelion, the song of 
birds and even the busy buzzing of the bumblebee, the long re- 
turn march was begun, and Ked Cliff again reached on the 
6th of August. Here the "Kite" was in waiting, and, as before 
stated, returned in safety with the party to the United States. 

Mr. Peary at once set about reorganizing an expedition for 
the purpose of extending the work from Independence Bay, 
and after devoting a year to preparation, in part by means of 
a series of lectures, he was enabled to renew the work from 
Anniversary Lodge, at the head of Bowdoin Bay, North Green- 
land, in the late summer of 4893, the sledge-journey toward 
Independence Bay being undertaken about the first of March 
of the following year. Of this expedition, although the writer 
was a member, it is not his purpose to treat at great length in 
this volume. Should Lieutenant Peary publish a narrative, it 
will doubtless be one of the most valuable contributions to re- 
search in Greenland ever issued and the success of the work 
undertaken should properly be set forth, in the first instance, 
by Mr. Peary's own pen. We shall very properly await the ac- 
complishment of future work before attempting a second and 
separate volume. The subjoined article, taken from a recent 
college publication, must suffice for this chapter: 

It was on the 6th of March, 4894, a bright pinchy da,y in the 
midst of threatening weather, that the start was made on the 
"Great Inland Ice Trip." Lieutenant Peary's party was com- 
posed of eight men, Baldwin, Entrikin, Dr. Vincent, Astrup, 
Davidson, Clark, Lee, and Stokes. They took with them five 
Eskimos, Oo-too-ni-ah, Pan-ick-pa, Kes-suh, Ing-op-i-doo, and 
Koo-loo-ting-wah, about ninety dogs and such articles of equip- 
age as were needed in that campaign against the fierce ele- 
ments of the North. On the previous day all the party, except 
Lieutenant Peary and Astrup, accompanied by the Eskimos of 
the village, had gone with four sledge-loads to the moraine and 



444 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

had returned to Anniversary Lodge in the evening. Accord- 
ing to the plan, the party was to push forward a day's march 
from Moraine Camp, while the Lieutenant would come up in 
the morning, bringing hot tea for the men in order to save the 
alcohol to be used as fuel for melting snow. Pursuant to this 
end, earliest dawn saw Lieutenant Peary with one man, Ing- 
op-i-doo and Oo-too-ni-ah, carrjdng several gallons of hot tea in 
canteens, and in a large tin chart case, all tucked in a large 
reindeer robe to keep the tea from freezing. 

Baldwin, Astrup and Entrikin met the party at the edge of 
the camp, and although closely wrapped in their excellent furs, 
they had evidently felt the effect of the searching winds on this 
their 

FIRST NIGHT ON THE ICE-CAP 

as was shown by the pinched and cerulean appearance of what 
could be seen of their faces. The men had been troubled con- 
siderably during the night by the breaking loose of their dogs, 
and this need not surprise us when we remember the bitter 
cold and the number to be cared for. A drink of hot tea, be- 
sides restoring the natural appearance of the features, con- 
tributed its full share of cheer. 

After the party had breakfasted, hitched their dogs and 
taken up their line of march. Lieutenant Peary, accompanied 
by one Eskimo companion, Ing-op-i-doo, turned back to Anni- 
versary Lodge. "After going a short distance," says the Lieu- 
tenant, "I stopped to have another look at the caravan, and 
the memory of the scene, with the memory of a subsequent one, 
when further on, will remain long with me. It was a sublime 
spectacle to see that company of thirteen men, a dozen sledges, 
and over ninety dogs, climbing the alabaster slopes of the in- 
finite ice-cap, their destination the frozen fastnesses of the 
North. Never before had such a sight been seen on the great 
desolate ice; never, I thought to myself, would the scene be 
repeated." 

Taking his final departure from the Lodge on the 8th, Lieu- 
tenant Peary pushed forward to join his men. on their perilous 
journey through the frozen world. The snow igloo of the pre- 



OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 445 

vious night's camp was passed about two miles beyond Pigeon 
Camp and about 4:30 p. m. he caught sight of the party far in 
the distance wending their way to the summit of a snow 
hilIocli[. At G o'cloclv the leader came up to his devoted band 
just as they had encamped. We will allow him to describe 
this camp in his own words: ''The western sky was a blaze of 
crimson and gold, the eastern dark with the purple shades of 
night. The camp, itself, with the numerous dogs in groups of 
live and six; the harnesses and other items of sledge equip- 
ment supported upon tripods formed by the ski (Norwegian 
snow shoes); the sledges scattered here and there; the snow 
igloo; Astrup's little silk tent; the sleeping bags with their 
tent-like protections, and many figures moving about hither 
and thither — all projected against the background of the glow- 
ing west, combined to form a scene which reminds me very 
strongly of an Indian encampment on the prairie at sunset." 

As this was the spot on which Lee had camped before he 
was lost in the previous fall, a snow igloo which his Eskimo 
companions had made was used by Astrup as a cook-house. 
Soon he had prepared the pea-soup and tea and the men having 
relished a cup-fuil of each, together with their rations of pem- 
niican and biscuit, crawlecl into their sleeping bags and 
passed the night. The heroic leader pulled on his deerskin 
boots and trousers and on a 

CUSHION OF SNOW 

slept in the lee of one of the sledges. Aurora had scarcely 
ushered in the new day before Astrup was again preparing tea 
and at 10 o'clock Lieutenant Peary, Lee' and Oo-too-ni-ah set 
out for the cache, leaving the main party to follow later. On 
the way Lee recognized an object in the distance as the tent 
from which he had strayed at the time above alluded to. He 
was detailed to bring it on his sledge, while the other two held 
on to their way. They espied the cache when yet two miles 
away, and on reaching it found that since the preceding Octo- 
ber snow had drifted about it to the depth of four feet and 
had also formed a drift upon its top. This could be seen in 

29 



446 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE: 

the distance without the assistance of the bamboo pole that had 
been erected to mark the spot. The Eskimo set about building 
an igloo and had it completed by the time the party arrived. 

No sooner had all the dogs been cared for than all the hus- 
kies (Eskimos) began a second igloo in such a position that it 
coukl be readily united to the first. The tent which Lee had 
brought up and the little kitchen tent were placed in line on 
either side of the igloos. Owing to the fact that most of the 
sledges had suffered more or less on the moraine and thence 
over rough hard sastrugi (ridges of snow), it was necessary to 
lay by at the cache several days in order that they might be 
repaired and that the work of digging out the cache, parcelling 
the sledge loads, and bagging the pemmican might be attended 
to. Accordingl}^ a 

SNOW FIRE-PLACE, 

if such an anomaly can be imagined, was built in each igloo, 
one for the alcohol cooker and the other for wood, of which 
there was quite a supply in the shape of broken boxes. 

The first night at this camp Dr. Vincent, Astrup, Stokes and 
Swain passed in the inner igloo; Lee and the Eskimos took up 
their abode in the outer; Entrikin, Bakhviu, Clark and David- 
son in their sleeping bags, and the Lieutenant, in his sleeping- 
suit, had ample room on the outside. As the wind playfully 
tossed the snow, the spirits of these hardy adventurers rose 
with their surroundings and "Mary Green," a favorite song at 
the Lodge, broke the awful stillness that ordinarily knew no 
breaking save that of the moaning wind. 

At this camp the dread Pib-luck-to, or Greenland dog dis- 
ease, a malady akin to hydrophobia, began those 

AWFUL RAVAGES 

which almost exterminated the entire pack. So intense was 
the suffering of the poor dog which first fell victim to the 
scourge, that he almost gnawed off his legs. March 11th, the 
second day at the cache, was calm and clear. At the early 
hour of 4:30 a, m. Stokes, Swain and the five Eskimos returned 



OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 447 

to the Lodge. During the day the remainder of the men pre- 
pared the pemmican for transportation by sewing it in bags, 
each of which contained twelve or jiifteen eight-pound cans. 
This being done, sledge loads were assigned and everything put 
in readiness for the journey on the morrow. 

TWO MEN DISABLED. 

The northward march, as resumed on the 12th, was very 
laborious; still our heroes trudged on through the cloth-like 
snow; the ice-cap rose in one long continuous ascent before 
them, the dogs, unaccustomed to each other, were constantly 
fighting, and greatly hindered the progress; Lee suffered from 
a frozen toe and nothing but his all-conquering grit could have 
induced him to undertake the day's journey; Astrup felt all 
the symptoms of an attack of illness, such as had driven him 
from the ice-cap in the preceding September. On the 13th, 
laboring under the disadvantages of up-grade, strong wind, 
drifting snow, and the disabled condition of the two men, the 
party, after going only two miles, were compelled to halt. 
Going into camp, eight dogs that were unable to stand the 
rigorous service were killed and used as food for the others. 
It was evident that Astrup and Lee must go back. Being 
unfit to think of making the perilous journey alone, the Lieu- 
tenant himself, accompanied by Clark, undertook the task of 
seeing them safely down to the Lodge. 

All this took some time. However, on the 22d of the month, 
the party, now reduced to six men, was again under way, 
battling against a furious wind, and stinging drift, with the 
temperature at — 35°F. After going three miles the dogs ab- 
solutely refused to pull and it was necessary to turn in. En- 
trikin and Baldwin, with their double sleeping bag, took up 
part of the light protean tent, while the alcohol cooker and Mr. 
Peary appropriated the remainder. The doctor in a single bag, 
and Clark and Davidson, in a second double bag, occupied the 
little silk tent. The dogs were tethered as usual, each train 
being divided into groups, with no protection save the shaggy 



448 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

coat with which nature had provided them. Night comes 
iipou the scene and the furj increases ; the 

GREAT EQUINOCTIAL STORM 

is at hand. This was one of Lieutenant Peary's "Arctic Hells," 
so-called, we would judge, from the number of furies present, 
rather than from excessive heat. He describes it thusr "About 
5 o'clock next morning I was awakened by a sudden increase 
in the force of the wind, which now blew with such violence 
that, had not our tent been all in o-ne piece, connected with the 
lloor-cloth on which we were lying, I should have expected to 
have it blown away at any moment. 

"The drift which accompanied this storm was almo^ in- 
describable, and had the members of the party been any less 
perfectly clothed than they were it would have been impossible 
to have gone out of our shelter. As it was, however, Baldwin 
made his regular observations at the observatory sledge, about 
100 feet from the tent, and he and I took turns in carrying hot 
tea and pea-soup to the three men in the silk tent, about fifty 
feet distant. Throughout the day and the following night the 
wind steadily increased in violence, until it became impossible 
to shout so as to be heard from one tent to the other, even 
with the utmost effort of our lungs. 

PANDEMONIUM ON THE INLAND ICE. 

"On Thursday afternoon the drift forced an entrance into 
the silk tent, and in order to escape being smothered its occu- 
pants were obliged to get out as best they could and retreat to 
the larger tent. In doing this Davidson had his heel, and 
Clark a toe, two fingers and a thumb, frost-bitten. As soon 
as they were safely in our tent, Entrikin turned out of his 
bag and gave his place to Clark, 1 turned my deerskin sleeping 
trousers over to Davidson, Baldwin presented him with a pair 
of reindeer socks taken from his own feet, while the doctor 
curled himself up on the foot of the big bag. This left a small 
space between the pole and the tent opening, in which Entrikin 
and I could stand. This space was constantly decreasing in 
size from the drift, which, in spite of our best efforts, continued 



Photograph of Painting of Aurora Borealis, 

By F. W. Stokes, Philadelphia. Display observed off Godthaab, Greenland, Septem- 
ber 3, 1892. The streamers besan on the northeast horizon, and traveled rapidly, in 
double arch, clear across the heavens, to the southeast horizon, forming a grand 
and imposing display. Painting owned by A. Lawrence Rotch, Esq., Boston. 
(See Chapter XLII. ; also pages 180-1, etc.) 



Baffin's Bay Iceberg. 







0) -3 

ho 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 440 

to force itself through the fly, after the entrance of the boys. 
After a time there was only room for one of us, and we alter- 
nated in standing up, steadying ourselves by the pole, now and 
then curling up on the snoAV-drift for a few winks of sleep, and 
making tea several times during the night to warm up the boys 
and keep up their spirits. The straining and flapping of the 
tent, the deafening roar of the wind, the devilish hissing of the 
drift, the howling and screaming of the poor dogs, made a* 
pandemonium never to be forgotten. 

DOGS FROZEN IN THE SNOW. 

"Early on Friday morning, March 2.3d, the wind began to 
subside, and at 7 a. m. I was out looking upon a scene that made 
me sick at heart. Half my dogs were frozen fast in the snow, 
some by the legs, seme by the tails, and some by both. Two 
were dead and all were in a most pitiable condition, their fur 
a mass of snow and ice, driven into it by the pitiless wind. 
Several had freed themselves and had destroyed the double 
sleeping bag and many of the harnesses which had been blown 
off the tripods. Baldwin's anemometer, barograph and ther- 
mograph, which, as the result of his ingenuity and persever- 
ance, had kept on recording throughout the storm, showed that 
for thirty-four hours the average wind velocity had been over 
forty-eight miles per hour, and the average temperature about 
— 50° Fahr., with a minimum of over — 60° Fahr. When these 
figures are considered in connection with our elevation of some 
5,000 feet, the unobstructed sweep of the wind, and the well- 
known fact that ice-cap temperatures accompanied by wind 
are much more trying to animal life than the same tempera- 
tures at sea level, it is believed that the judgment will be that 
fhis storm beat the record as the most severe ever experienced 
by any Arctic partj^" 

The manner and connection in which Mr. Baldwin's name 
is mentioned, in this quotation as well as elsewhere, by his 
superior qualifications, incidentally but none the less forcibly, 
reveals the depth of his character. It was well-known in gov- 
ernmental circles that one of the chief inducementsthatled Mr. 
Baldwin to join the expedition was the opportunity for trying 



450 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

the efficiency of the instruments under liis care. Well did he 
prove them, and well did they stand the test. His unrelenting- 
perseverance and admirable ingenuity stand out all the clearer 
when we remember the circumstances under which they w^ere 
tried. So intense was the cold that merely touching the wood 
of a pencil 

BURNED THE SKIN FROM THE FINGERS. 

Consequently Mr. Baldwin was compelled at times to seize 
the pencil between his hands, which were closely muffed in 
shaggy mits, and in this bunglesome manner kept his records. 
Besides his perserverance, ingenuit}-, courage and skill, his 
power of endurance is shown in his visits to the observatory 
sledge and to the silk tent, w^hile the true greatness of his soul 
is brought out in the giving of his "reindeer socks" to a suffer- 
ing companion. 

The equinoctial, in its effects, remained even after fair 
weather had come. It took a w^hole day to dig out the sledges, 
care for the dogs, and repair the harness. Davidson's and 
Clark's frozen feet were also present as painful reminders of 
what had been, and submitted a problem for solution. David- 
son's condition admitted of no choice, and it was decided to 
send him back in care of the big-hearted doctor. Clark, al- 
though not affected to the extent that Davidson was, would 
have odds greatly against him if he hazarded the trip. The 
chances were that on exposure his feet would become worse, 
and with the party so reduced in number and equipments, it 
would be impossible to furnish him with escort or sledge later. 
Should he brave the burning cold of the Arctic or should he 
return to comparative comfort? His decision evinces a deter- 
mination well worth the name. When asked what he was 
going to do, he replied: "Oh, I guess I shall go right on." 
Here indeed we may learn a lesson worth remembering. Grit 
of this type will solve many a confronting problem. 

The next day saw the party, now consisting of 

FOUR MEN ONLY, 

headed toward the goal of their ambition. A fresh southeast- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 451 

erly wind was blowing and the thermometer registered — 46° 
Fahr. Clark, Baldwin and Entrikin succeeded admirably in 
handling their eighteen-dog teams, despite the Eskimo dog's 
peculiar disposition. Each team drew two sledges, a larger 
and a smaller, the smaller being drawn in tow, and it soon be- 
came evident that the storm had greatly impaired <the strength 
of the dogs. Consequently it was thought advisable to stop 
after going several miles. 

On the following morning the spirits of the men rose with 
the promise of a fair day, only to fall when the stinging drift 
forced them to encamp after going but three miles. The 2Tth 
of March dawned bright and cheery. The temperature had 
risen to — 30°F. and the prospects for the day were encourag- 
ing. However, they had proceeded but a short distance when 
Baldwin's sledge sprung a runner in the act of crossing one 
of the giant sas-tru-gi, or ridges of frozen snow, that extended 
over icy plains and snowy hillocks as far as eye could see. The 
defect was remedied by lashing another sledge alongside, thus 
making a three runner. The ''Long Serpent," drawn by Entri- 
kin's team, then came in for its share, and, running against a 
ragged, saw-toothed sas-tru-gus, it hung there a wreck on the 
cruel ice-fangs. To go on was out of the question. A beautiful 
day must be sacrificed in the unpleasant task of mending brok- 
en sledges. 

Under less chilling circumstances one might have enjoyed 
the treat afforded, when, after several days^of incessant storm- 
ing and drifting, 

THE SNOWY CURTAIN ROSE 

and unveiled the reigning beauties of the "Great White World." 
Huge swells of ice stretch away for miles. Immense marble- 
like sas-tru-gi, running in great parallels, point to Old Kane 
Basin as the starting-place and to Prudhoe Land as the destiny 
of the furious storm recently experienced. Pearly hummocks 
dotted the glistening surface, gently receding on the left, grad- 
ually rising on the right higher and higher in the distance 
until, fading away, they are lost in kissing the sapphire sky. 



452 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

But we who are sitting beside Vesta's clieerful glow must 
uot lose ourselves in Elysian reverie. The unrelenting cold 
urged its cruel claims, and discouragements crowded upon our 
unfortunate heroes. However, it needed only a milk punch to 
revive their drooping spirits, and after the dogs had been fed 
thej^ turned *in to dream of home and loved ones far away. On 
the morning of the 28th Clarlv set about overhauling the har- 
ness, wliile Baldwin and Entrikin repaired their sledges. This 
they did with the thermometer registering — 51° Fahr., and 
themselves exposed to a stiff breeze that drove the snow in 
anything but a pleasant manner. For the "Long Serpent" the 
episode proved to be a blessing incognito. For after being- 
repaired she was a better sledge than ever, but Entrikin froze 
his feet in the operation, and this was the beginning of the 
serious trouble that followed him throughout the remainder of 
the trip. 

Everything being in readiness, the northward march was 
resumed, although it was after G p. m. In this short journey 
that followed, a singular incident occurred, says Lieutenant 
Peary: "During this march the wind and temperature, acting 
upon the moisture of Baldwin's breath, froze his koo-le-tah 
(reindeer skin coat) so rigid that he could neither walk nor 
turn his head, and was obliged to come into camp riding on 
his sledge. Here we were obliged to assist him in moving the 
ice and snow, which had almost completel}^ closed the face 
opening of his koo-le-tah." 

The bright clear morn following revealed a smooth sur- 
face over which to travel; the temperature had risen some ten 
degrees, while dogs, sledges, and men were in prime condition 
to make a good day's journey. But scarcely had they started 
over the inviting surface, before the jealous king of the ice- 
cap hurled his snowy legions upon them. At this juncture 

ENTRIKIN'S TEAM BALKED 

and in spite of every effort on his part, in spite of all the assist- 
ance that Lieutenant Peary and Mr. Baldwin could give him, 
they absolutely refused to pull. Mr. Entrikin had the misfor- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 453 

tune of straining his back and this, in addition to his frozen 
feet, put him in a position not to be envied. Go on they coukl 
not; the only alternative was to encamp. That night there 
occurred an incident, which, had it been less serious, might 
have been quite laughable. It reminds one of the experience 
of Rev. Edgerton R. Young, missionary to the Indians of the 
Northwest, who, one night when not fully awake, mistook his 
frozen nose for an ax-handle and tried to relieve his face of the 
impudent intruder. In the mishap referred to, 

MR. CLARK'S NOSE 

had protruded too far through the opening of his koode-tah 
and was frozen to his sleeping bag. So persistent was it in re- 
taining its new formed association that it had to be thawed 
off by the warmth of the hands. 

The day was spent in giving Entrikin a chance to recover, 
and in watching the thermometer, which was well down to 
—50°, 

FALLING TO —57 DEGREES 

during the night. Do his best, Morpheus could not make the 
men forget that it was a cold night, and yet all were ready to 
proceed on the next day, although at no time was the tempera- 
ture above the minus forties. A journey of five miles proved 
to Entrikin that he was not himself and further showed that 
the dogs were in no condition to breast the strong, cold wind 
that constantly opposed them. 

It was then decided to take two days for recuperation. 
The low temperature continued and again the dreaded Pib- 
luck-to began its fearful ravages, a victim dog biting nearly all 
of his yoke-fellows before he was shot. April 4th and 5th 
brought two excellent days' sledging and in them the party 
covered an aggregate of over thirty miles. However, scarcely 
had they encamped on the evening of the latter date, before 
Eurus fell upon them with all the fury of a demon, confining 
the men to their tent for three days and playing fearful havoc 
with the poor dogs. "When the storm ceased many of them 
were buried completely in the snow, several frozen down, and 



454 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

two were dead from exposure. All the sledges were completely 
snowed in and the tent itself half-buried in a big drift." It was 
during this storm that Mr. Baldwin contracted the "cramps." 
Upon our asking Mr. Baldwin the nature of this affliction we 
were promptly told that it was not an ailment of the stomach, 
but a contraction of the muscles brought on by the intense cold. 
So rigid do the muscles of the extremities become that the 
individual attacked is helpless, and relief is obtained only by 
inflicting upon the suffering member the severest blows. 

The next day's march covered a distance of seven miles 
only. Entrikin's feet were much worse, and two of the dogs 
suffering from Pib-luck-to had bitten nearly every dog in the 
pack. One of these dogs, Agitator, was the leader, or "king," 
of Mr. Baldwin's team. Of this creature Lieutenant Peary 
writes: "One of these dogs, the Agitator, a powerful, big, 
wolfish brute, the last survivor of the dogs purchased on the 
Labrador coast, presented just before he was killed as savage 
and gory a spectacle as I have ever seen. He had run amuck 
through the team, and, half blind as he was with froth and 
blood, had been mercilessly torn and shaken by the dogs that 
he had attacked. As the rifle was leveled at him he stood ex- 
hausted and panting, with head and neck swollen to twice their 
natural size, ears torn in shreds, eyes bloodshot, blood}^ foam 
dripping from his jaws, and his entire body flecked with foam 
and blood and clotted tufts of fur. Though so weak that he 
could scarcely stand, he was just gathering himself for another 
spring at the dog nearest him when the bullet passed through 
his brain, and he collapsed in a quivering heap on the blood- 
bespattered snow." "He was," says Baldwin, " a most faithful 
animal and I killed him Avith deep regret. Never slacking on 
his traces, except when seized with those horrid spasms, he 
worked to the last. Toward the end, I shortened his line, 
fastening him back of the other dogs of the team that he might 
not attack them, and then, in his madness, he would lunge for- 
ward, seize the chains between his ugly-looking jaws and leave 
upon them the deep imprints of his teeth." 

It needed no prophet to foretell that things were coming 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 455 

to a crisis. The status of the party on the 10th day of April 
was as follows: Entrikin, with his deeply frosted feet, must 
return to the Lodge. Clark had both heels and great toes frost- 
bitten and was daily suffering of bleeding from the nose. Bald- 
win had not fully recovered from the cramps and any provoca- 
tion of the Aveather might bring them on again. The season 
was already far advanced, considering the distance the party 
would have to travel before they even reached Independence 
Bay. The existence of the incurable Pib-luck-to was the 
weightiest drawback, as it threatened to exterminate entirely 
the pack of dogs. 

Says Lieutenant Peary at this juncture: "All, however, 

SHOWED TRUE GRIT 

and were willing to push on." We have heard with what feel- 
ings of remorse old soldiers have given up their battle-torn 
flags. Sometimes the bitterest disappointment comes when 
success seems nearest. "With such soldiers I could conquer 
the world!" exclaimed King P^^rrhus as he gazed upon the 
scarred countenance of a Roman soldier stern unto death. 
Ysliat must Lieutenant Peary have thought, as he looked into 
the faces of the three men awaiting his command, resolute even 
in the face of an eueni}^ that had defied every effort of civiliza- 
tion. Having carried the 

FLAG OF THEIR COUNTRY. 

thus far, is it any wonder that, as their eyes rested on the 
tattered shreds of all that remains of it, their spirits spurned 
the ver}^ thought of returning? But "the naked truth is an 
awesome thing." With men disabled and dogs dying; with 
the season advanced out of all proportion to the distance cov- 
ered; with the possibility of a later expedition demanding care- 
ful conservation of the men and means there was no alterna- 
tive but to 

TURN BACK. 

The party had traveled 12.5 miles north of Anniversary 
Lodge. A whole day was consumed in erecting the signal, re- 



456 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

arrangiug the sleclge-loads and repairing harnesses. One en- 
couraging feature was the fact that the return would be down 
grade. The first day's march was further accelerated by the 
wind, but the dogs played out at the end of eighteen miles and 
the party encamped. The Pib-luck-to again appeared and five 
dogs had to be shot, one on the journey and foui^ at camp. The 
party had scarcely finished their dinner before threatening- 
clouds rolled up from the southeast and another storm was at 
hand. All night long and until late the next day the fierce wind 
shrieked, and howled, and hissed, mercilessly driving the snow 
over the wilderuess of desolate ice. Tlien there came a pause 
— a breathing spell, and again the drift drove the party to seek 
shelter. During the blizzard Mr. Baldwin was 

HURLED PROM HIS FEET 

while going to the observatory sledge, and nearly suffocated 
before he could struggle back to the tent. He was benumbed 
ni)d helpless, his clothing a coat-of-mail from the fine snow 
driven into it. The following morning brought a calm. Two 
dogs were dead and another frozen to the stake. One-half day 
was spent in untangling dogs and digging out sledges before 
the party resumed its homeward march. The condition of Mr. 
Eutrikin's feet compelled him to ride the entire fourteen miles 
covered in the afternoon. 

With the advent of a calm night sweet sleep fell upon the 
weary men, bringing the much-needed rest and composure after 
the protracted storm. Three more of the dogs had to be killed 
before proceeding. The teams being too weak to draw the 
heavy sledge-loads, 300 pounds of supplies were cached. The 
temperature was mild, "the thermometer registering — 4° Fahr. 
when placed upon a piece of fur and exposed directly to the 
rays of the sun." In this summer calm the part}^ made sixteen 
miles. Again Mr. Entrikin, after trying to walk with his feet 
bundled in fur cushions, was compelled to ride the entire dis- 
tance. 

On April IGth, the temperature was again minus 40° Fahr., 
more of the dogs were in a dying condition, the strongest of the 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 457 

pack now succumbing, and the party were obliged to cache 
Clark's sledge and the greater portion of the load and to divide 
his team between Entrikin's and Baldwin's sledges. Onthenext 
day several more of the dogs died and the men struggled on, 
accompanied by heavy drifts and cutting winds. On this 
march, the outward sledge tracks, then more than three weeks 
old, were met with and found to be still distinct. These were 
followed about three miles when Baldwin's team gave out and 
the weary band went into camp after having traveled fourteen 
miles. 

Thus the long journey homeward progressed, until, after a 
continued absence of forty-live days, Anniversary Lodge was 
reached. Here the exhausted party were heartily greeted by 
their comrades and all gradually regained their usual strength, 
meanwhile anxiously awaiting the arrival of the "Falcon," 
which was expected to come from St. John's, New Foundland. 
On this, one of the most remarkable sledge Journeys on record, 

ONLY TWENTY-FIVE 

of the ninety-two Eskimo dogs survived the terrible ordeal to 
which they had been subjected, and even of that number more 
than half were worthless. A few more days must have exter- 
minated the entire pack. On the retreat scarcely any food was 
taken with which to feed them, the remnant of the pack sub- 
sisting on their dead mates. 

Finally, about the first of August, the 

LONG-LOOKED FOR VESSEL ARRIVED. 

Captain Bartlett, true to his word, had safely brought the 
staunch little cruiser to anchor in Falcon Harbor, on the 20th 
of August, just a year from the time she had left, after having 
landed the band of explorers on that desolate coast in 1893. 

In addition to Captain Bartlett and crew, the relief party 
consisted of H. G. Bryant, secretary of the Geographical Club 
of Philadelphia, commander; Professor T. C. Chamberlin, head 
professor of geology in the University of Chicago; Professor 
William Libbey, geographer, Princeton College; Dr. Ohlin, 



458 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

zoologist, Sweden; H. L. Bridgiiian, historian, Brooklyn; 
Emil Diebitsch, civil engineer, South Carolina, and Dr. Weth- 
erell, surgeon, Philadelphia. Following the arrival of the 
"Falcon" at headquarters the scientists were busily engaged in 
making investigations according to their several professions. 

From The Journal of Geology, vol. II, No. 7, we quote from 
Professor Chamberlin's admirable article entitled 

■ "GLACIAL STUDIES IN GREENLAND." 

as follows: "I enjoyed every facility which the phenomenal 
situation and the great kindness of Lieutenant Peary and his 
party could furnish. In no small degree their misfortune was 
my gain. Lieutenant Peary's intimate knowledge of the region, 
his wide observation upon the glaciers of middle and northern 
Greenland, his counsel and personal guidance, and his ample 
equipment for the northern work, all of which he placed at 
my service, were of incalculable aid to me. Mr. E. B. Baldwin, 
meteorologist of the party and an enthusiast in exjjloration, 
was my nearly constant guide and companion, and did all in 
his powder to aid in the work. One would be indifferent, in- 
deed, if, under these circumstances, he did not press the work 
to the utmost limits of physical and mental endurance, for the 
continuous daylight put no limit to the daily hours." — [North- 
western College Chronicle. 

Regarding the characteristics of these northern glaciers. 
Dr. Chamberlin remarks: "The feature which is likely first to 
impress the observer on reaching the glaciers of the north, is 
the verticality of their walls. Southern glaciers terminate 
in curving slopes, and the Disco glaciers of middle Greenland 
have the same habit; but the margins of the Inglefield glaciers 
rise abruptly like an escarpment of rock, 100 or 150 feet or 
more. The layers of ice are cut sharp across, exposing their 
edges. This is not quite universal, however, as sloping forms 
occur here and there. Occasionally a glacier presents both as- 
pects. These abrupt terminal walls turn toward all points 
of the compass. It is perhaps too much to say that they do 
this indifferently, as but few glaciers facing the north were 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 459 

seeu, but amoug these vertieality prevailed much as else- 
where. 

"Next to verticality, the most impressive feature is the 
pronounced stratification of the ice. The ice is almost as 
distinctly bedded and laminated as sedimentary rock. The 
vertical face usually presents two great divisions — an upper 
tract of thick, obscurelj- laminated layers of nearly white ice, 
and a lower laminated tract with rock-rubbish sandwiched 
between its beds. 

"The debris-layers are not all uniform in their distribution. 
Often they have much regularity and persistence; often they 
thin out and disappear within a short distance; more often 
still they persist for a few rods and then are replaced by ad- 
joining layers above or below which come in as these thin out. 
Thus a belt of layers has much i)ersistence, while the con- 
stituent layers are freely entering and vanishing. Lenses of 
debris occasionally appear among the layers, and a doubling 
back of the layers upon themselves, giving a lenticular section, 
is not uncommon. 

"The laminae are sometimes very symmetric, straight and 
parallel, but often they are wavy and undulatory. In many 
instances they are greatly curved and sometimes contorted in 
an intricate fashion. 

"The debris-belts are essentially parallel to the base of 
the glacier. They are chiefly confined to the lower fifty or 
seventj^-five feet; sometimes they prevail up to 100 feet and, 
rarely, beyond. 

"In meeting obstacles in front, the basal beds have the habit 
of curving upward, carrying their debris with them. Terminal 
moraines are sometimes thus made, resting on the edges of 
the ice-layers which formed them, 

"In meeting obstacles the layers are sometimes simply 
curved upward and over the prominence; but if the frontal 
slope be steep, much crumpling of the laminae often takes 
place. 

"Not only are the foliations twisted in gneissic fashion, 
but they are fractured and faulted, and along the fault-line 



460 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

the laminae are effected by ^drag' precisely analogous to that 
found in faulted rocks." 

Professor Chamberliu discovered a small area on the border 
of the main ice-cap east of Bowdoin Bsij, a branch oilnglefleld 
Gulf, over which the ice-cap seems never to have extended 
itself. Referring to this, and to the angularity of the border 
mountains, he says "the inference seems unavoidable that the 
ice of Greenland, on its western side, at least, has never ad- 
vanced very greatly beyond its present border in recent geo- 
logic times. This carries with it the dismissal of the hypothe- 
sis that the glaciation of our mainland had its source in Green- 
land." 

Previous to the arrival of the auxiliary or relief party. 
Lieutenant Peary had determined upon remaining in the field 
another season with only a small party, with which he again, 
in the summer of 1895, crossed to Independence Bay. Handi- 
capped almost at the outset by the failure to find the caches 
left upon the ice-cap in the preceding season, he was unable 
to accomplish much more than he did in the course of the first 
trip. His successive journeys, however, without accident or 
loss of life or health to the members of his parties, clearly dem- 
onstrate that great results might be accomplished with the 
adequate equipment of a party of young men thoroughly im- 
bued with the spirit of scientific exploration. And w^hen such 
men are to be had for less than the asking, are they not to be 
fairly encouraged by at least an abundance of food, clothing 
and equipment, whereby Nature may be inquired of in every 
avenue, even to the uttermost parts of the earth? 

Aside from the successful crossing of the inland ice, and 
the practical demonstration that Arctic life and work is not 
so dangerous as often supposed, Mr. Peary has secured a new 
map of the region extending from Cape York, latitude 75° 55' 
north to Cape Alexander, latitude 78° 10' north, and within 
which the range in longitude is nearly 8°. Many bays and 
several islands find representation for the first time, and nearly 
a hundred glaciers assume definite locations, whereas formerly 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHiTB WORLD. 461 

hardly a tenth of that number appeared. Astrup's map of 
Melville Bay must also be noted in this connection. 

The meteorological records Professor Salisbury pronounces 
to be "probably the most accurate and elaborate which have 
ever been secured in so high a latitude," and the two meteorites 
secured just east of Cape York possess great popular and sci- 
entific interest. 

In conclusion, the scholarly investigations of Professor 
Chamberlin, as well as those of his associate, Professor Salis- 
bury, of the University of Chicago, and of Professor Libbey, of 
Princeton College, on the geology and glacialogy of Greenland, 
place the scientific results on an exceedingly high plane. 

To what triumphs the investigations of such ripe minds 
might lead, if extended farther, cannot even be surmised. 
Elsewhere we have referred to the importance of the study of 
the magnetic forces of the earth, and Dr. Chamberlin's obser- 
vation in this connection is full of interest: 

"Not a few geologists have looked with some measure of 
hope to terrestrial magnetism for a valuable contribution to 
the dark problems of the earth's interior. We have long felt 
that there should be discoverable some medium which could 
be operated upon by some inventible device in such a way as 
to serve as a stethoscope, so to speak, to declare the conditions 
and the changes in the heart of the earth. 

"Megnetism is one of the suggested media, and it may reveal 
conditions of the interior now quite hidden from us." Quoting 
the eloquent words of Maxwell — referring to the sensitized 
sheet of the self-registering magnetograph — he adds: "On that 
paper, the never-resting heart of the earth is now tracing in 
telegraphic symbols, w^hich will one day be interpreted, a rec- 
ord of its pulsations and its flutterings, as well as of that slow 
but mighty working (the secular variation) which warns us 
that we must not suppose that the inner histor}^ of our planet is 
ended." Certainly, criticism of the labors of such men is not 
tolerable, and when carried on in regions where the privations 
are many, the harpings of the stay-at-home critic become re- 

30 



462 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

prebensible. In the plain, practical language of Engineer 
Melville: 

"And wolves, and ghouls, and would-be critics of Arctic toil 
and suffering, halt and know that the men whom you traduce 
or whose memories you blast forever, perhaps for a penny a 
line, are made of finer clay than you; men who were and are 
yet ready to sacrifice ever^^thing on earth save honor for the 
sake of science and the benefit of mankind. Men who did their 
best; and that best is so far ahead of the conception of their 
malicious judges that it is a nation's shame that it permits its 
heroes, living and dead, to be dragged through the slinj.e of 
public court and press for the gratification of the prurient mul- 
titude of scandal-mongers, gloating ever the silly effusions of 
the Arctic critic who never ventures his dear life nearer to the 
Arctic Circle than can be seen from the window of some tall 
printing-house south of 50° north latitude." 

In an article taken from the college publication previously 
quoted, there appears a concise statement of 

THE AUTHOR'S PLANS FOR THE FUTURE, 

which, being in keeping with the object for which this volume 
has been issued, we may not inappropriately repeat in this 
place: 

"Historically, the city of Naperville, located a short distance 
west of Chicago, is quite unique in Arctic relations. Itself an 
inland communit}^, it nevertheless takes its name from the 
Captains Naper, who were among its earliest settlers, having 
located on the banks of the DuPage River as early as 1830. 
Previous to that time the}^ had been sailing-masters on Lake 
Erie. Further, here in the old Pre-Emption house, still in use, 
was born Dr. C. C. Adams, of The New York Sun, the eminent 
geographical writer and the friend and patron of Lieutenant 
Peary in all his Arctic undertakings; here, too, another jour- 
nalist, the lamented Mr. Scott, of The Chicago Times-Herald, 
the patron of the Wellman Expedition, courted and married the 
fair granddaughter of an early settler; and last but not least 
here was reared our own Evelyn B. Baldwin, whose maternal 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 463 

ancestors were also among the pioneers of this same historic 
place. 

"Notwithstanding that Lieutenant Peary's Expedition 
failed to reach the pole, and that Mr. Wellman's was nipped in 
the — ice, at its very beginning, Mr. Baldwin is as enthusiastic 
as ever concerning further exploration in the far North. He 
says: 'Mr. Peary's Expedition was far from being a failure; 
full reports will prove this. Mr. Wellman was splendidly 
equipped and would undoubtedly have met with success had 
it not been for the crushing of his vessel when at the point 
of starting on his sledge-journey northward from Spitzbergen 
in the summer of 1893. The captain of the vessel had spent 
nearly a lifetime in command of vessels in the same region and 
had never before lost a ship. His misfortune was therefore an 
exception and not the rule. 

" 'Mr. Peary's partial failure was clearly owing to inade- 
quate provisions and equipment. Had the relief expeditions 
that went to bring his party home taken extra supplies where- 
with its most energetic members might have remained longer 
in the field, he would have accomplished the most brilliant 
journey on record. Experience has been a good, though rather 
harsh, teacher. 

" 'Now, I have been so frequently misquoted by the press 
that Avhat I now say I desire taken verbatim if at all. It has 
been published that I am endeavoring to organize another ex- 
pedition. That is true. It has also been published that the 
object will be to discover the pole. That is untrue — although, 
of course, we would take it in should it come in our way. No 
matter by whom or when that point may be attained, the 
greater work will be to complete the development of the 
geography, geology, botany, zoology, meteorology, astronomy, 
ethnology and other important sciences of the polar regions. 

" 'The work of such men as Professor Chamberlin, geologist, 
of the University of Chicago; of Professor Libbey, geographer, 
of Princeton College, New Jersey; of Professor Dyclie, zoolog- 
ist. University of Kansas; of Mr. H. G. Bryant and Professor 
Heilprin, naturalists and explorers, of Pennsylvania, and of 



464 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

others who have made great personal sacrifice in the distant 
North, should not be slighted. The press and the public should 
be sufficiently American — patriotic and intelligent enough — 
to lend to their countrymen all possible encouragement in such 
research. There are thousands who would, if they but under- 
stood clearly Arctic conditions and the causes of the so-called 
failures of previous expeditions, contribute freely toward an 
enterprise that must result in a common benefit. 

" 'Failure heretofore has almost invariably resulted not in 
the advance but in the retreat of the explorers and navigators. 
Let this be held in mind and a sufficiency of equipment and pro- 
visions looked after and success must follow. The terrible 
fate of the Greely Expedition emphasizes this fact. It will be 
recalled that, having failed to establish sufficient caches of 
provisions on the outward voyage, and relief failing to get to 
them in time, nineteen of the twenty-five men perished at Cape 
Sabine, the point to which they had retreated after having first 
carried on very successfully scientific investigations in Grinnell 
Land and North Greenland, Lieutenant Lockwood, then but 
thirty years of age, and Sergeant Brainard, at that time less 
than twenty-six years of age, attaining the farthest north, viz. : 
latitude, 83° 24'. 

" 'General Greely and Lieutenant Peary have both said that 
this work must be' done by young men of good health, of per- 
sonal enthusiasm and adequate intelligence, and of age be- 
tween the years of twenty-five and forty. It suggests to the 
hundreds of colleges and universities scattered throughout the 
land that here is a chance for strictly original research and a 
rare chance of adding to museum collections, etc. 

" 'As suggested, I do not believe in making a "dash" for the 
pole; it is too meteoric. Furthermore, the work should not 
be undertaken by ambitious I's but by none-the-less enthusias- 
tic we's. In the North World there's elbow room for all. 

" 'Preparations for such a trip cannot be safely hurried. 
Supplies for not less than three years should be carried and the 
retreat provided for as carefully as the advance by establishing 
caches at close intervals along the march. 




Lieut. D. L. Brainard, 2d Cavalry, U. S. A., Sole Survivor of the 

" Farthest North." 

(See Chapters XL. and XLII.) 




A Paleocrystic Ice-Floe. 

(See pages 295, 356, etc.) 



The Jackson-Harmsworth Expedition. 



few... 






J. F. Child, S. Burgess, 
Mineralogist. Commissariat 
Officer. 
A. Armitage, 
Astronomer. 



Dr. Kettlitz, H. Fisher, A. Moutefiore, H, A. H. Dunsford, 
Surgeon and Botanist. Hon. Sea, Surveyor. 

Geologist. 

F. G. Jackson, , A. Schlosshauer, 

Leader. Sailing Master. 

(See Chapter XLIV.) S. Y. Windward. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 465 

" ' Some weeks ago when on a visit to the Northwestern 
University, I stated my preference of routes, and continue of 
the same opinion formed while with Lieutenant Peary in North 
Greenland in 1893-4. That belief is, that the expedition should 
be located as near as possible to the old headquarters of Cap- 
tain Hall, off the eastern coast of Robeson Channel and 
the northwestern coast of Greenland, at which point aid can 
be rendered by the Eskimos just south. Further exploration 
northward would complete the delineation of Northern Green- 
land and finish the work of the lamented Lieutenant Lockwood 
and Sergeant Brainard of the Greely Expedition. Thence 
traveling eastward over the ice-cap of North Greenland, the 
work of completing the survey of Northeastern Greenland 
should be accomplished, while an examination of the west coast 
of Grinnell Land would round out the work so ably started by 
General Greely. 

" 'Since such hard-working, willing, and competent men, 
schooled to Arctic service with Lieutenant Peary, as Dr. Vin- 
cent, of Illinois; Messrs. Entrikin and Stokes, of Pennsylvania; 
Dr. Cook, of New York, and Mr. George H. Clark, of Massachu- 
setts, have signified their intention of going again, it may be 
safely concluded that their efforts will be crowned with success. 

" 'Finally, we hold with Sir W. E. Parry, with McClure, 
Scoresby, Dr. Kane, Greely, and others, that the isolated people 
of the frozen North, the ever-faithful, intelligent and friendly 
Eskimos, deserve more and better treatment at the hands of 
the civilized world than they have had. The successful investi- 
gation of that far-off land will be greatly facilitated by a hu- 
mane treatment of its inhabitants.' " 

In the above expressed preference or choice of routes, we 
are by no means alone, as will be learned from the following ex- 
tract taken from a communication addressed 

TO THE AUTHOR, BY LIEUTENANT D. L. BRAINARD. 

It is self-explanatory, and coming as it does from the only man 
living who has had experience in the matter of which he writes, 
namely, the attainment of the farthest north, is of great value. 
He says: 



466 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

"To reach a high latitude a vessel should be placed in New- 
man Bay, on the west coast of Greenland, just south of lati- 
tude 82° north. This is an advantageous position and would 
enable a party to place depots of provisions in the autumn for 
use in the early spring work. This adanced position in a fav- 
orable year would enable a party to attain a much higher lati- 
tude than was reached by Lieutenant Lockwood and m^-self; 
and it would also doubtless determine the northern point of 
Greenland." 

Lieutenant Brainard also believes "from the character of 
the ice in the Polar Basin, that clusters of islands will be found 
in the vicinity of the pole." 

Moreover, and aside from the thought of scientific and geo- 
graphical investigation, it is not unworthy of consideration 
that Dr. Nansen and his courageous companions may hit upon 
the north coast of Greenland or upon the undiscovered polar 
lands and may require assistance in returning to civilization 
with their lives and treasures of scientific information. 

Auxiliary to the main expedition, small supporting parties 
should be established at such points as would conduce both to 
scientific investigation and possible assistance to the main 
party and to each other. For illustration, two or three men, 
preferably a zoologist, a geologist, and a philologist stationed 
in the vicinity of Etah would be able to employ the time fully 
in that vicinity besides commanding the assistance of the na- 
tives of that region. A philologist would find a new field for 
investigation there, for the language of the Etah Eskimos has 
never yet been studied scientifically or reduced to writing. 
Another party with Eskimo supporters should be maintained 
at or near Cape Sabine, whence the exploration of the West 
Grinnell Land coast should be accomplished, and a large col- 
lection of scientific data and specimens made. Thence north- 
ward to Newman Bay, provision-depots should be made at con- 
venient points. From Newman Bay the entire energies of the 
party should be directed northward, with the possible allow- 
ance for a very small hunting-party to be maintained, should 
circumstances favor, at Fort Conger, in the vicinity of which 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 467 

game is known to be abundant and where beyond a doubt a 
large quantity of food for the main part}^ would be secured 
for use in case of need. Besides, the house and provisions left 
at that point by Lieutenant Greely would probably still be 
available. 

The auxiliary' parties at Etah or Sabine could be relieved 
annually if necessarj^, at a moderate expense and with entire 
safety. Speaking of the former locality, Chief Engineer Mel- 
ville, of the United States Navy, whose long and heroic Arctic 
service has already been noted, has this to say: 

"Small wonder that Haj^es selected this for his winter- 
harbor; it is enchanting enough to tempt any one to winter 
there and drink in its Arctic glories, from the great rocks fad- 
ing away in the fog from the black to a hazy purple, to the 
dazzling purity of the crystal glacier. There is nothing so 
grand in nature, and I cannot help marveling why our mil- 
lionaire yachtsmen do not cruise there to enjoy these match- 
less sights. The voyage can be made in two mouths, July 
and August, with entire safety to the frailest of their steam 
yachts." 

And that two or three enthusiastic young scientists sta- 
tioned at that place would be able to command the assistance 
of the faithful and affectionate natives of that region appears 
from the following letter from Dr. Vincent, the physician and 
surgeon of Lieutenant Peary's North Greenland Expedition 
of 1893-4. It is given to show what may be accomplished with 
entire safety by a very small number of men properly disci- 
plined and assisted by the ingenious natives, in a region which 
ignorance and inexperience has invested with many imaginary 
perils: 

"Chicago, 111., Feb. 3, 1896. 
"My Dear Baldwin; 

"Your request for an account of my trip with Entrikin over 
Crystal Palace Glacier gives me an infinite amount of pleasure; 
a pleasure because you have reserved a space in your book for 
your old comrade in furs; and a pleasure because it so vividly 
recalls the safe deliverance from a most trying journev. 



468 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

"On May 2d, 1894, Entrikin and mj'self started from Anni- 
versary Lodge with lleusselaer Harbor, Dr. Kane's winter 
headquarters, as our objective point. We had two objects in 
view; first, to visit the historic spot, and, if possible, recover 
the scientific instruments left there by Kane upon his retreat, 
and, second, to enjoy a polar bear hunt. Entrikin had Ong- 
ad-loo as driver for his eight dogs, while Kes-shu acted in a like 
capacity for me, with an equal number of dogs. At Ig-loo-do- 
hock-shi-nie we were joined by My-ouk, one of the oldest and 
most influential men in the tribe. 

"Reaching Nurkie, which is distant about twenty-five miles 
from Anniversary Lodge, we ran into a heavy snow-storm, and 
deemed it best to take shelter in a deserted igloo until the 
weather should be more favorable. Nurkie at this time of 
year is usually deserted. The natives, for various reasons, find 
it more advantageous to spend the winter farther up in Ingle- 
field Gulf. 

"After a long and tiresome tramp through a blinding snow- 
storm it was decidedly cozy even in these squalid quarters, and 
we here spent the ensuing night. 

"My-ouk was up and abroad long before we w^ere awake next 
morning. The younger natives stated that he had gone with- 
out rousing them, and they seemed to be as much perplexed 
by his absence as were Entrikin and myself. However, toward 
the middle of the afternoon he returned. It seemed that he 
had gone far enough beyond Peter-ah-wick to verify what he 
had already suspicioned, namely, that the sea-ice was broken 
up in Smith Sound by the action of the fierce storm of the day 
before. He stated that a journey to the north over the sea ice 
was out of the question. However, our disappointment was of 
brief duration, for after a few minutes of earnest conversation 
Avith the younger natives, Kes-shu explained to us that there 
was a way to reach Etah by making use of the 'ice foot,' the 
land, and a glacier. He explained that it would be no child's 
play, but that he was willing to lead if we would follow. Ac- 
cordingly we hastily packed the sledges for the journey. 

"Kes-shu was one of the most intelligent natives in the 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 469 

tribe, and having been associated with us so intimately during 
the long winter, he so selected his words that we readily un- 
derstood him. He was born at Etah and as a boy had tramped 
over every part of ground, or rather ice, for miles around, and 
was familiar with our proposed route. 

"We stopped at Peter-ah-wick only long enough to partake 
of a lunch of frozen raw walrus meat, then pushed on, A few 
hundred yards farther and we were in sight of the open sea. It 
was a most graitfying sight after gazing upon an endless sheet 
of ice for so many weeks. We now took the ^ice-foot,' or ledge 
of ice along the shore, and on its smooth surface made excellent 
progress. This ledge is at the height of high tide, and extends 
seaward ten or twelve feet. 

"Kes-shu insisted that at this particular spot the ice was 
'shu-tie, shu-tie ti-mot-tu' — always just so. We rounded the 
dreaded cape without the slightest difflculty, and to our great 
joy found that the ice had not floated out from the bay that 
separated us from Crystal Palace. We were tempted to pause 
and drink in this indescribably beautiful bit of scenery, but 
"the natives urged haste, saying the ice might float seaward 
with the turn of the tide, and we were soon under way again, 
trudging through the deep snow. Approaching the face of 
the glacier, a narrow and exceedingly steep raviue was dis- 
closed to view, covered with crusted snow that had undoubt- 
edly been accumulating and packing for countless ages, shel- 
tered as it was from the rays of the sun by the glacier on the 
one side, and a gigantic cliff on the other. Up this ravine we 
were obliged to pass. To the left was the south arm of Crystal 
Palace Glacier, with its formidable face towering fully a hun 
dred feet above us; to the right, a giant precipice of dingy 
granite. Stumbling up the steep ravine, we began the ascent 
of the rough surface of the glacier. As we ascended, the drifted 
snow grew deeper and deeper, compelling us to pause every 
few hundred yards to dislodge the snow that continually 
plowed in front of the sledges. To fall waist deep in a snow- 
covered crevasse was an unnoticed occurrence, and to make 
matters worse, snow began to fall in great density. ITow we 



470 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

longed for suow-shoes,forwewere soon floundering laboriously 
through snow that was over our boot tops. * * * We 
were more than eight hours in traveling the eight miles from 
the foot of the glacier to the sea ice of Foulke Fiord. Our 
aneroid registered 1,165 feet at the summit of the glacier. It 
was here that we paused, and, in spite of our fatigue and the 
whirling snow, drank in the sublime beauties of the most pic- 
turesque of glaciers. Fancy a Y placed in this position -< 
and it gives you a rough idea of its contour. Far to the north 
and west open water, interspersed with great floes of ice, met 
the eye. To the south, the rugged face of Cape Alexander 
thrust its sharp nose far into the Sound. To the east, extend- 
ed the endless and eternal ice-cap, its cruel, spotless surface 
stretcliing as far as the eye can reach. But, although it was 
the 7th of Ma}", it was bitterly cold. The exertion of the ascent 
had fairh^ bathed our fur-clad bodies in perspiration, and ac- 
tivity on our part was necessary, for a pause of but a few min- 
utes sufficed to chill us to the marrow. In reaching the sea-ice 
once more, we enjoyed a coast that I shall long remember. So 
swift was our descent that the dogs could not keep pace with 
us, and accordingly we cut their traces and allowed them to 
follow. 

''The going was now comparatively good and our drooping 
spirits rapidly revived. Kes-suh managed to secure a seal as 
we hurried on to Etah, now in sight. So fatigued were we 
upon our arrival there that I fear we failed to appreciate the 
novelty of our surroundings. Here we were at Etah — the most 
northern habitation on the face of the globe. While supping 
our tea we summed up the day's journey. We had consumed 
just twenty-two hours in journeying the sixty-two miles, walk- 
ing every step of the distance, the greater part of which was 
through snow to our knees — and, by the way, we had not eaten 
in all that time. 

"Wretched weather delayed us another two days. On the 
third day, after a twenty-two-mile tramp, we were on the sum- 
mit of Littleton Island, recalling the many stirring and unhap- 
py tragedies that had been enacted within the radius of a few 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 471 

miles. The misfortunes of Kane and Hayes, the wreck of the 
'Polaris,' and of the Troteus,' all came to mind. And just 
over the way, Greely and his heroic followers suffered untold 
hardships, and finally starvation. 

'The shattered condition of the ice forced us to give up all 
idea of our journey to the north, and therefore, filled with re- 
gret and bitter disappointment, we turned our faces homeward. 
We retraced our steps to Etah that afternoon, and made prepa- 
rations for an early start next morning. 

"Just as we started the ascent of Crystal Palace a dense fog- 
settled upon us, and we could scarcely distinguish each other 
ten feet away. Now our compass was useless, but Kes-shu 
was equal to the occasion and undertook to guide us. How 
helpless we would have been without him! and beyond a doubt 
would have repeated the performance of others under similar 
circumstances, and wandered for hours in every direction ex- 
cept the right one. For eight miles we were guided by Kes- 
shu (splendid fellow!), while Entrikin and myself might as 
well have been blindfolded. For nine hours we struggled 
through the deep snow, but with an implicit confidence in our 
imperturbable guide. The confidence of the man was so ever- 
present that neither Entrikin nor myself even for a moment 
feared for our safety. The hours dragged painfully, but all 
was soon forgotten when Kes-shu received an answering 
Halloo! from a cliff several hundred yards to our right. In 
another minute we were coasting rapidly to the sea-ice down 
the ravine, in the tracks that had been made by us four days 
before. Xo better demonstration has ever been given of the 
wonderful instinct with which these innocent, ignorant, and 
isolated people are endowed. They are a glorious, a wonder- 
ful, a magnificent race. 

"The remainder of our journey was uneventful. We had 
been absent from Anniversary^ Lodge just nine da^'S, had 
traveled during but five of these days, and had covered a dis- 
tance of three hundred miles. 

"Hardships and danger endured together make brothers of 
us all. I had always been very fond of Entrikin, but at the end 



472 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

of our journey I was ready to proclaim him a prince of good 
fellows. 

^'I trust I have written subject matter that may prove use- 
ful; and believe me, I hope your efforts may meet with the 
success they certainly deserve. 

"Faithfully yours, 

"Edward Vincent." 

The following account by the late Eivind Astrup of his 
memorable and successful reconnoissance of Melville Bay and 
its coast line, two years ago this month and next (April and 
May, 1896), appears in the "Fortnightly Review" for April; 
is of a much more familiar and popular character than that of 
the same journey in the "Koyal Geographical Journal" some 
months since, and gains interest from Astrup's death in De- 
cember in the mountains of his native Norway. The start 
was made from Mr. Pearj^'s headquarters at Bowdoin Bay, 
two hundred fifty miles north of Cape York. 

COMRADE ASTRUP'S ACCOUNT OF HIS TRIP TO MELVILLE BAY. 

At the commencement of April I began the necessary prep- 
arations, which, for more reasons than one, were both few and 
simple. As regards meat, I had to rely solely on my luck as 
a hunter, and it was therefore necessary' for me to secure a 
good native companion and fellow sportsman, which I found 
in my friend Kolotengva. Kolotengva is a young Eskimo of 
about five and twenty years of age, low of stature but well 
knit, with sinews of steel, and quite incredible muscular 
strength. His eyes are small, but he sees with tliem objects 
far be^^ond the vision of ordinary mortals. His long, black 
hair is by nature slightly curled, and forms a rather handsome 
frame around a daring and regular face. As a hunter he has 
no equal — he reminds me in many respects of Fenimore 
Cooper's Indian chiefs. Nobody in the whole tribe could be 
prouder than Kolotengva, nobody more free and independent, 
nobody stanclier in friendship or nobler in thought, nobody 
cooler in the hour of danger, or more astute during the hunt — 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 473 

in fact, he wa.s a hero. And with him as companion I Ivnew I 
shonld pnll throngh. 

Our equipment was otherwise simple enough. Of instru- 
ments we had a theodolite, a thermometer, a chronometer, a 
compass, binocular, snow spectacles, charts, scientific tables, 
etc.; and of food, a little tea, sugar, ])ea flour, ship's bread 
and bacon. In addition, two rities, fifty cartridges, a small 
lamp of stone for cooking with seal oil, as there was neither 
spirits nor paraffin oil to spare then, some reindeer skins, an 
ax, and a few extra pairs of socks and leggings. Of dogs, I 
succeeded in borrowing or bartering eight, whilst our sledge 
was made b}^ Kolotengva and myself just before our start, on 
native model, with runners shod with polished bone. 

. On the morning of April 6th everything was ready for the 
start, and although the weather was a little doubtful, with 
overcast sky and the air threateningly "mild" (zero Fah.), we 
set off in the forenoon. Between the dark, almost perpendicu- 
lar mountains out in the fiord the fog hung heavy and leaden, 
and farther in, near our winter quarters, a keen, cutting, north- 
easter swept the hills and the ice. We took it in turns to sit 
on the sledge whilst one ran behind, holding to the stand-up 
steering arms. At racing pace we sped across the ice covered 
with hard, frozen snow', whilst the weather cleared. The sun 
does not rise high in the sky so early in the spring in these lati- 
tudes, so that we did not derive any warmth from it, but, on 
the other hand, it remained up so long that we had no cause 
for complaint. And a long day we needed, for the distance 
to the nearest Eskimo colony was a stiff one, i. e., close upon 
seventy miles, and people we must reach that day, as our 
supper depended upon native hospitality. 

It was just midnight, with a faint twilight, when we 
reached the southeast cape of Herbert Island, where our 
friends dwelt. The spot was called Oloschynni, and the colony 
consisted of five stone huts, of which only two were occupied. 
Here we found one of the most famous bear hunters of the 
tribe, Nordingyer, who had just returned from several weeks' 
hunting south, at Cape York. The bears had treated him 



471 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

badly this time, two of his best trained dogs having been 
killed, and he himself nearly sharing the same fate, to which 
his clawed-iip arm, covered with fur rags, bore witness. Sur- 
gery is only but little understood by these people; on the 
other hand, nature comes to their aid very powerfully, healing 
quickly broken bones and wounds which in other climates 
would require weeks. 

The poor man was now seated on his couch, naked, chant- 
ing mystic incantations to hidden spirits in order to accelerate 
the healing of the wound. Fortunately it was healing fast. 
Before going to rest we had an excellent supper of polar bear's 
meat, boiled bacon, and ship's bread. The first was frozen, 
and tasted like melon — at least that is my own impression, 
though it may not be corroborated by others. All the night 
through two charming old ladies were engaged in sewing me 
a pair of new seal "kamikker," as the Eskimos would on no ac- 
count permit me to start on our long journey in my old top 
boots, in which the toes showed a. dangerous tendency to 
come through. For this work I presented them with a fork, 
two prongs of which were gone, and five and thirty matches. 

The next morning there was a thick fog, and as our way 
lay right across the mouth of Whale Sound to some huts on 
its southern side, I was at first of opinion that we would have 
to await clearer weather before being able to set out, as no 
compass course could be shaped by the chart, which here, as 
everywhere else, proved utterly incorrect, and we might have 
been poking about at the south side of the sound if we got a 
bit astray. But Kolotengva only smiled quietly at my sug- 
gestions, and thought that it was hard upon him to be accused 
of not '"knowing the way in his own country," even in a fog, 
and my confidence in him as one of nature's children being un- 
bounded, we set out forthwith for Netchilumi, the next in- 
habited spot. 

For many hours we sledged through the thick fog, so thick, 
in fact, that we could hardly see the dogs in front of us, but 
in spite of this Kolotengva succeeded in reaching our destina- 
tion in a direct line! Some will at once sav that he was led 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 475 

by auimal instinct; but no, I shall not insult my Eskimo 
friends by endorsing that view. Nay, the human brain seems 
pretty much alike in the main among all wild tribes, and the 
man only performed what his splendid practical geometrical 
faculties suggested to him. For the direction of the wind 
along these shores is generally most remarkably uniform, and 
if it be a little strong, it will cause the loose, fine snow to drift 
like desert sand. During this action all of the tiny specks of 
snow will shift according to the same physical laws, and shape 
themselves during their progress into various forms and fig- 
ures with such regularity that long parallel streaks are 
formed on the surface of the snow. Now, by observing that 
the angle between these streaks and the line of march to be 
followed always remain the same, there is not much difflculty 
in steadily maintaining the same course; and it was this 
method Kolotengva followed. During our march across the 
Greenland inland ice in 1892, Lieutenant Peary and I became 
accustomed in thick weather to follow the same wind indica- 
tions, and the traces of them up in these storm realms are far 
more pronounced and characteristic than farther south. In- 
deed, often the surface of the snow resembles a sea in violent 
motion suddenly arrested and turned into a cold, still ocean of 
snow. 

Towards evening we arrived at Netchilumi, where we were 
most heartily welcomed by the settlers, and took up our abode 
in the hut of the oldest brother, Terrikotti. With him we 
spent an enjoyable evening. 

His good old woman fried bacon and made tea for us with- 
out wanting any particular instructions, whilst Kolotengva 
chanted weird incantations in the dim light afforded by the 
train-oil lamp, and the master of the hut and his visitors 
listened to a little impromptu geography, aided by a polar 
chart and a blown-out bladder, wherewith to explain 
the globular theor}^ of the earth. But when we came 
to the consequences of the latter assertion, viz., that 
people in the two hemispheres walk feet to feet, the teaching- 
came to an end. Nobody was able to follow these wild flights 



476 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

of fancy. In vain I demonstrated the attraction of tlie earth 
with the aid of dropping objects, when suddenly the half- 
grown son seemed to catch a glimmer of light. His tongue 
was loosened, and he began to rattle away to his countrymen 
in their curious, guttural tongue. What he said I was un- 
able to catch, but at the end of his discourse every one seemed 
convinced of the new theory. 

The next day the fog was thicker than ever, and as at the 
same time there blew a. strong southerly gale, we had to re- 
main weather-bound till the following morning. In the mean- 
time we collected some minerals, and set four women to sew 
us new breeches of young, strong bearskin. This was a fresh 
addition to our wardrobe, and, with the kamikker, trans- 
formed me into a veritable North Greenland '''dude." The fol- 
lowing morning, as stated, we were again able to start. The 
weather was then "cracking" cold, with a clear sun. To our 
delight our host, when we were about to start, informed us 
that he would accompany us as far as Cape York, a distance 
of about one hundred seventy-five miles, as he had "busi- 
ness" there. His son had the previous autumn left his "Kay- 
ak" down there, and this the old man now intended to fetch 
before the ice broke up. His journey, moreover, was prompted 
by the unexpected opportunity now^ presenting itself 
of having the company of a "Kablunachsuak" (white 
man), and enjoying the dainties flowing therefrom, 
such as bacon rinds and other remnants of his feasts. 
Terrikotti took his wife with him, too, looking upon 
the journey of three hundred fifty miles in the depth of 
winter as rather a pleasure or recreation trip than anything 
else. He had with him seven splendid, strong dogs, which 
careered magnificently across the ice, and they were, as is 
generally the case with these animals, so beautifully trained 
that a shout only from their master was sufficient to make 
them run either right or left, stop dead or increase speed, 
"watch for seal," or sniff the hard snow for bear tracks. The 
journey certainly became both more interesting and lively for 
this unexpected addition to our party. They followed all 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 477 

their old customs and modes of traveling, and revealed many 
of their forms of worship and superstitions, looking upon the 
"Kabluna" as one of themselves. 

In the course of the da}' we passed round a ness running 
into Whale iSound and Boat Inlet, halted at Cape Parry, then 
surrounded with open water, and having to make a detour in- 
land, reached an altitude of about a thousand feet. At this 
elevation the weather conditions were, no doubt on account 
of the proximity of the sea, so entirely different from those at 
a lower level, that we could hardly make any [jrogress against 
the blinding snow and fog, and the cutting winds, which 
seemed quite to scorch our faces. But it did not last long, for 
soon we were past the highest point of the snow hill covering 
the plateau-shaped ness; we got the wind with us, and rush- 
ing at great speed down through a narrow gulch, we again 
emerged among the sun-bathed glaciers and icebergs. But 
far beyond the glittering icebergs and the immense ocean of 
snow-covered ice utterly void of life, we beheld the dark blue 
ocean, indescribably lovely and fascinating, here and there 
glittering and shining where the sun's rays were reflected 
from the long, foam-crested swell. 

What effect that sight had upon one who had passed six 
months in semi-darkness in these dreary, icebound surround- 
ings, and with a badly suppressed home-longing at heart, I 
must leave to the reader's imagination. Memories of the far- 
off sea-girt fatherland rushed upon me, and threw me into a 
dreamy, melancholy state, most undesirable for the work in 
hand. As I halted and stood gazing out towards the blue 
horizon, my followers inquired what I was looking for, but 
only badly could I explain what I thought and felt. Never- 
theless, these sensitive people, children of the ice and snow, 
quite gathered my meaning, and the old man exclaimed sev- 
eral times in a sympathetic undertone, "ayonai, ayonai" (how 
sad, how sad). 

On coming down from our land journey we continued along 
the rather low, flat shores on Booth Inlet, passing the remark- 
able Fitz Clarence Rock, a little island rising in terraces to a 
31 



478 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

height of about a thousaDcl feet. During thousands of years, 
wet, ice and storm have gradually eroded the rock, and the 
blocks thrown down have fallen with such regularity around 
the whole island that it rises above the flat ice fields like an 
enormous black cone, out of which the solid central part with 
perpendicular sides stands forth. 

Just below this weird-looking island we had again to seek 
the mainland, as the ice during the equinoctial gales a few 
weeks before had broken up and drifted into the partly open 
Baffin's Bay. Fortunately, the land here, whilst lofty south 
and north, was comparatively level, so that we could continue 
our journey without difficulty, although the sharp stones pro- 
jecting through the snow here and there ripped the sledges 
unpleasantly. 

A little after noon we came upon fresh reindeer tracks, and 
there must have been quite a herd of them ; there were spoors 
in all directions. We had no meat for supper, nor any for our 
hungT}^ <iogs, so it would be a godsend to obtain an animal or 
two. The natives were nearly mad with excitement, and pro- 
posed to set off in pursuit at once. I let them have a rifle 
each, whilst I went to examine some white, quartz-like rocks 
in the vicinity. Terrikotti's wife was left behind to look after 
the dogs, which, in some circumstances, cannot be left alone, 
as, when these half-tamed wolves get the scent of game, noth- 
ing can stop them. 

Ten minutes had barely gone by before I heard a rifle shot 
close at hand, and presently Kolotengva's little, square figure 
appeared on a ridge, calling to us to bring the sledges up. This 
was but the work of a few moments, and w^e beheld a great 
reindeer cow lying dead on the snow. A meal followed, in 
which four human beings and fifteen dogs participated with- 
out distinction, only that we human beings seized the tit-bits. 
We saved, however, a fine piece of steak for supper, with the 
reindeer belly, which the two "Arctics" had not the heart to 
leave behind, for it is their greatest delicacy. 

W^e did not travel much farther that da}-, having sledged 
without a break for thirteen hours, so we halted at about seven 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 473 

o'clock on the north side of Whalstenholme Sound, where we 
built a cosy little snow hut in a suitable, well-sheltered drift. 
It was constructed in the usual Eskimo fashion, of large 
blocks cut out of the snowdrift, put together so as to form a 
solid cupola over the space below, sufficient to hold us all. 
The dogs always sleep in the open, winter as well as summer, 
and in all kinds of weather. They were, therefore, simplj^ tied 
to Koloteng'va's walrus lance, rammed into the ground just 
outside the hut. We will now peep inside, all fissures in roof 
and walls having been closed with snow, and the lamps light- 
ed. To get in it is necessary to crawl through the little hole 
on the lee side, and when of the Caucasian race, great care 
has to be exercised not to wreck the proud structure, as the 
opening is only intended for tiny Eskimo bodies. Inside a 
comparatively high temperature prevails, which causes the 
snow in the roof to melt, whereby the structure is strength- 
ened, as the blocks then sink a little, freeze together, and form 
on the inside a hard, polished dome of ice. The water thus 
formed by degrees trickles slowly down the walls of the hut 
towards the floor, forming the most beautiful glittering ice- 
taps. However, at night, when cooking is over, the melting 
ceases, as the lamps then only burn with a faint flame. 

But as we enter, the cooking is in full swing, and under the 
little stone vessels the flames are made as long as the saucer- 
shaped lamps with moss wicks and blubber will allow. On 
the raised platform at the back of the hut I and Kolotengva 
are installed, whilst opposite reside the old man and his wom- 
an. All of us are airily dressed, as it would of course be ab- 
surd to sleep in the stiff, wet garments when there is an 
opportunity of throwing them off and crawling into soft, warm 
reindeer skins instead. 

The old woman mostly sees to the cooking, and in order 
to ascertain whether the water for the tea is getting warm, 
she pow and again puts her hand flat into it, a manner of 
"taking" boiling temperature which I at first have great diffi- 
culty in reconciling myself to, but by philosophically arguing 
the point with myself, I come to the conclusion that it is no 



480 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

worse than the handling of the meat we are to eat, and I 
reconcile myself to my fate. 

The next morning the weather continued gloriously fine, 
and at half-past seven we were again off. Our road now lay 
right across the broad Whalsteuholme Sound. Saunders' 
Island, situated about midway, we had intended to pass to 
the west, as this route was the shortest; but on reaching the 
western point of the island w^e were arrested by open water, 
and had to proceed eastward in order to reach the inner side. 
We did, however, not omit first to try the new steel-like ice 
just below the lofty mountain walls- rising to a height of over 
two thousand feet, in order perhaps to save the long detour, 
but it was not good. The ice was too weak, and I cannot help 
confessing that I breathed more freely after the discovery, as 
my recent experiences on new ice were anything but pleasant. 
I may as well tell the story as we travel. 

It was in the first half of February, just as the cold was 
severest, that I was traveling far to the north of our winter 
quarters for the purpose of obtaining meat for our many dogs, 
which were half starved. I had for companion a native, 
Kaschu by name, a lively, amusing fellow; but I must add he 
he was a thief and a liar of the first water to boot, under cer- 
tain "extenuating circumstances." Here, out campaigning, 
he was a splendid fellow indeed. We had left the nearest 
colony at five in the morning, in brilliant moonshine, and had 
for hours, with twelve dogs, been speeding out towards the 
broad Smith's Sound, in order to reach new ice, where the 
walrus love to romp in winter time. When about twenty 
miles distant from the coast, we halted, tied the dogs to hum- 
mocks, and proceeded on foot a couple of miles farther out, 
watching for walruses, as these animals are in the habit of 
thrusting their big heads through the thin ice in order to 
breathe, and it is then that the Eskimo watches his opportu- 
nit3=' of launching his harpoon into their bodies, keeping them 
tied with the line till the animals are exhausted. A little after 
noon we succeeded in killing an enormous she-walrus, a task, 
however, comparatively easy, as we had both harpoon and 




Masonic Apron Carried North by the Author. 

(SeeCliapterXLVI.) 




An Historic Flag, Gavel and Candle. 

iSeeCliapterXLVI.) 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 481 

rifle, and whilst Kaschii was cutting it up I was to fetch the 
sledge and dogs. At a rattling pace we sped seawards 
towards him. See him I could not, although it was only just 
after noon, as twilight had already set in, and only a faint 
streak in the south indicated where the long-looked-for sun 
was. Suddenly I felt a slight jerk of the sledge as it sped 
silently out upon the dark, violet-colored surface of elastic 
new ice; I at once concluded that in the gloaming we had 
steered right across a newly frozen "clear" in the ice, and al- 
though the sledge was already in a swaying motion, it looked 
at the moment as if we might be able to get safely over without 
accident. Just then one of the native sledge runners cut 
through, the pace slackened, and then almost ceased. The 
sledge was already partly under the ice! An icy bath I knev/ at 
once I was to have, so I slid off the sledge slowly, and gave at 
the same time a violent pull at the steering band, whereby the 
front part again reached the ice sheet, and then began a ter- 
rible fight for life as we slowly splashed through the water 
to the other side. The dogs needed no encouragement to pull 
now, the keen animals exerted themselves to their utmost, un- 
derstanding quite well that it was a struggle for life. At one 
moment most of them were in the water, in the next they ob- 
tained foothold on the ice with their sharp claws, but only 
again to be immersed in the icy waves. I shall not enlarge 
upon the horrors of the situation and my reflections, but only 
add that we reached the solid ice at last on the other side of 
the "clear" more than forty feet wide, and that I was soaked 
to the armpits under a temperature of 40 degrees F. below 
freezing point, and no land in sight. I ran out to my compan- 
ion in my heavy fur garments, which already began to be 
coated with icicles, and got him to drive me home at once. 
The dogs did their duty in the fiuQ moonlight, and in four 
hours we were safely back in one of the warm earth huts of 
the natives. And I suffered no more from my awful immer- 
sion, but forget it I never shall. 

We had, it may be remembered, been compelled to make a 
great detour eastwards to get past Saunders' Island on the 



482 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

inside, and as we passed the east side of the island we came 
upon the tracks of three bears, two old ones and a 3^oung one. 
It is hardly possible to form an idea of the excitement pro- 
duced upon the Eskimos — all ardent hunters — and their semi- 
savage di)gs under such circumstances. The dogs pull vio- 
lently at their leather traces and scan with raised ears keenly 
the snowy wastes, whilst their masters stop, converse in whis- 
pers, listen, scan the wastes, run a little, stop again, and then 
repeat the whole performance anew. It might be doubted 
whether men who so absolutely lose their coolness on coming 
upon the tracks of game are really worth anything as hunt- 
ers. But the doubt is soon dispelled. The excitement, in fact, 
tends to stimulate their intellectual faculties and keenness, 
and the spectator is soon compelled to admire their qualifica- 
tions as hunters and sportsmen of a very high order. In the 
present case, however, the hunt was fruitless. We followed 
three bear tracks right and left across the wide, dreary ex- 
panse of ice, until the sun's disk, huge and glowing, touched 
the snow-white horizon to the northwest, disappearing pres- 
ently behind distant icebergs. In vain the natives scanned 
the vast white expanse with my glasses, the remarkable quali- 
ties of which they soon learnt to admire, but no sign of a 
living thing in any direction. We had, therefore, to abandon 
the quest and resume our journey along the coast south of 
the mouth of the fiord. A little later, we passed Cape Atholl, 
where the ice began; being snow free, we could advance much 
faster, and at midnight, after sixteen hours of incessant trav- 
eling, we halted at a spot called Igiuduhugni. During our 
entire journey the dogs had gone at a great pace, the bear 
chase included, and the distance covered that day (sixteen 
hours) was equal to about a degree of latitude, or no less than 
seventy miles. 

W^e had expected to find natives at this place, but all we 
we could discover in the gloom of midnight was a long-desert- 
ed, tumbledown snow hut. Kolotengva and I at once set to 
work to repair the hut, whilst the old man and his woman 
began to dig in the snow under a huge traveled boulder, main- 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 483 

taining that they would, according to an old charitable Eski- 
mo custom, find seal blubber for the aid of needy travelers in 
general. Long and deep they dug, and blubber there was, 
sure enough, in plenty. The old man cut up some in bits for 
the dogs, whilst the woman prepared other for our lamps, 
making the pieces soft by chewing them with their teeth before 
putting them on the lamp saucers. In a short while we were 
snugly ensconced under our snow roof, consuming the remain- 
der of our reindeer steak of yesterday, whilst chatting about 
the events of the daj. And, indeed, we were on the point of 
getting fox steak, too, for supper that night, as just before we 
reached our quarters we enjoyed an exciting and remarkable 
chase after a couple of Arctic Reynards, which only got away 
by the skin of their teeth. The whole affair reminded me 
much of an English fox hunt, with the exception that we 
chased the foxes on sledges instead of on horseback; but for 
excitement and novelty I must accord the palm to the latter 
mode of hunting these vile animals. In the faint rays of the 
Arctic midnight sun these little foxes often tramp long dis- 
tances across the silent, icy expanse, in search of the remnants 
of feasts by polar bears, dead seal cubs, and the like. It was 
two such midnight prowlers we had come upon. Hardly had 
the dogs spotted the two black little dots away in front of us 
— for thej were so-called "blue" foxes — before they set off at 
such a terrific pace that we were just able to fling ourselves 
on the sledges and enjoy the chase too. Away galloped the 
foxes; after them raced the dogs. But we did not gain much 
upon the vile beggars, as, of course, the sledges handicapped 
the dogs so much that one fox succeeded in at once escaping, 
having astutely enough made for the shore. The other, how- 
ever, was just in front of us, but seemed to be getting away. 
What, then, do my worthy sporting friends, who in the most 
intense excitement have been watching the unequal chase, 
and who now begin to see a doubtful issue, do? Quick as 
thought Kolotengva seizes his knife, bends forward, and cuts 
with a single rapid stroke the trace of the fastest of our ani- 
mals, a little lady dog. And, in an instant, his companion 



484 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

follows his example. Like arrows shot from a bow the two 
animals dart forward. But one dog appears to gain over the 
other, and this does not please our companion at all, so, quick 
as lightning, he dispatches another gray touzler from his team, 
which is immediately followed by another from our side. Now 
follow encouraging shouts to the dogs from both contesting 
parties, exactly as in a north country coursing match, and a 
laughing, rattling, shrieking dispute between the two sledges 
as to the merits and chances of their respective animals. My 
dog won the match in securing the little terrified blue fox; 
but, alas! artful as ever, Reynard, at the moment of victory, 
jumped for dear life on to the top of a high, flat iceberg, where 
our dogs were unable to follow and our guns to reach it, as 
the fox lay down flat. And thus ended an exciting fox hunt 
and coursing match a la Eskimo. 

The next day the weather was still magnificent, and at 
midday the sun became so warm that here and there a solitary 
seal was enticed to come up to his breathing hole in the ice 
in order to bask in the rays of the sun. 

It was midnight again before we reached Cape York, the 
last inhabited spot in our journey; again we had traveled in- 
cessantly for sixteen hours, and covered a distance of fifty 
miles since daybreak. At this time only a few stars of the 
first magnitude glittered in the southern heavens, and we wel- 
comed the lovely light nights of the Arctic summer. But I 
will at once confess that we were in no mood for such charm- 
ing and idyllic reflections when we drove on that night before 
the stone huts at Imnaminomen. The glass stood at 24 de- 
grees F. below zero (56 degrees of frost), and, being famishing 
like wolves, we felt the cutting night wind and the cold the 
more. But the natives at this place received us with cus- 
tomar}^ Eskimo hospitality. Sleep and rest were what we 
most needed, and after a solid meal for ourselves and the dogs, 
w^e fell immediately asleep, only to awake when the sun had 
risen far into the heavens. 

Two days (April 13 and 14) w^e remained at the colony to 
give our dogs a good rest and to await a change in the weather. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 485 

which had now become stormy. It cannot be denied that we 
felt ennui during these days of enforced idleness, as the 
North Greenland huts become rather confined to a European, 
however contented and frugal, when weather-bound for any 
length of time. But in the daytime our life was lively enough, 
and many were the questions put and answered on both sides, 
of the customs, sagas, and traditions of the North Greenland- 
ers, as well as of the far-away southern lands and their many 
races, and especially, I venture to think, the Eskimos gained a 
good idea of my own fatherland, "Old Norway," with its 
soughing forests, green hillsides, roaring falls, and splendid 
climate. I had to describe them all over and over again. 
Equally interesting, perhaps, were the musical soirees, which 
took place in some hut or another, attended by the entire elite 
of the colony. At these charming reunions the blubber drum 
or "tom-tom" was heard incessantly, while hysterical witches 
and mystic old men in turns chanted monotonously half-wail- 
ing incantations to spirits supposed to be hovering about. 
Some of the so-called "Angekokkes," or sorcerers, exercise a 
most remarkable influence on their listeners, who frequently 
listen to their monotonous chants in trembling and breathless 
expectanc}^ 

At last, early on the morning of April 15, we were able to 
continue our journey eastward. Kolotengva and I were now 
again alone, the old couple who had accompanied us on the 
previous days having remained at Cape York, the goal of their 
journey. Our course now lay straight for the islands in Mel- 
ville Bay, whence I hoped to get a good view of the unknown 
shores within, in case ice should prevent my reaching them. 
During the morning we passed Bushman's Island, situated 
about twenty miles east of Cape York. Even before we 
reached it I became aware that the coast-land just to the 
northward of us formed no part of the mainland, but consist- 
ed, in fact, of two large islands hitherto unknown. During 
the afternoon, as we sledged farther and farther eastwards, 
we came in sight of enormous glaciers such as I had always 
been of opinion existed along the northeastern shores of Mel- 



486 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

ville Bay. Indeed, I found that practically the whole coast 
line from Cape York eastwards, as far as the eye could reach, 
was continually broken by vast and active glaciers. At six 
p. m. we halted, having covered fifty miles, and built our snow 
hut for the night. We were then nearly directly south of Cape 
Melville, and only a few miles from the shore. The ice on 
which we sledged during the first part of our journey from 
Cape York was very smooth and quite different from what I 
had expected. With the exception of a belt of ice about two 
miles broad, the surface of which formed a chaos of irregu- 
larly-edged and wildh^ piled-up blocks, rising to a height of 
from six feet to eight feet, the rest of our road was perfectly 
level and smooth. This I ma,y, perhaps, ascribe to Koloteng- 
va's intimate knowledge of ice navigation. 

Having enjoyed a refreshing night's rest in the hut, we 
continued, the following day, our journey in fine but hazy 
weather. About midday land was clearly discernible to the 
northeast, but in the afternoon everything was again hidden 
in a thick fog. We halted at five p. m,, having covered forty 
miles. It then snowed hard. Again we had a good night's 
rest, but found the next morning that several inches of new 
snow had fallen, whilst the fog was as thick as ever and com- 
pletely hid the land. But at noon, when everything seemed 
most dreary and hopeless, the fog suddenly lifted, like an enor- 
mous curtain, and displayed to our astonished gaze a pano- 
rama so grand and imposing that it will never fade from my 
mind. Loft^', somber mountains, gigantic, snowy glaciers, 
and aerial blue glittering snow cones, all charmingly bathed 
in the purple rays of the noonday sun, stretched in wild disor- 
der along the horizon, the tout ensemble forming a most 
striking and fascinating spectacle of a land never trodden by 
human being. 

By continuing our east-southeast course, which we had fol- 
low^ed since morning, we reached, at about six p. m., a small, 
isolated island, where I decided to remain for a day or two in 
order to take observations. The island proved to be identical 
with Thorn Island of the chart, having in its center a conically 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 487 

shaped rock from three hundred to four hundred feet in height, 
which would afford a most desirably high plateau whence to 
fix the glaciers and capes of the mainland. We therefore built 
a snow hut at the bottom of a sheltered cleft in the rocks at 
the south side of the island, and found the weather the next 
morning, to our great satisfaction, all that could be desired. 
The air was remarkabh' clear, the most distant mountains 
standing forth distinctly. I obtained an observation of the 
sun at noon, as well as all requisite determinations of the 
mainland. The island I found to be situated in longitude 75° 
41' 44" N., and the compass variation 88^° W. I delineated 
also the profile of the entire coast line, including several new 
islands of considerable size. While I was thus engaged my 
worthy friend had set off seal hunting, as we were in want of 
meat for ourselves and dogs, and blubber for the lamps. And 
he succeeded in an hour's time in killing a fine animal. 

1 watched him through my glasses as he cautiously and 
silentlj^ crawled, or rather hauled himself along towards the 
dozing seal. To me up here it seemed as if he was near enough 
to touch it with his hand ; but still I waited and waited for the 
report of his rifle. At last a faint cloud arose, and the report 
rang through the still, clear air, and in the same instant Kolo- 
tengva's knife flashed for a second in the sun, burying itself in 
the next in the body of his valuable spoil, which now relieved 
us from all anxieties as to food for ourselves and our faithful, 
almost half-starved, companions for some time to come. 

Of the fifty-miles-long coast line, bounded in the northwest 
by Cape Melville and in the southeast by Eed Head, which I 
could overlook from the top of the little mountain ridge on 
Thom Island, nearly one-half consisted of larger and smaller 
glacier fronts. If to the glaciers here referred to, which I could 
overlook from the island, be added the glaciers which I discov- 
ered between Cape Melville and Cape York, as well as the 
enormous ice floe, the northern wall of which I was just able to 
discern south of Red Head, and which in all probability 
stretches down to the neighborhood of the "Devil's Thumb," 
the whole number of these ice streams covers an area of some 



488 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

two hundred miles. They form a magnificent overflow for 
the ice masses inland, and are, therefore, of the highest impor- 
tance. The glaciers of Melville Bay form, without doubt, the 
vastest glacial system yet discovered on the Greenland coast. 
Most of these glaciers are situated close to each other; indeed, 
as regards some of the larger, as, for instance, those of King- 
Oscar, Peary, Ilink, Nansen and Nordenskkiold, the land divi- 
sions among them are so insignificant that they might be 
realh^ considered two huge glaciers of enormous dimensions. 

As regards the geological character of the coast land itself, 
which here and there Juts forth from the glacial cap, either 
as dominant headland and ness or single "nunatak" farther 
inland, I could discover nothing of particular interest. The 
trap formation, with its dark color, in strong contrast to the 
white snow cupolas which crowned its plateau-shaped sur- 
faces, was apparently the most common, whilst the coast in 
general was of the usual archaic structure. The perpendicu- 
lar walls nearest the ocean ice attained generally a height of 
about two thousand feet, whilst the "Hinterland," where such 
existed, rose to far greater heights; thus the snowy summit of 
Cape Walker has a height of quite three thousand feet, whilst 
a glittering cone, to which I gave the name of "Mount Haff- 
ner," after the Norwegian savant, and which is situated. about 
fifteen miles inland on the north side of the bay, is, without 
doubt, five thousand feet in height. At Cape Melville there 
was a comparatively vast stretch of low land, but its nature 
I w^as unable to make out at this distance. 

Having concluded my observations on the island, I built a 
small cairn on the top, in which I placed a tin box containing 
a brief notice of our visit. Before turning in that night we 
w^ere pleasantly surprised by the sight of a snow sparrow, the 
first of the season, which occasioned us several times during 
supper (a dainty meal of fresh seal's liver and dry ship's bread) 
to congratulate each other on the coming of summer. 

The next morning we found the w^eather had completely 
changed in the course of the night; it was blowing a gale from 
the southeast, filling the air with the finest drifting snow. We 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 489 

had, therefore, to lie weather-boimd that day, which might 
have been dull enough if my companion had not sped the time 
by naively told tales of incidents from his ow^n life, which in 
the most striking manner illustrated the admirable tough- 
ness, strength and courage of this little race of humanity in 
la lutte pour la vie. Among other things I was told that the 
bear hunters of the tribe often in their excursions reach the 
east coast of Melville Bay. I am, however, of the opinion that 
ere long some spring day the inhabitants of the northernmost 
Danish colon}^, Tessiusak, will be surprised by a visit, the first 
known, from the sledging wild men of Cape York. I have 
supplied them full particulars and instructions for such a 
journey. 

The next day, April 20, the wind w^as still strong from the 
south. We were now again nearly out of meat and blubber, 
so that we did not care to venture far away from Cape York, 
which we had otherwise intended had the weather been bet- 
ter. After being weather-bound for a day we steered for the 
northeast, almost unknown, corner of Melville Bay, where I 
hoped to find something of interest, and where also we might 
slay a bear, which we greatly needed. We started at seven 
o'clock a. m., and shaped our course straight for the lofty 
mountain ridge, which, according to the vague indications of 
the chart, should be Cape Murdoch. But as we approached 
w^e found that this towering ridge did not constitute any pro- 
jecting point in the coast line, but, on the contrarj^ rose far 
behind it, and was only a solitary "nunatak" in the vast ice 
field, the lofty perpendicular face of which completely arrested 
our progress. We halted at half past one by a small island, 
the inner side of which almost touched the ice wall, and here 
we had to remain for the rest of the day and the next night. 
Kolotengva at once began the erection of the indispensable 
snow hut, whilst I climbed the island, a few hundred feet in 
height, in order to take observations. By and by he, too, 
came up, anxious to see this forlorn corner of the bay, whither 
the lively sledge parties of his tribe had never yet penetrated. 
But even to the frugal-minded Eskimo at my side the desolate 



490 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

spot could offer no attraction; he oul}^ shook his head and said 
with emphatic conviction: "Pnyungi-toksua nuna manni!" 
(''the land about here is no good"). On the hard, rocky ground 
lay long adamant snowdrifts, carried thither by raging winds 
from the nearest glaciers, whilst here and there, where the 
naked rock terraces were visible through the snow", the "scour- 
ing" marks of former glacial action were distinctly observable. 
Having concluded my observations, we collected all the stones 
we were able to find and raised a small cairn on the summit, 
when we returned to the hut. But a few yards from it, right 
under the wall of an iceberg, w^e came upon some deep holes in 
the snow, a bear having evidently been engaged in digging for 
sea-holes. The same animal, or another, had curiously enough 
visited the summit of the island, to which even we had a diffi- 
culty in climbing. Kolotengva thought the bear had come on 
land in search of dead grass or moss, as polar bears are be- 
lieved b}^ the natives to like a certain amount of vegetable mat- 
ter in their diet. 

The next morning at seven we continued our journey in 
calm, hazy weather. We had barely traveled two hours be- 
fore, on turning a headland, we suddenly espied the bear some 
eight hundred yards in front of us. At racing pace the dogs 
sped away across the hard snow, but the bear did not take 
long to consider his position and then to deal with it. He de- 
cided not to deal with the dilemma at all, and simply bolted, 
i'ut we were down upon him, when Kolotengva quickly cut 
the single trace of the eight dogs, the sledge stopped dead, and 
the liberated dogs flew with redoubled energy at the hairy 
giant, who now turned to defend himself at last. During the 
short space of time occupied by us in coming up with the com- 
batants, I had a good opportunity of watching the splendid 
tactics of the dogs. As soon as they came up with the bear 
they spread out in a semicircle right in front of their foe, and 
attacked him by making dashes at his long, thick coat with 
their sharp, glistening teeth, and they displayed during these 
proceedings such cuteness and skill that it was evident they 
quite understood that it was a question of "breakfast or no 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 491 

breakfast" for them. Whenever the bear angrily raised one 
of his huge paws to crush one of his tormentors, the latter slid 
awav in the most agile manner, whilst his companions gave 
the wretched brute enough to attend to in another direction. 
However, a few shots from our Winchesters soon ended the 
combat, and an hour later we had the large, magnificent bear- 
skin safely packed on the sledge, together with a good quan- 
tity of meat, whilst the dogs were treated to a substantial 
meal, which they indeed wanted badl}^, and we again contin- 
ued our journey. 

Our course now lay straight for an island some ten miles 
west-southwest from our last day's halting place. We reached 
it just before noon, and remained there some hours, during 
which I took the latitude and some determinations, the 
weather having now become very fine again. In the after- 
noon we proceeded, and halted eventually at half past five for 
the night, after a most interesting but very hard day. 

On April 23 we reached again, safe and sound, Cape York 
and our friendly Eskimos. I decided to remain two days and 
let the dogs have a good rest, not because the}^ actually wanted 
it, but because I thought they thoroughh- deserved it after 
their preceding eight days' hard and steady work. The next 
day was beautifully fine, and almost summerlike, so that the 
entire colony, small and large, turned out en masse and squat- 
ted most of the day, basking in the sun's rays, on a small clear- 
ing in front of the huts where bones and offal used to be 
thrown. True, the air w^as a bit chilly, but having built a wall 
of snow to shelter from the cutting north wind, and with the 
sun shining right upon our ruddy faces, and being well 
WTapped up in furs, we had a. fine time of it, chatting merrily 
about the coming spring, for which we all longed so much. 

In the midst of our merry group lay a huge piece of walrus 
meat, the somewhat "gamey" smell of which left no doubt as 
to its respectable age. Beside it lay an ax, which was used 
whenever any man or woman wanted to satisfy his hungry 
cravings, for the meat was frozen hard and had to be chopped. 
At the side of this lump of meat stood also a huge block of ice, 



492 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

clear as crystal, whence the community obtained water, as in 
the center of it a cavity had been cut, at the bottom of which 
a stone was placed, of the size of a man's fist, on which there 
burned with a good flame a piece of moss intersected with 
blubber; and as the ice melted at the sides of the cavity, the 
water collected at the bottom in a small, clear pool, whence it 
was consumed by the many parched mouths by sucking it up 
through hollow reindeer marrow bones, in exactly the same 
manner as we enjoy a sherry cobbler through a straw. The 
whole party was throughout in the cheeriest and most talka- 
tive mood; and although no toasts were drunk or speeches 
made, the chatting and laughing of everybody of all sizes and 
ages proceeded so merrily that the incident furnished another 
strong proof of the thorough contentment of these people with 
their lot in life. 

The next day I had an opportunity of seeing how the na- 
tives train their bear dogs. A bearskin is carried secretly by 
two lads out behind an iceberg close by, one of whom returns, 
whilst the other wraps the skin round his body and then 
emerges, appearing at a distance like a real bear, in the 
creamy fur on which the sun plays. Then an alarm is raised 
by the older hunters, and with fine histrionic skill the younger 
ones rush out as if in great excitement at the sight of the im- 
pudent bear. Some of the dogs have now also espied it, half a 
dozen sledges are harnessed, speeding towards the imagined 
foe, who then wisely lets fall his disguise. 

After two days' rest I and my companion eventually said 
good-bye to our hospitable hosts. But at the last moment we 
were pleasantly surprised at learning that the whole colony 
had decided to accompany us in a body! It seemed as if a 
sudden mania for traveling had seized upon these free and un- 
fettered persons. Why not, then, at once satisfy the desire? 
Their minds were made up on the spur of the moment, and half 
an hour had hardly elapsed before the whole colony had taken 
the field with all their belongings — furs, harpoons, lamps, 
suckling babies, blubber, meat, etc., well stowed away on their 
sledges. They numbered, including ours, nine in all, drawn 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 493 

by fifty-two splendid dogs. But we did not enjoy our merry 
escort long, as it left us by degrees, the members taking up 
their abodes along the coast in their airy skin tents, now being 
exchanged for the dark hovels of the long and dreary winter. 

The first night after leaving Cape York we halted at the 
bottom of an inlet, where we had to remain for thirty-six hours 
through a storm. We found quarters in some old ruins of a 
hut. The next night we were enabled to proceed, and as it 
was the first on which the sun would remain above the horizon 
that season, we decided to travel all the night. The snow track 
was capital, and we advanced rapidly, reaching the western 
extremity of Saunders' Island at five a. m. Here we slept in a 
remarkable grotto, which runs in under the perpendicular 
mountain wall, about a thousand feet in height, the floor being 
below high water mark. We passed the colony "Akpan," situ- 
ated on the southwest side of the island, then deserted. I 
mention it, as here, as well as on the mainland just south, 
there are remains of stone huts, which are now under water at 
high tide. The natives have, therefore, been obliged to vacate 
their old huts and erect others, the former having gradually 
been covered by the sea. Similar proofs of the depression of 
the land along these shores were at one time also observed by 
Dr. Kane somewhat farther south, who suggested that the 
axis of the oscillating movement to which it is generally as- 
sumed that the Greenland continent is subjected, should be 
found just south of the seventy-seventh degree of latitude. 
Judging by my own observations on Saunders' Island just re- 
ferred to, and partly from statements made by natives, I am of 
opinion that this axis must be fixed somewhat farther south. 

On April 29th, at about nine at night, we left Saunders' 
Island in splendid weather. We determined again to travel 
across country to Whale Sound to escape the journey around 
Cape Parry. On the way we succeeded in killing a hare, whose 
white coat up in a dark ravine offered a splendid target for our 
rifles. I shall not describe how welcome this piece of fresh 
meat was to us just then, Sufiflce it to say that for some days 
32 



494 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

we had lived from hand to mouth, and our provision bag was 
slenderer than just desirable. 

We had decided to attempt to reach the south side of 
Whale Sound before again halting, which we did after twenty 
hours of hard traveling. For the last time we lit our blubber 
lamp, cooked the rest of the hare, and enjoyed a good long 
sleep under the tumbledown roof of a deserted native hut. 
We Tyere still some thirty miles from the winter quarters of 
the expedition, but this we covered without more adventures 
on the following day, being back once more safe and sound, on 
April 30. 

Our little journey was at an end, and although its geograph- 
ical results, which, however, constituted the only ones yielded 
by t*ie second Peary expedition, cannot be said to be "start- 
ling," the journey has to me been of great value and advan- 
tage, for it has more than ever before made me familiar with 
the methods of traveling followed for hundreds of years by 
the race dwelling in nearest proximity to the pole, and gained 
from experience during their extended sledge journey along 
the vast ice-choked shores of the land. And I feel confident 
that, had the tribe possessed the scientific enthusiasm which 
fires civilized nations, they would have reached the highly 
coveted goal long ago, and explored the mystic regions in 
which the great nations of the earth, in noble rivalry and self- 
sacrifice, have hitherto attempted to penetrate in vain. But 
sutldenly to impart to these children of nature an ardent en- 
thusiasm for this task of solving some of the greatest geograph- 
ical and other scientific problems of the age would indeed 
be an impossibility. On the other hand, however, it might 
be that the sous of civilization themselves could learn from 
the natives, by sojourning among them, the best mode of solv- 
ing those problems. 

There are those who maintain that Nansen and his gallant 
little band will carry victory home; and no one who is ac- 
quainted with the brilliant equipment and manning of this 
expedition, with other factors to be considered, can deny that 
its prospects of success are highly promising. But should even 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 



495 



this be so, there will still remain many mysteries to be pene- 
trated in the polar regions. No single expedition, be it ever 
so successful, could solve all these. There still are vast 
regions on both sides of the pole yet to be explored; and in 
this glorious labor it is to be hoped that the Scandinavian and 
Anglo-Saxon races may lead the way hand in hand. 

EIVIND ASTRUP. 

NOTE. — Since this article, which has been translated by Carl Siewers, was 
first received Eivind Astrup's death has been reported in the newspapers. The 
last paragraphs were written before the news of Nansen's success. — Editor 
Brooklyn Standard Union. 

In the above article from the pen of our late companion, whose loss we 
deeply lament, we have allowed the names of the natives to appear as written 
by Mr. Astrup. Kolotengva and Kaschu are the same as Koo-loo-ting-wah 
and Kesshu as written elsewhere. — The Author. 




PLAYING THE KEY-U)W-TIE. 



496 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



CHAPTER XLI. 

NANSEN'S LAST FAMOUS VOYAGE. 

While the "Falcon" lay at anchor at Philadelphia prepara- 
tory to taking our little party aboard for the voyage to North 
Greenland, in June, 1893, Dr. Frithjof Nansen's Expedition 
took its departure on the 24th of the same month, from the 
harbor at Christiania, Norway. The "race for the North Pole" 
was thus fairly inaugurated, and of the intrepid Scandina- 
vian's part in the contest it is now our purpose to treat. Al- 
ready is the reader familiar with Dr. Nansen through our ac- 
count of his first crossing of Greenland, in 1888, six years 
previous to which he had made a sealing voyage to Denmark 
Strait, off the east coast of Greenland. In the interval be- 
tween the two trips he occupied the position of Curator of the 
Museum at Bergen. Being now less than thirty-five years of 
age, and a graduate of the University of Christiania, he is in 
the very prime of his physical and mental powers. 

The departure of the "Fram," or "Forward," as the name 
of the staunch little vessel carrying the explorers signifies, was 
witnessed by thousands of their enthusiastic countrymen, who 
assembled on the docks and filled the harbor in every variety 
of craft, all gaily decorated with bunting and silver birch. As 
the "Fram" passed the point on which his home is located. Dr. 
Nansen stood on deck and waved a farewell salute to his ac- 
complished wife, who stood in front of the house, clad in a 
dress of pure white, while from the various batteries salutes 
of three guns were fired as the vessel passed them. 

Owing to the special construction of the "Fram," with refer- 
ence to navigation in ice, much is expected of her. A three- 
masted sailing schooner, she is also provided with a 160 horse- 




William E. Meehan, Esq., Botanist to Peary Relief Expedition, 1892. 

1. Hierochloe alpina. 2. Cassiope tetragona. 

3. Rhododendron lapponicura. 4. Saxifraga oppositifolia. 

5. Papaver nudicaule (Poppies). 6. Aspidium fragrans (Ferns) . 



Mr. C. E. Borchgrevink (Norwegian), Amidst Antarctic Scenes, 1894-5. 




rt 



IJ 





Dr. Frederick A. Cook, M. D. (American), Physician and Surgeon 

Peary Expedition 1891-2, Leader of the "Miranda Party" and 

Organizer of Proposed Antarctic Expedition. 

(See Chapter XLII.J 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 



497 




NAMES AND AGES (1893) OF NANSEN'S 
ASSOCIATES. 



LIEUT. HAKSBN, 25. 
ADOLF JUELL, 33. 
A. AMUNDSEN, 40. 
H. JOHANSEN, 26. 



DR. BLESSING, 27. 
CAPT. SVERDRUP, 38. 
P. L. HENRIKSEN, 34. 



T. C. JACOBSBN, 3S. 
I. O. I. MOGSTAD, 37. 
B. NORDAHL, 31. 
LARS PBTTERSEN, 33. 



498 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

power steam engine, has a displacement of 800 tons, with her 
sides so formed as to force all ice meeting them to pass under- 
neath her, thus preventing "nipping," "pinching," or "screw- 
ing." 

Besides an allowance of about |52,000 voted by the Nor- 
wegian Parliament, many private subscriptions, including one 
of 15,000 by King Oscar, gave Nansen the means of building 
and equipping his vessel, which was launched October 25, 1892, 
at Laurwik, near Ohristiania. A Norwegian paper thus de- 
scribes her fitting out: 

"Bread is the chief food of Nansen and his associates. It is 
a kind of biscuit, large and round, white and very compact. 
Each man is allowed four of these each day. Silk is to be 
used for tents, as it shuts out the cold better than anything 
else. 

"The cabin is heated by means of an English petroleum 
stove, which consumes three litres of petroleum per diem. A 
supply sufficient for eight or nine j^ears was taken along. The 
library consists of one thousand volumes, oue-half of which 
consists of scientific works, and the other half of novels, etc. 

"x\ll told the ship's complement of men numbers but twelve, 
all of whom occupy the cabin, which measures only thirteen 
feet square. There they dwell, eat and work. The suits they 
wear cannot be penetrated with water." 

Nansen's companions are: Captain Otto Sverdrup, his asso- 
ciate in 1888, ship's master; Sigurd Scott Hansen, Lieutenant 
in the Navy, and director of the astronomical, meterological 
and magnetic observations; Dr. H. G. Blessnng, surgeon and 
botanist; Theodore C. Jacobsen, mate; Peder L. Henriksen, 
harpooner; Anton Amundsen, chief engineer; Lars Pettersen, 
second engineer; F. Hjalmar Johansen, offi_cer in the Nor- 
wegian Army, fireman; Bernhard Nordahl, electrician; Ivan 
Mogstad, carpenter; Adolf Juell, steward. 

The last authentic information concerning the expedition 
was a dispatch from Vardoe, Norway, August 2Sd, two months 
after leaving Christiania. This stated that the "Fram," after 
excellent behavior in the ice, had reached the Kara Sea early 



OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 499 

in the month. From this point, according to Dr. Nansen's plan, 
she was to proceed to the New Siberian Islands, and thence 
northward, carried by the drifting ice, skirting the wesiern 
shores of any newly-discovered lands, near to if not immedi- 
ately over the north geographical pole. This being attained, 
it is supposed that the 'Tram" would then drift southward, 
off the eastern coast of Greenland, and so eventually work her 
way out of the ice and again enter the North Atlantic. Splen- 
didly provisioned and equipped for a five years' absence, it is 
perhaps too early to conjecture with reference to the where- 
abouts of the expedition. Nevertheless, it behooves every 
friend to noble achievement — every lover of humanity to 
aid, should it become necessary, the return of these courageous 
investigators to friend and home, where their success may 
add lustre to the crowning glory of our nineteenth century 
civilization. Whether they are now returning by the out- 
ward route of the ''Fram,-' whether by the New Siberian 
Islands and the Lena River, whether ice-locked in the midst 
of newly-discovered lands, whether they may yet strand off the 
north coast of Greenland, or even again drift in triumph into 
open water and safety, the conscientious application of the 
Golden Rule will silence all reproach and make the world not 
only better but wiser. 

As we go to press, the dispatching of a vessel to the New 
Siberian Islands, in anticipation of the "Fram's" return to 
that localit3^, is being discussed in European circles. This, it 
appears to us, would be a wise measure, for sufQcient time has 
now elapsed for the accomplishment of Dr. Nansen's prime ob- 
ject — the exploration of the region in the immediate vicinity 
of the Pole. That done, he would doubtless return by the 
safest and speediest route. Should this prove to be by way of 
the New Siberian Islands, assistance soon would doubtless be 
timely; if by way of Greenland, exploring parties sent thither 
a year or two hence would be likely to obtain some evidence of 
his success or failure, or perhaps be able to insure his return. 

Years hence the reader will recall the first reports concern- 
ing the supposed return of Dr. Nanseu and how for weeks and 



500 



THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



months the entire civilized world was kept in suspense specu- 
lating upon the probable outcome of the voyage. On the very 
day on which the publisher receives the manuscript for this 
book we have received the following dispatch: 

"St. Petersburg, April 7. — At last the true origin of the story 
about Dr. Nansen's discovery of the north pole has been told. 
The story came from Tomsk, through the merchant Kusch- 
uareff, who is the uncle of Kandakoff, the originator of the 
news. His statement is that his nephew did nothing more than 
transmit the report. It appears that in the New Siberian 
Islands there have been three parties in search of mammoth 
bones. One of these parties returned some time ago and said 
they had seen a ship in the neighborhood of the islands with 
Europeans on board. They did not attempt any communica- 
tion with the ship, nor did they even watch it. Kandakoff, to 
whom the mammoth huuters brought the news, thought it 
might relate to Nauseu, and wrote thus to Irkootsk, whence it 
was sent out all over the world. In the Siberian Islands there 
still remain two parties of hunters who will return in Novem- 
ber, and who, perhaps, may bring some details." 

In concludiug our account of Dr. Nansen's Expedition it 
will be of iuterost to add that the so-called "Jeannette" relics 
which were reported to have been found off the southwest coast 
of Greenland by some of the sailors of the Greely relief ship, 
the "Yantic," and upon which Nansen is said to have based his 
belief in the existence of the great Arctic Ocean current, were 
spurious, as shown by Dr. Bessels, formerly of the Hall Expedi- 
tion, and by Dr. Dall, of the Smithsonian Institution. Nansen 
knew of their doubtful origin before undertaking his voyage. 




•<\Op^e-G0N0 (JaaNNIB. 



RA7AK eOMEBSSX 



|tD&-fUP PA Ml^ 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 501 



CHAPTER XLIV. 

THE ENGLISH IN FRANZ-JOSEF LAND. 

While Dr. Nansen's plans are thus before the world, the 
English, represented by the Jackson-Harmsworth Expedition, 
are also endeavoring to solve the great mysteries of the North. 
It is just three hundred years since Barents wintered off the 
northeast coast of Nova Zembla and now, from Franz-Josef 
Land, less than four degrees of latitude farther north, do brave 
Englishmen struggle to honor their flag and race. 

Having sailed from London, in July, 1894, on board the 
"Windward," the expedition, led b}^ the intrepid young Jack- 
son, made the coast of Franz-Josef Land at Cape Flora, on 
the 7th of September following. Here the "Windward" be- 
came ice-bound and spent the winter of 1894-5. On the 10th 
of March the party started north from headquarters, and by 
May had established a line of depots one hundred miles long, 
to latitude 81° 20'. In this work it is understood that large 
and amiable dogs from Western Siberia, and hardy Russian 
ponies were used. Their sledges, with broad runners like the 
Norwegian ski, are exceedingly light, and average in weight 
only sixteen pounds. 

The house at headquarters was built of large pine logs and 
heated by means of a Russian stove. 

On July 3d, 1895, the "Windward" started on the return 
trip, leaving all at the camp in good health and greatly en- 
couraged at the outlook for the future. The vessel reached 
Vardoe, Norway, September 10th, having found the ice-pack 
of a very formidable character. When she again returns to 
Franz-Josef Land for the explorers in the course of the ensuing 
summer (1896) it is hoped and believed that she will learn 
of the successful exploration of that region and the determina- 



502 



THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



tion whether Franz-Josef Land be an archipelago or the south- 
ern extension of a great polar continent. For this will science 
ever be indebted to the generous young Mr. Harmsworth. 





F. G. JACKSON. 



A. C. HARMSWORTH. 





THE "WINDWARD." 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 508 



CHAPTER XLV. 

TO THE NORTH POLE BY BALLOON. 

At a session of The Sixth International Geographical Con- 
gress, held in London, from July 20 to August 3, 1895, Mr. S. A. 
Andree's Balloon Expedition came in for its share of atten- 
tion. Its promoter is an engineer in the patent office at Stock- 
holm, and he has been very successful in previous balloon 
voyages. The expenses of the expedition will be about |36,000, 
of which King Oscar II., of Sweden, heads the subscription list 
with a contribution of |S,000. 

Mr. Audree expects to start from one of the small islands 
lying off the northwest coast of the mainland of Spitzbergen 
and hopes to reach the pole in fortj^-three hours, returning 
either to the inhabited regions of North America or Siberia. 
The construction of his great air-ship is thus described: 

"It will be a double balloon, or rather a balloon in a balloon. 
The first or inner balloon will be made of a specially made silk 
cloth of three folds and covered with a water-proof varnish. 
Over this, covering two-thirds of the balloon, comes a cover of 
cloth highly saturated with oil. The object of the double bal- 
loon is that the air between the two balloons will guard 
against sudden changes of temperature, and also prevent snow 
and water from gathering on the varnished silk. From the 
oiled surface it will at once slide off, particularly when the 
balloon sways from side to side. Instead of the usual ventilator 
on the top of the balloon these will be placed one on each side, 
as experience has shown that from this ventilator the greatest 
loss of gas is made. To support the net a heavy iron ring is 
placed under a wooden roof resembling what is known in polar 
language as a ^Nunatak.' Below the balloon is placed an auto- 



504 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

matic ventilator opening at a pressure of 10 mm. water, and 
permits the escape of superfluous gas. 

"A novelty is the broad girdle surrounding the balloon in 
its lower part. This is for the purpo-se of guarding against 
wind pressure. When the lower part of the balloon com- 
mences to be empty of gas, the wind makes a hollow in the 
balloon and the girdle will prevent this. 

SIZE OF THE BALLOON. 

"The balloon has a diameter of 20.5 meters [one meter is 
39.37 inches] and a volume of 4,500 cubic meters. The gondola 
is made of wicker, round in form, covered with a roof with two 
sleeping places, as there will always be a man on watch. The 
mattresses will serve as life-preservers in case of necessity, and 
the gondola has a slanting form to facilitate sliding along the 
ice if so near an approach to the earth is found necessary. The 
gondola is also provided with a trap-door to empty the water 
if the balloon should take a 'dip.' 

"M. Audree has devised an ingenious contrivance for direct- 
ing the balloon. The efficiency of this device has been tested 
by a trip which he took July 14, 1895. It is composed of a 
rudder sail secured to the apex of the balloon and to the car 
b}^ a rope, so that it can move freely, and a guide rope which 
can be adjusted to different positions for 180 degrees of the 
circumference of the ring which is secured to the car. 

"The guiding is assisted by means of this guide rope, which 
is allowed to drag on the ground or in the water. The eyelets 
are intended to receive the hook of this guide rope. When the 
hook is attached to the central e^^elet the balloon will move 
in the line of the wind, but by adjusting the guide rope to the 
other eyelets motion in other directions is obtained. 

"The balloon carries 2,100 kg. of ballast, provisions for four 
aud one-half mouths, ammunition, a boat, heavy clothing, and 
every necessity that experience has shown is required. 

PLANNING A QUICK TRIP. 

"With a fair wind only six days would be required from 



OR. LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE ^VORLD. 



505 




ANDREE'S BALLOON, SHOWING MECHANISM OF THE APPARATUS. 

[BB, balloon. AAAA, outside balloon. CCCC, girdle. S'S'SS, middle sail. 
S'TU, side sail. D, ropes attached to the sails. F, cross-mast of bamboo. 
V, automatic ventilator. E, rope ladder. K, basket. G, gondola. H, railing. 
L, drag lines.] 



506 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Spitzbergen to Bering's Soimd, across the pole, but time makes 
little difference, as the balloon will float with safety for 900 
days and nights. 

"King Oscar of Sweden is taking a most active interest in 
the preparations for the journey. The ascent will take place 
next July from one of the northwestern islands of the archi- 
pelago of Spitzbergen. A building will be constructed in 
Sweden and will be erected on this island to shelter the balloon 
during its inflation, as it may be a number of days before the 
wind will blow in the direction of the pole. M. Andree will 
be accompanied by Nils Ekholm, the astronomer, who is now 
attached to the Central Meteorological Bureau of Stockholm, 
and also by one of the astronomers royal of the Swedish Acad 
emy of Science. 

"In the season which M. Andree has chosen the weather 
is usually fine in the Arctic regions, and there appears to be 
no good reason why the expedition should not be a success and 
of great scientific value. Every scientific society in Europe, 
with the exception of the English, has approved of the plan 
and believes it will be a success. The English say the north 
pole will only be reached by a water and land expedition, and 
intimate that if it will ever be done it will be found that the 
English flag will float at the north pole. 

"The most favored of Arctic explorers rarely make more 
than four or five miles a day, so that the speed which can be 
obtained with a balloon will tend to do away with the great 
trouble which has heretofore blocked all the explorers— the 
shortness of the season." 

The. officers of the Hudson's Bay Company and of the Si- 
berian Government have been instructed to watch for the ap- 
pearance of the balloon at all points in British America and 
Siberia. 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 507 



CHAPTER XLVI. 

LOVERS OF THE ARTS AND SCIENCES: FREE AND AC- 
CEPTED MASONRY IN ARCTIC EXPLORATION. 

As all members of the great and noble Order of Free and 
Accepted Masons are "taught to be general lovers of the arts 
and sciences/' it is not at all surprising that among the num- 
ber should be found some of the most illustrious explorers, 
such, for example, as Dr. Kane, Dr. Hayes, Captain Wilson, 
General Greely, Chief Engineer George W. Melville, Louis P. 
Noros, Colonel W. H. Gilder, and, most recently "raised" 
(March 3d), Lieutenant Peary. Others there doubtless are, 
whose fraternal relations are unknown to the writer. Of those 
enumerated Kane, Hayes, Greely and Peary have each carried, 
with pardonable pride, emblems of our beloved order into the 
"farthest north." 

Among the organizations conspicuous for their active in- 
terest in Polar research, Kane Lodge No. 454, F. and A. M,, 
of New York City, deserves great praise. Her most distin- 
guished sons of exploration will reflect credit upon her for- 
ever. And how very appropriate was it that she should have 
given recently (April, 1896) a grand reception to Arctic ex- 
plorers and travelers, with nearly fifteen hundred persons pres- 
ent, among the noted Masonic speakers being Brothers Hon. 
Chauncey M. Depew, General Greely, Lieutenant Peary and 
Bishop Henry C. Potter. Addresses were also delivered by 
Mayor Strong and Judge Daly, of New York. 

On this occasion Lieutenant Peary returned to the lodge 
its historic flag with which he had been entrusted and Whicb 
he had carried with him to North Greenland. The flag is of 
red bunting, having upon it the Masonic emblems of the square 



508 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

and compass worked in white. It was unfurled at or in the 
viciuit}^ of Independence Bay, in latitude HV 47', in the sum- 
mer of 1895. 

In the preceding year (1894), mindful of the honor of the 
fraternity and with great pleasure to himself, the author had 
also carried with him on the sledge journe}^ on the great ice- 
cap a silk-trimmed apron of genuine lamb-skin, the inscrip- 
tion on which, as may be gathered from the accompanying 
illustration, served to encourage and sustain during many try- 
ing occasions. Captain Henry B. Bartlett, of a St. John's, 
(Newfoundland) lodge, shared with him the honor of wearing 
it upon the first arrival of the "Falcon" at the head of Bowdoin 
Bay, in 1893. 

The apron w^as duly returned to Euclid Lodge as requested. 

As is well known, Dr. Kane carried with him a Masonic 
flag, and since writing the above we have, through the fraternal 
courtesy of Worshipfuls J. Morris Ward and George W. Brown, 
Jr., past and present masters respectively of Kane Lodge, re- 
ceived interesting details concerning the Arctic Masonic flags 
of Brothers Hayes and Greely as follows: 

"The ^Hayes Flag' was intrusted by Kane Lodge, at the 
Chamber of Commerce (New York), to Brother 1. 1. Hayes, June 
29, 1860, and carried by him to the east coast of Grinnell Land 
and planted there side by side with the Stars and Stripes, May 
18, 1861, in latitude 81° 40', and returned to the lodge by him 
January 2, 1866." The long lapse of time before the return 
of the flag to the lodge is believed to have been owing to the 
absence of Dr. Hayes as a surgeon in the Union Army during 
the Civil War. 

"The 'Greely Flag' was cut and made by his own hands at 
Fort Conger, 82° north latitude. Lieutenant Lockwood and 
Sergeant Brainard carried it in the spring of 1882 to the 
shores of the Polar Sea, on the northwest coast of Greenland, 
where it was displayed at Lockwood Island, latitude 83° 24' 
north, longitude 40° 46' west, on May 13-15, 1882." 

Truly do such emblems serve to inspire to action, and how 
very appropriate, that the flag of our country — the flag of 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 509 

Washington, the first chief executive of a free and progressive 
people, should, especially in the conquests of art and science, 
be accompanied by the emblems of our order — the emblems of 
that same Washington, the first grand master of all Free and 
Accepted Masons in America! 

Truly, too, do the lives of worthy men inspire to lofty effort, 
and the example of America's first great philosopher, Ben- 
jamin Franklin, in finding time to devote to Masonry, and the 
promotion of Arctic research, is also cause for congratulation 
among all lovers of human progress. 

What Washington and Franklin were to Masonry and Pa- 
triotism toward the close of the eighteenth century, Jackson 
was to them a half century later, exalting and defending each 
with an iron will at a critical period, when the existence of both 
in America was threatened by foes, domestic as well as foreign. 

What, therefore, could have afforded the author greater 
pleasure than to have celebrated Jackson Day in North Green- 
land in 1894, and to have given willing testimony concerning 
the same at a Jackson Day banquet at Aurora, Illinois, in 1896. 
To quote from The Chicago Tribune, Aurora Daily Express 
and other papers of January 9th, of the same year: 

"One of the most interesting addresses of the evening was 
made by Evelyn B. Baldwin, the Arctic explorer, who went 
in search of the North Pole with Lieutenant Peary. Mr. Bald- 
win wore a silken flag badge which had been given him at a 
Jackson Day celebration of the Ladies' Hermitage Association, 
of Nashville, Tennessee. He had worn this badge on his trip 
to Greenland a few months later. It was worn by Baby Peary 
on the recurrence of Jackson Day in North Greenland, in com- 
memoration of the noble ladies of the Hermitage Association, 
of Nashville, who originated 'Jackson Da^^,' and since Jack- 
son's death have cared for the old home, 'The Hermitage.' At 
each annual banquet in Nashville by the Association is lighted 
one of a quantity of candles taken from the tent occupied b}^ 
Lord Cornwallis at the surrender of Yorktown, in 1781. 

"These candles on the death of Washington came into the 
possession of one of his staff officers, who presented them to 
38 



510 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

Jackson with the request that they be lighted annually there- 
after by General Jackson to commemorate the famous victory 
at New Orleans. Since the death of Jackson, in 1845, the Her- 
mitage Association has preserved this custom. In commemo- 
ration of the custom the speaker also lighted candles on Jack- 
son Day in North Greenland, in 1894. 

"Mr. Baldwin referred to another interesting historic asso- 
cration. One of the British soldiers who was wounded at 
New Orleans by Jackson's men was a certain John Franklin, 
who four years later began a career as an Arctic explorer, 
Avhich terminated with his last voyage and his sad fate in 1845, 
the very year of Jackson's death. The little silk badge, from 
Jackson's own home, was carried farther north than Sir John 
Franklin or any of his followers ever went. 

"The speaker closed hj presenting to the Hickory Club on 
behalf of the Ladies' Hermitage Association, a hickory gavel 
which had been cut from a tree growing by Jackson's tomb. 

"The gift was a complete surprise, and when it was received 
by the president the entire company arose to their feet and 
gave three cheers for Mr. Baldwin, three more for the Ladies' 
Hermitage Association and at once sent a telegram to the 
ladies expressing their patriotic gratitude." 

One of the most memorable meetings of Kane Lodge No. 
454 occurred June 4, 1889. Opened in due and ancient form, 
the prayer was followed by the chanting of the Lord's Prayer, 
after which Kane Lodge No. 55, of Newark, New Jersey, was 
received and introduced as a body. 

In the presentation of the visiting brethren the introducing 
brother^ among other things, said: "It has been the peculiar 
fortune of our two lodges to pay especial regard to the achieve- 
ments of those noble and daring men who have labored to add 
somewhat to our knowledge of the ends of the earth. This, 
our peculiar dut}^, has always been dear to the heart of every 
brother of Kane, and as our respective lodges have thus been 
closely united in the past, so we trust and believe they will ever 
continue in the future." 

In the response, delivered by one of the visitiug brethren, 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 



511 




iO f. 




FAREWELL." 









^ 



'THE FAIR AUGUSTA." 



512 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

the speaker rejoiced in the fact that the two lodges bore the 
same name, one that is "a constant reminder to noble action," 
and that the influence of Masonry spreads wherever civilization 
extends — even from the Arctic to the Southern Sea. 

On this occasion the following Arctic explorers were intro- 
duced and accorded the hospitalities of the lodge: 

Commodore Winfleld Scott Schlej^, United States Navy; 
Captain John Wall Wilson and Mr. Amos Bonsall, the only two 
survivors of the Kane Expedition; Engineer-in-Chief George 
W.Melville, United States Navy; Colonel W. H. Gilder, of the 
Schwatka Expedition; Sergeants Biederbick and Long, of the 
"Lady Franklin Bay Expedition," and Messrs. Nindemann, 
Noros and Smith. 

Just a year previous to this meeting, an artist residing in 
New York had presented to the lodge, through one of its breth- 
ren, a picture of Lockwood and Brainard's "Camp on the North- 
west Coast of Greenland, where the Arctic Masonic flag, pre- 
sented to the Lodge by Brother Greely, was displayed to the 
chilling blasts of the ^Farthest North.' " 

This artist was Mr. Albert Operti, who had meantime be- 
come an honored member of Kane Lodge. He was then intro- 
duced, and at the conclusion of an interesting address relative 
to the value of art work commemorative of Polar explorations, 
presented to the lodge his celebrated historical painting, the 
subject and description of which is as follows: 

"FAREWELL." 

OIL PAINTING. 

Painted by Brother Albert Operti, under the personal super- 
vision of Brother Captain J. Wall Wilson, late volunteer U. S.. 
N. (survivor of the Second Grinnell Expedition in search of Sip 
John Franklin, 1853 to 1855.) : 

The scene represented is at Rensselaer Harbor, Greenland, 
Sunday, May 20, 1855, when Dr. Kane and companions aban- 
doned the brig "Advance," just after they had removed from 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 5lS 

the ship and placed in the bows of the whale-boat "Hope," the 
figure-head "The Fair Augusta," now in possession of Kane 
Lodge. 

It is a dreary scene which the artist has depicted, and there 
are suggestions of the dangers as well as the grim monotony 
of a two years' sojourn in the solitude of the far North. The 
group of figures seen in the foreground, surrounded by the Es- 
kimo dogs, includes Dr. Kane, Dr. Hayes, Messrs. Wilson, Bon- 
sall, Sonntag, Ohlsen, and others of the ship's company. The 
portraits are from photographs. Dr. Kane is looking off 
towards the brig, seen in the middle distance. The ship's spars 
and bulwarks are in part cut away, having been used for fire- 
wood, enough only being left to keep her seaworthy in case the 
ice should break up. 

Beyond is "Fern Rock," with the little observatory in which 
the astronomical observations were carried on, and the cairn, 
marking the graves of the two sailors, Shubert and Baker. 

To the right is a grounded conical iceberg, from which the 
party procured fresh water during their two years' imprison- 
ment in Rensselaer Harbor, and in the distance is Cape Leiper. 
To the left, across the straits, lie Cape Hawkes and Cape Hayes, 
and floe-bergs and rubble-ice mark the line of the horizon. 
Floe-bergs are huge masses of ice. Rubble-ice is the broken, 
irregular piles of ice produced by the contact of one field with 
another, when in motion, and the destruction and upheaval 
of the edges of the conflicting floes. 

On the ice-floe is the whale boat "Hope," mounted upon its 
sledge; a number of the crew, assisted by Eskimos, being busy 
stowing awa}^ the last few bags of provisions. The small sledge 
used by Dr. Kane stands near by. Everywhere is ice in various 
forms, in delicate and beautiful blues. An Arctic sky, flecked 
with slender frost feather-clouds, completes the picture. The 
whole scene is touched by warm sunlight, and all details are 
carefully worked out, the topography having been taken from 
government charts, surveys and photographs. The work oc- 
cupied over a j^ear of labor. 



514 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

"THE FAIR AUGUSTA." 

Figure-head of the brig 'Advance," the hist piece of timber 
removed from the ship when she was abandoned in the ice by 
Dr. Kane and companions in Kenssehier Harbor, Greenland, 
latitude 78° 37' north, longitude 70° 41' G" west. May 20, 1855. 

Presented to Kane Lodge No. 454, F. & A. M., by the late 
Judge J, K. Kane, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. 



The abandonment of the brig "Advance," as described by 
Dr. Kane, in "Arctic Explorations," Vol. II., 185G: 

"We then went upon deck; the flags were hoisted and 
hauled down again, and our party walked once or twice around 
the brig, looking at her timbers and exchanging comments 
upon the scars, which reminded them of every stage of her dis- 
mantling. Our figure-head, ^The Fair Augusta,' the little blue 
girl with pink cheeks, who had lost her breast by an iceberg, 
and her nose by a nip off ^Bedevilled Keach,' was taken from 
our bows and placed aboard the 'Hope.' 'She is at any rate 
wood,' said the men, when I liesitated about giving them the 
additional burden, 'and if we cannot carry her far we can burn 
her.' " 

In accepting the painting. Worshipful 11. M. Morgan, Mas- 
ter of Kane Lodge, said, in part: 

"An ancient author has said : 'The fine arts lose effect when 
they speak to the mind only, but they triumph when they 
touch the heart.' 

"As you have suggested, it is the province of the artist, 
as well as of the historian, to deal with the history of the 
world, to treat with those subjects of human interest and 
thought, w^hich most deeply engage the attention and stir the 
minds of men, to record the events that have made their im- 
press on the generations in which they have transpired. 

"You have used your skill and genius, wrought into this 
beautiful painting, to portray an event in the experience of 
the men who made the memorable struggle of which thir:! 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 515 

painting marks the beginning of the end; an event that ap- 
peals to our sympathy and commands our admiration for the 
moral strength and physical manhood of which they furnish 
such striking examples; an event which at the time it oc- 
curred moved the heart of the world. 

"We honor and revere the character of that true man 
and Mason, whose virtues deserve the most worthy tribute 
words can weave, and whose ifame we, as a Lodge, aid in 
perpetuating." 

Following the acceptance of the gift, numerous short ad- 
dresses were made. Brief extracts from some of these are as 
follows: 

Brother Captain J. W. Wilson, referring to the retreat from 
Rensselaer Harbor, said: 

"While in Melville Ba}^, and in dire distress for want of 
proper food, we saw in the mist what appeared to be tw^o 
vessels passing to the north, but thought this but the peculiar 
effect of the mirage so common in northern latitudes. After- 
wards, by comparing notes, we found to our astonishment that 
what we saw must have been in reality the 'Kescue' and 
'Arctic' At this time, had our boats been crushed by the ice, 
we should have all perished beyond a doubt. Hartstene, on 
interviewing the Eskimos at Cape Alexander, was made to un- 
derstand by signs upon the snow, that we had gone south in 
boats. He turned his ships at once, and fell in with us at 
Uperuavik. 

"I now take much pleasure in introducing to you my fellow 
voyager, Mr. Amos Bonsall, a man of many generous impulses, 
overflowing with that genial humor so essential to the pleasure 
of an Arctic voyager." 

Mr. Bonsall said: "I was thinking to-day in looking upon 
this little piece of wood so honored by you gentlemen as a 
small piece of the little brig that left her bones to bleach upon 
the Arctic shore, that it might be pleasant to you to remember 
and to know perhaps how she met with this maiming, which 
makes her face not so pleasant and so delightful as I have 



516 THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 

looked upon it; and I will relate just how that nose hap- 
pened to come off. 

"We were sailing up a line of the coast which was pecu- 
liarly treacherous, because it was only giving us throughout 
the whole range of our sailing about two feet under our keel, 
about eleven feet of water over what we called 'Bedevilled 
Reach.' It did bedevil us most unconscionably, and in sailing 
along that coast with a gale of wind at our back, we had been 
driven up into an ice-pack and jammed there until I certainly 
thought our bones would rest there — not only our ship's, but 
ours — for there seemed to be no possible hope of our escape; 
but by one of those magical occurrences in those icy regions, 
the gale subsided and the ice slackened down and let us 
through. We sailed up to what we called Godsend Island, 
where we found a pool of water into which we worked our- 
selves, not much larger than the one you see the other side 
of the brig as she lies there. There we lay several days in a 
calm. After awhile came a northerly wind and swept the 
ice away, and we were enabled, as we had hoped, to work our 
way up the coast. The vessel was going under sail, and we 
made our way forward, with the wind directly in our faces, by 
a series of tacks, of course, very slowly. I was conning the 
vessel in the afternoon, with a boat out ahead, sounding, so 
we would not go ashore. While watching the boat and con- 
ning the vessel, w^e had come in contact, or very closely in 
contact, on the inshore tack, with a piece of heavy floe, and 
had been compelled to allow the vessel to fall off. We lost 
our tack by this manoeuvre, and we were, therefore, prevented 
from making any headway whatever. This confounded piece 
of ice-floe would get in the way. I had the deck and had twice 
made tacks, and when we came again into the miserable ice, 
right at the time we wished to go about, I said, ^Let her go into 
it. If she knocks a stick out of her the vessel can stand the 
loss,' and 'The Fair Augusta' lost her nose in consequence. 

"I will tell you another anecdote about this little block 
here. We had an Irishman aboard named Tom Hickey, the 



OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 517 

second steward, pretty sturdy, but fiery. Some of our people 
found Tom in very close contact with 'The Fair Augusta' one 
morning. Tom was embracing her very affectionately, looking 
up into her face. Some of the boys tAvitted him afterwardii 
about hugging the figurehead. 'Be jabers,' said he, 'it has 
been six months since I saw the semblance of a woman. She 
looks like a woman, anyhow, and I don't care if I do put my 
arms around her.' " 

Judge Daly followed, and said: 

"Why should we not take an interest in the globe upon 
which we live — where God has placed us, and endowed us with 
faculties that enable us to discover everything about it. Should 
we not carry on the great work that began when the first 
savage left the rude hut he inhabited to learn something of 
the unknown regions around him? That grand march of civil- 
ization, which has gone on until our day, when we are practi- 
cally applying the discovery of Franklin as the means of a 
more extensive inter-communication among the family of man- 
kind, and which will go on, extending our knowledge of the 
earth, multiplying our enjoyments, increasing our happiness, 
and making us what God intended we should be — higher, 
greater and nobler." 

Commodore W. S. Schley added: 

"There are two sides to this Arctic problem. There is a 
material side and there is a scientific side. * * * It has 
been asked — I refer to the material side of this problem — 
'What is the use of all this loss of life? What is the use of all 
these expeditions?' It may be said from the material side 
that millions of square miles of discovered territory have been 
added to our geography; that the gospel of Christ has been 
carried into this North land; that the domain of civilization 
has been extended; that the empire of commerce has been 
made to penetrate into this polar ocean, which has resulted 
in adding millions of money to our material possession and 
circulation. That being the case, it does seem to me that 
there is some compensation, certainly, for the small loss of 
life which has attended these expeditions. 



518 



THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 




OR, LIFE IN THE GREAT WHITE WORLD. 519 

"When I say there is a scientific side to this problem, I 
merely touch upon a mine of undeveloped intellectual wealth. 
Contributions to natural histor}^, to botany, to mineralogy, 
to metallurgy, to magnetism, to paleontology, the effect of 
extreme cold upon animal and vegetable life, and upon the 
audible range of sounds, are all questions which affect the 
scientific world. These things are important enough to attract 
the attention of governments, and I hope will not be over- 
looked. 

"Now, in regard to the loss of life in polar explorations, I 
have heard it said very often that the loss of life was terrible 
in these explorations. It may be interesting to know that 
in all the expeditions that have ever gone into that region, the 
loss of life in all of them is a little more than 2^ per cent of 
the whole number of people engaged. That is not so great 
a loss as occurs in our profession in the pursuit of ordinary 
naval duty in other more favored parts of the world. It bears 
but an inappreciable proportion to the losses by wreckage 
alone occurring in one year around the British Isles." 

Brother Engineer-in-Ohief Melville spoke as follows: 

"I came about two hundred forty miles, not to deliver a 
lecture, not to talk about the hardships of the Arctic or the 
glories of the Arctic, or the good times we have there, because 
we do have good times, as you gentlemen have here, but to 
be present at the presentation of this elegant work of art; 
and mj only regret as I stand before you and the people of 
the United States to-day, is that a country such as ours is, 
with a treasury overflowing with wealth, that it cannot put 
forth its hand, not only to encourage the Arctic explorer, but 
also the artist who tries to depict to you such a scene as we 
have here to-night snatched from the ever glorious North." 

Brother Colonel Gilder concluded the addresses, adding 
briefly : 

"As long as there is work to be done there (in the North), 
I think there will always be people to do it, provided they 
can have the backing of the people at home. There is a good 



520 



THE SEARCH FOR THE NORTH POLE; 



deal of work to be done there yet in the way of exploration. 
Expeditions to the North Magnetic Pole are the most impor- 
tant. It is a very hard place to reach. The best kind of work 
is to be done there." 

In the preparation of the foregoing pages and in view of 
their consecration to polar research we have selected the fol- 
lowing paragraph as a working principle and commend it to 
others : 

"KEEPING EVERLASTINGLY AT IT. 

"Genius is often only the power of making continuous 
efforts. The line between failure and success is so fine that we 
scarcely know when we pass it — so fine that we are often on the 
line and do not know it. How many a man has thrown up his 
hands at a time when a little more effort, a little more patience, 
would have achieved success. As the tide goes clear out, so it 
comes clear in. In business sometimes prospects may seem 
darkest when really they are on the turn. A little more per- 
sistence, a little more effort, and what seemed hopeless failure 
may turn to glorious success. There is no failure except in 
no longer trying. There is no defeat except from within, no 
really insurmountable baivrier save our own inherent weakness 
of purpose." — [Electrical Review.] 




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